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Thuster House, Caithness. 22 May 1910.
[Opposite page]
Note In 1907 or thereabout I lunched at
Thuster with the Hornes who have made it
into a charming dwelling as their residence
having an old Stirkoke --
Here we took up our residence Yesterday after:
:noon having left Edinburgh early on Thursday
morning and, to be duly respectful of King
Edward's memory, passed Friday at the Suther:
:land Arms in Golspie. This is a gaunt,
ugly farm house, whose cold bare walls are
relieved by no creepers. Interiorly, it is a sparsely
furnished and as our luggage, sent up by
boat, has not yet arrived, it is, at present,
much less comfortable than it may ultimately be.
We have neither groceries, silver nor linen!
The house stands in a great arable plain,
chequered with dykes and hedge-rows. By
our own doors and around the better
houses are occasional clumps of trees,
but woodlands there are none, nor is a
hill of more than trifling elevation anywhere
visible. The mists that have rolled in from
the sea obscure the sun and beneath them
the landscape lies grey and featureless.
23 May 1910.
Labour is scarce here, but I have secured
a boy of sixteen from the lodge at Stirkoke
to accompany me daily as assistant.
Soon after breakfast J. & I bicycled
into wick to transact some necessary
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business and were relieved to meet the lost
luggage on its way out. Meeting the boy
at 11:30 at Haster Smithy I set off on my work.
[Margin] Wick par. [parish]
(72.S.) [Site]
Some 200 yds. [yards] E.S.E. [East South East] of Upper Haster Farm
house at the lower end of a cultivated field
some 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the Haster Burn are the
foundations of St. Cuthberts church. It
appears to have been a chancelled building
and to have measured interiorly about 40' x 14'
The chancel wall has crossed the interior
about 13' from the E. [East] end. As the wall
faces are not exposed their measurements
may not be absolutely accurate.
[Margin] "(15)
A green mound at the edge of the bank
some 100 yds. E. [yards East] of the Haster Burn and
about 250 yds. W. [yards West] of Old Stirkoke farm house
covers the remains of a broch. About 2/3 of
the mound have been removed from the
N. [North] side and no wall face is anywhere
visible. The original diameter has been
from 80' - 90'. (See Anderson, Iron Age - p. page 232.)
[Margin] Tarmach (14)
In the middle of an arable field some 300
yds. N. [yards North] of Tarmach farm house and
some 50 yds. E. [yards East] of the road to Thrumster
is a stony mound which has been
ploughed over measuring some 77' in
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diameter and 5' to 6' in elevation above the
surrounding level. It is evidently the remains
of a broch.
[Margin] Standing Stone Gansclet (48)
About ? 1/4 M. [mile] N.W. [North West] of the school house at Gansclet
in an arable field is a large slab 7'. 4" in length
4" in thickness, 3'.7" in breadth at base, and
2' in breadth at the top. It is supported
by three or four smaller slabs driven into the
ground on either face and rests on another
protruding 1'.6" above ground. It faces
E. and W. [East and West] The large slab with the base
on which it rests is said to have formed
a single standing stone and to have been
broken by a blow from a hammer some
60 years ago. It was re-erected at the time
by orders of the proprietor .
[Margin] Broch (Gansclet) unnoted.
In rear and partially beneath the house
of Henry Taylor at Gansclet somewhat
less than 1/4 m. [mile] W.S.W. [West South West] of the standing stone
is an artificial mound overgrown with
turf from which a number of flat stones
protrude. It measures some 70' in diameter
and 5' in height and is evidently the
ruin of a broch.
[Margin] Thrumster Broch. (17)
Within a small paddock to the S. [South] of
the avenue from the E [East] to Thrumster Ho. [House] and
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on a slight elevation are the remains of a broch.
The structure has been cleared out and a portion
of the wall towards the S. [South] removed, the ruins
of a summer house occupying the site.
The interior diameter is 36': the width of the
wall at base about 15'4 at 3'. 6" elevation 13'6 - 14'.
The greatest height remaining exteriorly and
interiorly is 3'.6". The entrance appears to
have been from the S. [South]. The left or W. [West] wall
of the passage seems to remain the other side
has been removed. Some 18' along the inner
circumference from the interior end of the
passage wall there appears to be a built up
entrance some 3' 6" wide. The top of
the wall is covered with turf and no
other signs of chambers are visible.
[Margin] bracket running length of paragraph
10' 6" to the right of the present entrance
there is built in near the top of the wall
a boulder on the exposed face of which
near one end is a circular saucer shaped
depression 4 1/2" in diameter and about
1/2" in depth. This stone may have been
placed in its present position when the
broch was cleared out.
At Gansclet we were referred to
Alisdair Oag an elderly joiner for
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for information & from him I learned the
foregoing statement regarding the standing stone.
He had assisted at Dr. [Doctor] Anderson's various
excavations in the neighbourhood.
The crofters here are a pleasanter more
intelligent looking race than those in
Sutherland, though their condition appears
no better and their accommodation worse.
They seem even less clean in their houses & persons!
[Margin] Little Thrumster Broch (16)
In the corner of a field about 80 yds. S. [yards South] of
Thrumster Little, farm house are the remains
of a broch. The outer circumference is
everywhere visible and shows a diameter
over all of 56' 6". The foundation stones
are of great size. The inner face is
only cleared for some 20' to the left of
the end of the entrance passage and is
exposed for a height of about 3'. 6"
The Entrance has been from the E.N.E. [East North East] through
a passage some 13' in length and 3'3" wide
at the outer end. At 5'.6" inwards are
door jambs projecting from either side
narrowing the passage to 2'. 6". In
rear of them the passage expands, however,
to 3' 10" which width it seems to maintain
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for the rest of its course. The passage is roofless
& ruined and the existence of a guard chamber
is unascertainable without excavation.
At 8' round the inner circumference on the
left of the entrance is an opening about 1'. 6" square
which appears to have been a shaft for light
above the entrance to a chamber. The chamber
is visible through a small aperture in the roof
some 4' behind the face of the wall on the interior.
The greatest height of wall visible on the ex:
:terior is about 4'. For the most part the ruin
is beneath a grassy mound the highest
point of which is about 9' above the level
of the field and some 3' above the highest
elevation of wall visible in the interior
Presuming the thickness of the wall to be the
same all round the interior diameter must
be about 30'. 6".
[Margin] Hempriggs.
(Broch.
(13)
In a small plantation to the S [South] of the
lodge at the entrance to Hempriggs House
are the remains of a broch. A grassy
mound some 10' in height partially
removed on the E. [East] covers the ruins. The
outline of the broch is in places exposed and shows
that the diameter has been about 56' over all.
No other details are visible.
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24th May 1910
A lovely day - the first summer day
we have had this year. My rule this year
is to write up my notes immediately after
breakfast and set out for the day about 11.0.
Accompanied by J. we started in the direction of
Wick.
[Margin] Hill of Stemster
(Unnoted)
On the Hill of Stemster about 1 1/2 m. [miles] to the
W. [West] of Wick and some 300 yds. [yards] S.S.E. [South South East] of
Stemster farm house at the upper end of a
cultivated field is a grassy mound which
has at one time been ploughed over but is
now fenced off as uncultivable. A number
of flat stones lying about the surface suggest
that it covers the ruins of a broch. The
mound, which is much spread, has a dia:
:meter of about 110' and an elevation of 3' - 4'.
Bicycling onwards through Wick we saw
the unloading of great numbers of steam
drifters and fishing boats all laden with
herrings and watching the women cleaning
and packing the fish with marvellous speed.
Wick is a busy but unsavoury place!
[Opposite page]
[Photograph inserted] Castle of Old Wick
[Margin] Castle of Old Wick
(41)
A little over a mile S. [South] of the town of Wick
on the top of the cliffs stands the castle of
Old Wick. It occupies a remarkable situ:
:ation near the landward end of a narrow
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promontory which with deep geos on either
side projects about 100 yds. [yards] to seaward. The
keep, which still remains
to a height of some 25'-30', is a rectangular
block of masonry measuring interiorly some
24' x 16'3" and having walls about 7' in thick:
:ness. It has had three stories and no vaults
on the basement or above. The door way has
been in the E. [East] angle facing to sea ward
where now is a gap in the wall some 13' wide.
[Opposite Page]
(There is a groove in the S.E. [South East] wall on 1st. floor level some
5' wide in the middle of the wall) This has
probably been for a wooden architrave. --
There is no sign of a stair. On the first floor
is a small chamber in the S.E. [South East] wall. Near the
entrance, (presuming that to have been at the
1st. floor level) There has been a window on
each floor in the S.E. [South East] wall and on the
second floor a single aperture overlooks
the approach from landward. In
the S. [South] corner the wall is badly rent from
top to bottom and much bulged.
At the landward end of the promontory
some 30 yds. [yards] from the keep there are visible
the remains of a low rampart placed
across it while in rear of it on either
side of the approach are the foundations
of a small rectangular building.
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[Left Hand Page]
Sketch inserted
Sketch plan Castle of Old Wick
MacG. & R. consider this probably the oldest castle in Caithness.
[Right Hand Page]
At 60' onwards, a trench some 30' in width
and 10' in depth has been cut through the
rock from side to side immediately below
the keep. The approach over this has probably
been by a drawbridge onto the area some 20'
in width between the N.W. [North West] wall of the castle
and the edge of the cliff. Towards the
outer end of the promontory for a
distance of 174' there are foundations
of buildings on either side with a roadway
down the centre, leaving a court measuring
so 70' x 47' unbuilt on at the seaward extremity.
In the neighbourhood of the castle the
Primula Scottica is growing plentifully
though we did not see many plants in flower.
[Margin] "Mound"
OS [Ordnance Survey] Picts House
(46)
About 1 1/2 m. [miles] S. [South] of the castle of Old Wick
and 1/2 m. [mile] E.S.E. [East South East] of Hempriggs House in rear
of a deserted cottage is a low grassy
mound. It has a diameter of some
50' and elevation of from 3' to 4'.
Near the centre two large slabs nearly
at right angles to each other protrude
through the turf. The largest lying
nearly N & S. [North & South] is 3'4" long, 6"- 8" thick & is
visible for 2'. The true character of the
mound is not obvious but the slabs suggest
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that it is a chambered cairn. It is stony
all over beneath the turf.
[Margin] Humster broch
(12)
Returning through Wick we bicycled down
the Lybster Road to Humster. About 1 3/4 m. [miles]
S. [South] of Wick and some 300 yds. [yards] N. [North] of Northfield
farm house is a grassy mound fenced
off from the surrounding arable land.
A cairn of flat stones on the top has evidently
been gathered off it and it appears to be the
site of a broch though no sign of the
structure is visible. The mound has at
one time been ploughed over. It has a diameter
of some 96' and an elevation of about 5'.
On the W. [West] there are signs of a surrounding
ditch some 40' in width as the mound is
sharply scarped in that direction and for
a short distance a counterscarp remains.
We returned about 4.30 rather tired
with the glare & heat of the sun.
25th. May 1910.
A glorious morning. Bicycled to Watten
& called on Mr Nicolson, Sir Ralph Anstruther's
factor. Thereafter proceeded to Old Hall of
Dunn.
[Margin] Watten Par [Parish]
Old Church
(1)
About 1/4 S. by W. [South by West] of Old Hall farm house within
a graveyard are the ruins of an old
church. It measures interiorly 48' x 18'
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and has two ? elliptical arched windows on the
S. [South] wall. The entrance is from the E. [East] It appears
to be an 18th. century building (See. Origines - Stat Acct [Statistical Account] etc).
Beneath the W. [West] half of the Church is a burial vault.
[Margin] Cairn of Dunn
(6)
Some 200 yds. [yards] S. [South] of Old Hall is a grass covered
stony mound probably covering the ruins of
a broch. A few flat stones
are visible on the surface but there is no accurate
indication either of the extent of the ruin or of
its character The mound at highest has an
elevation of some 4'. The situation of the mound
is on the top of a high bank above a burn and
for a distance of about 30' there remains a low
[Margin] ?
rampart in form of a segment along the edge of
this bank. The diameter across the centre of the
mound from the top of the rampart is 58'.
[Margin] Cairn of Dunn
(6)
Across a glen from the last broch and
some 350 SE. [South East] of Old Hall is another round
stony mound probably a broch. It is situated in a cutiva:
:ted field, commanding an extensive prospect
and has been frequently ploughed over. The
surface is strewn with fragments of slatey
stone but no structure is visible. The
diameter of the mound is about 100' and
its elevation some 3'.
[Margin] Broch Old Hall
(7)
Some 500 yds [yards] N. [North] of Old Hall on the N. [North] side
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of the public road near the edge of the cultivated
field is a large grass covered mound which
probably contains the remains of a broch. No part
of the structure is visible but a circular depression
on the summit near the N. [North] end may indicate
the interior court. The surface of the field
is lowest on the W. [West] and from that direction
the mound has an elevation of about 11'. From
the N. [North] the greatest height is some 8'.
[Margin] Backlass
Mound
(12)
About 1/2 m. [mile] to the S. [south] of Houstry of Dunn farm
buildings on an enclosed tract of waste land
is a mound which (?) bears the name of Gallow
Hillock. It is entirely overgrown with turf but
boulders which protrude from it suggest
that it is possibly a cairn. It is some 85'
in length lying with its main axis SE and NW. [South East and North West]
At the SE [south East] end it measures 21' across and gradually
expanding, measures at the NW. [North West] 42'. Its greatest
elevation is about 3'.
[Margin] Stone Circle
Old Hall
(10)
[Opposite Page]
Diagram inserted --
On the S. [South] end of a low ridge about 100 yds [yards]
N. [North] of Old Hall farm house is a single
standing stone - 4' 4" high above ground,
3' 3" in breadth and 1' 5" in thickness. It
faces N. & S. [North & South] No other stones of a circle
remain.
[Margin] Broch
Green Hill
Wester Watten
(3)
A grass covered knoll immediately
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to the W. [West] of Wester Watten house conceals the
remains of a broch. The only part of the
structure visible is the entrance passage which
has been partially cleared out. It faces the S. [South]
[Opposite Page]
Diagram with scale
0 -- 10' -- 20'
Entrance to broch, Wester Watten --
The total length of passage wall exposed is 31'
on the left and 29' on the right. The inner end
is not exposed but where last visible the left
wall is curving to the right. At 8' in from
the exterior on the left side and 8'. 6" on the
right are door checks formed by slabs.
No bar hole appears behind them.
The width of the passage outside them is 2' 6"
and immediately in rear of them 5'. It thereafter
again contracts and at 14' from the outside
where the first lintel is met it is 2' 8". At 8' 6"
from the outside on the right is the entrance
to a guard chamber. The entrance is 2'. 6" wide
and the chamber and passage to it are almost
filled with debris. At 4' inwards from the
inner side of the entrance to the guard chamber
is another door check but the corresponding
check on the opposite wall is not exposed.
It projects 6" into the passage. The
lintel covers the passage for a distance of 7'. 6".
The diameter of the mound along the
line of the passage is some 92' and at
right angles to that direction 86'. Its elevation
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from 9' - 10'. We were hospitably entertained
to tea by Mrs Davidson the farmer's wife a
daughter of Mr Miller of Scrabster whom I hope
to meet later on.
26th May 1910.
[Margin]
Wick Par [Parish]
Stormy & wet with a falling glass. Bicycling
quite out of the question so "footed" it. Followed
the high road to Bilbster House, & there taking
to the fields followed up the right bank of the
Wick river:
[Margin]
Cairn, Bilb.
:ster.
(39)
About 1 1/4 mile above Bilbster Ho. [House]
on the right or S. [South] bank of the Wick river on the
W. [West] end of a low ridge are the remains
of a chambered cairn. It has been excavated
at some remote period and as much of the
stone has been removed the details of the
chamber are not fully ascertainable. Two
large slabs 10' apart from each other at the
E. [East] and W. [West] near the centre of the cairn and
a third slab stands almost at right angles
to the E [East] slab adjoining the N. [North] end of it.
The slabs measures about 3'. 5", 3'. 6" and 3'. 8" in
breadth respectively. and 5" to 6" in thickness. The
diameter of the cairn from N. to S. [North to South] has
been about 70' and from E. to W. [East to West] 62. but
as it is overgrown with grass the outline
is indefinite. The entrance appears to
have been from the SE. [South East] Near the circum:
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[Opposite Page] Diagram inserted with scale
0 -- 10 -- 20
Chambered Cairn 1 1/4 M. [Miles] N.W. [North West] of Bilbster Ho. [House] --
:ference two slabs 2' & 2'. 8" in breadth stand
in line 1'. 10" apart and in rear of one of them
are two other similar stones set parallel each
4' apart. The third stone from the circumference
is 18'. 6' from the S. [South] end of the E [East] slab of the
chamber. If these stones have been in the
walls of the entrance passage it must have
approached the existing or partially existing
chamber at an angle. The
remains of the chamber are, however, too fragmentary
for accurate definition of its original form.
[Margin] Standing Stone.
North Bilbster
(40)
In a grass park about 150 yds. [yards] W. [West] of North
Bilbster farm buildings on a slope which
reaches from the higher ground to the haugh
by the Wick river is a granite boulder standing
to a height of 8'.6" above ground. Its greatest
girth some 3' above the ground is 17'. 8" and
its thickness about 4'. 8". It is pointed towards
the upper extremity.
[Margin] unnoted
About 120 yds. [yards] to the SSW. [South South West] of North Bilbster
farm buildings on the W. [West] end of a morraine
which runs parallel with the river are several
erect slabs protruding from the turf and
another lying displaced on the slope.
[Margin] Doubtful
?
The latter measures 6' in length by 3' in width
& 5" in thickness. This is probably the remains
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of a chambered cairn.
Recrossing the river to the S. [South] bank we proceeded
looking for the broch of Hunster indicated
on Sir F. Tress Barry's map as about 1 m. [mile] E [East] of
Bilbster Ho. [House] There was no visible signs of any:
:thing of this kind near the spot indicated
nor was any elucidation obtained from the
farm servants at Nethertown. Wandering
several miles eastward we crossed the river
by the railway bridge and came to the
site of St Mary's church. The foundations
are visible on the low ground near the river
about 1/2 m. [mile] S. [South] of Sibster House. None of the
building remains visible. The church appears to
have measured interiorly some 40' x 20'
[Margin]
Cairn
(44)
On the left bank of the Wick river
about 1/2 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] of Sibster the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] marks a
cairn. It was near the site of the battle
of Altimaclach fought in (?) 1688 and was
excavated by Mr Rhind (See Antiq. [Antiquities] 2. 372).
It seems to have been entirely removed
probably to build a sheep stell which
has been recently erected near the spot.
We walked about 12 m. [miles] under most
unpleasant conditions & were glad to
get home about 4.30.
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27th May 1910.
A disagreeable morning with a
wetting mist and a falling glass. Set off
on bicycles to visit the objects on the burn
of Acherole.
[Margin]
Watten Par. [Parish]
Broch
Banks of Watten
(13)
On the moor about 3/4 m. [mile] WSW. [West South West] of Banks
of Watten at the W [West] end of a low ridge is
a grassy mound. The number of flattish
stones exposed over its surface suggest
that it is a broch. The outline of the
remains apart from the natural level of the
ridge is so indefinite that dimensions are
unobtainable.
[Margin]
Cairn.
Scouthal.
(25)
Cuckoo Hill.
On the summit of a ridge running
parallel on the W. [West] with the burn of Acherole
is a grass covered cairn. It lies at
the NE. [North East] extremity of Scouthal wood and some
400 yds. [yards] S.W. [South West] of the cottage. Its diameter
is some 30' to 32' and its elevation 3'. 6 to 4'.
*It does not appear to have been excavated.
[Margin]
Chapel, site
"The Clow"
(2)
At a spot know as The Clow where the
Acherole burn makes a sharp turn from its
Southward course towards the E. [East] at the upper
end of the Scouthal Wood, are the fragmentary
remains of a chapel. It appear to have con:
:sisted of a chancel and nave the former
measuring interiorly 14' x 10' and the latter
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26' or 27' x 16'. The walls have been some
4' in thickness. A faced opening through the
E [East] wall of the chancel near the N. [North] side seems to
indicate an entrance, while a depression in
the mound covering the S. [South] wall of the nave
near its W. [West] end probably marks the doorway
into that portion of the church. The base
of the wall separating the two areas has been
some 4'.6" in thickness. The walls appear to
have been built without mortar. The wall of
of the nave in places on the interior is visible for some
3' in height otherwise it is overgrown with
turf. The W. [West] of the ruin is an
old enclosure and several foundations
of old rectangular buildings around it.
[Margin] Broch.
Scouthal
(26)
On the W. [West] side of the road to Acherole
from Watten about 1/2 m. [mile] beyond Scouthal
is a grassy hillock. The character of the
[Margin] "Carn a Chladha"
stones disclosed about its surface points
to its being a broch. It measures some 70'
in diameter and some 10' in elevation.
[Margin] Broch Acherole
(9)
About 2 m. [miles] up the burn of Acherole from
Watten near Acherole are the conspicuous
remains of a broch. From the moorland
there rises a grassy hillock on the sides
and summit of which much shaley stone
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[Continued from page 18]
has been exposed. The mound is somewhat
oval on plan with its longest axis E. [East] and W. [West]
[Opposite Page]
Sketch inserted with scale
Section of Acherole broch from W. [West] to S. [South]
0' -- 10' -- 20' -- 30'
(see Barry's Notes.)
[2 photographs of broch inserted] --
At an elevation of some 8' or 9' on the N [North] and S. [South]
sides and gradually diminishing to 2' and 3' at
the E. [East] and W [West] ends is a terrace, or glacis, some
12' - 14' in width. Along the outer edge of this
terrace on the N. [North] are visible the remains of a wall or
stony rampart now some 8' to 10' broad at base -
The upper portion of the hillock which con:
:tains the ruins of the broch measures in
diameter from E [East] to W. [West] about 108' and from
N. to S. [North to South] about 78'. Its elevation from the level
of the terrace at the E [East] and W [West] ends is about
14' and from the N. [North] and S. [South] about 9'6".
The lower part of the hillock as well as the
upper is to some extent artificial.
[Margin] Standing Stone
(Stone Circle)
Acherole.
About 1/4 m. [mile] of the shepherd's cottage
at Acherole and some 250 yds [yards] N. [North] of the road
is a standing stone. It is a large boulder
oblong in transverse section - some 4'.10" in
height - 13' in circumference and 4' in longest
diameter. At 21'.3" to the W. [West] of it lies displaced
another block measuring 6' in length, 2'.8"
in breadth and 1'.9" in depth. The upright
stone stands with its narrow ends towards
the NNW [North North West] and SSE [South South East] and the prostrate stone
[Continued on page 20] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-20 |
[Page] 20
[Continued from page 19]
lies pointing WNW [West North West] and ESE. [East South East] Both stones have
probably been members of a stone circle. From
the top of a mound somewhere near Sir F. T. Barry
recovered an urn from a stone cist. The urn
is said to be in the National Museum (see Antiq). [Antiquities]
[Margin] Watten Broch
(14)
In a grass park on the edge of a bank and
about 1/2 m [mile] S by W [South by West] of Watten village are the remains
of a broch beneath a grass covered knoll. The
base of the building is exposed at one or two
places showing that the diameter over all was
64'. On the SE. [South East] for a distance of about 8' a
small portion of wall is exposed of a height of
some 2' evidently the inner wall face of a
chamber. The mound is about 8' high.
On the S. [South] several very large boulders in line
project a foot or two above the turf at a distance
of 22' from the base of the broch indicating
some outer wall.
28 May 1910.
J and I drove into Wick to catch
the 8.45 for Thurso. There I called on
Mr Peter Keith, agent for Sir Tollemache Sinclair,
Mr Donald Mackay, Capt. [Captain] Sinclair's agent,
and Mr Brim's Agent for the Traill Estates.
We secured a small house called Tigh
-na-Mara, on the outskirts of the town
for August and as much of September as we
[Continued on page 21] |
|
| gb0551ms-36-17-21 |
[Page] 21
[Continued from page 20]
require. It is very small but will just ac:
:commodate us. I had a look through the
old part of the town neat the harbour and
noted that several old houses having initials or
dates on the skewputs & picturesque features.
It is a clean attractive town contrasting
favourably with Wick. In the after:
:noon we went on to Borrobol where we
spent a pleasant Sunday with the Sykes.
30th May 1910.
Left the train on our return from Borrobol
at Watten Station where I met Alick. It
[Margin] Watten.
was another dull stormy day. Taking
the road to Gersa I examined a mound
[Margin] Broch Scottay
(O.S. [Ordnance Survey] cairn)
on the road side some 25 yards E. [East] of Scottay
farm house. It is a low mound over:
:grown with grass and surmounted with
a modern cairn. It appears to have been
considerably reduced by the removal of
stones. It has an elevation of some 5' above
the level of the field. The flat stones exposed
about its surface show it to be the remains
of a broch.
A short distance further North is the
school house of Gersa. There I called on
Mr Sutherland who produced boxes full of relics
from the Cogle broch which
[Continued on page 22] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-22 |
[Page] 22
[Continued from page 21]
he had assisted with Dr [Doctor] Anstruther Davidson
to excavate in 1905.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
Relics from Cogle broch kept at Cogle Farm --
The relics consist of
bones, shells, deer horn - remains of three vessels
of pottery, two of them of rather fine thin ware
with everted lips, numerous stone pounders,
rubbing stones, thin discs of shale, a fine bone
pin 4 1/2" in length which has been pierced at
the thick end where half of the "eye" remains
several deer tines which have been sharpened
etc. The broch was planned by Mr John
Nicholson and thereafter filled in for pre:
:servation. It occupies the stockyard
to the East of Cogle farm house and is now
recognisable as a low mound with an
elevation of some 2', overgrown with vegetation.
Mr Sutherland will write an account of
the excavation for the Society of Antiquaries
& such relics as I select will be sent to the
Museum for inspection & illustration.
By the time I had finished the inspection of
the relics and the site & had photographed
the objects at the farm it was getting
on 5. o'clock so we set off homewards
a four or five miles walk. No remains
of rotary querns were found in the
broch - only portions of large saddle querns.
[Continued on page 23] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-23 |
[Page] 23
[Continued from page 22]
31st May 1910.
Bicycled to Wick. Called on ex-baillie
Simpson & saw his querns etc. also on Rev.
[Reverend] Mr Beaton. Visited Lybater with the director
of the Lybster & Wick Railway traveling on the
engine with the secretary J. L. Smith, an old
friend. I made the acquaintance of J.
Harling Turner, the Duke of Portland's factor
at Langwell, & Mr King the sub-factor
who offered to give me every assistance
and put me up. I also saw various other
people who will be helpful. In the after:
:noon after our return I inspected the "font"
in Stirkoke garden.
[Margin] Old "font"
Stirkoke Ho. [House]
[Opposite Page]
13th June 1910. Today in ex-baillie Simpson's garden
I have seen two similar stone "basins" both of
which have been knocking troughs and I am
inclined to think that that at Stirkoke from its extreme
rudeness to have served a similar purpose. --
In the centre of the flower garden at Stirkoke
House, there stands a rudely shaped circular
block of sandstone having a deep basin
hollowed out of it on the top. The height
of the block is 1'.4", its circumference at top
6'.3" at base 5'. The diameter is 2' over
all across the basin and 1'.6" within it
There is no sign of ornament and the
edge of the basin is rounded . This stone
is said to have been found in the Haster
Ford of the Wick river near the ruins of
the ancient church of St. Mary and
to have been removed by a blacksmith to
[Continued on page 24] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-24 |
[Page] 24
[Continued from page 23]
his smithy in the neighbourhood where, filled
with water, it was used for cooling iron in.
From the smithy it was removed to its present
site. It is very possibly a font. Though the
interior has been carefully smoothed the shaping
of the exterior has been very rudely accomplished.
1st June 1910.
[Margin] Watten Par. [Parish]
Toddy Hillock
(19)
Bicycled westward to Watten parish
against a most unpleasant wind.
In a field some 300 yards SE. [South East] of Auckingill
Bridge is a low oval cairn lying with
its longest axis E and W [East and West] and measuring
some 22' x 17'. Its greatest elevation is only 1 1/2'
Being largely overgrown with turf little is
visible and it is probably only a remnant.
It bears the name of Toddy Hillock
[Margin] Oslie Cairn
(8)
Some 350 yds. [yards] S. by W. [south by West] of Lynegar House
and about 100 yds. [yards] N. [north] of the shore of Loch Watten
is a grass covered hillock the true
character of which is unrevealed.
On the summit just protruding through
the soil is the edge of a large slab lying
NNW. and SSE [North North West and South South East] measuring about 6'.5"
in length and 9" or 10" in thickness while
parallel to its ENE [East North East] face at either end
2' to 3' distant are two shorter slabs about
[Continued on page 25] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-25 |
[Page] 25
[Continued from page 24]
1'.9" in length.
[Opposite Page]
Diagram inserted --
The outline of the mound
is very indefinite but the diameter appears
to be from 50' - 60'. This is probably a
chambered cairn. (? Rhind)
[Margin] Broch
"Grey Cairn".
Lynegar.
(18)
In a grass field about 1/4 m. [mile] SSE [South South East] of
Lynegar House and some 100 yds. [yards] N. [North] of
Loch Watten is a grassy mound which
has been under cultivation. The diameter
of the mound is some 79' and its greatest
elevation about 5'. From the character of
the stones exposed there is no doubt that
it is a broch.
[Margin] Lynegar
(mound)
(17)
In a grass park on the N. [North] side of the
road to Wick and some 500 yds. [yards] ENE [East North East] of
Lynegar House is a grass covered mound
with a diameter of 93' from N to S. [North to South] and
99' from E to W. [East to West] with an elevation of from
5' to 6'. There are no definite indications
on the surface of the character of the
construction but such stones as are visible
are suggestive rather of a cairn than a
broch.
[Margin] Stone Hone
(16)
A much disintegrated limestone boulder
in the middle of a field to the NE [North East] of farm
cottages about 1 m. [mile] ENE. [East North East] of Lynegar appears
to be the Stone Hone. Its position is wrongly
[Continued on page 26] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-26 |
[Page] 26
[Continued from page 25]
placed on the 1" map if this is the object
meant. There is a hole into which field rubbish
stones etc. are thrown where the map
indicates it. A cairn may have existed here but nothing of it remains
[Margin]
Omit
Hand bell
Watten Manse.
There is preserved at Watten Manse an
ancient hand bell very similar to that in the Manse of Cockburnspath, Benwickshire
only having the inscription more rudely cast.
It has apparently been cast with the handle
in one piece but the latter, except the bell metal
knob which surmounts it, is now sheathed
in a thick coating of lead, or solder, to strengthen
it. The height of the bell itself is 5" and
of the handle 3 1/2". Diameter at mouth
5 7/8"- circumference at shoulder 11 1/2". The
tongue and iron hook from which it is sus:
:pended are both of iron and appear to be
of later date than the bell itself. Around
the bell, very roughly cast is the following
inscription. IC. VATIN. 1661.
[Margin] Watten Manse.
On a piece of moorland about 1/4 m. [mile] N by W [North by West]
of Watten Mamse is a grassy mound
which has been evidently to a considerable
degree removed. Near the centre is a
[Continued on page 27] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-27 |
[Page] 27
[Continued from page 26]
partial circle of boulders protruding some
14" to 18" above the turf and of somewhat similar
length. The diameter of the interior is 12'
and there appears to have been an entrance
from the S. [South] I don't know what this
has been. (Unnoted)
[Margin] Broch
Gersa
(21)
Situated in an arable field some 250 yds. [yards]
E. [East] of Gersa farm is a grass covered
mound surmounted by a small modern
cairn of flat stones. There are no stones
visible on the surface to indicate the
character of the mound but from those
of which the cairn is built it is presumably
a broch. The extent is quite indefinite.
The greatest elevation some 6'. From
the E [East] side a considerable amount of the
mound has been removed.
In returning called at Watten Inn to ar:
:range about a boat for fishing. There
Mr Smith showed me a curious old
swan necked brown jug with a handle in
form of two interwoven cords. I made a
drawing of it. It had a Persian or Indian
look about it. J. fished in Watten
Loch with Sheriff Dudley Stewart but caught
nothing. It has been a fine day.
[Continued on page 28] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-28 |
[Page] 28
[Continued from page 27]
2 June 1910.
A stormy day. Having trysted Mr
Sutherland from Gersa school at 12.15 at the
Kirk Stones we were off betimes on bicycles
through Wick and five miles beyond on the
Thurso Road to Killimster. Here leaving
our bicycles at a croft we struck down to:
:wards the Loch of Killimster. The people
use many uncommon words here. A
good lady bringing her horses in from
the field "charted' me to my destination and
explained that there were many "false steps"
by the road I had intended taking.
[Margin] Wick.
Kirk o' Moss
Site of.
From the heathery surface of the Moss
of Killimster about 1 m. [mile] to the west of the#
loch of that name there rises a green
ridge with an elevation of some 8' to 10'
and stretching NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East] for a distance
of some 400' and an average width of
about 120'. It is remote from habitation and
difficult of access except along the bank
of the burn, or "canal" as it is locally called,
from the East. Towards the SSE. [South South East] end
on the highest point are foundations
of a building lying E and W. [East and West] built
of large blocks of freestone. So disturbed
and overgrown are these foundations
[Continued on page 29] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-29 |
[Page] 29
[Continued from page 28]
that the plain without excavation is not ascertainable
but they appear to be those of a building
measuring over all some 30' in length by
17' in breadth. To the S. [South] of this site
has been a square enclosure such as might
be a garden or graveyard and at the
SSE [South South East] side of it are the foundations marked
on the turf of several small rectangular
structures. Some 60' NNW [North North West] of the site of
the church is another enclosure surrounded
by a stone wall now much overgrown
& containing the ruins of a small rect:
:angular building in its midst. This building
& the wall of the enclosure around it are
possibly of later date than the kirk.
At the extreme NNW. [North North West] end of the ridge are
two or three low mounds of some 25' dia. [diameter]
of indeterminable character.
About 250 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the Kirk Stones on
the left bank of the Kirk o' Moss burn is
a small green mound some 22' to 23'
in diameter and 3' in elevation with slight
depressions several feet in length & breadth on
the top. This is known locally as Brigand's
Swine House! Though plough ridges are
visible on the adjacent moorland it must
[Continued on page 30] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-30 |
[Page] 30
[Continued from page 29]
be long since there was any cultivation near
the spot. We returned to where our bicycles
were "stabled" just as rain began to fall &
in a barn, part of a range of antiquated buildings
that contained the dwelling house, cow byre
& hen house, we found shelter till we were
able to make our way back to Wick. There
I met the Crees.
3rd June 1910.
The usual strong wind blowing. Re:
:turned on bicycle to Killimster to inspect
objects I had not time to see on Thursday.
[Margin] [Ring] of Skitten
B.4.
I was unable to discover this object or
locally to find out anything about it. I
must apply to John Nicholson.
Hearing that Mr Donald Mackenzie from
Bonar Bridge was visiting in a croft nearby
I paid him a visit. He had found a
beautiful flint knife or scraper on the
croft a few hours before.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
Donald Mackenzie
Bonar Bridge
[Sketch inserted]
Flint scraper from Killimster. --
[Margin] Broch
Killimster
(30)
Situated in arable land from which it is
railed off 1/2 m. [miles] S.E [South East] of Skilter croft at Killim:
:ster is a broch. The green hillock which
conceals its ruins has been in part excavated
by Sir Francis Tress Barry. and about one
half of the inner face of the wall on either
side of the entrance has been exposed.
[Continued on page 31] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-31 |
[Page] 31
[Continued from page 30]
The broch is much ruined and the shaley stone
of which it is built much disintegrated.
The entrance has been from the W by N. [West by North] through
a passage some 15' in length 3' in width at
the outside. At 3'.7" inwards on either side
are rebates for a door, the passage widening
to 3'.5" and a sill 3' in thickness rises for
4" above the floor. At 1'.10" in rear of the
door checks on the right side is the entrance
to a guard chamber which has measured some
12'.6" in length and 6'.6" at greatest width. The
inner or left side of the wall at the passage
is gone. The diameter of the
interior of the broch has been some 33'.
The greatest height of wall visible in the
interior is 5' and the thickness of the wall
at this level is 14'.6". The greatest height
of wall visible in the passage is 4'.4". The
passage roof & also that of the guard chamber
are awanting. Within the interior to the
left of the entrance is an enclosure formed
of upright slabs, the one side of which is
in line with the left wall of the passage
It is 6' in length, 4'.6" in breadth against
the wall of the broch and 3'.3" at the opposite
end. A. similar enclosure seems to have
[Continued on page 32] |
|
| gb0551ms-36-17-32 |
[Page] 32
[Continued from page 31
existed on the opposite side of the entrance
and a number of displaced slabs round to the left
in the interior imply the existence of others.
Immediately opposite the entrance in the
interior and some 10' inwards the corner
of a building is exposed. The side in line with
the right wall of the main passage exposed for 2'.4" in
length and that at right angles & facing the
entrance is visible for a shorter part of its
length
[Opposite Page]
^. [caret mark] At 12' to the left of the entrance on the
face of the wall in the interior 3'.9" above
present ground level is a recess some
6" square at the outside extending inwards
for 1'.3" & diminishing in size.
There is no sign of scarcement. --
[^ caret mark] On the exterior of the broch, towards
the N. [North] at some 3'.3" distant from it, the inner
face of an outer wall has been exposed
curving inwards from the NW. [North West] and
passing Eastwards.
[Margin] Killimster
Moss.
"Picts Ho." [House]
(41)
Towards the SE. [South East] corner of the Moss of
Killimster surrounded on all sides by
bog is a hillock overgrown with heather
[Margin]
Barry's Green Hall
pits.
A considerable portion of it has been removed
and where a section has been exposed its
natural gravelly character is evident.
There are on the upper surface a number
of hollows measuring some 6' in diameter
by 1'.6" in depth and around the base
of the mound there is a suggestion of
a trench some 6' - 8' wide encircling it
except space of some 12' towards the
[Continued on page 33] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-33 |
[Page] 33
[Continued from page 32]
NE [North East] when the ground appears to have been left at its
original level. The height of the hillock is from
6' to 8' and its superficial area which has been
oval in plan has measured some 60' x 90' but,
as already mentioned, a considerable portion
has been removed - & that from its longest direction.
There are no signs of building or ruins visible.
[Margin] Greenhill
Broch-Killimster.
(31)
About 1/4 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] from Killimster farm is a
grassy mound which has been partially ex:
:cavated and in which the ruins of a broch
are partially exposed. About one half of the
inner periphery of the structure has been
cleared on either side of the entrance and
the passage has been partially cleared out.
The entrance has been from the W. [West] along
an outer passage curving from the S. [South] still
visible for 15' in length outside the broch.
On the right of this outer passage 3'.6" distant
from the broch is a check for a door faced
with a thin slab and on the same side,
immediately adjoining the broch, is an entrance
to a passage or chamber 2'.6" wide. Outside
the check this outer passage is 2'.10" wide
within it is 4' wide. The passage through
the wall of the broch is 13'.6" in length
and some 3'.6" wide at the inner end.
[Continued on page 34] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-34 |
[Page] 34
[Continued from page 33]
At 4'.5" from the inner end have been
checks for a door. The passage is only
partially cleared and is much ruined.
The diameter of the interior of the broch has
been 26'. The greatest height of wall visible
in the interior is 3'.8" but the base is covered
with debris. The external face where exposed
is quite insignificant in elevation. Outside
the broch to the N. [North] of the entrance passage
the remains of considerable outbuilding have
been laid bare.
4th June 1910.
[Margin] Watten
Achingale Broch.
(4)
On the top of the right bank of the Strath
Burn just below the farm of Achingale
are the remains of a mound which has
probably concealed the ruins of a broch.
Only a small segment of the circular
mound now exists, the rest has
been removed.
[Margin] Cairn
Strath
(28)
On the top of a high bank on the E [East] of the
Strath burn and about 1/2 m. [mile] S W. [South West] of Strath -
is a cairn much delapidated and now
with an elevation of only from 1' to 2'.
it lies with its longest axis N. [North] & S. [South] is
about 70' in length and 16' in width.
There is no sign of either chamber or cist.
[Margin] Cairn
Strath
(28)
A few feet to the W. [West] of it at its N. [North] end
[Continued on page 35] |
|
| gb0551ms-36-17-35 |
[Page] 35
[Continued from page 34]
is a small circular cairn of about 9' dia. [diameter]
and 1' elevation.
Some 80' to the S [South] on a level terrace at a
bend in the burn is another long heap of
stones similar to that above noticed. It
lies with its longest axis E [East] and W. [West] and
measures some 40' by 16'. The elevation is
also trifling. There is no sign of either chamber
or cist.
[Margin] Cairns.
Glen Hill
(29-31)
[Opposite Page] see page 105. --
These cairns appear to have been totally
demolished. The site of a large one some
100 yds. [yards] E [East] of the road is evident measuring
about 66' in diameter.
[Margin] Hut circle
unnoted.
Some 50 yds. [yards] N E. [North East] of the large demolished
Cairn is what I take to be a hut circle.
The bank is entirely overgrown and much
spread out. The interior diameter is some
24'; the bank some 12' broad at base; and
the entrance from WSW [West South West]. The width of
the entrance is indefinite.
After 1'o'clock we returned to Watten
Loch where we fished till after 6.0. It
was far too bright for sport but I caught
four nice little trout which were very
game. On a suitable day this is a
first class loch.
[Continued on page 36] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-36 |
[Page] 36
[Continued from page 35]
6th June 1910.
Bicycled to Yarrows and at the
loch side met W. H. Midwood and his wife.
He was a schoolfellow whom I had not seen for
25 years. I hope to see more of him as he is tenant
of Thrumster.
[Margin] Cairn Reain
(49)
At the North end of the Loch of Yarrows
and immediately to the E. [East] of North Yarrows
is the site of a cairn which has been excavated
and removed and immediately adjoining
it there appears to be a second overgrown with turf. The latter does
not appear to have been excavated. From
E [East] to W [West] it has a diameter of some 40' and
from N [North] to S [South] of 50' but the edge of the cairn is
indefinite. Its elevation is about 5'. The cairns
stand on the end of a bank overlooking the
loch.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
Stone Rows. Battle Moss. Yarrows. --
[Margin] Stone Rows
Battle Moss
(No 50.)
Some 200 yds. [yards] down the E. [East] shore of the loch
from the burn of Thrumster which flows in at the NE [North East] corner, on a strip
of moorland lying between the cultivated
land and the loch are a number of parallel
rows of stones. The rows run almost due
N. [North] and S. [South] and with slight irregularities in
line are parallel. There are eight rows
in all, six of which are fairly complete
for a distance of about 130' to 138'. Of one
row near the centre of the monument only
[Continued on page 37] |
|
| gb0551ms-36-17-37 |
[Page] 37
[Continued from page 36]
a very few stones remain while the row
indicated on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] and the plan (op.cit.) [in work cited] as
being nearly double the length of the others or 384' in length is now
within the area of ploughed land and almost
eradicated. Broken fragments which probably
represent the stones lie on the adjacent heather
[Opposite Page]
17th June. 1910.
I have revisited the Battle Moss & counted
the stones actually visible. A considerable number
of others evidently in situ are concealed beneath small
mounds of peat.
From the E. [East]
1st row 8 stones
2nd row 10 stones
3rd row 13 - (one of which is uprooted)
4th row 9
5th row 3.
6th row 10
7th row 11. (one of which is uprooted)
8th row 11 (one of which is uprooted) --
The most Northerly stone of this row now visible
is 304' distant from the commencement of the row.
The distance between the rows varies from 5' to
7' 8" and the stones are set in the rows from
5' to 6'.6" apart. As in similar monuments
the stones are placed with their broad faces
looking across the rows. They are slabs of
freestone from 3" to 4" in thickness and
protrude from a few inches to about a foot
above the ground. Except where the cultivated
land has encroached none of the stones seem
to have been recently disturbed. --
[Margin] Broch of Yarrows
(20)
This broch was excavated by Dr [Doctor] Joseph
Anderson and has been fully described
and illustrated. It is now in a rather
dilapidated condition and the stone of
which it is built especially on the inner
face of the wall is disintegrating rapidly
The interior diameter is 27' and above the
scarcement 32. The greatest height of wall
[Continued on page 38] |
|
| gb0551ms-36-17-38 |
[Page] 38
[Continued from page 37]
now visible in the interior is 11' and the greatest
height of the lining, 6'. The length of the entrance
passage is 18' and 11' deducting the thickness of
the facing wall. The width of the
passage is 2'.8". There is no guard chamber and
the doorchecks occur at 11' from the outside
near the inner end of the passage. Three con:
:secutive lintels remain over the passage for 4'.6"
of its length. The Entrance to the stair is now
blocked. and only one of the windows is com:
:plete above it. The chamber at the foot of the
stair is still complete. It is 3'.8" wide at greatest
width and 6'.2" high. The walls slightly converge
upwards and support a roof of flags. The
steps of the stair are almost entirely hidden
with soil and vegetation. The chamber
entering from the interior opposite the main
entrance is still intact for some 9'.4" at its
S. [South] end. It measures 4' across at greatest
width and 6'.4" in height above the present
floor level. The walls which crossed the
Court are now hardly recognisable. A
large portion of the facing wall has
recently fallen away on the N. [North] side.
The outbuildings have entirely encircled
the broch. The walls of them are still in good
[Continued on page 39] |
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[Continued from page 38]
[Margin] Chambered Cairn.
Jarhouse
(51)
order. (For full description see Scot. in Pag. [Scotland in Pagan] Times, etc.)
On the hill side about 1/4 m. [mile] W. [West] of the broch
of Yarhouse are the dilapidated remains of a
chambered cairn which has been excavated.
[Margin]
This is the shorter of the two
long horned cairns excavated
by Dr [Doctor] Anderson. The short
horns at the W. [West] end are still
visible otherwise the cairn is
demolished beyond recognition.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
Entrance to hut circle - Yarrows. --
Hut circle
(Yarrows, Hill of)
unnoted.
About 1/3 m. [mile] W. by S. [West by South] of the broch of Yarhouse
on a slight elevation in the moorland is a
hut circle. It is almost circular measuring
interiorly some 20' by 21'. The bank which is
formed of earth & stone measures some 6' - 8'
on base but is spread out for the most part to
several feet more. In height it measures from
1 1/2' to 2'. The entrance is from the E. [East], is 2'.4"
wide and is marked by the existence of
portal stones on either side 2'.9" and 1'.8"
in length, and 1'.4" and 1'.8" high respectively.
The interior is overgrown with heather.
N. [North] of the circle some 30' from the entrance
is a mound lying E [East] and W [West] measuring
some 17' x 13' in length & breadth & 2'.6" in height
[Continued on page 40] |
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[Page] 40
[Continued from page 39]
This is the longer of the two long horned cairns
excavated by Dr [Doctor] Anderson and his description
must be quoted and referred to. In its present
state the cairn is almost unrecognisable.
The walls of the passage have been rebuilt:
the first chamber has been so reduced by building
that its sides are now flush with the passage walls:
one side of the centre chamber has been built
up so as to contain a chimney and the ends
of the inner chamber have been altered and
at the S. [South] side reconstructed. The building
visible in the three excavations along the
cairn is in two cases at least probably modern.
The central excavation may mark the position
of the chamber discovered by Sir Frances Tress
Barry.
To the W. [West] of it nearer the circle there appears to
be another of lesser dimensions.
[Margin] Long horned cairn
Jarrows
(52)
On the top of a ridge about 1/4 m. [mile] to the S. W. [South West]
of the loch of Jarrows are the remains of a
horned long cairn which has been excavated.
[Continued on page 41] |
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[Page] 41
[Continued from page 40]
[Margin] This "passage" has been the back chamber.
[Continued on page 42] |
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[Page] 42
[Continued from page 41]
7th June 1910.
[Margin] Cairn, Site of
O.S. [Ordnance Survey] Picts Ho. [House]
(no 32)
Bicycled to Ackergill. About 1/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West]
of Ackergill Tower are the scanty remains
of a large cairn. No feature of importance
or interest remains about it so thoroughly
has it been demolished.
[Margin] Kitchen Middens
Ackergill.
(unnoted)
Along the shore Northwards from Ackergill
Tower in the hollows among the bents
for about 3/4 m. [mile] are the remains of numerous kitchen
middens and foundations of several
dwellings both circular & rectangular.
One of the former measured 18' in diameter
over all and had a wall, the base of
which remained, 3' in thickness. Such
fragments of pottery as we picked up
were medioeval & parts of green glazed
vessels. Mrs Duff Dunbar has kindly
[Continued on page 43] |
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[Page] 43
[Continued from page 42]
offered to place two workmen at our disposal
on Saturday to excavate this site.
[Opposite Page]
* Another shafted arrow head found at the
same time is in the possession of Mr Henderson
chemist, Fyvie, Aberdeenshire.
[Sketch inserted]
Drawn from memory. --
We
lunched at Ackergill and saw Mrs D-Dunbar's
beautiful collection of flint arrowheads, mostly
from Aberdeenshire. She is the fortunate
possessor of one leaf-shaped arrow head
found at Fyvie which still retains on it
a small portion of the shaft and the ligature
which bound it.* She also showed us a
beautiful Roman glass bottle found in
cutting the track for the Highland Railway,
along with a number of beads, which have
got scattered. The bottle was sold to her by
Syme the naturalist & Antiquary in
Aberdeen, who said he was present when it
was dug up. It is a conical vessel with
a long neck and handle, with diagonal
flutings on the body. She has also
the almost complete remains of three
cinerary urns said to have been found
in low cairns in the vicinity of hut circles
in Aberdeenshire about the Year 1869. An
account of the find she says is in the Proceedings.
[Margin] Ackergill Tower
(5)
Ackergill Tower stands on the coast
some 2 1/2 m. [miles] N. [North] of Wick. The keep
has been considerably altered by the
[Continued on page 44] |
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[Page] 44
[Continued from page 43]
enlarging of the windows and other modifica:
:tions to suit modern requirements and a
large block of building was added to it
when these alterations were effected in 1864?
[Opposite Page]
The original stair to the first floor has been
removed but the wheel stair giving access
from that level to the upper apartments
still exists in the thickness of the wall of
the N.W. [North West] angle. --
The tower is rectangular in plan measuring
48' x 34' in length & breadth, and 68' in height to the top of the
circular turrets which crown the angles at
the roof. These with the battlements were
restored by David Bryce, who also built the
cape house. The basement and first floor
are vaulted. (MacGibbon & Ross's description
of the stair must be checked.) The original
entrance was from the SE [South East]. I expect the
shaft on the right of it was occupied by the
stair leading to the first floor. In the
entrance hall is a built well 25' deep still
containing water. The thickness of the
walls is from 9' to 10'. The stair to the
upper part of the tower is a wheel stair in
the N.W. [North West] corner contained in the thickness of
the wall. There are several old carved
stones from Hempriggs & Girnigoe preserved
in the hall & outside the house which I
must note later on.
8th June 1910.
A glorious day without a cloud
in the sky but with the wind blowing
[Continued on page 45] |
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[Page] 45
[Continued from page 44]
strong as usual to the sorrow of the cyclist.
Returning to Thrumster we first inspected the
broch of Borrowstoun.
[Margin] Borrowstoun Broch.
(18)
In the corner of an arable field some 200 yds. [yards]
S. [South] of Borrowstoun cottage is a grass covered
mound containing the remains of a broch.
The mound over all measures some 114' in
diameter and has an elevation of about 10'.
The upper portion which is circular with a
diameter of 42' and a height of 3', probably
indicates the position of the main structure.
Some 6' above the natural level at the W. [West] end
of the mound is a well marked terrace,
in form of a crescent some 20' in greatest
breadth from the base of the elevated
top. There are no signs of excavation.
[Margin] Brounaben Broch.
(19)
To the W. [West] of the Lybster railway some
200 yds. [yards] N. [North] of Brounaben croft. at the edge
of a cultivated field are the remains of a
broch which has been excavated. The
inner face of the wall has been rebuilt
to an even level of some 5' and the interior
is used as a garden. The main entrance
has been from the E. [East] through a passage
some 14' in thickness the outer end of which
has been removed. There has been no guard
[Continued on page 46] |
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[Page] 46
[Continued from page 45]
chamber nor do any sign of door checks remain.
The interior diameter is [--]. Some 6' N. [North]
of the right wall of the entrance passage is the
back wall of a chamber some 14' in length and 4'.3"
at greatest breadth the entrance to which
from the inner court has been built up.
Some 21' from the inner end of the entrance
passage on the right measured direct has
been the entrance to a stair 3'.6"wide, the
steps of which are still visible, rising to the
right and having a chamber at the foot
of it some 13' in length by 3'.9" in greatest
width. At 18' from the inner end of the
passage on the left measured direct has
been the entrance to another stair also 3'.6" wide
rising to the right and having a chamber
at the foot of it some 17' in length but
now only 2' in width. Opposite the entrance
to this stair from the interior there appears
to have been another entrance from the
exterior now ruined but the E. [East] wall of
which is still distinct. Slightly to the S. [South]
of a point opposite the main entrance
has been the entrance to another chamber now
built up exposed for 17' of its length
and 3'.4" in width. The outer face of the
[Continued on page 47] |
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[Page] 47
[Continued from page 46]
wall of the broch has not been exposed.
[Margin] Cairn
Mr Cole's Castle.
(53)
About 1/4 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of the S. [South] end of the Loch of Yarrows
is a dilapidated chambered cairn which has
been excavated. The chamber is in a ruined
condition. It lies with its main axis E [East] and
W. [West]. At the W [West] end is a compartment measuring
7'.4" in length at present floor level by 7' in width.
A large slab some 6'.3" broad has formed the
back wall and the sides have been built.
Two division stones 1'.10" apart projecting 2'.10"
from either side separate the inner from
the outer compartment. The latter entirely
built and somewhat oval in form has
extended for 15' from the division stones.
[Opposite Page]
11th. July 1910.
Alex Oag, carpenter Thrumster informs me that
about 40 years ago he trenched all the ground in
the vicinity of these stones, that the mound & encircling depression
are due to his work. No sign of an enterment was found.
[Photograph inserted] --
Its breadth has been approximately 7' but
the face of the S. [South] wall is not exposed. A
depression suggests that the entrance has
been by a passage entering the E. [East] division
of the chamber near the middle of the S. [South] side.
The diameter of the cairn along the direction
of the chamber has been 55' and across it 49'.
[Margin] Standing Stones.
(54)
On the top of a ridge about 1/2 m. [mile] E [East] of the
S. [South] end of the Loch of Yarrows are two prominent
standing stones. They stand along the medial
line of a low artificial mound measuring
some 58'.9" by 38'.6" with its longest axis
[Continued on page 48] |
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[Page] 48
[Continued from page 47]
N. [North] and S. [South] and with an elevation of about 3'.
The stone stand some 18'.6" apart and are each some
18' from the respective extremities of the mound.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
54a. The O. S. [Ordnance Survey] records the finding of a Stone cist con:
:taining human remains in this cairn. --
The highest stone is towards the N. [North] and measures some
8'.4" in height above ground, while the other stone
measures 6'5". In horizontal section they are both quad:
:rangular measuring 1'.7" x 11" and 1'.6" x 10".
The stones are placed in line N [North] 18º W [West] and S. [South] 18º E. [East].
The N. [North] stone faces ENE [East North East] and WSW. [West South West] while the
S. [South] stone is set facing almost due N. [North] and S. [South]. Around
the base of the mound is a slight depression
some 3' to 4' broad.
[Margin] Cairn.
(54a)
Some 64' to the SE. [South East] are the remains of an
excavated cairn with a diameter of 40'. It
does not appear to have been chambered.
[Margin] Cairn.
(unnoted)
Some 300 yds [yards] W. [West] of the cairn known as Mr Cole's
Castle is a small excavated cairn of some
27' diameter. It does not appear to have been
chambered.
[Margin] Cairn.
(unnoted)
Some 25 yds. [yards] W. [West] of it has been another also
excavated. It measures some 34' in dia:
:meter. Two slabs exposed near the centre
seem to be parts of a cist.
[Margin] Cairn.
(unnoted)
About 130 W by S. [West by South] of the last are the re:
:mains of another cairn. It also has been
excavated and does not appear to have been
[Continued on page 49] |
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[Page] 49
[Continued from page 48]
chambered. It measures some 28' in diameter.
[Margin] Loch of Yarrows
Hut Circles.
(unnoted)
On a slight knoll sheltered by surrounding
hills some 300 yds. [yards] SSW. [South South West] of the most Southerly point
of the Loch of Yarrows and some 500 yds [yards] SSE [South South East] of
South Yarrows is a hut circle. It is oval in
plan measuring interiorly some 17' x 21' and
has been entered from the S [South]. The interior has
been dug out and the floor is somewhat
below the level of the surrounding ground.
The bank is some 7' in thickness and has been
lined on the interior with large slabs set on
end. Its elevation is some 2'. Immediately
to the left of the entrance in the interior
is a recess in the bank lined with stones
measuring 3' in diameter either way.
A smaller circle with an approximate interior
diameter of 7' is placed contiguous to the
circle on its W. [West] side and seems to have been
entered from the SSW. [South South West] by a passage some
7' in length. Within the interior against
the E [East] wall are two slabs set on edge placed
at rt. [right] angles to each other 2' long and
1'.8" high x 3" thick. Some 31' to
the N [North] of these constructions are the ruins
of another small oval enclosure measuring
interiorly some 6' x 7'. The entrance appears to
[Continued on page 50] |
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[Page] 50
[Continued from page 49]
have been from the W. [West]. The floor is at slightly
lower level than the natural level outside: the
face of the bank appears to have been lined
with stones. From the front of this con:
:struction is visible the outline of a bank or
wall curving round towards the W. [West] side
of the large hut circle above described.
[Margin] Hut circle
(unnoted)
Some 150 yds [yards] SSE [South South East] of the above is another
well defined hut circle. It is oval in plan
and measures interiorly some 23' x 26'. The
entrance is from the E [East] and seems to have been
about 2'.6" wide. The enclosing bank or
wall has been built with stones and
peat and is in places 2'-3' in height. The
building has been exposed in one or two places
otherwise it is overgrown with turf & heather. ^ [caret mark]
[Opposite page]
^ [caret mark] Joined to the hut circle on one side at
the SW. [South West] is a semicircular or horse-
-shoe shaped enclosure measuring some
17' across the chord by 13' in depth. --
Some 40' to the W. [West] are the remains of a small
mound or cairn, which has been excavated.
It measures some 20' in diameter.
[Margin] Cairns of Warehouse
The most northerly of this group of cairns
which were excavated by Mr Rhind about
the year 18 [--] is situated
high up on the face of Warehouse
Hill some 3/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of South Yarrows. It
is chambered with a diameter of some
45'. The chamber has been tripartite.
[Continued on page 51] |
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[Page] 51
[Continued from page 50]
with a total length of some 12'. The entrance
has been from E by N. [East by North] through a passage some
15' in length by 2' in width. The outer compart:
:ment is oval in plan measuring some 4' from
front to back by 5'.4" across. The slabs dividing
it from the middle compartment stand 3'.6" above
present level - project some 3' from either side
and are 1'.6" apart. The middle compartment
measures 4'.8" from front to back by 5'.4"
across. The back compartment is separated
from the last by low division stones about 2'
high and some 2'.7" apart. It measures 2'.2"
from front to back and 4'.8" in breadth.
The back of the chamber is formed of one
large slab and the sides throughout are
built. The whole is much ruined and
no constructional wall is visible on the exterior.
It has an elevation of about 6'.
On the highest point of the hill at an eleva:
:tion of some 616' and some 300 yds. [yards] S. [South] of
the last cairn is another which has also
been excavated. It is now a complete ruin
and the chamber entirely wrecked. Details
of it may be found in the Proceedings.
About 100 yds. [yards] to the E. [East] of the last at an
elevation of some 600' is another chambered
cairn. It has two chambers under separate
[Continued on page 52] |
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[Page] 52
[Continued from page 51]
roofs entered by a passage from the NE. [North East]
12'.6" in length. The roof of the passage remains
entire and also that of
the first chamber into which it enters. Both
are formed of flags. The passage is some 3'
in breadth and is divided into sections some
4' in length by upright supports facing each other 2'.2" apart. Its sides are
built. The first chamber is rectangular on
plan and measures 4'.8" in the direction of the
passage by 5'.7" across. It is from present floor level about 3' in height. A wall only 1'.8" high has
been built between the portals at its outer end.
Opposite the entrance is the doorway to the second
chamber through portals 2'.2" apart. This chamber
is circular with a diameter of 8'.8" and is entirely
built. The height of its wall is still some 5'.
The diameter of the cairn is some 55'.
Lying towards the SE [South East] of the cairn is a large
quadrangular block measuring 9'.8" in
length and 1'.5" x 11" in horizontal section.
Some 300 yds. [yards] ENE. [East North East] of the last are the remains
of another chambered cairn, excavated, and
now ruined. The chamber has been some
15' in total length - the length of the entrance
passage some 17' and the diameter of the
cairn 54' along the direction of the chamber
by 43' across it.
[Continued on page 53] |
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[Continued from page 52]
Some 30' to the NE. [North East] of the last are the remains
of yet another cairn which has been excavated
but which does not appear to have been
chambered. It has had a diameter of
26'.
[Margin] Hill Fort.
Jarhouse.
(unnoted)
On the plateau which forms the top of the
hill above the cliffs some 3/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of
the most southerly point of the Loch of
Yarrows and a short distance to the NW. [North West]
of the highest of the cairns of Warehouse are the remains
of fortifications. Toward the S. [South] end
stretching E [East] and W [West] for a distance of some
120' are remains of a wall overgrown for the
most part with peat & turf and in front of
it on the E [East] half is a ditch some 15' wide
the bottom of which is some 6' below the level
of the top of the scarp. Through this wall
towards the W. [West] end is apparently an en:
:trance some 6' wide but the sides of
which are now indefinite. The wall does
not show in any way above the places where
the cliffs form a natural defence but
elsewhere it is in places recognisable.
In front of the defences at the S. [South] end
is a glacis some 60' wide to the edge
of the plateau which is low in this direction.
[Continued on page 54] |
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[Continued from page 53]
9: June 1910.
[Margin] Watten Par. [Parish]
Standing Stone
(15).
Writing up notes all morning. In
the afternoon bicycled to Loch Watten.
In a field to the W. [West] of Greystones some 40 yds [yards] N. [North] of
the high road is a single standing stone. It is a
pointed boulder 4'.9" in height above ground, roughly
quadrangular, measuring 3' x 2'-2".
10: June 1910.
Bicycled to Wick in the forenoon. Called on
Mr Leith regarding the uprooting of the stone
rows in the Battle Moss & suggested that the
Trustees of the Thrumster Estate might place
the monument in charge of the Office of Works.
Called on Baillie Simpson but did not find him
in. Found Mr Gunn schoolmaster at home
and got information from him regarding
the long cairns at Loch of Yarrows. He tells
me there are three all together and has
arranged to meet me at Thrumster on Monday.
Sir John Sinclair having bidden us all to lunch,
we hired a motor and went to Barrock, where
he had asked a number of people to meet me.
Above the door at Barrock is a coat of arms
brought from Keiss Castle. We visited the
broch excavated by Sir Francis Barry and
a construction in a moss which seems
undoubtedly defensive.
[Continued on page 55] |
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[Continued from page 54]
11th June 1910.
Another beautiful day. Bicycled to
Killimster and met Mr Donald Mackenzie who
had located the "Ring of Killimster or Skitten."
[Margin] Fortified Enclosure
(unnoted)
Situated immediately to the E. [East] of the most N. [North] Westerly
of the Killimster crofts at the edge of a cultivated
field are the remains of a defensive construction.
A slight elevation rising from the moorland has
been encircled with a single rampart of earth
and stone having a ditch outside it. The enclosure
is oval measuring interiorly some 230' from SE [South East] to NW [North West]
by about 200' from NE [North East] to SW [South West]. The rampart
which is now of low elevation measures some
18' in breadth at base while the ditch is about
12' wide and at present level some 3' deep below
the top of the rampart. A break through the
circumvallation towards the SE [South East] has probably
been the entrance. The greater part of the
area is under cultivation but a small
portion on the SE [South East] is still in the moorland.
Many worked flints and chips have been
found on the site.
Returning with Mr Mackenzie to his mother's
croft he showed me several flints he had
picked up on the "Ring" also a pair of very
nice 18. century, wine glasses with white
spirals, which he had bought many years
[Opposite page]
[Sketch inserted of wine glass] --
[Margin] Note. The glasses
referred to were
purchased by me
some ? years later
in Dowells sale
room where I chanced
to find them in
a mixed sale.
I bought the lot
inc. [including] the two mentioned & several others for about 15/- [£0.15.0].
[Continued on page 56] |
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[Continued from page 55]
ago in Tain for 2/6 [£0.2.6] each. The collection of this
retired excise-man, ranging from mamoth ivory
to wine glasses, is kept in wooden chests, some
at one place some at another, each specimen
carefully rolled up in brown paper & tied in a
parcel. In his lodgings at Bonar Bridge he
has nothing exposed of any taste whatever
except a small collection of books and yet
he is an omnivorous collector. He is a man
of unusual intelligence.
[Margin] Wester Broch
(O.S. [Ordnance Survey] Castle Linglas)
(24)
Leaving Killimster we bicycled N. [North] to Keiss
Links. Situated at the S. [South] end of Keiss Links
just within the fringe of sand hills that
border the shore and about 1/2 N. [North] of the [1?] Water
of Wester is the Wester broch. It has been
excavated by the late Sir Francis Tress Barry
and described and illustrated. It is entered
from the WNW. [West North West] through a passage now for
the greater part built up 13' in length, 3 1/2 wide
at the exterior end and 2'.7" at the interior. At
9' from the outer end are door checks where
the passage narrows. The interior diameter
is 27'. At 22' to the left measured direct
from the inner extremity of the entrance
and at a height of 3' above the floor level
is the entrance to the stair 2 1/2 wide rising to
[Continued on page 57] |
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[Page] 57
[Continued from page 56]
[Opposite page]
On the links between the broch and the road the primula Scottie is growing. --
the right. At the foot of the stairs is a chamber
not now visible 9 1/2 in length, 3' in width and
roofed at the end. At 30' to 40' from the base
of the tower are the remains of a wall of
circumvallation visible for a considerable
distance on the NW [North West] and SW [South West] sides and believed
to encircle it. Between this wall and the
broch on the front or entrance side
are the remains of eight or nine small
cells or outbuildings. The greatest height
of wall in the interior is abiut 5'.6" and
of that exposed on the exterior about 2'.
The thickness of the wall varies from 13' - 14'.
The objects found included whetstones, circular
discs of slaty stone, querns, a large long handled
bone comb and three quartzite pebbles of
ovoid shape painted on their surfaces with
spots in a blackish or blackish brown
pigment. In the sand on the top
of the wall of the broch were found four
cists containing skeletons st full length.
[Margin] Broch
Keiss Links
(70)
On the summit of a sandy hillock about
100 yds. [yards] N [North] of the Wester Broch are apparent
the ruins of a stucture possibly a broch.
Returning towards Ackergill I joined
Cree who was busy superintending the
[Continued on page 58] |
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[Page] 58
[Continued from page 57]
excavation of a hut circle in a Sandy hollow.
The diameter is some 20'. - The entrance from SE. [South [East]
about 3' wide: the walls built of stone: and
the floor all over neatly paved with flags. The
interior has been in part out at the back.
There is a small recess in the wall on the
right of the doorway - the sand in which is
much discoloured for a depth of nearly 2' or more
& contains fragments of charcoal. Few relics
of any kind, even shells & bones lay within the
hut but to the N. [North] of it is a large kitchen
midden still to be examined. From the surface
of it Mrs Duff Dunbar picked up a nice bone
pin with a T shaped head.
13th June 1910.
A wet morning. Before lunch walked
to Bilbster to inspect a mound Cree had
drawn my attention to on Sunday evening.
[Margin] Broch Bilbster
(unnoted)
On a low lying meadow on the left bank of the
Wick River and some 300 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of road bridge
to the N. [North] of Bilbster House & some 30 yds [yards] from the river is a grassy hillock.
It has been under cultivation and has now
an elevation of only 3' or 4' but its artificial
character is obvious. The diameter over all
is some 94'. There is a hollow or depression
on the top some 38' in diameter. The level
of the field all around the hillock is low.
[Continued on page 59] |
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[Page] 59
[Continued from page 58]
[Margin] Cairn
(45)
Fairy Hillock. From the marshy ground on the
right bank of the Wick river about 1 1/4 above Wick
there rises a natural hillock known as the
Fairy Hillock. Its general direction is E and W. [East and West]
and on the W. [West] and highest end there has been a
small cairn some 30' in diameter. It has been
excavated and one large slab measuring super:
:ficially some 4'.6" X 3' less exposed in the interior.
[Margin] Hempriggs House.
This house which lies some 2 1/2 m. [miles] to the
S. [South] of W. [Wick] is said to have been erected in 1692.
The original roof was blown off in a great gale in 1807
and it has been so altered and modernised
that it now presents no features of interest.
The lintel from the front door is preserved
at Ackergill and bears the legend: CERI -
MANI - MEMENTO - MANE. There also is the armorial
tablet which surmounted it. The coat may be
blazoned thus: A shield parte per pale.
Dexter. 1st and 4th A lion rampant for Dunbar
2nd and 3rd three cushions within a double tressure
for Randolph - on an inescutcheon the Nova
Scotia badge. of baronetcy - Sinister 1st and 4th
the Sinclair Galley. 2nd and 3rd a lion rampant
over all a cross engrailed. Supporters
a lion and a savage holding a club
above. a knights helmet with a sword
Continued on page 60] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-60 |
[Page] 60
[Continued from page 59]
and key saltirewise for crest. Beneath the
shield & in cursive letters - 17 B.D. I.S. 05.
The lintel of the dining room fireplace also
at Ackergill bears the date of 1692 and the interwined
monogram of William Dunbar and his wife
W.D. I.S.
Returning to Wick from Hempriggs I called on
ex-baillie Simpson to inspect a font he has.
[Margin] Font
from St. Ninians chapel.
It lies in the garden of Fernbank Villa and is
said to have come from the site of St. Ninian's
chapel in the High St. Wick. It is a block
of sandstone some 2' square with the angles
roughly chamfered. The basin is circular with
a diameter of 1'.7" and depth of 10". The thickness
of the block is 1'. There are in the garden
a number of knocking stones & querns etc.
Two of the former are almost identical in size
with the so-called font at Strikoke!
[Opposite page]
[Sketch of quern inserted]
There is a quern of micaceous schist which
was found many feet below the surface
when the foundations of the post office in Wick
were being dug. It is peculiar in having a
protuberance or handle cut from the solid
projecting horizontally from the edge of the upper stone
some 2" or 3".
[Continued on page 61] |
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[Page] 61
[continued from page 60]
14th June 1910.
[Margin] Keiss Broch
(25)
Immediately to the N. [North] of the harbour of Keiss
on a beach terrace, now overgrown with grass.
It has been excavated by the late Sir Frances Tress
Barry and planned & described. It has been entered
from the Sea-ward side. Both sides of the passage
are gone but there are remains of the floor of a
guard chamber on the right. The interior diameter
is 38' and the thickness of the wall about 12'.
Against the lower part of the inner face is
an inner wall or scarcement 1'.3" thick and
still remaining to a height about 5' on the N. [North].
This reduces the interior diameter to some 35'.6" at
floor level. The general average height of wall
remaining in the interior is about 5' and
the greatest height, (towards the N [North]) 8'.
At 24' round the inner circumference to the
left of the entrance is the entrance to a stair
in the thickness of the wall at a height of
3'.6" above the general floor level. This entrance
is 2'.10" wide. The stair is 2'.8" wide but most
of the steps are no concealed by the debris. Five steps
were discovered on excavation leading down
to a water hole below the level of the entrance
but they are not now visible. On the
Opposite side of the broch there has been
another stair way with a chamber at the
[Continued on page 62] |
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[Continued from page 61]
foot of the stair now built up. The stair rose
at the right & was 3'.4" wide. The entrance to
this stairway had been at one time been part of a
main entrance through the exterior part of the
wall which had been built up and the scarce:
:ment built in front of it. On the outside lies
a large triangular block of stone which may have
formed the lintel of the doorway. The greatest
height of wall remaining on the exterior is 5' - 6'.
Within the interior are the remains of various
small enclosures formed of flags set on
end. Immediately outside the closed entrance
on the NE [North East] are the remains of an outer wall and
at 16' back from the broch the face of a wall
concentric with the main structure has been
exposed for a distance of some 24' and is
visible passing onwards round the building
towards the S. [South]. The interspace in front of
the closed entrance is paved.
Among the relics found were some fragments
of Roman "Samian" ware, & a few pieces of
coarse unglazed pottery decorated with an
impressed chevrony pattern, a small crucible
7/8" in depth with a portion of melted bronze
adhering to the bottom, a long handled bone
comb 5 1/2" in length, a lamp of sandstone
[Continued on page 63] |
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[Page] 63
[Continued from page 62]
measuring 5 1/4 X 4 1/4 inches, a rudely shaped cup
of sandstone measuring 4 1/2 X 4 1/2 in length & breadth
and 2" in depth, saddle querns and portions of
rotary querns, antlers of the red-deer of great size
and bones of the Great Auk.
[Margin] Broch at the
white gate
(26)
On the same terrace at the distance of less than
1/4 m. [miles] to the northward and about [--] distance
from the shore is another broch which has also
been excavated and is referred to in the account
of the excavation as the Broch at the White Gate.
It is entered from the seaward direction by a
passage direct through the wall some 13' in
length, 2'.6" wide at the exterior and 3'.6" wide
at the interior opening. At 3'.8" inward
from the exterior are rebates for a door
6" deep on either side of the passage and
at a distance of 5'.6" further in are a pair of
checks projecting 8" on either side. The interior
diameter is 26'. At a distance of 12'
round the inner circumference from the
the end of the passage to the left a break
in the wall probably marked the entrance
to the stairway and almost opposite the
main entrance 2' above the floor level
a secondary chamber about 7' in diameter
has been partly formed on the wall.
[Continued on page 64] |
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[Page] 64
[Continued from page 63]
Two partitions one formed of flags set on end
set some distance apart and the other of slabs
set on edge in the floor crossed the area of
the broch from the entrance to the back. These walls
are 8' apart and midway between them nearly
in the centre of the interior is a cist like cavity
some 2 1/2' square. At short distance on one
side are erect slabs set edgewise to the main
wall. In the NE. [North East] side of the interior face of the
main wall there is a recess or aumbry
2' sq [square] at a height of about 3 1/2' from the floor.
The wall of the broch only remains visible to a
height of about 3'. The entrance passage
is prolonged outwards through a series
of secondary buildings containing four
irregularly shaped chambers. In a
rectangular enclosure of upright slabs against
the inner face of the wall of the broch to the left of the entrance
were found the fragments of a large
jar of coarse unglazed pottery which when
reconstructed measured 17" in height by 17 1/2"
in diameter at the mouth, tapering to 7" in
diameter at base. The only other objects
found were a few grain rubbers & portions of
rotary querns.
[Margin] The Road Broch
Keiss
(27)
Situated in a field close to the public road
[Continued on page 65] |
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[Page] 65
[Continued from page 64]
from Keiss to John O'Groats on the W. [West] side is
the broch excavated by Sir Francis Barry and
known as "the Road Broch." The broch and
associated outbuildings occupy a large area
enclosed within a massive encircling wall, and
having a diameter of 144 ft. [feet] The broch itself
is entered from the NE. [North East] through an entrance
2'.6" wide at the outside going straight through
the wall for a distance of 15'.9" and increasing
in width from the inner side of the checks to
3'.2" at the opening into the interior. At a distance
of 7' inwards from the outside there are checks
for a door formed of slabs 4'.7" in height set edgewise in the passage
walls. On the right side and 2 1/2' behind the
checks is the entrance to a guard chamber
2' wide and 3' high. The chamber itself is
ruined and unenterable. No part of the roof
remains on the passage. The interior area
measures 34' in diameter and there is no
scarcement. The wall has a total thickness
varying from 13'.9" to 15'.9" but the original
wall appears to have been only about 12'
thick and a casing wall varying from about
2' to 3'.9" in thickness has been added
on the exterior. At 20' round the
inner circumference from the left of the
[Continued on page 66] |
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[Page] 66
[Continued from page 65]
main entrance is the entrance to the stair now
built up and the wall on the W. [West] side of it is in a
very ruinous condition. There is a chamber at
the foot of the stair to the left, 12' in length by
5' in width. The stair ascends to the right
4' within the wall and is 4' wide. The steps
of which twelve were disclosed on excavation are
now obscured by debris. Nearly opposite the
main entrance on the interior circumference
is a chamber in the wall the entrance to
which is now partly built up. It was entered
through a rectangular aperture cut in
a large slab which formed the front. The size
of this chamber was found to be 4'.6" in length
by 3'.9" in width and 4'.7" in height. At a
distance of 24' round the inner circumference
to the right of the main entrance is the
entrance to another stair also ascending to
the right. The stairway is 3'.6" wide and
on excavation eleven steps were exposed.
At the foot of the stair was a chamber now
filled in extending for 30' along the centre
of the wall and measuring 4'.6" in width
at floor level. There has been at one time
an entrance to the exterior through the wall
at the foot of the stair 3'.9" wide. In the
[Continued on page 67] |
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[Page] 67
[Continued from page 66]
centre of the interior is an underground chamber
with steps down to it and covered with slabs.
It is 5' long by 3' wide and 5'.6" deep and
partly cut out of the rock on one side. There
are also two tanklike constructions formed of
slabs set on edge in the floor one of which measures
3' in length by 2' 4" in width and 1'.6" in depth; and
the other 3'.2" in length by 2'.9" in width & 1'.6" in
depth. The interior court is subdivided into four
sections by secondary partitions of slabs
set on edge. The greatest height of wall
visible in the interior is about 7'.
In front of the main entrance there has
been added a circular court with a diameter
of about 33', the wall of which is partially
founded on the lower courses of the addition
to the thickness of the wall of the broch
and partially on an accumulation of debris
2 1/2' high. Between the broch and the
outer enclosing wall iscontained a
number of outbuildings.
Among the relics recovered from the
excavation were found some pieces of
coarse unornamented pottery, a portion
of an armlet of shale, a long handled
comb with five prongs at the toothed end
[Continued on page 68] |
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[Page] 68
[Continued from page 67]
a small bronze ring, a flattish circular disc
of sandstone 1 1/2" in diameter and 5/8" in thickness
having slightly incised markings suggestive of
an attempted inscription on both of its flat
sides and on one side the figure of a bird,
a lamp of stone, a stone cup with side handle,
saddle and rotary querns, two moulds
for ingots 4" and 5" in length respectively and
two socket stones for the pivots of doors.
Among the food refuse were bones of the ox,
sheep or goat and swine; portions of red-deer
horns, charred grain, and a single canine
tooth of a bear (ursus arctos)
[Margin] Keiss Castle.
(6)
On the N. [North] side of Sinclair Bay near the
modern house of Keiss and on a projecting rock above the shore stand the ruins of
Keiss Castle. The NE [North East] angle which contained
the entrance has gone as also all the upper
floors. In plan the castle is oblong measur:
:ing 27'.3" by 23'.6" over the walls having
two round projecting towers one to seaward
at the SE. [South East] angle and the other which has
contained the staircase to the W [West] at the
NW [North West] angle. the N. [North] face of the latter being flat
and in line with the N [North] wall of the castle.
The basement is vaulted and the walls
3'.3" in thickness. The castle is lofty with
[Continued on page 69] |
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[Page] 69
[Continued from page 68]
four storeys and an attic. The corbel
mouldings which support a small turret
carrying the stair from the 2nd floor to the roof
projecting from the N. [North] wall are relieved
with a chequer ornament and similar
enrichment is seen on the frame of a window
in the upper storey facing the S.W. [South West]
The details are those pertaining to the end
of the 16th or beginning of the 17th century.
A shield charged with the Sinclair arms
removed from the castle is built into the
wall above the front door of Barrock House.
Bicycling on to Auckingill I made the
acquaintance of John Nicholson whom
I found possessed of much valable in:
:formation. He lent me several sketch
plans of constructions exposed by Sir F.
Barry at Ackergill Links most of which
contained interments. Some of these were
rectangular in plan, the outline marked with
stones set on edge and having upright stones
at the corners and in the centre of each side.
[Margin] Ackergill Links.
The resemblance to the constructions at
Blarich, near Rogart known as "Letties
grave" is very close.
[Margin] Thuster broch.
A stone cup with a side handle was
found in the field beside this broch and
[Continued on page 70] |
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[Page] 70
[Continued from page 69]
given by Nicholson to Sir F. Barry.
[Margin] Memo
Latheron Mains -
George Williamson, farmer, Latheron Mains.
has the missing portion of a sculptured stone
found by John Nicholson and now in the National
Museum. There is a celtic cross in front
of the Byre.
[Margin] [Sharrery] Chapel
William Fraken has two cup-marked stones of very
peculiar form which he dug up. Close to the chapel is a broch.
Nicholson has a reconstructed jug with a
handle of coarse dark coloured earthenware
recovered in pieces from the site of a lake
dwelling in Alterwal loch, Bower parish.
Returning to Ackergill I found Cree at
the hut circle which had been excavated
under his directions. He has full details
& measurements.
15th June 1910.
Dunbeath Castle. By invitation
of Mrs Alexander Sinclair we spent the day
at Dunbeath. We took the train to Lybster
& were there met by her motor. The day was
absolutely perfect and the sea beneath a
cloudless sky looked as blue as the Medi:
:terranean. The road for the most part runs
along near the cliffs that fringe the shore
at times dipping down by rather terrifying
gradients to cross he bottom of a glen.
[Continued on page 71] |
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[Page] 71
[Continued from page 70
Near Latheronwheel there is a fair amount of
timber by the roadside and Dunbeath is one of
the few estates in the country on which any planting
has been done.
[Opposite page] Drawing of a castle
Dunbeath from a drawing by [--] Henderson dated
1830 - lent to me by Miss Henderson Ormelie Lodge, Thurso.
See also Daniell's coloured print.
[Margin] Dunbeath Castle.
(7)
Dunbeath Castle stands on the landward end of a
narrow promontory, projecting seaward, about 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of
the village of Dunbeath and 12 m. [miles] N. [North] of Helmsdale.
In plan the castle is oblong with a frontage of 62'
and a breadth of 25'. The walls of that part of
the structure containing the present entrance hall
and the chamber to the left which has been the
kitchen of the castle, are from 9' to 10' in thickness
and probably represent an erlier keep in:
:corporated in the present building which dates
from about the year 1600. At the corners
of the upper part of the structure are small
roofed turrets except at the [--] where the
turret has been removed.
[Margin] see photo
The frontage
is relieved with two semicircular turrets rising
from the 1st floor and terminating in square
? gabled dormers. In the thickness of the back
wall opposite the present entrance a secret stair
1'.3" wide goes upwards from the basement.
The hoods above two small wiindows
on the 2nd floor in the front turret bear armorial
shields each charged with what appears
[Continued on page 72] |
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Gaps in text. |
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[Page] 72
[Continued from page 71
to be a lion rampant (the head of which in each
case is, however, gone) and beneath the letters C.M.
The section of the original moat in part cut out of
the rock is visible on the face of the cliff over
which the roadway passes immediately in front
of the entrance. A large modern addition
has been built in the rear of the house. The
corbel moulding beneath the turrets in the
frontage are finely enriched with carving.
[Margin] This is in the
museum in
Edinr [Edinburgh]
I forgot to enquire about the yett which is
said to be perserved. I must enquire about it
hereafter. Mrs Sinclair sent us the whole
way home in her motor.
16th June 1910.
[Margin] Watten.
Broch Spittal
(11)
To the ENE [East North East] of Spital Quarries and 250 yds. [yards]
E [East] of Spital farm in the corner of an arable field
is a grass covered mound evidently covering
the ruins of a broch. It measures some 80' in
diameter and some 6' to 7' in elevation. The
top shows a depression some 34' in diameter
and some 4' to 5' in depth.
[Margin] Broch
Knockglass
(20)
About 150 yds. [yards] to the ENE [East North East] of Knockglas farm
house rising from an arable field is a conical
grass covered mound containing the ruins of a
broch. It measures in diameter some 120' from
E to W. [East to West] and some 95' from N to S. [North to South] and in
[Continued on page 73] |
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[Page] 73
[Continued from page 72]
elevation some 12' to 13'. It has been broken into from a short
distance on the NE. [North East].
[Margin] Standing stone
Halsary
(23)
Some 2 1/4 m. [miles] S. [South] of Mybster Inn and about 100 yds [yards]
E [East] of the road to Lybster is a large grey schistone
slab, now split vertically into three portions and
facing N by W [North by West] and S by E. [South by East]. It measures 4'.7" in
height, 3'.6" in breadth near the upper end and 2'.9"
at base. It has been about 1'.5" in thickness.
[Margin] Standing stone
Halsary.
(24)
About 1/4 m [mile] S. [South] the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] marks another standing
stone. On the spot are two stones either or neither
of which may have been a standing stone. That
nearest the road is round pillar measuring about
1'.6" in diameter and protruding about 1' above
ground and visible for other 10" below the ground
level. The second stone is lying almost horizon:
:tally some 35' to the E. [East]. It is 3'.10" in length,
2'.11" in breadth and 4" in thickness.
[Margin] Halkirk
Achkeepsta
(74S)
To the N. [North] of this croft where the site of standing
stones is indicated there appears to be a demolished
cairn. it has had a diameter of some 25' and is
now practically reduced to ground level. Among
the stones I flushed a brood of young grouse able
to fly!
Calling on Murray Threipland's keeper he took
me to see some small green mounds on the
moor near Toftingall loch. They appeared to
be the remains of small turf structures now
[Continued on page 74] |
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[Page 74
[Continued from page 73]
now formless. One about 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] Of Toftingal Loch.
I measured by I suspect it has been a kiln.
The standing stone (56) in front of Mybster
Inn is a natural ice borne boulder of no
archaeological interest.
[Margin] Broch.
Mybster
(21.)
About 1/2 m. [mile] W. [West] Of Mybster Inn on the S. [South] side
of the road to Westerdale is a large grass covered
mound in the corner of a field concealing the
remains of a broch. From E to W. [East to West] it measures
135' in diameter and from N. to S. [North to South] 123'. Its
elevation is about 12'.. The mound has been
considerably broken into and much of it re:
:moved from the NE [North East] side.
[Opposite Page]
[Sketches inserted]
At the house of a crofter at Mybster I saw
a small iron hand mill. A drum with
diagonal flutings was turned within an iron
casing fixed by a spike into the ground.
The diameter of the mill was about 10".
I found globe flowers Troillus Europaeus
growing all over the broch near Spital Mains.
17 June 1910.
Another glorious day. Bicycled to Thrumster
& after visiting Battle Moss met Mr Gunn,
schoolmaster from Wick at the horned cairns.
[Margin] Cairn Sites
Brounston
About 1/4 m. [mile] NNW. [North North West] of Brounaben on a slight
heather covered elevation between two grass
fields is the site of a long cairn. The
[Continued on page 75] |
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[Page] 75
[Continued from page 74]
cairn has been almost entirely removed but a
low ridge appears to mark its outline. It seems
to have been about 170' in length,lying with
its main axis E. and W. [East and West] and to have been
50 broad at the E [East] end and some 33' at the W. [West]
There are no indications of horns.
[Margin]
Ormiegill cairn.
(56)
To the N. [North] of the hill of Ulbster about 1/2 m. [mile] N by W [North by West]
of Ulbster Mains and close beside the road
leading from Borrowston thereto is the horned chambered
cairn of Ormiegill. It was excavated by Dr [Doctor]
Joseph Anderson and described by him as
being at that time 66' in length with an
extreme width of nearly the same extent. From
the E [East] end horns expanded, till they are nearly
50' apart & 30' in length from the W. [West] till they were 37'
apart, & also 30' in length Those at the E. [East] being 8' broad at the top
& those at the W. [West] 9' broad. A double wall
of construction faced only to the outside, defined
the whole exterior outline of the structure
and a circular wall, 80' in circumference,
surrounded the chamber. The passage opened
from the middle of the concavity between
the horns at the E [East] end. It was10' long, and
2' wide and seemed to have been lintelled over
The chamber was tripartite. The first com:
:partment measured 3' by 4'.10", the second 8' by 6 1/2'
[Continued on page 76] |
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[Continued from page 75]
and the third about 5' by 2'.3". A quantity of bones
of human beings & animals lay mingled on the floor
among which were recognised about 30 fragments of
skulls believed to be those of different individuals.
The bones were irregularly burned some being merely
charred. The relics found consisted of fragments
of pottery, portions of round bottomed vessels of thin
dark coloured, hard smooth paste, without
ornament, a great quantity of chips & flakes of flint
a finely polished hammer of grey granite 4" in
length pierced with a hole for a handle, a flint
arrow head of triangular form, a flint knife
several flakes of flint serrated on one side and
a number of scrapers. The cairn is now
in an almost complete state of dilapidation.
The partition stones between the chambers still
remain erect and on the S. [South] side of the
central compartment a small portion of
the original walling is visible.
[Margin]
Hut circles
& mounds
Ormiegill
(57 & 58)
On either side of the road that leads from
Borrowston to the Mains of Ulbster
round the base of Ulbster Hill on the North
is a group of hut circles & mounds. They
are scattered over a distance of some 400 yds. [yards]
and lie to the S.SE [South South East] of the Ormiegill chambered
cairn. The mounds are about a
[Continued on page 77] |
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[Page] 77
[Continued from page 76.]
score in number. They measure from 15' to 20'
in diameter and 2' to 3' in elevation. Some have
been excavated but no cists are exposed.
On the E. [East] side of the road near the upper end
of the group is a hut circle the bank of which
is much broken down. Interiorly it has
measured some 18' by 22'and has been sur:
:rounded by a bank or wall 4' to 5' in thickness.
The entrance has been from the SSE. [South South East] and two
large stones placed with their broad faces parallel
still mark its position. These stones are about
1'.10" apart; 1'.2" high and 1'.4" in length.
A single stone laid between them forms a sill.
Some 40 yds. [yards] S. [South] are the indistinct remains
of another hut circle which has been partially
destroyed by the road and some 200 yds [yards]
further on the partial outline of another is
visible which has a diameter of some
24'. These are the first as:
:sociated mounds and hut circles I have
seen in the county. The mounds seem
identical in construction with those
of Sutherland and the hut circles are
of the simple form.
18th June 1910.
Another fine day. Engaged all forenoon
writing up notes.
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[Continued from page 77]
20 June 1910.
A stormy day. Bicycled west to Banniskirk.
[Margin] Church Site.
(70).
To the S.E. [South East] of the farm buildings at Banniskirk
close to the old hill road & to the W. [West] of it is a
slight elevation said to mark the site of the
church. No building is visible. The
old road over the hills to this place from Dunn
is quite unfit for bicycling & we had to walk
most of the way. By a road but little better
we made our way to Achelone &sought out
Gunn, Colonel Murray Threipland's ground
officer who showed me where he had located
a ring of large stones.
[Margin] Cairn Achanarras Hill
(unnoted).
On the N. [North] end of Achanarras Hill about 1/2 m [mile]
NNW. [North North West] of Achanarras Farm is a low heather clad
mound which is probably a cairn. It measures
in diameter some 33' from N to S. [North to South] by 30' from
E to W [East to West] and in elevation 2' to 3'.
[Margin] Stone circle
Achanarras Hill
(unnoted)
On the N. [North] end of Achanarras Hill a little more
than half a mile NW [North West] of Achanarras Farm
house are the remains of a stone circle
surrounding a low stony mound with a dia [diameter] of some 60' & elevation ^ [caret mark]
[Margin] ^ [caret mark] just exceeding
2' are
five large blocks each around 6' in length
varying from 2'. 9" to 4'. 6" in breadth by
about 1' in thickness, each slightly tapering
to one end. They are all prostrate and
as all lie with their longest axes along the
line of the circumference presumably they
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[Continued from page 78]
originally stood at right angles to it. There
is a slight depression in the centre of the
mound which may imply that it has been ex:
:cavated.
[Opposite Page]
[Sketch inserted with scale]
10 -- 5 -- 0 -- 5 -- 10 -- 20
Plan of Stone Circle. Achanarras Hill.
Halkirk Parish --
[Margin] Cairn.
Achanarras Hill
(unnoted)
Some 40 yds [yards] W. [West] of the stone circle on Achanarras
Hill is a low mound overgrown with mossy
turf which appears to be a cairn. Its limits
are indefinite but it appears to measure in
diameter some 43' from E to W [East to West] by 56'
from N. to S. [North to South]
[Margin] Broch.
Achanarras
(49.)
To the NW [North West] of Achanarras Hill and some 1/2
m. [mile] NE [North East] of Achies farm buildings, is a large
grassy mound covering the ruins of a broch.
Over all the mound measures about 150' in
diameter and its greatest elevation is some
12' to 14'. Above a steep scarp some 6' to
8' above the field level a terrace varying from
12' to 20' in breadth encircles the mound
from the centre of which rises the upper portion
of the mound with a diameter of about 76'.
On the summit is a circular depression
with a diameter of about 28' and a depth
of about 5'. The mound has been to a
small extent dug into from the SE [South East]
[Margin] Achanarras Hill.
Cairn (The Saltman)
50)
At the N. [North] end of Achanarras Hill at
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[Continued from page 79]
an elevation of about 300 ft [feet] and some [--] yds. (yards)
W by N. [West by North] of Achanarras Farm is a small cairn
It measures some 30' in diameter and 3' in
elevation. A slight depression in the top
suggests that it may have been excavated.
[Opposite Page]
[Photographs inserted]
Broch Achanarras Hill (49)
Stone Circle Achanarras Hill
[Margin] Broch
Achanarras
(51)
To the N. [North] of Achanarras farm steading and
bounding the midden are the remains of a
broch. The grassy mound which represents the
ruin is some 25' in diameter and 4' in elevation.
[Margin] ?Chapel of St Magnus
(Spittal)
(69)
Some 250 yds [yards] NW. [North West] of Spittal Farm are the
ruins of the chapel of St Magnus. The building
is in a very ruinous condition. Interiorly it
has measured some 65' x 19' with walls some
3' .4" in thickness. The E [East] gable still stands to
a height of about 12' and the side walls average
6' - 8' in height. At the E [East] end of the N. [North] wall is
a round arched recess rising from the floor
6' across base by 1'.9" in depth. The entrance
has been through the S. [South] wall near its
W. [West] end. There are no decorative features visible
The interior is overgrown with nettles and the
adjoining graveyard is in a very neglected
condition.
[Margin] Broch
Spittal
(54)
About 1/4 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of Spittal Farm a grassy
mound rising from an arable field con:
:ceals the ruins of a broch. Its extent has
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[Continued from page 80]
been much reduced and it now measures some
60' from E to W [East to West] by 40' from N to S [North to South] in diameter
and 6'-8' in height. A trench has been dug
through it towards the E [East] end exposing two
jambs covered by a lintel probably a portion of the entrance passage.
[Margin] Broch
Spittal
(53)
Some 250 yds [yards] E [East] of Spittal Farm are the remains
of a grassy mound which has evidently covered
a broch. Some 2/3 of it have been carted away
and the remains are now unimportant.
From Spittal we bicycled to Georgemas Junction
& trained to Wick.
21st June 1910.
Bicycled to Mybster.
[Margin] Hut circle
Achlachan Moss
(unnoted)
A mile and a half W. [West] of Mybster Inn
on the N. [North] side of the road to Westerdale and
some 20 yds. [yards] distant from it are the remains
of a hut circle. It has been circular with
an interior diameter of about 12' surrounded
by a bank or wall some 4'.6" in thickness.
The inner outline of the bank is marked
by large stones placed end to end a foot
or so apart and a similar arrangement
appears to have characterised the outer circum:
:ference which, however, is much overgrown with
grass. The entrance has probably been from
the S W. [South West] but the bank in that direction has
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[Continued from page 81]
been broken down.
[Margin] Broch
Achlachan Moss
(13)
At the S. [South] end of Achlachan Moss and about
1/2 m [mile] ESE [East South East] of Dale Farm a grass covered
circular mound or ring covers the remains
of a broch. The diameter over all from E to W. [East to West]
is some 69' and from N to S. [North to South] 74'. and the
elevation varies from 4' to 6' . The interior
depression measures some 35' across and
is from 4' to 5' deep. Certain depressions
on the top of the mound may indicate the
positions of chambers. There are no indications of outworks,
[Margin]
Broch
Achlachan Moss
(24a)
Within 300 yds [yards] of the last to the Northward
are the remains of another broch whose position
has been fortified to a remarkable extent.
[Opposite page]
[Photograph inserted]
Broch. Achlachan Moss. (24a)
A grassy mound rising some 6' - 7' in height
above the surrounding level is cut off from
the moorland passing S. [South] from NE to SW, [north East to South West] by a ditch
varying from 60' to 66' in width. Crowning
the scarp has been a wall or rampart
forming a parapet still some 3' - 4' in height
on the inside and 9' to 10' in elevation above
the bottom of the ditch. Above the counter:
:scarp has also been a mound now some
12' to 14' wide at the base and apparently
separated from the edge of the ditch for
the greater part of its length by a burn some
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[Continued from page 82]
7' in width. ^ [caret mark]
[Opposite page]
^ [caret mark] Its greatest height is some 7' above the bottom
of the ditch. --
Between the parapet and the
central mound which covers the buildings is
a level area some 15' to 20' in breadth except
on the W [West] where it appears to have been broken
down. The central mound measures some
86' from N. to S. [North to South] by 73' from E to W. [East to West] and has
an elevation above the level area at its base of
from 6' to 7'. There has been an approach
and entrance through the rampart from
the NW. [North West] The top of the mound is pitted with
numerous depressions and a portion of it has
been removed at some time on the E. [East]
Beyond the ends of the ditch the surrounding
ground is still in places marshy and the
numerous sheep drains suggest that in former
times it was more so.
This broch presents a striking contrast
to its neighbour in the character and extent
of its defences. A remarkable feature
about the former is also the apparent
absence of stone or rather ruins in the interior.
[Margin] Dale Dovecot
(unnoted)
At the end of the old abandoned garden
to the S. [South] of Dale House near the village
of Westerdale is an ancient dovecot
of the beehive or circular type. It
is built in four storeys with an elevation
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
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[Continued from page 83]
of some 17'.6" and a diameter over all at
base of 16'. The wall is 2'.10" in thickness. The
interior is lined with the usual stone nests and
there is an aperture at the top for the egress
& ingress of the pigeons. The building is in
rather a ruinous state.
The older part of the house of Dale is
evidently Georgian. There are few trees
near it and except for a shooting lodge it
does not seem attractive. A couple
of hundred yards to the N. [North] of the house
is the burial ground of the Budges of Toftin:
:gale. It is enclosed by a high wall which
I climbed. Within it nothing but a crop of
nettles was visible. At Westerdale
I called on the Rev. [Reverend] Angus Mackay, Free
Church Minister. He told me of a small
stone circle near Dirlot Castle and of a
standing Stone near Tullochans. In his
possession is a long polished celt, (by memory some 8" to 9" in length) broken across.
pierced at one end with a hole about 1/2" in dia. [diameter].
From Westerdale we rode on to Hoy to catch
the train arriving just in time as the rain
began to fall heavily.
22nd June 1910.
A thoroughly wet morning and a mist
that obscures everything beyond 100 yds. [yards] Wrote
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[Page] 85
[Continued from page 84]
up notes in the forenoon and as it cleared in the
afternoon I bicycled into Wick. There I called at
the U.F. [United Free] Manse at Pulteney town to see the
font which Mrs Duff Dunbar told me of, saying
it was that of St. Fergus Church. The
font lies in the garden at the side of
the house and is used for growing flowers
in. In external shape it is octagonal
measuring some 2'.3" in diameter over all by 1'.2"
in height. Each face 7" wide bears a pointed shield
while a half round vertical moulding 3" across separates
them at the angles. The shields do not appear
to have been charged. The basin, which is circu:
:lar measures 1'.5" in diameter and 10" in depth.
The edge for a depth of 4" round one half has
gone and on the opposite side a similar portion is detached.
This font bears a strong resemblance to
that at Durness Church. As a font was
said to have been removed from that church
to Wick many years ago I must find out
if this is not it.
Called on Mr Beaton & got information
regarding a tombstone in St. Peters Thurso. etc.
In Wick there appear to be only two old
houses left. One in the Parliament Square
known as the Parliament House has a
[Continued on page 85a] |
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[Page 85a]
[Continued from page 85]
[Sketch inserted]
Mr Walker Episc [Episcopal] Minister Trail St Thurso House
can show me stones
[Continued on page 85b] |
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[Page] 85b
[Continued from page 85a]
2, THE COLLEGE,
GLASGOW
Font at central U.F. [United Free] Manse Wick
The font is supposed to have come
from old chapel ofof St. Fergus
at Wick.
In 1840 the font was found by the Parish minister of Wick in the
Glebe farm yard used as a
trough, and for sharpening
knives. He purchased it from the heritors
& from his widow it
passed
to the present possessors
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[Page] 85c
[Continued from page 85b]
the glebe. When Mr Thomson
left his manse at the
Disruption he bought the
font from the heritors &
took it with him. After his
death his widow & daughter
built a cottage by themselves,
& again took the font
with them, but when Mrs
Thomson died & his daughter
left the town she presented
it to Mr & Mrs Roberton.
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high pitched roof and crow stepped gables but
it has been so completely modernised that
neither inside nor out is there any feature of
antiquarian interest remaining. The other house
adjoins it and stands with its end gable facing
on to the High St. The lower storey or basement
is entered from the High street and has a very low
roof, while the upper floors enter by an outside
stair from the Parliament Square. The house is
whitewashed and presents no particular feature
of interest. Its walls are very thick and it
probably dates from the early 17th century.
23rd June 1910.
A dull day with intermittent showers & dropping
rain that made the writing of notes & taking of
measurements difficult. Bicycled to Westerdale
over greasy roads.
[Margin] Broch
"Carn na Mairg"
Westerdale
Situated on the right or E [East] bank of the
Thurso River about 1/2 m. [mile] S. [South] of Westerdale is
a broch known as "Carn na Mairg". It
is a conspicuous grass covered mound
rising from the edge of the river and cut
off from the moorland by a
well defined ditch opening on the river bank, wet in the bottom, and
filling when the river is in flood.
On the SE. [South East] this ditch measures some 22'
in width and about 15' on the NE [North East]. From
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[Page] 87
[Continued from page 86]
the top of the parapet which crowns the scarp it
is from 8' to 10' deep but its depth from the top
of the outer bank is only 2' to 3'. Towards the
E [East] the continuity of the ditch is broken by the
approach to the broch which crosses on the
solid and is 6' wide where it passes through
the enceinte. On either side of this approach the
foundations of a wall are visible beneath the
turf as it crosses the ditch, and beyond it on the moorland
two parallel mounds
or ruined walls exist for a distance of some 50' measuring 17' across at base and
24' apart indicating its direction towards the
entrance at an angle of about 45°. Between
the ends of these flanking mounds and the
ditch an old road now interposes.
The parapet wall on the top of the scarp has
been some 4' to 5' in thickness and has been
carried entirely round the broch. Between
it and the base of the tower has been a
level space some 30' in width over which
numerous flag stones set on end protrude
from the turf. The outer
end of the entrance passage of the broch
has been exposed as also the inner end
while on one or two places on the interior
small portions of wall are visible. The
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[Continued from page 87]
entrance has been from the E [East] through a passage
10'.6" in length measured at the level of its roof.
3'.4" wide at the exterior and
2'.4" wide at the interior extremity. The outer
lintel is gone but the next four remain in situ,
though one is broken, roofing the passage for
8' of its length. It is open at the exterior for a
height of 2'.3". [caret mark]
[Margin] ^ [caret mark] No guard chamber
or door jambs
are exposed
The diameter over all is about
52'. Above the present floor level of the passage
the greatest height of the mound is 8'. A de:
:pression on the top marks the court.
[Margin] Broch.
"Tulach Buaile a Chrois"
Westerdale
(15)
On the top of the left bank of the Thurso River
about 100 yards below Westerdale Bridge is a
mound covering the remains of a broch
small fragments of the wall of which are visible
The mound has at one time been quarried into
at the S. [South] end and the river has eaten into
on the E. [East] There now remains an oblong mound
measuring some 60' to 70' in length by 20' in
breadth.
[Margin] Mound.
"Tulach Lochain Bhraiseil"
(14)
About 1/4 N [North] of Westerdale Bridge on the
left bank of the Thurso River and about
100 yds. [yards] distant from it is a conical grassy
mound of artificial character. There is
no depression on the top and its greatest
elevation is about 10'. In diameter it measures
119' from N to S [North to South] by 103' from E to W. [East to West] There
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[Continued from page 88]
is nothing to indicate whether it is a cairn or a
broch but from its shape it is possibly the former.
[Margin] Mound.
Tulach an Thuarain.
(16)
About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of Westerdale Bridge, close by
the left bank of the Thurso River and within
50 yds [yards] of the last described mound is another
known as Tulach an Thuarain. It is also
of indeterminate character but the depressions
on the top of it are suggestive of a broch.
Its greatest elevation is 8' and its diameter
from N to S. [North to South] 105' and from E to W. [East to West] 90'. The
lesser diameter in the latter direction being
due to the removal of a portion of the mound
in the formation of a road.
[Margin] St. Trostan's chapel.
site & graveyard.
(71)
At the edge of a field to the E [East] of the road
that leads from Westerdale to Balantsiannach
and 1/2 N. [North] of the former place the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] indicates
the site of St. Trostan's chapel. An unenclosed
graveyard of small extent measuring some
60' x 45' marks the spot. It is entirely overgrown
with grass and weeds beneath which the
presence of numerous grave stone is evident.
[Margin] Broch
Dale
(12)
In a field on the W. [West] side of the road that
leads from Westerdale to Halkirk about
1/2 m. [mile] N by E. [North by East] of Dale is a mound covering
the remains of a broch. It has been of considerable
size but almost one half has been removed
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[Continued from page 89]
from the E [East] side. The original dimensions have
been about 140' by 122' while the remaining
portion measures 64' from N. to S. [North to South] by 113' from E to W. [East to West].
The greatest elevation is about 9'.
[Margin] ?cairn
Pullyhour
(46)
On the right bank of the Thurso River to the N [North]
of the termination of road which leads from the
[--] Free Church School to Pullyhour and
some 200 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the latter place on a piece of waste ground is a construction
consisting of a circular bank about 2' in height
and 8' to 9' in thickness enclosing a space meas:
:uring about 43' in diameter in the centre of
which is a flat topped mound 28' in diameter
and about 1'.6" in height. The whole is overgrown
with turf but appears to be stony underneath.
I dont know what this is. There is no
break in the enclosing bank.
[Margin] Standing stone
Pullyhour
(unnoted)
Halfway between the ruined cottage at Pully:
:hour and the Thurso River near the edge of
a cultivated field is a pointed, flat sided
boulder standing 3'.5" above ground and
measuring 8'.3" in circumference at base.
It has the appearance of having been a
member of a stone circle.
[Margin] Broch
Achies,
Harpsdale
(52)
Some 200 yds. [yards] ESE [East South East] of Achies farm a
grass covered hillock rises from a cultivated
field. Its diameter from N to S [North to [South] is 90'
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and from E to W. [East to West] 80'. A considerable part
of the mound has been removed from the
E [East] side. Its greatest elevation from the average
level is about 8'. The exposed building and
depressions on the summit suggest that this
is a broch. This has been a very disagreeable
day and the rain prevented me carrying out
my programme to visit Dirlot & the brochs up
the Thurso River. I have, however, wiped off
a number of details. The tendency to
headache which bothered me in Sutherland
is again troubling me. I must allow myself
an occasional motor as the daily bicycling
20 odd miles besides much walking is evidently
telling on me.
24th June 1910.
Bicycled to Wick en route to Nybster but
finding a bad head wind hired a motor car &
completed the journey in it. John Nicholson was
expecting me. We first retired to his room & sought
out a collection of unpublished plans of brochs
which he has kindly lent me to make use of. He
has a great amount of pottery from the various
brochs which I wish to go over before I leave the
county also an object made of whale bone
which he thinks was a sledge. It has been, I
think, used as a saddle quern or a "table" for
[Continued on page 92] |
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polishing. On its surface are a number of small
triangular shaped impressions made with a tool
such as I have seen before on deerhorn etc.
[Margin] Nybster Broch.
(28)
The broch of Nybster is situated on the top of a
high cliff promontory about 60 yards in length and
40 yds. [yards] in width at the landward end, narrowing
to Seaward. It has been cut off from the land
by a ditch some 20' wide drawn across the land:
:ward end. The broch has been excavated by
the late Sir Francis Tress Barry and has been
described by Dr [Doctor] Joseph Anderson. From that
description the following particulars are in the
main taken. Immediately within the ditch,
a well-built wall about 10' in thickness, increas:
:ing to about 15' in the middle also crosses the
promontory in a segment of a circle with its convex side towards the land.
Near the middle of the convexity (where the wall is
thickest is the entrance passage, 15' in length
through the thickness of the wall, 3'.6" in width
at the outer end, widening to 4' at a distance
of 4 1/2' inwards, where there are checks for a door,
and widening again slightly at 12' from
the entrance, where there are checks for a
second door. On the inner side of this
forework to the S [South] of the entrance, part of the thickening
of the wall ends in a stairway of which five
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[Continued from page 92]
steps remain from the level of the interior area to the
present level of the top of the wall. A similar arrange:
:ment of steps to the north of the entrance gives access
to the present top of the wall from the floor of the
long chamber immediately behind the northern
half of the wall. Immediately in front of this
entrance through the forework stands the broch
which, however, is entered from the opposite or
seaward side and is in that direction enclosed
by a congeries of outbuildings oblong, circular,
and irregular in form scattered over nearly the
whole area of the promontory. The entrance to
the broch is through a passage 14' in length, about
3' in width for the first 10' when there are checks
for a door and widening a few inches on either
side for the remainder of its length. ^ [caret mark]
[Margin] ^ [caret mark] The stone in
which the pivot
of the door worked
is still in situ.]
There is
no guard chamber. The interior area measures
23' in diameter and there is no scarcement.
There is no stair but at 14'.6" from the inner end
of the passage to the left on the inner face of
the wall a filling or rebuilding with smaller
stone, commencing 2' above the floor level & ex:
:tending for a distance of 5' is distinctly visible.
The greatest height of wall remaining is 5'.3".
In the floor of the interior area towards the
N [North] side there are two cist like constructions
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[Continued from page 93]
formed of four slabs set on edge, which have been sup:
:posed to be fireplaces. One measures 4' by 2' and
2'.5" deep; the other 3'.3" by 2'.8" and 1'.4" deep.
Almost opposite the entrance towards the back is
a small pit or well, squarish about 1'.3" in diameter but
now only 1'.2" in depth. The original covering stone
remains. To keep it in position a notch has been
cut in one side which fits over a pointed stone
set firmly in the floor along side. A drain
lintelled over passes out under the entrance passage.
The outbuildings are well built. The articles
found in this broch included a long handled
bone comb, several portions of quern stones
and saddle querns, and an upper stone of
a rotary quern ornamented with radial
grooves and flutings, but without a central
perforation. (Also, John Nicholson tells me,
a bronze pin with a circular ring head
& a bent neck, the head being at right angles to the
stem. As well as the whale bone "quern" before
mentioned.)
[Margin] Canisbay
Sgarbach
(14)
On the shore about 1/4 E [East] of Auckingill school
is a high cliff promontory of a curved form
bearing the name Sgarbach. The landward
end is crossed by a well constructed wall
of dry masonry some 62' in length, 12'.6" in
[Continued on page 95] |
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[Continued from page 94]
thickness and, near the middle of its course, some 4'
in height. It runs from the edge of a deep ravine
on one side to the cliff edge on the other. Somewhat
to the E. [East] of the centre this wall is pierced by a
passage passing direct through it. It is 3'.2" in
width at the outer end. At 6'.8" inwards on the
right (the left side is broken down) is a rebate for a
door faced with a slab 6" thick set edgewise in
the wall the passage in rear of it widening to
4'.9" Across the passage before the door check
projects a sill 8" in height. Behind the rebate
a bar hole 8" square passes for a distance of
at least 3'.6" into the wall. At the inner
end of the passage and to the left some 4'
back from it is an oval chamber measuring
some 10' by 7'. Following the
line of the passage inwards and curving to the
right is an entrance through a wall with a
concave face inwards some 9'.7" from the
end of the main entrance. Some 8' in front
of this main opening was found a hearth
defined with flags set on end, in which were
ashes, food refuse, and fragments of pottery,
A drain passes from the interior outwards
below the floor of the entrance passage. This
construction the details of which are very
[Continued on page 96] |
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[Continued from page 95]
indefinite, was excavated by Sir F. T. Barry.
[Margin] Standing Stone,
remains of.
(unnoted).
Some 60 yds [yards] N. [North] of the wall across the end of the
Sgarbach is the base of a standing stone broken
over some 50 years ago. It is a schistone block
4' to 5' in width, and 9" in thickness facing NE. [North East] and
S.W. [South West]. It has been exposed for a height of about 2'.
[Margin] Wick Par [Parish]
Kirk Stones of Stroupster.
About 1m. [mile] SSW [South South West] of Stroupster out of the moorland
there rises a green mound some 50 yds. [yards] in length
by about 30 yds. [yards] in breadth. The remains of various
buildings on this site bear the name of the Kirk
Stones. The buildings are of early type but none
of them suggests an ecclesiastical building.
In all there are the remains of four structures
in which large flat slabs have been freely
used to face the inner sides of the walls.
[Opposite Page]
[Sketch of floor plan with scale]
10 -- 5 -- 0 -- 5 -- 10 ft [feet]
[Photograph inserted] --
On the most conspicuous building near the
centre of the mound excavation was done
by Mr Samuel Laing and also by Sir Francis
Barry. It has been a rectangular building
with a wall some 4'.6" in thickness
enclosing an area nearly 11' square. This
has been entered by a passage from the
WSW. [West South West] near the centre of one wall, 13' in length.
2' wide at the inner end. and slightly wider
at the exterior. At the inner end on the
right is a square pillar which may have formed
[Continued on page 97] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-97 |
[Page] 97
[Continued from page 96]
one side of a doorway, with a lower block behind it and on the opposite side a similar stone
lies along the side of the passage some 3'.3" in
length corresponding in length with the two on the
opposite side. Outside these the passage is 3'.6" in
width. Against the back or ENE [East North East] wall
in the interior are set three slabs edge on to the
wall. ^ [caret mark]
[Opposite page]
12' and 3' distant from either side and 1'.5"
and 3'.4" apart. --
Two of them are about 2' in height and one 1'.6"
and projecting outwards from 2'.3" to 3'. The
thickness of the walls on either side of the
passage is indeterminate but at 6'.7" on the
left the face of a wall running parallel for
a distance of 16' has been exposed. The
whole group appears to have been enclosed
within a wall. A burn, called the Kirk burn
flows along the N. [North] side. On the adjacent moor:
:land where the heather has been recently burned
ridges caused by cultivation are clearly
defined.
Passing SE [South East] towards Keiss we passed the
"Pict House (36)". It is a mound which has
been excavated. There is little appearance of
any artificial characteristics about it and
certainly nothing worth recording. It was
excavated by Sir Francis Barry.
At Keiss I picked up the car & had a fear:
:some ride home with a dangerous youthful driver.
[Continued on page 98] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-98 |
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[Continued from page 97]
[Opposite Page]
25th June 1910.
Saturday. All forenoon engaged in writing
up notes. A bitterly cold day. In afternoon
walked down to Thuster Broch.
[Margin] Broch
Thuster.
(unnoted)
In the corner of a cultivated field about 1/2m. [mile]
N [North] of Thuster farm is a low circular mound.
Much ploughed down which appears to cover
the ruins of a broch. It has a diameter of
about 130' and an elevation of from 4' to 5'.
There is much slatey stone lying about the
surface. --
27th June 1910.
A showery morning so wrote up notes and
revised proof of Sutherland Introduction in the
forenoon. After lunch set out with J. on bicycles to
the brochs beyond Wick.
[Margin] Broch
The Pap, Broadhaven.
(54)
Situated about 200 yds [yards] E. [East] of Hillhead farm at
Broadhaven near Wick are the remains of a
broch, excavated by Sir Francis Barry. I
have a plan by John Nicholson from which a
description may be obtained. In its present
condition the interior is largely filled with
debris beneath which the wall face is hidden.
On the exterior towards the W. [West] the wall is
visible for a height of about 2'. The diameter
over all has been about 52'; the thickness of
the walls about 13'. All details are now obscured
by debris.
[Margin] Mount Papigoe
In rear of a cottage on the W. [West] side of the
road towards the N. [North] end of Papigoe is a
large circular mound which may possibly
conceal a broch. It measures about
110' in diameter and has an elevation of
from 5' to 6'. It is somewhat stony on the
surface but where a washing pole has re:
:cently been erected the upturned soil appears
to be clay which suggest a natural charac:
:ter.
[Continued on page 99] |
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[Continued from page 98]
[Margin] Broch
Elsey
(33)
At the landward end of a spur of low rock
that projects into the sea to the E SE [East South East] of the farm
of Elsey about 1/4 S. [South] of Staxigoe is situated a
broch. It was excavated by Sir Francis
T. Barry and the plan by J. Nicholson is in
my possession. The entrance is from the SE. [South East]
or Seaward end of the rocks through a passage
17' in length. At its outer extremity the passage
is 3' wide which width it retains for 11' when it
expands to 4' forming a rebate for a door.
Inward from this point it slightly narrows
and at the inner end it is 3'.6" in width.
In rear of the checks on either side are square
holes for the bar. The bottom of the passage
is not now clear of debris but the height of
wall exposed is 3'.4". One lintel remains in
position, but broken, above the door checks.
The interior diameter is 29'. Some 19' round
to the left of the inner end of the passage has
been the entrance to the stair 2'.4" wide. The
wall on the left has fallen. The stairway rises to the right
is 3'.7" wide at the foot and 2'.3" at the highest
remaining point 12' distant. The six upper steps are
visible. The foot of the stair is concealed
by ruins but beneath its position is exposed
a small circular chamber measuring as far
[Continued on page 100] |
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[Continued from page 99]
down as exposed some 3' in diameter and covered
with a roof of converging stones. The back of it is 6'
in from the inner face of the main wall. At
the foot of the stair stretching towards the main
entrance has been a chamber the inner wall
of which is visible for a short distance.
Some 15' round to the right of the main
entrance close to the wall another small
beehive roofed chamber is exposed also some
3' in diameter. Across the interior area of
the broch, some 12' from the back and with
a concave outline towards it, rises a secondary
wall, whose highest point is some 8' or 9'
above floor level. For one half of its periphery,
& that towards the N. [North] the wall of the
broch is better preserved than that of any
hitherto visited, having an elevation of 9'.
At the only point where the wall face on
the exterior is completely exposed it measures
5'.6" in height. Any outbuildings, which may
exist around the broch, have not been uncovered.
Returning to Wick I called on Baillie Simpson
& asked to see his brother's collection. We were
most kindly received & given tea. The collector
was omniverous but not discriminating!
Geological specimens, bottle fish, trinkets from
[Continued on page 101] |
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[Continued from page 100]
foreign sea ports formed the bulk of it. He has, however,
one very fine black ?agenite stone axe double
edge with a concave surface at top & bottom, and
perforated in the centre. It was found in the
mouth of the Wick River.
[Opposite Page]
[Sketch of axe inserted] --
28th June 1910.
A disagreeable day with rain falling inter:
:mittently until well on in the afternoon. Bi:
:cycled to Bower.
[Margin] Broch
Camster.
(unnoted)
About 120 yds. [yards] NNW. [North North West] of Camster Farm situated
in a cultivated field is a low mound sur:
:rounded by a trench. It is now regularly
under cultivation and much ploughed down. The
ditch has been about 40' wide and the diameter
of the mound is about 150'. I called
on the farmer, who gave me much interesting
information! He was a man about 50 but
still retained many of the superstitious beliefs
of an earlier age. "The mound used to be much
higher," he said "but a former laird had re:
:moved a great part of it. For his temerity, however,
a number of his stock died". I was delighted to
be told in all seriousness that about 100 years
ago there were still many Picts living up and
down Caithness in the Picts Houses and if
you listened outside you could hear them
sharpening their knives. They were uncanny
[Continued on page 102] |
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[Continued from page 101]
folk and if one crossed them in any way he
was sure to get a fall. A woman had been
once taken away by them. She came back, but
she was never the same woman again". All
these tales he had heard from his grandfather.
My suggestion that the school boards had killed
the Picts was not favourably received!
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted] --
[Margin] "Stone Lud."
Standing Stone
(9)
Situated at the side of a stone wall on the moor:
:land about 1m. [mile] WSW. [West South West] of Bower church is a
high standing stone bearing the name of "Stone Lud"
It measures 8'.6" in height above ground, 3'.8" in
breadth at base, and about 3' in breadth near
its upper extremity and 1'.9" in thickness. It is
set facing almost ENE [East North East] and WSW [West South West] (52' E [East] and
? 232 W [West]) Some 96' to the SSE. [South South East] is another similar
stone lying prostrate which seems to have stood
in the same alignment. It measures 8'.3" in
length, 4'.10" in breadth at base, 3'.10" in breadth
at its upper end and 10" in thickness. Some
23' to the NW. [North West] of the upright stone is a small
cairn with a diameter of 26' which has been
excavated. Its elevation is now about 1'.
[Margin] Chambered Cairn.
Heathercro.
Brabster Moss.
(11)
Situated on the end of a hill which rises to an
elevation of some 272' over sea level from the Brabster
Moss & about 1m) [mile] to the E [East] of the Free Church at Hacro is the Cairn of Heathercro. It is much
dilapidated but appears to have been a
[Continued on page 103] |
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[Continued from page 102]
long cairn with a length of about 150'. but the
body of the cairn in rear of the chamber has been
removed to such an extent that accurate
measurement of that portion is not now ob:
:tainable. The main axis lies NE [North East] and SW [South West].
At the former end a considerable mound still
remains with a diameter from NW to SE [North West to South East] of 62'
and from NE to SW [North East to South West] of some 50'. Its elevation is
some 8'. At 41' from the NE [North East] end the upper
portion of a large slab 4' broad is visible
standing erect across
the line of the cairn, at 5' S. [South] of it and nearer
the edge of the cairn is another similar while
some 8' in rear of the second is a third.
These slabs have apparently formed parts of
the chamber. The cairn was noted by
Sir F. Barrie so John Nicholson may be
able to give me some information about it.
[Margin] Broch
Bowertower
(unnoted)
In a cultivated field some 200 yds. [yards] SW. [South West] of (?) Bower:
:tower Farm are ruins beneath a mound which
may be those of a broch. Much of it has been
removed and the outline is quite indefinite.
I must ask J. N. about this also.
[Margin] Broch
Hacro.
(10)
At Hacro about 1/2 S. [South] of the Manse there
rises a grassy knoll from amidst the
cultivated fields which apparently covers
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[Continued from page 103]
the ruins of a broch. It has been dug into and
removed to a small extent on the NE [North East] and SW [South West].
but on the whole seems well preserved. The
top is flat and the sides somewhat steeply
scarped. The diameter across the top is some
66' and the elevation is about 10'.
[Margin] Cairn Site.
On the way home I had a look for the site
of this cairn but saw nothing of any moment.
My experience today shows me that my marks
from Barry's map are quite unreliable. They
are placed as accurately as possible from
the map prepared by John Nicholson and in
the Museum but the positions of the objects
is only approximate.
29th June 1910.
A hopelessly wet day. Fortunately
Mr Henderson from Bilbster had arranged
to take us to John o' Groats in his car &
we went expecting the day to improve but
it got steadily worse. We examined the
Road broch at Keiss and also the Nybster
broch on our way up and in the afternoon
in pouring rain he and I walked out to
the Stacks of Duncansby while J. stayed in
the hotel with his brother, also of the party.
The district maintains a fairly large crofter
population and the crab & lobster fishing is excellent.
[Continued on page 105] |
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[Continued from page 104]
The cliffs are of old red sandstone which takes on
beautiful tones of colour and many wild flowers
grow in the clefts and gullies. We found the
wild scilla. (S. [Scilla] verna.)
30th June 1910.
Another dull day, windy and rather wet.
Returned to inspect the objects marked cairns
on Flex Hill near Watten and found that
with one exception, already described, they are
all hut circles!
[Margin] Watten.
Hut circles
Flex Hill.
(29 & 31)
One hut circle to the N [North] of the site of the cairn has
been previously described (page 35.)
At the N. [North] end of Flex Hill some 3/4m. [mile] S. [South] of
Strath farm house close to the wire fence which
runs Westward across the moor from the Camster
Road is a group of hut circles. The furthest
up the slope of the hill, about 100 yds. [yards] distant
from the road is circular measuring some
20' in diameter interiorly. The bank is now
quite low and its breadth too indefinite for
measurement. The floor has been dug out so that
its level is 3' below that of the natural level on
the upper side and 1 1/2' to 2' on the lower. The
position of the entrance is not evident.
The second which is situated some 80'
W. [West] of the first has an interior diameter of
from 18' to 20' and an entrance, seemingly
[Continued on page 106] |
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[Page] 106
[continued from page 105]
from the SW. [South West] The bank appears to be some
8' to 10' in thickness but it is not accurately meas:
:urable. The interior has also been dug out but
not so deeply as in the previous circle.
Some 20' to the NW. [North West] of it lies a third circle. The
interior diameter is about 21' and the entrance from
the SW. [South West] The thickness of the bank is about 11' and
around the lower side it is still a foot or two
in height. The interior has also been dug out and
its level is from 2'.6" to 3' below that of the hill
slope on the upper side.
[Opposite Page]
All these hut circles are overgrown with deep heather.
There are no mounds visible anywhere in their
vicinity. --
Some 30 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the last is yet another,
which has been partially destroyed by the
formation of a sheep drain across the lower
end of it. The diameter of the interior is some
9' across and 11' towards the entrance which
has been from the SW. [South West] The entrance appears
to have been very wide. The section
exposed by the cutting of the drain
shows that the bank is formed of earth
or peat and small stones.
[Margin] Mound (S)
Scorriclet
Bicycling onward down the Camster Road
which is almost unfit for cycling, I turned aside
to visit the site of the Mound at Scorriclet,
on the W [West] of the Strath Burn, which was visible
from the road. The fragment that remains is
[Continued on page 107] |
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[Continued from Page 106)
not significant of anything in particular.
[Margin] Wick.
Broch
Camster
(23)
Some 300 yds. [yards] E [East] of Camster farm, which is
situated on the high moorland between Watten
and Latheron and some 6 m. [miles] S. [South] of the former, is a
broch. Overlooking a track of marshy ground to
the E [East] of the Camster burn is a rocky escarpment
from the edge of which rises to a height of some 12' a round rock. cut
off from the rising slope on the E and W. [East and West] by a
trench some 30' wide. The sides of the rock
are steeply scarped on the W [West] to a height of
about 12' and to a somewhat less extent on the
E [East] while to the Southward the rocky face
from the base of the prominence falls away
for some 12' to 15' more. Below the counterscarp
which only is visible on the E and W. [East and West] flanks the
depth of the trench is some 3' - 4'. From
the top of the scarp towards the base of the
broch the usual terrace some 20' in width
appears to intervene. This is very apparent
on the E and W. [East and West] but on the N. [North] the surface
is much disturbed and in this direction has
probably been the entrance and outbuildings
Two segments of what appear to be the
circular wall of the broch project for
some 3' to 4' from the surface. They indicate
a diameter over all of some 78' and an
[Continued on page 108] |
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[Page] 108
[Continued from page 107]
interior diameter of about 34' but as the whole
mound is covered with thick turf and no wall
face visible these measurements can only be held
to be approximate.
[Margin] Standing Stones
Camster
unnoted.
On the E [East] side of the road from Watten to Lybster
slightly to the N. [North] of the point where a track branches
off to Camster are two standing stones. That
nearest the road is some 30' distant. It is a
low stone 2'.10" above ground, 3'.9" in breadth
and 10" in thickness and faces NNE [North North East] and SSW. [South South West]
Some 170' to the N. [North] of it is another similar slab
2'.8" high, 3'.5" broad and 10" thick facing
NNW [North North West] and SSE [South South East]. This latter stone does not seem to
be very deeply set. I cannot tell what
these stones are. They are possibly not prehistoric.
[Margin] Hut Circles
Upper Achairn
(43)
Near the source of the Achairn burn, about
1 m. [mile] E [East] of the Camster road and about 1/2 m. [mile] S.W. [South West]
of the deserted shepherd's cottage at Upper Achairn
are the remains of a hut circle. Its site is a
bright green spot among the heather. The
outline of the bank is marked by occasional
stones protruding from the turf and the interior
diameter is about 27'. The whole is very
indistinct and the entrance is not apparent.
Some 30' to the N [North] another green spot seems
to have been the site of a structure but there
[Continued on page 109] |
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[Continued from page 108]
are no definite remains visible. These are noted
as a "Cairn" on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey]!
The Moors here are flat, boggy and uninteresting
and it was a dreary tramp across them to this object.
[Margin] Hut Circles
Camster
(unnoted)
On the W [West] side of the Camster road and about
1/3 of a mile E by S. [East by South] of Camster on the end of a
grassy spur which projects into the flat land
by the burn is a group of hut circles. Near
the end of the spur is a circle with an interior
diameter of about 16', a bank some 9' to 10'
thick and an entrance from the SE. [South East]
Some 20' SW. [South West] of it are the indefinite remains
of another. - oval or oblong in shape measuring
interiorly some 10' by 16'. The entrance from S.W. [South West] appears
to be very wide
The outline is, however, very indistinct.
About 100' to the NE. [North East] of the first is another
small circle with a diameter of some 10' and
entrance from the SE. [South East] Its bank is much worn
down. Some 20' to the SE. [South East] is another
oval in form - measuring interiorly some
14' by 24'. The entrance has been from the W. [West]
The bank on either side is carried down
the hill in front for a distance of some 22'
with a space between of some 11'.
[Continued on page 110] |
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[Continued from page 109]
[Margin] Latheron
Broch
Camster
(23)
In the moorland about
1/2 m. [mile] S. [South] of Camster and somewhat concealed by
the higher ground to the E and W. [East and West] is a green
flat topped mound covering the ruins of a
broch. It has been surrounded by a ditch
some 44' in width. The scarp which measures
down the slope some 30' is about 5' in elevation
and the counterscarp, which is much steeper is
some 4' in height. The base of a wall encircling
the mound at the level of the top of the scarp
is visible all round and an entrance through
it is apparent on the ENE. [East North East] from the exposure
of a few feet of the face of a wall curving
inwards. The diameter across the space en:
:closed by this wall is some 85' and across
the level top of the mound, which rises for
some 4' or 5' above it is 35'. Placed at irregular
intervals around the base of the mound,
and in one instance on the sloping side of it,
are some 4 or 5 small cairn-like heaps of
stones measuring some 8' across.
1st July 1910.
Yet another wet day Rain falling in torrents
until the evening. Finished revising the
proofs of the Sutherland Introduction and
also examined & marked the maps.
I bicycle on an average 20 miles a day
[Continued on page 111] |
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[Continued from page 110]
at present and of course walk many miles
in addition. My journal is usually written from
9.0 - 10.30 or thereabouts, when we set out for the
day and seldom return before 6.0.
[Opposite Page]
These brochs are two mounds on the right of the road
leading from Shorelands farm to the shore. They are
both under cultivation. --
2nd July 1910.
A wet morning at Thuster but fine at Wick
so set out for Shorelands & Girnigoe. I could
find no trace of the Shorelands Moss Brochs
noted by Nicholson.
[Margin] St. Tear's chapel
Site.
About 1/4 m. [mile] N by E [North by East] of Shorelands Farm some 30
yds. [yards] back from the edge of the cliff by the shore
are clearly discernible the foundations of the
chapel of St. Tear. Within a bank which probably
marks the outer face of the walls the stones of
which have been removed the measurement is 40'
by 23'.
[Margin] Girnigoe &
Castle Sinclair
(7 & 8)
Supplement from
MacG & Ross.
Situated on the S. [South] side of Sinclair Bay, to the
W [West] of Noss Head and about 2 1/2 m. [miles] N [North] of Wick
are the remains of the Castle of Sinclair and
Girnigoe. A narrow rock rising to a height
of some 40' - 50' with precipitous flanks
projects for about 300' seaward.
On its W. [West] side is the ocean and on the E [East]
a deep narrow goe cuts it off from the
adjoining cliffs. Across the landward
end a deep trench has been broken through
[Continued on page 112] |
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[Page] 112
[Continued from page 111]
the rock from cliff to cliff some 20' in width and,
though largely filled with debris, still some 14' at
its greatest depth beneath the base of the surmounting
wall. Near the centre of its length the rock has
been a second time cut through by an irregular
trench some 12' to 15' in depth and the same in
width. From the landward end of the promon:
:tory rise the ruins of Castle Sinclair while the
keep of Girnigoe rears itself aloft from the farther
edge of the second trench.
Castle Sinclair which is said to have been built
in the year 1606
[Margin] Verify
and destroyed by order of
the Privy Council shortly afterwards is now
a complete ruin the most prominent part
being a tall chimney on one side of
which the remains of a stair is visible, rising
above the entrance. The gatehouse, through
which an arched passage still some 25' in
length gave access to the interior, is probably
a part of the older building belonging to
Girnigoe. Its walls are some 7'.6" in thickness
and near the centre of its length are the grooves
for a portcullis the slot through which
it passed through the roof being however built
up by the secondary structure. On the
left beyond the portcullis a round arched
[Continued on page 113] |
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[Continued from page 112]
passage through the wall 2' in width
probably gave access to a guard room.
Castle Girnigoe is a keep, a parallelogram on
plan, measuring 36' by 28' over the walls with
two wings on the E [East] or seaward face. The
S. [South] wing is small and contained the stair now
gone while the N. [North] wing in its basement con:
:tained the kitchen. The principal entrance
was by a drawbridge across the trench at
its N. [North] end and through a doorway in the W. [West]
wall. From this doorway a passage led to the
interior flanked on the right by a guard
room entered from the sea-ward end.
In the E [East] end of the guard room are three oillets,
one commanding the end of the passage from
the main doorway, another the approach from
the seaward end of the rock, and the other
the head of the stair leading up from the goe.
[Opposite Page]
From the NW. [North West] corner of the guard room a stair leads
to the dungeon partially cut out of the rock beneath the entrance passage.
It is lighted by one small aperture high in the
N. [North] wall and has a "guard robe" near the entrance.
The floor is now covered with boulders & stones
which have been carried in. --
A second entrance to the keep from the goe
passed through a small door above high water
line into the S. [South] end the trench. Beneath the
[Margin] (see Calder)
first floor the whole of the apartments & passages are
vaulted. Corbels for supporting a bretasche
project along the whole length of the sea
front at the second and top floor levels
and for a short distance [at] the latter level
[Continued on page 114] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-114 |
[Page] 114
[Continued from page 113]
on the S. [South] face above the landing in the goe.
The keep is built of the blue local flags and the
quoins, jambs and lintels are of red sandstone.
The walls terminate in pointed gables and the
roof does not appear to have been battlemented.
[Margin] See photos.
The rock extends Eastwards beyond the keep
for about 170 ft. [feet] and is enclosed with walls
having remains of buildings along the inside
on the N. [North] for a distance of 83' and thereafter
where the rock widens on both sides, a passage
way some 15' in width being left between.
At the seaward extremity a shelf some 15'
below the level of the rest of the rock measuring
some 35' by 26' has also been enclosed & reached
by a flight of steps. Near the centre of it
a square aperture which has been covered
by a flag or trap door gives access to a
stair passing through an obtuse pointed arch
on to the rocks near the sea level on the
N. [North] side.
[Margin] Cairn
Noss Head.
Some 200 yds. [yards] SSW. [ South South West] of the Lighthouse on Noss
Head is a small cairn with a diam [diameter] of some 13' which has been
excavated. In the centre a large slab is
exposed which has probably formed one
side of a cist and another similar slab
some 5'.9" long lies displaced near it.
[Continued on page 115] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-115 |
[Page] 115
[Continued from page 114]
5th July 1910.
[Margin] Ashlys Cairn
(15)
Bower Par. [Parish]
On the crest of the moorland about 1m. [mile]
W. by N. [West by North] of Lyth school is a small cairn measur:
:ing some 30' in diameter and 3' in elevation
A depression on the top probably implies
that it has been excavated.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted] --
[Margin] Ring of Castle Hill.
(1)
About 1/2 m. [mile] to the S. [South] of Barrock Home farm
is a circular green mound rising from the middle
of a moss now drained, which has evidently
been a fort of small extent. A ditch some
35' in width encircles it at its base having on
the outside a bank formed of the upcast
some 2'.6" in elevation above the natural level
and 11' broad across the top which is flat.
The ditch has a depth of some 5' below the
level of the top of this outer bank and the
scarp to the top of the breastwork which
crowns it rises to a height of 8'.2" above the
bottom. The breastwork, which seems to be
an earthern mound, is some 8' thick at base
& some 2' - 3' high on the inner side. The
diameter of the interior is some 94'. The
entrance has been from the N. [North] from which direction
the continuity of the ditch is interrupted
by an approach unexcavated some 15' wide.
There is no stonework visible through the
turf with which the construction is covered
[Continued on page 116] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-116 |
[Page] 116
[Continued from page 115]
but at one or two places near the base of
the scarp on the W. [West] rock protrudes indicating
that a natural elevation has been utilised.
The bottom of the ditch being considerably below
the natural level it was probably wet.
[Margin] Gunn's Hillock
(1b)
About 1/2m. [mile] SSW. [South South West] of Barrock House in a
walled enclosure and surmounted with trees
are the remains of a broch now represented by
a low mound of some 3' elevation & with a diameter of about 60'
It is overgrown with rank vegetation and
no structure is visible.
[Margin] Ref. [Reference] Keiss Castle.
This is later
than our
period.
Over the front door of Barrock House is a
stone brought from Keiss Castle. It bears
two shields - the dexter quarterly, 1st & 4th the
Sinclair galley, 2nd & 3rd a lion rampant.
under a knights helmet surmounted with a
crest a ?native highlander bearing a flag.
beneath the initials S W. S. - the sinister shield
quarterly 1st & 4th 3 stars of five points two and
one - 2nd undecipherable, 3rd seems to
be a boar's head but also indistinct. Sup:
:porters two savages bearing clubs. Underneath
the initials D. C. S. Sir John
Sinclair was not at home but though I
procured the steps I was unable to blazon
the shields to my satisfaction.
[Continued on page 117] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-117 |
[Page] 117
[Continued from page 116]
[Margin] Broch
Hill of Works.
1a.
This broch which is situated at the corner of a
wood about 1/2m. [mile] E by S. [East by South] of Barrock House was
excavated by Sir Francis Barrie. It is entered
from the WSW. [West South West] by a passage 15' in length
3'.4" wide at the exterior and 3'.8" wide at the
inner end. At 9' inwards on the left is a rebate
9" deep and on the right a rebate of 7" ending
in a square edged recess measuring 7" by 3" such
as might contain the wooden joist of a door.
[Margin]
[Sketch inserted]
Within the door checks the passage is 4' wide.
The interior diameter is some 29'. A break
in the wall 10' to left of the inner end of the
entrance passage probably marks the entrance
to the stair now obscured by ruins & vegetation
In front of this some 5' distant from the wall
is a well now for the most part choked with
debris, reached by steps some 2'.3" below the
floor level. In line with the right side of
the entrance passage a secondary wall
projects for 7' into the interior from the wall
of the main structure. At its distal end
it is 2'.6" high and 2' broad. Portions of
flags protrude here and there through the
vegetation that covers the interior. The greatest
height of wall visible in the interior is 4'
but it is for the most part broken down.
on the exterior it has a height of about 2'.6".
Outside the broch at a distance of from 3' to
4' is a wall running concentrically around it. From
a point on the S. [South] some 32' distant across the top
of the wall from the inner end of the passage
on the left, a wall has been exposed branching to
the SE. [South East] About 26' distant from the outer face
of the broch on the N. [North] and 50' on the S. [South] and
obliterated on the W [West] a ditch encircles the structure.
On the N. [North] this ditch is 45' in width & still some
10' deep below the crests of scarp & counterscarp.
On the S. [South] it is less well defined. The area
between the ditch & the broch does not appear to
have been explored.
[Margin] Wick Barrock Mill.
mound
(35)
Some 60 yds [yards] SSE [South South East] of Barrock Mill is a grassy
mound with a diameter of some 43' and an
elevation of about 4' which was excavated by
Sir Francis Barrie. It was found to have
been a kiln.
This was a long & tiring day owing to the
strong wind and having to do a good deal
of cross country work for which bicycles
are not well suited. Broad burns & barbed
wire fences are awkward obstructions! It
was 6.30 when I got home.
5 July 1910.
To complete the inspection of the
numerous brochs on the John o' Groats
[Continued on page 118] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-118 |
[Page] 118
[Continued from page 117]
road I hired a car and left at 10.0.
We called at Nybster & picked up John Nicholson
He showed me a beautiful javelin spear head of
bronze, some 4 1/2" long with two side loops
found near Freswick Bridge on the John o' Groats
road.
[Opposite Page]
[Sketch of spear head inserted] --
[Margin] Cup marked Stones
Nybster.
In front of John Nicholson's house at Nybster
are three cup marked stones which he has
brought from various places.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted] --
No. 1. An oval block of freestone from the
Sand broch at Freswick measures 1'.9" in
length by 1'.3" in breadth and 6" in thickness
Irregularly disposed over its surface are
nine cup marks. The largest has a diameter
of 3" and a depth of 1 1/4" - the smallest a diameter
of 1 1/2". The diameters of the other marks average
some 2 1/2".
No. 2. A large irregularly shaped block
of red sandstone, found thrown out from
the ruins of Gills broch Cannisbay by a
man quarrying it for stones. Its length is 2'.6"
& its breadth 1'.3". At the upper end of the
stone is one large oblong cup mark 7 1/2" long
by 5" wide by 2" deep. Beneath it are ten other
marks, circular, the largest of which near the
base on the left measures 3" x 1 1/4" while the
[Continued on page 119] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-119 |
[Page] 119
[Continued from page 118]
others which are less distinct vary in diameter
from 3/4" to 2".
No. 3. This stone which is an oblong flag
measuring 1'.7" by 1'.4" was found in a field
near Nybster. The original surface has flaked
off the stone removing several of the cup marks.
Five, however, still remain visible. They are
placed near together and measure from 1 1/4" to
2 1/2" in diameter. They are said to have been
originally connected in pairs by shallow
grooves which are still in the case of two pairs
faintly visible.
[Margin] Cannisbay
Broch Auckingill
S. [Site]
unnoted.
About 1/4m. [mile] NNW. [North North West] of Auckingill school is the
site of a broch. It has long been under culti:
:vation and nothing is visible.
[Margin] Buchollie Castle
(1)
This castle has been built on a peninsular
rock about 100' in height standing out of the
ocean some 5 ms. [miles] S. [South] of Duncansby Head
& lying parrallel with shore.
The rock is joined to the land by a narrow
neck at its NW [North West] angle which has been cut
through by a trench some 7' wide the bottom
of which is some 9' below the level of the thresh:
:old of the entrance gate. The keep which
rose from the outer edge of this trench has been
of small dimensions measuring apparently
some 14' by 20'. The W. [West] wall to a height of about
[Continued on page 120] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-120 |
[Page] 120
[Continued from page 119]
30' and a portion of the S. [South] wall alone remains.
The walls at the basement are some 4' thick and only
about 2'.6" above that. The Entrance passage, 4'.6"
wide and one apartment to the S. [South] of it occupy the
basement and are vaulted, the first floor has
had a flat roof and the
room above it again has been vaulted. The
entrance passage passing beyond the keep
gave access to a courtyard which was long
and narrow and had buildings on each side
of it. These buildings are for the most part
built with clay.
[Margin] Supplement
from McG. & R.
A kitchen midden of great
extent lies along the top of the cliff to seaward.
[Margin] Ness Broch
(4)
This broch is situated at the landward end of
a high promontory which runs out to sea for a
distance of about 80yds [yards] and of which it occupies
the neck about 25yds. [yards] wide. It was excavated
by Sir Francis Barrie & was described by Dr [Doctor]
Joseph Anderson from whose description the
following details are mainly taken. Across
the neck there is a strong wall about 6' high
with a depression in front of it, in which there
is a well, now filled up, 9'.6" in depth with twelve
steps leading down to it and roofed with flags.
The broch wall has largely gone. There appear
to have been two entrances, one from the SW [South West] now much
[Continued on page 121] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-121 |
[Page] 121
[Continued from page 120]
broken down and another from the E. [East] or seaward. The latter
is through a passage 15'.3" in length 3'.8" in
width at the exterior end and 4'.4" at the interior.
There has been a guard chamber on the left at
about 6'.4" from the outer end the entrance to
which is broken down. There are no signs of
door checks but a sill projects from the floor
of the passage opposite the outer edge of the entrance
to the guard chamber. At 5' back from the
right wall of the entrance passage near the
middle of its length is the back wall of a
chamber 4'.6" wide now of indefinite length.
In it were found two ingots of bronze 4" and 6" in length - several moulds for casting
ingots, a bronze pin, and two links of a
slender chain of bronze. The interior diameter
is 22ft. There are remains of outbuildings
on both sides, but those on the landward
are more extensive & better preserved and seem
to have been continuous with chambers / remains now
cut off by a narrow ravine on the N. [North]
One of the chambers has a tank- like
construction of slabs in the floor and off
the chamber is a recess 9' in length by 6' in
width.
[Margin] Freswick Dovecot.
About 120 yds. [yards] to the W. [West] of Freswick Ho. [House]
is an old circular or bell-shaped dovecot
[Continued on page 122] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-122 |
[Page] 122
[Continued from page 121]
built in two storeys some 20' to 22' in height and having
an opening in the roof for the ingress and egress
of the pigeons. From a height of 7' above the
floor it is lined with stone nests.
The house of Freswick is a tall narrow structure
built on a cruciform plan about the year 1745.
[Margin] Kitchen Middens.
Freswick Bay.
Stretching along Freswick Bay about 1.4m. [mile] N [North] of Freswick
House at a spot known as "The Lady's Brow" are several kitchen middens from which
bone pins and numerous fragments of coarse
undecorated pottery have been recovered.
[Margin] Freswick Sands Broch
(5)
Situated among the sand hills about 1/2m [mile] N. [North] of
Freswick House is a broch the foundations
of which rest on the pure sand. It was
excavated by Sir Francis Barry and described
by Dr [Doctor] Joseph Anderson but it is now in a
very ruinous condition and its features largely
obscured by sand and debris. On excavation
the broch wall was found to be 11'.6" thick
with a scarcement 12" to 18" wide on the inside
It enclosed an interior area 32'.8" in diameter.
The wall was for the greater part of its extent
about 7' high but was partly broken down
on the W. [West] side, where the original entrance
probably had been. Facing to NE. [North East] is still visible
an entrance passage by the foot of the stair
2'.9" wide. There was a chamber at the foot of the
[Continued on page 123] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-123 |
[Page] 123
[Continued from page 122]
stair and fourteen steps of the stair remained.
It passed up to the left from the entrance passage
coming from the exterior the steps growing narrower from
3'.10" in width at the bottom step to 2'.6" at the highest.
At a distance of 17' round to the left from the
inner end of the entrance passage was the opening
to a chamber in the thickness of the wall now
ruinous. This entrance was 2'.3" in width, & 4' in
height and gave access to an oblong chamber
12' in length, 4' in width, and nearly 7' in height.
Directly opposite the entrance on the interior is also the entrance
to a chamber 2'.9" wide, the chamber itself not
now measurable. Two curved walls of
secondary construction roughly divided
the interior area into segments.
There were found in this broch the cup
marked stone now at Nybster (No. 118), an
oval vessel of sandstone with a rudely
hollowed cavity measuring 6" by 4", and
several quern stones.
[Margin] Ruins
Freswick Bay
(unnoted)
Situated about 200yds. [yards] SE. [South East] of the modern
chapel at Freswick there have been exposed
by excavation the ruins of a rectangular
building with walls 4' thick & showing
traces of lime on its inner face. The entrance
has been from the SE. [South East] through a doorway 2'.5" wide
[Continued on page 124] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-124 |
[Page] 124
[Continued from page 123]
Behind the doorjambs near the centre of the thickness
of the wall are bar holes on either side. Over the
floor which was paved was found much
iron slag.
[Margin] Skirsa Head Broch
(6)
This broch was also excavated by Sir Francis
Barry and described by Dr [Doctor] Joseph Anderson. It
is situated on the promontory of Skirsa some
3m [miles] S. [South] of Duncansby Head. Like the brochs of
Nybster and Ness it occupies the neck of the
promontory and is cut off from the land by
a ditch some 30' wide. The broch has had
a circular wall some 14' in thickness enclosing
an area 22' in diameter. On the N. [North] side
where part of the wall has fallen over the
cliff there is a scarcement on the interior
about 2'.9" wide at its widest part.
The entrance passage is from the seaward
end of the promontory. It is 14' in length,
3' in width at the exterior end and has checks
for a door at 8' inwards. Within these it expands
some 6" on either side and thereafter narrows
to about 3' at the inner end. The wall in
the interior is considerably broken down
but still maintains for a short distance a
height of about 5'. At a distance of 16'
round the interior wall to the left of the
[Continued on page 127] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-125 |
[Page] 125
[Continued from page 124]
main entrance is the entrance to the stair in the
thickness of the wall 2'.7" wide with a small chamber
opposite the stair foot. Only two
steps of the stair remained and these are not
now visible. On the right of the entrance to
the stair in the interior court is a tank-like
construction sunk in the floor 3'.8" long, 1'.9" broad
and 2' deep covered with slabs and adjacent to
the N. [North] is another of similar dimensions. In the
centre of the interior area was a hearth
covered with ashes. The wall on the exterior is about 2' in height. As well as a portion
of the broch wall a part of the outbuildings has
also fallen over the cliff forming the N [North] side of
the promontory. On the seaward side of the
broch to the S. [South] of the entrance is an irregularly
shaped chamber or well measuring across the top
some 10' by 7' and some 10' in depth with a drain
leading into it from the S. [South] This well-like cavity
still retains water. In one of the out:
:buildings on the right of the entrance was found
a palmated horn of the true elk (Alces Malchis)
There were also found quern stones, several flat
circular discs of slaty stone, and a number
of pounders, oblong pebbles wasted at the ends
by use.
Above the cliffs the S. [South] side of the goe which flanks the
[Continued on page 126] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-126 |
[Page] 126
[Continued from page 125]
promontory on which the broch stands and
at its landward end is a group of stones some
square in section some oblong extending over
an area of about 25' by 16'. There appear to be
the remains of four rows roughly set in alignment some 3' - 4' apart. The
stones vary in breadth from 1' to 2', project about
the same amount above ground and are
from 2'.5" to 4' apart. Their object is not
apparent.
[Margin] Everley Broch at Tofts of Freswick.
(8)
This broch which is situated on the E [East] side
of the high road to John o' Groats about
1m [mile] to the NNW. [North North West] of Freswick House was also
excavated by Sir Francis Barry. Since
then it has been much quarried into and
in great measure removed. The entrance
has been from the WSW [West South West] but the passage
walls are now gone. The interior diameter
is 29' and the thickness of the wall 15'.6"
No chambers are visible. The outbuildings were
not excavated.
[Margin] Cairn
Warth Hill.
(13)
Crowning the summit of the Warth Hill a
conspicuous eminence 2m. [miles] to the S. [South] of the
John o' Groats Hotel is a large cairn now
considerably dilapidated. It has a diameter
of some 57'. On the S. [South] along the outer
edge are exposed a number of large blocks
[Continued on page 127] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-127 |
[Page] 127
[Continued from page 126]
of stone, nearly contiguous, laid on their sides
measuring from 2' to 4' in length and 1' to 1'.6"
in height. and some 6' in from the edge placed
apparently concentrically with the former are a
number of large stones set point upwards. These
settings of stones are not visible on the N. [North] side.
Some 17' in from the edge on the S. [South] there has been
exposed a rectangular cist or chamber which
seems to have measured about 4' sq. [square] and a
few feet to the SW. [South West] of it a slight hollow was
pointed out by Nicholson as the site of Dr. [Doctor]
Anderson's excavation in which he said a
stone hammer was found.
[Margin] Stemster Broch (S)
10.
Proceeding onwards to John o' Groats Nicholson
pointed out to me the site of this broch. Nothing
measurable remains. Nor is there anything
to be seen of the cairn marked on Barry's map
at Seater.
[Margin] John o' Groats Ho. [House] (S).
Nicholson showed me the spot where he ex:
:cavated the ruins of what he believed to be
John o' Groat's House. It is now marked by the
flagstaff in front of the door of the hotel.
He found the foundations of a rectangular
house & no sign of the octagon!
This was a lovely day but there was rather
too much to observe & make note of to
[Continued on page 128] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-128 |
[Page] 128
[Continued from page 127]
permit me thoroughly to enjoy it. We had tea
at John o' Groats and motored home getting
back just in time for dinner. John
Nicholson is one of the most amusing characters
I have met in my wanderings. He is a
small farmer at Nybster, who has somewhat
neglected farming, it is said, for archaeology,
and makes ends meet by carting ice
and salmon. By nature he is an artist.
He can draw, paint and sculpture. Though
amateurish his pictures are full of humour and
character, and his drawings of antiquities
neat and accurate. He assisted & encouraged
Sir Francis Barry in his excavations, super:
:intended all the work and made the plans
receiving so I am told 2/6d [£0.2.6] per day! He is
a tall lythe man between 50 & 60, with brown
hair, blue eyes twinkling with merriment
and a bronzed complexion. In his con:
:versation pronouns & articles
are freely dispensed with as superfluous and
his descriptions of interviews in the acquisition
of relics delightfully humorous. eg. how he
carted off the Ackengill "Ogham" stone to Keiss
for Dr [Doctor] Anderson's inspection or how with
the help of a bottle of liquor he was allowed
[Continued on page 129] |
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[Page] 129
[Continued from page 128]
to remove another from the wall of a chimney at
Latheron. He is one of the best known men in the
county and Caithness is much indebted to him
for the exploitation of its ancient structures.
6th July 1910.
Engaged all forenoon trying to write
up arrears. After luncheon bicycled S. [South] to Ulbster.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
[Margin] Standing Stone
Ulbster School
(60)
Just outside the wall of the playground adjoining
Ulbster school, at its NW. [North West] angle is a large standing
stone. It is a flat block of blue flag 6'.6" in
height above ground. 3' in breadth and at base
2'.8" at apex and 1'.4" in thickness. It faces
NNW [North North West] and SSE [South South East].
[Margin] Broch.
Ulbster
(59)
At the end of a cottage some 100yds [yards] S. [South] of
Ulbster School and near the high road is a
mound which probably covers the remains of a
broch. It has been much quarried. The
diameter over all is 66' and that of a circular
depression in the centre which probably marks
the interior court is 21'. The elevation of the
mound is from 4' to 5'.
[Margin] Mound
Ulbster.
(61)
Some 300yds [yards] ENE [East North East] of Ulbster School is a
grassy knoll whose character is not evident.
It measures in diameter 110' from N. to S. [North to South] by 95'
from E. to W. [East to West]. Its highest elevation is about
8' and their is no depression on the summit.
[Margin] St. Martins Chapel (S)
(75)
The site of St. Martins Chapel in an old
[Continued on page 130] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-130 |
[Page] 130
[Continued from page 129]
graveyard to the S. [South] of Mains of Ulbster is occupied
by a mausoleum of the Sinclairs of Ulbster.
[Opposite Page]
[Photograph inserted]
This structure measuring some 22' square
across the walls has a roof of an ogee outline
carried to a point which is surmounted by a
cone bearing a weather vane pierced with initials
I ? H. S (the central letter now imperfect) and the date 1700.
A flight of nine broad
steps leads up to the door of the mausoleum.
On the E [East] wall is a panel bearing an inscrip:
:tion now largely effaced.
. . . . WHO - DESIRES - AN . . . .
. . . . SIGHT - TO - SEE - COME - IN - BEH . . . .
. . . .THOU - ERE - LONG - MU . . . .
[Margin] Armorial Stone.
Within the farm house of Ulbster Mains is
an old fireplace in the centre of which is a
carved panel, bearing the following arms
Quarterly 1st & 4th - the Sinclair galley. 2nd & 3rd a
lion rampant. Over all a cross engrailed. In
the 4th quarter the letters IMS. Adjoining, a
small rectangular compartment is charged
with three boars' heads erased above the
letters I C.
7 July 1910
(See Vol 11)
[Continued on page 131] |
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| gb0551ms-36-17-131 |
[Page 131]
MS/36/17
A. O. Curle.
29 St. Andrew Square.
Edinburgh. |
|
| gb0551ms-36-17-132 |
[Page] 132
[INDEX]
A.
Aclierole. -- 17.
Auckingill. -- 24. 119.
Achingall Broch -- 34.
Ackergill -- 42. 69.
Ackkeepster -- 73.
Achanarras -- 78.
Achlachan Moss -- 81.
Achies -- 90.
Achairn -- 108.
Ashlys Cairn -- 115.
B.
Backlass -- 12.
Bilbster -- 14. 58
Bauks of Watten -- 17.
Brigand's Swine House. -- 29.
Battle Moss -- 36.
Borrowstoun -- 45. 76.
Brownaben -- 45. 74.
Bannis Kirk -- 78.
Broadhaven -- 98.
Bower -- 101.
Brabster Moss. -- 102.
Barrock -- 115.
Bucholly Castle -- 119. |
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[Page] 133
[Continued from page 132]
C.
Castle of Old Wick -- 7.
Cairn of Dunn -- 11
Cuckoo Hill -- 17.
Carn a Chladha -- 18.
Cogle Broch -- 21.
Carn-na-mairg Broch -- 86.
Cannisby. -- 94.
Camster -- 101. 107.
D.
Dunn -- 11. 78.
Dunbeath Castle -- 70.
Dale -- 83. |
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[Page] 134
[Continued from page 133]
E.
Elsey -- 99.
F.
Flex Hill -- 35. 105.
Fairy Hillock -- 59.
Freswick. -- 121. |
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[Page] 135
[Continued from page 134]
G.
Gausclet -- 3.
Gersa -- 21. 27.
Greenhill -- 32.
Greystones -- 54.
Girnigoe -- 111.
Gunns Hillock -- 116.
H.
Haster -- 2.
Hempriggs --6. 59.
Humster -- 10.
Hill Fort at Farhouse -- 54.
Halsary -- 73.
Halkirk -- 73.
Heathercro Cairn -- 102.
Hacro -- 103.
Hill of Works - broch. -- 117. |
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[Page] 136
[Continued from page 135]
J.
John. O-Groats House -- 127.
K.
Killimster -- 28. 33. 35.
Kirk-o-Moss -- 28.
Keiss -- 56. 61. 97
Keiss Castle -- 68.
Knockglass -- 72. |
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[Page] 137
[Continued from page 136]
L.
Lynegar -- 25.
Latheron -- 70. 110.
M.
Mybster -- 74. 81. |
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[Page] 138
[Continued from page 137]
Mc.
McColes Castle -- 48
N.
Nybster -- 91.
Noss Head -- 114.
Ness Broch -- 120. |
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[Page] 139
[Continued from page 138]
O.
Old Hall. -- 11.
Oslie Cairn -- 24.
Ormiegill Cairn -- 75.
P.
Pullyhour -- 90.
Papigoe -- 98. |
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[Page] 140
[Continued from page 139]
Q.
Road Broch - Keiss -- 64.
R.
Road Brock Keiss. -- 64.
Ring of Castle Hill -- 115. |
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[Page] 141
[Continued from page 140]
S.
Saint Cuthbert's Church -- 2.
Stemster -- 7.
Sibster House -- 16.
Scouthal Wood -- 17.
Scottay -- 21.
Stirkoke -- 23.
Stone Hone -- 25.
Strath Burn -- 34.
St Ninians Font -- 60.
Spital -- 72. 80.
St Magnus -- 80.
St Trostan's chapel -- 89.
Sgarbach -- 94.
Stroupster -- 96.
Staxigoe -- 99
Stone Lud. -- 102.
Scorriclet. -- 106.
Shorelands -- 111.
St Tear's Chapel -- 111.
Sinclair Castle -- 111.
Skirza Head Broch -- 124.
Stemster -- 127.
St Martin's Chapel. -- 130.
T.
Tannach -- 2.
Thrumster -- 3.
Toddy Hillock -- 24.
Thuster Broch. -- 69. 98.
Toftingall -- 73
Thurso River -- 87.
Tulach au Thuarain -- 89. |
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[Page] 142
[Continued from page 141]
U.
Ulbster -- 75. 129.
V. |
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[Page] 143
[Continued from page 142]
W.
Wick Castle -- 8.
Watten -- 10. 20. 72. 105.
Wester Watten -- 13.
Warehouse -- 50.
White Gate Brock -- 63.
Warth Hill. -- 126.
Y.
Yarrows -- 36. 47. |
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