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[Page] 1
Parish of St Andrews
Sheet 4
Index
[Column 1]
Names of Objects -- Pages
Parish of St Andrews -- 4
Abbey Walk -- 51
Abbey Mill -- 53
Abbey Cottage -- 54
Abbey Wall -- 55
Burn Stools -- 50
Castle Street -- 7
Castle (Ruins of) -- 9
Cathedral (Ruins of) -- 31
Dane's Wark -- 29
East Bents -- 49
East Sands -- 49
Gas Works -- 41
Greenside Place -- 58
[Column 2]
Names of Objects -- Pages
High Altar -- 30
Holy Well -- 41
Hind Rock -- 42
Headless Men -- 43
Harbour Tavern -- 50
Kirk Heugh -- 44
Lady's Chapel -- 28
Lady's Craig -- 43
Long Rock -- 43
Market Street -- 7
North Street -- 6
Priory House -- 38
Pends Lane -- 42
Remains of Priory -- 14
Seaview -- 5
St Andrew's Chapel -- 59
[Column 3]
Names of Objects -- Pages
Site of Priory -- 15
St Regulus's Chapel & Tower -- 22
Site of New Inn -- 39
Shore Mill -- 42
Site of St Mary's Church -- 44
Site of Grave Yard -- 47
Shore Bridge Toll Bar -- 54
The Scores -- 5
The Pends -- 38
The Shore -- 50
Teinds Barn -- 53
U.P. [United Presbyterian] Church -- 6
Place where Wishart was Burned (1546) -- 13
[Column 4]
Names of Objects -- Pages
66500 (7
462
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Index Page ruled for four Columns of "Names of Objects" each with an associated column "Pages", but only the first three columns have actually been filled out, although a set of pencilled figures appear in Column 4. |
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[Page] 4
Parish of St Andrews -- St Andrews -- Parish of St Andrews -- See Name Book for Plan 12 B. |
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THE SCORES |
The Scores
The Scores
The Scores |
David Scott St Andrews
John McDonald St Andrews
Plan of St Andrews 1848 |
012 |
[Situation] between the Union Club House and the castle of St Andrews.
A Road which extends from the North end of castle Street to the Martyrs monument. It is the principal promenade of the Town and has seats fixed on it for the accommodation of parties wishing to rest themselves |
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SEAVIEW |
Seaview
Seaview |
Mr Thom Seaview St Andrews
David Scott Keeper of Cathedral St Andrews |
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[Situation] About 5 chains West of the castle of St Andrews.
A well constructed house four stories high with large vegetable garden attached. It is beautifully situated on the south side of The Scores and within a short distance of the Public Baths The chief entrance [--] is from North Street etc. It is the property and residence of Mr Thom |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 1 |
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UNITED PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH [North Street] |
United Presbyterian Church |
Rev [Reverend]Mr Kidd South St [Street] St Andrews
John Ramsay Inspector of Poor St Andrews |
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[Situation] On the south side of North Street and about 9 chains W.S.W. [West South West] of the Castle of St Andrews.
A rectangular building on the South side of North Street. Kept as a place of worship for persons professing the principles of United Presbyterianism, it is seated to contain about 500, is well attended and has yearly communicants to the number of about 250. The officiating Minister is the Rev Mr Kidd who receives a salary of 110 pounds per annum - |
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NORTH STREET |
North Street |
John Ramsay St Andrews
Mr Cruikshanks Post Master St Andrews |
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[Situation] Between Bell St [Street] and the Wall which surrounds the Cathedral burial ground.
A street extending from the Burial ground to Bell Street, with houses on each side varying from one to three stories in height The eastward portion of the street is inhabited chiefly by fishermen, mechanics and labourers and the westward is occupied in general by respectable families |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 1
[Signed] John Early ca [Civilian Assistant] |
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CASTLE STREET |
Castle Street |
John Ramsay Poor Inspector St Andrews
John McDonald Castle Street |
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[Situation] Between South St [Street] and the Castle of St Andrews.
A narrow street extending from South Street to the old Castle, is well paved and lighted with gas. The houses on each side are irregularly built varying from one to two stories in height and chiefly occupied by mechanics, Fishermen and labourers |
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MARKET STREET |
Market Street |
John Ramsay Inspector of poor St Andrews
Rev Mr Lyon St Andrews |
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[Situation] Between Castle St [Street] and the City Road.
This street extends from the west side of castle Street to the City Road on the west side of the Town The houses on each side are well built and occupied by shopkeepers Innkeepers and other respectable families The Town house and Market place are about the Centreways in the street there are also two respectable Inns one on the North and the other on the South sides of the street and both directly opposite the Townhouse |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 1
[Signed] John Early |
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The castle
"The castle od St Andrews is situated about 250 yards to the northward of the Cathedral, on an eminence immediately overhanging the sea. It was first erected about the beginning of the 13th century by the bishop of that period as a place of residence for himself and his successors in office. After standing nearly a century and a half it fell into the hands of the English and was subsequently besieged taken and demolished by the Scottish forces. It lay in ruins for half a century during which period the bishop resided within the monastery and it was rebuilt by bishop Trail near the close of the fourteenth century. It is affirmed that James lll [third] was born in it in 1460. After the murder of Cardinal Beaton and the subsequent siege it was dismantled to a considerable extent but the injury was in a great measure repaired a few years afterwards by Archbishop Hamilton and was occasionally occupied by succeeding Archbishops until the period of the civil wars when it became uninhabitable and the priory having been annexed to the Archbishoprick in 1638 the prelates who held the see after the Restoration resided within the monastery in the building denominated the New Inn. The Castle when entire formed a quadrangle with a court in the interior of considerable dimensions. But with the exceptions of a part of the south wall including a handsome square tower and a few other fragments it is entirely in ruins. The sea within these few years has made considerable encroachments on the east wing and the northern division will probably ere long share the same fate". Stat. Acct [Statistical Account] of Co. [County] Fife p [page] 45 |
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Continuation of Description for Castle, for rest of transcription see Page 9. |
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CASTLE (Ruins of) |
Castle
Castle
The Castle
Castle |
Rev [Reverend]M. Lyons St Andrews
John McDougal Keeper of the Castle
Lyons Hist. [History] St Andrews
Plan of St Andrews 1843 |
012 |
[Situation] On the North side of St Andrews and erected on the Margin of St Andrews Bay.
An interesting ruin which stands on a small promontory situate between the North end of Castle Street and the sea by which it is at present washed on the North and east sides It is said to have been erected by Roger Bishop of St Andrews about the year 1200, but was afterwards greatly improved and beautified by his successors. It was taken by Edward lll but was shortly afterwards retaken by Murray of Borthwell in conjunction with the Earls of March and Fife who entered it in three weeks by battering machines and entirely demolished it fearing it would again fall into the hands of the English. It was afterwards repaired and is said to have been the birthplace of James lll. Cardinal Beaton greatly improved and beautified the castle. It was at a window at the SE [South East] corner where his body was exposed to the gaze of the multitude after his murder by Norman Leslie and his companions. These persons kept possession of the Castle for a time until they were forced to surrender to the commander of the French troops who were then in Scotland. It was at one time surrounded by a deep ditch over which there was a drawbridge on the South side by which the castle was entered |
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[Page] 9
Sheet 2 Trace 1 St Andrews Parish
See Also Name Book for Sheet No. [Number] 2
"Roger, son to Robert Beamont Earl of Leicester is chancellor; he built the Castle of St Andrews: died 9th July 1202" Sibbald's Hist. [History] of Fife p. [page] 247 |
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See also Pages 8, 10 and 12 for additional Description. |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 1
Castle (in Ruins) (Continued) [Name column] -- Castle, Castle [Spelling column] -- Rev Mr Lyon St Andrews John McDonald Keeper of the castle [Authorities] -- On the north side of the city of St Andrews and built on the edge of St Andrews Bay [Situation column]
[Description continues]
It is in the form of a square and has a large Courtyard at the inside which is called the Castle yard The sea is making great encroachments on it at the present time the coast wall is entirely washed away. The only portions of the Castle now standing are the North and South sides. The window where cardinal Beaton was shown to the multitude after his murder and the dungeon where Wishart and others were confined are still pointed out. The former at the SE [South East] corner and the latter at the NW [North West] of the building It is the property of the Crown but at what time it got into its possession is not known There is a person appointed by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests to take care of the building who also points out to all Visitors the most remarkable parts of the building |
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Continuation of Description of Castle. As Name appears on Page 9 the entries in other columns have bee transcribed under "Continued entries" |
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Parish of St Andrews
The Castle
"This structure which answered the threefold purpose of an episcopal palace a fortress and a state prison was founded by Roger bishop of St Andrews in the year 1200 as a residence for himself and his successors by whom it is frequently called in official documents, nostrum palatium. It was often besieged taken and demolished or dismantled and as often repaired or rebuilt, during the various civil and foreign wars which prevailed from the time of its erection down to the revolution. The first time the castle of St Andrews was taken and garrisoned by the English was probably in July or August 1298 immediatelyafter the battle of Falkirk on which occasion we are told that Edward l "Wasted Andrews full plane" etc etc
"Thus have we seen this celebrated structure used for every variety of purpose and the theatre of nearly every variety of spectacle - a palace of bishops and a dungeon for the confinement of heretics, at one time a scene of hospitality revelry and mirth at another of stratagem and murder taken in succession by the English the French and the Scotch the birthplace of one King the assylum [asylum] of a second and the council chamber of two others, an object of contention among ambitious churchmen now besieged pillaged & demolished then rebuilt and fortified the dungeon alternately of the virtuous and the criminal the reformed and the unreformed; the place of one preacher's imprisonment and death and of anothers controversy and capture; a witness at once of the bravery of soldiers and the profligacy of assassins, a place of refuge for princes from their refractory barons and lastly [continued] |
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Continuation of Description of Castle - main entry Page 9 |
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a fortress in which loyal subjects were incarcerated, before being led out to execution as sheep to the slaughter by covenanting rebels"
"On the northwestern angle of the quadrangular ruins where the sea tower stood may be seen a circular dungeon twenty five feet in depth in which imagination has confined the martyrs Hamilton and Wishart and where it is not improbable prisoners of inferior rank were formerly secured. It passes through a seam of coal and increases as it descends" Lyons Hist. [History] of St Andrews vol. [volume] ll [2] p/ [page] 166 & 177 |
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Continuation of Description of castle, main entry Page 9 |
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PLACE WHERE WISHART WAS BURNED (1546) |
Place where Wishart was Burned |
John McDonald Castle Street
John Ramsay Inspector of Poor St Andrews |
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[Situation] At the north end of Castle Street. This is the place pointed out by tradition where George Wishart was burned in the year 1546 The place was pointed out to me by John McDonald, Keeper of the Castle of St Andrews, he was born and reared in the locality and is now an old man For further particulars see Lyon's history of St Andrews. Also New Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] etc |
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Remains of PRIORY |
Prior's House (Remains of)
Priors Ho. [House] in Ruins
Priory (Remains of)
Priory (Remains of) |
David Scott Cathedral Keeper St Andrews
Woods Map of St Andrews 1820
Rev [Reverend]C.J. Lyon St Andrews
Rev [Reverend] Dr Buist St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] About 2 chains S. [South] East of St Regulus chapel and Tower.
A portion of an old building, a short distance East of Priory House Said to be the house occupied by the different priors of St Andrews It is at present in a ruinous condition and apparently falling very fast to decay
"In the vicinity of the Cathedral stood the priory or Augustine Monastery founded by bishop Robert in 1144. John Hepburn prior of St Andrews about the year 1516 surrounded the north-east and south sides with a magnificent wall which is still pretty entire and is nearly half a mile in extent" Fullarton's Gazetteer of Scotland |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2
The Rev [Reverend] Mr Lyon says this should be written Priory (Remains of) as no part of the Prior's house [--] exists, and what particular part of the priory this is cannot now be determined (Signed) J McDiarmid C. Asst. [Civilian Assistant]
[Signed] John Early |
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The additional information beginning "The Rev Mr Lyon" is written in faint red ink across several columns, but appears to refer to the modes of spelling.
That part of Description beginning "In the vicinity" is written across all columns at foot of page but seems intended as part of Description and has been transcribed there. |
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Site of PRIORY |
Priory of St Andrews (Site of)
Priory of St Andrews (Site of)
Priory of St Andrews |
Rev [Reverend]Mr Lyon A.M. [Master of Arts]
Mr William Scott St Andrews
Leightons Histoory
Leighton's Hist. [History] of Fife |
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[Situation] Between the Cathedral and the Priory House.
The priory of St Andrews was founded by Bishop Robert prior of Cannons Regular of the order of St Augustine and was most liberally endowed it stood immediately S [South] of the Cathedral and consisted of a quadrangle formed by the "Sinzie Hall" or "Sub-priors' house" on the west. The "Cloisters" stood in the centre - the refectory on the south side of the Cloisters or dining room of the canons, said to have been 108 feet long by 28 feet broad - The vestiary formed the east part of the Cloister - on the east the dormitory and Chapter house and on the south the Priors House. (For a full description of the Priory see History of Fife vol. [volume] 2 p. [page] 23) Scarcely a vestige now remains and the exact site of any cannot be traced -
"In the vicinity of the cathedral were various buildings connected with the priory or Augustine monastery which was founded during the reign of Alexander l near the commencement of the twelfth century by Robert bishop of St Andrews and which ultimately accommodated no less than thirty four conventual brethren besides the necessary domestics. Martine states that at the period when his Reliquise were composed or about 150 years ago some of these buildings were [continued] |
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Sheet 4 Trace 2 St Andrews |
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Description continues on Pages 16, 17, 18 and 19 |
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Sheet 4 Trace 4 St Andrews
Contd [Continued] from last Page
were still entire and that of others considerable remains still existed. In the interval however which has elapsed since that period a great change has taken place. Most of them have now entirely disappeared the materials of which they were composed having been removed and applied to various purposes, And as nearly the whole of the areas has been converted into garden ground even the site of several of them can now scarcely be ascertained. The original erecting connected with this establishment appear to have been comparatively of a very limited description and as its wealth and its resources increased the extent of its buildings was enlarged. At the commencement of the fifteenth century they were so arranged as to form two courts, and James Bisset the prior at that period is represented as having paved both. in the days of Martine so far as a judgment may be formed from his description the plan of the buildings must have been very irregular. According to Boethine this monastery was excelled by none in Europe either in respect to the extent of its accommodations or the beauty of its architecture. A considerable portion of what is denominated the Abbey Wall which surrounded and enclosed the whole is still in existence, it appears to have been nearly half a mile in extent about 4 feet in thickness and 20 feet in height. It had originally sixteen towers or turrets interspersed at irregular distances projecting outward several feet and rising a few feet higher than the general level of the wall. It was erected by John Hepburn the prior soon after the commencement of the 16th Century" etc New Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] of Fife p. [page] 466-7 |
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Continuation of Description for site of Priory. This further continues on Page 17.
An entry on this page for "High Altar" has been scored out. |
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[Page] 17
Parish of St Andrews
The Priory of St Andrews was founded by bishop during the reign of David l. Robert had been prior of the Canon regular of the order of St Augustine at Scone and he determined to found a monastery of the same order at St Andrews As soon therefore as the Cloister and part of the houses were built he brought some of the monks of Scone to his new foundation and he appointed Robert a Canon of the Church of St Oswald in England the first prior. Bishop Robert liberally endowed the monastery and he obtained from the King a grant to it of the Culdean monastery of Loch Leven. From its institution till the reformation there were in all twenty-five priors many of whom added to its buildings or procured additions to its revenues One of these William de Loudon covered says Fordun the whole dormitory with a magnificent roof beneath with polished planks and above with lead. He also roofed the old Church of St Regulus the eastern chamber, four sides of the Cloister and the south part of the refectory. James Bisset, prior during the time of bishop Thomas Stewart furnished according to the same authority the monastery with "New granaries mills calefactories piggeries barns and stables and provided the two apartments of the guest-hall with pillars and glass windows. He paved the exterior and interior court of the monastery and supplied its church as well as all the churches dependent upon it with vestries robes for the priests and other useful ornaments" James Haldenstown another prior furnished the vestry with fresh reliques repaired the old ones and erected presses for [continued] |
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Continuation of Description for Site of Priory. Further continues on Page 18. |
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[Page] 18
containing them. He also paved the floor of the Chapter House and repaired the farm houses belonging to the monastery. Prior Hepburn built the extensive wall still mostly remaining round the monastery and the College of St Leonards which he founded. It altogether enclosed a space of about 20 acres which formed the precinct of the monastery. It is 20 feet in height and about 870 feet in length and is defended by thirteen round or square towers at different intervals, on each of which there is one or two richly carved canopied niches. It has three gateways and in several parts may be seen the name and initials of the prior with his motto "Ad Vitam". One of these has the date 1520 on one of the turrets there is an inscription now scarcely legible but which seems to imply that the prior had carried on some improvements in the harbour which his predecessor had commenced. Leighton's Hist. [History] of Fife vol [volume] lll [3] pp [pages] 20, 21
The buildings of the monastery were situated on the south side of the cathedral and were with the precinct enclosed by the wall erected by prior Hepburn. Scarcely any of them however remains. The Cloister occupied the ground immediately south of the nave of the Cathedral and formed a large quadrangle in which the great fair called the Senzie Market was held and from which there was entrance by two doors to the Cathedral, the steps of the one at the west being still to be seen. It is now converted into a garden. On the west side of the Cloister was Senzie house, Senzie hall, or Senzie chamber, called also the house of the Sub-prior. It was quite entire in Martine's time and contained several rooms [continues] |
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Continuation of Description for Site of Priory |
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"The refractory or fratery stood on the south side of the cloister and was a fine large room about 108 feet long by 28 feet broad which formed the dining hall of the Canons. Its west gable says Martine contained a fine large Gothic window which with other parts of the buildings have long disappeared its site being now a garden. The vestiary formed the eastern side of the cloister and east of it and in a line with the south transept was the dormitory, where the monks had their sleeping apartments. East of the dormitory was the chapter house in which meetings of the Chapter were held, and adjoining it on the South east the "Hospitium Vetus" or "Old Inn" the residence of the prior and probably at an earlier period of the archbishop. The guest-hall, or magna aula Hospitium, the strangers large hall, stood within what was afterwards the precinct of St Leonards College on the south-west side of the road which leads from the principal gate of the monastery to the shore. Here pilgrims and other strangers who visited St Andrews from devotion or other purposes were entertained at the expense of the monks. The New Inn or Novum Hospitium was last erected of the buildings within the monastery. It is said to have erected as a residence for the Queen of James V and was erected in the space of one month. It formed the residence of the archbishops after the annexation of the priory to the see. The tiend barn still in use stands a few yards south of the site of the New Inn and the Abbey miln a short way south of it. The granary which was a large building three stories high, stood 20 or 30 yards north-east of the new Inn" Ibid. pp [pages] 21, 22 |
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Further continuation of Description for Site of Priory |
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[Page] 20
Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2
See note page 22
[Spelling]
St Regulus' Chapel (Ruins of)
St Regulus' Chapel (Ruins of)
St Regulus's Church
St Regulus's Church
[Authority]
Rev Mr Lyon St Andrews
David Scott Keeper at St Andrews
Lyon's Hist. [History] of St Andrews
Plan 1828 by J. Sime
[Description]
A small rectangular building adjoining the east side of St Regulus Tower which is said to have been the Cathedral Church belonging to the Culdees, of the date of its erection nothing is comparatively known. It is traditionally stated to have been built at, or immediately after the introduction of Christianity into St Andrews by St Regulus and his companions which was about the 4th or 5th Century
"The chapel and Tower of St Regulus are understood to be the most ancient relics of ecclesiastical architecture that exist at St Andrews. The date of their erection cannot be correctly ascertained but most ancient of our Scottish historians speak of them as existing in their times and indeed as having already existed for several centuries at the period when they wrote. Some contend that they were erected as early as the close of the fourth century of the Christian era by the Pictish King in whose territory they were situated, at the suggestion of St Regulus by whom he had been converted to the belief of Christianity, and their appearance seems fully to warrant the conclusion that they must have been erected prior to the introduction of the Saxon or Gothic architecture. The tower whose sides form a square of about 20 feet each and which is 108 in elevation appears to have formed the centre of the erection. Its appendages were two wings one to the east and the other to the west the corresponding sides of the tower having large doors or openings by which the three divisions might according to choice form but one apartment. But even in this extended state the dimensions of the church or chapel must have been [--]
[Signed] John Early CA [Civilian Assistant] |
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Entries on this page relate to St Regulus Chapel (Ruins of). Main entry is on Page 22. |
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[Page] 21
small as its whole length would not much exceed 70 feet while its breadth would vary from 14 to 20 feet. The walls of apartment or chapel on the east of the tower have been put in a good state of repair, but the west wing has long been entirely destroyed. Yet from the traces of the roof on the side of the tower and from what is understood to have been put in a representation of the fabric on the seals of the ancient charters connected with the priory many of which still exist, the existence of the west wing at some former period seems to be incontrovertibly established. The chapel and tower which remain are in good preservation and with a little attention may be kept in that for many centuries to come. The tower was covered about fifty years ago with a flat leaden roof and a small staircase of stone was then also constructed within it so that there is now access to the summit from which there [is] an extensive and beautiful prospect when the weather is favourable". Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] of Fifeshire 1845 |
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Continuation of description of St Regulus Chapel and Tower from Page 20. See Page 22 for main entry. |
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Ruins of ST REGULUS'S CHAPEL AND TOWER |
St Regulus' Tower
St Regulus' Tower
Chapel and Tower of St Regulus
St Regulus's Church & Tower |
David Scott Keeper of Cathedral
Rev [Reverend]Mr Lyon St Andrews
Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] 1845
Lyon's Hist. [History] of St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] About 2 chains South East of the Cathedral of St Andrews.
A square Tower at the eastern end of the Cathedral which is about 110 feet in height and is ascended to the top my means of a flight of stone steps, as to the date of its erection it cannot be properly ascertained, as the writings of different individuals concerning it will show, some ascribing to it one date and some another Strangers visiting St Andrews generally go to the top of the Tower in order to have a view of the Town and surrounding Country ~
The general opinion concerning the date of building of this Chapel and Tower appears to be that it as old as the days of St Regulus or Rule. This opinion is expressed by the intelligent in that neighbourhood, see also Lyon's History of St Andrews. In according with this general belief the explanatory phrase "14th Century - supposed" is written on plan -
It is further to be noted that although the tower is properly part of the Church or Chapel but it being the principal object at present and most remarkable in the landscape and besides it is often spoken of and also in writing as the principal object it is therefore written on plan in the form above recommended. |
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[Page] 22
Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2
For Descriptive Remarks of this Chapel see page 22 [red ink below Name]
[Signed] John Early |
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See also preceding and following pages for additional Description |
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[Page] 23
Parish of St Andrews
St Regulus's Chapel and Tower
"Besides these buildings the ancient chapel of St Regulus stands within what was the precinct of the monastery. The period at which this building was erected is quite unknown but an antiquity has been given to it from the circumstance of its being dedicated to St Regulus which is quite absurd. That it is of great antiquity is quite indisputable and it is probable that was erected about the close of the eleventh or beginning of the twelfth Century. It seems to have been the ancient Cathedral of the monastery where the Culdees when they founded the Chapter of the See performed the stated worship. After the institution of the Priory the canons appeared to have obtained possession of it as they ultimately did of other rights and properties of their predecessors and in it they no doubt small as it now appears performed the Cathedral worship until a sufficient portion of the cathedral founded by bishop Arnald was completed to accommodate them If we may judge from the fact of bishop Roger who died in 1202 and was a cousin of the King being buried within it we would be inclined to think that it still formed the Cathedral Church in the commencement of the thirteenth century. It was no [continues] |
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doubt then to the high altar in the church of St Regulus that Alexander l brought his " comely Steed of Araby saddled and bridled costly [--]" and caused with great pomp to be led round it on the occasion of his granting extensive lands and privileges to the church and here in all probability Ethelred Earl of Fife son of Malcolm lll was buried near the close of the eleventh century. In this ancient structure we may trace the rich origin of the form of cathedral churches, viz a nave and choir with a central tower. All that now remains is the tower and the chapel or choir to the east, but from the marks on the west side of the tower there is sufficient evidence of the fact of there having existed an anti-chapel or chancel serving the purpose of a nave. In corroboration of this several old impressions of seals attached to the city and college charters represent this anti-chapel with a smaller tower at its west end and both towers being surmounted with short spires. There was a large arched door which communicated between the chancel and eastern chapel or choir but which has now been built up. The chapel which remains is about 31 1/2 feet in length by 25 feet in breadth and has four windows, two on the north and two on the South. The largest arched door at the eastern end by which it is now entered was no doubt formerly a window; which gave light to the altar placed before it. The tower is a square of 28 feet at its base and is 100 feet in height. In 1789 it was repaired at the expense of the exchequer the top covered with lead and a winding stair built in the inside by which any one can ascend to the top from which there is an extensive view. The whole of this venerable structure which cannot be less than 700 years old is built of a very durable grey Sandstone"* etc, etc
* The ideal antiquity which has been ascribed to this chapel would make it about 1400 years old" see Leighton's Hist. [History] of Fife voll. [volume] lll [3] pp [pages] 22, 23 [continues] |
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Continuation of Description for St Regulus Chapel and Tower |
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St Regulus's Church and Tower
"This is supposed to be the most ancient edifice in Scotland perhaps in Great Britain. It is situated thirty five yards south-east of the Cathedral. The tower is square and about 108 feet in height. The walls consist of well hewn stones the space between them which is filled up with lime now so hardened as to be now more difficult to cut than the stones themselves. The arches of the doors and windows are semi circular approaching to the horse shoe form. This building was repaired in 1789 at the expense of the Exchequer and a winding stair completed from the bottom to the top the whole being roofed with lead within a stone parapet four feet high. The edifice can scarcely pretend to the antiquity which Boethius ascribes to it but its simple its simple [sic] architecture shows it to have been erected long before the introduction of what is called the Gothic Style. We may reasonably conjecture that it was constructed in the seventh or eight [eighth] century soon after the foundation of the Culdean monastery near which it stood and the church of which it no doubt was. The tower is built of a remarkably durable stone which is not now found in any of the quarries near St Andrews nor has it ever been known from whence it was procured. There are still the walls of the church remaining on the east side of the tower beyond which there was a chancel as appears from the annexed plan of the town as it stood before the reformation. There was also an anti-chapel on the west for of the sloping roof of this building a distinct trace may be seen on the wall of the tower and a complete view of it is represented on several impressions of seals attached to the city and college charters. The same seals represent a small turret [continues] |
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at the western extremity of this ante-chapel or it may be two turrets as from the manner in which they are placed, the one perhaps conceals the other and on these as well as on the large tower are short spires like those we see on the town and college church steeples. This edifice when complete could not have been less than one hundred feet in length. The communication between the eastern and western parts under the central tower lay under lofty horse-shoe arches three of which are yet entire though now built up.
It was in this ancient church that Hungus King of the Picts, with his nobles offered up their grateful thanks to God and St Andrew on their bare knees for the victory which they had been enabled to gain over Athelstane the Saxon presented gits in fulfilment of their vow and made provision for the honourable custody of the relics of the apostle
Syne St Andrews relics there
With honour gret resaved were
Here the venerable Culdean fathers worshipped God and are buried. Here Constantine lll was interred but his bones were afterwards dug up by the monks of iona and translated to their monastery. Here too are interred Edebred Earl of Fife Son of Malcolm lll and abbot of Dunkeld who had been a benefactor to the monastery and Hugh Macflavertie King of Aileach and heir of Ireland who did penance within its walls for his sins. here moreover Bishop Arnold was consecrated by a papal legate in the presence of Malcolm lV and lastly here repose in peace the remains of the said Arnald together with Bishops Robert and Roger whose tombs are mentioned by Wyantoun though all traces of them have since been effaced - [continues] |
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This church served as the cathedral of the diocese till the properly so called was constructed and it was in its chancel that King Alexander l
Gart them to the altar bring
His comely steed of Araby
Saddled and bridled costlyly
Covered with a fayre mantlet
Of precious and fine velvet
With his armoury of Turkey
That prince then used generally
When he bestowed the Cursus Apii and other valuable gifts on the church of St Andrews. Very near the tower some curiously carved stones were recently dug up. They were fitted together in grooves and no doubt formed a coffin. At present they are deposited in the museum of the Literary Society of St Andrews. The head-stone has five square compartments containing figures of monkeys and globes encircled by serpents. Four of these compartments are formed by a broad cross which is cut upon the stone the fifth being at the intersection of its arms. There are two other stones which exhibit numerous serpents intertwined whose extremities terminate sometimes in heads sometimes in creatures resembling lizards. But the most remarkable of them all is a square stone which formed the south side of the coffin representing a sort of hunting scene. There is a man on horseback with a hawk on his arm ready to be devoured by a tiger, another man tearing open the mouth of a lion a third armed with a spear and a shield [continues] |
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a greyhound in the act of seizing a fox nondescript quadruped with wings mounted on the back of an ass two monkeys and other animals which are all well executed but out of proportion and thrown together without any regard to perspective. The whole is in alto re-relieve. Some suppose them to be of Danish origin. Cordiner in his Antiquities of North Britain gives some engravings of stones not very dissimilar particularly of one or two in Ross-shire. The date he assigns to them is the tenth century. He observes that in rude times it was the custom to bury in the graves of eminent men the weapons or implements in which they took pleasure when alive and that hence by an easy transition the occupation which they were addicted or excelled in came to be represented on their coffins or tombstones. This account seems plausible in the absence of better information but others are of the opinion that the coffin in question and like emblematical representation must have been coeval with the introduction of Christianity into this part of Scotland and that connexion of the cross with the hieroglyphics of our Scandinavian or Pictish ancestors marks their disposition to combine the symbols of the two creeds into one. Lyons Hist. [History] of St Andrews vol. [volume] ll [2] p. [page] 162
Note. The above observations concerning the hieroglyphic stones apply equally to other stones found in a few places in Scotland and generally called Runic Stones which is the reason why this account is written here at full length as reference may be made in other Name Books to this account. |
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LADY'S CHAPEL (Ruins of) |
Lady's Chapel (in ruins)
Lady's Chapel
(in ruins)
Lady's Chapel (in ruins) |
Rev [Reverend] C.J. Lyon M.A. [Master of Arts] St Andrews
Plan of Cathedral Pubed [Published] in 1830
History of St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] Part of the East end of the Cathedral of St Andrews.
This name applies to a small Chapel at the east end of the cathedral, and forming a part of the same. |
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DANE'S WARK |
Dane's Wark
Dane's Wark |
Mr William Scott North Street
Mr Berwick Church St [Street] St Andrews |
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[Situation] About 2 1/2 chains North of the Cathedral Walls along the margin of High Water Mark.
This name applies to a steep precipice near the N.E. [North east] end of the Cathedral. Tradition says that a Dane was at one time employed to construct and embankment on the north side of the Cathedral to prevent the sea from encroaching on it, and that on receiving some money in advance he left the contract unfinished and returned to his own country hence the name. |
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Sheet 4 St Andrews Trace 2 |
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HIGH ALTAR (Site of) [St Andrews Cathedral] |
High Altar (Site of)
High Altar (Site of)
High Altar (Site of) |
Rev [Reverend]C.J. Lyon
Lyon's Hist. [History] of St Andrews
Mr Scott, North Street |
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[Situation] In the East end of the Cathedral of St Andrews.
This is the site of the high altar which stood in the east end of the Cathedral a large flag still marks the place where it stood as pointed out by the authorities quoted for the name. There are also three large stone coffins exposed to view which probably contained the remains of some distinguished ecclesiaistics. |
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Sheet 4 St Andrews |
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CATHEDRAL (Ruins of) |
Cathedral (Ruins of)
Cathedral (Ruins of) |
Rev [Reverend]Mr Lyon St Andrews
David Scott Cathedral Keeper |
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[Situation] In the North East side of the City of St Andrews.
A magnificent and very interesting ruin. Situated in a large burial ground at the East end of St Andrews. It was founded by Bishop Arnold in 1159 but was not finally completed till about 200 years after. It remained standing until 1559 at which time it was totally destroyed by a mob, thro [through] the preaching of John Knox. All that now remains of this once magnificent Structure is a part of the west front, the eastern gable, the wall of the South side of the nave, and of the West side of the south Transept, together with the basements of a few of the Pillars which supported the roof. The building, by the portions which now remain to be seen appears to have been built in different Styles of Architecture. It consisted of a nave and choir, with North and South Transepts and is said to have been lighted [continues] |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2
"The Cathedral of St Andrews is supposed to have been founded in the year 1159 but a period of 120 years elapsed before its completion in 1318. It was demolished in June 1559 by a mob inflamed by a sermon of John Knox wherein "he did instruct the ejection of the buyers and the sellers furthe [forth] of the temple of Jerusalem as it is written in the evangelists Mathew and John and so applied the corruptionne [corruption] in the papistrie and Christs faet [fiat] to the devote [devout] of those to quhome [whom] God giveth the power and zeill [zeal] thereto that as weill [well] the magistrates the proveist [provost] and baillies as the commonality did agree to remove all monuments of idolatry quilk [which] also they did with expeditionne [expedition]" such indeed was their expedition that this noble edifice the labour of ages was demolished in a single day" Fullarton's Gazetteer of Scotland |
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Description continues on Page 32.
Additional information beginning "The Cathedral of St Andrews". seems intended as an additional part of Description, but is written across several columns and does not continue from where the main Description leaves off (this being continued on the next page). It has therefor been transcribed as additional information. |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2
by upwards of one hundred win [windows] The interior of the building was filled w [with] stones and rubbish till about the year 18[--] at which time it was cleared by order of the Commissioners of Woods & Forests, which caused the floor and basements of the pillars to be laid open. At that time three stone coffins were discovered which still remain to be Seen and is supposed to have been the burying place of three of the Prelates of St Andrews. The stone coffins are in [the ?] place where the High Altar stood. Leighton in his History of Fife says "Little as we can trace of the external gre[--] of this Ancient Cathedral, we know still less of its in internal appearance, but when we consider the number and wealth of the Prelates who successively filled the See, and who all, in one way or other attended to its decorations until the period of its final destruction, we may probably be ab [able] to form some faint idea of its magnificence and its splendid decorations
[Signed] John Early ca [Civilian Assistant] |
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Continuation of Description of Cathedral
Some words are partly lost in the tight binding of right margin on this page.
Description continues further on Page 33. |
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Parish of St Andrews
The Cathedral church which was founded by bishop Arnold after his consecration in 1159 was completed by bishop Lamberton and consecrated in 1313 on which a large proportion of the wealth of the diocese had been expended under eleven successive bishops and which from the time of its completion had stood 240 years was destroyed by a mob in June 1559 during the early progress of the reformation in consequence of a sermon preached by John Knox against idolatry. This magnificent structure of which so little now remains was a cross church apparently partly in the Norman and partly in the early English Style of the pointed order of architecture and consisted of a nave and choir with lateral aisles a lady's chapel and north and south transepts. Its extreme length within the walls was 356 feet. The length of the nave is 200 feet and its breadth including the aisles 62 feet the choir in 98 feet in length and the Lady's Chapel at the extreme end is 33 feet in length. The transepts which had a lateral on the east side are 160 feet in length from north to south. All that now remains of this building is part of the west front, the eastern gable, the wall of the south aisle of the nave and of the west side of the south transept and the basements of a few of the pillars which divided the nave and the choir from the aisles and supported the wall which contained the upper row of windows and on which rested the roof of the nave and choir. The original design of this church was in the Norman Style having windows with round arches, but as the building proceeded the plan had been changed and the more recent portions towards the west front are in the early English Style. The west front must have had a grand and imposing [continues] |
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[Page] 34
appearance. It was flanked by two well-proportioned octagon turrets which rose high above the roof and were finely ornamented at top but only one of these now remain with the basement of the other. between these towers was the great western entrance to the nave having a pointed arch ornamented with rich moulding above it were two large pointed windows one of which remains also enriched with fine mouldings divided by mullions into four lights. The east gable is also flanked by octagonal, terminating in handsome pinnacles and between are three lofty narrow windows with semicircular arches above which is a large window said to have been inserted by James Haldenstoun prior of St Andrews during the time of bishop Wardlaw. The transepts seem also to have been flanked by similar turrets, though all traces of them except at the south-west corner are now removed. From the centre of the building, where the nave choir and transepts meet arose the great tower which was supported on four massive pillars the foundations of which can still be traced. It was no doubt also terminated at its corners by turrets and pinnacles of a similar description to those already mentioned. In the south wall of the nave and west wall of the South transept are still to be seen the remains of thirteen windows of which six nearest the west are pointed and the other seven round arched altogether the church must have been lighted by considerable more than 100 windows of various sizes. The tower was likewise furnished according to Martine with many fair great and excellent bells which at the razing of the church were taken down and put aboard of a ship to be transported and sold. But it is reported and certainly believed in this place that the ship which carried of [off] the bells sunk in a fair day within sight of the place where the bells formerly hung" etc etc See Leighton's History of Fife vol [volume] lll [3] pp [pages] 17, 18 [continues] |
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Continuation of Description for Cathedral |
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Parish of St Andrews
"The Cathedral which was by far the most extensive of the religious erections at St Andrews is situated in the vicinity of St Regulus' Tower. It was constructed in the form of a Latin cross, the extreme length of the nave or principal part of the building being about 370 feet in length and the breadth 72 feet the thickness of the walls included and the transept being in length 180 feet. The foundation of the building was laid in the year 1159 during the reign of Malcolm lV who was present at the ceremony, but it was not finished until the reign of Robert Bruce who was present at its consecration in 1318. About 160 years consequently elapsed between the dates of the two events. Fifty years after its consecration a considerable part of the edifice was accidently burnt and after its reparation the succeeding priors kept it in a proper state of repair and some of them contributed materially both to its internal external decoration. At the period of the Reformation the animosity existing between the Roman Catholics and the Protestants in Scotland was strong and led to an open warfare. The celebrated John Knox the zealous supporter and champion of Protestantism had for some time been resident at St Andrews and his public ministrations in this city and in the neighbouring towns had been attended by vast multitudes who adhered to his views; and having expressed in his discourses the notion that the destruction of the religious edifices might be one of the most effectual means of eradicating popery the heated multitude eagerly imbibed the idea and proceeded without delay to put it into execution. The religious edifices in St Andrews were accordingly assailed and in a very few hours what had been the labour of ages were involved in ruins. When the Cathedral was entire it had six spires or turrets, two at each of the extremities of the nave one at the southern extremity of the transept and one in the centre at the intersection of the nave and transept. The two turrets at the eastern extremity and one of the two [continues] |
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[Page] 36
at the western extremity still subsist, and rise to an elevation of about 100 feet the other three have long been destroyed, a small part of the pillars on which the central turret was erected now alone remaining. But a small portion of the exterior wall of this once magnificent fabric is now in existence. The area within continued to be covered with a mass of rubbish until within these few years when the Honourable the Barons of his majesties Exchequer directed it to be removed and certain repairs be executed to promote the preservation of the ruins. The plan of the interior may now be traced with considerable accuracy. Several flat tombstones with devices and inscriptions have been exposed and what apparently must have been a well about 40 feet deep though now without water. Nothing however of any material value was disclosed by the operation. Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] of St Andrews drawn up in 1837
"For some account of the origin progress and destruction of this once splendid edifice see vol. [volume] I [1] pp [pages] 76. 336 Enough however of its foundation pillars and walls remain to enable us to determine its dimensions with great precision. It consisted of a nave two hundred feet long and sixty two wide including the two lateral aisles a transept with an eastern aisle one hundred and sixty feet long a choir with two lateral aisles ninety feet long and at the eastern extremity a Lady Chapel thirty three feet in length. The extreme length of the whole structure measured inside the walls is three hundred and fifty-eight feet. All that remains of the edifice is the east gable part of the west front the wall on the south side of the nave and that of the west side [continues] |
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[Page] 37
of the South transept. In this last may still be seen the remains of some interlaced arches and the ruins of the steps by which the canons descended from the dormitory to the Church to perform their midnight services".
"The Standing walls contain thirteen windows of which the six nearest the west have pointed arches with single mullions and the remaining seven semicircular arches. This transition from the latter style to the former took place in the 13th century just at the time when we know the Church was about half completed. The great central tower was built on four massy piers the bases of which may still be seen at the intersection of the nave with the transepts though of the precise form of the tower we have no account. The bases of a few of the pillars also exist those the nave being oblong unequally-sided octagons seven feet by six, while in the choir are circular and beautifully clustered five feet & three fourths in diameter. The east gable consists of three very ancient oblong windows with semicircular arches and a large window above them. These are situated between two turrets which terminate in octagonal pinnacles. In these turrets are yet seen the terminations of the three rows of galleries one above the other which when entire ran round the whole clerestory passing in some places within the thickness of the walls and in other places opening by arcades into the interior of the church. The west front consists of a pointed arched gateway ornamented with rich mouldings. Immediately above it were two windows of which only one is entire and above these again there appear to have been two others of somewhat larger dimensions. Only one of the turrets of the west front is standing it is of delicate and elegant workmanship the termination in an octagonal lantern pinnacle" etc, etc See Lyons Hist. [History] of St Andtrews vol. [volume] 2 pp [pages] 153, 154 etc etc |
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THE PENDS Remains of PRIORY |
The Pends
The Pends
The Pends
Abbey Porch or Pends |
David Scott Cathedral Keeper
John Ramsay Inspector of Poor
Plan of Cathedral annexed to Lyon's Hist. [History]
Plan of Cathedral etc by Mr J. Sime 1828-1830 |
012 |
[Situation] at the East end of South Street. Two large arched gateways about 20 yards or better apart an [and] which seems by the archwork between them to have been vaulted over at one time. They stand at the East extremity of South Street adjoining the gate leading to Priory House |
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PRIORY HOUSE |
Priory House
Priory House |
Rev [Reverend] Mr Lyon St Andrews
David Scott Cathedral Keeper |
012 |
[Situation] Nearly 2 chains South of the Cathedral of St Andrews.
A large and well constructed house three stories high, with flower, vegat [vegetable] gardens and suitable offices attached the property and occasional residence of - Campbell Esq of Seddel
the entrance to it is from the East end of South Street It received its nam [name] from its being built on part of the site of the old Priory |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace
[Signed] John Early ca [Civilian Assistant] |
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Parts of some words in Description on this page are lost in the tight binding of right margin. |
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Site of NEW INN |
Site of New Inn
Site of New Inn
Site of New Inn |
Rev [Reverend]C.J. Lyon M.A. [Master of Arts] St Andrews
Mr Scott North Street
Leighton's History of Fife |
012 |
[Situation] a few yards North of the Teinds Barn and about 5 chains South of the Cathedral of St Andrews.
The New Inn or Novium Hospitium was the last erected of the buildings within the Monastery It is said to have been erected as a residence for the Queen of James V and was erected in the Space of one month - It formed the residence of the Archbishop after the annexation of the Priory to the See - The Tiend barn still in use stands a few yards south of the New Inn, and the Abbey Mill a few yards south of it The granary which was a large building 3 stories high stood about 20 or 30 yards N.E. [North East] of the New Inn - See Leighton's History of Fife vol [volume] : 3 p.[page] 22
"The New Inn the latest built of all the edifices in the monastery before the reformation is said to have been erected on the following occasion, James V having married the Princess Magdalene the only and lovely daughter of Francis l of France in 1537 the young queen being of a delicate constitution was advised by her physicians to reside here for the benefit of her [continues] |
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Sheet 4 St Andrews. Trace. |
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health. The New Inn was in consequence built for the purpose of accommodating her majesty and was erected we are told with such rapidity that it begun and finished in a Single month. The queen however never enjoyed it for she died at Holyroodhouse on the 7th of July Six weeks after her arrival in Scotland. The New Inn was then the residence of the archbishop after the annexation of the priory to the archbishops in 1635" |
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Continuation of Description for New Inn |
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HOLY WELL |
Holy Well
Holy Well |
Rev [Reverend] Mr Lyon St Andrews
David Scott Cathedral Keeper St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] Nearly 4 chains south of the Tower of St Regulus.
An excellent well of the purest water Eastward of the priors House and was in olden times used by the inhabitants of the Priory. It has been neatly arched over and is seemingly excellent water, though now it is kept in a very filthy state |
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GAS WORKS |
Gas Works
Gas Works |
David Scott St Andrews
John Ramsay Inspector of Poor St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] In the Eastern side of the City of St Andrews immediately outside of the Abbey Wall.
A large establishment used for the manufacture of gas for the Town and inhabitants of St Andrews. It is the property of a private Company |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2
[Signed] John Early ca [Civilian Assistant] |
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SHORE MILL (Corn & Flour) |
Shore Mill
Shore Mill |
John Ramsay Inspector of Poor
David Scott Cathedral Keeper St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] In the East side of the City of St Andrews and between the Harbour and the Abbey Wall -
A flour and corn mill at the East side of the Gas Works, propelled by water power |
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HIND ROCK |
Hind Rock
Hind Rock |
John Ramsay Inspector of Poor
John McDonald Castle Street |
012 |
[Situation] Lying between High and low Water mark between the Castle of St Andrews and the Danes Wark -
A long ledge of Rock extending Eastward from the Castle to Low Water Mark |
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PENDS LANE |
Pends Lane
Pends Lane
Pends Lane |
Major Playfair Prot. [Provost] St Andrews
Mr George Boyack St Andrews
Mr William Woodcock St Andrews |
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[Situation] Between the Pends or remains of priory and The Harbour
A small lane leading from the Pends to Harbour - |
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Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2
[Signed] John Early ca [Civilian Assistant] |
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LONG ROCK |
Long Rock |
Mr Wilson Pilot St Andrews
Mr D. Scott St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] This ledge of Rock lies between the Castle of St Andrews and Low Water mark.
A long rugged ledge of rocks extending from the Castle eastwards to low water mark |
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LADY'S CRAIG |
Lady's Craig |
Mr Wilson Pilot
Mr D Scott St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] East of the City of St Andrews and about 8 chains NE [North East] of the extreme Point of the Pier.
A rugged and conspicuous rock north east of the end of the pier near low water mark and covered by the sea at full tide. |
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HEADLESS MEN |
Headless Men |
Mr Wilson Pilot
Mr D Scott St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] between the Extreme point of the Pier and the low water mark.
A ledge of rugged rocks extending eastward from the end of the pier, as far as low water. |
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[Page] 43
Ph [Parish] of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 3 |
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KIRK HEUGH |
Kirk Heugh |
Mr Henderson Abbey Street
Mr Wilson Pilot Shore
James Anderson South Street St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] In the East side of the City of St Andrews and lying between the Abbey Walls and high Water mark -
This name applies to the space north of the wall surrounding the Cathedral and the precipice overhanging the sea: at the east end of Kirk Heugh once stood a church dedicated to St Mary. It is said that the Culdees had a chapel here on the site of which St Mary's was built, but of which no vestige now remains |
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Site of ST MARY'S CHURCH |
St Mary's Church (Site of)
St Mary's Church (Site of)
St Mary's Church (Site of)
Kirk heugh
Kirkheugh or St Mary's church |
Plan of St Andrews
Principal Haldane
Rev [Reverend] Dr Buist St Andrews
Lyon's Hist. [History] of St Andrews
Fullarton's Gazetteer |
012 |
[Situation] About 5 chains East of the ruins of the Tower and Church of St Regulus -
At the east end of Kirkheugh is the site of a place of Worship which was dedicated to St Mary. A small part of a wall still standing is said to be a portion of the south end of the Church. Some years ago a considerable quantity of human bones & skulls were dug up in the vicinity of this Church when levelling the ground.
"The Kirkheuch or Kirkhill was a Collegiate Church having attached to it a provost and ten prebendaries. It appears to have belonged originally to the Culdees who at an early period were held in so high estimation that Constantine lll, after resigning his crown became abbot of the order. Its first site appears to have been a rock a little beyond the entrance to the present harbour but the encroachments of the sea having rendered it necessary to abandon this position it was removed to the elevated ground west from the harbour where a small fragment of its ruins may still be traced. Fordun states that it was erected by [continues] |
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[Page] 44
Ph [Parish] of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 2 |
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[Page] 45
Constantine ll soon after the middle of the ninth century but others contend that it was founded by the Macduffs earls of Fife. It was suppressed at the Reformation and its remains were appropriated to various purposes." Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] of Fifeshire 1845.
"The Culdean establishment here was the monastery of Kirkheugh and was situated on the hill which overhangs the harbour eastward of the Cathedral. It was called "Ecclesia Sanctae Mariae de Rupe" or St Mary's Church of the rock either from its being founded upon a rock or from a chapel belonging to said to have been built on one called the "Lady Craig" near the extremity of the present pier. The Culdees possessed this monastery for several hundred years. They consisted of an abbot and twelve priests who were generally married men and whose sons often succeeded them in their office. Whether their marriage were a part of their original institution or a deviation from it is a question which it would be foreign to my purpose to investigate since the practice is admitted to have existed among them during at least the tenth and eleventh centuries. The period with which we are chiefly concerned".
"What connexion the Culdees had with St Regulus and his followers cannot be known with certainty but there seems every reason for believing that the name of Culdees was bestowed on the indigenous Clergy of the country from the time it was Christianized. Their lives and doctrine are said to have been pure and if the derived this purity from their early intercourse with the missionaries of the Roman see there is reason to think that they retained it in several particulars after that church had departed from it, nor was it without difficulty that she succeeded at a subsequent period in establishing her supremacy over them and finally incorporating them with herself". Lyon Hist. [History] of St Andrews vol. [volume] 1 pp [pages] 26, 27 |
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Continuation of Description for Site of St Mary's Church.
Continues further on Page 46. |
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[Page] 46
Parish of St Andrews
"They (Culdees) had a chapel mentioned by Martine which was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and was styled "Ecclesia Sancta Maria de Rupe" or St Mary's Church on the rock. This chapel was built on a rock called the Lady's Craig situated near the extremity of the present pier. The rock has been encroached on by the sea but was still visible at low water when Martine wrote his "Reliquiae Divi Andreae" This Chapel was no doubt the earliest Church or chapel and the one from which the name of Kilrymont originated. They had also a chapel on the hill above the harbour erected no doubt after the earlier one had been abandoned in consequence of the encroachments of the sea. This was also dedicated to the virgin and was called "Ecclesia Sancta Maria" with the addition of "Capella domini Regis Scotorum" the chapel of our Lord the King of Scots. - Early in the 14th century the Culdees seem either to have suppressed or to have died out and the establishment erected into a collegiate church called the Provostry of Kirkheugh having a provost and at least nine prebendaries. The names of the prebendaries which have been preserved are - The parson of Fetteresso, the parson of Dysart" etc, etc See Leighton's Hist. [History] of Fife vol. [volume] lll [3] pp. [pages] 6, 7 |
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Continuation of Description for Site of St Mary's Church. |
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Site of GRAVE YARD (Supposed) |
Site of Grave Yard
Site of Grave Yard
Site of Grave Yard |
Rev [Reverend] C. J. Lyon St Andrews
Mr W Scott North Street
Mr Wilson Shore |
012 |
[Situation] About 4 chains East of the Tower and Church of St Regulus and outside of the Abbey Wall.
A place where, some years ago a quantity of human remains were discovered consisting of skulls and bones. No coffins were discovered. it is supposed to be the place in which some of the early Christians were buried - |
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[Page] 47
Sheet 4 St Andrews Trace 3 |
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[Page] 48 |
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Page is blank apart from page number. |
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EAST SANDS |
East Sands |
Mr Wilson Pilot
Mr Cruikshanks Postoffice St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] On the East side of the City of Saint Andrews and lying between high & low Water Mark -
An extensive sandy beach immediately east of St Andrews. |
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EAST BENTS |
East Bents |
Mr Wilson, Pilot
Mr D. Henderson Abbey Street St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] On the East side of the City of St Andrews and lying between Kinnes [Kinness] Burn and High Water mark.
A strip of rough pasture land extending along the Shore, between the harbour and east sands. |
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[Page] 49
Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 3 |
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HARBOUR TAVERN |
Harbour Tavern |
Sign board
Mr Wilson, Pilot St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] In the North end of the shore and about 7 chains East of St Regulus Tower.
A house licensed to retail Spirits and ales etc Situated on the Shore close by the harbour. |
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THE SHORE |
The Shore |
Mr Henderson Abbey Street
Mr Cruikshanks Post Office St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] Nearly 6 chains W.S.E. [East South East] of the Tower of St Regulus.
A row of dwelling houses & warehouses on the side of the harbour close to the sea shore. |
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BURN STOOLS |
Burn Stools |
Mr Wilson Pilot
John Young Fisherman St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] On the South side of the City of St Andrews and lying between high and low water marks, S. [South] of the Pier.
This name applies to a ledge of rocks at the North end of east Sands extending from the south pier to the low water mark |
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[Page] 50
Ph [Parish] of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 3. |
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ABBEY WALK |
Abbey Walk |
David Robertson Miller Abbey Mills
John Shaw Tollkeeper Shore Bridge |
012 |
[Situation] Between Abbey Street and Shore bridge Toll Bar -
The road extending from the South end of Abbey Street to Shore Bridge Toll Bar; running parallel to the Abbey Wall. |
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[Page] 51
Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 4
[Signed] P. McHugh Pte Private] R.S. & M. [Royal Sappers and Miners] |
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[Page] 52
Blank Page |
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ABBEY MILL (Flour) |
Abbey Mill |
David Robertson Miller Abbey Mill
John Shaw Tollkeeper Shore Bridge |
012 |
[Situation] About 6 chains South of St Regulus Tower.
A flour mill two stories high with offices and residence for miller attached all in good repair, there is a garden attached. The mill is built on the site of the mill that belonged to the Monastery. Tenanted by the St Andrews Flour Mill Society. The property of the Town. |
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TEINDS BARN |
Teinds Barn |
David Robertson Miller Abbey Mill
John Shaw Tollkeeper Shore bridge |
012 |
[Situation] About 6 chains S.W. [South West] of St Regulus Tower -
An old barn situated a little to the North of Abbey Mill, in middling repair, when the Monastery was in existence it was used for threshing the teinds. The property of the Town. tenanted by David Pringle Merchant St Andrews.
"The tiend [teind] barn still in use stands a few yards south of the site of the new Inn" Leighton's Hist. [History] of Fife, vol. [volume] lll [3] p. [page] 22 |
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[Page] 53
Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 4
[Signed] P. McHugh Pte [Private] RS&M [Royal Sappers and Miners] |
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I have transcribed other signatures by this person as "P. McHugh" [--] R.S.M. [Regimental Sergeant Major}, but this one looks almost like "Pte" which would normally be [Private] followed by RSSM for which I can think of no extension. Given that most Ordnance Survey personnel of this period were serving or former members of the Royal Engineers this is an unlikely designation, since "Sapper" would be more to be expected.
Hi JCB,
its RS&M for Royal Sappers & Miners and this page certainly looks lite Pte for Private. We have a list of surveyors and civilian assistants here which might help you out. http://www.scotlandsplaces.gov.uk/transcribe/forums/transcriptions/faqs-frequently-asked-questions/1213703
I've also made a wee amendment to the previous page, its a bit faster and it shows up better on the whole transcription pages.
Cheers
Nora |
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ABBEY COTTAGE |
Abbey Cottage |
David Robertson Miller Abbey Mill
John Shaw Tollkeeper Shore Bridge |
012 |
[Situation] About 16 chains South of St Regulus Tower and South of Abbey Wall
A small cottage two stories high with offices all in good repair, there is a large garden attached. Tenanted by Miss Christie. The property of the Town. |
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SHORE BRIDGE T.P. |
Shore Bridge Toll Bar |
David Robertson Miller Abbey Mill
John Shaw Tollkeeper Shore Bridge |
012 |
[Situation] On the South East extremity of the City of St Andrews and 17 chains S.S.E [South South East] of St Regulus Tower
A toll Bar consisting of two gates one on the road leading to the harbour and the other on the Road at the S.E. [South East] end of Abbey Walk. Adjoining is the collectors cottage |
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[Page] 54
Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 4
[Signed] P. McHugh Pte. [Private] RS & M [Royal Sappers and Miners] |
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ABBEY WALL |
Abbey Wall |
David Robertson Miller Abbey Mill
John Shaw Tollkeeper Shore Bridge |
012 |
[Situation] In the S.E [South East] side of the City of St Andrews -
A high wall extending from the North East corner of the Cathedral, to the wall that encloses St Leonards College, its whole length is about 870 yards, it is about a yard in thickness, and in a middling state of repair. Built in 1516 by John Hepburn Prior of St Andrews, so as to enclose the whole of the Monastery; there is nothing remains of the Monastery now but the Holy Well, the Teind Barn, and a few old walls.
There is sixteen large turrets round the wall, in each of which there is a niche, they were supposed by some people to have held statues at some period, and others state that they never had statues in them; the turret at the South West corner was a dove cot at some period, but it along with the rest, at the present time are in a state of ruin.
There is three large gates of entrance to the Monastery, the principal of which is that on the North side, it is a large arch, a good specimen of Gothic architecture, but in a ruinous state; the next is on the West side leading into the Monastery from the Abbey Walk, through which the teinds were led to the offices of the Monastery, o each side of it there is a small gate for the convenience of foot passengers, they are plain Gothic arches; the other is a plain Gothic arch on the South side entering in from the shore. (The first mentioned gate is situated at the East end of South Street.
"John Hepburn prior of St Andrews about the year 1516 surrounded the monastery on the north-east and south sides with a magnificent wall." Fullartons Gazetteer. |
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[Page] 55
Parish of St Andrews Sheet 2 Trace 4
(1516) [below Name]
[Signed] P. McHugh Pte. [Private] RS&M [Royal Sappers and Miners] |
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Description continues on Page 56/ |
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[Page] 56
Parish of St Andrews
"A considerable portion of what is denominated the abbey wall which surrounded and enclosed the whole is still in existence it appears to have been nearly 1/2 a mile in extent about 4 feet in thickness and 20 feet in height. It had originally sixteen towers or turrets interspersed at irregular distances projecting outward several feet and rising a few feet higher than the general level of the wall. It was erected by John Hepburn the prior soon after the commencement of the Sixteenth century. There were three gates by which the enclosure might be entered which from their remains appear to have been handsome that in particular which is at the eastern extremity of the South Street of the city." Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] of Fife 1845
"John Hepburn prior of St Andrews about the year 1516 surrounded the monastery on the north, east and South sides with a magnificent wall which is still pretty entire and is nearly half a mile in extent. It is about 22 feet high and 4 feet thick and enclosed a space of about 18 acres". Gazetteer of Scotland by Fullarton etc.
"Prior Hepburn built the extensive wall still mostly remaining still mostly remaining [sic] round the monastery and college of St Leonards which he founded. It altogether enclosed a space of about 20 acres, which formed the precinct of the monastery. It is 20 feet in height and about 870 feet in length and is defended by thirteen round or square towers at different intervals on each of which there is one or two richly carved canopied niches. It has three gateways and in several parts may be seen the arms and initials of the prior [continues] |
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Continuation of Description of Abbey Wall. |
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[Page] 57
with his motto, "Ad vitam", one of these has the date 1520. On one of the turrets there is an inscription now scarcely legible but which seems to imply that the prior had carried on some improvements in the harbour which his predecessor had commenced".
See Leighton's Hist. [History] of Fife vol [volume] lll [3] pp [pages] 20 |
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Continuation of Description of Abbey Wall |
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[Page] 58 |
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GREENSIDE PLACE |
Greenside Place |
Name on Corner of Street
Mr David Henderson Abbey Street St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] About 17 chains West of the Tower of St Regulus -
A row of houses on the S.E. [South East] side of a lane leading southward from Abbey Street to Kinness Burn. The houses are in good repair, two stories high, slatted [slated], and occupied by mechanics |
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[Page] 59
Sheet 2 Trace 5 Parish of Saint Andrews
St Andrews Chapel (Episcopal) See Name Book for Sheet B |
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[Page] 60 |
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PARISH OF ST LEONARDS
SHEET 4
INDEX
[Column 1]
Names of Objects -- Pages
Parish of St Leonards -- 72
Abbey Street -- 63
Gregory's Green -- 70
Fisher's School -- 70
Lady Buchan's cave -- 69
St Leonard's Church (ruins of) -- 64
St Leonard's College 0Remmains of) -- 67
Victoria Inn -- 63
[Column 2]
Names of Objects -- Pages
[Column 3]
Names of Objects -- Pages
[Column 4]
Names of Objects -- Pages |
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Index page, ruled for four columns of "Names of Objects" each with associated column "Pages", but only Column 1 has actually been used for entries. |
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[Page] 62 |
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ABBEY STREET |
Abbey Street |
Name cut in stone on corner of Street.
Mr G Colvill Grocer South Street |
012 |
[Situation] About 14 chains West of the Tower of St Regulus -
A narrow street consisting of dwelling houses chiefly of a good description, leading southward from South Street, it is the principal thoroughfare from St Andrews to Crail and Anstruther, and the eastern part of the County. |
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VICTORIA INN |
Victoria Inn |
Sign board
Mr D. Henderson Abbey Street |
012 |
[Situation] About 14 1/2 chains West South West of the Tower of Saint Regulus -
A dwelling house licensed to retail spirits and ales. it is situated about the middle of Abbey Street on the east side and tenanted by James Anderson. |
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[Page] 63
Sheet 4 Trace 5 Parish of St Leonards |
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ST LEONARD'S CHURCH (Ruins of) |
St Leonards Chapel (in ruins)
St Leonards Chapel (in ruins)
St Leonards Chapel (in ruins) |
Principal Haldene St Andrews
Major Playfair, Provost, St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] About 10 chains west of the Tower of St Regulus -
The Chapel of St Leonards is now a ruin. The roof having entirely disappeared: it was a strong, handsome edifice about 136 links long, and 32 wide within the walls. On the inside of the north wall are three mural monuments of Robert Stewart, bishop of Caithness; of the Earl of Lennox, and of March, besides one or two others which are very much decayed.
"The original church of the parish of St Leonards was situated in the immediate vicinity of the college of the same name and for more than two centuries it was occupied by the parishioners. About seventy years ago it required extensive repairs the expenses of which would have fallen chiefly on the funds of the united college. A few years prior to this period however the colleges of Salvator and St Leonards had been incorporated by act of parliament and to St Salvator's there had been attached by the founder a large chapel which was still in a good state of repair and was now the property of the United College and it became a subject of discussion among the masters whether it would be more eligle [eligible ?] to repair the old parish church or to fit up the chapel of St Salvators for the use of the parishioners? The latter was situated indeed beyond the limits of the parish but the distance between the two was so small that it was a matter of but little importance to the parishioners whether they were accommodated in the one or in the other. The majority of the masters favoured the idea of the proposed transference as the other buildings of St Salvators College were already appreiated [appropriated ?] for the use of the united college and the sanction of the presbytery of St Andrews to the measure having been obtained the
Sat Acct. [Statistical Account] p. [page] 502 [continues] |
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[Page] 64
Sheet 2 Trace 5 Ph. [Parish] of St Leonards
As this was the parish church of St Leonards Church & not chapel is the proper designation [below Name] |
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[Page] 65
chapel was fitted up so as to accommodate the parishioners of St Leonards and the students attending the United College and for their use it continues to be appriated [appropriated ?]. The walls of the old parish church still remain in a tolerable state of preservation but the tower and spire connected with it were pulled down soon after the transference. The area of the church formed a parallelogram of about 70 feet long by 18 wide within the walls and the style of its architecture was neat and appropriate. The interior still contains several monuments inserted into the walls to the memory of individuals connected with St Leoanard's College in the earlier periods of its existence but the most elegant of them has been constructed of a species of stone but ill fitted for encountering the vicissitudes of the weather and is fast hastening to a state of utter decay: Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] 1845. |
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Continuation of Description for St Leonards Church |
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[Page] 66
Lady Buchan's Cave
"A cave nearly fronting the ruinous castle of the Archbishops of St Andrews bears the name of this religious person (St Regulus). It is difficult of access and the rock in which it is hewn is washed by the German ocean. It is nearly round about 10 feet in diameter and the same in height. On one side is a sort of Stone altar on the other an aperture into an inner den where the ascetic who inhabited this dwelling probably slept. At full tide egress and regress are hardly practicable. As Regulus first colonized the metropolitan see of Scotland and converted the inhabitants in the vicinity he has some reason to complain that the ancient name of Kilrule (Cella Regulis) should have been superseded even in favour of the Tutelary Saint of Scotland. The reason of the change was that St Regulus is said to have brought to Scotland the relics of St Andrews.
The Saint doubtless was so selfish as to wish to derogate from the honour of the Apostle but the former has not been forgotten for to this day the tower above mentioned (St Regulus's Tower) bears his name. As to the cave it is commonly known as "Lady Buchan's Cave" from the circumstance of that lady's having occasionally used it for a very different purpose to what the recluse devoted it namely for entertaining her friends at tea when she resided here some eighty years ago with her two sons, the late Lord Chancellor Erskine and his brother". Lyon's Hist [History] of St Andrews vol. [volume] 1 pp [pages] 21, 22
Particular inquiry has been made concerning St Regulus's Cave and it has been ascertained that it has been long since washed away by the encroachment of the sea. Therefore the above statement by Mr Lyons is incorrect this error the author has acknowledged to C.A. McDiarmid when making enquiry concerning the cave. Lady Buchan's Cave is therefore of modern construction St Regulus's Cave in all likelihood was situated very near the present Low Water |
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Continuation of Description for "Lady Buchan's Cave" Page 69. |
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ST LEONARD'S COLLEGE (Remains of) |
St Leonard's College
St Leonard's College
St Leonard's College |
Revd [Reverend] C.J. Lyon MA [Master of Arts] St Andrews
Leightons History of Fifeshire
History of St Andrews |
012 |
[Situation] About 10 chains West of the Tower of St Regulus.
"The College of St Leonard was founded in 1512 by prior John Hepburn, and was endowed with the, lands houses and revenues which belonged to St Leonard's hospital. In 1747 the college and Church of St Leonards was Sold, and is now the property of Major Playfair and Sir David Brewster. The interior walls and portions of the exterior have been altered and removed - a room at the eastern end of St Leonards College and now occupied by Sir David Brewster was for some time occupied by George Buchanan when he was principal of St Leonards College - Vide History of St Andrews. P. [Page] 26.
St Leonards College was founded in 1512 by prior John Hepburn under the sanction and with the assistance of Archbishop Alexander Stewart. From the foundation Charter it appears that there had been an hospital attached to the priory which with its chapel was dedicated to St Leonard for the reception and entertainment of pilgrims and strangers who visited the Shrine of St Andrew where his arm which wrought many miracles was the object of their devotion. At length from whatever cause the resort of strangers diminished or altogether ceased and the prior and canons who were the patrons, filled it with old women converting it into a Kind of nunnery Soon after however the old women were turned out and the chapel and hospital being repaired they were
continued next page [continues] |
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[Page] 67
Sheet 4 Trace 5 Parish of St. Leonards |
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Image on this page is actually that for page 69 "Lady Buchan's Cave". Supervisor informed 2 Oct 2014.
Correct image now available.
Description continues on page 68 following |
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[Page] 68
converted into a college to consist of a master or principal four chaplains two of whom were to be regents and twenty scholars who were to be taught the languages and then the liberal arts & sciences after which six of them thought most qualified were to study theology. Such of the Scholars also as were fit were to be taught music. The foundation was executed in August 1512 and by another charter the college was endowed with the houses lands and revenues which had belonged to St Leonard's Hospital" Leighton's Hist [History] of Fife vol. [volume] lll [3] p. [page] 24
"St Leonards College obtained its name from its vicinity to St Leonards Church. "It appears" says a modern author "from the foundation charter that there had been a hospital in the same place for the reception and entertainment of pilgrims of different nations who crowded to St Andrews to pay their devotions to the arm of St Andrew which wrought a great many miracles" etc etc.
"On the union of this college with St Salvators the buildings of it were sold and converted into dwelling houses to which purpose such of them as now remain are still applied. It stood on the east side of the town adjoining to the monastery" Gazetteer of Scotland by Fullarton & Co [Company] vol. [volume] 1 p. [page] 39 |
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Continuation of Description for St Leonard's College |
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LADY BUCHAN'S CAVE |
Lady Buchans Cave
Lady Buchans Cave
Lady Buchans Cave |
David Scott Cathedral Keeper St Andrews
John McDonald Castle Street St Andrews
Leighton's Hist [History] of Fife vol [volume] lll [3] p. [page] 4 |
012 |
[Situation] On the margin of High Water mark and about 5 chains North of the Cathedral of St Andrews -
A small cave cut in a precipitous rock at High water mark near the North end of Gregory's Lane. It is evidently artificial and consisted of two apartments which were neatly ornamented with sea shells though no portion of the ornament now remaining. It was made by the desire and at the expense of a lady Buchan, for the purpose of her sitting there to receive the cool and refreshing breezes of the sea and from whom the cave has derived its name.
"In the rocks between the castle and the harbour is a cave called Lady Buchan's apparently chiefly artificial which is said to have been elegantly fitted up with Shell work by a lady of that name when residing at St Andrews about 80 years ago" - Leighton's Hist. [History] of Fife, vol. [volume] lll [3] p. [page] 4 |
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GREGORY'S LANE |
Gregory's Lane
Gregory's Lane
Gregory's Lane |
David Scott St Andrews
John McDonald Castle street St Andrews
Corner Ticket |
012 |
[Situation] Between the north end of North Street and the High Water Mark -
A narrow lane which runs in a Northerly direction from the east end of North Street to the sea, the only houses on it are those belonging to a Foundry lately closed up which lie on its east side at its Northern extremity |
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[Page] 69
Parish of St. Leonards Sheet 2 Trace 2
[Signed] John Early ca [Civilian Assistant] |
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This page has the wrong image (duplicate of page 71). Supervisor notified on 1 Oct 2014. The correct image for this page is actually shown on OS1/13/102/67.
As of 22 Nov 2014 the correct image appears, but part of bottom left of page is obscured by an inset sheet of paper. For some unknown reason, this inset disappears when fully zoomed in. |
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FISHERS' SCHOOL |
Fishers' School
Fishers' School |
David Scott Cathedral Keeper
John Ramsay, Inspector of Poor |
012 |
A house a short distance East of Gr[...] lane. Kept as a school house where children of both sexes are taught the ordinary branches of an English educ[ation] The average number of pupils are ab[out] 50 and are principally the children of Fisherman from which the school has derived its name. The master's salary is derived part from subscription and p[art] from the Pupils, he therefore, has no fixed salary |
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[Page] 70
Parish of St Leonards Trace 2 Sheet 2
[Signed] John Early ca [Civilian Assistant] |
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An entry on this page for "Gregory's Green" has been scored out and is hence not transcribed here.
Some words in Description are partly lost in the tight binding of right margin.
Actual situation for "Fishers' School" is east of modern Gregory's Lane. |
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GREGORY'S GREEN |
Gregory's Green
Gregory's Green |
David Scott Cathedral Keeper St Andrews
John Ramsay Inspector of Poor |
012 |
[Situation] Nearly 3 chains North of the cathedral of St Andrews
A small plot of ground situated on the north side of North Street at its east end. |
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[Page] 71
Parish of St Leonards |
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[Page] 72
Parish of St Leonards Sheet 4
Parish of St Leonards See Name Book for Plan 20 A
[Signed] James Carpenter C. Asst. [Civilian Assistant] 29 the April 1854
[Signed] P James Ca [Captain] Re [Royal Engineers] 2nd May 1854 |
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[Page] 73
OS1/13/102
102 102
St Andrews
Sheet 4
Names of Parishes -- Page
St Andrews -- 1
St Leonards -- 61 |
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Title Page |
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