Fife and Kinross-shire volume 01

Page List of names as written Various modes of spelling Authorities for spelling Situation Description remarks Continued entries/extra info Transcriber's notes
OS1/13/1/1 1 (Index Page) Parish of --- Extra- Parochial PLAN 28C INDEX Names of objects.... Pages Altarstones -- 5 Black Heugh -- 11 East Tarbet -- 10 Horse Hole -- 6 Holymans Road -- 8 Isle of May -- 3 Kirk Haven --14 Lighthouse -- 7 Lady's Cave -- 12 Lady's Well -- 13 Mill Door -- 11 Maiden Hair -- 13 Maidens Bed -- 17 North Ness -- 9 Norman Rock -- 9 Pilots' House -- 8 Pilgrims Haven -- 13 South Ness -- 14 Site of Village -- 15 The Middens -- 6 The Low Light -- 7 The Pool -- 10 The Pilgrims -- 18 The Pillow -- 14 West Tarbet -- 5 Chapel (Ruins of) -- Tarbethole -- 17
OS1/13/1/2 [Page] 2 [Blank Page]
OS1/13/1/3 ISLE OF MAY Isle of May Isle of May Island of May Island of May Island of May or Isle of May The May or Isle of May Isle of May Isle of May Isle of May Island of May Old Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] vol 21 Index Old Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] vol 3. p. 84 Old Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] vol 4 p375 Old Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] vol 9 p 449 Stat. Acct of Fifesh. [Statistical Account of Fifeshire] Fullartons Gazeteer Johnstons Co. [County] Map Sibbalds Hist. [History] of Fife Butlers Lives of the Saints Rev. [Reverend] William Merson Crail 028 [Situation] - About 7½ Miles S. by E. [South by East] from Fife Ness A small Island in the mouth of the Frith of Forth, lying 6 miles South from the burgh of Crail and about the Same distance from Anstruther-Wester. The shores are precipitous, but the surface is upon the whole flat: hence perhaps the name May or Magh, which in Celtic signifies 'a Plain'. The western extremity which is the broadest presents cliffs of about 160 feet in elevation, with a tendency towards the Columnar structure. The eastern extremity subsides into a long low ridge or reef. Kittiwakes, Auks, Guillemots, terns, titlarks, cormorants, and gannets are the species of birds commonly seen upon it. It has a well of fine water and a small lake And Affords excellent sheep pasture. There are upon it the ruins of a priory* which formerly belonged to the Abbey of Pittenweem; And of a chapel which was dedicated to St Adrian,who was killed by the Danes in 870 And buried here. The Saints Shrine was formerly much resorted to in cases of barrenness. Alexander Cummingham of Barns obtained a Charter from Charles I of this island with liberty to build a lighthouse for which a tax was imposed on all ships passing up the Forth. He erected a tower 40 feet high on the top of which....
OS1/13/1/3 [page] 3 Parish of (Extra - Parochial) *No ruins here now. See notes in [pen] - at the end of this book
OS1/13/1/4 ISLE OF MAY ..a fire of coals was constantly kept burning. This proved of much service to the navigation of the Firth, although vessels would often run within half a mile of the island before the light was discernible. The architect of this tower is said to have been drowned on his return from the island in a storm supposed to have been raised by some old women who were in consequence burned as witches. With the estate of Barns, the island was purchased by Scott of Scotstarvet upwards of 120 years ago and came to the late General Scott of Balcomie, by whose daughter the Duchess of Portland it was sold for £60,000 to the Comissioners for Northern Lights. In 1815 -16 they built the lighthouse and fitted it up with oil lamps and reflectors. The beacon was lit up on the new place on Feb 1st 1816. The light resembles a star of the first magnitude and may be seen from all points of the compass at the distance of about 7 leagues, and is elevated 240 feet above the medium level of the sea. A rent of £21 is received by Government for the pasturage and birds on the island. The only inhabitants are the two lightkeepers and their families. Abridged from Fullartons Gazeteer of Scotland.
OS1/13/1/4 [Page] 4 Parish of [Note] This Island is Extra Parochial. The correspondence regarding it will shortly be forwarded. .
OS1/13/1/5 WEST TARBET [Isle of May] West Tarbet West Tarbet John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] - About 25 Chains N.W. [North West] from Lighthouse. A very Small bay on the West side of the Isle of May Same description as East Tarbet
OS1/13/1/5 ALTARSTONES [Isle of May] Altarstones Altarstones Altarstans John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May Sibbalds Hist. [History] of Fifeshire 028 [Situation] - About 25 Chains N.W. [North West] from Lighthouse. This is the only and proper landing place at the West Side of the Island where Easterly winds are perdant all Vessels Come here and When the Wind is from the West they go round to Kirk Haven at the east Side but there is no good anchorage here. origin of the name not Known.
OS1/13/1/5 [page] 5 Parish of Island of May
OS1/13/1/6 HORSE HOLE Horse Hole Horse Hole John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] About 20 Chains N.W. [Northwest] from Light House An opening between two precipitous rocks a little to the south of Altarstones. Origin not known.
OS1/13/1/6 THE MIDDENS [Isle of May] The Middens The Middens John Grierson isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] About 13 Chains N.E. [Notheast] by E. [East] from Light House. These large and dangerous rocks on the east Side of the island. They are visible at high water. Called the Middens from the Circumstance of the Cinders or other refuse from the light house been thrown out here.
OS1/13/1/6 [Page] 6 Island of May
OS1/13/1/7 THE LOW LIGHT [Isle of May] The Low Light The Low Light John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] About 10 Chains N. by E. [North by East] from Light House. A circular tower about 30 feet high erected on the east Side of the Island. Vessels when rounding Fife Ness by keeping this and the upper Lighthouse in line keep clear of the Carr Rocks. The light can only be Seen When in line with the upper lighthouse.
OS1/13/1/7 LIGHTHOUSE [Isle of May] Lighthouse John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] About the centre of the Isle of May A substantial and well built building erected by the Comissioners of the Northern Lights in the year [blank] The Square building at the bottom is the residence of the three light keepers with the necessary store rooms. This building is two storeys high; There is two neatly fitted up rooms for the comissioners on the 2nd flat. The whole is surmounted by a circular Stone Building with glass dome and the height is about 50 Feet. The light is Stationary and bright to distinguish it from Inch Keith and the Bell Rock. It can be Seen at a great distance and has proved of great Service to Vessels entering the Firth of Forth, the whole of the interior is kept very clean and neat. Each of the lightkeepers has a Small piece of ground and garden also neat built out offices for keeping cows of which each of the keepers has one and a few sheep which gathers some scanty herbage D. Mason
OS1/13/1/7 [Page] 7 Island of May
OS1/13/1/8 HOLYMANS ROAD [Isle of May] Holymans Road Holymans Road John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] About 6 Chains N.E. [Northeast] from Lighthouse A hollow between two ridges of rocks leading from the Low Lighthouse to a little below the Pilots House.
OS1/13/1/8 PILOTS' HOUSE [Isle of May] Pilots' House Pilots' House John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] East side of Lighthouse This was the lighthouse prior to the present one being built but it was only a fire lighted and put on the top of the house. So insecure was this fire at the time of being used that a whole family one child excepted was Killed by the fumes of Sulphur. It is now used as a lookout for Pilots.
OS1/13/1/8 [Page] 8 Parish of Island of May
OS1/13/1/9 NORTH NESS North Ness North Ness John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] About 40 Chains N.N.W. [North North West] from lighthouse. This name applies to the most Northern portion of the Island of May. There is no pasture here nothing but the bare rocks
OS1/13/1/9 NORMAN ROCK Norman Rock Norman Rock John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] North Western extremity of Isle of May A small rock covered at high [tide] situate a little to the North of Northness
OS1/13/1/9 [Page] 9 Parish of Island of May
OS1/13/1/10 THE POOL [Isle of May] The Pool John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill isle of May 028 [Situation] About 40 Chains N.W. [North West] from Light House A pool of water left after the Sea recedes from High Water Mark.
OS1/13/1/10 EAST TAR BET East Tarbet East Tarbet John Grierson Isle of May Alexander Craill Isle of May 028 [Situation] About 20 Chains N.W. [North West] from [Light House] A small bay on the East Side of the Isle of May but it affords no Security of any kind for vessels as the bottom is all rocks. At Spring tides this is joined to West Tarbet
OS1/13/1/10 [Page] 10 Parish of Island of May
OS1/13/1/11 BLACK HEUGH Black Heugh Black Heugh Black Heugh Black Heugh James Laird Fisherman Crail Mr Crilie Lightkeeper Island of May Mathew Laird Crail Alexander Tailor Crail 028 [Situation] About 20 Chains S.E. [Southeast] from Light House This name refers to a bleak rocky ridge on the west side of the island extending from "Mill Door" to Pilgrim Haven.
OS1/13/1/11 MILL DOOR Mill Door Mill Door James Laird Crail Mr Crilie Isle of May 028 [Situation] About 10 Chains S.S.E. [South South East] from Light House. A natural passage through the rock between two Small Creeks made by the action of the waves. It is Situated on the S.W. [South West] side of the Lighthouse
OS1/13/1/11 [Page] 11 Parish of Island of May Trace B
OS1/13/1/11 Obvious conflict between the two position references i.e. "10 chains S.S.E" and "S.W" SW is the correct direction.
OS1/13/1/12 LADY'S CAVE Lady's Cave Lady's Cave James Laird Fisherman Crail Mr Crilie Lightkeeper Island of May 028 [Situation] Adjoining Pilgrim's Harbour. A natural Cave in the rock on the N.E. [North East] side of Pilgrims Haven. Said to have been occupied for some years by a Lady who was put ashore on the island by her husband and then deserted her. She was Supported while living in the Cave by the families of the fishermen who at the period resided on the Island.
OS1/13/1/12 CHAPEL (Ruins of) [Isle of May] Chapel Chapel Chapel James Laird Crail Revd. [Reverend] W Merson Crail. Mr Crilie 028 [Situation] About 15 Chains S.S.E. [South South East] from Light House. A ruin Said to be the remains of a Chapel situated in the Southern end of the island. The walls are in good preservation and nearly entire: it is now used as a place for sheltering Cattle in Stormy weather. I could not ascertain any tradition concerning the date of its erection or by whom it was built.
OS1/13/1/12 [Page]12 Parish of Island of May Trace B [Quotation] "This island (May) once famous for the Cure of barren women, belonged at one time to the monks of Reading for whom David I founded a monastery which was afterwards dedicated to St Adrian, whose body was buried there, And whose Coffin, cut out of Stone is still exhibited in the ruins of the Chapel. " Stat. Acct. [Statistical Account] of Fife page 943.
OS1/13/1/13 PILGRIMS HAVEN Pilgrims Haven Mr Crilie Lighthousekeeper Isle of May. James Laird Fisherman Crail Sibbalds history of Fife. Matthew Laird Alexander Tailor 028 [Situation] About 30 Chains S.S.E. [South South East] from Light House A Small bay or creek on the West Side of the Island near its south end Some times used as a landing place during easterly winds
OS1/13/1/13 LADY'S WELL Lady's Well Mr Crilie Isle of May James Laird Crail 028 [Situation] About 33 Chains S.S.E. [South South East] from Light House. A Spring Well in Pilgrims Haven close to the Sea Side. The water is of An indifferent quality and Seldom used except for Cattle.
OS1/13/1/13 MAIDEN HAIR Maiden Hair Mr Crilie Isle of May James Laird Crail 028 [Situation] About 60 Chains S.S.E. [South South East] from Light House. A rugged rock on the South West end of the island jutting into the sea and covered at high Water.
OS1/13/1/13 [Page] 13 Parish of Island of May Pilgrims Haven Lady's Well Maiden Hair
OS1/13/1/14 THE PILLOW The Pillow Mr Crilie Lightkeeper Island of May James Laird Fisherman Crail 028 [Situation] About 30 Chains E.S.E. [East South East] from Light House. A small narrow channel immediately east of "Kirk Haven" through which fishing boats have ingress and egress at full tides.
OS1/13/1/14 KIRK HAVEN [Isle of May] Kirk Haven Kirk Haven Mr. Crilie Isle of May James Laird Crail 028 [Situation] About 30 Chains E.S.E. [East South East] from Light House. A small bay on the east Side of the island. Near its Southern end used as a harbour. There is also a Small Stone pier in it which was erected by the Commissioners of Lighthouses to facilitate the landing of Stores etc for the lighthouse.
OS1/13/1/14 SOUTH NESS [Isle of May] South Ness South Ness Mr Crilie Isle of May James Laird Crail 028 [Situation] South Eastern extremity of Isle of May The South east point of the Island of May
OS1/13/1/14 [Page] 14 Parish of Island of May
OS1/13/1/15 Site of VILLAGE [Isle of May] Village (site of) Village (Site of) Rev [Reverend] William Merson. James Laird Fisherman Crail 028 [Situation] About 30 Chains S.E. [Southeast] from Light House Immediately South of the ruins of the Chapel is the Site of a fishing village which existed her some centuries back but of which there is Scarcely a vestige now remaining, except some small portions of the foundations of some of the houses.
OS1/13/1/15 [Page] 15 Parish of.. Site of Village [Note - should be Site of a Village o.m.o [Ordnance Mapping Office]
OS1/13/1/16 16 [Blank page]
OS1/13/1/17 TARBETHOLE Tarbethole Tarbethole Turpithol Mathew Laird Fisherman Crail Alexander Taylor Fisherman Crail Sibbalds Hist. [History of Fifeshire] 028 [Situation] About 13 Chains N.by W. [North by West] from Light House A small creek on the east side of the island and a little south of East Tarbet, sometimes used by fishing boats as a harbour.
OS1/13/1/17 MAIDEN'S BED Maidens Bed Maidens Bed Mathew Laird Crail Alexander Taylor Fisherman Crail 028 [Situation] South Eastern extremity of Isle of May This name applies to a small rocky bay at the South end of the island Said to have derived the name from a Vessel called the Maiden which was wrecked here.
OS1/13/1/17 [Page] 17 Plan of the Island of May
OS1/13/1/18 THE PILGRIMS The Pilgrims The Pilgrims Rev. [Reverend] Mr Merson Crail Mathew Laird Crail 028 [Situation] About 18 Chains S.S.E. [South South East] from Light House This name applies to two Spiral rocks rising nearly perpendicularly out of the Sea on the west Side of the Island and contiguous to Pilgrims Haven
OS1/13/1/18 18 Plan of the Isle of May [signed] "James Carpenter C. Asst. [Civilian Assistant] 23rd Dec. 1853" [Signed] W James. Capt.R.E. [Captain, Royal Engineers] 30 Dec. 1853
OS1/13/1/19 O.S.O. [Ordnance Survey Office] Edinburgh 22nd Sept. 1853. Plan of the Isle of May. In Sibbalds History of Fife it is said 'There was a priory here for Some monks of the order of St Augustine it was a cell belonging to St Andrews and was much repaired to for the great reputation of St Adrians Chapel for that he was buried there being murdered by the Danes before they attacked Fife and is said to have cured many barren women" etc. Enquiry to be made Concerning the "Site of Priory" noticed in the above history and the Site or remains or ruins as the Case may be to be Shewn on trace and Descriptive Remarks to be written. Also is this St. Adrians Chapel which is Shewn on trace and designated Chapel (ruins of)? as noticed in the Hist. [History] above referred to. In the above history there is also noticed "Four places where boats could harbour Called Tarpithol, Altarstans, Pilgrims haven and Kirk haven," The first of these has not been noticed by the examiners. Enquiry to be made Concerning the name "Tarpithol" also enquire th... OS Cupar 15th December 1853 Sir. The Revd [Reverend]. Mr Merson of Crail says that little or no reliance Can be placed on any tradition among the inhabitants of Crail beyond what is stated in the Statistical account of the County and in Lyons Hist. of St Andrews. JM Diarmid C.A. [Civilian Assistant] The site of the Priory Cannot be ascertained. There is not a vestige of it now remaining to point out the spot where it stood. [Initialled] JMD This chapel is said to be a more modern erection than St Adrians Chapel, And was erected on the site of St Adrians; for the accommodation of a number of fishermens families who resided on the Island. Tarbethole is now Supplied. See Name Sheet and Trace. J.M.D.
OS1/13/1/20 [Note contd from P 19] ... proper spelling and write Descriptive Remarks etc. Is there a place at the S.E. [South East] end of the island called Maidensbed: Enquiry to be made and descriptive remarks to be written. Also authority to be given for the name The Pilgrims. Pilgrim Haven. Should not this be written Pilgrim's Haven? not Pilgrim Haven? Black Haugh, "A black rocky ridge on the west side of the island " etc. This name is rather doubtful Haugh is a designation for low ground but Heugh is often applied to such objects, as the one above described. Therefore Should not the name be Black Heugh? Will you have the goodness to give as much information as you can get concerning the priory and of St Adrians Chapel referred to in another part of this sheet . Supplied. See Trace & form 21 sent herewith. J.M.D Pilgrims' Haven is the correct name. Revd [Reverend] Mr Merson and Mathew Laird Crail may be used for Authorities. Black Heugh is the correct name. It was written Haugh in mistake. Authorities Mathew Laird Fisherman Crail Alexander Tailor Fisherman Crail. The only information I was able to gather Concerning the Priory & St Adrians Chapel was only a repetition of what is stated in the New Stat: Acc: [New Statistical Accout] by the Rev. [Reverend] W. Merson of Crail and Sibbalds History of Fife. J.M.D
OS1/13/1/21 [continued] ....Concerning the monastery of the Isle of May you will find the most accurate acct. [account] of it in Lyons Hist [History] of St. Andrews vol 1 page 40. "A monastery existed here prior to 874. In that year St. Adrian was killed here by the Danes as were also 6600 other Christians. Afterwards a great monastery was built of polished Stones in honour of St Adrian the church of which enriched by his relics was a place of great devotion. A fragment of a stone coffin still remains in the island which tradition has long asserted to have been the depository of the bones of the Saint". From the few inhabitants at present in the Isle of May it is probably very little information could be obtained. Perhaps the minister of Crail could give some information as to the objects here enquired or at least might direct you where such could be obtained. However the principal objects are two, viz. Tarpithol, and The Monastery. Then maybe some person in the neighbourhood of Crail having some knowledge of....contd. [signed] By Order R. Quin Corpl. RS&M [Corporal Royal Sappers & Miners]
OS1/13/1/22 [page] 22 [continued] ..the island and of its history which perhaps you may find out while making enquiry in that locality.
OS1/13/1/23 23 Co. [County of] Fife. Plan 28C Names of Parishes...Pages. (Extra Parochial)