Curle Diary 06

Page Transcription Transcriber's notes
gb0551ms-36-19-1 [Page] 1 10th August 1910. Bicycled with J. & Mr Weir, my learned assistant towards the N. [North] end of Loch Calder. At Westfield I called on Mr. Campbell ground officer for the Forse Estate and explained my business. He showed me a sandstone whorl with a dia. [diameter] of about 1 1/2” pierced with three holes in line, the perfor: :ations being made from both sides. I suggested he should give it to the Museum which I think he will. Hill of Leurary Hut (31) At the N. [North] end of the top of the Hill of Leurary are the remains of a small circular hut with an interior diameter of 7’ by 8’. The bank, which has been formed entirely of turf, is much worn down and measures about 6’ in width. The Entrance has been from the E.S.E. [East South East] and 2’ wide. Long Cairn Loch Calder (30) “Tulach an T’Sionnaich” At the N. [North] end of Loch Calder and about 100 yds. [yards] from the turn of the E. [East] shore is a long cairn completely overgrown with vegetation. Its main axis lies WNW [West North West] and ESE [East South East] and its broader end is in the latter direction. The total length is 195’: the width at the WNW. [West North West] extremity 28’ and at the ESE. [East South East] 53’. The greatest elevation is about 6’. There are no surface indications of the existence [Continued on page 2]
gb0551ms-36-19-2 [Page] 2 [Continued from page 1] of horns. Along both sides at irregular inter: :vals the top of upright slabs protrude set with their faces in line of the direction of the cairn and probably marking its outline. At 40’ from the WNW. [West North West] end near the medial line of the cairn an upright slab measuring 4’ across and another inclined at an angle towards it indicate the position of a cist or chamber. At several points stone has been removed and a trench has been excavated right across at about 50’ from the ESE [East South East] end. The cairn otherwise does not seem to have been excavated. Mounds Loch Calder (8) At the N. [North] end of Loch Calder, towards the E [East] side and about 100 yds. [yards] from the shore are two Mounds overgrown with vegetation and standing within 100 yds. [yards] of each other. The character of both is obscure. The westmost which is the largest measures over all 112’ by 87’ and has an elevation of about 12’. Over the surface are a number of small circular depressions measuring about 6’ in diameter and one or two of large dimensions all semingly connected. The mound shows no indication of its being a cairn nor does it suggest a broch structure. If it is a broch it has a number of secondary con: :structions built on the top of the ruin. [Continued on page 3]
gb0551ms-36-19-3 [Page] 3 [Continued from page 2] In appearance it bears a resemblance to the structures near Dunbeath p. [page] 93 (Nos 93 & 94) The Eastmost Mound has a diameter of 66’ by 60’ and is of low elevation. An entrance passage visible at its inner end where it is 3’ in width leads inwards from the N. [North]. In the interior a number of large thin slabs set on end protrude from the turf at various points, and one pointed stone such as is used to form a pillar in a galleried house. The number and position of the slabs do not suggest a chambered cairn and the remains are probably those of a dwelling of some sort. Their dwellings seem to be akin to the secondary structures so frequently found in this county surrounding the brochs. Cairn. Westfield (26) At the edge of a grass park some 3/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of Westfield House and about 160 yds. [yards] to the S. [South] of the Forse Water is a cairn entirely overgrown with grass. It has a diameter of about 36’ and an elevation of 3’.6”. The top of a large slab protruding near the centre suggests that it is of a chambered character. About 100 yds [yards] to the N. [North] of the last and about 60 yds. [yards] back from the Forse Water on the top of the bank is a circular mound [Continued on page 4]
gb0551ms-36-19-4 [Page] 4 [Continued from page 3] overgrown with grass which is evidently a cairn. It measures in diameter about 36’ and in elevation about 5’. Broch Knockglas (25) Rising from the cultivated fields about 1/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of the ? Mill of Knockglass and some 80 yds. [yards] back from the N. [North] bank of the Forse Water is a high grassy hillock on the top of which are the remains of a broch. The portion of the Mound containing the ruins has a diameter of about 70’ and an elevation of about 8’. No part of the structure is visible at any point. Between the base of the broch and the edge of the lower slope of the Mound there appears to have existed the usual terrace. The highest elevation of the whole Mound is from 16’ to 17’. Broch Site Knockglas (27) In a meadow by the left bank of the Forse Water about 3/4 m. [mile] above the Mill of Knockglas is a small fragment of a building. The character & curve of the wall suggest that it is the remains of a broch. Westfield St. Trostan’s Chapel. S. [Site] & Font. Built into the SE. [South East] wall of the graveyard at Westfield is evidently the font of the church or chapel which formerly stood here It is an oval block of sandstone rounded at the bottom 22” in length 17” in breadth, [Continued on page 5]
gb0551ms-36-19-5 [Page] 5 [Continued from page 4] and 13” in depth. The basin, which is also oval, measures 12 1/2 “ by 11” and is 8” deep. Having learned from Mr. Campbell that human remains had been recently found near the site of a cairn at Achscrabster quarries I bicycled thither but failed to locate anything of interest. 11th August 1910. A long wearisome drive in a comfortless dogcart to Shurrery. At Shurrery Mr. William Farquhar whose croft is behind the church had two remarkable stones which he found in his field about 100 yds. [yards] to the NE. [North East] at a depth of about 1 1/2’ below the surface of the ground They are irregularly shaped quadrangular blocks of sandstone about 2’ long, 1’ broad and 5” to 6” thick. Near the upper end of one block and near the centre of the other have been worked holes from either side in directly opposing directions, some 2” in diameter at the mouth and gradually diminishing inwards. The holes are from 1 1/2“ to 3 1/2“ in depth. In the centre of each hole has been left a small truncated cone about 1” in height and 1” in diameter. There is space of about 8” on the surface between the outer lip of the holes in each case and in each case their [Continued on page 6]
gb0551ms-36-19-6 [Page] 6 [Continued from page 5] [Opposite page - Photograph inserted] direction is diagonally through the stone. The direction of each pair of holes indicates that perforation was aimed at but why in each instance the small cone should have been left is difficult to understand. From the coincidence of four examples and the apparent calculated opposition of the holes in each stone a natural origin can not be considered possible. So much puzzled was I that I carried off one block in the dog -cart to send to Dr. [Doctor] Anderson! ? Cairn Shurrery (45) See p. [page] 80 Between the church at Shurrery and the house of Mr. William Farquhar in rear of it is a large cairn like heap of stones. From E. [East] to W. [West] it measures some 90’ and from N [North] to S. [South] about the same but the building of the church and the operations on the croft have probably curtailed its dimensions in the latter directions. The elevation is from 6’ to 7’. Along the E. [East] side towards the N [North] end four large slabs stand exposed against the cairn with their faces parallel, and one similar slab in the row lies fallen. They measure from 4’ to 5’ in height above ground – 3’ to 4’ in breadth & about 10” in thickness. If the fallen [Continued on page 7]
gb0551ms-36-19-7 [Page] 7 [Continued from page 6] stone was re-created they would stand from 4’ to 5’ apart. The direction of the line they form is N [North] and S. [South] and protruding from the top of the cairn to the S. [South] of the fifth stone are other three similar stones continuing the line. On the W. [West] side of the cairn at 14’ and 18’ dis: :tant from members of the row opposite two slabs similarly set appear to belong to a parallel row. There is no clue to the character of this construction. The size & form of the upright slabs and their distance from each other in the row is almost identical with these features of the stone setting at Achkinloch, Rangag. Standing Stone Shurrery (46) Some 300 yds. [yards] SSE. [South South East] of the church at Shurrery is a standing stone. It is a broad angular slab pointed upwards measuring 3’.6” in height, 4’ in breadth at the centre, 2’.8” in breadth at the base and 1’.4” in thickness. It faces NE. [North East] and SW. [South West] At 147’ to the NE. [North East] of it a pointed stone set on end protrudes some 2’ from the peat in which it is firmly set. ? Cairn Shurrery. (47) About 1/4 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of the church are the inconsiderable remains of a circular construction which has been recently demolished for road metal. It has a diameter of about 90’. In the interior [Continued on page 8]
gb0551ms-36-19-8 [Page] 8 [Continued from page 7] are still remaining a number of large upright slabs set on their edge appearing to form parts of five or six different rows set parallel at about 5’ from each other. The longest slab is 7’.3” in length, some of them have been broken and merely protrude above the ground. The condition of the monument, unfortunately renders the planning of it useless. It is impossible to say whether the ring of stones which remains to mark the outer limits has been constructed or not. ? Stone Circle Remains Shurrery (Unnoted) About 120 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the church at Shurrery are two pointed stones set on end, the Eastmost measuring 3’.6” in breadth at base, 2’.2” in height and 1’ in thickness and the other 3’.2” in breadth, 2’ in height. They stand 11’.4” apart at slightly divergent angles and appear to have formed part of a stone circle. The ground in front where the rest of the circle would have stood has been dug for peats. Both stones stand with their faces in line of the presumed circumference. Footmark Port an eilein (Unnoted) On the W [West] end of the summit of the hill of Port -an-eilein about 1/2 to 3/4 m. [mile] NE. [North East] of Shurrery church is a flat exposed rock surface measuring some 10’ square [Continued on page 9]
gb0551ms-36-19-8a [Page 8a] Cairn at Shurrery. destroyed by the road contractor. [Sketch inserted]
gb0551ms-36-19-8b [Page 8b] See plan made with Prof. [Professor] Bryce on second visit. This is un: :doubtedly a chambered cairn probably of plan similar to that behind the church. ^ if the rows are considered as lying in the direction of the long axis of the slabs. If however as in the previous case the rows are formed of slabs set with their faces across the direction of the rows then there appear to be the remains of three or four rows. [Sketch inserted]
gb0551ms-36-19-9 [Page] 9 [Continued from page 8] [Opposite page - photograph and text inserted] “Clach-na-luirg”. or ”Lorg-an-fhiannaidh” “The stone of the footprint or The footprint of the Giant.” Towards the N [North] end near the mesial line there has been hollowed out the impression of a human left foot. It is exactly 12” in length. 6” in breadth across the sole and 4 1/2” across the heel, while the depth of the depression is about 1 1/4“. The foot is regularly shaped, the arch below the instep and the narrowing of the sole at that point being clearly indicated. The artificial character of the mark seems quite obvious. It is set exactly N & S. [North & South] Magnetic. i.e. N. [North] 18º W [West] and S. [South] 18º E [East]. ? cists Shurrery. On the NE. [North East] side of the road from Shurrery to Brawlbin about 1/2 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of Shurrery church at the W. [West] end of a low natural ridge are the remains of three small cist like compartments formed of flags set on end. The best preserved is near the centre of the ridge. The flags of which it is formed stand 1’.2” above the ground level on the outside but in the interior are exposed to a height of 2’.9”. One side slab and the two end slabs remain. The length is 3’.8” and the breadth of the end slabs. 2’ & 2’.8”. The main axis lies NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East]. Some 10’ to the NW [North West] and the same distance to the SE [South East] are [Continued on page 10]
gb0551ms-36-19-10 [Page] 10 [Continued from page 9] [Opposite page - photograph inserted] the remains of similar cist-like constructions. There is no sign of the existence of a cairn or mound. Foundations (57. & 58) On the low side of the road from Shurrery to Brawlbin about 1 m. [mile] S.E [South East] of the church at the former place are the sites of two constructions presumably prehistoric. Being entirely over: :grown with a deep sward their character is not evident. Brawlbin (59) In a field about 1/2 m. [mile] SSW. [South South West] of Brawlbin is the site of some construction removed in the course of cultivation. (Omit) Brawlbin ? (66) About 1.m [mile] SW. [South West] of Brawlbin Farm on the moor is a green mound. It is evidently stony and has the appearance of a cairn. In diameter it measures over all 50’ and in elevation about 6’. On the top is a slight circular depression some 12’ - 13’ in diameter. Facing ENE [East North East] some 16’ in from the outer edge an entrance is exposed 3’.6” in width passing beneath a lintel 8’.4” in length. 2’.10” in breadth and 9” in thickness. Immediately in rear of this lintel is a second similar in length & breadth but 1’.9” in thickness. The sides of the passage supporting these [Continued on page 11]
gb0551ms-36-19-11 [Page] 11 [Continued from page 10] [Opposite page - text inserted] In rear of the back lintel 2 upright flags set edgeways to the wall of the passage are visible massive blocks of stone are built and are exposed for a length of 6’.6”. The entrance is filled to a height of 1’.7” from the lintel. The uncovered upper sides of the lintel are almost level with the top of the mound and there is no indication of any superstructure. The inner side of the back lintel is 28’ distant from the edge of the mound at the back. If this is a chambered cairn the height & width of the entrance passage is very remarkable. There is no indication of excavation. Some 60’ to the N. [North] are the indefinite remains of another construction of slight elevation and entirely overgrown with turf. From the surface here and there the heads of thin slabs set on end protrude but without excavation the plan and character of the construction cannot be determined. Brawlbin Horned long Cairn (unnoted) On the moor of Brawlbin about 100 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of Loch a Mhuilinn are the remains of a horned long cairn. It lies with its longest axis NNE [North North East] and SSW [South South West], rising and expanding in the former direction. The body of the cairn except the high portion at the NNE. [North North East] end which probably contains the chamber has [Continued on page 12]
gb0551ms-36-19-12 [Page] 12 [Continued from page 11] been simply eradicated for the sake of its stones a mere line along each side only being left. At the SSW [South South West] end the existence of the horns is apparent but as they are entirely overgrown their exact dimensions are not accurately obtainable without excavation. The distance between what appears to be their outer points is 45’ and the length thence to the centre of that end of the cairn is 28’. At the NNW. [North North West] end the horns are not evident. The total length of the cairn is some 200’. Its breadth at the NNW [North North West] end 54’ and across the body at the SSE [South South East] end 30’. The elevation at the former end is about 10.’ A slight circular depression about 8’ in diameter at the high end probably indicates the position of the chamber. On the W. [West] side towards the S. [South] end the outer constructional wall is still quite evident. Some 60’ from the SSE [South South East] end a large upright slab standing at right angles to the main axis possibly indicates the site of a chamber. Fort Brawlbin (4) Occupying the N. [North] end of an eminence that rises from the moor of Brawlbin about 3/4 m. [mile] SSE. [South South East] of Shurrery church is a prehistoric fort. [Continued on page 13]
gb0551ms-36-19-13 [Page] 13 [Opposite page - text inserted] At the S. [South] end of the low ridge on which the fort stands are the indefinite remains of a small structure apparently circular. It is circular in form subtended on the S. [South] by a straight side and is surrounded by a stone wall some 6’ to 7’ in thickness and about 2’ in height on the external face. It measures interiorly [--] from N to S [North to South] by [--] from E to W. [East to West] (O.S. [Ordnance Survey] measurements) An angle in the wall on the W. [West] side suggests the position of an entrance and a large slab protruding across the wall at the NE [North East] may indicate the situation of another. The principal entrance, however, appears to have been from the SE. [South East] through the wall immediately to the S. [South] of the large circular enclos: :ure abutting on it towards the S. [South] end of the E [East] side. This entrance appears to have been 4’ in width. The circular enclosure referred to is entered from the E [East] and measures interiorly 27’ x 32’. It is surrounded by a stone wall, now ruined, some 7’.6” in thickness. The interior of this enclosure has been excavated to a depth of several feet at the back so as to bring the floor to the level of the entrance on the lower slope of the hill. Within the interior of the fort at the SW. [South West] angle some 15’ back from the wall are the remains of a small circular enclosure with a diameter over all of some 25’. It has been entered [Continued on page 14]
gb0551ms-36-19-14 [Page] 14 [Continued from page 13] from the SE. [South East]. In the interior the wall is visible for a height of about 1’.6” and suggest a “beehive” structure. There appears to be two small chambers to the right and left of the end of the entrance passage about 5’ in diameter but the plan is not clear. Creagan Tigh a’ bheannaich At the croft of Tigh a bheannaich, Shurrery, about 100 yds [yards] back from the river is a low stony mound from which a number of large stones protrude through the turf. It is said to be the site of a graveyard but more resembles the ruin of some primitive dwelling such as are to be found in the neighbourhood. The name suggests a primitive oratory or church cf. Tigh Beanachadh in Gallan Head, Lewis, Foundation Shurrery (51) On the W. [West] side of the road about 600 yds [yards] N. [North] of the N. [North] end of Loch Shurrery are the remains of a large, oval, many chambered construction. Over all it measures 88’ from E to W. [East to West] by 56’ from N to S. [North to South] Numerous large pointed stones protrude irregularly through the turf At the E [East] side the outline of an oblong com: :partment some 23’ in length by 10' in breadth is apparent the wall of which at one end built of very large stones still stands to a height of about 3’. The outlines of foundations visible on the turf seem to indicate a number of small oblong compartments with probably a circular one in the centre but without [Continued on page 15]
gb0551ms-36-19-15 [Page] 15] [Continued from page 14] excavation the plan cannot be definitely determined. Shurrery. (53) On the E [East] side of the road some 200 yds [yards] N. [North] of the N. [North] end of Loch Shurrery is a circular con: :struction surrounded by a stone wall some 6’ in thickness. The entrance appears to have been from the SE. [South East] and the interior diameter is about 26’. Opening out of the main enclosure towards the W. [West] and NW. [North West] have been small circular enclosures of indefinite diameter. The whole structure is much overgrown. Foundations (52) On the left bank of the Forss water about 1/2 m. [mile] down from Loch Shurrery is a mound covered with the indefinite ruins of some primitive construction. It has been much quarried for stones and the plan is no longer evident. It has not the appearance of a broch though the small piece of wall visible on the S. [South] has the character of the wall of such a structure. There appears to have been a main central circular area with a diameter of 24’. entered from the W. [West] with various chambers opening off it To the N. [North] are the ruins of several small detached buildings [Continued on page 16]
gb0551ms-36-19-16 [Page] 16 [Continued from page 15] Torrovaich Shurrery (50) Some 200 yds [yards] ENE. [East North East] of the shepherd’s house at Torrovaich and just outside the wall of an enclosed park are the ruins of a large circular construction in the building of which stones of great size have been em: :ployed. It has been circular with a diameter over all of 53’. The entrance has been from the NW. [North West] measuring 2’ in width at its outer extremity and the passage wall is evident on the right for a distance of 10’. On the left side it is less well preserved. On that side there appears to be an entrance to a chamber. The inner face of the wall is not visible. The number of large flat slabs lying exposed over the surface and certain features of the ruin suggest that possibly it is not that of a broch. The elevation is some 4’ to 5’ at most. Tigh a Bheannach (49) About 1/4 m. [mile] down the the Forse Water from Tigh a’ bheanniach on the same side of the river are the indefinite remains of a large circular construction. A number [Margin] ? a primitive oratory or hermits house like that on p. [page] 14 [Initialled] J.C. of large slabs set upright protrude irregu: :larly over the surface but there are no indications of either either the character or plan of the construction. It appears to have belonged to the same class as [Continued on page 17]
gb0551ms-36-19-17 [Page] 17 [Continued from page 16] [Opposite page - photograph inserted] some of the others in the district. Re: :turning to Shurrery we loaded up with one of the curious holed stones and had a cold and tedious drive back to Thurso which we reached about 8. o’clock. 12th Augt. [August] 1910. A thoroughly wet day which gave me an opportunity of writing up my journal. 13th Augt. [August] 1910. Broch Geise (10) Off on bicycle at 10.0. At the edge of a field beside the Geise burn about 1/4 m. [mile] W. [West] by S. [South] of Geise is a mound overgrown with grass. It appears to have been a broch but it has been quarried into at some time & the greater part of the structure has been removed so that there is now no definite indication of its character Skinnet Chapel Sculptured Stone (unnoted) Standing some 6’ out from the S. [South] wall of the ruined church of Skinnet and towards the W. [West] end of it, is an upright slab measuring 4’.11” in height above ground, 2’.9” in breadth and 5” in thickness. On the W. [West] face are the remains of an equal linked celtic cross. Only the upper arm remains at all perfect, the rest of the cross being almost effaced owing to the flaking of the surface of the stone. The arm expands upwards, is 1’ in length and 1’.3 1/2” broad at its outer end. Its [Continued on page 18]
gb0551ms-36-19-18 [Page] 18 [Continued from page 17] [Opposite page - sketch and text inserted] – There is at the British Linen Bank, House, Thurso a rough ovoid stone meas. [measuring] 1’.6” x 1’.3” with a hollow basin 8” x 9” in dia. [diameter] & 7” in depth which was brought from the chapel and has probably been a piscine or a holy water stoup of rude workmanship. width at the point of intersection is 2” The arms radiate from a central boss 2 1/2” in diameter It is convex at the extremity. It is surrounded by a single moulding and contains a triquetra knot of interlaced ornament. Chapel. St. Thomas’s. Skinnet. Situated about 1/3 m. [mile] to the NE. [North East] of Skinnet Farm & about 4 m. [miles] S. [South] of Thurso are the ruins of the chapel of St. Thomas. It is now much ruined. The S. & W. [South and West] walls vary in height from 3’ to 7’, the N. [North] wall is reduced to 2’ or 3’ as is also the greater part of the E. [East] wall. In plan the building has been of the chancelled type measuring interiorly 59’.6” in length. Whereof the nave measured 38’ x 16’ and the chancel about 21’ by 13’. the diminution of the width being caused by the [--] of the N. [North] wall only The walls which have been built with clay for mortar, are 3’.6” in thickness. The entrance to the church has been through the S [South] Wall at 12’ from the SW. [South West] corner and has been 3’ in width while an entrance to the chancel near its W. [West] end has also been through the S. [South] wall. In the S. [South] wall of the nave have been two small oblong windows 1’.9” in height by 7” in width passing straight through the wall for 1’.2” and immediately widening thereafter to 3’. A similar window has existed in the S. [South] wall of the chancel. At the SW. [South West] corner of the building on the [Continued on page 19]
gb0551ms-36-19-19 [Page] 19 [Continued from page 18] outside a pillar roughly & perhaps naturally rounded stands about 2’ above ground. I could find no artificial markings on it as far as exposed. In the graveyard of St. Trostans I observed two similar stones laid horizontally but this had probably been done during some recent levelling of the graveyard. There are very few old stones in these churchyards bearing the emblems so familiar in the South country gravestones. In the low lying ground some 3/4 m. [mile] NE [North East] of Skinnet farm house, and about 200 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the Thurso River is a circular enclosure. Over all it measures some 48’ by 53’ with the longest axis NE [North East] and SW. [South West]. There is a hollow towards the SW. [South West] which may mark the position of the entrance but the surface is entirely covered with thick turf and details of the interior plan are quite obscure. Scrabster Broch (6) On the summit of an eminence in a grass park about 1/2 m. [mile] NW [North West] of Scrabster House are the remains of a broch of slight elevation and overgrown with turf. The diameter seems to be about 54’ but no part of the structure is visible. Bishop’s Castle (S) [Site] 5. On a low promontory rock rising from the shore about 1/2 m. [mile] to the W. [West] of Thurso [Continued on page 20]
gb0551ms-36-19-20 [Page] 20 [Continued from page 19] [Opposite page - text inserted] Thurso (24) An old roadway cut in the face of the bank between the Ruins of the Bishop’s Castle and the [--] burn at Scrabster House is known as the Bishop’s Walk. are the fragmentary ruins of the castle of the Bishops of Caithness. The ruins of a wall at the edge of the rock and the founda: :tions of one or two buildings which have surrounded the courtyard are all that remains. Holborn Head Fort. (1) Across the landward end of the Eastmost promontory of the headland are the ruins of a broad defensive wall built of the shaley slabs that outcrop in profusion all around. In several places the outer face of the wall is exposed for a height of from 2’ to 3’ but for the most part it is covered with debris or in ruins. The actual thickness of the wall is doubtful but it appears to have been 7’ or 8’. In front of this defence the neck of the pro: :montory is cut into from either side by deep narrow chasms into which the waves break reducing the passage way to about 60 yds. [yards]. The entrance through the wall has been opposite this passage. 15 Augt. [August] 1910. A low glass and a threatening looking morning. Started in a trap for Shurrig but the weather being so uncertain we turned our attention to the hill of Shebster [Continued on page 21]
gb0551ms-36-19-21 [Page] 21 [Continued from page 20] nearer to the road. Hill of Shebster (28). On the S. [South] end of the hill of Shebster to the East of the church and some 200 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the road is the site of a cairn. Material has been removed from it quite recently. Some 40 yds. [yards] to the E [East] of it is a small low cairn or mound with a diameter of about 16’. In the centre there is exposed a cist lying E [East] and W. [West] The slab at the W. [West] end has been removed as well as the covering slab. It measures 4’.3” in length to the W. [West] end of the side slabs and 1’.8” in breadth. On the slope of the hill to the S. [South] are the remains of other two or three stoney mounds. Hill of Shebster (27) At the SE. [South East] end of the Hill of Shebster and about 100 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the upper end of the W. [West] wall of the cultivated & enclosed parks at Shebster are the ruins of a circular en: :closure. The construction overall has a diameter of some 58’ and an elevation of 4’. It is entirely overgrown with thick turf and its character obscured. There is no indication of its having been a broch but it more resembles the contructions found near Shurrery. Foundations. Some 80 yds. [yards] to the Westward are the [Continued on page 22]
gb0551ms-36-19-22 [Page 22] [Continued from page 21] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] foundations of an oval or circular construc: :tion with a diameter of 40’ or thereby. There are a number of small circular depressions of some 5’ or thereby in diameter in the interior but the whole is overgrown with thick turf and the plan & character quite obscure. Hill of Shebster Chambered Cairn On the summit of the Hill of Shebster some ?400’ above sea level and and occupying a con: :spicuous position are the remains of a large chambered cairn. The cairn has been almost all cleared away except a small portion, some 5’ in height near the centre and evidently containing the ruins of a part of the chamber. The diameter of the cairn has been between 80’ & 90’. A number of thin slabs protrude from the debris indicating the position and extent of the chamber. The highest of these slabs is only some 2’.6” above the present level & the others merely pro: :trude. The passage seems to have entered from ESE [East South East] and the main axis of the chamber has been from WNW to ESE. [West North West] to [East South East]. At 30’ in from the edge of the cairn in the former direction is the top of a slab set on end 4’ in length which apparently marks the back of the chamber. Large slabs set at right angles to the direction evidently forming portals seem to indicate the existence [Continued on page 23]
gb0551ms-36-19-23 [Page] 23 [Continued from page 22] of four compartment and a total length of 23' for the chamber. Two small stones 7' apart are evidently in the wall of the passage. A little excavation would no doubt furnish the complete plan of the chamber. Cairn Achiesbreskill. (24) On the slope of the hill to the E [East] of Shebster Hill and by the side of a peat road leading from the yellow moss to Achreamie is a grassy hillock which appears to be a cairn It has a diameter of 81' and an elevation of from 6' to 8'. There is no sign of excavation. "Na Tri Sithean" Cnoc Freicedain. Horned Long Cairn (17) On the top of the summit to the N. [North] of the Hill of Shebster called Cnoc Freicedain is a horned long cairn one of the finest examples of this class of cairn in the county apparently unexcavated. Being over: :grown with turf the exact configuration and measurements of the horns are not obtainable but there existence is quite evident. The cairn lies with its longest axis WNW. [West North West] and ESE. [East South East] and has an extreme length from tip to tip of horns of 255'. The main body measures from 37' to 40' in breadth, and 4' to 5' in elevation. It expands and rises towards both ends but to the greater extent towards the ENE [East North East]. In that [Continued on page 24]
gb0551ms-36-19-24 [Page] 24 [Continued from page 23] direction the expansion commences some 70' from the end & increases to a breadth of 60 and a height of 10'. The horns at this end appear to be about 28' in length and to terminate obtusely. The distance between their outer ex: :tremities is some 73' and from the centre of the concave outline of the cairn, 38' or 39'. Towards the WNW. [West North West] the expansion & increase of elevation begins about 40' from the end and increases to 56' in breadth and 7' in height. The general appearance is that of a second circular cairn set on the low extremity of a long one. In rear of it is a slight trench across the body of the cairn. The horns seem to be shorter than at the opposite end and to measure about 15' in length. The distance between their outer extremities is about 60' and from the centre of the concavity of the cairn 33'. The facing wall is visible on the S. [South] side towards the ESE [East South East] end. A certain amount of quarrying has been done at both ends and at no distant date, but there is no evidence of the excavation of the chamber or chambers. At this point owing to the drenching rain accompanied by half a gale of wind I had [Continued on page 25]
gb0551ms-36-19-25 [Page] 25 [Continued from page 24] [Opposite page - photograph inserted] to give up work for the day. 16th Augt. [August] 1910. Another very wet-looking morning. Hired out to Shebster again and came in for a terrific shower on the way. The weather for the last month has been most disagreeable. Horned long Cairn Cnoc Freicedain About 100 yds [yards] N. [North] of the E. [East] end of the last long cairn is another of similar type stretching along the crest of the hill as it begins to slope towards the NNE. [North North East]. It lies NNE. and SSW. [North North East and South South West] and rises in height and increases in breadth towards the latter direction. The horns at that extremity are not apparent on the surface but at the NNE [North North East] end they are both visible, and that on the E [East] has been exposed to some extent by the removal of the turf. The total length irrespective of the horns at the SSW. [South South West] end is some 240'. The greatest width at the SSW [South South West] is 53' and the elevation some 8'. The cairn begins to expand at about 60' from the end. Immediately in rear of the expanded head, which rises almost like a separate cairn, is a slight depression or trench across the body which, however, is probably secondary. The breadth of the body of the cairn is about 35' and its elevation 4'. All along its length are small pits from which stones have been quarried. The width of the [Continued on page 26]
gb0551ms-36-19-26 [Page] 26 [Continued from page 25] terminal portion towards the NNE [North North East] is 37' and its elevation about 4', but as three large slabs set on end protrude for about 1'.6" through the turf indicating the existence of a chamber, it has formerly been higher. The length of the horns is about 20': the distance between their outer extremities 46': and thence to the centre of the concavity at that end of the cairns 29'. The SSW. [South South West] end shows no signs of excavation and the whole cairn is overgrown with turf. The O.S. [Ordnance Survey] indicates "standing stones" besides these cairns but none were observed except those protruding from the denuded chamber at the NNW. [North North West] end of the second cairn. Cairn Achreamie. (22). In an enclosed area of moorland about 1/2 m. [mile] S. [South] of Achreamie School are the remains of a small round cairn. It has a diameter of about 35' and an elevation of about 3'. Much of it has been removed but neither cist nor chamber has been exposed. Stone Rows Upper Dounreay. [Opposite page - text inserted] This description will require to be rewritten from the plan. In a hollow at the N. [North] end of Cnoch Freicedain about 3/4 m. [mile] E [East] of Upper Dounreay is a setting of stone rows. The rows, of which there appear to have been thirteen lie in a general direction NW & SE. [North West & South East] diverging somewhat towards the latter direction. [Continued on page 27]
gb0551ms-36-19-27 [Page] 27 [Continued from page 26] and curving slightly inwards from either side towards the central row. The stones are of the usual character, thin slabs protruding to about 1 1/2' above ground, set with their faces across the rows. Many of the stones are displaced and many sunk beneath the surface. The stones are placed some 5' to 6' apart and rows 6' - 8'. The number of stones in each row visible and in situ appears to be as follows. 1st row counting from the S [South] 5 stones 2nd row counting from the S [South] 9 stones 3rd row counting from the S [South] 7 stones 4th row counting from the S [South] 8 stones 5th row counting from the S [South] 7 stones 6th row counting from the S [South] 7 stones 7th row counting from the S [South] 4 stones 8th row counting from the S [South] 6 stones 9th row counting from the S [South] 4 stones 10th row counting from the S [South] 5 stones 11th row counting from the S [South] 2 stones 12th row counting from the S [South] 3 stones 13th ? [Inserted note ] See plan The width across the rows at the narrow end of the monument has been some 86'. and at the broad end about 110'. The greatest length of a row is 112'. At about 9' back from [Continued on page 28]
gb0551ms-36-19-28 [Page] 28 [Continued from page 27] from the westmost stone of the centre row is a setting of four stones from 1' to 1'.2" in length and the same in height above ground placed so that they form a somewhat irregular square of 4'. They are not set in the same direction as the rows but inclining towards the centre row at an angle of about 30 degrees. It is possible that this has nothing to do with the stone rows but its purpose is obscure. Across the centre line has been excavated an oblong pit such as might have contained a cist but, if such existed, no remains of it are visible. This monument must be surveyed and thereafter the foregoing description corrected. On the top of a bank to the W. [West] of the stone rows there are remains of two constructions which may have been small hut circles or mounds but their character is now indefinite. [Margin] Horned round Cairn (20.) On the W. [West] end of a slight ridge about 1/2 m. [mile] E [East] of Upper Dounreay are the remains of a horned round cairn. The heads of three large slabs protrude from the centre indica: :ting the position of the chamber otherwise the whole cairn is overgrown with grass. The diameter of the body of the cairn has been about 42'. The main axis of the chamber [Continued on page 29]
gb0551ms-36-19-29 [Page] 29 [Continued from page 28] has been WNW. [West North West] and ESE. [East South East] but there is no sign of the direction of the entrance passage. The horns have been some 22' in length and 17' in breadth at base while the distance between their extremities towards the WNW [West North West] has been 40'. At 13' from the outer end of the S. [South] horn, laid at right angles to its direction, has been a cist. One end and one side, consisting of single slabs remain showing a length of 3'.9" and a width of 1'.8". The upper edge of the slabs is level with the present surface and they are exposed for a height of some 8". [Margin] Standing Stone Upper Dounreay. (16) [Opposite page - photograph inserted] In a grass park 1/2 m [mile] E. [East] of Upper Dounreay and about 200 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the horned round cairn is a large standing stone. It is a slab of sand: :stone, slightly pointed at the upper end, 6'.7" in height above ground, 4'.2" in breadth and 1' in thickness. It faces ESE. [East South East] and WNW. [West North West]. [Margin] Standing Stone Upper Dounreay. (19) Some 300 yds [yards] ESE. [East South East] of the farm house of Upper Dounreay is a large columnar boulder in the middle of a corn field. It is now tilted considerably towards the W. [West]. It is roughly quadrangular measuring 6' in length by 2'.4" or thereby across each face. This has been another very showery day. [Continued on page 30]
gb0551ms-36-19-30 [Page] 30 [Continued from page 29] 17th Augt. [August] 1910. Another indifferent day. Hired a trap & took S. [Sandy] with me. Thurso Thingsva' Broch. (2) At the edge of the moorland towards the S. [South] end of Scrabster Hill is the broch of Thingsva. It has stood in the centre of a mound cut off from the higher level to the N. [North] by a ditch some 30' in width and 8' in depth below the top of the scarp & about 4' below the top of the bank above the counterscarp. The broch has occupied the centre of the mound some 18' to 20' back from the edge of the ditch. It has been partially excavated. The entrance passage has been from the SE. [South East] and appears to have been 15' in length and 3'.6" in width at the outer end. At 3'.10" inwards is a rebate for a door faced with slabs set edgeways into the wall constricting the passage to 2'.10" between them. The width in rear of them is 4'.3". On the right of the passage behind the door checks there has evidently been the entrance to a guard chamber the inner edge of which is visible but neither passage nor chamber are cleared of debris. At 8' inwards from the first door checks are another pair of slabs opposite to each other set edgeways into the walls. Within this the [Continued on page 31]
gb0551ms-36-19-31 [Page] 31 [Continued from page 30] left wall is concealed by a secondary wall curving round to the right into the interior of the broch which has not been cleared out. The passage is roofless throughout. The left wall wall exists to a height of about 4' and the right to about 3'. The inner face of the main wall of the broch is exposed at several points showing that the interior diameter was about 30'. The exterior is not laid bare. In addition to the secondary wall at the end of the passage another is visible some 9' to the left of it in the interior. The diameter of the mound across the top of the broch is about 110'. Thurso Thingsva' Broch (8) Some 60 yds [yards] ? E. [East] of the last is a low grassy mound with a diameter over all of about 70' and an elevation of about 6' which has to some extent been quarried into from the N. [North] side. It has the appearance of a broch. [Margin] Hopefield Cairn (12) Of the cairn at Hopefield indicated on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] there is now hardly a trace. A road has passed through it. (Thurso) Lythemore Broch (3) About 1/2 m. [mile] NNW. [North North West] of Lythemore at the upper end of a field which lies between the Forss Water and the road from Milton to [Continued on page 32]
gb0551ms-36-19-32 [Page] 32 [Continued from page 31] Forss are the ruins of a broch. The outer face of the walls is at several places exposed showing a diameter over all of some 58'. The greatest elevation is 4' to 5'. A considerable amount of stone is exposed on the surface but the broch does not appear to have been excavated. The situation is on an outcrop of rock with a burn flowing by the foot of it on the S. [South]. Reay. Stemster Broch, (34) Some 200 yds. [yards] SSE. [South South East] of the farmhouse of Stemster is a grassy knoll at the W. [West] end of which are the remains of a broch. The situation is a slight hollow at the top of a long slope up from the left bank of the Forss water and the broch is in consequence not seen from the valley below. The sides of the mound are steeply scarped to a height of about 8' but at the base on the NNW [North North West] a built face is ex: :posed showing that the mound has probably been reveted. The elevation of the part of the mound containing the ruins is about 5' and its diameter 70'. No part of the structure is visible. Over the top are a number of circular hollows from 2' to 3' in depth and varying from 10' to 15' in diameter which appear to be the remains of secondary constructions. The edge of [Continued on page 33]
gb0551ms-36-19-33 [Page] 33 [Continued from page 32] the mound has been surmounted by a parapet The space between the front of the broch & the edge of the mound is about 30'. [Margin] Stemster (Broch) At the edge of a field about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of Stemster Farm is a conical grassy mound which appears to contain the ruins of a broch. One half of it has been under cultivation and at no point is any part of the structure ex: :posed. The mound has an elevation of about 11' and a diameter over all of 108'. (Thurso) Oust. unnoted In the stackyard of the steading at Oust are two small subterraneous excavations which have probably been the well and cellar of a broch. The westmost of the two is a chamber, roughly rectangular about 5' square, the lower part of which is cut out of the solid rock and finished above with a converging roof covered with slabs. The greatest height is 5'.4" above the present floor level. It is reached by a steep flight of 14 steps cut out of the rock measuring 6" in breadth of tread. The stair way is 2' wide. The vertical height from the present floor level to the level of the top step is 8'.6" and to the ground 11'.3". Some 5' distant is the other entered from the opposite direction. It is a mere shaft [Continued on page 34]
gb0551ms-36-19-34 [Page] 34 [Continued from page 33] measuring about 2' square down one side of which are seven steps formed of three flags built into the wall so that there is a clear space between each and the stair is almost perpendicular. The shaft at the bottom curves slightly to the right & measures 4' x 2'. The lower portion is entirely cut out of the rock. The depth from the level of the original building to the lowest exposed floor level is 9'.2". 18th Aug. 1910. Olrig Thurdistoft. (13) In the middle of a cultivated field out 1/4 m. [mile] S [South] by W. [West] of the farm of Thurdistoft to the E [East] of Castletown are the remains of a broch. The outer face of the wall is exposed almost all round to a height of from 2' to 3' but the exact position of the entrance is obscured by vegetation. The diameter over all is 66', and the greatest elevation about 6'. There is no indication that the interior has been excavated. Bicycling on to Dunnet I met John Nicolson & his nephew, a schoolmaster in Perth. [Margin] Dunnet church [Opposite page - 2 photographs inserted] Dunnet church is a building which may date from the 17th century. Its most characteristic feature is a high gabled tower with its roof in the same line as the roof of the church, placed against the centre of the W. [West] wall. The tower measures 19' x 6'-3'. The church presents no other feature of interest. [Continued on page 35]
gb0551ms-36-19-35 [Page] 35 [Continued from page 34] Wick Par. [Parish] In the cultivated ground to the S. [South] of the moss of Quintfa' and about 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of Quintfa farm house is a mound overgrown with grass, measuring some 42' in diameter and about 6' in elevation. A trench was dug through it by the late Sir Francis Tress Barry almost to the ground level but no relics or interment were found. [Margin] Hunspow St. John's loch Cairn (13) At Hunspow by the N. [North] end of St. John's loch are the remains of a small cairn measuring some 21' in diameter and 2' - 3' in elevation. It appears to have been excavated and from the centre rises a single upright slab 2'.2" in height above ground by 3'.4" in breadth which may have formed a part of a cist. [Margin] Brough Castle, Site (2) On the landward end of a long rocky promontory about 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the E [East] end of the hamlet of Brough are the foundations of a castle. A trench some 40' wide and 10' to 12' deep has been dug across the neck and on either side of the rock in rear of it has been a range of buildings separated by a narrow courtyard or passage. The keep is not recognisable. The promontory tails away seawards to a shelf of rock. There appears to be no history of this castle. [Continued on page 36]
gb0551ms-36-19-36 [Page] 36 [Continued from page 35] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] [Margin] Site chapel Ham. (23) At the corner of a field to the E [East] of Kerry Goe, Ham, are evidently the foundations of some structure which may be those of the chapel. [Margin] Earth house Ham. (6) On the E [East] side of a small goe about 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of Ham harbour is an earth-house. A grassy mound some 62' in diameter and 6' in elevation is situated at the edge of the cliffs. At several places small excavations have been made in it disclosing its artificial character. Entering from S. [South] by W. [West] is the passage to a chamber in the centre both of which have been opened out. The outer portion of the passage as originally exposed on excavation extending for a distance of some 14' passing direct inwards for some 9' or 10' thereafter turning sharply to the left. Where now exposed it is built up each side and roofed with flags. In height it measures 3' and in width 2' and appears to pass along the original ground level. Curving slightly to the right it extends inwards for a dis: :tance of 13' increasing in height to 3'.10". In its course there are neither door checks nor bar holes. The chamber into the end of which the passage opens is oblong on plan and rounded at the back. It measures 14'.9" in length, 4'.10" in width at the entrance of the passage and 5'.11" at [Continued on page 37]
gb0551ms-36-19-37 [Page] 37 [Continued from page 36] its greatest width in the centre. The walls which are built slightly converge upwards and are roofed with flags. The greatest height in the centre from what appears to be the original floor level is 6'.6". In the end of the W. [West] wall where the curve of the back commences about 3' above the present floor level is a small recess or ambry. measuring 1' in height 1'.3" in breadth and 1'.6" in depth. The floor which is said to be paved is covered with a deposit nearly a foot in depth of soil and food refuse which has not been examined. There is a hole some 3' square in the centre of the roof where the slabs have apparently fallen in. The top of the roof is some 1'.6" to 2' below the present ground level. At the extreme outer end of the entrance passage is an oval depression measuring 27' x 14' which was not excavated. Mound. At the edge of the bank above the shelving rocks about 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of Rattar House is a low mound which has been partially carried away. It has a diameter of 30' and an elevation of 1 1/2' to 2'. Its character is not apparent. In a field about 1/4 m. [mile] NNW [North North West] of Rattar House are the fragmentary remains of a [Continued on page 38]
gb0551ms-36-19-38 [Page] 38 [Continued from page 37] [Opposite page - text inserted] There are no remains worth noting of the "broch" marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] near the mouth of the Rattar Burn. large circular construction the stones from which have been removed. It has probably been a broch. About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of Rattar House and a short distance to the N. [North] of the last is a grassy mound oval on plan. It lies NE [North East] and SW. [South West] and measures 45' x 30' and 5' in elevation. It was partially opened by Mr. John Nicolson and running along it from the SW [South West] end was found a passage 4' deep by 2' wide. faced with slabs set on end and covered by flat stones for lintels. There was found in this passage a stone pounder, 2 split bones and a quantity of shells of edible molluscs. Some 30' to the SW. [South West] of the mound there project from the turf the heads of three large slabs. all facing N [North] & S. [South] two in line & one a short distance to the rear opposite the space between the two advance slabs. Kirk o' Tang S. [Site] (25) The outline on the turf marking the foundations of this church are clearly visible close beside the sea to the E [East] of the burn of Rattar. It appears to have been a chancelled building measuring interiorly about 32' x 12' What appears to be the wall of the chancel occurs at 17' from the W. [West] end. Close beside the Kirk to seawards were found [Continued on page 39]
gb0551ms-36-19-39 [Page] 39 [Continued from page 38] certain silver armlets some in the Museum in Edinburgh and the rest said to be in the Thurso Museum. The circumstances of their discovery are recorded in the Proceedings of the Soc. [Society] of Ant. [Antiquaries] Scot. [Scotland] Along the shingle near the Rattar burn the Oyster plant, mertensia maritima grows freely. At the N. [North] end of St. John's Loch I found a pretty little creeping plant which was new to me evidently the bog pimpernel. It flowered in great profusion. 19th Augt. [August] A very wet morning. Wrote up notes all day. 20th Augt. [August] 1910 Another showery day. Thurso. Rossy Hillock. (13) About 1/4 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of West Murkle Farm House at the corner of a field is a mound which bears the name of Rossy Hillock. It probably covers the ruins of a broch but it has been long under cultivation and its dimensions are now quite indefinite. Just opposite the termination of the farm road which leads past West Murkle farm is a small promontory across the landward end of which is a wall or rampart some 8' to 10' in thickness, 8' in height from the landward side and 6' to seaward. The end & sides of the promontory are much eroded and there is no trace of the structure, if any, which formerly existed in rear of the defences. Methow Hillock (14) About 1/2 m. [mile] NE. [North East] of West Murkle farm [Continued on page 40]
gb0551ms-36-19-40 [Page] 40 [Continued from page 39] [Opposite page - photograph inserted] and about 100 yds. [yards] back from the edge of the cliffs is a large grassy mound known as the Methow Hillock. It has an elevation of 10' or 11' and a diameter of 120' but it has been under cultivation and ploughed down to some extent. The mound in rear of the farm cottages at West Murkle which is clearly of artificial character is said to have been formed from the soil & excavated when the farm buildings were built. Except for the absence of stone apparent on the surface it might easily pass for a broch. 22nd Augt. [August] 1910. Halkirk Standing Stones (28) Hired out to Assery at the N. [North] end of Loch Calder. On the moor about 1 m. [mile] NE. [North East] of Brubster Village are the remains of a setting of standing stones which appear to have been a monument similar to that at Achkinloch beside the loch of Stemster. There are in all only 7 stones visible but it is probable that others exist sunk beneath the peat. The main axis of the monument which appears to have been oval on plan, lies NE [North East] and SW [South West]. At the NE [North East] end stands a slab pointed upwards 5'.5" in height and 3'.7" in breadth at base facing E [East] by N. [North] and W. [West] by S [South]. Some 43' to the W. [West] of it a thin portion of another slab is visible on the surface 1'.6" in breadth facing NE [North East] & SW [South West]. At [Continued on page 41]
gb0551ms-36-19-41 [Page] 41 [Continued from page 40] 22' to the SW another, parallel, protrudes to a height of 7" with a breadth of 1'.11" - and At 37' is another visible to the same height and with a breadth of 2'.2". While 12'.10" beyond it again is a fourth slab 1'.3" high above ground 3'.10" in breadth and 1'.3" in thickness. On the opposite side of the oval at 87' distant from this last stone & to the SE. [South East] is a single slab set facing in the same direction. 3'.8" in breadth, 1'.9" in height above ground and 10" in thickness. At the SW. [South West] end of the monument [--] ft. [feet] distant from the first stone stands another tall pillar - 6'.11" in height, 2'.3" in breadth and 1'.9" in thickness. The ground in the centre has been dug to some extent for peats. At one or two points small heaps of stones or hollows seem to indicate the positions of slabs which have been removed while the existence of others in situ may be observed by probing. The total length of the monument has been some [--] ft. [feet] and its width 87'. (Halkirk) Corr a' Chaise. Bridge of Brubster (28) At the edge of an enclosed cultivated area in the moorland about 1 m. [mile] NE. [North East] of the bridge of Brubster is a low mound recently supple: :mented with much stone gathered from the adjoining field. It has a diameter of 31' and elevation of about 2'. Probably it is a cairn but its character is not evident. [Continued on page 44]
gb0551ms-36-19-42 [Page] 42 [Continued from page 41] Reay. Standing Stones Broubster Village (39 & 40) On the moor to the Eastwards of the ruined croft of Aultan and about 3/4 m. [mile] ENE [East North East] of Broubster Village are two standing stones about ? 120 yds. [yards] (see O.S. [Ordnance Survey]) distant from each other. The Southmost stone measures 3'.10" in height, 2' in breadth and 8" in thickness. It faces ENE [East North East] and WSW. [West South West] and is pointed towards the upper end. The second stone stands to the Northwards (due N. magc. [North magnetic]) and faces N. [North] and S [South]. It measures 4'.6" in height, 2'.1" in breadth 1'.1" in thickness at base decreasing to 7" upwards. There are no stones visible as parts of a setting anywhere between these two monoliths. Standing stones. Aultan Broubster. (38) About 100 yds [yards] SW. [South West] of the ruined croft of Aultan and 1/2 ENE [East North East] of Broubster Village is a standing stone measuring 4' in height above ground, 2'.4" in breadth and 10" in thickness. It faces E [East] and W. [West] and is pointed towards the upper end. In its immediate vicinity are several other slabs apparently set on end protruding to a less degree above ground. They are, however, irregu: :larly placed and it is doubtful if they have formed part of a prehistoric setting of stones. The adjacent ground has been under cultivation. Halkirk Horned long cairn (9) On the W. [West] side of Loch Calder about 1/2 m [mile] W. [West] of the Big Island and 1/4 m. [mile] back from [Continued on page 43]
gb0551ms-36-19-43 [Page] 43 [Continued from page 42] the loch is a horned long cairn known as "Buaile Asserie". It lies WSW. [West South West] and ENE. [East North East] having its broader and higher extremity towards the latter direction. Except at the ENE [East North East] extremity it has been greatly pillaged for stones. The extreme length inclusive of the horns has been about 230'. At the ENE. [East North East] the horns are not very evident beneath the turf but they appear to have measured about 26' in length, and 60' between their outer terminations (The distance from the centre of the end of the cairn to their outer extremities is 37'.) The horns at the opposite end are more distinct. They appear to be also 26' in length but are only 46' distant at their outer extremities. (The distance from the centre of the cairn is also 37') At the WSW. [West South West] end the cairn measures 44' in breadth and some 4' in elevation. Two large slabs, set on end protrude from the turf 18' from the end indicating the former existence of a chamber at this end. Though ruined there is no sign of its having been cleared out. The breadth of the cairn near the centre is some 42'. At about 80' from the ENE [East North East] end it commences to expand and increases to a breadth of 64' and height of 12'. The cairn is overgrown with grass & heather [Continued on page 45]
gb0551ms-36-19-43 Canmore has the site name as Tulach Buaile Assery.
gb0551ms-36-19-44 [Page] 44 [Continued from page 43] and the principal end shows no sign of excavation. Chambered Cairn. Loch Calder (10) About 200 yds [yards] S [South] by E [East] of the horned long cairn on the W. [West] side of Loch Calder are the remains of a round chambered cairn. The cairn has had a diameter of about 53' and has an elevation of about 7'. The chamber is in a ruined state. Some 14' in from the E. [East] edge lies a large slab in situ as a lintel. It measures 6'.4" in length 2'.10" in breadth and 10" in thickness. At 4' in rear of it a single division stone is standing and 8' to 9' back from it some of the building at the back of the chamber is exposed. The interior is overgrown with turf and the width of the chamber is not apparent. (Reay) Chambered Cairn, Loch Calder (55) On the W. [West] side of Loch Calder about 3/4 m. [mile] from the south end of the Loch and about 1/4 m. [mile] NNW. [North North West] of Carriside is a chambered cairn. The diameter over all is 70'. The entrance has been from the ESE [East South East]. Some 18' from the outer edge in that direction two thin slabs protrude their heads from the turf with which the cairn is overgrown, 2'.9" apart and in front of them lies a stone which has evid: :ently formed a lintel In rear of these stones several other parallel slabs protrude indicating the divisions of the chamber and the back. The [Continued on page 45]
gb0551ms-36-19-45 [Page] 45 [Continued from page 44] slab occupying the latter position is 5' broad. None of the slabs protrude for a greater height than 1'.7". No part of the walls of the chamber are visible. The greatest elevation is 6'. A large amount of stone has evidently at some time been removed from the cairn on the SE [South East]. Halkirk. Hut Circle Loch Calder (Unnoted) About half way down the W. [West] side of Loch Calder, W. [West] of the Big Island and some 200 yds. [yards] from the shore is a hut circle. It is formed of two circular enclosures in alignment the one opening out of the other in line of the main entrance which is from the SE [South East]. The back circle measures interiorly 25' x 27'. The floor which has been dug out to some extent is some 4' below the top of the enclosing bank and 2'.6" or thereby above the floor level of the front enclosure. The thickness of the bank is indefinite but appears to have been about 8'. The front circle measures interiorly 23' x 25'. Details of the entrance and connecting passage are not evident. The whole construction is overgrown with heather. Hut Circle Loch Calder (unnoted) Somewhat less than 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the last is another hut circle also overgrown with heather. It measures interiorly 20' x 25' and is entered from the SE [South East]. [Continued on page 46]
gb0551ms-36-19-46 [Page] 46 [Continued from page 45] The thickness of the bank appears to be from 8' - 9'. No details of the entrance are obtainable. 23 Augt. [August] 1910 A very beautiful day. Hired a trap & took S. [Sandy] with me. Broch Murkle (6) About 1/2 m. [mile] SSE [South South East] of West Murkle Farm buildings is a grassy hillock on the top of which are the remains of a broch. The upper part of the hillock which contains the broch rises some 28' - 30' back from the edge of the scarp which is about 8' high. It has a diameter of about 60' and an elevation of about 8'. No part of the structure is visible. The hillock has to some extent been ploughed down and broken into on the E [East] side. My assistant took me to see two mounds at Whitefield, Murkle which he believed to be cairns. On the top of one a burial was said to have been found. One mound much resembled a long cairn and thin slabs lying horizontally exposed on the sides much suggested building I was satisfied, however, that the mounds were natural. East Murkle. Mound (7) Some 200 yds [yards] NW. [North West] of East Murkle Farm in the middle of a field is a low stony mound overgrown with grass. It has long been under cultivation and the [Continued on page 47]
gb0551ms-36-19-47 [Page] 47 [Continued from page 46] dimensions and character are quite indefinite. Of the cairn near the shore about 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] by E. [East] of East Murkle I could find no trace. If it was in a field it no longer exists, if above the cliff it is covered with rank grass and stones gathered from the fields. Broch Castlehill (17) At the edge of a field just above the shore road a short distance to the W. [West] of Castlehill quarries, Castletown is a grassy mound which appears to contain the ruins of a broch. It has been pillaged to some extent from the S. [South] side. The remaining portion has a diameter of about 54' and an elevation of 7'. Links of Greenland. (21) On the W. [West] side of the road from Castletown to Dunnet and about 1 1/4 m. [miles] S. [South] of Dunnet Church are two small cairns close to one another They measure some 32' in diameter and from 5' to 6' in elevation. Neither appears to have been excavated. Mounds Links of Greenland. (19) On the S. [South] side of a small burn which crosses the links about 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of Dunnet Church & about 1/6 m. [mile] E [East] of the road is a conical sandy mound. In diameter it measures 33' and in elevation about 5'. From the top two thin slabs protrude 5'.8" apart inclining towards each other at an angle of about 15° to 20° and some 6' & 9' res: [Continued on page 48]
gb0551ms-36-19-48 [Page] 48 [Continued from page 47] towards the W. [West] another pair in similar align: :ment are just visible about 5' from each other. The slabs are thin and the construction does not appear to be a chambered cairn. Hut circle. (19) Some 40 yds [yards] to the N. [North] of the last is a larger mound overgrown with bents with a hollow depression in the centre. Over all the mound measures in diameter 55' from N. [North] to S. [South] by 66' from E. [East] to W. [West] and in elevation about 4'. The depression which is probably the interior of a hut circle measures some 30' in diameter. From it two or three thin slabs protrude through the surface. There are a number of shells of limpets &c. turned up by the rabbits around the site Hut Circle (20) Some 200 yds. [yards] ESE. [East South East] of the last is another hut circle with an interior diameter of 31'. The entrance is from the SE. [South East] and is visible, faced on either side with flags, for a length of 6'.4". It has a breadth of 2'.6". In the interior several thin slabs protrude set edgewise against the bank. The present thickness of the bank is from 13' to 14'. Links of Dunnet At the S. [South] end of a ridge of sand about 3/4 m. [mile] SSE. [South South East] of Dunnet church is a large [Continued on page 49]
gb0551ms-36-19-49 [Page] 49 [Continued from page 48] circular depression around the edge of which stones are evident. It has an interior diameter of about 36'. Some 50 yds. [yards] to the E. [East] are three small conical stony mounds each with a diameter of from 16' to 18' and an elevation of some 3'. One of them appears to have been dug into but no cist is exposed. Mound (15) Some 2/3 m. [mile] S. [South] of Dunnet Church on the E [East] side of the road is a high sandy mound with an elevation of 16' or 17' around the top of which much stone is visible but no structure exposed. The diameter of the area over which the ruin is apparent is about 46'. The character of the remains is quite indefinite. This has been a lovely day. Nowhere I have visited do the primula scottica and Grass of Parnassus grow so abundantly as on these Links. Some of the flower stalks of the former were 4" or 5" high. Augt. [August] 24th. 1910. Having heard from Mr. Gunn, Wick, of the supposed existence of stone rows near Dirlot I hired the local car and had the satisfaction of finding them. They are unnoted Stone Rows Dirlot (unnoted) Some 300 yds. [yards] WSW. [West South West] of the graveyard [Continued on page 50]
gb0551ms-36-19-50 [Page] 50 [Continued from page 49] at Dirlot on a rounded heatherclad knoll is a setting of stone rows. The setting appears to consist of some [--] rows presenting the usual characteristics the stones being set with their flat faces looking across the rows. Most of the stones merely protrude from 6" to 8" and are about 1' in breadth except at the outer termination where they appear to have been larger the largest stone being 2' high and 2'.4" broad. They are somewhat irregularly placed some 3' to 5' distant from each other in the rows and the rows 6' to 7' apart. On the crest of the hillock are two low mounds or cairns from which the rows appear to radiate. The most Norther: :ly of the cairns has a diameter of about 14' and a slight elevation, while the other situated near the centre of the base of the rows, measures about 19' in diameter and 1 1/2' in elevation. Some 20' to the SE [South East] of this cairn in the line of the rows is another slight elevation measuring some 5' in diameter. The knoll has an elevation of some 12' and the rows run from the crest to the base in an approximate ESE [East South East] and WNW. [West North West] direction. At base the setting measures some 85' across and at its outer termination about 160'. The length of the rows has been about 106'. [Continued on page 51]
gb0551ms-36-19-51 [Page] 51 [Continued from page 50] Several stones have recently been upturned and the beds from which others have been removed are quite apparent. As it seemed within my capability to plan the monument I triangulated the position of each stone. My plotting has come out fairly well but another visit will be necessary to complete the plan. 25 Aug. [August] 1910. (Reay) Broch Tulloch of Lybster. (10) On the W. [West] side of the farm road leading from Lybster to Crosskirk and about half way between the two places are the ruins of a broch. The tower has been surrounded by a rampart some 23' out from its base faced with stone on its inner face, and a ditch beyond it. The land around is under cultivation but these defences are still visible on the S. [South] and SW [South West]. The broch itself has been cleared out and a wide gap made through the wall on the SE [South East] and NW [North West]. The interior diameter has been about 32'.6" and the thickness of the wall 14'.6". Small portions of the inner face of the wall are exposed at various points and also of the exterior face, but the structure is much ruined. Against the outer wall towards the E. [East] are slight remains of secondary buildings. [Continued on page 52]
gb0551ms-36-19-52 [Page] 52 [Continued from page 51] St. Mary's Church Lybster. (1). Situated on the W. [West] side of Crosskirk Bay a short distance back from the edge of the rocks is the ruined church of St. Mary's. It consists of a nave and chancel both roofless and the latter a reconstruction on the old foundations used as a burial place. The nave measures 17'.10" from E [East] to W. [West] by 10'.11" from N. [North] to S. [South] interiorly. The walls which are built of the whinstone of the district in irregular courses from 3" to 10" deep are about 4' in thickness. The N. [North] wall which is still about its original height is 8' in elevation above the ground level. The S. [South] wall is partly broken - but has still a height of from 6' to 7'. The W. [West] wall stands to a height of 11'.8" and the E [East] to about 15'. In the W. [West] end is an entrance now closed up 2'.3" wide at bottom, 1'.9" wide at the top and 3'.11" high. There is no trace of a window. The entrance to the chancel is 2'.9" wide at the bottom 2'.1" at the top and about the same height as the doorway. The chancel measures 11'.3" from E [East] to W. [West] by 10'.9" from N [North] to S [South]. The W. [West] wall of the nave on the exterior is in rather a ruinous state and the upper part considerably broken down. [Continued on page 53]
gb0551ms-36-19-53 [Page] 53 [Continued from page 52] Broch Cross-Kirk (9) At the edge of the rocks about 30 yds. [yards] to the N. [North] of the ruined church of St. Mary's Lybster are the remains of a large broch. The structure has been broken into to a small extent on the S. [South] from which direction the entrance appears to have been. The interior diameter is not accurately as: :certainable without excavation but has been approximately 30' - 32'. The thickness of the wall is 14' to 15'. The circular mound above the wall is some 6' above the ground level on the exterior and 5' on the interior. On the left of the position of the entrance the sides of a chamber are visible in the wall. On the exterior at the edge of the cliff for a distance of some 20' a portion of wall about 4' - 5' is exposed. On the landward side about 10' from the broch are the remains of an outer bank or wall now some 8' wide at base. Horned round Cairn Lower Dounreay (18) About 1 m. [mile] N.E. [North East] of Lower Dounreay and 1/4 m. [mile] back from the shore is a green hillock. which appears to be a horned, round cairn. It measures some (?) 6' in elevation; Across the centre between the horns the diameter is 58' and along the horns 70'. A large stone near the centre of the concavity on [Continued on page 54]
gb0551ms-36-19-54 [Page] 54 [Continued from page 53] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] the SE. [South East] probably marks the position of the entrance. On the E [East] side of the NE [North East] horn a portion of the facing wall of thin slabs is visible. The outlines of the horns are not sufficiently definite for measurement. The cairn does not seem to have been excavated. Dounreay. Castle. (3) At the W [West] end of the farm buildings at Lower Dounreay are the remains of Dounreay Castle. It is a structure on an L plan, now un: :roofed and rapidly falling into ruins though occupied at a comparatively recent date. It consisted of 2 storeys & a basement. The entrance door occupies the usual position on the re-entering angle on the ground floor. On the left of the doorway a square staircase under a vaulted roof leads to a landing on the first floor whence a newel stair in the thickness of the wall leads upwards. The floors have all fallen. On the first floor has been a hall and private room. There have been small cupboards and garde robes in the walls and the window recesses have been fitted with seats. The mouldings around the fire-places consist of a bead and hollow. The walls are 3'.6" in thickness and some 32' in height. [Continued on page 55]
gb0551ms-36-19-55 [Page] 55 [Continued from page 54] Broch Lower Dounreay. About 1/2 m. [mile] S. [South] of Dounreay Farm House is a grassy mound on the top of which are the ruins of a broch. It is situated partially in two fields the dyke passing across the centre. The diameter over all is some 87' and of the area containing the broch about 54'. The greatest elevation is about 10'. Ruins are visible on the E [East] side but no wall face appears. There are traces of a surrounding ditch. Broch. Upper Dounreay. (15) In a field about 100 yds. [yards] NE. [North East] of Loch Ach: :bulligan and about ? 2/3 WSW. [West South West] of Upper Dounreay is a grassy mound containing the ruins of a broch. The broch has been situated towards the SW. [South West] end of the elevation. The area covered by it measures approximately 60' and the depression marking the interior about 27' but no wall faces are exposed. The elevation at the SW [South West] where the slope is steep is 13'. From the opposite direction the rise is gradual. On the N. [North] the ruin has been pillaged to some extent. 26th Augt. [August] 1910. A hopelessly wet day. Wrote up notes. 27th Augt. [August] 1910. Still wet - finished notes & plotting plans. 29th Augt. [August] 1910 Pouring rain in the morning. As it faired about midday hired a trap to Sandside [Continued on page 56]
gb0551ms-36-19-56 [Page] 56 [Opposite page - 2 photographs inserted] Sculptured Stones Sandside. At Sandside there is a stone carved with symbols which was found built into a stone dyke near Shurrery. It is a quadran: :gular block of sandstone 2'.5" in length, 9" in breadth and 8" in thickness. On the face of the stone are incised a small stemmed circle or orb 4" in diameter containing an equal armed cross . The stem is 3 1/2" in length 1" in breadth where it joins the circle and 1 1/2" at base. Beneath this symbol occupy: :ing the breadth of the stone is plain circle with a diameter of 8". The sculptured stone illustrated and described in the Sculptured stones of Scotland is placed against a wall at the E [East] side of Sandside House and is set within a wooden frame. It measures 4'.10" in height, x 1'.11" in breadth &c. There is also preserved at Sandside a [Margin] Natural fragment of stone of curious design. It is an irregular slab measuring superficially 1 1/2' x 1' and 4" or 5" in thickness. In the centre is an equilateral triangular figure 5" in length two sides of which are slightly concave & the base convex. The I mouldings which occupy the rest of the surface curve [Continued on page 57]
gb0551ms-36-19-57 [Page] 57 [Continued from page 56] [Opposite page - photograph inserted] around this central figure but are neither parallel nor continuous. Mr. Pilkington is to find out for me where the stone came from. Cairn Sandside (13) On the left bank of the [--] Burn about 100 yds. [yards] above its mouth is a high sandy mound on the summit of which there appears to be a cairn. The whole is overgrown with bents but the diameter of the cairn appears to be about 55' and its elevation 11' or 12'. It does not appear to have been excavated. Market Cross Reay. (72) On the S. [South] of the road in the hamlet of Reay there stands a rude cross the upper arm of which is awanting. In height it measures 4'.3" above ground, & in width across the arms 1'.11". The shaft which is cylindrical measures 2'.9 1/2" in circumference. The arms are 9" in breadth at the intersection and diminish to 6" at their extremities. 30th Augt. [August] 1910. A most unpromising morning so hired a car and went to Nybster to examine the pottery from the Keiss brochs stored in John Nicolson's barn. S. [Sandy] came with me. For hours we stood bending over an improvised table passing shards of the coarsest pottery through our hands. As the pots lay in boxes crawling with maggots of some sort the task was [Continued on page 58]
gb0551ms-36-19-58 [Page] 58 [Continued from page 57] not a pleasant one. Nor was it particularly pro: :fitable as I only recovered one fragment ornamented in any manner whatever. It is a piece of dark brown ware about 2" square with the remains of five regular horizontal mouldings on the outside. There were pieces of two large cooking pots both from Barrock Hill of Works broch which possibly may be reconstructed & these we packed to send to the museum. For the most part the fragments were those of vessels of large dimensions and of the coarsest manufacture - all fashioned without the aid of the wheel. A few portions of rims of smaller vessels I also removed. John Nicolson asserts that the Samian ware found in the Keiss broch came from the higher levels among the remains of secondary buildings. Wick Par. [Parish] Nybster. Some 300 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the school at Nybster close beside the road on the W. [West] side is a low mound which was excavated by the late Sir Francis Barrie. It was found to contain a circular building with a diameter of about 6' having a semicircular recess with a radius of about 3' opening out of it at the back. There was an entrance from the NE. [North East] about 2' wide between two large stones laid on edge [Continued on page 59]
gb0551ms-36-19-59 [Page] 59 [Continued from page 58] The whole structure is said to have showed evidence of having been affected by fire. The wall was about 2'.6" in thickness and remaining to a height of about 3'. In the interior there was found a thin flat sandstone slab measuring about 17" in length, 7 1/2" in breadth and 2" in thickness perforated at one end with a hole drilled from both sides. There was also discovered a human jaw partially con: :sumed by fire and two other human bones. The structure was filled up after examination. From the signs of fire and the presence of human bones John Nicolson has called this place a cremation kiln. The evidence is hardly conclusive. 31st Augt. [August] 1910. Another dull morning. Roads quite un: :fit for bicycling so hired a trap to visit the Olrig district (Olrig) Broch Sibmister (3) Immediately to the N. of Sibmister Farm is a high grassy hillock on the top of which there are evidently the remains of a broch. The scarp of the hillock which is steep rises to a height of about 18' on the W. [West] and somewhat less on the other sides. Towards the top of it the face of a wall is exposed. Some 20' to 30' back from the top of the scarp the broch has been situated. The [Continued on page 60]
gb0551ms-36-19-60 [Page] 60 [Continued from page 59] [Opposite page - sketches and text inserted] Stone & bronze axes found in Cairn of Howe near Thurso and in the possession of Mr. John Anderson, 17 Millbank Road, Thurso. They were found by James Swanson about 25 years ago. April 1912. A bronze axe of similar type with a nick cut by a sharp instrument on one edge - adjacent to the hilt as in the above example is in the possession of Mr. Robert Dickinson, Longcroft, Lauder & was seen by me on 16th inst. [instance] outline of the ruin is very indefinite but the diameter appears to be about 56'. & the elevation is about 6'. The top of the hillock over all measures some 110' in diameter. Mound Clinag (9) On the top of the Hill of Clinag towards its E. [East] end is a small grass covered mound across the top of which runs a stone wall. It has a diameter of some 40' and an elevation of 4'. Possibly it is a cairn but there is no surface indication of its character Church of St. Trothan's (1) About 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of Olrig House are the ruins of the parish church of Olrig known as St. Trothans. The structure is roofless and the gables and walls entirely overgrown with ivy are levelled to a height of about 10' all around. The church has measured 49' x 26' over all. It presents no features of interest and appears to be a building of the late 17th or early 18th century. The exact date is possibly obtainable from the "Origines". I could not get access to the interior but through the keyhole of the door I could observe the usual remains of disinterred coffins which are to be found in nearly every church yard in Caithness. As usual human bones lay scattered about in abundance. Standing on the left side of the gate [Continued on page 61]
gb0551ms-36-19-61 [Page] 61 [Continued from page 60] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] giving access to the churchard is an old font. It is a cylindrical block of sandstone 1'.8" in height and 1'.5 1/2" in diameter. The basin is in shape an inverted cone 10" in depth and 5" in diameter at the top. A plain roll moulding encircles it at the base and rising from this to within 6" of the top of the font are five equidistant similar vertical mouldings Mound. Olrig Glebe. (10) About 180 yds. [yards] SW. [South West] of the Manse of Olrig in the cultivated land of the glebe is a stony mound which probably contains a broch. The mound is under cultivation and no sign of structure is visible. The diameter over all is some 96' and the elevation about 6'. Cairn Netherside (12) Some 200 yds [yards] S [South] by W. [West] of Hayfield farm beside the steading of Netherside is a grassy hillock. It measures some 70' in diameter and 5' in elevation. About 50 years ago a stone cist was accidentally discovered in it and was immediately covered up again without any observations being made. Cairn (14) At the edge of a grass park on the W. [West] side of the road some 300 yds. [yards] N. [North] of Birkle Hill quarry is a small cairn. It measures some 38' in diameter and some 5'.6" in elevation. It does not appear to have [Continued on page 62]
gb0551ms-36-19-62 [Page] 62 [Continued from page 61] been excavated. Mound Olrig Ho. [House] (11) In the park to the E [East] of Olrig House and close beside the pond is a large grassy mound. It has been at one time under cultivation and been much spread and now has a diameter of about 120' and an elevation of about 7'. It is probably a broch but no part of the structure is visible. The mound (no. [number] 15) indicated on the Hill of Olrig seems to me to be natural and the hillock "Sysa" (no. [number] 16) near Hilliclay undoubtedly is. After returning to Thurso I sought out Mr. John Anderson, an engineer at the flour mill as I heard he was a collector. The only antiquities he owned were the stone and bronze axes sketched opposite page 60 and a small mould for making luckenbooth brooches. The former articles are of extreme interest as having both come from the same cairn. They were found by a friend of Mr. Anderson from whom he received them. The bronze axe is notched on both edges near the butt a feature I have not seen before. 1st Sept. [September] 1910 Another wet morning. When it cleared I hired a trap and returned to Dirlot [Continued on page 63]
gb0551ms-36-19-63 [Page] 63 [Continued from page 62] to complete my survey of the stone rows which I had not been able to accomplish on my former visit. I also made a cross section along the central row and through the cairn. On the way back I stopped at Halkirk and visited a construction on the right bank of the Thurso River. It Mound Halkirk (48) is situated about 1/4 m. [mile] to the W. [West] of Halkirk and is a large oval construction of un: :ascertained character, much quarried and presenting the same puzzling arrangement of flags observed at Shurrery and elsewhere in this district. The dimensions are 100' from N. [North] to S. [South] by about 76' from E. [East] to W [West]. Towards the S. [South] end some six or seven slabs set on end protrude above the ground from 8" to 14." parallel and almost in line. They face WNW. [West North West] and ESE. [East South East] and are about 27' in from the end. The pair at the W. [West] side are 2'.6" apart. passing E. [East], the next slab is 13'.8" dis : : tant, parallel but somewhat S. [South] of the other two. At 2'.6" distant from it is the next. parallel and in line. Some 5'.4" E. [East] is another parallel and somewhat S. [South] and 22' further E [East] is a sixth also parallel. In line with the last and 20' to the N. [North] is another. Towards the [Continued on page 64]
gb0551ms-36-19-64 [Page] 64 [Continued from page 63] [Opposite page - 2 photographs inserted] N. [North] end of the construction a small portion of cairn-like appearance remains intact and beside it are one or two more slabs all facing in the same direction as the others.The slabs vary from 2'.6" to 3' in breadth as exposed except one which is 4'.3" in breadth. 2nd Sept. [September] Another wet and stormy morning. Drove to Barrogill Castle to lunch and to ex: :amine it. Mr. & Mrs. Sinclair were very charming and showed me over. The keep forms the E. [East] end of the present building. It is a rectangular structure measuring basement floor 26' x 29'.2", five storeys in height with a rect: :angular turret projecting from the centre of the W. [West] wall containing a newel staircase. Except towards the NW. [North West] there are bartisans at each angle supported on [--] corbels and like the main walls battlemented. The turret at the SW. [South West] angle is deeper than the others and carries the stair from the fourth floor to the roof. The parapet of the stair turret on the W. [West] wall is supported on corbels representing winged cherubs' heads. The windows have been enlarged and the upper storey and roof of the keep have apparently been considerably altered. [Continued on page 65]
gb0551ms-36-19-65 [Page] 65 [Continued from page 64] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] The basement and first floor are vaulted and the walls are 5'.6" thick. There are horizontal gun: :loops through the angles at the basement a few inches above ground level and also at the same level through the centres of the walls as well as on the first floor. In the S. [South] wall of the basement in the interior is a recess some 2' wide by 1'.6" deep now bricked up at the hatchway top which may have given access to the floor above. A considerable addition is said to have been made to the tower in the first half of the 17th century and it was probably at that period that a wing measuring at base some 26' x 28' was built partially against the W. [West] end of the N. [North] wall. This wing is vaulted in the basement and does not rise to the full height of the keep as it is now. The Castle is situated about 1/4 m. [mile] back from the N. [North] Coast and some [--] ms [miles] E. [East] from Thurso. Mound Barrogill (7) In a cultivated field about 1/4 m. [mile] WSW. [West South West] of Barrogill Castle is a low mound lying N [North] and S. [South] measuring some 50' x 27' in diameter and 2' - 3' in elevation. The level in the field adjacent indicate that it is a rem: :nant of a larger construction which has [Continued on page 66]
gb0551ms-36-19-66 [Page] 66 [Continued from page 65] been ploughed down. Its character is quite indeterminate without excavation. 3rd Sept. [September] Visit to Borrobol lodge to excavate hut circles. 6 Sept. [September] Returned to Thurso - made various business calls - arranging about survey of stone rows at Dounreay - visit to Stroma on Thursday 15th inst. &c. Wrote up notes & completed plan of survey of stone rows at Dirlot. 7th Sept. [September] Tulloch of Shalmstry (15) A beautiful day. Bicycled to Hoy. Situated on the E. [East] side of the road from Thurso to Georgemas and some 300 yds SE. [South East] of Shalmstry farm is a green mound containing the ruins of a broch. The outer face of the wall is exposed towards the SE [South East] and the diameter over all appears to have been some 72'. The elevation is about 7'. The entrance passage which has been from the E [East] has been opened out at its outer termination and is there 2'.10" in width. Brawl Castle. The ruins of Brawl Castle are situated in rear of the present mansion on the N. [North] bank of the Thurso River and about 1/2 m. [mile] N.E. [North East] of Halkirk. The tower is a rectangular building measuring externally some 35' x 37' and existing to the level of the top of the second storey. The battlements & distinctive features of the roof have, however, all disappeared. The walls are [Continued on page 67]
gb0551ms-36-19-67 [Page] 67 [Continued from page 66] [Opposite page - text inserted] At the SE. [South East] angle on the exterior there has been some projection, probably a buttress. from 8' to 10' in thickness. The entrance door is on the first floor level through the SW. [South West] angle and just within it the staircase rises to the right in the thickness of the wall. The basement measures 20'.9" x 18' and has not been vaulted. It has had no external door and has been lighted by two narrow vertical loop holes. On the first floor are deep broad window recess in the N. [North] and W. [West] walls. They are arched & furnished with stone seats, and measure 6' in width, 6'.3" in depth and 8'.2" in height. In the E [East] wall are a fire place & garderobe and there is a closet in the SW [South West] angle. The floors have all fallen. The corbels of the first floor exist along one half of the S. [South] wall are exceedingly broad forming a pavement 3' - 4' Across. The walls appear to have been built with clay and the castle appears to date from the 14th century. Broch Hoy (11) In the centre of the steading of Hoy Farm are the remains of a broch. The close proximity of the farm house has necessitated the demoli: :tion of the tower on one side and elsewhere the facing stones have been in large measure re: :moved. The diameter of the mound as it remains is some 45' and its elevation 13' - 14'. A section of the wall exposed shows it to [Continued on page 68]
gb0551ms-36-19-68 [Page] 68 [Continued from page 67] [Opposite page - 2 sketches and text inserted] - Flint spear head & ring of sandstone (3/4" in thickness) belonging to Mr. Henderson, Stemster. (actual sizes.) have been 15' in thickness. About 1' below the surface on the top of the mound at the S. [South] edge are protruding the remains of a human skeleton. The body has been laid extended, E and W [West]. Bower Par. [Parish] Mound (8) Torran Reitheach In a grass field about 3/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of the mill of Knock Dee is a low mound which is probably a cairn. It has a diameter of about 30' and an elevation of about 1 1/2'. The mound has been much ploughed down. Sordal Hill (17=18) Horned long Cairn. Near the SW. [South West] end of Sordal Hill on the top of the slope which rises above the road from Thurso to Georgemas is a horned long cairn. It occupies a conspicuous position visible on the sky line from afar off on the W. [West]. The cairn is overgrown with grass and heather and the horns are obscured with the exception of one at the E [East] side of the SSE. [South South East] ex: :tremity. The longest axis lies NNW [North North West] and SSE. [South South East] and the cairn rises and expands towards the latter direction. The extreme length is some 240'. the breadth at the NNW [North North West] 42' and the elevation about 5'. At the SSE. [South South East] the breadth is 82' and the eleva: :tion about 10' The main [Continued on page 69]
gb0551ms-36-19-69 [Page] 69 [Continued from page 68] part of the cairn measures some 44' in breadth and 7' to 8' at its greatest elevation. The expanded portion at the end is about 90' in length. The one horn which is apparent appears to be about 25' long. There has been a consider: :able amount of dilapidation in rear of the expanded end and towards the NNW [North North West] extremity which appears to have risen slightly in elevation. Chambered Cairn. (19) Some 25 yds. [yards] to the S. [South] of the last are the remains of a round chambered cairn. Its diameter at the present time is some 34' and its elevation about 3' but as the field in which it is situated has long been under cultivation its dimensions have probably been considerably reduced. The entrance to the chamber has been from the WSW [West South West]. At 21' inwards from the present edge a slab protrudes which has evidently formed the back of the chamber. It is exposed for a height of 2'.8" above ground and measures 4'.5" in breadth and 1'.2" in thickness. Some 3'.7" in front of it the heads of two slabs in line & 2'.6" apart are visible, dividing the chamber. Though the chamber is ruined there is no evidence of its having been excavated. Horned long Cairn. (16) On the W. [West] side of Sordal Hill some 400 yds. [yards] [Continued on page 70]
gb0551ms-36-19-70 [Page] 70 [Continued from page 69] N. [North] of the last long cairn is another. It lies N. [North] and S. [South] and expands and rises slightly towards the latter direction. It has an extreme length of 135'. At the N. [North] end it measures some 34' in breadth and 3' in elevation and at the S. [South] 53' in breadth and 7' in elevation. Near the centre of its length it is some 40' broad and 4'.6" high. At the S. [South] end both horns are apparent for a distance of some 20' from the cairn but have been reduced by ploughing. At the N. [North] end the horn on the E [East] side only is visible and it extends for a distance of 18' from the cairn. Some 43' along the cairn from the centre of the N. [North] end a slab 3'.6" broad set on end in the direction of the main axis of the cairn protrudes for a few inches and possibly marks the position of a chamber. The cairn is entirely overgrown with grass and though it has been considerably dilapidated there is no indication of its having been excavated. Chambered Cairn. Cnoc an Ciste (21) On the top of Sordal Hill and on the line of the boundary between the parishes of Bower and Thurso is a chambered cairn. In diameter it measures 63' from N. [North] to S [South] by 56' from E [East] to W [West] & in elevation about 8'. The chamber has [Continued on page 71]
gb0551ms-36-19-71 [Page] 71 [Continued from page 70] been partially excavated about 15 years ago without any record being published and is now in a ruined state. A large erect slab evidently forming the back of the chamber is visible 20' inwards from the edge. It entered by a passage from the SSE [South South East], is said to have been circular and to have yeilded no relics. Some 3 years previous to the excavation there was discovered beneath a large slab at the side of the passage a flat bottomed urn, or beaker, measuring some 5" in height, decorated in bands of chevron orna: :ment separated by horizontal lines. This vessel passed into the possession of Sir Frances Tress Barry. (Information supplied to me by Mr. Alick Murray, Land Steward, Stemster.) The base of the cairn is marked by a setting of large boulders from 2' to 4' in length placed on edge at irregular intervals. This characteristic though frequently coming under observation in Sutherland has not hitherto been noted in this county. (Bower) Cairn Knock-dee Mill (7) About 150 yds. [yards] SSW. [South South West] of Knockdee Mill is a small cairn. It measures in diameter some 33' and in elevation about 3'.6". Three large slabs protruding through the turf indicate its chambered character. A depression in the centre suggests that it has been par: :tially excavated. Called at Stemster and was shown the [Continued on page 72]
gb0551ms-36-19-72 [Page] 72 [Continued from page 71] flint javelin head and circular stone ring sketched opposite page 68. 8th Sept. [September] 1910. Another beautiful day. I attempted to hire a car but found them both engaged. Bicycled to Broubster. (Reay) Mound. "Torr na Craoibhe" Brabster (37) At the back of the shepherd's house at Bridge of Broubster is a large flat topped grassy mound of artificial character. It measures over all about 130' in diameter and 6' - 8' in elevation. Around the sides the foundations of old cot: :tages are visible but there is nothing to in: :dicate the nature of the original construction. (no. 36) On the W. [West] side of the road about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of the bridge of Broubster is a pear shaped en: :closure. All around are the tuins of old crofts and I could not be certain of the character of this construction. Its omission is immaterial. Mound "Torr an T' Sniomha" (35) In the Leans of Achreregan, on the E. [East] side of the road to Shurrery and about 3/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of Brubster Bridge is a grassy cairn like mound known as "Torr an T' Sniomha." It has a diameter of about 50' and an elevation of about 6'. It has been much dug into from the S. [South]. There are no slabs visible to indicate its character and (possibly) it has [Continued on page 73]
gb0551ms-36-19-73 [Page] 73 [Continued from page 72] been a kiln. Mound (35) At East Shebster on the E. [East] side of the moss is a grass covered mound of irregular contour which presents the appearance of a large cairn much pillaged for stones. It is oval on plan measuring some 86' by 78'. The highest portion near the centre is 4'.6" in height. There are no indications of its character. Mound (30) On the N. [North] side of West Shebster Hill about 1/4 m. [mile] W. [West] of the road from Shebster to Shurrery is a grassy hillock which is stony and possibly a cairn. It has a diameter of about 60' and an elevation of 4'.6". The outline to some extent seems to be marked by stones set on end protruding a few inches from the turf. Mound (29) About 1/4 m. [mile] to the W. [West] of the last is a cairn-like mound with a diameter of about 41' and elevation of about 3'. The surface is very uneven and appears to have been overlaid with stones gathered from the surrounding land which has at one time been under cultivation. The true character of the mound is indeterminate. ? Cairn (31) About 1/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of the last is a heap of small stones raised from the centre of the [Continued on page 74]
gb0551ms-36-19-74 [Page] 74 [Continued from page 73] foundation of a larger construction which has possibly been a cairn. The original diameter has been about 54'. (The larger stones have probably been removed for building purposes.) Grey Cairn (32) Some 300 yds. [yards] to the E [East] are the scanty remains of a cairn which has been almost entirely de: :molished. Broch Achinabust (17a) About 100 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of Achinabust farm house is a grassy hillock containing the ruins of a broch. The outline of the tower is visible at one or two points and indicates a diameter over all of about 53'. On the W. [West] a chamber has been exposed by the falling in of the roof. The greatest height of the mound above the broch is 6'. Towards the W. [West] there appear to have been numerous outer buildings. [Opposite page - photograph inserted] Standing Stone Clach Clais an Tuirc (44) Situated on slightly elevated ground to the E [East] of Isauld Burn just where it issues from the pass between [--] and Creag Leathan is a standing stone known as "Clach Clais an Tuirc." It is a quadrangular block measuring 6'.2" in height above ground, 3'.6" in greatest breadth and 2'.11" at base, and 2' in thickness. It faces E. [East] and W [West]. ? Broch Creag Leathan. On the haunch of Creag Leathan facing the N. [North] and some 3/4 m. [mile] S [South] by W. [West] of Achvarisdale [Continued on page 75]
gb0551ms-36-19-75 [Page] 75 [Continued from page 74] Lodge are the remains of a construction most probably a broch. The stones have been in great measure removed from it and all details obliterated. The original dia: :meter has been about 66'. 9th Sept. [September] 1910. Another fine morning. Took the train to Hoy & Bicycled to Stemster where Mr. Henderson handed me to the guidance of Alick Murray his ground officer and an enthusiastic an: :tiquary. He has a nice collection of flint arrow heads gathered in the locality and a large number of whorls many of which have a number of small round holes made on one face. Bower. Foundations In the SW. [South West] corner of the park immediately to the W. [West] of Stemster policies are the indefinite foundations of a number of circular buildings. Without excavation it is impossible to say to what age they belong. Dovecot. To the N. [North] of Stemster House stands an old dovecot in a somewhat delapidated con: :dition. In plan it is a square of 17'.3" It has a span roof and the gables are crow stepped. In height it measures some 26' to the roof ridge. The walls inside are lined with the usual stone nests and are [Continued on page 76]
gb0551ms-36-19-76 [Page] 76 [Continued from page 75] about 3' in thickness. Foundations Stemster. Immediately in front of the Dovecot at Stemster there have recently been discovered the foundations of a building. The plan is rectangular meas: :uring some 72' in length by 28' in breadth over all. The main axis is WNW [West North West] and ESE [East South East]. There has been an entrance through the WNW. [West North West] wall at its W. [West] end and other two entrances within four feet of each other through the ENE [East North East] wall. There is said to be a chamber 20' x 14' against the WNW [West North West] wall. The suggestion that this [Margin] Omit. is the foundation of a chapel is not borne out by any detail of the plan nor by the orientation of the building. Without com: :plete excavation of the interior it is not possible to come to a conclusion as to its real character. The outside of the wall shows the remains of lime pointing or harling! Shian Cairn. Stemster (4) At Stemster about 1 1/4 m. [miles] to the NNW [North North West] of Stemster House is the "Shian" or "Sithean" a chambered cairn excavated in 1904 by Sir Frances Tress Barry. The following details are derived from MS. [Manuscripts] reports which along with plans are in the possession of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. The diameter of the cairn was 40' and its eleva: :tion 12'. In the centre was found a square chamber [Continued on page 77]
gb0551ms-36-19-77 [Page] 77 [Continued from page 76] chamber built of rubble work with two upright flag stones set in each corner of it. The floor consisted of five flagstones stretching right across from side to side. The width of the chamber was 4'.8". Its height from the floor to the top of the walls 8' and to the top of the debris 13'. Flagstones were found on the top laid in a slanting position to form a roof. On the floor in the S.W. [South West] corner were found the unburned remains of a human skeleton the area on which it lay being marked off on the floor by an arc of grey boulders. The fragment of skull indicated that it belonged to an "ovoid" skull with a cephalic index low in the mesocephalic group if not actually falling into the dolichoceph: :alic category. The entrance to the chamber was from the S. [South] through a doorway 4'.6" high and 1'.10" wide which was walled up with walling 2'.9" thick. The passage was opened for a distance of 4' outwards. It was found to be well built & roofed & paved with flag stones. The floor was 8" lower in level than the floor of the chamber. The whole length of the passage was estimated at 15'. Beneath the flooring of the chamber [Continued on page 78]
gb0551ms-36-19-78 [Page] 78 [Continued from page 77] was found a layer of broken stones about 4" deep resting on a bed of clay. In the debris near the top of the cairn were found the remains of another unburnt interment and pieces of a "clay jar or urn". Cairn Site Stemster (2) Some 50 yds [yards] W. [West] of one of the crofts at Stemster and about 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of the farm of Hilliclay is a mound on a natural ridge which appears to be the remains of a cairn. One large slab some 5' in length and 6" to 8" in thickness protrudes from the back of a hollow caused by the removal of the stones. Skeletal remains are said to have been found here. Sinclairs Sithean (3) Stemster On the moor about 1 1/2 m. [miles] NW. [North West] of Stemster House is a long cairn. It has been consider: :ably pillaged for stones at both ends and the horns if such existed are not now visible. The cairn lies NNW [North North West] and SSE. [South South East] expanding towards the latter direction. Its extreme length is 173'. At the NNW. [North North West] end it measures some 33' in breadth and 3'.6" in height, while at the SSE [South South East] end its breadth is 63' and its height 7' to 8'. Some 30 years ago a short cist containing an unburned interment was discovered just below the surface at the ESE. [East South East] end. (by Mr. Alick Murray, ground officer, Stemster.) [Continued on page 79]
gb0551ms-36-19-79 [Page] 79 [Continued from page 78] Cnoc an Taillir (20) I could find no trace of this "Picts House" near the position marked on the map nor did my guide know of any other cairn in the locality Cairn Stemster (Unnoted) About 1/3 m. [mile] SSW. [South South West] of Sinclair's Sithean on the moor is a low cairn. It has a diameter of 32' and an elevation of about 3'. Ha' of Duran Broch (4) Some 300 yds [yards] WNW. [West North West] of Ha' of Duran at the edge of a burn is a grassy mound which evidently marks the site of a broch. No part of the tower is visible and the ruin is probably covered with the foundations of secondary buildings The elevation of the mound is inconsiderable. Lunched at Stemster where I met J. [Jocelyn] who bicycled home with me by Ha' of Duran &c. 10 Sept. [September] Another wet morning - wrote up notes &c. 12 Sept. [September] Drove to Achreamie to assist in survey of Stone Rows on Upper Dounreay farm. With the assistance of a workman we un: :covered the tops of a number of stones sunk beneath the turf. The square setting of stones at the N. [North] end is evidently part of the original monument as the four stones of which it is formed are firmly wedged into the ground. We dug out the [Continued on page 80]
gb0551ms-36-19-80 [Page] 80 [Continued from page 79] interior of the square and found no sign of any interment. The stones were some 1'.8" in height. On my return about 7. o'clock I found that Lord Pentland had wired requesting me to meet him in the afternoon on his way to Wick. I was sorry to miss him. 13th Sept [September] 1910. Drove to Shurrery with Prof. [Professor] Bryce to re-examine certain cairns there which perplexed me on my previous visit. We concluded that the construction (no. 45. p. [page] 6) was a cairn of chambered character but of a type hitherto unmet with and suggesting the complex plans of the Orkney cairns. The cairn (no. 47. p. [page] 8) about 1/4 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of the church has evidently been of the same type. The positions of the slabs indicate that there has been a chamber of complex character entered from the SE. [South East] the back slab of which is some 49' in from the edge of the cairn in that direction and 45' from the edge at the opposite side. Some 7'.6" to the NE [North East], & nearly in alignment, is another slab 7' in length, which appears likewise to have formed the back of a chamber one wall of which is just apparent 5'.9" in length built at right [Continued on page 81]
gb0551ms-36-19-81 [Page] 81 [Continued from page 80] angles to it. A number of the slabs have been removed and the whole cairn so much des: :troyed that its plan is no longer apparent. We spent a considerable time at this cairn trying to discover the division stones beneath the debris and to arrive at some conception of the original form of the chambers. We visited the Long Cairn near Loch a' Mhuilinn and on our way towards Brawlbin we found a small cairn unnoted. Chambered Cairn (unnoted) On the moorland to the SW. [South West] of Shinnery and about 1/2 m. [mile] NE. [North East] of the cairn on the summit of Beinn Freceadain is a small round cham: :bered cairn. It has been delapidated to a considerable extent and several large upright slabs stand exposed about the centre. The dia: :meter is some 35' and the elevation is now inconsiderable. Prof. [Professor] Bryce agreed that the construction (no. 63) was certainly not sepulchral.) Returning towards Shurrery we found another unnoted cairn Chambered Cairn Brawlbin (Unnoted) On the moor about 1/4 m. [mile] to the E [East] of the horned long cairn near Loch a 'Mhuilinn and and to the W. [West] of the crofts at Brawlbin are the remains of a small cairn. It is [Continued on page 82]
gb0551ms-36-19-82 [Page] 82 [Continued from page 81] so delapidated and has been so pillaged for stones that its dimensions are no longer obtainable. A single large upright slab protruding through the turf indicates its chambered character. The weather has improved of late and we seem destined to enjoy a fine September. 14th Sept. [September] 1910 Hired the car to do a big day's work towards the East. Left at 9.30 and made our first stop at St. John's Loch. Dunnet Par. [Parish] St. John's Chapel St. John's Loch S. [Site] (26) The site of St. John Chapel is recognisable on a grassy knoll of slight elevation at the E [East] end of St. John' s Loch. The dimensions of the building are not recoverable without excavation. A respectable old man who owned the croft on which the site is, told us most naïvely that a few years ago he had removed a good many of the stones of the chapel to build a wall. Greenvale Site. On the farm of Greenvale to the SE. [South East] of the farm house about 120 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the cross-roads & on the S. [South] side of the road to Huna is the site of some construction recognised by the upright slabs coming in contact with the plough. It has not been excavated and the character of the ruin is unknown. A bone weaving [Continued on page 83]
gb0551ms-36-19-83 [Page] 83 [Continued from page 82] comb is said to have been recovered from it by John Nicolson. The farmer described the remains to me as "a grave formed of large slabs 6' long "by 3' across." There are no significant remains of the Broch indicated on the O. S. [Ordnance Survey] map at the mouth of the Burn of Rattar. Scarfskerry (7) On a short promontory rock about 1/2 m. [mile] to the W. [West] of Scarfskerry Post Office are the fragmentary remains of a structure, probably a broch. The building has occupied the whole of the outer end of the promontory now some 30' in breadth but the crumbling of the rock has considerably curtailed its dimensions. The whole is overgrown with grass and no part of the structure is visible. Across the landward end of the promontory a trench has been dug. Canisbay St. John's Chapel. S. [Site] (15) At the landward end of St. John's point towards the E [East] side and partially traversed by a modern wall is a foundation some 32' in length but of indefinite breadth said to be that of the chapel. In the interior two slabs protrude which may have formed the ends of a long cist. The building is not correctly oriented [Continued on page 84]
gb0551ms-36-19-84 [Page] 84 [Continued from page 83] [Opposite page - text inserted] Cannisbay Set into the S. [South] wall of the S. [South] transept of the church on the outside is the famous "Grote" stone for description of which see Pro. [Proceedings] Soc. [Society] of Antiq. [Antiquities] Vol [Volume] XLIV [44]. paper by Mr. Eeles. Fort. St. John's Point. Across the landward end of the promontory of St. John's Point from cliff to cliff has been dug a deep trench some 50' in breadth with a rampart some 10' in height along the sea: :ward side and a low mound crowning the counterscarp to landward. The rampart has probably borne a wall along its crest on the line of the present modern dyke as a small portion of an ancient wall is visible beneath it near the W. [West] end of the defence. Some 50' from the Western extremity of the rampart there appears to have been an entrance. The area cut off by this fosse is several acres in extent. Within it and in the vicinity of the supposed site of the chapel is some elevated ground which is possible forced soil. Broch Gills (Unnoted.) About 1/2 m. [mile] S. [South] of the road from Mey to Canisbay church and 100 yds. [yards] E [East] of the road through the township of Gills is a low mound under cultivation which is evi: :dently the site of a broch. It has been much quarried for stones. A rotary quern was found in it. We were taken to the spot, which was dif: :ficult to find, by a cheery old octogenarian [Continued on page 85]
gb0551ms-36-19-85 Page] 85 [Continued from page 84] whom we commandeered at his trade of shoe: :making, A merry old soul with ruddy colouring and a keen appreciation of a joke. Canisbay Church. I do not think the present church falls within the period of our inventory. In plan it is cruciform, with a tower at the West end finished with an ordinary spanroof. In appear: :ance it much resembles the church at Dunnet. A number of interesting old tombstones are exposed in the surrounding graveyard. Some 50'. S. [South] of the E [East] end of the church is a flat slab bearing a plain Latin cross on a graduated base. The cross measures in extreme length 3'.9 1/2" and in breadth 1'.8". Above the cross is a shield charged with three crowns of four points (1 and 2) between the initials F. G. Around the edge of the stone runs the following inscription, in relief. "HEIR LIES. FINDLAY GROT IN DUNCA(N)SBY QUHA DEPART IT 18 DAY OF MAII 1601. SPES ALTERA VITE. There is also cut on the stone in incised lettering the initials D G and E G with the date 1789. Against the S [South] wall of the graveyard there has been erected a slab inscribed to the [Continued on page 86]
gb0551ms-36-19-86 Page] 86 [Continued from page 85] memory of the Rev. [Reverend] Mr. Andrew Ogstoun Minister at Canisbay who died 31 March 1620 at the age of 83. The inscription has been recent. A slab lying S. [South] of the E. [East] end of the church measuring 9'.4" in length by 2'.1" in breadth bears at the upper end a shield parted per pale. Sinister half a stag's head cabossed Dexter in chief a three masted ship [Margin] see rubbing. [--] Beneath are the letters A S. M M I-C? The lower half of the stone contains, carved in high relief within a frame, the usual emblems of mortality - a skull and cross - -bones, spade & shovel, two coffins, two hand bells and an hour glass. The inscription around the edge of the stone is effaced. Beneath an arch in the S. [South] wall of the graveyard is erected a slab bearing the follow: :ing inscription in incised letters : " Heir rests the dust of Mr. James Innes sometyme or 37 years minister of Canasbay who left his bodi the 24 day of December in the year of Grace 1704 and of his age 67." followed by a verse from Holy Writ. At the base of the stone within a panel are the letters I M I [M above I I] 1705 [below a heart symbol which is in line with the I I and I M initials] I M Beneath this are two shields. The dexter [Continued on page 87]
gb0551ms-36-19-87 [Page] 87 [Continued from page 86] charged with three stars of five points (2 and 1) the sinister with an eagles head erased Lying by the W. [West] wall of the graveyard some 40' to the SE. [South East] of the W. [West] end of the church is a slab measuring 5'.3" in length by 2'.2" in breadth. It is incised with the following inscription "Heir is ye monument of Isob. Mouat dochter to the Laird of Bogholle Lacy Stanstel quha departit ye 19 day of Maii 1601." - and bears a shield parted per pale. Dexter half charged with 3 stars of five points (1 & 2) - sinister half uncharged, between the letters I.M. Hollomey 13. 3. Unnoted Motored W. [West] again to Rigifa and so by the farm of Phillips' Mains to Hollomey. At the edge of a cultivated field presently under crop and about 300 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the farm of Hollomey is a low mound of indefinite measurements believed to contain the remains of a broch. [Margin] see J. N's [John Nicolson's] drawings. Some slight excavation was done on it by Mr. John Nicolson and a small bone ring was recovered. Brabstermire Broch (11) About 150 yds [yards] SSE. [South South East] of the crofts at Brabstermire occupied by Mr. A. Sinclair & some 3/4 m. [mile] SSW. [South South West] of the farm of Thomsonsfield is a mound under cultivation containing the remains of a broch. Its dimensions are [Continued on page 88]
gb0551ms-36-19-88 [Page] 88 [Continued from page 87] unobtainable. The mound was very partially excavated by Mr. John Nicolson and from it were recovered a rotary quern, three water worn stones some 6" in length each with a groove cut around at one end seeming: :ly for attachment of a cord, probably loom weights, and a diminutive cup, or hollowed pebble, some 2 3/4" in length by 2" in breadth and 3/4" in thickness. The cup is some 5/8" in depth. & 3/4" in thickness. With the exception of one of the loom weights which is in the National Museum of Antiquities, these objects are in the possession of Mr. Sinclair. Chapel. S. [Site] Brabstermire. (19) The site of this chapel lies on the W. [West] side of the high road to the NW. [North West] of Brabstermire House. It was excavated and showed a small building evidently of the chanceled type but the ruins are now entirely covered up. As the afternoon was now far advanced we had to turn homewards at this point. 15th Sept. [September] 1910. For some days I have been suffer: :ing much from a boil and today had to call in a doctor to lance it. It is singular that at this date last year I should have been similarly plagued. [Continued on page 89
gb0551ms-36-19-89 [Page] 89 I have been ordered a day on my back but I am probably to get to work again tomorrow. Friday. 16th Sept. [September] 1910. This morning we were joined by John Nicolson who was to show us a suppositious runic stone in the sandhills at Isauld. Borrowstoun Mains Broch 11. At the edge of the cliffs which descend in broken terraces of rock to the waters edge about 1/4 m. [mile] [--] of the farm of Borrowstoun Mains are the ruins of a broch. The walls seems to have gradually settled down and disintegrated so that the ruin is now in appearance a penannular ring of slatey fragments some 12' high broadening downwards but with the interior com: :paratively free from debris. The ring is incomplete by reason that on the N.E [North East] a narrow goe has eaten its way so far into the rock as to have entirely undermined the broch wall in that direction and brought about its fall. Nor is the destruction of the wall the only evidence of erosion for 35' out from the inner end of the goe is exposed on the upper surface the ragged section of a bank of earth and stone which originally formed a defence to the seaward [Continued on page 90]
gb0551ms-36-19-90 [Page] 90 [Continued from page 89] of the broch some 22' distant from its base. The entrance has been apparently through the portion of the wall which has fallen, on the NE [North East]. The thickness of the wall is some 14' to 15' and the diameter of the interior about 43'. At several places the outer and inner faces of the wall are visible beneath the debris. The tower appears to have been surrounded at 2'.7" from its base by a wall, visible at the edge of the goe, 4'.9" in thickness. Some 22' from the tower are the remains of the encircling bank a section of which is visible on the side of the goe, and which appears to have been surmounted by a wall a small portion of which displaced is visible on the E [East]. In front of this rampart is a ditch some 18' in width and now at most about 4' in depth with a low mound along the top of the counterscarp. Cairn Borrowstoun Mains (Unnoted) Some 100 yds [yards] to the W. [West] of the broch at Borrow: :stoun Mains also at the edge of the cliff is a cairn with a diameter of some 80' and an elevation of 10' - 11'. It is grass covered except towards the W. [West] where the elements have prevented the growth of vegetation. On the summit at the W [West] side 1' below the surface [Continued on page 91]
gb0551ms-36-19-91 [Page] 91 [Continued from page 90] a short cist is exposed lying with its longer axis ESE [East South East] and WNW [West North West]. It is covered by a slab meas: :ing [measuring] 2'.7" in length, 1'.8" in breadth and 1" in thick: :ness The cist itself is 2'.1" long x 1' broad & 1'.3" deep and is paved with four small flags. When cleared out there were found near the centre of the floor about a dozen whelk shells but no remains of any interment. Site of chapel. Isauld (73) Among the sand dunes to the NE [North East] of the Isauld Burn some 300 or 400 yds [yards] back from its mouth are the foundations of a structure of some sort, very scanty and unmeasurable and here was supposed to lie the runic stone. It was two years since John Nicolson had found it and though the various objects he had noted as guides to its position were all in place the stone itself was gone. Great was his disappointment but not so great ours as the marks disclosed in his photograph were much more like ice scrathes [scratches] than runes cut by the hand of man. Crossing the links we made our way to the churchyard of Reay. In the NE. [North East] corner are the reconstructed remains of part of the old church measuring interiorly 16'.2" x 11'.8". Set into the W [West] wall towards its [Continued on page 92]
gb0551ms-36-19-92 [Page] 92 [Continued from page 91] N. [North] end is the celtic cross (See Sculptured stones &c.) and towards the S [South] end is a tablet bearing two conjoined shields the dexter charged with a chevron [--] between three boars heads erased, the sinister 1st & 4th a three master ship, 2nd and 3rd a lion rampant over all a cross engrailed. Beneath the remains of an inscription to the effect that the aisle or a part of it belongs to Angus Mackay of Bighouse. On the end wall to the right of the entrance is another panel [Margin] see rubbings for this & stones in the churchyard.
gb0551ms-36-19-93 [Page] 93 [Blank page]
gb0551ms-36-19-94 [Page] 94 Standing Stones Reay (41) After mature consideration Prof. [Professor] Bryce and I both came to the conclusion that these stones were merely boulders brought to the present positions by natural causes probably by ice. That to the west of the drill hall seems to owe its resemblance to a standing stone to the fact that it has been split by blasting and a large part removed. [Margin] (42) On the top of the hillock which rises to the S. [South] of the drill hall are the remains of a circular construction with a diameter of about 50'. Its character is not obvious and it may possible be the remains of a demolished cairn. Achvarasdale Lodge. Monoliths (unnoted) Some 60 yds. [yards] to the NE. [North East] of the kitchen garden at Achvarasdale lodge lies a large fallen monolith measuring 11'.10" in length, and square in section with a diameter of 2'.6". Some 60' to the S. [South] of it lies another similar stone 11'.6" in length, also quadrangular in section, with a diameter of 2'.5" at base and less at the opposite end. Both stones lie pointing in the same direction viz . E. [East] & W. [West] Broch Achvarasdale Lodge (17) Situated in a small park immediately to the N. [North] of Achvarasdale Lodge is a broch which has been excavated. The entrance [Continued on page 95]
gb0551ms-36-19-95 [Page] 95 [Continued from page 94] is from ESE. [East South East] through the wall 13' in thickness. At 4' inwards are checks for a door formed by a rebate of the passage wall and on the left behind this a rebuilt portion of wall appears to indicate the entrance to a guard chamber. The width of the entrance passage is 2'.9" at the outer end, 2'.6" at the inner end and 3'.7" behind the door checks. The height of the passage walls is 5'.4" and the covering slabs are all awanting. The interior diameter of the broch is 33'. From the inner end of the entrance passage on the right meas: ured direct at 19'.6" distant is an entrance 2' wide giving access to a chamber, in part reconstructed, from which has apparently risen the stair. The average height of the broch wall, which has been in places built up, is 5'.3" in the interior but on the exterior it has not been ex: :posed. There are indications of con: :siderable outbuildings which have not been excavated. A rotary quern and a mortar of large size the bottom of which has been broken out lie in the interior and there are preserved at [Continued on page 96]
gb0551ms-36-19-96 [Page] 96 [Continued from page 95] Achvarasdale Lodge two narrow oblong sharpen: :ing stones rectangular in section of a fine grained ? slatey stone. I called at Achvarasdale Lodge & had tea. It is one of the most charming spots in Caithness with a garden ablaze with autumn flowers thrown up against the dark moors & hills to which the house faces. The scenery of this part of Caithness is not characteristic of this county but of Sutherland. 17th Sept. [September] 1910. A lovely calm morning. At 8.45 Mr. Mackay arrived with his car and picking up Prof. [Professor] Bryce S. [Sandy] and myself took us off to John 'O' Groats for our visit to the island of Stroma. A puncture delayed us somewhat on the way but even then we were too soon for our crew. Between Stroma and the mainland the tide rushes & boils making the crossing of the two miles of Firth at times a perilous adventure. Today however every con: :dition was favourable, and with four tough mariners, one of them with his shaggy white locks, blue eyes and ruddy colour, a veritable viking, the [Continued on page 97]
gb0551ms-36-19-97 [Page] 97 [Continued from page 96] voyage was of the pleasantest. As the sea was calm we were landed in a little creek on the S. [South] coast whence we had an easy scramble to the top of the cliffs. The island forms an irregular acute angled triangle some 2 miles in length by 1 in breadth. A line from North to South divides it into two unequal parts two thirds to the E. [East] being cultivated while the third to the West: :ern cliffs is arid moorland on which short stunted heather struggles to live. There are no fences and the sheep and cattle are all tethered. The crops seemed good, and the houses of the crofters are com: :fortable and clean. The population numbers some 200 but is diminishing, as the younger people are emigrating to the colonies and no new blood comes to Stroma. From too much intermarriage there is a good deal of consumption among the inhabitants. Racially they appear to be of pure Scandinavian stock. As sailors they cannot be excelled and more than once I have been told that the loss of a Stroma man at sea is almost unknown. They have [Continued on page 98]
gb0551ms-36-19-98 [Page] 98 [Continued from page 97] a reputation as boat builders and many of the fishing boats used on the mainland opposite are constructed in Stroma. The people live to a great age evidently as out of the half dozen I spoke to three were over eighty. On the uncultivated land I found growing a dwarf Ragged Robin, which I believe is a rare Alpine. I dug up a plant & sent it to E. [Elize] for her rockery at Melrose [Opposite page - text and sketch inserted] The vault is not continued to the floor but rises from a ledge 6" wide 2' above the ground level. Towards the E [East] end of the Southern shore on a promotory rock is the graveyard. From the centre of it rises a rectangular structure now roofless built with grey flags and pink sandstone quoins. It has been finished with an ordinary span roof now gone. The building measures 25' x 18'.5" and is two storeys in height. On the ground level entered by a door in the West wall which is 2'.6" thick is a low vaulted chamber evidently a burial vault. There is a continuous bead & hollow moulding around the door. Above the vault is a pigeon house on the first floor entered by a door at that level in the E [East] wall. It is furnished with the usual stone nests. A stone at the S. [South] side of the West [Continued on page 99]
gb0551ms-36-19-99 [Page] 99 [Continued from page 98] front bears the date 1677 cut in relief. The height of the building is some 22'. I believe it was in this burial vault where Kennedy of Kalmuch the Younger sounded the drum on his sire's stomach the legend relating that the body was wondrously preserved by the brine in the air! (see ? Calder) A slight elevation towards the S. [South] end of the island bears the name of Cairn Hill but no cairn now remains on it. Half a mile down the East coast from the North end of the island is a little harbour at the Goe of Nethertown. Beside the house occupied by Mr. Smith immediately to the South of this are remains which are probably prehistoric. Some 20' to the S. [South] of the house there are protruding a few inches through the turf two slabs set on edge, parallel and 3' apart while 2' to the West of the most Northerly is another in alignment with it. We were told that along the coast towards the North were many such cist like settings of slabs known as "Picts' beds" but we saw no others. except such as are here recorded. On the N. [North] side of the house at the edge of the [Continued on page 100]
gb0551ms-36-19-99 Pennant - A Tour in Scotland 1769, Volume 1 p353 - that one Murdo Kennedy , son of Carumuch , is said to beat the drum on his father's belly. Geographical collections relating to Scotland made by Walter Macfarlane - p.152 "A Tomb or burying place built by the forsaid Kennedy of Kairnmuck, which perfectly preserves bodyes from putrefaction, so the bodyes laid there in coffins, without bowelling or embalming forty years ago and upwards to this day have all the members intire, and so firmly dryed up that they will stand upright on their feet."
gb0551ms-36-19-100 [Page] 100 [Continued from page 99] bank are exposed the ruins of some structure in which upright slabs are visible set parallel 2'.10" apart and bones, & shells intermingle with the debris. chambered Cairn Stroma (9) About 100 yds. [yards] SW. [South West] of the light house at the N. [North] end of the island is a cairn which has been partially excavated and which appears to have contained a chamber now ruined. In diameter it measures some 52' and in elevation 5'. Near the centre is exposed a slab 8'.6" in length lying on its edge in direction N [North] & S. [South] while 3' to the E [East] and 1'.6" to the W. [West] respectively lie shorter slabs set parallel. Passing Southward along the W. [West] coast we visited the devil's punch bowl a great circular pit into the bottom of which the tide rushes. It is some distance back from the cliffs and has I suppose been formed by the falling in of a cave. ? Cairn Unnoted At the landward end of the promontory of Mell Head and on the N. [North] side a deep cleft known as the Giddy Goe runs Southward for a distance of about 120 yds. [yards] Immediately to the E [East] of this at the seaward end is a low stoney mound which is probably a cairn. It measures 25' in diameter and 2' in elevation. [Continued on page 101]
gb0551ms-36-19-101 [Page] 101 Castle Mestag. At the N.W. [North West] end of the headland some 12' - 15' from the edge of the cliffs which fringe the shore stands a stack or detached perpendicular mass of rock. Occupying nearly the whole summit has been a small keep now reduced to a few courses of masonry. Except by means of a bridge the position is inaccessible. To the north of the headland is a pictur: :esque clett running parallel with the face of the cliffs to which it is connected by a bridge formed of a single flag to give the islanders access to the outer rocks where is their best fishing ground. We crossed the bridge with the tide surging some 50' below us and clambered about on the Clett to obtain a photo of Castle Mestag. Our return voyage was as fortunate as our outward journey but not so our trip back to Thurso for we punctured twice, lost a valve, mended a tyre which gave out and eventually crawled home with a deflated tyre arriving at 9.30 instead of 7.30 as we reckoned. 18th Sept. [September] 1910. Although it is Sunday I must work to get finished this week. Wrote up notes in the morning and in the afternoon [Continued on page 102]
gb0551ms-36-19-102 [Page] 102 [Continued from page 101] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] paid a visit to the old House at the end of Davidson's Entry and entered from Bank St. (See p [page] [--]) Over the fire place of a room at the N [ North] end of the first floor is a finely carved mantlepiece. It measures 9' in length and 1'.8" in depth and extends considerably beyond the present fireplace. In the centre is a monogram formed of the letters DMC & sur: :rounded by a wreath of foliage. To the left of the wreath is an ornate shield charged with a shake fork and in chief a mullet and to the right a similar sheild bearing a crescent besant between three mullets the arms of Murray of Clairden to whom the house formerly belonged (Note. At the time I sketched the coat it appeared to me to be a crescent between 3 mullets) At the right end are the figures 16 and at the left 79. Along the top runs the legend "Semper focus bonus est." The thickness of the walls of the house is 3'. 19 Sept. [September] A very stormy day. I hired the car to finish off to Eastwards. Hall of Greenland (14) About 1/3 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of the farm of Ha' of Greenland situated in the middle of a cultivated field [Continued on page 103]
gb0551ms-36-19-103 [Page] 103 [Continued from page 102] is an artificial mound much reduced by ploughing. There is no definite indication of its character but it probably covers the remains of a broch. Canisbay Par. [Parish] (12) About 1 m. [mile] E [East] of Lochend farm, on the slope of the moorland and stretching back from the top of the steep bank, which has, in former times, been the margin of a lake, are various grassy mounds of low elevation and irregular surface. One, beside the bank, has a dia. [diameter] of some 35' and appears to be the remains of a turf structure. About 100 yds. [yards] ENE. [East North East] is another with a diameter of 45' and an elevation of 3' - 4'. Some 30 yds. [yards] to the S. [South] is another low mound with a slight circular depression in the centre, measuring over all 40' by 38'. The true nature of these remains is not obvious. Cairn of Hollomaik (22) Situated in a grass park some 200 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the farm of Hollomaik is a circular chambered cairn which was excavated by Sir Frances Tress Barry. The cairn measures, in diameter, from 41' to 43' and, in elevation, about 6'. At the base are several large boulders, irregularly placed, and evidently disturbed from their original positions, which appear to indicate that the base was outlined with such [Continued on page 104]
gb0551ms-36-19-104 [Page] 104 [Continued from page 103] stones. The chamber, which is tripartite, is entered from the ESE [East South East]. At 15'.6" inwards from the outer edge of the cairn, two upright slabs mark the entrance to an outer rectangular compartment, 2'.2" in length, and apparently some 4'.10" in width but the destruction of one side, has rendered the latter dimensions indefinite. It has opened between portal stones, one only of which remains, into the central compartment, which is circular, measuring 6' from back to front and 7' across. The wall, for the most part built of thin slabs, laid horizontally and corbelled out upwards, exists to a height of 3'.4". In the centre of the back is an opening 2'.9" in width between two upright slabs placed obliquely in the arc of the circular wall giving access to the third compartment a built semicircular recess 3' in depth. Its height has been that of the two upright slabs which are at present 1'.10" above ground level, but the lintel which rested on them is broken and the roof of the recess is in consequence in a ruined state. When excavated there were found "two urns of dark blue clay highly ornamented but in fragments" also "burned wood and ashes" (Information supplied by John Nicolson) [Continued on page 105]
gb0551ms-36-19-105 [Page] 105 [Continued from page 104] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] Broch Scoolary (13. 6) Some 30 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of the upper of the two crofts at Scoolary is a low artificial mound which has been long under cultivation. It appears to cover the ruins of a broch the wall of which is encountered when the area is ploughed. Alterwal Ruins (13) In the corner of a cultivated field, on the N. [North] side of a deep ditch running WNW [West North West] and ESE [East South East] & about 1/2 m. [mile] to the S [South] of Alterwall are the partially excavated remains of a dry built structure. The plan is now quite indefinite. The walls are about 5' in thickness and the building is probably mediaeval. A jug of hand made pottery formed from red clay, with a handle at one side and flat bottomed with a slight constriction at the neck was found in fragments in the ruin. It has been reconstructed, measures 8" in height and is in the possession of Mr. John Nicolson, Nybster. Murza Broch (8) About 1/2 m. [mile] ESE. [East South East] of Murza Farm in a field and under cultivation is a mound which contains the ruins of a broch. (The ground being under crop at the date of visit no details were obtainable) Bower Par. [Parish] Cairn Moss of Tain (12) At the S. [South] end of the Moss of Tain and by the edge of the cultivated land to the N [North] of Bowermadden, is a cairn-like mound somewhat oblong in form lying with its longest axis NW. [North West] & SE [South East] [Continued on page 106]
gb0551ms-36-19-106 [Page] 106 [Continued from page 105] It measures 100' by 65' and near the centre of its length it has an elevation of about 7'. Some 30' from the SE [South East] end two large slabs set on end & slightly converging towards the E. [East] protrude a few inches through the turf with which the mound is covered, while 40' from the NW. [North West] end stands another slab set at right angles to the longer axis in rear of which is a circular depression suggesting the existence of a chamber. Recollecting that a farm steward had told me of the existence of a "picts house" near Lochside we set about making enquiries. After several failures to gain information we found the shepherd who knew of a mound believed to be "the site of a chapel". Long Cairn Cooper's Hill On the top of a ridge known as Cooper's Hill and about 1/2 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] of the cottages at Loch: :side are the remains of a long cairn lying with its major axis NW [North West] and SE [South East]. The prominent end of the cairn has been towards the SE [South East]. The extreme length along the mesial line is 220' but the construction has been so delapidated and spread in cultivation of the land that other dimensions are now indefinite. [Continued on page 107]
gb0551ms-36-19-107 [Page] 107 [Continued from page 106] 20 Sept. [September] 1910. As my inspection at Forse was carried out in a fog and occasional deluges of rain I deemed it expedient to return if opportunity offered so today with Prof. [Professor] Bryce I trained to Lybster & drove from there. My photo. [photograph] of the larger standing stone at Buldoo having been a failure I went on to Latheron and secured another. Seeing Mr. Williamson I made further enquiry for the corner of the sculptured stone in the Museum which John Nicolson told me one of the brothers had found but could get no satisfaction. They all assert complete ignorance of it. Forse Hut Circles (O. S. [Ordnance Survey] "tumuli") In the enclosed moorland that lies to the W [West] and SW [South West] of Forse House and towards the S. [South] end of it about 1/2 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of the house is a group of hut circles. One situated some 50 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the wall enclosing a decayed plantation has a diameter over all of 35'. The wall is overgrown and not very clearly defined but appears to be about 6'.6" in thickness. The entrance has been from the E. [East] and one portal stone just protrudes through the turf. Some 200 yds. [yards] to the NW [North West] are three circles situated in close proximity to [Continued on page 108]
gb0551ms-36-19-108 [Page] 108 [Continued from page 107] one another. The centre one which occupies a slightly higher elevation than the others has an interior diameter of 26'. The bank which is much dilapidated is stony and has probably been built. The entrance is from the SE. [South East] but is of indefinite width. The circle to the S. [South] is too delapidated for accurate definition. In the centre is a circular hollow some 8' in diameter & 2'.6" in depth apparently built at the back. In front of this circle [arrow pointing to 'The circle to the S.'] is a circular enclosure with a diameter of about 40 yds. [yards] demarcated by a line of huge slabs and boulders. The third circle lies to the E. [East] of the first and almost contiguous. It has an interior diameter of 19' and is entered from the SE. [South East] by a passage 2'.9" in width. The thickness of the wall is indefinite About 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the last is another hut circle much ruined and with many displaced stones lying in the interior. The interior diameter has been some 24', the thickness of the wall 6' and the entrance from the SE [South East]. Some 30' to the NE [North East] and connected by a line of large boulders is another small [Continued on page 109]
gb0551ms-36-19-109 [Page] 109 [Continued from page 108] circle formed in the arc of a large circular enclosure defined by boulders and slabs set upright. In connection with these circles are various curving lines of great slabs and boulders forming the boundaries of enclosures. They are set on end and show no sign of construction. Prof. [Professor] Bryce agreed with me as to the natural character of the small mounds lying between these hut circles and Forse House. One has been excavated for the erection of some structure in its interior, probably a hut of some kind. Standing Stone Forse. In the corner of an enclosed wood some 200 yds. [yards] ENE. [East North East] of the gamekeeper's house at Forse is a standing stone. It is rectangular in section, measuring 2' x 1'.2" and 5'.8" in height above ground. In direction it faces NNW. [North North West] and SSE [South South East]. 21st Sept [September] 1910 Halkirk Par. [Parish] Long Cairn Knockglass (Unnoted) Situated at the edge of a high bank above the Water of Forse and about 150 yds. [yards] SSE. [South South East] of the Mill of Knockglas is a long cairn. It lies with its major axis NW. [North West] and SE. [South East] and ex: :pands and rises in elevation towards the latter direction terminating at the very edge of the bank. The cairn is entirely overgrown with grass and has been much [Continued on page 110]
gb0551ms-36-19-110 [Page] 110 [Continued from page 109] quarried an indefinite portion having been removed from the NW. [North West] end. As it now exists it measures 112' in length, 31' in width at the NW. [North West] end and about 46' at the SE [South East] extremity where its outline is somewhat disturbed. The elevation at the higher end is about 6' and at the lower 2'. Along the sides the lower courses of the facing wall is visible though displaced. Some 30' in from the higher end there protrudes through the turf the head of a large slab set on end at right angles to the main axis of the cairn. Cairn of Howe. Returning from Knockglass we turned aside to inspect the remains of the cairn of Howe from which the stone & bronze celts were re: :covered. No where on the farm could we find a trace of it nor did a youth whom we interrogated know anything about it. I fear it has been entirely removed & the site ploughed over. Old House Shore St. Thurso. On the N. [North] side of Shore street Thurso is an old 17th century dwelling of picturesque ap: :pearance. It is a two storeyed building 57' in length with a circular turret 6'.6" in diameter standing out in the centre of the frontage containing the stair that communicates with the houses [Continued on page 111]
gb0551ms-36-19-111 [Page] 111 [Continued from page 110] on the upper floor. On the skewput of the W [West] gable at the S. [South] side are the initials D W K R and the date 1686. To the NW. [North West] of St. Peter's church is an ancient building used as a granary. It has been entirely renewed inside but it is doubtful if it was originally a dwelling house. On a corbel at the S.W. [South West] angle are the initials WS. KP. and on one of the upper quoins at the opposite side of the gable the date June 1627. This house is said to have been the bishop's granary but I do not know if there is any evidence for this statement. At the end of the alley which runs W. [West] from Davidson's Entry is an old house with its back to Bank St. Architecturally it presents no feature of interest but in a room on the first floor is a fine old carved mantelpiece of stone dating probably from the end of the 17th century. It is 4' in length by 1'.1" in depth. Along the top runs an egg en: :richment. In the centre of the panel beneath is a heraldic shield charged in the first quarter with [--] [Opposite page - sketch inserted] in the second are set the letters GMM. [middle M centred above G M] and in the third & fourth respectively the initials I and S. Over all is the engrailed cross of the [Continued on page 112]
gb0551ms-36-19-112 [Page] 112 [Continued from page 111] Sinclairs. Supporting the shield on either side is a lion passant while a thistle and a rose complete the ornamentation at the respective ends of the panel. The carving is bold and somewhat rough. Along the Victoria Walk & about 1/2 m. [mile] W. [West] of Thurso are the remains of chapel. The gables have been reduced to the level of the side walls, the doors & windows built up and the interior used as a burial place. It measures over all 44'.3" by 19'.8". In the S. [South] wall have been two round-headed windows with continuous bead & hollow mouldings measuring 2' x 3'.8" and a larger window has occupied the centre of the E [East] gable. The building probably belongs to the 17th century. 22nd Sept. [September] 1910. Left Thurso and after an eleven hours journey reached Edinburgh at 9.15 p.m. It has been a bad summer as far as the weather was concerned, worse even than that of last year. The county has yeilded much more than I expected that was unknown. I have increased the list of brochs to nearly 150, I have added some 12 long cairns to those already known and I have found a class of [Continued on page 113]
gb0551ms-36-19-113 [Page] 113 [Continued from page 112] structure in the Parish of Latheron hitherto unrecorded. These I shall designate "galleried dwellings" as being the most descriptive term I can think of.
gb0551ms-36-19-114 [Page] 114 MS/36/19 A. O. Curle
gb0551ms-36-19-115 [Page] 115 A Achscrabster -- 5. Achiesbreskill -- 23. Achraemie -- 23. 26. Assery -- 40. B Brawlbin -- 9. Bishops Castle - Thurso -- 19. Brough Castle -- 35. Brubster -- 40. Broubster -- 42. Buaille Asserie -- 43. Birkle Hill -- 61. Barrogil Castle -- 64. Brawl Castle -- 66. Bower -- 68.
gb0551ms-36-19-116 [Page] 116 C. Calder Loch -- 1. 40. 44. Creagan Tigh-a-Chrannaich -- 14. Cnoc-Fri-Sithean [Cnoc Freicedain] -- 23. Castletown -- 34. Coer-a-Chaise [Torr a' Chaise] -- 41. Castle Hill Broch -- 47. Crosskirk -- 51. Clinag Mound -- 60. D. Dunnet -- 34. 47. Dirlot -- 49. 63. DounReay -- 53.
gb0551ms-36-19-117 [Page] 117 E. F. Forse Water -- 31.
gb0551ms-36-19-118 [Page] 118 G. Geise Broch -- 17. Greenland Links -- 47. H. Holborn Head -- 20. Hopefield Cairn -- 31. Hunspow -- 35. Ham -- 36. Halkirk -- 42. Hoy -- 66.
gb0551ms-36-19-119 [Page] 119 J. K Knockglas -- 4. Kerry Goe -- 36. Kirk-o-Tang -- 38.
gb0551ms-36-19-120 [Page] 120 L Leurary -- 1. Lythemore Broch -- 31. Lower Dounreay -- 53. M Mhuilinn Loch -- 11. Murkle -- 39. 46. Methow Hillock -- 40.
gb0551ms-36-19-121 [Page] 121 Mc N. Nybster -- 58. Netherside Cairn -- 61.
gb0551ms-36-19-122 [Page] 122 O. Oust -- 33. Olrig -- 34. 59. P. Port-an-eilein -- 8.
gb0551ms-36-19-123 [Page] 123 Q. Quintfa' Moss -- 35. R Reay -- 32. 57. 91. Rattar -- 37. Rossy Hillock -- 39.
gb0551ms-36-19-124 [Page] 124 S. St. Trostan's Chapel -- 4. Shurrery -- 5. 14. Skinnet -- 17. St. Thomas' Chapel Skinnet -- 18. Scrabster Broch -- 19. Shebster -- 20. Stemster Broch. Reay -- 32. St. John's Loch -- 35. St. Mary's Lybster -- 52. Sandside -- 56. Sibminster Broch -- 59. St. Trothan's Church -- 60. Shalmstry -- 66. Sordal Hill -- 68. T. Tulach-an-T-Sionnaich -- 1. Torrovaich -- 16. Tigh-a-Bheannach -- 16. Thingsva -- 30. Thurdistoft -- 34.
gb0551ms-36-19-125 [Page] 125 U. Upper DounReay -- 26. V.
gb0551ms-36-19-126 [Page] 126 W. Westfield -- 1. Y.