Curle Diary 02

Page Transcription Transcriber's notes
gb0551ms-36-8-1 [Page 1] [Blank page]
gb0551ms-36-8-2 [Page] 2 [Continued from page 1] this unassuming hotel which is remarkably clean and comfortable. - The scenery is less grand than at Lairg, but the place is more solitary and a little less cold. There are two other visitors, both Englishman, one a fisher, who has toiled all day for one trout, the other a middle-aged cyclist, whom we met at Lairg, and who is en route for Cape Wrath. Farr After tea, Jocelyn and I set out for Klibreck, where Mrs. E. Morrison had told me of a standing stone. On enquiring the way at the farm buildings I learned from the shepherd that not far off on the hill side to the S. [South] was a hut circle and some cairns. These he took us to see. They are [Margin] Unnoted situated at the E [East] end of a ridge about ½ m. [mile] S. [South] of Klibreck Ho. [House] and consist of a circle somewhat oval in form with diameter of 28’ x 36’ enclosed by a Stoney bank about 8 ft. [feet] across and 18” to 2’ high with an entrance towards the S.E. [South East]. In its immediate vicinity are some ten or twelve small round cairns covered with vegetation, ea. [each] about 15’ diameter and 2 ft. [feet] high. The shepherd told me of other similar remains on the moors. Locally the cairns are supposed to be the graves of King Harald’s warriors and the circle the fort in which they made their [Continued on page 3]
gb0551ms-36-8-3 [Page 3] [Continued from page 2] last stand! On the top of a knoll to the [Margin] Unnoted S.S.E. [South South East] of the farm buildings and about 300 yds [yards] E. [East] of the last are the remains of a circular enclosure. The Interior diameter is about 28’ the surrounding stoney bank about 12’ across and the height, on the S. [South], where the natural surface of the ground declines, about 3’ externally and about 1 1/2’ in the interior. About 1/2 mile S.E. [South East] of the farm buildings on a piece of marshy ground to the S. [South] of the enclosure called Stewart’s Park, are two upright slabs of undressed stone within 6 or 7 feet of each [Margin] Unnoted Celtic other. On N. [North] face of the most Southerly is, roughly chiselled out, a Celtic cross long-shafted with the arms expanding towards the ends, and the angles at the points of intersection rounded. The height of the stone above ground is 3’.10”: its breadth 14”. Total length of cross ex: :posed 42”. Upper arm 8”, side arms 4 1/2” stem 32”. About 40’ to the W. [West] of the standing stone [Margin - Sketch inserted here] are the foundations of a small rectangular building. Its outline is now somewhat indef: :inite. Externally it measures about 21 ft. [feet] over all. internally the diameter seems to be about 12 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West] by 20 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South]. At the [Continued on page 4]
gb0551ms-36-8-4 [Page 4] [Continued from page 3] NE [North East] corner a larger mass of debris suggests some additional structure at that point. Numer: :ous large stones protrude from the ground in the vicinity but none of them, as far as ascertain: :able, show any symbols. On the lowest slopes of the hill, immediately to the South, are numerous foundations of buildings, which indicate a considerable settlement at some remote period, or only previous to the clearances in 1810. Sunday 16th May. Still very cold, but a trifle less rigorous than yesterday. Attended the U.F. [United Free] Church and spoke to the Rev. [Reverend] Mr. Mackay, afterwards arranging to go to Grum-more Broch etc. tomorrow. In afternoon we walked along the N. [North] side of the loch and found about 1/2 m. [mile] E. [East] of the cross-roads on [Margin] See p. [page] 18 the underside of the road by the loch, three hut circles and a number of small cairns chiefly on the lower side of them. The entrances, as usual, to the S.E. [South East]. In the evening MacIntyre, Mr. Baxendale’s keeper, came to see me and offered to take me to the groups of tumuli N. [North] of Achness on Tuesday. I found him a very intelligent man, interested in the etymology of the [Continued on page 5]
gb0551ms-36-8-5 [Page 5] [Continued from page 4] local place names &c. Farr. Mon. 17th May. Met Mr. Mackay at the manse at 10.0 and bicycled along the N. [North] side of the [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 54 loch to the broch at Grum-more (Mr Mackay’s spelling) or Gruamamor (O.S.) [Ordnance Survey] It is situated on the shore of the loch about 4 m. [miles] from Altnahara Inn. It is much di: :lapidated. The entrance faces the W. [West] and is almost closed to the outside. One of the door checks is still in situ on the right of the passage and 3 ft. [feet] in from it on the same side the entrance to the guard chamber is still observable, but almost closed with debris. For a distance of 9 ft. [feet] towards the Interior i.e. from the door check, the covering stones re: :main on roof of the passage. The breadth of the passage towards the Interior is 2’.6” its height is not ascertainable. The entrance to the guard chamber is 2 ft. [feet] below the roof. The Interior diameter is 29’ to 30’ and the thickness of the wall on the top 10 ft. [feet]. Through the passage 12’.6”. The highest portion of the wall is about 10 ft. [feet] above the lowest portion of the interior. About 21’ to the right of the entrance is the entrance to a chamber almost filled with stones and [Continued on page 6]
gb0551ms-36-8-6 [Page 6] [Continued from page 5] from opposite the doorway, round by the N. [North] to the W. [West] there seems almost a continuous chamber - as the top of it is almost level [Margin] Probably a chamber + outer stair with the top of the entrance passage it cannot be a gallery. At about the level of the top of the door way, there is a ledge or scarcement about 10” broad on average, running around the interior and formed by the thinning of the wall upwards. The masonry below is large and bonded into the wall showing it to be an integral part of the original construction. Thence we [Margin] (Unnoted) bicycled on to Grumbeg (O.S. [Ordnance Survey] Gruamabeag) where on the top of the E [East] wall of the en: :closed ancient burial ground of the Aberach Mackays and about 6 ft. [feet] from the S.E. [South East] corner, Mr. Mackay directed my attention to a stone with a singular cross on it. The stone measures 28” in length 6” in depth and 7” in width. Incised on it at one end is a curious cross, 13” long & occupy: :ing the breadth of the stone. The top & bottom arms are slightly longer than the side ones and all have at the ends semicircular expansions - those at one end and on one side (the other side [Continued on page 7]
gb0551ms-36-8-7 [Page 7] [Continued from page 6] being apparently imperfect) being relieved with two small triangular compartments, while the semicircle at the opposite end contains a figure resembling a W. - a few feet to the N. [North] of the above, [Margin] Unnoted. also on the top of the wall, is a similar slab with a quadrangular figure 8” square incised on the face of it and by two intersecting lines, itself divided into 9 small square figures. Within [Margin] Unnoted the grave yard lies a small triangular stone of micaceous schist, 20” x 18” x 4” thick showing on its face three well defined cup-marks, of about 3” dia. [diameter] and 1 1/2” depth. Towards the base of the stone is a less well- defined marking (This is accurately des: :cribed & illus. [illustrated] in the Pro. S. of A.S. [Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland] 10 &c.). On our return journey we met the shepherd from Grumbeg near the [Margin] see p. [page] 18. hut circles & he pointed out the position of another and a number of cairns on the higher ground to the N. [North]. The boulders on which formerly rested a large, flat stone, illustrated in Mr. Horsburgh’s paper, are situated at the road side, about 300 yds. [yards] to the E [East] of his house. [Continued on page 8]
gb0551ms-36-8-8 [Page 8] [Continued from page 7] The covering slab was removed & broken up for road metal many years ago. Nearly all the shepherds in this part of the country are border men, whose fathers were imported by Dr. [Doctor] Robson Scott when he introduced the Cheviot sheep. There are Ormistons, Turnbulls, Elliots, Chisholms, Andersons, and Borthwicks. [Margin] See Sage’s “Memorabilia domestica” The ruined remains of crofter settle: :ments are numerous around the loch, which bespeak a large population formerly. Hut circles and associated cairns also abound and it is now quite apparent to me that to chronicle all the relics of this class is impossible. I got back to lunch at 1.30 and Jocelyn returned from fishing having caught a 4 lb. [pound] salmon just when she started. At 2.15 we set out for the loch to row down and examine the broch on the S. [South] side. It is situated on a [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 54 small island about 1 1/2 miles E. [East] of Klibreck and is connected with the shore by a causeway of rough boulders about 10 ft. [feet] broad and about 100 ft. [feet] long. The Interior is filled with debris to a height above the level of the top of the doorway and almost to that of the [Continued on page 9]
gb0551ms-36-8-9 [Page 9] [Continued from page 8] first gallery. The height of the wall exposed on the best preserved portion of the exterior is 11 ft. [feet] and it is not much less at any point. Internally the wall rises only about 4 ft. [feet] above the debris. At the highest point the wall is 13’.6” thick. The entrance is towards the E. [East] through a passage, now almost filled up with stones, 2’.6” wide towards the outside, and 3’ wide at 10’ inwards. There has been a guard chamber on the right the entrance to which is blocked with fallen stones. The doorchecks are not visible. The covering stones remain in situ over the greater part of the entrance passage. The interior diameter is 31 feet. A stone wall flanks the broch at 15 ft. [feet] distant towards the shore side and swings round towards the broch near the entrance where the mass of fallen stones conceals its connection. This wall has been pierced with a doorway 3 ft. [feet] wide at the end of the causeway, the jambs of which remain in position. [Margin] Unnoted. On the top of a knoll about 200 yds [yards] to the S. [South] of the broch is a cairn with a diameter of about 18’ and about 40 yds. [yards] to the S. [South] a circle surrounded by a stoney bank, about 35’ intr. [interior] diameter with the entrance towards the S.E. [South East] [Continued on page 10]
gb0551ms-36-8-10 [Page] 10 [Continued from page 9] [Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-10a [Page] 10 [Continued from page 9] We trolled home through very rough water but beyond each touching a fish got no excite: :ment. Our letters brought news that Mary has tonsilitis at St. Cuthberts, which worries me. Loch Naver seems good for salmon & sea trout fishing, but not for trout. The landlord, however, rents a small trout loch in the hills, not yet, however, fishable. Tues. [Tuesday] 18 May. A showery morning but not quite so cold. The Minister called for me at 9.30 and having picked up McIntyre, the keeper, we set out over the moors for Loch Coire nam Feuran, 7 miles distant as the crow flies in the neighbourhood of which are numerous “tumuli” &c. On our way thither, by the side of the old drove road from Strath Naver to Lairg, and about 1 mile S.S.E. [South South East] of the broch on the S. [South] side of Loch Naver, [Margin] Unnoted. we found a hut circle the walling of which for 2/3 of its circumference was exposed. The Internal diameter was about 34’: the thickness of the wall about 5’ widening at either side of the entrance so as to form an entrance passage about 9 ft. [feet] in length; the breadth of the passage was not, however, ascertainable. The entrance as usual was towards the S.E. [South East]. The “wall” or [Continued on page 11]
gb0551ms-36-8-11 [Page] 11 [Continued from page 10] circle of stones was composed of boulders of moderate & various sizes with larger stones on the exterior. There was no appearance of [Margin] Unnoted. building visible. A short distance to the E. [East] lies another circle, overgrown with turf, with about a dozen small round cairns of about 15 ft. [feet] diameter lying [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 35. around it. Loch Coire nam Feuran is a narrow loch about half a mile in length, having on its south side a picturesque wood of old birch trees, in rear of which is a fresh green hill, formerly cultivated, a: :round the S. [South] & E. [East] side of which are the foundations of numerous crofters dwellings &c. On the N. [North] side of the loch at the top of the bank, which rises from its shore are also remains of crofts and in their vicinity several small round cairns of the usual size and appearance. One of these near the W. [West] end, unnoted, is circular about 2’ high, covered with heather, 16’ or 17’ in diameter and with an accumulation of about 10” of peat on the top. I have pierced the covering of many of these so-called tumuli and find the stones almost always at from 8” to 10” beneath the surface. [Continued on page 12]
gb0551ms-36-8-12 [Page 12] [Continued from page 11] About 60 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the last is a similar cairn and about 350 yds. [yards] N. [North] of that is a circular enclosure of the usual type with a small round cairn about 40 ft. [feet] N.E. [North East] & another about 80 ft. [feet] to the W. [West]. About 100 yds. [yards] N.E [North East] of the first circle is another of similar type. All these occupy the crest of a ridge about 500 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the W. [West] end of the loch. To the North of this ridge lie two small hills – the one about 300 yds [yards] E [East] of the other. On the former are a number of small cairns on the summit and along its Western face but no signs of hut circles. The W. [West] hill presents several features of interest. On its E. [East] slope is an enclosure of an irregular oval form having its lower or E [East] end open like a horse shoe. Its longest diameter is about 70 ft. [feet] and the breadth across the open end 33 ft. [feet]. It is surrounded by a rough line of boulders which may have formed the base of a turf wall. At the W. [West] end there appears to have been a narrow entrance and on the left of it the foundations of a small circular hut with an internal diameter of about 6 ft. [feet]. Immediately outside to the W. [West] are the [Continued on page 13]
gb0551ms-36-8-13 [Page] 13 [Continued from page 12] remains of a singular enclosure – trilobate in form – having apparently had three chambers radiating off a common centre. These chambers measure internally about 6’ x 4’ and the Interior diameter of the structure bisecting the N. [North] and S. [South] chambers which are nearly in line is 28 ft. [feet]. The measurement through the chamber to the S.E. [South East] to the centre of the opposite wall is 17 ft. [feet]. The entrance is doubtful but appears to have been through the main wall to the S.E. [South East]. About 30 ft. [feet] N. [North] of this enclosure is the outline of a small irregular oval measuring internally 11’ x 8’ with an entrance to the S.E. [South East]. Around [Margin] No. 35 O.S. [Ordnance Survey] the hill chiefly on the N. [North] and W. [West] are 14 or 15 small round cairns. There are one or two long banks of stone whose purpose is difficult to determine and there seem to have been other large enclosures now in part obliterated. Crossing the burn which leaves the loch at its W. [West] end we (McIntyre & I for the minister had long previously left to call on on one of his flock) climbed the slope opposite through the birch trees. Several [Continued on page 14]
gb0551ms-36-8-14 [Page] 14 [Continued from page 13] cairns here appeared to me to be heaps of stones gathered from the fields, but at the top of the slope, near where the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] has indicated tumuli, just outside the wood about 1/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of the loch & nearly opposite the bay that indents its S. [South] side is a curious cairn, which bears the appearance [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 36. of Antiquity. It is at highest only about 1 1/2 above present level, it is 38 ft. [feet] long – lies N. [North] and S. [South]. It is about 7’ broad at the N. [North] end but its general breadth for 26’ S. [South]wards is about 5 ft. [feet] and, thence expanding, measures 10’ across at its S. [South] extremity. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 38. About 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of the W. [West] end of the loch on the W. [West] slope of the Cnoc Bad an t-Sithein and by the side of the pass, which leads from Strath Naver to Loch Coir ‘an Fhearna scattered over a considerable distance extending to several hundred yards are a great number of small round cairns overgrown with peat. The O.S. [Ordnance Survey] indicates 35 but there must be about three times that number. There are no signs of circles near or any indication of a settlement. About half [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 37. a mile N.N.W. [North North West] of these the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] indicates 6 tumuli – these are also of the small type [Continued on page 15]
gb0551ms-36-8-15 [Page] 15 [Continued from page 14] and present no particular features of interest. On turning homewards I felt I was tired as we had traversed many miles of rough country, through heather & over boggy tracts. I was there: :fore not a little pleased to meet Jocelyn, who had landed from her boat on the loch to look out for me about a couple of miles from home. She had fished all day with no success and trolling home brought us none either. I compute my mileage at about 16 today. At breakfast we were rejoiced by a telegram from Chrissie announcing that Mary was much better. The keeper was a most interesting companion, as in exchange for my lore he gave me his and told me much of the habits of the deer and the wild birds. He drew my attention to the great number of stumps of fir trees which appeared in the peat where -ever it had been cut into by the burns or the water at the sides of the lochs. No fir trees grow here now. 19th May. A fine morning. We hired a trap to drive to Dun Dornadilla. We had a most lovely drive of about 12 miles through moors becoming more and more lonely as we went on. To the N. [North] Ben Loyal rose, an ideal [Continued on page 16]
gb0551ms-36-8-16 [Page] 16 [Continued from page 15] [Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-16a [Page] 16 [Continued from page 15] mass of precipice and pinnacle, while Westward were Ben Hee and Ben Hope, both white with snow. Loch Meadie, which we passed about 5 miles out was very beautiful with Ben Laoghal rising far away behind it, and its surface broken by islands, covered to the waters edge, with birches. We saw great numbers of deer some of them quite near the road regardless of our presence. A very steep hill brought us down into Strath More where beside the river rise the remains of [Margin] Durness. OS [Ordnance Survey] 5. Dun Dornadilla. The broch stands on the E. [East] side of the Strath about 1/2 mile S. [South] of Alltnacaillich at a bend of the Strath More river with its base about 12 ft. [feet] above the ordinary level of the stream. The broch is much ruined but on the E [East] side a portion of the outer wall above the entrance stands to a height of 22 ft. [feet]. The inner portion of this part with the galleries having fallen, a buttress has been built for support of the remainder. The rest of the structure is reduced to the level of the floor of the first gallery and varies from 6’ to 11’ in height externally. The interior is 27’ in diar. [diameter] [Continued on page 17]
gb0551ms-36-8-17 [Page] 17 [Continued from page 16] and the top of the walls at their present level 8’ in thickness. The entrance faces the N.E. [North East] and is now only 3 ft. [feet] in height. It is 3 ft. [feet] 4” wide at the outside and is covered by a large triangular block of stone 4’.8” along its base and 3’ in height. The passage is for the greater part blocked with stones and only the two outer covering stones remain in position At 3’.9” inward on the left side one of the checks of the doorway stands in situ but beyond this the passage is entirely ruined on the opposite side there is still evidence of the existence of the guard chamber. The interior is filled up with debris almost to the level of the top of the surrounding wall. At a distance of about 24’ round the circumference to the left of the entrance in the interior is a large lintel which indicates the entrance to a chamber, and [Margin] This is the usual position of the stair-entrance to left of main entrance directly opposite the doorway a small opening reveals the top of a chamber roofed with over-lapping flags. There is now no sign of the staircase. There is the usual balter on the wall. We lingered round the broch for about 1 1/2 hours making measurements & notes & eating our lunch. [Continued on page 18]
gb0551ms-36-8-18 [Page] 18 [Continued from page 17] [2 photographs inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-18a [Page] 18 [Continued from page 17] and we also took two photos of it – one showing the entrance & the other its general appearance and situation. The strath being protected from the E. [East] wind we were able thoroughly to enjoy the sunshine and warmth. Having driven back to the cross roads near Altnaharra we proceded 1/2 m. [mile] along the road on the S. [South] (N. [North]?) of the Loch to inspect the hut circles & tumuli on the S. [South] slope of Meall a’ Ghuit Mhoir, which rises to a height of 600 ft. [feet] in the angle between the road to Tongue and Loch Naver. About 1/2 mile E. [East] of the two mile-stones near [Margin] see p. [page] 4 the bridge over the Mudale River on the S. [South] side of the road are three hut-circles previously described and a number of cairns, and between these and the top of the hill to the North there must be nearly 100 more cairns and a number of circles. The circles are mostly on the upper part of the hill About 200 ft. [feet] above the road is a circle of very distinct outline. Its internal diar. [diameter] is 35 ft. [feet]: the thickness of the enclosing bank 5 ft. [feet] the entrance to the S. [South] about 5 ft. [feet] wide. About 100 ft [feet] to the N.E. [North East] is another circle overgrown with heather and on the West end of the top of the hill another [Continued on page 19]
gb0551ms-36-8-19 [Page] 19 [Continued from page 18] with the usual features and the entrance to the S. [South]. About 120 yds. [yards] E [East] of this and between it and the highest point of the hill lies a circle of peculiar type. Its internal diameter is 6 ft. [feet] from E to W. [East to West] and 7 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South]. The entrance which is narrow is to the S. [South]. The enclosing banks [Margin] ?A kiln. which are covered with heather, but composed of stones beneath, are about 10 ft. [feet] broad on either side. On the N. [North] the bank is less distinct. There is a slight depression of about 5 ft. [feet] diameter before the entrance. About 70 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the summit is a very well defined circle. The surrounding bank is about 1 1/2 ft. [feet] high and at the entrance to the S.E. [South East] on the E [East] side is a large upright slab standing 1’.9” above the present ground level & forming a portal. The internal diameter is about 24 ft. [feet]. In front are several cairns. These cairns are round but seldom circular being in general oval in outline measuring about 15 ft. [feet] by 12 ft. [feet]. They lie with the longest axis in no particu: :lar direction and though usually around the hut circles are not always associated with them. In the case of one I observed three large [Continued on page 20]
gb0551ms-36-8-20 [Page] 20 [Continued from page 19] flat slabs set on end in line leaning against the one side giving the cairn a more carefully finished appearance. After tea we fished for an hour or so in the Mudale river but without much success. 26th. May. A wet morning. I Said farewell to Altnaharra sorrowfully and took the road on my bicycle along the N. [North] side of the loch. Although threatening for a time, the rain kept off and by the time I reached the lower end of the Loch it was fine. On my way I looked out for the boulders described by Mr. Horsburgh on the top of which formerly lay a large flat slab. The slab has long since been broken up for road metal. The boulders are by the S. [South] side of the road about 300 yds. [yards] beyond the shepherd's cottage at Greem-beg. It is very doubtful if they have been placed in their present position otherwise than naturally. About 30 ft. [feet] further on, on [Margin] Unnoted. the opposite side of the road is a small circle surrounded by a stony bank about 3'.6" across except where there is an entrance to the S. [South]. It is slightly oval with an internal diameter of 7' x 9' the longest axis being towards the entrance. To the N. [North] of the small [Continued on page 21]
gb0551ms-36-8-21 [Page] 21 [Continued from page 20] knoll immediately in rear of this circle are 10 or 12 small cairns of the usual type one or two of which appear to have been opened. Leaving my bicycle in the heather about 50 yds [yards] back from the road I crossed the river by a most primitive suspension bridge & walking about 100 yards along the river bank towards the loch I found the stone with the hole in it to which Mr. Mackay at Altnaharra had directed my attention. It has within 6ft. [feet] of the stream about 400 yds. [yards] from the [Margin] Evidently an old mill stone. loch. It is an irregularly shaped slab with a roundish tendency of 3' dia. [diameter] from N. [North] to S. [South] & E [East] to W [West] and 5" thick. At 11 1/2" from its S. [South] end is a circular hole 6" across and 3" deep. The sides are vertical and the bottom is slightly convex. From the upper edge a narrow channel 1" wide and 11 1/2" long has been chiselled to the side of the stone. The stone is of the ordinary grey rock of the district. About 1/2 m. [mile] W. [West] at the E. [East] end of the wood on the S. [South] side of the loch and on a short spit of land pro: :jecting into it are the remains of a broch [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 34 marked "hut circle" on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey]. It has been built of very large stones and has been [Continued on page 22]
gb0551ms-36-8-22 [Page] 22 [Continued from page 21] most completely demolished. Only on the E. [East] side is any walling visible & that for a short dis: :tance N. [North] of the entrance. The N. [North] side of the entrance passage remains entire to a height of 2'.9" at the outside. The passage has been 12' in length and at 3'.9" from the outside on the right has been the entrance to the guard chamber. The chamber shows signs of secret excavation. The whole diameter of the broch has been about 52 ft. [feet]. The en: :trance has faced the S.E. [South East]. The landward end of the spit has been marshy or probably partially under water and is crossed by a causeway which runs in the direction of the entrance. At 38ft. [feet] distant from the entrance are the ruins of a wall which flanked the broch on the landward side & apparently curved inward towards it on the E. & W. [East & West]. Retracing my steps to Achness over some 3/4 mile of marshy ground I crossed 'Mhail Aird by a bridge where it dashed down in cascades over the rocks to join the Naver. About 1 1/2 m. [miles] beyond the bridge up the river & rather more than 1/2 m. [mile] E [East] of it on the shoulder of the Cnoc na Gamhna & about the 500' contour line is a large group of tumuli. They are many [Continued on page 23]
gb0551ms-36-8-23 [Page] 23 [Continued from page 22] score in numbers with a few hut circles [Margin] Farr O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 39. interspersed among them especially towards the S. [South] end. The cairns are of the usual small class and the circles present no unusual features though one or two of them are remarkably well preserved with the walls about a couple of feet high and with upright stones of about the same height on either side of the entrance. At the extreme S. [South] end of the group and at the edge of the swampy ground is a peculiar construction. Two [Margin] ?kiln. mounds apparently composed of earth & small stones about 30 ft. [feet] long 12 ft. [feet] thick and 4' to 5' high lie parallel about 6 ft. [feet] apart in N. [North] & S. [South] direction. Between them, are two well defined depressions the one at the N. [North] end measuring about 8' (long) x 6' (broad) & unbanked up to the N. [North] end. The S. [South] hollow measures about 7' x 6'. They are divided from each other by a ridge joining the mounds about 4 ft [feet] long and 2 ft. [feet] broad from which large stones protrude suggesting walling. At the S. [South] end of the S. [South] hollow lies a flat lintel 3 ft. [feet] long and 20" broad. it is supported on stones at either side & is at present a few inches above the soil underneath which is free from stone & is quite loose. About 1/2 m. [mile] to the S. [South] just above [Continued on page 24]
gb0551ms-36-8-24 [Page] 24 [Continued from page 23] the 500’ contour line and 200 yds [yards] N. [North] of the 2nd. tributary of the Mhail Aird are two hut circles within about 20 ft. [feet] of each other. That nearest the river is very well [Margin] Unnoted. preserved. It is slightly oval measuring 36 ft. [feet] x 33 ft. [feet]. The enclosing wall is 6 ft. [feet] thick. The breadth of the passage 3 ft. [feet] the exterior angles of which are care: :fully rounded with an outline of large stones. There are signs of an ancient fence of stone & turf enclosing apparently about 1/2 acre in which the circles are situated. Across the stream to the S. [South] and higher up the slope of the hill to the E. [East] are many cairns Proceeding S. [South] at the same level, 500’ to 600’, round the W. side of the Cnoc na H’Iolaire one encounters [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 41 cairns in many hundreds stretching round the shoulder of the hill for fully a mile and over an area of nearly half a mile in breadth. The cairns are all of the usual sort – round & about 2 ft. [feet] high. One of the curious constructions with a hollow between two mounds was observed about the centre of the group. There are a few hut circles among the cairns, but proportionately very few. I counted about half a dozen. Across some lower ground opposite the W. [West] end of [Continued on page 25]
gb0551ms-36-8-25 [Page] 25 [Continued from page 24] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 42 Loch Truderscaig rises to the E. [East] a spur of the Cnoc Bad an Leathaid between the Allt na Creadha on the E. [East] and the Allt Truderscaig on the W. [West]. Here also about the 600 ft. [feet] level are numerous cairns and one or two hut circles, while a mile beyond to the E. [East] about [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 43 the same level is seen on the sky-line another large group. If these cairns represent the graves of the occupants of the hut circles there must have been many more of the latter than are now visible. The cairns and circles extend almost con: :tinuously along the slopes facing the Abhainn a’ Mhail Aird, on the W. [West] over the watershed to the N. [North] of Loch Truderscaig and the South end of Loch nan Cuidhean (or Rimsdale) The cairns present the same features, some very few have been opened, perhaps to dig out rabbits and there is no indication that any are of greater antiquity than the others. Though I had the furthest out group in full view I did not actually examine them at close quarters as I was many miles from where my bicycle lay in the heather and it was getting late in the afternoon. Just above Loch Trudescaig a bright green [Continued on page 26]
gb0551ms-36-8-26 [Page] 26 [Continued from page 25] stretch of the hillside studded with ruins showed where a crofter settlement existed before the glens were cleared. Having reached my bicycle I continued my journey to Syre over an excellent road and reached my destination, Mr. Chisholm’s cottage, where I found Jocelyn awaiting me. I bicycled 12 miles and must have walked nearly as many. I must own to having been a little tired. (see Notes p. [page] 32 Antiq. [Antiquities] 6 – 387) 21st May. Mrs. Chisholm makes us very comfortable, though we have to forego baths and a few other items usually considered necessities. Her husband was a farm manager to Mr. Sellar in the strath, and is now a crofter, with a nice two storied cottage, a small holding, and a right of pasturage over a Common of 1500 acres. Feeling very tired this morning I wrote up my notes left over from last night. After breakfast and after interviewing Mr. Chisholm, from whom I learned of the ex: :istence of an earth house, I set out on foot about 11.0 to explore the E. [East] bank of the Naver up to near its outlet. Crossing the Naver by the road bridge at Syre we pro: :ceeded by a path down the right bank. From within 3/4 m. [mile] of the bridge for nearly [Continued on page 27]
gb0551ms-36-8-27 [Page] 27 [Continued from page 26] 3 miles one meets numerous groups of cairns, many marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] maps but also many others. They lie mostly on a level area which intervenes between the flat land near the river and the higher ground behind. They present little difference in appearance; round, composed of boulders and about 2 ft. [feet] high in the centre and 12 - 14 ft. [feet] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 25 diameter. In the group situated about 2 m. [miles] S. [South] of the bridge is a cairn of peculiar appear: :ance. It lies N. and S. [North and South] and seems to be formed of two or probably three ordinary cairns connected each by a narrow neck. The third portion is entirely overgrown with heather and is not very distinct. The other two measure over all 45 ft. [feet] in length. The N. [North] cairn 17’ long – by 12’ broad at the widest part connected by a neck which gradually contracts till it is about 4 ft. [feet] wide & gradually expands to join the S. [South] cairn which is 15 ft. [feet] long and 12 ft. [feet] broad. The length of the connecting portion which is very distinct is 3 ft. [feet]. The connecting neck of the third cairn is also 3 ft. [feet] long & about 4’ wide & that cairn appears to be about 12’ or 13’ long. No part of the construction is more than 18” high. [Continued on page 28]
gb0551ms-36-8-28 [Page] 28 [Continued from page 27] It does not lie quite in a straight line. These do not seem to be cairns that have been connected by delapidation. The outline is too regular and continuous. A dozen or more cairns of the usual type lie around none of them ruined. About half a mile further on, on the top of a bank about 100 ft. [feet] above the river a somewhat similar construc: :tion is observable but it continued down the slope of the bank to the N. [North] and curved round in such a way as to suggest a ruined wall! There are certain measurements of it in my notebook. A short distance further on on the N. [North] side of the burn that flows into the river opposite Ceann-na- -Coille are a hut circle of the usual character & more cairns. Half a mile to the S. [South] and about the same distance E [East] of the river within an ancient enclosure the ruined wall of which is partially visible at the S.W. [South West] corner are some 15 cairns of the usual type and a hut circle. The latter is of the usual oval form measuring 25 ft. [feet] from N to S. [North to South] towards the entrance and 20 ft. [feet] across It is peculiar [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 28 in having attached to it on the right hand side of the entrance another small circle measuring 7’ x 8’ with walls about 2 1/2 ft. [feet] broad [Continued on page 29]
gb0551ms-36-8-29 [Page] 29 [Continued from page 28] It appears to have had two entrances one facing the W [West] towards the entrance to the main circle and the other towards the SE. [South East]. About 50 ft. [feet] S.E. [South East] is a small circular depression about 7 ft. [feet] internal diameter with a low bank about 6 ft. [feet] across on the E. and W. [East and West] and a very slight bank on the N. [North]. Here I met the shepherd who told me that there are many hut circles in the hills about, and innumerable cairns. A hill called Cnoc na-Fhala (?spelling) i.e. Bloody knowe about 1/2 mile E [East] of the Clach an Righ [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 29. is covered with cairns. The Clach-an-Righ lies on a flat haugh beside the river. It is the remains of a stone circle with a low [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 30. cairn in the centre. Of the stones of the circle two only are upright standing almost N. and S. [North and South] of each other and 21’.6” apart. They both stand with their broad sides at right angles to the line of the circumference. On the W. [West] half of the circle three stones lie prone and between the two upright stones the head of another protrudes through the turf. With its end against the E. [East] face of the S. [South] upright lies a large stone on its edge its opposite end lying a foot or so beyond the line of the circumference. [Continued on page 30]
gb0551ms-36-8-30 [Page] 30 [Continued from page 29 The diameter of the circle appears to be about 22 ft. [feet] that of the cairn in the middle 11 ft. [feet]. The tall standing stone to the S. [South] is 8 ft. [feet] high – 10” broad at the top and 3’.6” at base. It is a flat slab 8” - 10” thick. The other standing stone is 6’ high, 2’.9” broad at base, and about 14” at top and about 8” thick. The three fallen stones on the W. [West], counting from the S. [South] stone Northwards, are 1st stone 9’ long, 2’.8” broad, 9” thick. 2nd 6’.6” long, 2’.8” broad & 8” thick 3rd lying on edge – 6’.6” long, 9” thick and 8” of its breadth visible. The head of the protruding stone is 2’ long. The slab against the S. [South] stone is 5’.4” long 1’.9” broad where most exposed and 3” to 4” thick. (The circle is plotted in my note book.) Retracing my steps to the bridge I crossed to the left bank of the river – examined the hut circle [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 27 above Ceann-na-Coille found them of the usual character. Saw the “tumuli” in the [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 26 distance to the N.W. [North West] but did not visit them as they appeared to be of the ordinary class which exist in thousands. About a mile down the river from the suspension bridge are a number of cairns between the road & the river and about 1/2 mile further on a hut circle & cairns on the opposite side [Continued on page 31]
gb0551ms-36-8-31 [Page] 31 [Continued from page 30] of the road. About 1 1/4 m. [miles] N. [North] of Ceann na Coille and about 1/8 m. [mile] W. [West] of the road in the centre of an old park and immediately behind a sheep [Margin] Unnoted fank is construction formed of two cairns [Margin] ?kiln. ?too large for a kiln of large stones converging towards the W. [West] and 16 ft. [feet] apart at the E. [East] the dia. [diameter] of the interior space being 31 ft. [feet]. The cairn on the N [North] is 34 ft. [feet] long & 13 ft. [feet] broad; that on the S. [South] 36 ft. [feet] long & 15 ft. [feet] broad. They both taper towards the W. [West] end. The Interior space is slightly hollowed out. At the S.W. [South West] end of the S. [South] cairn there has been some excavation. I am informed by Mr. Chisholm, Syre, for long farm manager over this property, that there existed here an entrance to an underground dwelling. It was flagged over and to the best of his remembrance was about 2 1/2’ high and 2 1/2’ to 3’ wide. It entered from the end of the S. [South] cairn on the S. [South] side and ran E [East] in the direction of its length. This construction is similar to the one noted on the hill above the Mhail Aird only this is larger. (see p. [page] 23). The cairns are about 4 ft. [feet] high. Here Jocelyn met me & walked home. I did about 10 - 12 miles today. After dinner we strolled a mile or two down the glen. It was a glorious [Continued on page 32]
gb0551ms-36-8-32 [Page] 32 [Continued from page 31] evening. 22nd May 1909. A lovely warm morning. Ac: :companied by Mr. & Mrs. Chisholm we ex: :amined the broch which occupied a com: :manding position on a ridge above the [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 54. Langdale burn. It is much ruined and has been built of large stones. The interior diameter is about 31 ft. [feet]; the thickness of the walls on the S. [South] side where there is a steep bank to the burn about 16 to 17 ft. [feet] on the N. [North] side about 15 ft. [feet]. The walls in the interior where most exposed about 3 ft. [feet] high. The Entrance is to the West by a passage 15 ft. [feet] long and 3 ft. [feet] wide at the outside. The wall of the passage on the S. [South] side is 3’.6” high on the other side its measurements are unobtainable. 3 ft. [feet] from the Interior on the S. [South] side of the passage is a built check for a door. At Syre on the [Margin] Unnoted. E [East] side of the road and quite close to it is a small fortified enclosure locally known as General Leslie’s fort. It is circular, surrounded on the W. [West] by a ditch 36 ft. [feet] across from top of rampart to top of counterscarp and 3 ft. [feet] deep from the outside level. The bank of the enclosure is 9 to 10 ft [feet] high on the W. [West] and has been sur: :mounted by a dry built stone wall about 15 ft. [feet] thick. The height of the bank to the Int. [Interior] is about 5 ft. [feet] [Continued on page 33]
gb0551ms-36-8-33 [Page] 33 [Continued from page 32] The Interior is about 52 ft. [feet] in diameter. There has been an entrance by a mound across the ditch on the S. [South] and apparently another on the N.E. [North East] flanked by a wall. The rampart is gone from the E [East] side where a stone wall is being built out of its material and as the interior of the fort is in cultivation what remains of the construction is in danger of demolition. The ditch has not been continued around the N.E. [North East] side. Leaving Jocelyn to bring on the luggage I set out on my bicycle. Calling [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 24 at Angus Gunn’s croft, his wife took me to see the stone with the crescentic symbol on it which lies against the wall at the N. [North] side of the field before his house. It is as described. At the upper end of the field beside the open drain is lying a large stone 2’.3” long 1’.7” broad with an oblong hollow in the direction of its length, about 3” deep at the centre and rising towards the ends which show signs of attrition. I believe this to be the stone mentioned in Vol [Volume] 11 of the Pro. [Proceedings] S. of A.S. [of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland] as an ancient fort. The use of it [Margin] ? lower stone of a saddle quern as given locally, for tanning hides is more probable. It is not a font! About 1/2 m. [mile] further on at Skail about 70 ft. [feet] E [East] [Continued on page 34]
gb0551ms-36-8-34 [Page] 34 [Continued from page 33] of the road in a clumb of birches on Adam Mackay’s croft is the excavated chamber [Margin] Unnoted. of a cairn. The cairn which has been cir: :cular has been almost entirely removed and has been about 66 ft. [feet] in diameter. The length of the chamber which lies NE and SW. [North East and South West] has been about 15 ft. [feet] but the E [East] end is not defined It has been divided into two at about 8 ft. [feet] from the S.W [South West] end by two large slabs projecting from either side 2’.10” into the interior and standing about 2’.6” in height from the ground level & about 2’ apart. They are not exactly op: :posite each other, that on the N. [North] being about 6” W. [West] of the one on the other side. The W. [West] com: :partment of the chamber is about 8 ft. [feet] broad and is formed of five large slabs set on end the highest 5’.8” above ground and 3’.6” across at broadest tapering to a point, the other slabs are about 4’.6” high. The form of the chamber is polygonal; the space between the upright stones, where filled, is neatly built with stones laid horizontally. Of the E [East] division of the chamber only one large stone 4’.6” high and 3’.7” across remains standing on the N. [North] the slab on the opposite side has fallen. There is no sign of the passage into chamber. I was assisted in measuring the chamber by the [Continued on page 35]
gb0551ms-36-8-35 [Page] 35 [Continued from page 34] crofter’s daughter, a nice little girl of 12, who afterwards conducted me to the river to get to the broch at Inslampie on the other side. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 53. Quite half a mile off was a shepherd’s cottage where someone lived who could bring the boat across to our side. I was told to whistle! but though I rammed my fingers into my mouth I could produce nothing to carry nearly the requisite distance. My guide then suggested that her brother working with the rest of the family in a field near by should be got to whistle. He however knew that the occupants of the cottage were in the hills cutting peats so he waded the river & brought the boat across. The broch stands on a projecting bank 70’ to 80’ above the Naver & is protected on either flank by a deep ravine It is a complete ruin. Neither the entrance nor any of the chambers are discernible. The thickness of the wall is 13 ft. [feet] and the diameter of the interior 29 ft. [feet]. On the E. [East] side the wall is visible in the interior to a height of 4 ft. [feet] Returning to the road where lay my bicycle I crossed into a birch wood & throwing my -self on a bank beside a rivulet eat my frugal lunch – a slice of cold mutton & a little cheese. The wood anemones were growing in great [Continued on page 36]
gb0551ms-36-8-36 [Page] 36 [Continued from page 35] profusion all around and here and there patches of primroses were flourishing about the mossy roots of the birch trees. A few hundred yards down the road I met a worthy who assured me that the chamber of the cairn was the red [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 23. priests church! The grave & stone of the Sagairt Ruadh is as described. My next object [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 22. was Cladh Rifagil. It is on a knoll near the lodge but none of the stones visible bore any artificial markings. Earlier I visited Cladh Langdale with the same result. A mile or so further on brought me to the croft below Dun Kealmie on the Carnachaidh burn. The crofter’s son a nice youth in service at the Rifagil lodge, came & helped me to measure. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 52. The broch is an absolute ruin and has been greatly pillaged for stones, so much so that I had great difficulty in finding even the outlines of the wall. Neither the entrance nor any feature remain visible. It occupies a splendid situation on the end of a spur of Craig Kealmie about 100 ft. [feet] above the burn to which the slope is very steep. The walls are 14 ft [feet] thick, Int. [Interior] diameter about (?) 30 ft [feet] (Though I took this measurement I have not noted it) On the haugh to the N. [North] is a remarkable [Continued on page 37]
gb0551ms-36-8-37 [Page] 37 [Continued from page 36] group of cairns, hut circles &c. About 50 yds [yards] [Margin] Unnoted. from the burn N. [North] of the broch is an irregular cairn about 44 ft. [feet] in length from E. to W. [East to West]. It appears to be formed of 3 separate cairns in different alignment [Sketch inserted here.] The first portion at the W. [West] end 7’ long, the middle portion 21 ft. [feet] long and the last 16’ long. The last is less well defined & near its junction with the middle portion are some very large boulders. About 40 yds [yards] W. [West] of the last cairn is a hut circle of usual type with a dia. [diameter] of about 34 ft. [feet]. Close beside it to the N. [North] is a cairn of a very definite S shape about 3 ft. [feet] in height & measuring along its outline 111 ft. [feet]. Some distance to the N. [North] of this are two large contiguous circles which have been hollowed out to a lower level than the adjacent ground. They are bounded on both sides by great heaps of stone and are divided by the remains of a stone wall 6 ft [feet] across. The South circle is 42 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] from N. to S. [North to South] and measures 17’ feet across the entrance at the S. [South]. The N. [North] circle is 38’ in dia. [diameter] & 22 ft. [feet] across the entrance. The bank or cairn on the W. [West] side of the S. [South] circle is 23 ft. [feet] across & about 6 ft [feet] high at highest point & of less extent & lower on the E [East] side while the E [East] bank of the N. [North] circle [Continued on page 38]
gb0551ms-36-8-38 [Page] 38 [Continued from page 37] [Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-38a [Page] 38 [Continued from page 37] is conversely higher than the W. [West] bank. About 50 yds [yards] N. [North] are two long banks of stone run: :ning E and W. [East and West] the E. [East]most of the two of regular ser: :pentine form, the Westmost of a curved form. The former is about 2 ft. [feet] high on the S. [South] side but considerably higher on the N. [North] where the ground is lower. It is about 54 ft. [feet] long and 10 ft. [feet] broad at the head. Towards the N.E. [North East] side of the haugh are 4 or 5 more of these constructions with their general direction E and W. [East and West] Some are straighter than others. The haugh has been under cultivation but the ridges carefully pass to either side of these cairns. There are numerous other cairns on the haugh and across the road also circles. Some of the cairns are about 25 ft. [feet] in length, 10 to 15 ft. [feet] broad and 3 to 4 ft. [feet] high. Towards the S.E. [South East] is a cairn of about 4’ high, circular with a diameter of 36 ft. [feet]. Being very tired after this examination I gladly accepted the invitation of the crofter’s wife to have some milk. A plate of delicious scones & oatcakes lay on the table for the children’s tea while the daughter was attending to the porridge. Here I learned of a passage under: :ground said to be in the hills 6 miles [Continued on page 39]
gb0551ms-36-8-39 [Page] 39 [Continued from page 38] to the W. [West] discovered by the boys while herding sheep. I expect it is the cave marked on the 6” O.S. [Ordnance Survey] maps. A mile further on [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 50. I reached Dun Carnachaidh perched on a cliff on the E [East] slope of Cnoc Carnachaidh. It is a complete ruin. Int. [Internal] diameter 30 ft. [feet]. Thickness of walls 15 ft. [feet]. Doorway not recognisable. The road down the strath is very beautiful the banks of the river clothed with birch woods. I got to the inn at Bettyhill about 6.30. It has passed under new management & been added to and is most comfortable. There are no other visitors. 23rd May. A day of much needed rest but a horrible lot of correspondence to attend to. This is a most beautiful place with coast scenery quite as fine as any in Cornwall. 24th May. A lovely day. Called on Mr. Mackay the schoolmaster who kindly accompanied us to Fiscary to see the cairns. Here there is a stretch of moorland lying about 1 1/2 m. [miles] E [East] of Bettyhill Hotel and stretching towards the hamlet of Swordly. Over it lie small [Margin] O.S [Ordnance Survey] [-–] cairns in great numbers - some of them rather larger than the usual run – with length nearly twice their breadth – two of them measured [Continued on page 40]
gb0551ms-36-8-40 [Page] 40 [Continued from page 39] gave dimensions 28’. x 14’ and 21’ x 11’. They have their longest axes in no particular direction A ridge runs along the upper part of the moor from E to W. [East to West] and crowning three eminences are four large cairns. No. 1, the [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9 (Brough) most Easterly is about 68’ ft. [feet] in diameter, circular, and 15’.6” high to the apex. which a small cairn has been built up recently. The cairn does not appear to have been properly excavated but the stones in several places have been pulled out probably in attempts to discover the entrance or chambers or in pursuit of rabbits. The latter seems a frequent cause of the destruction of cairns The 2nd and 3rd cairns lie several hundred yards to the West, overlooking the Bay of Swordly to which the ground slopes sharply down. The Southmost of the two cairns does not appear to have been excavated though the stones have been a good deal pulled about. It is circular with a diameter of about 52 ft. [feet] and is about 10 ft [feet] high to the top of the modern cairn on its apex. It presents a peculiar feature. At the N. [North] end is a broad platform of stones which has been described as a neck con: necting the two cairns it stops short however at a distance of 7 ft. [feet] from the smaller [Continued on page 41]
gb0551ms-36-8-41 [Page] 41 [Continued from page 40] cairn. At a distance of 25 ft. [feet] from the base of the cairn almost entirely around is traceable a line of stones which appears to be the outer edge of the platform continued all around but overgrown with turf. To establish this, however, excavation is necessary though the ring of stones is regular at 25 ft. [feet] & quite distinct. The 3rd cairn adjoining has been excavated and is now a total wreck. The chamber is half filled up with debris and only two or three of the partition stones remain the other upright stones having disappeared. Its diameter has been about 46 ft. [feet] and its height 4 to 5 ft. [feet] The fourth cairn still further to the W. [West] measures 28’ to 30’ in diameter and is about 6 ft. [feet] high. There are no visible signs of chambers and the cairn has been a good deal pulled about. In addition to the cairns on Fiscary there are the remains of hut circles. one measured near the E. [East] cairn has a diameter of 29’ and an entrance to the S. [South] Another on the N. [North] side of the road from Swordly to Farr near the 1st house in the latter [Margin] Unnoted. township known as the Rath an Cruithal is of the usual type measures 32 ft. [feet] in Int. [Interior] [Continued on page 42]
gb0551ms-36-8-42 [Page] 42 [Continued from page 41] diameter and has an entrance to the S. [South] A “tunnel” is said to have been discovered many years ago in the field adjoining. About 1 m. [mile] N. [North] of the S. [South] end of Farr, on a promontory joined to the mainland by a narrow neck and very precipitous on either flank though accessible from the sea or N.E. [North East] extremity are the scanty [Margin] OS. [Ordnance Survey] 49. S. [Site] remains of the castle of Borve. Nothing but part of the foundations remain which show a range of rectangular building with walls about 7 ft. [feet] thick. The N.W. [North West] wall has for the most part gone but the main building which is on the W. [West] side of the promontory has been narrow, and its plan is indefinite. The top of the promontory slopes down towards the seaward end where there are several hollows, circular & rectangular, probably foundations of structures of some kind. Below them a ditch crosses the lower end of the headland. The neck connecting it with the mainland is traversed by a high rampart and a ditch on the landward side and there are the remains of a bank still near the land on the N.W. [North West] side at the top of the cliff further protecting the approach. On the high heathy ground here the little [Continued on page 43]
gb0551ms-36-8-43 [Page] 43 [Continued from page 42] primula Scotica flourishes and is in full bloom. There are also quantities of cowslips in flower beside the crofts. Returning through Clerkhill we made enquiries regarding the broch of which I had a note as having existed there but could find no trace of it. A little to the Southward however on a croft which bore the significant name of the Dun we found the remains. The broch had stood at the extreme W. [West] end of a low rocky ridge but all that remained of it were a few large stones in situ which had formed part of the foundation on the top of the rock. The buildings of the croft occupied part of the site and the crofter told us that he had built a new shed on a sort of round building in which he had found a lot of grain. (For position see 6” map.) We could find no trace of a stone circle on Crag an Soiller. It was 3. o’clock before I got home to lunch. Our meal over we put up our rods & got ferried over the Naver with the primary object of inspecting the remains on Bal Margait. This is a gravelly plateau elevated some 20’ above the Naver on its E. [East] bank and about 1/4 mile in length & breadth. Its surface [Continued on page 44]
gb0551ms-36-8-44 [Page] 44 [Continued from page 43] is devoid of vegetation and is covered with remains of constructions of various kinds. Cairns abound - mostly small and circular. Towards the S.W. [South West] end is a round cairn 22 ft. [feet] in dia: :meter and about 4’.6” in height. About 100 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of it is another measuring about 30 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] but only now about 2 ft. [feet] high the top of it having seemingly been removed. There are numerous hut circles presenting no unusual features. From some of them all the material which formed the banks has been removed leaving the stones alone visible and showing two parallel rows of large boulders with an interspace of about 3 ft. [feet] There is a circle on the E. [East] side towards the S. [South] end which is apparently formed in similar fashion to a hut circle but there is no apparent entrance to it. Its diameter is about 24 ft. [feet]. On the summit of the cliff whose face is covered with sand immediately to the N. [North] of the burn which flows down towards the S. [South] end of the plateau is situated the [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7. Sandy Dun. It is a broch whose walls are probably erect for a considerable height but the interior is largely filled up with blown sand. The entrance is towards the S.W. [South West]. The Interior diameter is 29 ft. [feet] – the thickness of the [Continued on page 45]
gb0551ms-36-8-45 [Page] 45 [Continued from page 44] walls 12 ft. [feet]. About the top of the wall now visible in the interior is a projecting ledge about 10” wide on the upper surface. The slabs which form it are an integral part of the structure and the wall is thicker below them than above. The outer wall is much ruined and no other details are obtainable. A number of small cairns lie on the top of the cliff immediately to the W. [West] of the broch. Work completed I fished for a little and got one small sea trout. A native called after dinner with a fragment of a beaker which had been obtained from a cist discovered by the ploughshare. The fragment was too small to enable me to have any idea of the form and the decoration was merely formed by dia: :gonal lines in bands alternating in direction with a slight ridge or moulding between. Later Mr. Mackay, the schoolmaster, arrived with the Book of the Mackay’s for me to see & stayed until 10.30! 25 May. A falling glass and a most unpromising morning – Cold & stormy. Writing my notes up after breakfast we got a trap round at 11.0 and set out for Skelpick. [Margin] Of Brough 49a S. [Site] not a vestige remains. Deeming it advisable to take the most distant objects first, we left the trap at Skelpick Lodge where the driving road ceased & set out for [Continued on page 46]
gb0551ms-36-8-46 [Page] 46 [Continued from page 45] Dunviden about 3 miles up the river. Jocelyn ac: :companied me as far as Loch Manaar. It was bitterly cold and blowing a gale. Dunviden is an [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 51 absolute ruin and the faces of the walls are not easily obtained. The internal diameter has been about 30 ft. [feet]: the thickness of the walls about 16 ft. [feet] and the breadth of the entrance passage at the only point where obtainable which was near the interior, 3’.5”. Almost the only walling visible is a small portion two courses in height on the N. [North] side. none is visible in the interior. The remains of a crofter settlement in the immediate neighbour: :hood probably accounts for the dilapidated state of the building. It occupies an extremely strong position on the summit of a knoll that rises for a height of 70 or 80 ft. [feet] above the haugh which stretches from its base to the Naver. Its sides are very steep except to the E. [East] where the approach from the high ground behind is more accessible. Considerable pains have been taken to fortify this. From either side of the entrance a rampart runs [Continued on page 47]
gb0551ms-36-8-47 [Page] 47 [Continued from page 46] S. [South] for a distance of about 45 ft. [feet] and swings round on either side to meet the broch where the banks are steepest. The most accessible approach being from the E. [East] the defences are strongest in that direction. Here the rampart comparatively low on the inside has a steep scarp about 12 ft. [feet] high & about 16 ft. [feet] distant from its base is another rampart only two or three feet high and stony. About 120 yds [yards] E. [East of the broch on the top of a slight eminence [Margin] Unnoted. there are the remains of a stone circle. The stones are irregularly placed and have probably been moved in some cases. In the centre of a cup shaped depression, where there has probably been a cairn from the small round stones which form its sides, stands a large block of white granite rock 4’.6” high. 3’ across and about 10” thick. One stone stands to the N. [North] and another to the S. [South] of this block 12’ apart and other 5 stand irregularly to the W. [West] of a line between them. Four of the stones are set with their broad faces at right angles to what was probably the line of the circumference but as they stand they do not form the arc of a circle. Near Loch Ma Naire at its S. [South] end are some small [Continued on page 48]
gb0551ms-36-8-48 [Page] 48 [Continued from page 47] round cairns. About 1 m. [mile] up the Auchanellan burn a short distance N. [North] of its right bank between the 300 and 400 ft. [feet] contour lines are several hut circles of the usual type with en: :trances to the S. [South] and around them a large number of small round cairns. About 2 1/2 miles up the Skelpick burn on a low ridge which lies between the high ground [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 19. on the W. [West] and the burn, are numerous small cairns of 12 or 14 ft. [feet] diameter. One near the burn at the N.E. [North East] end of the ridge measures 21 ft. [feet] in length by 8 ft. [feet] in breadth and is about 2 ft. [feet] high. Its longest axis lies almost N. & S. [North & South] At the N. [North] end of this ridge is a small area of haugh land on the W. [West] or hill side of which are the ruins of an ancient enclosing wall of large boulders. About 100 yds [yards] back from the burn and at the very end of the ridge on the top of a sandy hillock is a well-defined oval enclosure – measuring internally 12’ x 6’ It is surrounded by a bank of stones about 2 ft. [feet] in thickness and has apparently a narrow entrance about 1 1/2 ft. [feet] wide to the S. [South] & there is a similar break in the wall opposite to the N. [North] The longest axis lies N.E. & S.W. [North East & South West]. About 50 ft [feet] to the N.E. [North East] is a small circular [Continued on page 49]
gb0551ms-36-8-49 [Page] 49 [Continued from page 48] enclosure with an internal diameter of about 7 ft. [feet] surrounded by a rude walling of stones similar to the above and the usual hut circles the Entrance is to the North. About 100 ft. [feet] N.E. [North East] are the remains of another similar small oval enclosure surrounded with large boulders and set against the ancient en: :closing wall. Its Internal measurements are 9 ft. [feet] x 7 ft. [feet] The Entrance to the S. [South]. Abutting on its N.E. [North East] side is a small circular mound about 7 ft. [feet] in diameter walled all round with boulders to a height of 2 ft. [feet] The top is covered with turf and slightly concave. At the N.E. [North East] was a rabbit hole between two stones and into this I was able to insert my arm and found immediately behind the stones a space apparently of considerable size: such as a rabbit would never make at the entrance to its hole. The soil which I scraped out with my knife was loose and perfectly free from stones. I could not detect any entrance. From the top, I was able to drive in my surveyor’s pin up to the head without encountering any resistance. Close to the edge [Continued on page 50]
gb0551ms-36-8-50 [Page] 50 [Continued from page 49] of the burn just beyond the N.E. [North East] end of the ridge is another small oval enclosure with an interior measuring 12 ft. [feet] x 6ft. [feet] surrounded by banks about 8 ft. [feet] thick on base. The exterior about 1 ft. [foot] below the level around. This last may occupy the top of a natural hillock. The Glen of the Skelpick burn below this point is one of the wildest and loneliest places I have yet been in. The hills on either side converge and their sides are thickly studded with great white boulders between which the heather grows tall & rank. Walking is very difficult but rendered a little easier by an occasional sheep track. Being uncertain of my exact position I sought the crest of the high bank on the W. [West] & found myself exactly among the “tumuli” I was [Margin] No. 18 O.S. [Ordnance Survey] making for. They form a group of small cairns of the usual circular sort and among them I observed no hut circles or other objects of interest. They lay along the flat top of the moorland that slopes down to Skelpick about 1/2 m. [mile] away. Here I met Jocelyn who had spent the time in the shelter of a small plantation. We took a cursory look at the Skelpick broch which [Continued on page 51]
gb0551ms-36-8-51 [Page] 51 [Continued from page 50] I believe to be a horned cairn. 26th May 1909. A stormy wet morning so wrote notes &c. About 11.30 it began to clear so we set out. I went off to Torrisdale over Invernaver Bridge & then taking the track across the Sandy plateau on the W. [West] bank of the river and up over the cliffs beside the sandy dun. It was a boisterous walk and in the sandy region quite painful as the wind drove the sand into my face with the force of a gale & stung like whips. The pass over to Torrisdale is very picturesque & is sheltered to the S.W. [South West] by the high rocks. At Torrisdale Tongue Par. [Parish] I sought out the home of Dr. [Doctor] Hew Morrison and was most kindly received. Miss Morrison took me in hand to direct my steps. We first visited the two cup-marked boulders. These are situated on the rocky moorland about 3/4 m. [mile] S.W. [South West] of Torrisdale adjacent to the track that leads to Loch [--] The largest boulder that situ: :ated furthest W. [West] is about 8 ft. [feet] high & 14 ft. [feet] in length. On its S. [South] face chiefly on the flat and less abrupt faces of the stone are groups of cup marks of 2 to 3 ins. [inches] in diameter, the deepest about 1 1/2 ins. [inches] and a number of them now almost worn out. The extent of the groups did not appear to me very definite, though there seemed [Continued on page 52]
gb0551ms-36-8-52 [Page] 52 [Continued from page 51] to be two of about 12 cup marks each. About 10 ft [feet] E [East] is a smaller stone about 6 ft. [feet] long and 4 ft. [feet] high. On its N.W. [North West] face are about 26 small cup markings and indefinite traces of more. The Southern face is scored with deep lines crossing each other but in no evident design. The extreme E. [East] end of the stone is slightly concave and in its centre is an oval boss or projection measuring about 8” x 5” and 1 1/2“ deep, slightly undercut. Walking on to Skerray we interviewed Mr. Telford the farmer Tongue of Skerry Mains and learned that the mouth or entrance to the Earth house under his dwelling is about 15 ft [feet] distant from the N.E. [North East] window. He exposed it in April this (? last) year. The Lintel is about 3 ft. [feet] across. It is entirely covered over again. A short distance E [East] of the graveyard is a clay mound about 25 ft. [feet] high. being excavated on its N. [North] face. On the top of this is the Dun of Torrisdale. Its outline and character are indiscernible but the top of the mound is covered with debris for the most part overgrown with grass. From the size it is probably the scanty remains of a broch. Returning to Mr. Morrisons I was most hospitably entertained to tea & for the first time tasted crowdy, a sort of fresh skim -milk cheese, of which I have often heard. Miss [Continued on page 53]
gb0551ms-36-8-53 [Page] 53 [Continued from page 52] Morrison afterwards accompanied me to the top of Craig Braan to look for the remains of Dun Riaski but we failed to discover them. Dr. [Doctor] Hew Morrison will be able to give me particulars. I paid a short visit on my way back to Baile Margit. I noted the circle where no entrance is visible. It is 24 ft. [feet] int. dia. [interior diameter]. A thickening of the stony bank to the S [South] probably marks the spot where it was. I noted one or two flat heaps of stones, circular, evidently the remains of cairns with a diameter of from 50 to 60 ft. [feet]. These are situated near the middle of the S. [South] end. 27 May 1909. A stormy morning. Started in a trap at 10.15 for Skelpick. Proceeding to the Farr. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 49 so called “Brough” No. 49, to the E. [East] of the small plantation near the farm buildings I examined it most carefully and decided that it is a horned cairn. It occupies the crest of a ridge & is composed of large stones showing not a trace of building. It has been much dilapidated especially on the S.E. [South East] side from which great quantities of stones have at one time been re: :moved. There are various other signs of ex: :cavation but no structural details have been exposed. It is a circular cairn with a diameter of about 43 ft [feet] and is from 7’ - 8’ high. [Continued on page 54]
gb0551ms-36-8-54 [Page] 54 [Continued from page 53] from four points roughly corresponding with the cardinal points of the compass radiate “horns” in the shape of low cairns measuring at the N and W [North and West] 20 ft. [feet] across at base and at the S and E. [South and East] 18 ft. [feet]. They are about 2 ft. [feet] high and project at the N. [North] and W. [West] 20’ at the S. and E. [South and East] 26’ and 28’ respectively. The N. and W. [North and West] horns are 67’ apart at their points, the S. and E. [South and East] 55, while the W. and S. [West and South] are 77’ feet apart and the N. and E. [North and East] 71. There are no signs of a wall any where apparent at the base. [Margin] Unnoted. About 300 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the farm house of Skelpick are the remains of a very large circular cairn. The stones from it have in great measure been re: :moved. The diameter from N. to S. [North to South] & E. to W. [East to West] has been about 93 ft. [feet] The height is 6’ to 7’. There has been a chamber near the centre of the S. [South] half, at about 23 ft. [feet] from the circumference. It has been excava: :ted and ruined. It has probably been divided into two by partition slabs, 2’.6” high & 3 ft [feet] across which occur at 30 ft. [feet] from the outside. The chamber appears to have been about 17’ in length. One low upright stone remains in the inner division on the E. [East] side. About 100 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] of farm house are the remains of another large round cairn, which does not appear to have been excavated but [Continued on page 55]
gb0551ms-36-8-55 [Page] 55 [Continued from page 54] is much dilapidated. The diameter from N. to S. [North to South] is 59 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West] 54 ft. [feet]. The height about 5 ft. [feet] On the W. and S. [West and South] sides it has been much pulled about. On the right bank of the Skelpick burn directly to the W. [West] of the N. [North] end of the long cairn there is exposed a bed of iron slag (?) 9 ins. [inches] thick and 8” below the present surface. Some 4” - 5” beneath it is a bed of charcoal 2 1/2“ thick. The slag is intermixed with portions of burnt wood. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 17. The long cairn on the E. [East] side of the burn is much as described. At the S. [South] end of the passage is a small separately roofed chamber about 6 ft. [feet] in length, 4 ft. [feet] broad and 4’.3” high from which access is obtained to the 1st chamber through a portal 2’.7” wide & 3’.6” high from present level surmounted with a large triangular lintel nearly 10 ft. [feet] long & 2’.6” in greatest diameter. The first or N. [North] compartment is divided from the next by two upright stones about 3’.6” high, supporting a lintel about 9’ long, 14” thick & 3’.6” deep. The space between the division stones is 4 ft. [feet]. There is one large upright stone on the E [East] side but none remaining on the W. [West] The S. [South] chamber is formed of 6 large upright stones – is polygonal. The spaces between the uprights are filled with regular horizontal building. At the N. [North] end [Continued on page 56]
gb0551ms-36-8-56 [Page] 56 [Continued from page 55] [Photograph inserted with text on reverse side and transcribed on following page] - Broch an Allt an Dun Skelpick
gb0551ms-36-8-56a [Page] 56 [Continued from page 55] of the cairn are two projecting horns about 12 ft. [feet] across at their base and 22 ft. [feet] long. They project somewhat E. and W. [East and West] of the main direction of the cairn which is N. and S. [North and South]. From point to point of horns measures 66’. The length of the cairn is 200 ft. [feet] and its breadth at the S. [South] end 35 ft. [feet]. There is no sign of a retaining? wall around it visible. The S. [South] end has been in part removed. On the slope to the W. [West] lie a number of small cairns and a great number lie on the level at the top of the steep slope to the E. [East], about 100 ft. [feet] higher up. Towards the S. [South] end of this group [Margin] Unnoted and on a slight eminence stand a large circular cairn with a diameter of about 54 ft. [feet]. It is about 8 ft. [feet] high and though the stones have been pulled about here and there on the top it does not appear to have been excavated. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 16 About half a mile N. (E?) [North] [East?] occupying the summit of a rocky knoll, defended on the S. [South] by the Allt an Duin or Allt a’ Chaisteil, and towering 100 ft [feet] or so above the plain which reaches from its base to the river, are the ruins of a broch. The situa: :tion is most commanding. The building though much ruined if cleared of the debris which almost choke it up would be found to be still of a con: :siderable height. The walls are 16 ft. [feet] thick. The Internal diameter 28 ft. [feet]. A scarcement projecting [Continued on page 57]
gb0551ms-36-8-57 [Page] 57 [Continued from page 56] about 1’.6” is built against the wall all around the interior. The entrance is towards the N.W. [North West]. The passage for the first few feet from the exterior is ruined but about half way it is only 2 ft [feet] wide and curves slightly towards the S. [South] as it proceeds inwards About 3’ from the outside on the right side of the passage an upright stone is standing, probably one of the door jambs but in rear of it there is no sign of a guard chamber. In the Interior the wall is still in parts 6 to 8 ft. [feet] high above the accumulated rubbish and in parts 2 or 3 ft. [feet] higher than the top of the scarcement. Externally the facing stones have been to a great extent removed or have fallen, and towards the N. [North] where highest the wall is still 6 ft. [feet] above the debris and the rubble in the centre several feet higher. The ruination of the interior obscures any details of chambers or galleries. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15. About 120 below and almost half way between the broch and the Naver is a circular enclosure marked “Picts House” on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1’ scale. Its internal diameter is about 36 ft. [feet] The wall is about 8 ft. [feet] thick, built of large stones, show: :ing in the interior 2 courses of boulders laid hori: :zontally about 2 ft. [feet] high. The Entrance is from the S.E. [South East]. The walls are higher and more im: :portant than those of an ordinary hut circle [Continued on page 58]
gb0551ms-36-8-58 [Page] 58 [Continued from page 57] but an absence of debris either outside or in the interior shows that it is not a broch. It stands on a slight elevation. Within 50 ft. [feet] to the E. [East] is a hut circle of the ordinary type. At this point we met the trap sent back from Bettyhill to meet us. We were glad to get to it just as rain began to fall heavily. A little over a mile nearer Bettyhill we reached the famous cairns of Rhin: :avie They are fully described. Though [Margin] O. S. [Ordnance Survey] 11, 12, 13. (see p. page] 70) At Ach coillenborgie? described and treated as two cairns I think there is little doubt that the round cairn at the N. [North] end (No. 1) and the long cairn to the S. [South] of it have originally been one divided into two by the old road which now separates them. The long cairn does not rise much towards the N. [North] end nor does it show any considerable expansion or signs of chambers. No. 1 is about 54 ft. [feet] in length and 48 ft. [feet] in breadth, & about 12 ft. [feet] high, No. 2 about 100 ft. [feet] long. No. 1 has been excavated and is described. It is in a ruinous condition. The third cairn has been described by Dr. [Doctor] Anderson. The passage and outer chamber are now almost entirely filled with debris, the S. [South] chamber is still open & filled up with birch branches. The middle chamber still retaining its covering slab is all right. The arrangement of upright stones [Continued on page 59]
gb0551ms-36-8-59 [Page] 59 [Continued from page 58] stones at the N. [North] end is still in evidence. Dr. [Doctor] A. mentions six - there are really several more short standing stones and they appear to have really outlined the horns of the cairn. A few short standing stones can be observed pro: :truding from the sides of the cairn. Of the stone circle indicated to the N. [North] of the group I could see no trace. About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] on the E. [East] side of the road are the scanty remains of a broch. It is very [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10. much ruined and the elevation of the wall in any part is now trifling. Its Internal dia. [diameter] is about 28 ft. [feet]: thickness of wall 14 ft. [feet]. Entrance to the N. [North]. To the right of the passage & about 8 ft. [feet] distant from it the walls of a chamber have been exposed. There are the remains of various outbuildings around. The ruin is on a slight knoll between the base of the hill and the river. Getting home in time for tea we afterwards walked to Loch Mor about 1. [mile] away from the hotel and, although it blew half a gale I got a couple of good trout fishing from the bank. Bettyhill is a charming place to stay at and the hotel unpretentious & most comfortable. [Continued on page 60]
gb0551ms-36-8-60 [Page] 60 [Continued from page 59] 28 May. Packed & settled up & left Bettyhill on bicycle for Achnabourin & Acharagaraidh. The earth house at the first place is no longer accessible. I was referred to the shepherd, James Mackay who had been over 20 years on the ground, he in turn referred me to another individual with antiquarian leanings. This man working in a piece of marshy land about 1/4 N. [North] of the farm house pointed out to me an area of about 40 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter] in the centre which he described as a “druids’ temple” and said there was a paved way out to it from the edge of the wood to the N.E. [North East]. The place had been in the centre of a swamp and there were signs of some construction but what, it was impossible to say. About 150 yds [yards] E. [East] of the road near the centre of the birch wood between it and the river are the remains of a small circular building about 10 ft. [feet] in diameter with rude stone walling. To the S. [South] a few feet distant is a small round cairn and in front, where beneath the broken surface many large stones are visible, is said to have formerly existed an opening underground 18” to 2’ sq. [square]. Has this been a chambered cairn? About 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the road on the summit of a grassy knoll two boulders probably [Continued on page 61]
gb0551ms-36-8-61 [Page] 61 [Continued from page 60] mark the entrance to the earth house as a depression running S.E. [South East] for about 44 ft. [feet] and probably indicates its extent. There are said to have existed others here. On a hillock immediately E. [East] of the road and between the Wood and the farm house is a similar depression running N. & S. [North & South] about 54’ in length & nearly 9 ft. [feet] wide showing signs of stone building at either side. This is perhaps rather wide to have been one. It being now 12.30 and as I had trysted a keeper at Borgie Bridge at 1.0’ I had to postpone my further visit up Strath Naver & cross the water shed by the Tongue road. This road for bicyclists is absolutely impossible! Its gradients are very steep and its surface indescribably bad. At Borgie Bridge I found no keeper! My letter had not reached him & he had gone to Tongue. Leaving my bicycle at the stone, I got the assistance of a small Farr. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 55. boy to measure the site of the Borg. It is situated close to the road on the S. [South] side about 300 yds. [yards] E. [East] of Borgie Bridge. A gravel mound about 40 ft. [feet] high on the side towards the river situated on the edge of the bank in which the high ground terminates has been further strengthened in flank & rear by a deep ditch 24 feet across with a scarp 12 ft. [feet] [Continued on page 62]
gb0551ms-36-8-62 [Page] 62 [Continued from page 61] high and a counterscarp about half that height. The ditch is divided into two by a roadway across it from the S.E. [South East] 14 ft. [feet] wide. It is not carried out through the edge of the bank to the N. [North] at either side whose sur: :face is 5 or 6 ft. [feet] below the top of the mound. On the summit are slight remains of a circular build: :ing with a diameter over all of about 52 ft. [feet], the outline of which is not very definite. The diameter of the top of the knoll is about 62 ft. [feet]. [Margin] Unnoted About 2 m. [miles] S. [South] of Borgie Bridge and about 1/4 m. [mile] E [East] of the Borgie on the S. [South] end of the ridge at about 300’ elevation is a group of about a dozen small round cairns. In the vicinity are remains of old enclosures probably connected with crofters. [Margin] Unnoted About a mile further S. [South] on the W. [West] slope of the Druim Odhar and stretching up from the low ground near the Borgie to about 150 ft. [feet] is an: :other group comprising from 80 to 100 cairns of usual small type. On the lower part of the slope about 300 yds. [yards] distant from the river and directly E [East] of an island is a well marked hut circle with the door post on the left side of the entrance standing. It is a pointed stone 3 ft. [feet] high & 2’.10” across the base. It stands with its broad face towards the passage & is 4 ft. [feet] distant from the face of the other side. The wall of the circle [Continued on page 63]
gb0551ms-36-8-63 [Page] 63 [Continued from page 62] is about 6 ft. [feet] thick and there is more debris of stones about than usual. The interior diameter appears to be about 30 ft. [feet] and what I take to be the ruins of an inner wall on the W. [West] suggests that at some time the size of the circle has been reduced. Being now within sight of the green patch of verdure which I was told was the site of the crofts of Cracknie where the [Margin] Cracknie Unnoted. Earth house is situated I determined to push on over the further 3 m. [miles] of desolate moor. It was a dreary afternoon. The clouds gathering on Ben Laoghal burst from time to time in heavy showers and made the walking over swampy peat bogs anything but easy. The constant pipe of golden plover that flitted along in front of me made the scene appear even more dreary. The mark on my map being wrongly placed I had the greatest difficulty in finding the earth house & just as I was leaving after half an hour‘s search I found it right on the top of a green hillock, the second from the N.W. [North West]. The entrance is through a hole about 2 ft. [feet] wide under a slab It is partly closed & a few flags lying outside show that it has originally been longer. I fixed the end of my tape line outside with [Continued on page 64]
gb0551ms-36-8-64 [Page] 64 [Continued from page 63] a pin and lighting my candle made my first entry into an earth house, In that lovely spot without a human being within miles & the cliffs of Ben Stomins towering up above it was somewhat eerie. The passage I found to be about 3 ft. [feet] wide and about 4’.6” to 4’.10” high when about 20 ft. [feet] from the entrance & in all 42 ft. [feet] long. It is carefully built on the sides and covered with flags overlapping each other. It slopes sharply downwards. At 32 ft. [feet] the width is reduced to 2 ft. [feet] by a rebate on the right side thereafter it gradually widens and curving round to the right ter: :minates in a chamber about 6 ft. [feet] across and 4’.4” high. The walls throughout are in perfect condition. Returning down the burn I found on some green hillocks a short distance below its junction with the Allt ach-nan Tot and about 300yds. [yards] W. [West] of that stream three hut circles of the usual type. Feeling very weary I made my way to the shepherd’s cottage at Dalness where I begged a glass of milk which was readily given me and thereafter trudging on to Borgie Bridge I remounted my bicycle and arrived in Tongue whither Jocelyn had proceeded me with the luggage, about 8.0. [Continued on page 65]
gb0551ms-36-8-65 [Page] 65 [Continued from page 64] 29 May 1909 Tongue Hotel. Being very tired I have employed myself all morning writing up notes, signing letters to Town Clerks of Royal Burghs &c. After luncheon Jocelyn & I walked to a loch about a mile off and fished for an hour or two but it was stormy & cold & we only got one trout each. This hotel is most comfortable and we are very well boarded at 9/- £0.9.0] a day each. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 2. 30 May 1909. Another stormy day. Walked down by Tongue Ferry in the morning In the afternoon called on Colonel Morrison the Duke’s factor at Tongue House. This is a quaint old Scotch mansion built towards the end of the 17th cent. [century]. It is a long low building of one storey with windows half set in the roof. Built into the wall of the dining room are three decorated pediments which probably surmounted the windows at one time before the roof was probably altered & the buttresses added. One pediment over the mantelpiece bears the Mackay arms (see Illus. [Illustrated] in Sutherland & Reay Country &c. p. [page] 61) between the letters D.M.R. A second bears the initials AMR and the third the two sets of initials in [Continued on page 66]
gb0551ms-36-8-66 [Page] 66 [Continued from page 65] a cypher between the date 1678 - which is probably the date of the erection of the house. On the skew-put on the E. [East] end of the N. [North] gable of the more modern house are cut the dates 1678 and 1750. In the wood to the E. [East] of the house on the top of knoll about 70 yds [yards] E. [East] of the gardener’s house are the remains apparently of a cairn the chamber of which is referred to in Pro. S. of A.S. [Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland] [Volume] 7 p. [page] 277. The earth house between Tongue Ho. [House] and Kirkiboll has long since disappeared. 31st May 1909. Set out before 10.0 for Tongue Ferry, & Melness - Jocelyn armed with a trowel to search for prehistoric pottery in the shell heap on the other side. The shell heap lies close to the grave yard. There is a great deposit of oyster and other shells. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 3. The Broch below Melness Ho. [House] called Dun Buidhe has entirely disappeared: the stones which formed its wall lie in a great heap at the foot of the field in which it stood. Of the cattlefold on Ard Skinid [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 17 nothing of any importance remains (if ever there was anything) and the tumuli above Melness Ho. [House] are two cairns of about 14 ft. [feet] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 12 dia. [diameter] some 150 ft. [feet] off the road. [Continued on page 67]
gb0551ms-36-8-67 [Page] 67 [Continued from page 66] The shell mounds yeilded not an atom of pottery. After luncheon I bicycled to see a hut circle noted on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] maps beyond Loch Laoghil Lodge. I found the spot where it was indicated half way between the lodge and the burn to the S. [South] of it but of the circle there is barely a trace. There are a number of ruined walls of enclosures in the vicinity but nowhere did I see any sign of the ancient grave yard. Tongue. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10. Returning I visited the cairn between Loch Craggie & Loch Laoghil. It is situated on the S. [South] side of the ridge separating the two lochs at its extreme E. [East] end and overlooking Loch Laoghil which lies about 50 ft. [feet] directly below it. It is circular with a diameter of about 50 ft. [feet]. The outline is definitely marked with large boulders (the largest over 2 ft. [feet] high) laid contiguously point upwards. The cairn is for the most part overgrown with heather but towards the centre a good many stones have been pulled out without however disclosing any structure which, if such exists, is probably deeper. The height of the cairn is about 6 ft. [feet]. Along the top of a bank which projects to the S.E. [South East] are 3 large boulders set in a row - the first 2 ft. [feet] from the cairn [Continued on page 68]
gb0551ms-36-8-68 [Page] 68 [Continued from page 67] the next 9 ft. [feet] and the next 16 ft. [feet] but it is very doubtful if these are in situ. Work over – I put up my rod and fished in Loch Craggie for an hour but it is much too shallow to fish from the bank. The road down from the watershed to near Loch Laoghil Lodge is the best I have found in Sutherland. 1st June 1909. Left Tongue at 7.0 a.m. to revisit Strath-naver. It is a fearsome journey in a motor laden with luggage as high as a corn stack behind and down most appalling gradients. I left the motor near Ach-na-bourin & walked up the strath to Achargary – a place whose name is different everytime it is spoken! [Margin] Unnoted Here on the S. [South] side of the Achargary burn about 20 yds [yards] from the top of the W. [West] bank of the Naver and 50 yds [yards] from the burn is a large circular cairn. The top of it has been removed so as to expose three slabs, apparently the end & sides of a chamber, somewhat to the N. [North] of the centre which does not appear to have been cleared out The dia. [diameter] of the cairn from N. to S. [North to South] is about 77 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West] about 70 ft. [feet]. Length of chamber from E. to W. [East to West] as far as exposed 7 ft. [feet] width about 5 ft. [feet]. One stone protrudes about 14” at the E [East] end and the upper portion of one is visible on [Continued on page 69]
gb0551ms-36-8-69 [Page] 69 [Continued from page 68] each side. That on the N. [North] side has been slightly displaced. The present height of the cairn is about 7 ft. [feet]. Between it and and the road of the W. [West] lie about half a dozen small cairns. At about 150 yds. [yards] and 200 yds. [yards] to the S. [South] respectively the direction of the shepherd’s house have apparently been two more similar cairns now almost entirely removed. To the W. [West] of the road about 150 ft. [feet] above it and some 100 yds [yards] S. [South] of the burn are the considerable remains of another cairn which has been pillaged to build a sheep stell. It appears to have had a diameter of about 54 ft. [feet]. Its present height is about 4 ft. [feet] on the E. [East] but on the W. [West] or upper side it is almost level with the ground. Scattered about in its vicinity are a few small cairns of 12’ to 14’ dia. [diameter]. About 100 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the burn & 70 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the road is a round cairn with dia. [diameter] about 26 ft. [feet] and 4 ft. [feet] high. About 70 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of it are the ruins of another beside a sheep stell. Near the centre of it has been exposed a cist. It is intact except for the stone at the S. [South] end which has been removed and lies adjacent. The cist is full of soil to within 14” of the covering slab which [Continued on page 70]
gb0551ms-36-8-70 [Page] 70 [Continued from page 69] is 3’.8” long. 3’ wide and 7” thick. The diameter of the cairn is about 45 ft [feet]: its height 5 ft. [feet]. About 30 ft [feet] N.W. [North West] are the remains of a similar cairn partially removed. A large thin slab protruding to the S. [South] of the remaining heap of stones probably marks the site of a cist. Height about 4 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter] of present cairn, which is probably about half the original, 24 ft. [feet]. About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Achargary burn is a group of small cairns extending from the road side to 80 or 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of it. [Margin] Unnoted Across the Naver about 1/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of the bridge over the Allt na Caisteal on the road to Skelpick is another group of a score or more cairns. [Margin] Are these the same as on p. [page] 58? Rhinovie The N. [North] cairn shows a single poly: :gonal chamber half filled with stones. It appears also to have been horned but as it has been so much pillaged probably for the old dykes which pass close by its N. [North] end the indications are not very definite. About 8’ to the E. [East] of the entrance to the passage, presumably in the centre is a large stone lying mostly on its edge exposed for a length of 5 ft. [feet] it is 2 ft. [feet] across & lies with its pointed end N.W. [North West]. About 25 ft. [feet] N.E. [North East] the head of another large stone protrudes. On the W. [West] side there is [Continued on page 71]
gb0551ms-36-8-71 [Page] 71 [Continued from page 70] more appearance of a horn of stones but no standing stones. The sides at the S [South] end of the so- -called round cairn and those of the 2nd long cairn are in alignment and I have no doubt they are parts of the same construction. The published sketch of the N. [North] end of the S. [South] Skelpick cairn gives quite an inaccurate impression of its features. (I took two photos of it.) The standing stones appear to have outlined the horns, not to have stood isolated. At the W. [West] there is a distinct horn in rear of the large stone and on the E. [East] an outline of standing stones exists on both sides of the horn, those to the outside being smaller. To the front there are 8 stones standing, 3 to W [West] of centre and 5 to E. [East]. Immediately to the W. [West] of the entrance a large stone lies with its point outwards. The position of the standing stones at the S. [South] end with relation to the cairn is more difficult of discernment. On the E. [East] they appear simply to follow the line of the outside of the cairn but towards the W. [West] there are two projecting slabs about 20 ft. [feet] in from the present termina: :tion which suggest an incurving end. [Continued on page 72]
gb0551ms-36-8-72 [Page] 72 [Continued from page 71] [2 photographs inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-72a [Page] 72 [Continued from page 71] At intervals, along the sides of both cairns, and especially on the W. [West] sides, standing stones protrude. This was a most lovely day and I greatly enjoyed my walk up the Strath to Acharagary, over the river to Skelpich & along through woods of freshly leaved birch trees, towards Rhinovie. On my way I made a slight detour to take a photo of the broch, that towered up from the haugh beside the Alt-an-duin. From Rhinovie I walked back to Inver: :naver bridge & back the other side of the river to where the Tongue Road leaves the Strath. Here the motor caught me up & I again crossed by the perilous route to Borgie Bridge & on till within four miles of Tongue. At Loch Crocach about 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of where the Skerry Road joins the Tongue road I walked N. [North] into the moor, following the direction of an old keeper, who called on me the night before last, for half a mile and on the shoulder of a hill below some steep rocks, I found a hut circle. It was of the usual pear shape, measuring 30’ x 32’. Ent. [Entrance] to S. [South]. It has been divided into chambers [Continued on page 73]
gb0551ms-36-8-73 [Page] 73 [Continued from page 72] by rude boulder walls, similar to those of the circle, about 2’.6” wide, running from the W. [West] side towards the centre & then toward the left side of the entrance. The space enclosed being again divided up. The entrance to the secondary Structure was from the N. [North] or back. The thickness of the outer walls 4’ to 5’. There are the remains of another circle about 100 yds [yards] S. [South] and about a dozen small cairns lie in the vicinity. Thence I walked on [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 4. to Rhitongue to see the broch but found it unrecognisable, only consisting of a confused mass of small stones In the evening, after tea, Jocelyn & I wandered down the road & crossing a burn on stepping stones made our [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1. way to Castle Varraich. It is indeed a poor structure and answers to Macgibbon & Ross’ description. The walls are 4’.6” thick. 2nd June: Another fine morning though a trifle cold. By appointment the Rev. [Reverend] Mr. Lundie, parish Minister, and a sportsman of the best type equally expert at saving a sinner or landing a salmon, met us at the Hotel [Continued on page 74]
gb0551ms-36-8-74 [Page] 74 [Continued from page 73 ] at 10.0 and we set out in a trap for Loch Hacoin. J. [Jocelyn] to fish & I to work. At the South end of the Loch, which is a about 1/4 m. [mile] in length, is a small islet within (?)50 yds [yards] of the shore [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7. on which are the ruins of a small rectangular building. The walls are built of thin, flat stones, without mortar and are 6’ to 7’ thick and re: :main upright to a height of 5’ to 6’. The building is oblong and measures internally 19’ x 22’. There are no indications of a door or windows nor signs of floor or vaulting. It covers the greater part of the islet, which is natural. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14. Directly opposite it to the S.E. [South East] on the top of the bank lies the large earth fast boulder on the flat upper surface of which are a number of cup and ring marks, placed irregularly over it. The marks, surrounded by a ring, number 11 and the total number of undoubted markings 34. Neither Mr. Lundie nor I could anywhere see the cup said to have a double ring round it and it cer: :tainly is not that shown on Mr. Horsburgh’s sketch of which I had a tracing. The best defined cup is 3” across x 1 1/4 “ deep and 7” across the ring. Eight of the markings are well defined the others less noticeable. The [Continued on page 75]
gb0551ms-36-8-75 [Page] 75 [Continued from page 74] figure in relief at the S [South] end much resembles the same thing on the Torrisdale stone, ex: :cept that it is not under-cut. It is roughly rectangular and measures 12” x 6”. Leaving the loch we walked over the moor, Westward till we struck the road to Kinloch, here on the W. [West] side of the road about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of the bridge over the Kinloch river, on the N. [North] edge of a gravel pit close to the road is a [Margin] Unnoted. large earthfast boulder 5 ft. [feet] in length as far as exposed and 3’.10” broad showing on its upper surface 18 cup marks of various depths the most distinct towards the N. [North] end of the stone being about 3” dia. [diameter] and 1” deep. The whole length of the stone is not visible but the markings do not seem to continue to the portion covered. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6. On a prominent rock which rises from the ridge dividing the Kinloch river from the Allt Ach an t-Srathain? at the upper end of the Kyle of Tongue, stand the ruins of Dun Mai, or Maigh. The situation is very strong. On the W. [West] the rock rises precipitously for 50 ft. [feet] or more and the E. [East] faces (? facing) the slope is abrupt. On the N. and S. [North and South] the approach along the ridge is easier and to defend these sides walls have been run [Continued on page 76]
gb0551ms-36-8-76 [Page] 76 [Continued from page 75] along the edge enclosing the more level areas immediately adjoining the broch. The entrance has been from the E. [East] through a passage about 16 ft. [feet] long, over which three or four of the covering flags still remain in situ. For the first 5 ft. [feet] the passage is 2’.3” wide at which distance there is a rebate in the wall and it expands to 3 ft. [feet]. The ruination is too great to allow it to be seen, without exca: :vation whether there is a guard chamber or not. The height of the passage from the ruins to the lintel on the inside is only 2 ft. [feet]. The broch is much ruined but does not appear to have been pillaged for stones. The interior is peculiar in not being circular the W. [West] side being considerably flattened and it has the appearance of having been re: :constructed. There is a chasm up the cliff on the W. [West] the upper part of which is built up and the outer wall of the broch is some feet back from the edge. It is possible that the original structure fell at this point being too near the cliff & the reconstructed building was placed farther back. The Int. dia. [Interior diameter] from N. to S. [North to South] is about 31 ft. [feet] and 27 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West]. The highest part of the wall visible above the ruins [Continued on page 77]
gb0551ms-36-8-77 [Page] 77 [Continued from page 76] in the interior is 8 ft. [feet] high and the greatest height to the exterior above several feet of debris is 7’.6” on the S.E. [South East]. On the N.W. [North West] side a chamber about 8 ft. [feet] long with rounded end and converging walls roofed with flags, has been partially exposed in the wall. The slab be: :neath which access is now obtained into it is about 3 ft. [feet] long and 15 ins. [inches] thick. Immediately to the E. [East] of the foregoing is another chamber 5 ft. [feet] long and 3 ft. [feet] wide built up at the end and half filled with stones. If the debris was cleared away a good deal of this broch would be found to be standing though not in good repair. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13. The “tumulus” indicated as near Kinloch Ho. [House] gave some difficulty to find. It lies about 1/2 m. [mile] N.W. [North West] of Kinloch Lodge on the S. [South] slope of the hill on which the broch stands. It is overgrown with turf through which a number of large stones pro: :trude. Five large slabs project upwards and seem as if they might form part of the sides of a chamber or chambers. From N. to S. [North to South] they are 17’ from each other where facing. The diameter of the cairn is about 30 ft. [feet] and its height, 2 to 3 ft. [feet]. A walk of about 1 mile S.E. [South East] brought us to [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9 Druim na - coup the traditionary (?) site of a great battle between the Mackays and the Sutherlands ending in the annihilation of the [Continued on page 78]
gb0551ms-36-8-78 [Page] 78 [Continued from page 77] latter. On the S.E. [South East] slope above the flow which lies between the moorland and the N.W. [North West] base of Ben Laoghail is a group of small round cairns of from 12 to 20 ft. [feet] or so diameter. They are not so thickly placed as in some other situations but ex: :tend for about 3/4 m. [mile]. One of them about halfway along the ridge about 20 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] and only a foot or two in height has had peat & stones removed from a portion of the top and there has been exposed a cist. The covering slab is 3 ft. [feet] broad and at least 3 ft. [feet] long, its exact length not being ascertainable. The tops of the single slabs of each side are visible and also of the slab at the E. [East] end which has apparently slipped inwards. The breadth of the cist between the sides is 2’.6”. The cairn is circular. The longest axis of the cist is N.E. and S.W. [North East and South West]. Towards the S.W. [South West] end of the ridge on which the cairns lie is a hut circle of the ordinary pear shaped type with an internal measurement across of 31 ft. [feet] the walls showing flattish slabs on the inside, about 4 ft. [feet] across. In the entrance which is to the S. [South] there has been erected a small hut of comparatively modern type a few feet square. Lying at the base of the majestic peak, which terminates Ben Laoghail to the N. [North] and [Continued on page 79]
gb0551ms-36-8-79 [Page] 79 [Continued from page 78] and set among the birchwoods, is the shepherd’s house of Cuniside. Here, near the S. [South] end of the field dyke on the W. [West] or outside, of it lies a cairn [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8. known as “Dhiarmid’s grave". It approximates in type to the S. shaped cairns and especially resembles one noted near Loch Coile na Damph (p. [page] 14) and another on the E. [East] bank of the Naver, between Syre and Dal-harrild. This cairn, which appears to be made of rather small stones. is overgrown with grass. It is 59’ in length along its central ridge. Its main axis lies N. and S. [North and South]. At the S. [South] end for the first 11’ it has an inclination from S.S.E. [South South East] and thereafter for the remaining 48 ft. [feet] as: :sumes a N. & S. [North & South] direction. At the point where the direction alters it is 11 ft. [feet] across. At about 19 ft. [feet] from the S. [South] end and 17 from the N. [North] it gradually increases in bulk till at the centre it is 14 ft. [feet] thick and 3’.3” high. The old shepherd who had been many years on the place told us that the earth house at Ribigil was situated in a park about 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of Ribigil farm house and was closed up many years ago. A mile or so from Cuniside I parted with Mr. Lundie who returned home while I walked on to Loch Hacoin & fished with Jocelyn for an hour till 5.30 when we [Continued on page 80]
gb0551ms-36-8-80 [Page] 80 [Continued from page 79] [Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-80a [Page] 80 [Continued from page 79] drove home. It was a cold day for fishing and all day she only caught 6. 3d. June 1909. J. [Jocelyn] left by the 7. o'clock motor for Laing & I wrote up notes &c. till I got away in the hired motor at 10.0. It was a dull day cold morning we stopped at Dun Maigh near Kinloch to let me obtain a measurement I had omitted then on we went along the W. [West] side of the Kyle and over the Mhoine with the clouds hanging low as they were, the dreariest tract of desolate heath I have seen. In a dull day peat stacks & peat hags full of black stagnant water give a note of desolation to a landscape. At Hope Ferry where now there is a bridge I saw a keeper and enquired about the ruins of a 'teampull' once said to exist here, but he knew nothing of them. Durness O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 4s About 1 m. [mile] W. [West] of Hope Ferry on the end of a rocky ridge that terminates near the N. [North] end of Loch Creagach are the remains of a broch. A ruined cottage stands partially on the founda: :tions and explains its dilapidation. It is much ruined and very little walling remains The interior diameter has been 26 ft. [feet] and the and the thickness of the walls 11 ft. [feet]. The Entrance to the N. [North] along the ridge. The guard chamber, visible through the roofing slabs, in part displaced, still [Continued on page 81]
gb0551ms-36-8-81 [Page] 81 [Continued from page 80] exists on the right of the entrance entering at 5 ft. [feet] in from the outside. It is 8 ft. [feet] long, & rounded at the end, 2 ft. [feet] 6” to 3 ft. [feet] wide and from present floor level to covering flags, 4’.3” high. About 24 ft. [feet] along the wall to the S.E. [South East] the top of another chamber filled with debris is visible. There are no details of the passage obtainable. Between the N [North] end of Loch Creagach & the road on the W [West] side and about 100 ft [feet] back from the loch is a hut circle of usual character, the length of the entrance passage into the interior being about 7 ft. [feet]. The farm manager at Eriboll farm tells me there are many circles and tumuli about the hills there. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 3. On a low projecting rock on the E. [East] bank of Loch Eriboll at the S. [South] end of the Camus an Dun about 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of Heilam Ferry are the remains of a fort or dun to the W. [West] of a fisherman’s cottage. It appears to have been an elliptical structure in outline, with an entrance to sea-ward on the point of the rock 5 ft. [feet] wide. The length of the structure over all appears to have been about 55 ft. [feet] its breadth 42’ about the centre but the indefinite outline of the N. [North] wall does not(?) allow this to be accurately obtained. The thickness of the walls at the entrance is [Continued on page 82]
gb0551ms-36-8-82 [Page] 82 [Continued from page 81] 14 ft. [feet] and on the S. [South] side near the centre 10 ft. [feet]. On the S. [South] side of the entrance the outside wall is 8 ft. [feet] high and for 43 ft. [feet] round the circumference in that direction it still remains several feet in height & beyond that it is overgrown with turf. It is built of large stones without mortar. At 4 ft. [feet] from the outside on the right of the passage a squared edged intake shows that there has been an entrance to a chamber or stair here. The interior on the S. [South] side is full of debris and there are suggestions of chambers in the thickness of the wall but nothing definite. A circular depression about 3’.6” across near the E. [East] end may be the site of a well. The edge of the rocks on the loch side is 22 ft. [feet] distant from the entrance and the approach appears to have been flanked with rubble mounds or walls on either side. The remains of steps leading to the shore are still visible. Eribol. About 200 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the farm steading in the middle of an arable field is a flagstone covering the entrance to the earth house. About 1 m. [mile] S.W. [South West] of Eribol farm & 150 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the road is a hut circle of ordinary type. The entrance to the earth house on the W. [West] side of Loch Eriboll on the top of a mound [Continued on page 83]
gb0551ms-36-8-83 [Page] 83 [Continued from page 82] to the S. [South] of the burn about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of Portmaneon pier is blocked by a large heavy stone which prevented ingress. As on the last occasion on which I visited Loch Eriboll it was cold, wet, and dreary in the extreme. On reaching Durness we turned down past the inn, now merely bare blackened walls, for 5 or 6 miles down the Lairg road to inspect three, so called “Broughs”. The furthest off (No 8) is [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8 situated on ridge between the Allt a’ Choruinn and the Kyle of Durness – about 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of the road and 170 ft. [feet] above it. It is about 1/4 m. [mile] due South of where the road crosses the burn. It is not a broch but a large circular cairn with a diameter of about 44 ft. [feet] and height of 7’. It has been dilapidated to some extent in the past to form a sheep fold which adjoins it but the chamber or cist has not been exposed. On the N. [North] side of the Allt a’ Choruinn about 400 yds. [yards] N. [North] of it and about 100 ft. [feet] above the [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7. road are the remains of another cairn with an external diameter of about 50 ft. [feet]. The whole of the centre to the extent of 14 ft. [feet] diameter has at some time been cleared out so as to leave walls all round 3 to 4 ft. [feet] high, forming [Continued on page 84]
gb0551ms-36-8-84 [Page] 84 [Continued from page 83] a shelter. The bottom is covered with large boulders and the sides show no signs of build: :ing, the outside appearance being exactly that of a cairn. All around the N. [North] half there is a trench about 10 ft. [feet] wide and 2 ft. [feet] deep, but this is not continued round the S. [South] half where the ground slopes rapidly away. 1 mile nearer Durness on the W. [West] side of the road is a shepherd’s cottage and the S. [South] end of [Margin] Unnoted which in a small enclosure are the remains of a large cairn with a diameter of about 50 ft. [feet]. It has for the greater part been removed and exposed is a cist. It is formed of a covering slab 4’.10” long x 3’.4” wide and 8” thick supported on three upright slabs and one fallen one at the S. [South] end. The longest axis is N. and S. [North and South]. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6. Another mile nearer Durness near where the road from Keoldale joins the main road on the W. [West] side are the remains of another cairn now almost entirely overgrown with turf. It seems to have been excavated. Its diameter is about 45 ft. [feet]. It was 5. o’clock before I reached Balnakeil where Mr. Elliot had kindly offered me ac: :commodation. It is a picturesque old [Continued on page 85]
gb0551ms-36-8-85 [Page] 85 [Continued from page 84] 18th century house formed of a main block & [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 2 two projecting wings terminating in crow stepped gables. The farm manager, Scott, and his wife live in the basement & housekeep when necessary. It looks out on a fine bay and has the ruins of the old church close beside it. The feeding is primitive but I quite enjoy it, (cold mutton & porridge as a substitute for dinner) and the manager & his wife most kind. Mr. Elliot himself lives at Scibberscross. 4th June, Balnakiel. A dreary morning - woke early suffering from rheumatism in my knee. My Journal being in arrear I stayed in till 11.30 writing up notes. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6a. It having cleared sufficiently I visited the Seanachaisteal on the Aodann Mhor a headland about 1 1/4 m. [miles] due N. [North] of Durness church. It is a rocky promon: :tory whose precipitous sides rise for a hundred feet or more above the sea. The actual summit which is grass grown and towards the landward end presenting a comparatively even surface measuring about 54’ x 37’ whence the slope to the end is rugged with detached masses of rock and crags, sheltering about them small level areas where grass and nettles luxuriate. The neck has been traversed by a high stony rampart with a trench on either [Continued on page 86]
gb0551ms-36-8-86 [Page] 86 [Continued from page 85] [Photograph inserted with text on reverse - transcribed on following page] - Balnakiel, Durness
gb0551ms-36-8-86a Duncan MacMorroch here lies low, Was ill to his friend, waur to his foe, True to his master in weird and wo. 1623".
gb0551ms-36-8-86a [Page] 86 [Continued from page 85] side about 40 ft. [feet] across. To the outside the rampart is about 8 ft. [feet] above the bottom of the ditch where highest on the W. [West] side & 6 ft. [feet] towards the interior and is 25 ft. [feet] wide at base. The entrance has been through the middle of the rampart. The remains down the slope to the E [East] are less distinct. There is a circular de: :pression on the inner side of the top of the rampart to the N. [North] of the entrance and there are similar depressions with signs of low enclosing walls about the summit. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1. The old church of Durness lies about 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the house of Balnakiel. In an arched recess to the left of the doorway lies a slab, 6’.6” in length by 2’.8” in breadth. A compartment at the E. [East] end contains a representation of a hunter drawing a bow at a stag which the artist through the exigencies of space has placed in a vertical position and beneath the letters D.M. MC The slab also bears a representation of the skull and crossbones and the inscription, Donald Makmorchor hier lyis low vas il to his friend var to his fo True to his maister in veird and vo 1623. Above is a tablet within a moulded border bearing the initials D.Mc KNRM and in four quarters 1st. a hand, 2. a ship, 3. a stags [Continued on page 87]
gb0551ms-36-8-87 [Page] 87 [Continued from page 86] head and 4th. a fish and date 1619 (see Sutherland & Reay Country) The church is as described except that the space between the arches of the N. [North] window has been built up not left solid. Length of main building 40’ width 16’. length of wing 25 ft. [feet]. In the middle of the church lies the font. It is circular with four half round equidistant projections 3 1/2 “ across and 1” deep carried from top to base. Width over all 1’.10”. Width of Interior 1’.5 1/2 “. Depth 9”. The inscription over the doorway is given correctly in MacGibbon & Ross. In the afternoon I called on the Rev. [Reverend] Adam Gunn & the ‘keeper. The latter informed me that there are remains of a building high up on a shoulder of Beinn Spionnaidh and also on the N. [North] side of Meall Meadhonach. His information is very vague & he is not certain if they are round or rectangular, before visiting them I must make further enquiries from the shepherd. Work over I fished till 8.0 on Loch Croisaphuill. The trout were feeding greedily on natural flies and swarming on the top of the water but they would not look at mine on any account & I only caught one small one. At 8.30 I returned to a frugal meal of Cold mutton & porridge! [Continued on page 88]
gb0551ms-36-8-88 [Page] 88 [Continued from page 87] [Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-88a [Page] 88 [Continued from Page 87] 5th June 1909. As the mail gig was expected to call for me at 6.40 I breakfasted about 6.15! but tho' [though] all ready the post never arrived till 7.20 giving us an anxious interval as there seemed no other means of escape from Durness, the hotel being in ruins from fire & there being no traps except perhaps the blacksmith's, for hire. The gig bore one other passenger & with my my luggage & H.M. Mail there was no room for anyone else. It is a rough trap for a long journey but the driver is a character and the time passed pleasantly enough. Occasional stops at shepherds' cottages & at Rhiconich, followed by an odour of whisky showed that the 'post' was a not unwelcomed visitor. It was a glorious morning and as the road wound past lakes fringed with beech-trees and under the shadow of great mountains bare of any vegetation near the summit and covered with boulders standing high through the heather on their flanks or perched on the skyline of their lower ridges I greatly enjoyed it. At Laxford Bridge about 11.0 I left the gig & found a motor from Scourie awaiting me. At Badnabay about 300 yds. N by W [North by West] of the cottage and within 50 ft. [feet] of the road to Scourie [Continued on page 89]
gb0551ms-36-8-89 [Page] 89 [Continued from page 88] on lowlying marshy ground are a number [Margin] Unnoted. of standing stones which have formed the sides of a chamber in a circular cairn. The cairn has been entirely removed but its outline is distinctly visible and it has had a diameter of about 40 ft. [feet]. The chamber has been bipartite, the inner portion being 10’.4” long from N. to S. [North to South] by 8’.9” wide & polygonal. It is divided from the outer portion by two slabs set on edge 1’.6” thick. 3’ and 2’.4” long and about 2 ft. [feet] 7” apart the stone on the E [East] not exactly opposite the other. Of the outer division only 3 stones remain, two at entrance and one on the W. [West] side. It has been about 4’ long and about 5’.10” wide. The entrance has been from the S. [South] where the two outer stones of the passage apparently remain in situ 2 ft. [feet] apart and 9’ distant from the chamber. Of the inner portion of the chamber 7 stones remain in position, the highest of which above ground level is 3’.8” high, 2’.9” across at greatest breadth and 13” thick. The soil in which they are set is peaty. It is a beautiful drive to Scourie past a number of lochs & I reached there about 12.0. Luncheon over as soon as the tide permitted which was not till after 3.30 [Continued on page 90]
gb0551ms-36-8-90 [Page] 90 [Continued from page 89] [Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-90a [Page] 90 [Continued from page 89] in a sailing boat with two mariners I made a pleasant voyage to Handa island a mile or two away to inspect an old graveyard. The graveyard lies above a sandy bay on the S. [South] side of the island and though there are a number of stones protruding from the turf none have any visible marks of interest on them. Towards the upper part of the graveyard a space about 24’ x 12’ whereon are no tombstones and slightly depressed may be the site of a chapel. The N. [North] side of Handa is bounded by huge cliffs 3 or 400 ft. [feet] high where sea birds in countess thousands nest or lay their eggs on the flat ledges. It was a wonderful sight to see the colonies of puffins & razorbills packed as closely as they could wedge and on any unusual disturbance to watch endless heads protrude from recesses like human heads from the windows in an old town when the soldiers pass. This inn at Scourie is comfortable & very clean. Four English fishers are here, one a lady. [Margin - Sketch inserted here] 6th June 1909. Scourie Inn. Walked three miles to Badcall to Dr. [Doctor] Henderson’s church. A small congregation, 15 souls in all, and that on a day when there was the excitement of instrumental music for the first time. [Continued on page 91]
gb0551ms-36-8-91 [Page] 91 [Continued from page 90] I lunched with Dr. [Doctor] and Mrs. Henderson and got directions to visit his supposed site of a broch opposite Duartbeg. It was a glorious day and a more beautiful bay than that of Badcall studded with green islands, I never saw. The mountains all around were so distinctive, each stands out from its fellow in such a remarkable way, while over miles of smiling ocean I could see mistily outlined the mountains of the Lewis. I searched up & down rocks and headlands for the broch but found nothing resembling one only the foundation of an oval structure which I feel sure was that of a crofter’s hut. It lies on the hill whose projecting arm forms the N. [North] side of the entrance to Loch na Coile, about the 100’ contour line. Internally it measures 33’ x 12 1/2’ with walls 4’ thick and entrance to N.E. [North East]. There are three or four small cairns about in the neighbourhood but I am inclined to think they are merely stones gathered off a croft. On my homeward way about 1 m. [mile] due N. [North] of the Manse of Eddrachillis at an elevation of about 300 ft. [feet] and about 3 - 400 yds [yards] N. [North] of the public road on the top of a rock against an outcropping portion of which it is built, is a cairn. The roof of the chamber has evidently fallen in and the interior has been pulled [Continued on page 92]
gb0551ms-36-8-92 [Page] 92 [Continued from page 91] about a little. The exact measurements of the chamber are not obtainable. Two large upright stones, the highest of which is about 3 ft. [feet] high, stand at the N. [North] end 3’.4” apart with their faces at divergent angles. 2’ distant S. [South] from the W. [West] stone is another, facing [Margin] Note I was told by [--] Morrison keeper here that there is or was a large cairn about 1 m. [mile] from Rhiconich, there are also said to be remains of a building on an island on Loch Carn-nan-head but as no reliable person knew its whereabouts or its main features I considered as it was a loch regularly visited, it could not justify a day’s delay. N.E. [North East] and opposite it, 6’.6” away a fourth stone stands facing almost at rt. [right] angles to the direction of the face of the stone opposite. The length of the chamber from the centre of the space between the 2 stones at the N. [North] to that between the other two stones at the S. [South] is 7’. The hollow to the S. [South] suggests a greater length to the chamber but there are no slabs observ: :able. The diameter of the cairn is about 40 ft. [feet] and the two upright stones at the N. [North] are 20’ distant from the outside. At the N. [North] the cairn is still about 6 ft’ [feet] high. At the S. [South] it is set against a rock. It is called (see Dr. [Doctor] Henderson’s letter) 7th June 1909 Left Scourie by motor ac: :companied by Mr McIver, Factor & Farmer for the Dun at Kylesku. This ruin stands towards the end of a rocky promontory or islet, connected with the shore by a causeway about 70 ft. [feet] long, 10’ wide & 2 high formed of boulders. It is only separated from the main: :land at high tides. The rock projects into [Continued on page 93]
gb0551ms-36-8-93 [Page] 93 [Continued from page 92] Loch Carnbawn near its S. [South] end for about 100 yds. [yards]. The structure on the end of it is circular with an internal dia. [diameter] of 28’.6” or thereabout and a thickness of wall of 12’ on the E [East] and on the N.E. [North East] where it has been deemed desirable to cover an approach between two rocks it widens to 14’ to 15’. The height of the walls to the outside is obscured by debris but inside where highest on S. [South] it is 7’ high & except towards N. [North] several feet in height all round. The entrance has been to the S.E. [South East] and is 3 ft. [feet] wide at the only point observable between the two lowest stones on either side, the outside, otherwise it is in ruins. There are no signs of chambers in the thickness of the walls nor any traces of galleries. These features of the broch structure are absent. The edge of the rock on which the dun stands on the landward side of it about 20 ft. [feet] distant appears to have been strengthened with a wall. Halfway between the “broch” and Kylestrome Lodge on a slight rocky eminence stands a cairn apparently untouched. Its dia. [diameter] from E. to W. [East to West] is 35’ and from N. to S. [North to South] 25’. It is built against a rock to the S. [South]. Height about 5 ft. [feet]. It has been covered with heather now burned off. [Continued on page 94]
gb0551ms-36-8-94 [Page] 94 [Continued from page 93] When I crossed the ferry to Kylesku inn the clouds were covering the hill tops. It was not welcome news to learn that the only conveyance had gone off to Inchnadamph & would not be available for Drumbeg for hours, but as I don’t allow myself to be stopped I eat my lunch, pulled on my “Burbury” & set off on my 10 mile tramp in the rain. About four miles by road from Kylesku on the S. [South] side of Loch Cairnbawn, just beyond the W. [West] end of the wood that stretches along the shore from Torgawn and about 20 ft. [feet] above high water mark, is a small cairn with one large stone about 2 ft. [feet] long, 18” thick and 17” above the ground, set in the middle of it. The whole diameter is about 7 ft. [feet] and it more resembles a ring of stones round a centre one than a cairn. This is called “Oscar’s grave” and is said to mark the burial place of a son of the king of Sweden. Some 3/4 m. [mile] further on the road crosses the Gleann Ardbhair and leaving the highway I plunged down among wet heather & birch trees to find my way to the Dun at the head of Loch Ardvair. It was a rough wet walk & under pleasanter conditions most enjoyable as the birch woods were delicious along the side of the turbulent little stream and the wildness of the scene perfect. About 3/4 mile [Continued on page 95]
gb0551ms-36-8-95 [Page] 95 [Continued from page 94] above the loch I passed through a fertile little haugh fringed in with birch woods, there are the remains of several little circular huts, not unlike those I found up the Skelpich burn. Have they been sheilings? One towards the E [East] end of the haugh had an Int. [Interior] dia. [diameter] of about 5 ft. [feet]. Another was somewhat larger. They also are set on low hillocks. About 80 yds. [yards] further on is another an oval of 18’ x 6’. It rained and while the heather was soaking underfoot, the birch branches as I pushed through, showered their accumulated rain drops on me from above. I was glad to escape from the glen & crossing a rough park, to see the Dun before me at the edge of Loch Ardbhair. It stands on an isolated rock about [--] ft. [feet] from the mainland to which it is connected by a rough “roadway” of boulders now almost severed in the middle. It is only approachable at low tide (when by good luck I reached it) and at high water there is little space between the edge of the rock & the base of the building. It is circular with an internal diameter of 24 ft. [feet] and walls 10’.6” thick near the base. The entrance passage is to the S. [South] and is only 2 ft. [feet] wide in the interior, (the exterior not measurable & remains to height of 3’.6” on left). Of the outside walls only one or two of the lowest courses of the building remain visible in places and the rest is concealed by [Continued on page 96]
gb0551ms-36-8-96 [Page] 96 [Continued from page 95] ruins. The interior is very free of debris and the wall remains to a height of 7’.4”. There are no signs of chambers in the wall nor of galleries, the building is poorer than that of a broch, the stones not so carefully selected and laid, and the numerous interstices are packed with poor small angular frag: :ments. At first glance it lacks the character of a broch. I got back across the road just in time before the tide turned for looking backward a short time after I had left it was under water for many feet of its length. Across the bay nearly opposite the dun and just to the S.E. [South East] of the sheep fanks is situated an ancient graveyard. It is so covered with small stones as to suggest at first that it is the site of a “clachan” but closer inspection shows that the graves have each been outlined and covered with smallish stones probably to prevent their desecration by wild animals. Is this not a survival of the fashion of cairn burial? No symbols or letters were observable on any of the stones. The graveyard has been at one time enclosed & roughly measures 78’ x 51’. It was now 6 o’clock & I had to find my way to the road, uncharted, and reach Drumbeg for the night, 5 or 6 miles off. I crawled under a [Continued on page 97]
gb0551ms-36-8-97 [Page] 97 [Continued from page 96] under the leaves of an old birch tree overhanging a burn & seated on its bent stem eat the remains of my lunch which I had brought from Scourie and being refreshed soon found a track that showed the wear of human feet & following it round the hill side was delighted to find the road much sooner than I expected. On through the rain I trudged reaching Drumbeg about 7.30. expecting to find numerous fishermen and a table d’hôte dinner. A small temperance hotel with a farm attached and no visitors was what I found. The good landlady, Mrs. Mackenzie, while getting dinner ready produced a pair of dry knickers and stockings as my luggage still tarried at Kylesku. The fishing here does not seem to be any better than that of Scourie, Kylesku, or other places but the hotel is modest, comfortable and inaccessible. 8th June 1909 Drumbeg. Wrote my journal as soon as I had had breakfast & had the dog-cart round at 10.30 to start. It was a day like yesterday, misty & wet. We drove first to Oldany & with the permission of Mr. Simpson the shooting tenant, my driver young Mackenzie, procured the boat and [Continued on page 98]
gb0551ms-36-8-98 [Page] 98 [Continued from page 97] rowed me over to Oldany island to examine an ancient burial ground where he said one grave was marked with a peculiar stone like a basin with letters cut on it. This at once suggested to me the font, so arrived at the island I struck away inland to where my map showed the graveyard to be. My map was wrong and the mistake added much to my labours. Through the centre of the island there runs a vale or “flow”. and on the W. [West] side of that, rather nearer the N. [North] end than the centre, and on the top of a low spur of the hill is the graveyard. At the back of it against the hill are the ruins of a rude structure outlined with great slabs of rock set on end, (the largest 3’ high - 3’ broad and 1’ thick.) It is roughly rectangular & lies almost N. and S. [North and South] measuring internally about 12’ x 10’ with an entrance to the E. [East]. Attached to it is a smaller building about 13’ long x 8’ wide with a circular building probably an oven in the N.E. [North East] corner about 3 ft. [feet] high & 5 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter]. The graves here have all been outlined with flat stones & some more placed on top of them. As the building lies N. & S. [North & South] it has probably been only a croft, but why in the graveyard. I was nearly two hours away from the boat but failed [Continued on page 99]
gb0551ms-36-8-99 [Page] 99 [Continued from page 98] to find the “font”. Young Mackenzie has, however, received a shilling, full directions for measurement & my address & has promised to supply me with details. It is reported locally that a yachting party once carried off the stone but when they reached Stoer head it had left the yacht & flown home to Oldany. A drive of several miles brought us to Clash: :nessie where on the W. [West] side of the bay are the remains of a dun. They lie on a prominent flat topped rock whose green surface makes it more conspicuous which rears its head abruptly about 30 ft. [feet] up. On either side it is cut off by deep chasms up which the waves dash, and it is precipitous sea-wards. The summit has been covered by an irregular elliptical structure following to some extent the outline of the rock, meas: :uring over all about 36’ x 26’. Only the foundations remain. The entrance has been to the landward end. Telegraphing for a trap to meet me from Lochinver at 5.00 at Stoer Smithy & being refreshed by a tumbler of milk at the Post office, I mounted again & drove miles on to Culkein. Here at the N. [North] end of the bay [Continued on page 100]
gb0551ms-36-8-100 [Page] 100 [Continued from page 99] of Culkein has been a fortress of great stength. The promontory is divided into two portions by a chasm bridged over by a neck of rock some 3 - 4ft. [feet] long, and about 5 ft. [feet] deep and not more than 18” broad, a dangerous looking passage. The outward portion to which this bridge leads rises abruptly from the shelving rocks below to a height of about 50 ft. [feet]. Its surface is about 50’ long x 20’ broad. At the west or landward end for a distance of about 20 ft. [feet] there are considerable remains of building which above the cliff to the N. [North] is still visible for 3 or 4 ft. [feet] thereafter there are only signs of a wall running along the N. [North] side. About 40 ft. [feet] back from the bridge the neck of the promontory has been traversed by a wall of great strength about 7’ thick faced outwardly with huge blocks of stone - one on left of entrance being 3’ high 2’.10” across base & 2’ thick. The Entrance has been at the S [South] end of the wall through a passage 8 ft. [feet] long and apparently 3’.6” wide. The W. [West] side is completely ruined. The area enclosed within the wall is roughly oval measuring about 40 ft. [feet] x 37 ft [feet]. Back to Stoer Smithy. Here while awaiting the trap for Loch Inver I met Mr. MacIvor [Continued on page 101]
gb0551ms-36-8-101 [Page] 101 [Continued from page 100] the schoolmaster with whom I had a long talk and who took me to his house & gave me a cup of tea. Bless him! My lunch had been only 2 eggs, some lunch biscuits, & a little bread & butter! He showed me a fine tanged & barbed flint arrow head found on the moor near which had been quite recently used by the crofters who found it as a charm against diseases of their cattle. They dipped it in water and sprinkled the water over the cow. He has promised to send it to the museum. Feeling so much refreshed I could not resist examining the ruins of the broch at Clach Toll as I passed & saving a long journey back tomorrow. To return to Oldany island. Towards the S. [South] end of the flow on the W. [West] side may be observed the ruins or outline of boulders of small oval structures 5’ or 6’ x 4’. On the E. [East] end of the knoll on which is the cemetery are the remains of a structure represented by two courses of boulders with Int. [Interior] measurements of 11’ x 7’. There are two entrances viz to N.W. & S.E. [North West & South East]. Another near by is circular with dia. [diameter] of 6’.) It stands at the edge of the flat ledges of rock that fringe the shore at the S. [South] end of [Continued on page 102]
gb0551ms-36-8-102 [Page] 102 [Continued from page 101] [Margin] ? the bay of Stoer. Its position is not a very strong one to the landward side and its outworks on that account are somewhat exceptional. About 100 yds. [yards] distant are the remains of a massive wall much ruined crossing the uncultivated land to the E. [East]. The land to the S. [South] being all cultivated the outworks in that direction have been demolished. At 40 ft. [feet] distant from the broch is another wall built of great stones 2’ to 3’ ft. [feet] high & very massive which leads from either side of the entrance and evidently swung round to enflank the building, on the S. [South] the details are still evident. At the turning it enclosed a bastion or mound of stone and earth, about (?) 8’ across lined with another wall on the inside of it. The thickness of the outer wall is 6’ ft [feet] and the distance between the stone uprights of the gateway which is opposite the entrance is 6’. The broch itself is in fairly good preservation except on the seaward side where it has been for a short distance almost demolished. The interior is very full of debris and the greatest height of wall showing above it is only about 3 ft. [feet]. On the outside the wall [Continued on page 103]
gb0551ms-36-8-103 [Page] 103 [Continued from page 102] is in places 6’ to 7’ high and the top of the interior wall is 3’ to 4’ above it. The thickness of the wall at its highest level is 12 ft. [feet] and as the ruins block the passage in the interior it was not possible to obtain that measurement at base. The interior diameter is 32’. The entrance is to the (?) E. [East]. It is covered by a large triangular stone, as at Dornadilla, 4’.6” long, 3’.10” high and 12” thick. At the outside it is 3’ wide & about 3’.6” high. At 4’ from the exterior are door jambs on either side beyond which the passage sud: :denly widens to 3’.10” and gradually expands inwards to a width of 4’.2” opposite the entrances to the chambers which are reached 3’ in rear of the door jambs. There are chambers on either side facing each other the entrances to which are about 2’.5” wide &, at present, only 2’ high. Except for a short portion in the centre the roof of the passage is entirely covered with flags. The chamber on the right of the entrance extends inwards following the curve of the wall for 12 ft. [feet] and at the highest point of its overlapping roof is 6’ from present floor level. - Crawling in over the rough stones on hands & knees [Continued on page 104]
gb0551ms-36-8-104 [Page] 104 [Continued from page 103] grasping a lighted candle, a note book & prostrate with a pencil between my teeth was none too pleasant a task – nor were the great stones hanging down through the gap in the passage roof that a touch might dislodge pleasant objects to gaze at long! The chamber on the left I did not enter. It is small and low but a hole in the back suggests a connection with something beyond. Directly opposite the entrance the top of the stairway is visible and the stair itself probably exists for 12’ or 14’ down but is covered with debris to within 3 ft. [feet] of the roof. It apparently enters from the wall in the interior to the left of the entrance. The Masonry of the broch is good. It is built of sandstone which has a good horizontal cleavage in bed. There are no remains whatever of the Dun at the N. [North] end of the bay. There appeared to be two or three small tumuli in the cultivated ground to the S.E. [South East] but I omitted to look where the map indicates them. I must ask Mr. McIvor the school: :master to do this. It was 7 o’clock before I started off, very tired, for Lochinver [Continued on page 105]
gb0551ms-36-8-105 [Page] 105 [Continued from page 104] and was pleased to reach a comfortable hotel and also it refreshed my eyes to see again garden flowers, peonies & tulips from my bedroom window. What a change from the comfortable fishing inns to a large hotel with a waiter and takers’ scones to breakfast! 9th June. I was too mentally tired to rest last night and had a bad night so was thankful to employ myself till 12.0 writing up my notes. It is still wet and cold. I set out at 12.0 to reach the site of the chapel near Feadain. It is said to lie about 25 ft. [feet] back from the loch near an old rowan tree but a heap of stones structureless and featureless is all that remains. The grave yard lies on a level patch, kept uncultivated, near the house & in front of it. At 3.0 I left by motor for Inch-na-damph over an awful road. At one point we got bogged, the result of a road rolling. Inch-na-damph. 10 June. Fourteen fishers here some of them very nice. It is bitterly cold & they are getting little sport. I did not sleep well as I do not seem to have [Continued on page 106]
gb0551ms-36-8-106 [Page] 106 [Continued from page 105] [Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-106a [Page] 106 [Continued from page 105] quite got over my hard day on Tuesday. After my arrival yesterday I called on Mr. Mackay, farmer, at Kirkton of Assynt, who had sent me information. He took me to see the burial vault of the Macleods of Assynt in the grave: :yard but though an old building it contains nothing of interest except, perhaps McLeods! In the haugh along side the graveyard is [Margin] There is a slight depression all round inside the mound probably caused by the removal of the soil for its formation. an oval enclosure surrounded by a bank about 2 ft. [feet] - 3’ high and 25 ft. [feet] broad at base; the interior of which measures 134’ x 86’. There appear to be two entrances to the N. and E. [North and East] respectively. It is said to have been the place where the chief of the McLeods slept surrounded by his followers in time of danger but it is on an absolutely undefended position! The castle of Ardvreck is exactly as described The W. [West] wall has entirely disappeared and the rest of the building is much ruined. The S. [South] side of Calda House which is locally known as the White Ho, [House] has gone entirely. The outside measurements are (See notes) On the right bank of the Fraligal Burn about 100 ft [feet] above and [--] from Inchnadamph Hotel on the summit of a slight rocky ridge is a cairn. It is considerably dilapidated and [Continued on page 107]
gb0551ms-36-8-107 [Page] 107 [Continued from page 106] its original outline can only be conjectured but it appears to have been circular with a diameter of about 50 ft. [feet]. It is still 6 to 7 feet in height. Several large flat stones are exposed lying unevenly about the top but there is no sign of the chamber or cist having been opened. As the cairns on Ben Garve turned out to be only small surveyors’ cairns and evidently of no account I did not visit them so had leisure to fish a little in the Traligill burn where I caught a few small trout but my zest for fishing has suffered from the pursuit of ancient monuments. The rock here is limestone and the burn has cut its way through deep gorges and comes over some fine falls. The Dryas Octopetala is in full flower over the rocks; I have seen it at Bettyhill, Durness and here & there by the roadside. The globe flowers are coming out in the meadows and “the wild marsh marygolds flame like fire” as I have never seen them elsewhere in Scotland. In visiting the ruins of Calda this morning I discovered a brown owl asleep at the level of my head & could not risist taking his photo at close quarters, the last tenant of the old house. [Continued on page 108]
gb0551ms-36-8-108 [Page] 108 [Continued from page 107] [Photo inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-108a [Page] 108 [Continued from page 107] 11 June 1909. Left Inchnadamph on foot, some muddle having been made about the motor, but secured a trap returning after I had gone a Stronechrubie mile or two. I turned aside at Stronechrubie to see what was described to me as a grave marked by a standing stone but though I searched all the hillocks between the road and the Loanan where the grave was said to be I could find no stone raised by the hand of man. Loch Awe I drove on to Loch Awe. Here immediately W. [West] of the South end of the loch at an elevation of about 200 ft. [feet] above it and just above an old enclosure studded with heaps of stones which do not appear to be of a sepulchral character, is a cairn. It is circular or rather slightly oval with a diameter of 63 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South] and 70 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West] but as the ground slopes away sharply to the E. [East] the extra length of the diameter may be due to the fall of the stones. On the top, 15 ft. [feet] from the N. [North] edge is a depression running S. [South] for about 20 ft. [feet] and 10’ across at greatest width; and there is another hollow towards the E. [East]. Neither of these show signs of recent excavation. There are some large slabs lying about on the top of the cairn but there is no sign of wither chamber or cist [Continued on page 109]
gb0551ms-36-8-109 [Page] 109 [Continued from page 108] exposed. The cairn is still 7’ to 8’ high. Lyne. On the top of a knoll just to the S. [South] of the road bridge over the Ledbeg River and about 50 ft. [feet] E [East] of the road are the remains of a large circular cairn much dilapidated and in great part re: :moved. Three of the large upright blocks which have formed the sides and end of the chamber remain in situ and a smaller stone protrudes between 2 of the larger ones at the N.W. [North West]. The two largest stones measure 4’ across the base are 17” thick and 3’ to 4’ high. The dia. [diameter] of the cairn has been about 36’. The end stone of the chamber is about 23’ from the S. [South] edge. The side stones which are slightly divergent are 6 ft. [feet] apart and the centre point between their outer edges 6 ft. [feet] back from the stone in the centre of the N. [North] end. Cam Loch. About 1/2 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] of the most S. [South] Easterly arm of Càm Loch and on the low lying ground between the high road and the Ledmore river is a large circular cairn with a diameter of 60 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South] and 54 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West]. At 21 ft. [feet] from the N. [North] edge the top of a large slab standing upright facing N. and S. [North and South] is visible 4 ft. [feet] across but there is no chamber or cist exposed. The cairn [Continued on page 110]
gb0551ms-36-8-110 [Page] 110 [Continued from page 109] at highest is about 6 ft. [feet] high. It has been much pulled about on the top. The motor with Donald, whom I found an interested assistant, picked me up near Lyne Bridge. Loch Borrolan. No. 1 About 1/4 m. [mile] from the N.W. [North West] end of Loch Borrolan between the road and the loch at the landward end of a point which projects into the latter is a circular cairn totally demolished on the E. [East] side. It has had a diameter of about 60 ft. [feet]. At 19’ in from the E. [East] side are two large slabs facing each other 4’.10” apart and 7’ further W. [West] are two low partition stones of a chamber with their ends facing each other 2’.6” apart 7’ E. [East] of the partition slabs two slabs just visible above the ground probably mark the E. [East] end of the chamber. The greatest height of the remaining portion of the cairn is 7 ft. [feet]. Loch Borrolan No II [2]. About 1/2 m. [mile] N.W. [North West] of Aultnacealgach Hotel on the slope of the hill about 100 ft. [feet] above the Loch is a cairn which has been very completely excavated. It has a diameter of 44’. 16 ft. [feet] in from the edge on W.N.W. [West North West] and E.S.E. [East South East] along which the major axis lies, is the edge of chamber, about 10 ft. [feet] long 6’.3” broad at centre. It is polygonal formed by six large slabs & the interspaces filled with building except between [Continued on page 111]
gb0551ms-36-8-111 [Page] 111 [Continued from page 110] the two large stones at the E.S.E. [East South East] where the space is filled up with round boulders and earth, and in the NW [North West] corner where there is a recess 4’.6” in length, 2’.6” deep roofed with overlapping stones. Its outer edge is marked off by a double line of flat stones partially superimposed about 6” or 8” in breadth. There are no signs of paving The greatest height from floor of chamber to top of cairn is 6’.6”. The greatest height of the cairn from the exterior is 6’ to 7’. L. [Loch] Borrolan No. III [3]. About 400 yds. [yards] N.N.W. [North North West] of Altnacealgach Hotel on the side of the hill and about (?) 100 ft. [feet] above the loch is a circular cairn with a diameter of about 50 ft. [feet] and height about 5’ to 6’. There is an irregular depression on the top and some large stones have been displaced but no chamber or cist has been revealed. It has been broken into for a short distance on the E. [East] side. Cnoc a’ Chaoruinn (This is in Ross-shire) About 1/2 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] from the point where the road from Ben More Lodge joins the road to Lairg on the S.E. [South East] slope of the Cnoc a’ Chaoruinn about 50 ft. [feet] above the road & 100 yds. [yards] back from it are the standing stones of a megalithic chamber. The cairn has been entirely removed but has had a diameter of about 50 ft. [feet]. The main axis of the chamber has been N. and S. [North and South]. [Continued on page 112]
gb0551ms-36-8-112 [Page] 112 [Continued from page 111] It has been divided into two by low partition stones which appear to have been about 2 ft. [feet] apart. The N. [North] portion has 5 stones of its wall standing and is 10’ in length to the partition and 11’ broad. Of the outer portion there are three stones standing and there is a gap on the W [West] where one has probably been. On the S. [South] side of the partition stones lies a great block which has apparently formed a lintel 11’ long, 4’ broad and 15” thick. The highest stone of the chamber is 5 ft. feet] high above the ground 4’.6” across and 1’ thick. The N. [North] end is 16’ in from the mark of the edge of the cairn. A considerable amount of debris covers the floor. It was a long rough motor ride on down Strath Oykell to Lairg and very cold. I was very pleased to reach The Sutherland Arms about 5 o’clock and join Jocelyn and Mary again. 12th June. Engaged till 1 o’clock writing up my notes and with official correspondence. In the afternoon rowed Jocelyn & Mary up the loch for nearly three miles. A lovely day. 13th June. A glorious warm day. Attended to letters in the morning and in the afternoon made ourselves comfortable in the shade of the birch wood among the primroses below Lairg Lodge. The midges bit us badly. [Continued on page 113]
gb0551ms-36-8-113 [Page] 113 [Continued from page 112] Lairg Par. [Parish] The Ord. 14 June 1909 Another splendid day. Walked with J. [Jocelyn] and Mrs Noel Hill to the Ord or Cnoc na Uird a hill about a mile to the S.W. [South West] of Lairg across the Shin. I started with the cairn situated about 80 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the summit. It is an immense mass of stones, sub oval in outline with its longest axis N. and S. [North and South]. From the point at which the stones rise abruptly its dia. [diameter] from N. to S. [North to South] is about 77’ and from E to W. [East to West] about 91’. Like the cairn at Fiscary it appears to stand upon a base which extends about 20’ out beyond the edge of the pile. The outline of this is very distinct over the greater part of the periphery. It is approximately circular except at the S. [South] where it appears to run to a point coming from the W. and E.’ward [West and Eastward] of the point there seems to a concavity in the outline but it is too indefinite to make an assertion about. For a space of 13 ft. [feet] across and 12 ft. [feet] in towards the cairn there is an absence of stones of the base or outline. The edge of the base is well defined with large stones of about 1 ft. [foot] elevation. It is not absolutely level. On the W. [West] side in the first 15 ft. [feet] it rises 24” thereafter it rises 12 ft. [feet] in 33 ft. [feet] on the E. [East] side 2’.6” for 16 ft. [feet] & thereafter 11’.9” in 28 ft. [feet]. The diameter over all is N. to S. [North to South] 128’. E. to W. [East to West] 120’ [Continued on page 114]
gb0551ms-36-8-114 [Page] 114 [Continued from page 113] The height is about 14 ft. [feet]. It has been pulled about a good deal and excavation has been made at various points but neither cist nor chamber are exposed. Along the top from E to W. [East to West] a depression runs inward for 39 ft. [feet] dis: :closing some large boulders. It occupies a conspicuous position. On the very summit of the hill at an elevation of some 619’ over sea level are the standing stones of the chamber of a demolished cairn. The main axis lies about E. and W. [East and West]. The chamber appears to have been bipartite (?), with the most im: :portant enclosure at the W. [West]. This portion now represented by 4 stones 3 of which are upright, 1 on the E. [East], 1 on the W. [West], 1 on the N. [North] and a large stone about 5’ long, 2’.8” broad and 12” thick lying on its back towards the N.W. [North West]. Its dimen: :sions have been about 8 ft. [feet] by 6 ft. [feet] and it has been of the usual polygonal form. At the [--] end the two partition stones are low, somewhat pointed, and 2 ft. [feet] apart. They have given access to a second chamber 5 ft. [feet] long and probably of about the same breadth. One stone only remains on the S.W. [South West] side about 20” long & protruding about 8” from the ground and at the [--] end are two other partition stones [Continued on page 115]
gb0551ms-36-8-115 [Page] 115 [Continued from page 114] 1’.9” apart with their broad axis at rt. [right] angles to the line of the passage. Two feet further are another pair of stones similarly set 2 ft. [feet] apart which probably formed part of the passage. The highest stone in the large chamber is about 2 ft. [feet] high, 1’.7” across and 1’ thick. The diameter of the cairn from N.E. to S.W. [North East to South West] has been about 46 ft. [feet]. Along the line of the chamber it is not obtainable. The distance from the line of the circumference to the back stone of the large chamber is about 26 ft. [feet]. About 100 ft. [feet] S.S.W. [South South West] of the summit is a well built circular cairn of about 28’ dia [diameter] and 3’.6” high. The circumference all round is carefully defined with large contiguous stones set point upwards and with flat faces outwards. There is a slight depression about 10” deep 7’ long x 4’.6” broad running N. & S. [North & South] on the top. About 200 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] of the summit is a large hut circle of the usual pear shaped form but of larger dimensions, measuring across from S.E. to N.W. [South East to North West] about 38’ and from N.E. to S.W. [North East to South West] 52’. There has been an entrance to the S.W. [South West] about 4’.6” across with a chamber on its right bounding it for 12 ft. [feet] and on the opposite side the wall extends outward for a [Continued on page 116]
gb0551ms-36-8-116 [Page] 116 [Continued from page 115] similar distance. About 50 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] of the last is a cairn of about 27 ft. [feet] diameter which seems to have been excavated. It has been badly pillaged and is over: :grown with turf. About 30 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the hut circle is a cairn which has been considerably dilapidated but no signs of a chamber or cist are revealed. It has a diameter of about 34 ft. [feet] and is about 3 ft. [feet] high. About 15 ft. [feet] to the E. [East] of it is another, circular, [Margin] Cairn ? with a diameter of 22 ft. [feet], its outline carefully marked with large boulders. About 750 ft. [feet] S.E. [South East] of the summit just inside the wall of an old enclosure is a large cairn covered with grass and the remains of burnt heather. It is some 50 ft. [feet] in diameter and 6 to 7 ft. [feet] high. Within 20’ of the S. [South] of it is a small cairn about 15’ from N. to S. [North to South] by 10’ E. to W. [East to West] & 2 ft. [feet] high partially opened by rabbits. About 60 ft. [feet] S. [South] another about 18 ft. [feet] x 10 ft. [feet] and 2 ft. [feet] high. About 1/4 m. [mile] S.S.E. [South South East] from the summit on a slight ridge is a circular enclosure with an internal diameter of 43 ft. [feet] surrounded [Continued on page 117]
gb0551ms-36-8-117 [Page] 117 [Continued from page 116] by a wall of turf and boulders, now only about 18” high, 7ft. [feet] across. Beyond the wall is a berm 19’ wide and an enclosing ditch 21 ft. [feet] across and about 6 ft. [feet] deep. The ditch is continuous except towards the S.S.W. [South South West] on which side there has been the entrance which has passed between two walls, now traceable only from the outer edge of the berm diverging from 9 ft. [feet] apart to 13 ft. [feet] at their outer extremities. The thickness not ascertainable. The wall of the inner enclosure is of the same character as those of the ordinary hut circles. [Margin] An old turf dyke has crossed over the construction but is comparatively modern. About 50 yds. [yards] N. [North] are the remains of a hut circle of ordinary type, about 30’ Int. dia. [Interior diameter]. About 40. ft. [feet] S.E. [South East] of it a small round cairn of some 16 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter]. About 100 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the fort is a large group of cairns varying from 10 to 22 ft. [feet] in diameter and from 18” to 3’ high, the majority some 16’ to 18’ dia. [diameter]. There are from 30 to 40 cairns in the group. Among them appear several hut circles. One towards the N.W. [North West] is faintly discernible and measures about 26’ int. dia. [interior diameter] and at the S.E. [South East] end is a well preserved specimen 37 ft. [feet] int. dia. [interior diameter] 6 ft. [feet] across walls. Ent. [Entrance] to S.E. [South East]. The inner [Continued on page 118]
gb0551ms-36-8-118 [Page] 118 [Continued from page 117] [3 sketches with text inserted, transcribed on following page] [1] Hut Circle (simple type). The Ord. Lairg. [2] Hut circle on The Ord. Lairg. [3] Hut circle on moor to E. [East] of Naver No. 25. [width] 20’.
gb0551ms-36-8-118a [Page] 118 [Continued from page 117] line of the wall is well marked in places with pointed stones set on end. The wall at either side of the entrance expands to 14 ft. [feet] in thickness so as to contain on either side a small semicircular chamber 6' x 5’ across at the interior end facing the passage. About 30 yds [yards] N.E. [North East] of the last is another circle with a diameter across of 35’ and to the entrance towards the S.E. [South East] of 38’. About 30’ to N. [North] of it lies a cairn with its longest axis E. and W. [East and West] measuring about 28’ x 14’ and 2 ft. [feet] in height. Another similar in same alignment about 20’ W. [West] of the last measures 28’ x 16’ It is about 20 ft. [feet] N.W. [North West] of the last hut circle. About 20’ N.W. [North West] of the last is another measuring 21’x 16’. These seem without question sepulchral cairns and should be compared with others of the same form. e.g. at Fiscary near Bettyhill & the cairn I assisted to open at Gullane. It is probable they contain several interments as the latter did. These are part of a group in the vicinity of the hut circles 30 to 40 in number, mostly circular measuring some 16’ to 20’ in [Continued on page 119]
gb0551ms-36-8-119 [Page] 119 [Continued from page 118] diameter. To the S. [South] of the road to Auchness about 150 yds. [yards] W. [West] of where it leaves the main road S. [South] from Lairg are 2 hut circles, the Westmost one is small about 23 ft. [feet] across, the other overgrown with heath measures about 28 ft. [feet] Int. dia. [Interior diameter] Between the last circle and the main road to Bonar Bridge is a small group of cairns most of which have been demolished. One close to the road about 100 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the crossing is from 1 1/2’ to 2’ high and measures 20’ x 13’. About 350 yds. [yards] S [South] of the cross roads on the W. [West] side of the road are the remains of a hut circle of the usual form but smaller in size measuring internally 18’ x 24’. Ent. [Entrance] to S.E. [South East] walls much broken down. In its vicinity is a group of cairns about 12 in number mostly circular with dia. [diameter] of about 14 ft. [feet]. Towards the S.E. [South East] end of the group is an unusually shaped one resembling two round cairns joined by a neck. The whole length of the cairn is 24’. The expansions at either end 10’ long the neck about 4’. The S.E. [South East] end 14’ across the waist 8’ and the N.W. [North West] 13’. There is a marked concavity on the W. [West] in the centre not so [Continued on page 120]
gb0551ms-36-8-120 [Page] 120 [Continued from page 119] [Photograph inserted with text on reverse, transcribed on following page] - Stone circle on Struin near Lairg
gb0551ms-36-8-120a [Page] 120 [Continued from page 119] marked on the E. [East] and a lowering of the ridge at the waist. Another cairn about 20 ft. [feet] N.W. [North West] partially demolished measures about 22’ x 14’ and has its longest axis E. & W. [East & West]. Another small group lies between the road and the river about 150 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the junction of the Invercasley or Auchness Road. One at the S.W. [South West] of the group is oval measuring 17’ x 8’.6” with its longest axis E. & W. [East & West]. One a little to the N. [North] of it is almost circular with a dia [diameter] of 18’. Another to the S [South] measures 15’ x 9’.6” with its longest axis S.W. and N.E. [South West and North East]. On a low knoll between two small burns about 20 ft. [feet] back from the right bank of the Shin exactly opposite the N. [North] end of the island 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of Lairg Church are the remains of a stone circle. Four stones remain in situ - two towards the N. [North] and the correspond: :ing stones on the E. and W. [East and West]. The stones on the S. [South] have gone the side of the ridge on that side having been eaten into by the burn. The stones are from 1’.3” to 2’.3” high above ground & stand with their broad faces in the line of the circumference. The dia. [diameter] appears to have been from 13’ to 14’ The N. [North] point appears to be between the two [Continued on page 121]
gb0551ms-36-8-121 [Page] 121 [Continued from page 120] stones at the N. [North] end. (Plan &c. in note book) About 30 yds [yards] down the river from the stone circle is a well defined hut circle on the top of the river bank of the usual form but small measuring only 14’ x 20’. About 50 yds [yards] back from the river directly behind the hut circle are the ruins of three separate constructions. They seem to be as regards two of them, demolished cairns which have been put to a secondary use, but the remains are very indefinite. The third to the N.W. [North West] has exactly the appearance of a truncated cairn 33 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] & about 2’ ft. [feet] high. but neither cist nor chamber is exposed. The ruin to the S. [South] has, I believe, been a similar cairn 33 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter]. This had been a very hot day and by the time I got back at 5.30 I was very tired, and had a restless night in consequence. I must not do so much but it is difficult to stop when just a little more will complete the examination of a section. 15th June. Returned to the Ord to complete my investigation. I never saw a hill so completely covered with remains. About 250 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the summit on the W. [West] flank of the [Continued on page 122]
gb0551ms-36-8-122 [Page] 122 [Continued from page 121] hill are a number of curious constructions clustered together. At the extreme S.E. [South East] end is a small semicircular enclosure 18’ across with a wall stretching across the open end for a distance of 11’ from the W. [West]. About 30 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of it is an enclosure circular or square with rounded angles about 35 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] surrounded by the remains of a turf and boulder wall 7’ thick, the entrance to the S.E. [South East] about 5’ across. Adjoining it to the E [East] and facing N.W. [North West] is a large crescentic mound 41’ between its extremities, with a concavity of 12 ft. [feet]. 21 ft. [feet] wide at centre, 3’ ft [feet] high to the outside and 4’.7” in front. About 21 ft. [feet] from the centre of the cres: :cent is a low oval cairn 19’ from N.W. to S.E. [North West to South East] x 25’ from S.W. to N.E. [South West to North East]. It is quite flat on the top and looks as if it might have been a base for some structure sheltered by the mound to the S. [South] of it. It is about 2 ft. [feet] high. About 18’ N.W. [North West] of the last cairn is a heap of boulders 16’ in circ. [circumference] & 2 ft. [feet] high which does not appear to be sepulchral. At first glance this construction appeared to be a perfectly formed [sketch inserted here] due to a path having obliterated a part of the wall of the large enclosure. It has probably been a cattle pend, but I have noted it particularly [Continued on page 123]
gb0551ms-36-8-123 [Page] 123 [Continued from page 122] for the crescentic mound. About 100yds [yards] S.W. [South West] of the above is a hut circle of the usual type measuring 35’ x 37’. About 50’ S.W. [South West] of the hut circle is a mound or cairn which appears to be formed of earth and boulders with a diameter of about 20 ft. [feet] & height about 2 ft. [feet]. I am doubtful if it is sepulchral & yet it does not seem quite natural. There are several of them about the hill. One third of a mile or thereby S. [South] of the summit on a slight knoll is a cup-shaped hollow 11’ across and 1’.5” deep in centre and immedi: :ately adjoining it to the S.W. [South West] with its longest axis S.W. and N.E. [South West and North East] is a rectangular construction formed of flat sharp edged boulders set on end round three sides - the end towards the hollow being enclosed. The internal dimensions are 6’.8” by 3’.10”. There is no appearance of a wall and a considerable number of small stones lie about in the interior which is raised about 8 inches. The highest stone is 1’.6” above ground and 1’.7” across x 9” thick. Some 30’ ft [feet] S. [South] is a hut circle of ordinary type, with entrance to S.E. [South East] between 2 large stones 5 ft [feet] across. Dimensions. 46’ x 36’. About 14’ S.E. [South East] of the hollow is a small [Continued on page 124]
gb0551ms-36-8-124 [Page] 124 [Continued from page 123] cairn of about 6’ dia. [diameter] and some 20 ft. [feet] to the N. [North] of the circle is a cairn of earth & boulders lying N. & S. [North & South]. 12’ .6’x 10’ and 1’ - 1 1/2’ high, and there are one or two others about. 50 yds [yards] or so W. [West] of the great cairn near the summit is a circular one 28’ dia. [diameter] & about 3’.6” high. A slight excavation has been made on the top but neither cist nor chamber exposed. About 100 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the great cairn is a hut circle of usual type with entrance to S.E. [South East]. All along the hill face from the summit downwards for 100 ft. [feet] are numerous cairns mostly circular with diameter varying from about 12’ to 23’. The greatest number about 20’ and about 3’ high. These cairns are larger and more important than those usually found on the hill sides. About 50 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the last hut circle is another with an interior dia. [diameter] of about 18’ x 20’ and entrance apparently to the N. [North]. Some 250 yds. [yards] N.N.W. [North North West] of the great cairn is a well- -defined hut circle overgrown with heather quite circular with dia. [diameter] of 30’. Entrance to S.E. [South East]. Several cairns lie around it one about 20’ to the W. [West] lying N. and S. [North and South] measures about 17’ x 12’ & is about 3’ high. Towards its S. [South] end [Continued on page 125]
gb0551ms-36-8-125 [Page] 125 [Continued from page 124] one large stone stands up on the top 8” or 10” above the ridge. About 100 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the large cairn is a circle with an internal diameter of about 6 ft. [feet] surrounded by a stony bank, measuring over all about 20 ft. [feet] The centre is covered with turf and does not seem stony. Running from it on the N.W. [North West] are the ruins of an ancient wall which continue for a distance of 96’ and terminate in a low cairn like heap about 10’ long and 9’ across. 54 ft. [feet] beyond in the same direction over a space where there is no trace whatever of walling it commences again with a curve open to the E. [East] 21’ across and thereafter is connected with a large crescentic heap of stone 47’ across open & lower towards the W. [West] with interior measuring 18’ x 12’. the mound all round being about 8’ thick & 14’ at the N. & S. [North & South]. [Margin] 2 sketches inserted. Note. On a later occasion I observed other walls of a more masonic character on the E. [East] side of the hill. From one of them utilising a cairn placed in the line of its direction by building up to it on either side I conclude they are of later date. From the N.W. [North West] the wall proceeds down the hill and about 100 yds [yards] it appears to turn E. and W. [East and West] and there are indefinite indications of similar enclosures connected with it. It is very difficult to say what this has been. The wall is not carried to the top of the hill nor has it the strength or character [Continued on page 126]
gb0551ms-36-8-126 [Page] 126 [Continued from page 125] of a fortification. About 200 yds [yards] N.N.W. [North North West] of the great cairn is another crescentic construction measuring about 30’ overall with an interior of about 12’ dia. [diameter]. About 100 yds. [yards] N by W [North by West] of the great cairn, to the N. [North] of the pathway are the remains of a large walled enclosure - with internal dia. [diameter] about 43’ x 45’ and entrance to SE. [South East] and adjoining it to the NE. [North East] is a large oval cairn 33 ft [feet] from NE. to S.W. [North East to South West] & 23’ from NW to SE. [North West to South East] & about 3’ high. Some 100 yds. [yards] due N. [North] of the great cairn and on the upper side of the pathway is a small circle with an interior diameter of 16’ flanked on N and S [North and South] by banks about 2 ft. [feet] high and 12 ft. [feet] across, and base of walls indicated on E. [East] and W. [West]. This is a construction similar to those noted in Strathnaver. Near the entrance to the E [East] the wall is 4’ thick. [Margin - sketch with text inserted]. This construction seems related to the adjacent hut circle, wh. [which] has its entrance directly towards it. About 20’ E. [East] is a hut circle of ordinary type measuring internally 24’ x 29’ with walls about 5’ thick. Ent. [Entrance] to the N.W. [North West]. About 18’ E [East] is a cairn with diameter of about 22’. At about 100 yds. [yards] N.E. [North East] of the summit is a crescentic mound of earth and boulders measuring about 42’ along the crest about [Continued on page 127]
gb0551ms-36-8-127 [Page] 127 [Continued from page 126] 12’ across the centre and 29’ between the points facing N.E. [North East] with the back to the hill. About 150 yds. [yards] N. by E. [North by East] of summit within 50 ft. [feet] of the path is a cup shaped hollow of 6’ int. dia. [interior diameter] and 1 1/2’ deep. open to the N. [North]. About 200 yds. [yards] due N. [North] of the summit is a circular enclosure of about 27’ int. dia. [interior diameter] with a wide opening to the E. [East] as if for a fold. In its vicinity lie numerous cairns of the general character of those on the hill. Some 40 ft. [feet] N. [North] is another hut circle of the usual character with the entrance to the S.E. [South East] Internal dia. [diameter] about 24’ x 27’ and about 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the great cairn is another of the usual type but whose walls are not very distinct. The cairn on the N. & N.W. [North & North West] slope of the hill must number about 100. In general character they are larger than the usual run of those found in groups but they are associated with the hut circles & other remains of settled habitation over a con: :siderable period. Some of the remains are no doubt connected with cattle folding & pastoral life. The hut circles are rather smaller than the usual type. [Continued on page 128]
gb0551ms-36-8-128 [Page] 128 [Continued from page 127] Creich 16 June 1909. On the W. [West] side of Glen Cassley about 7 1/2 miles above the junction of the Cassley with the Oykel – on the slope of the hill about 80’ above the river are the ruins of a broch. The ground falls sharply away from it on the N and N.E. [North and North East] sides and towards the river. It is much dilapidated on the S. [South] on which side large sheep folds have been erected from its material. The Interior is very full of debris the wall being visible for no more than 5 ft. [feet] above it at any point. The highest portion is towards the N.W. [North West] where the wall is 11 ft. [feet] high to the exterior and rises some 5 - 6 ft. [feet] higher on the inside opposite. The thickness of the wall at this height (11 ft [feet]) is about 11’.6”. On the S.S.W. [South South West] at about 5 ft. [feet] from the ground level it is 14’.8” but on this side the position is weaker. The interior diameter is about 31 ft. [feet]. The entrance has been towards the E. [East] through a passage about 18’.6” long. The first 5’.6” are blocked with ruins, for 3 ft. [feet] the side walls are exposed and for the last 10’ the passage is complete roofed with flags throughout. 8’.6” from the exterior on the right hand side is the entrance to the guard chamber - only 18” wide and now 20” high. It has an entrance passage gradually widening 4 ft. [feet] in length - beyond which the chamber curves [Continued on page 129]
gb0551ms-36-8-129 [Page] 129 [Continued from page 128] round to the left and is covered with a roof formed of overlapping stones. The roof appeared to be intact. As the entrance was somewhat unsafe looking I did not squeeze myself in! Four feet beyond the guard chamber inward or outward? two door: :jambs project across the passage leaving a space between them of 20”. They are slabs 4” thick & do not act as supports there being no lintel above: :them. In the walls behind them 26” from the roof are the holes about 6” for the bar. That on the left goes 14” into the wall, that on the right 30” and appears to have passed into the guard chamber beyond as light was visible at the back of it. Outside the jambs the passage is 3 ft. [feet] wide and the walls diverge till at 5’.6” from exterior where last visible they are 4’.8” apart. Behind the jambs it is 5 ft. [feet] wide and now about 4’ high. On the S. [South] side of the broch a portion of a gallery or chamber is exposed still crossed by one huge stone 7’ long, 2’ broad & 10” thick. The chamber has been 3’.6” wide. To the N. [North] of it is an opening into the interior 3’ across. A portion of the same gallery is visible on the W. [West]. About 7’ S. [South] of the entrance the opposite ends of an oval chamber on the ground level about 10’ in length [Continued on page 130]
gb0551ms-36-8-130 [Page] 130 [Continued from page 129] with an entrance from the interior 3’ across are visible. Some of the stones used in the structure are very large, one on the S. [South] whose upper surface is 5 ft. [feet] above the ground level is 5’ long 3 ft. [feet] across and 1’ thick. To get across the Cassley I had to take off my shoes & stockings and wade, rather a painful performance as the gravel was very sharp. I recrossed by the same method & walked down to the shepherd’s house at Badintagart where I had left my bicycle, killing an adder on the road by the way. At Badintagart I could find no trace of the priest’s house which the name implies. Bicycling back to Auchness I made enquiry from the farm manager’s wife, or housekeeper for the brochs & got a tumbler of milk to refresh me. In the haugh between the road & the Cassely on a knoll about 50 yds [yards] back from the latter are indications of the existence of a broch. Only a stone or two of the outer wall is visible. The site is overgrown with grass. About 300 yds. [yards] N. [North] at the upper end of the haugh is the site of another of which a very little more is apparent. It has been of great size and has had a diameter over all of from 78’ to 80’. The walls appear to have been 18’ thick. [Continued on page 131]
gb0551ms-36-8-131 [Page] 131 [Continued from page 130] The lower course of the wall is quite visible on the N. [North] and SE. [South East] and a slight elevation marks the foundation of the wall. The road from Auchness to Lairg is very bad for bicycling on and I did not get back till 6.0. 17 June. Wrote up notes till 12.0 then set out on foot towards Torrobol. On the left hand or E [East] side of the road about 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of Lairg on a tract of moorland about 100 ft. [feet] above the river is a group of 7 or 8 cairns and the remains of a small hut circle with entrance towards the S. [South]. Dia. [Diameter] about 19' x 21'. On the N. [North] side of the road to Rhianbreck About 200 yds [yards] beyond its junction with the Lairg road is a hut circle of the usual type with entrance to the S.E. [South East]. Dia. [Diameter] about 24' x 27'. At Rhianbreck about 1/2 m. [mile] from the junction with the Lairg road about 50 ft. [feet] from the road in a field in front of a cottage is a circular cairn, overgrown with grass & whins, 32' in dia. [diameter] and from 3'- 4' high. A cattle shed has been built partly with it on the SE. [South East]. The exposure of the constructions seems to show that it was formed of boulders and turf. About 1/2 m. [mile] further E [East] along the road on [Continued on page 132]
gb0551ms-36-8-132 Page 132 [Continued from page 131] the S. [South] side on a stretch of moorland close to the road is a group of 7 or 8 cairns of from 12' to 18' circumference and 2' to 3' high. About 100 yds [yards] to the S. [South] and stretching along the hillside above the crofts are about a score more of the usual type. A few hundred yards S.E. [South East] of the upper end of the crofts at Torroboll and on the W. [West] side of an old road are several hut circles & cairns. 2 circles marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] are of the usual type overgrown with grass & heather – entrance to S.E. [South East]. A small group of cairns of the usual type lies about them. About 80 yds [yards] N. [North] and NW. [North West] respect: :ively of the N'.most [Northernmost] of the two are the indistinct remains of two others with 5 or 6 cairns beside them. About 100 yds [yards] E [East] across the road, from the marked circles is another with more cairns near it. The cairns are all overgrown with heather & seem to be made of smaller stones, & where observable in section at gravel pits &c, of turf. The cairns associated with this circle & the 2 directly across the road are 18 to 20 in number. I observe that not infrequently one or two large stones, which stand up about 1 ft. [foot] are placed on the tops of these cairns as [Continued on page 133]
gb0551ms-36-8-133 Page 133 [Continued from page 132] if perhaps marking the head & feet of the body. On the piece of waste ground S. [South] of the burn that runs through Torroboll & N.W. [North West] of the last enclosed crofts is a hut circle of usual type measuring internally 30' x 34' with walls 5 ft. [feet] thick and entrance to the S.W. [South West]. The wall is about 2 ft. [feet] high and is evidently built of boulders and turf. Around this circle are about a score of cairns of the usual small type. On the top of one at its N. [North] end a single large boulder sticks up about a foot above the heather. The weather has been stormy and the evening is wet. Jocelyn with Mary & nurse have gone to Dornoch to try to get rooms for next month. Harry Butler who joined us last night has been fishing on Loch Beannach. I have had my hair cut by the coach-builder with an ancient & unclean looking skirt draped round my neck & the barbers hands redolent of paint & varnish! 18th June 1909. A dull morning. Set off on foot along the Golspie road. About 3 m. [miles] E [East] of Lairg on the N. [North] side of the road situated on a slight level on the slope of the hill above which the rocks rise for some 50 ft. [feet]; is a hut circle of the usual type with entrance to the S.E. [South East]. It measures [Continued on page 134]
gb0551ms-36-8-134 [Page] 134 [Continued from page 133] [Sketch inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-134a [Page] 134 [Continued from page 133] internally 26' x 29'. At a later period the interior space has been diminished by a wall which curves across from either side cutting off the back of the enclosure so as to form a circle of 21' dia. [diameter]. In the centre of this area is a low bed of stones about 4' across which has formed a hearth. I cut out a turf with my knife and found wood charcoal (Fig) [Figure] About 60 ft. [feet] further E [East] and at a slightly lower level & nearer the road is another circle measuring about 28' x 34' int. [interior] with entrance to the S.E. [South East]. The wall is about 4' thick except at either side of the entrance passage where it expands to 7'. The passage measures from 3'.6" to 4' across. An old road passes along the hillside between these two circles. A circular cairn with a diameter of 22', low, and rather dilapidated lies about 40' N.W. [North West] of the last circle and about 12' lower on the slope. On a slight elevation about 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the last and about 20' above the road are the remains of another. The bank on the N. [North] has fallen away taking a considerable part of the circle with it and disclosing a section of the interior which shows a layer of char: :coal about 2" deep, from 5" to 6" below the present surface which lies on a level floor of earth. There are no bones or foreign matter among the charcoal which lies near where [Continued on page 135]
gb0551ms-36-8-135 [Page] 135 [Continued from page 134] the inside of the wall must have been. In the N.E. [North East] corner of the circle is a cup shaped hollow about 7' across & 18" deep. Rogart Par. [Parish] Broch No. 19. At the upper end of Strath Fleet about 3 m. [miles] E.S.E. [East South East] of Lairg, on the S. [South] side of the strath and about 300 ft. [feet] above the road, at the upper side of an enclosure at one time under cultivation are situated the remains of a broch. It is an absolute ruin. The line of the outer wall is visible in one or two places, the inner no: :where. On the E. [East] side the end of a chamber has been exposed and what may be the entrance passage is visible through a small aperture in front of a roofing slab. The diameter of the structure is unobtainable. On the N. [North] side the existence of a chamber is also noticeable. On the W. [West] in the direction in which the ground slopes the ruin is about 12' high but consid: :erably less on the E. [East]. I spent a long time moving stones in an endeavour to find the entrance & other features but to no purpose. Lairg Retracing my steps along the road to Balindialish about 1 1/4 m [miles] from Lairg I climbed a steep slope on which the yellow rock roses were flowering & reached the ridge [Continued on page 136]
gb0551ms-36-8-136 [Page] 136 [Continued from page 135] running W. [West] above the crofts on which various groups of cairns are situated. The first group is above Balindialish and consists of 3 or 4 of the ordinary low grass covered type. About 1/4 m. [mile] W. [West] above Balcharn is another group of low mounds of from 12 - 18 ft. [feet] diameter. I have examined many of these small “tumuli” where the interior construction has been exposed on the banks of burns, gravel pits &c. and I find them to be composed of stones and turf or earth thus differing in construction from the larger cairns formed entirely of boulders. The former are almost invari: :ably overgrown with grass or heather . A short distance to the N. [North] of Balcharn is a group of about half a dozen all grass grown. Of the group at Culmaily to the E. [East] of it only one remains half broken down on the edge of the road to the E. [East] of the road past the crofts. About 100 yds. [yards] S. [South] on the moorland the outline of a hut circle is observable. The group about 400 yds. [yards] E. [East] of Culbuie consists of about a dozen, from 12' to 18' dia. [diameter] and about 3' high. About 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of Savalbeg at Dulaich is a group of about 14. One or two are rather higher and more pointed than usual being [Continued on page 137]
gb0551ms-36-8-137 [Page] 137 [Continued from page 136] about 3'.6" high. A short distance to the N.E. [North East] of Loch Dulaich and on either side of the road or track to Loch Tigh na Creageach is a large group of cairns and hut circles. The first hut circle is on a slight rise to the N. [North] of the road about 300 yds. [yards] past the loch. It is of the usual type but its outline is not now very definite. A short distance beyond it to the N.E. [North East] is a group of 6 or 8 cairns of the usual type. About 100 yds. [yards] further on and about 40 yds [yards] N. [North] of the road is another hut circle of usual form, with Entrance to S.E. [South East] and measuring 21' x 27'. Crossing the road the ground rises steeply and along the top of the ridge and on its N. [North] slope are a great number of cairns (about a score) overgrown with grass and heather measuring from 12' to 18' in diameter. Scattered among them are five hut circles. The most northerly of the group is situated close beside the road and is somewhat larger than usual measur: :ing 34' x 45' internally. The Entrance which is 3' wide is as usual to the S.E. [South East]. Abutting on it at the West side is another smaller circle with dia. [diameter] 28' x 31' & entrance to S.E. [South East]. They are connected by a common bank or mound 12' across. [Continued on page 138]
gb0551ms-36-8-138 [Page] 138 [Continued from page 137] [Sketch inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-138a [Page] 138 [Continued from page 137] About 50 yds. [yards] S.W. [South West] of it is another with internal dia. [diameter] of 24' x 31'. It appears to have been at one time much larger but to have been filled up on the W. [West] side making the bank in that direction 14' across. Another on the top of the ridge about 100 yds [yards] S. [South] of the double circle is another in good preservation. It measures about 21' x 24', & has the entrance to the S. [South] E. [East]. The interior appears to have been hollowed out to some extent and is about 2 ft. [feet] below the ground level on the upper side. The other circle of the group about 50 yds. [yards] W. [West] is much effaced. Across the burn, the Feith Mhòr which flows to the N. [North] of these remains on a slight elevation is a similar group consisting of a hut circle and cairns. The circle is about 190 yds [yards] N.N.W. [North North West] of the bridge across the burn. It measures about 19' x 23'. To the S. [South] and E. [East] of it lie about a dozen cairns of the usual type. In Loch Dola are a couple of small islands on which the black headed gulls are breeding. I was sur: :prised to see a small flock of starlings frequenting the trees on one of these islands. I did not think they would have flocked together so early in the year. Returning I took the road down over Lairg Moor. In a small piece of waste land about 300 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of [Sydney] Ho. [House] is a group [Continued on page 139]
gb0551ms-36-8-139 [Page] 139 [Continued from page 138] of 7 or 8 cairns of the ordinary type. One however in the S.E. [South East] corner of the enclosure measures 23' x 21'. Another cairn is about 300 yds [yards] S. [South] of Sidney House. 19 June 1909. I took a seat in the Invershin motor as far as Colaboll about 4 m [miles] N.N.W. [North North West] of Lairg. Here the land has been much brought under cultivation and the cairns & hut circles marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map as existing about 3/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the post office have entirely disappeared except for one hut circle at the N. [North] side of the small plantation about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] and near its E. [East] end. It is of the usual type with entrance to SE [South East] and measures about 25' x 33'. Finding my way by farm road to Shiness I struck N. [North] on to the moorland by a fallen monument to the memory of Murray of Guirness who had been the means of reclaiming the surrounding land from the moors and excellent pas: :ture land much of it looked. About 300 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the monument is a hut circle measuring 33' x 36' with entrance to S.E. [South East]. A foot or two to the E. [East] of its centre is a small semicircle of stones about 2' across which has been a hearth. I cut out a turf and found a small quantity of charcoal. About 10 ft. [feet] [Continued on page 140]
gb0551ms-36-8-140 [Page] 140 [Continued from page 139] in from the entrance on the left side is a hollow about 2' across and 14" deep. One large stone seems to be in situ on one side and another has fallen in. About 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] is another smaller than usual and circular with a diameter of about 18'. It seems to have had a secondary stone building inside it probably in connection with a small house which once stood near. There are remains of a number of cairns in the vicinity overgrown with turf. About 1 m. [mile] N.W. [North West] of the monument are two hut circles of usual type with some half a dozen cairns around them. All along the ridge the cairns occur at intervals and one or two hut circles are visible among them but the banks seem to have been solely of turf & they have in great measure disappeared. The cairns where indicated at the end of the ridge are very numerous but show no features of peculiar interest. The broch of Shiness is situated on a knoll at the foot of a field about 400 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of Shiness house at the N. [North] end of the Loch a’ Bhainbh. It is now a featureless cairn of stones some 7' to 8' high. The remains of two chambers are visible on the S.E. [South East] side. In the bank of the burn to the S. [South] a quantity of [Continued on page 141]
gb0551ms-36-8-141 [Page] 141 [Continued from page 140] iron slag is visible. It is not immixed with charcoal as that on the Skelpick burn was. As I expected to meet Jocelyn & her father at the end of the Ard na’ Sinnis I crossed to the promontory and walked along it. As I lay resting during my walk six stags startled by some boys raced past close by me. Towards the end of the Ard about 400 yds [yards] from its SE. [South East] point is a hut circle & several cairns of the usual type. On reaching the end of the Ard about 3 o’clock I saw the boat in the far distance well on its way back to Lairg so after resting I retraced my steps and crossing to the mainland by a bridge walked back to Lairg. A mile out I met a motor sent to pick me up. I find I walked about 16 miles. Sunday. 20. June 1909. A showery day. Went to church in forenoon & was glad of a rest in the afternoon. M [Monday] 21st. June. Went to Brora with Jocelyn to get rooms for August, secured them in the Grand Hotel - a new temperance hotel. They seem nice & are moderate in cost. Letter from Sir Herbert saying not to hesitate about a private sitting room. [Continued on page 142]
gb0551ms-36-8-142 [Page] 142 [Continued from page 141] [Sketch inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-142a [Page] 142 [Continued from page 141] 22 June. A very wet day but as it cleared a little I set out at 10.30. to visit the “tumuli” &c. about 2 m [miles] S. [South] of Lairg Station. About 200 yds [yards] short of the 1st milestone beyond the Station on the E [East] side of the road to Bonar Bridge and immediately above it in the birch wood are a group of about 1 doz. [dozen] cairns and the ruins of a hut circle all of the usual type. About 300 yds. [yards] further on and just past the mile stone is another group of about 14 cairns with a well preserved hut circle about 30 yds [yards] from the road. It measures 38' across but as the bank at the entrance in the interior has been thickened so as to make the passage 13' in length the diameter from the N.W. [North West] to S.E. [South East] is only 32'. The Entrance faces the S.E. [South East] as usual. The banks are thicker & seem more peaty than usual. Abutting on the outer wall at the S. [South] is a smaller enclosure of about 16' x 13' Int. dia. [Interior diameter] with ent. [entrance] to S.E. [South East] The entrance has been much broken down. (Fig) [Figure] About 100 yds [yards] E. [East] is another circle of usual type. On either side of the entrance which is in the usual position the outer edge of the bank has been outlined with large stones for 10 or 12 ft. [feet] Three cairns lie very close around - one within 12' [Continued on page 143]
gb0551ms-36-8-143 [Page] 143 [Continued from page 142] of the entrance. Some 500 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the road on the hillside is another considerable group of cairns and adjacent to it a large pear shaped enclosure measuring about 46' x 70' with a wide entrance to the S. [South] about 20' across. The E. [East] wall is continued round flanking the entrance & following the S. [South] side of a hollow down hill for about 100 yds [yards]. Some 60' N. [North] another wall runs from the side of the encl. [enclosure] W. [West] along the other side of the hollow and at about 100 yds. [yards] turns sharply to the S. [South] and passes the end of the other wall so as to leave an entrance way between them about 10 ft. [feet] wide. To the N. [North] of the large enclosure is a small circle with int. dia. [interior diameter] of about 10 ft [feet] & walls of stone turf. This appears to have been a rather elaborate cattle enclosure. There are many of these old tumbled down walls in the neighbourhood of hut circles &c. whose course is almost impossible to follow and the object of whose erection equally difficult to ascertain. To the S. [South] of the enclosure and along the hill side for half a mile are numerous cairns and hut circles. About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Allt na Fearna Mòr and about 400 yds [yards] E. [East] of the road is double hut [Continued on page 144]
gb0551ms-36-8-144 [Page] 144 [Continued from page 143] circle. The circle on the W. [West] is of the usual type measuring 24' x 30' with ent. [entrance] to S.E. [South East] and is at a slightly higher elevation than its neighbour. The other circle has been built against the first in such a way that it is unsymmetrical. Its S.W. [South West] being formed by the side of the latter. Its entrance is also to S.E. [South East] and is about 9 ft. [feet] wide. The entrance of the first seems to be of the usual character and about 3 ft. [feet] wide. The measurements of the second circle are 30' x 39'. About 40 yds [yards] S. [South] is one of the double mounded enigmas! In the centre is a circular depression [Margin] Kiln? of about 6' diameter. It is flanked on either side by mounds of earth & stone running N. & S. [North & South] about 20 ft. [feet] in length and 13' broad across the base at the centre, slightly converging to the S. [South] where the entrance is. They are at highest 3'.6" above the centre of the depression. The entrance is about 2' wide and is carefully defined on one side with a single square edged stone 2'.4" long and by two similar stones on the opposite side. Though the mounds are not continued across the back of the construction there seems to be a base of a wall in that position. I pierced the interior which seemed in the very centre to be very free from stones as if it [Continued on page 145]
gb0551ms-36-8-145 [Page] 145 [Continued from page 144] might have been a well. Can these be places for water? It was pouring rain & I found great difficulty in making notes or looking at my map. I pushed on however to visit the “tumuli” indicated on the map (24b) and finding on the hill above them the remains of an excellent stone circle unnoted I thought it time to return & start fresh on it another day. 23rd June. As I have been feeling a tightness across my forehead for some days I took a rest and fished with Harry Butler in Bearnoch. The sky was covered with heavy thunderous clouds & we did no good. 11 trout weighing 7½ lbs. [pounds]. I had one lanky brute 1 1/2 lbs [pounds] 24 June. Lairg Moor The group of cairns about 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of Lairg church is of the usual character. There are [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10 remains of one or two hut circles now ill defined. About 250 yds [yards] N.W. [North West] of Sydney Ho. [House] Lairg Moor, are two hut circles set in relation to an old enclosing bank. The bank or mound is irregular in outline and height but in places it is 12' - 14' ft. [feet] across. and 2 ft [feet] high. It crosses the moor from N.W. to S.E. [North West to South East] along the edge of a slight elevation and on reaching the point where the hut circles have been placed it turns to the S. [South] [Continued on page 146]
gb0551ms-36-8-146 [Page] 146 [Continued from page 145] and proceeding in the direction of Sydney Ho. [House] crosses the road and is lost in the cultivated land beyond. There is an opening through the bank, 6 ft. [feet] across just where it alters its direction, flanked on the S. [South] by a broadening of the mound to 20 ft. [feet] and on the opposite side by a hut circle placed against the mound on its outer face. The circle measures about 20' x 23' and has two entrances, one to the S.E. [South East] and another on to the entrance passage to the interior of the enclosure. Nearly opposite the opening & about 50 ft. [feet] NW. [North West] within the mound is another hut circle of similar dimensions, well preserved with an entrance to S. [South]. To the N. & N.E. [North & North East] of the circles are a number of small cairns of usual type. About 150 yds. [yards] N.E [North East] of Sydney Ho. [House] is another hut circle of usual type with an entrance to the S. [South]. A number of cairns lie to the N & N.E. [North & North East] of it. About 300 yds. [yards] of Sydney Ho. [House] are the remains of a cairn noted on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey]. It has been in great measure removed. A portion, however, still remains across the centre from which the ends of several large upright stones pro: :trude indicating the chambered character of the construction. The diameter of the cairn has been about 47'. About 600 yds. [yards] N.E. [North East] of Sydney Ho. [House] is a [Continued on page 147]
gb0551ms-36-8-147 [Page] 147 [Continued from page 146] cairn overgrown with grass on the top of which stands a sheepfold (O.S. [Ordnance Survey] Cairn Site.) Its diameter is about 64' and its height 4' to 5'. There is no sign that the chamber or cist has been exposed. The outline has been much disturbed but to: :wards the E. [East] there is a distinct projection about 18' in length and about 28' across at base. The inward curve of the outline towards the S. [South] is quite apparent and it is evident that stones have been removed from what was prob: :ably a similar projection towards the S. [South]. There are no signs of "horns" at the opposite side of the cairn but at the N. & W. [North & West] are two semicircles of stones carefully laid about 8' across which, however, were it not for their symmetrical position I should consider secondary & probably the foundations of huts or shelters. About 250 yds. [yards] N.N.E. [North North East] of Creag Saval is a group of cairns in number about 2 doz. [dozen] of usual type and another small group lie about the same distance to the N.W. [North West]. Near the latter are the remains of a great circular cairn with a diameter of about 80 ft. [feet]. It has been almost removed but a ridge is left standing from 4 to 5 ft [feet] high from N.W. to S.E. [North West to South East] across the centre. Some [Continued on page 148]
gb0551ms-36-8-148 [Page] 148 [Continued from page 147] details of the internal arrangement may be con: :cealed in this fragment as no definite signs of a chamber are elsewhere visible. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8 About 1/3 m. [mile] S.S.W. [South South West] of Savalmore on a ridge is a group of cairns and a hut circle. The hut circle is a circle of 30' Internal dia. [diameter] & well preserved. An oval mound on the face of the hill above the manse of Lairg is marked "cairn" on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey]. Its longest axis lies N.W. & S.E. [North West & South East] Dia. [Diameter] 83' x 54'. Height about 6 ft. [feet]. It is entirely covered with turf and I doubt its artificial character though the S.E [South East] end of it has more appearance of a sepulchral cairn than the rest. I visited the churchyard before returning home but found nothing of any importance. I took it easy today & occasionally rested so did not feel my head so much. 25th June. I procured an assistant today as I anti: :cipated much measurement. We proceeded first to the group of cairns which lie about the top of a low grassy hill about 1/4 m. [mile] N [North] of Lairg [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] No. 8 Lodge. It consists of about 16 small cairns of the usual type covered with vegetation. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] No. 4 About 1/2 m. [mile] due N. [North] on the AnT-Sròn a ridge running N. and S. [North and South] are a large number of cairns & [Continued on page 149]
gb0551ms-36-8-149 [Page] 149 [Continued from page 148] several circles. On the E [East] face of the hill towards the S. [South] end of it is a singular construction. The main feature is a circle of contiguous boulders the largest of them from 18" to 2' high & about the same width at base, with a diameter of about 46 ft. [feet]. A number of the stones have been removed so recently that the beds in the peat where they stood still remain. On the N. [North] for a considerable distance there is a blank from which the stones have probably long ago been removed. At four feet within the circle the remains of another, concentric but of smaller stones is at several points quite apparent, and also at 4' outside the main circle another also concentric and of lower stones is met with. The growth of heather rather ob: :scures these details in places. Towards the S.E. [South East] is an entrance - 4' to 5' wide through the main circle edged with stones on either side for 9' towards the centre. The slabs from which two large stones which stood with their broad faces at right angles to the circumf. [circumference] of the circle in line on one side of this passage are quite evident. At 9' inwards there is a regular causeway of large stones laid across the end of the opening for a further distance of 9' at the end of which is a low mound or [Continued on page 150]
gb0551ms-36-8-150 [Page] 150 [Continued from page 149] grass covered circular cairn occupying the centre of the circle 11 ft. [feet] across and about 1 1/2 ft. [feet] high. Between the circles there is no sign of a turf bank as in an ordinary hut circle and although here and there are a few stones there is no indication whatever of a wall or bank. Piercing the turf in the interior I found stones over nearly the whole interior area about 8" below the surface. I do not know what to make of this. I am not satisfied that its object was sepulchral. About 40 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the last is a low cairn of 24' diameter, which appears to have been en: :closed within a circle of low stones about 9' apart, the circle having a diameter of from 36 to 38 ft. [feet]. Of the fourteen stones which must have formed the circle only 3 small ones remain but there are the well defined seats of seven others leaving only four unaccounted for. The evidence I hardly consider conclusive but the circle worked out with wonderful accuracy from the existing stones & the seats of the uprooted ones. The existing stones though firmly set in the peat do not protrude more than 10" to a foot & are not broad. The stones removed have all been larger. Most of them stood with their broad faces at [Continued on page 151]
gb0551ms-36-8-151 [Page] 151 [Continued from page 150] right angles to the line of the circumference. The cairn is not more that 2' to 2 1/2 in height. About 40' E [East] of the last is a small depression bounded by a bank about 8' across & 14' high on the E [East] side in which direction the ground slopes. The Interior is circular with a diameter of from 6 to 7 ft. [feet] and has been entered from the S. [South]. There are numerous cairns all along the slope of the hill facing the S.E. [South East]. Towards the top of the hill and S.E. [South East] of the large enclosure indicated on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map is a hut circle with entrance to S.E. [South East], 9' wide. It is of the usual form & measures 36' across by 41' in length. The banks of turf & stone as usual. I consider this as also others with wide entrances to have been cattle enclosures. About 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Ant-Sròn across a stretch of boggy land rises the Cnoch a' Chatha A grassy hill about 200 ft [feet] in height & running SE. [South East] and N.W. [North West] for about 1/2 m. [mile]. It is simply covered with remains. There are scores of cairns of the usual class. A number also which I suspect to be heaps of stones gathered from the surface of fields - old cattlefolds, hut circles & walls of ancient enclosures. Some of the circles here present new features. [Continued on page 152]
gb0551ms-36-8-152 [Page] 152 [Continued from page 151] They have been formed of stone and give indica: :tions of chambers in the thickness of the walls. The debris in the interior of one is so great as to sug: :gest that it has been roofed. The form of these huts is no longer pear shaped but either circular or oval with the longest axis across the interior from side to side. The cairns show no change in outward form and hut circles of the ordinary type occur at various places over the hill. There are here also the same curious irregularly curving walls connecting small enclosures as I observed on the Ard and beyond Lairg Station. An S shaped cattle fold [(S) sketch inserted here] may give a clue to the meaning of similar smaller constructions observed in Strath Naver near the Carnachaidh Burn. Beginning the survey of the hill from the S.E. [South East] end, there are observable a number of round cairns overgrown with turf of the usual character (these extend all over the crest and flanks of the hill). Near them is a hut circle of usual type measuring 29' x 35' internally with entrance to the S.E. [South East]. A little to the N.W. is another whose breadth is greater than its length, measuring 14' x 12. The entrance to the S.E. [South East]. From its N.W. [North West] a bank curves [Continued on page 153]
gb0551ms-36-8-153 [Page] 153 [Continued from page 152] northwards up the hill and for about [--] and [Margin - Sketch inserted here] then running W [West] for about 15 ft. [feet] meets the E. [East] side of another circle at its entrance. The latter "circle" is 33 ft. [feet] in diameter and has an entrance to the S. [South] about 33 ft. [feet] across, being probably a cattle enclosure. The bank enclosing it where best preserved on the E. [East] side is about 13' across & 3' high formed of earth or turf and stones. Some 40 ft. [feet] to the S. [South] of the lower circle is apparently the opening through a bank or wall the ends of which are discernible on either side running in N.W. and N.E. [North West and North East] directions respectively. Some 40 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the upper enclosure are the remains of a circular stone building of 14' internal diameter, with entrance to the S. [South] and walls of boulders 6' across foundations. A little to the N. [North] of it is a well preserved hut circle of the ordinary type measuring 26' x 31' with entrance to the S. [South] 5' wide. The bank thickens towards the entrance where it is 11' across. About 60 ft. [feet] S.W. [South West] of the last are the ruins of a stone structure showing remains of walls from 18" to 2' high & from 9' to 10' thick. It is oval with its longest axis at right angles to the direction of its entrance which is to the S. [South]. Its internal measurements are 25' x 23'. The entrance is much ruined [Continued on page 154]
gb0551ms-36-8-154 [Page] 154 [Continued from page 153] but appears to have been about 2' wide. There are indications that the interior has been sub-divided into small oval or round chambers with outlines of boulders but the debris lying all over the interior renders the plan indefinite. About 50 yds [yards] N.W. [North West] of the last is a construction with two circular enclosures separated from each other by a stone foundation 3 ft. [feet] across and bounded on the W [West] side by a mound of earth and stones 29' long, 14' broad on base and 2' - 3' high and on the E [East] by a mound of lesser dimensions. The two circles lie in line in a direction NW. and SE. [North West and South East]. That towards the N.W. [North West] is oval & measures internally 13' in length x 9' in breadth and appears to have a wide opening to the NE. [North East] the ends of the mounds as usual not being brought round to form an entrance. The circle to the SE [South East] measures 8' in breadth x 10' in length and has an entrance to the SE. [South East] 2' wide and through a wall with a well defined edge 2'.5" thick on the W. [West] side, the stone on the opposite side being overgrown with grass the actual length of the passage is unascertainable. From the E [East] side of the circle near the centre, a wall runs SE. [South East] for [Margin - Sketch inserted here] about 40' then turns NE [North East] up the hill for about 70 yds [yards] thereafter turning sharply to the N [North] and NW [North West] for about 100 yds [yards] terminates in an oval enclosure 22' across x 11' deep, with an opening to S.W. [South West]. Where [Continued on page 155]
gb0551ms-36-8-155 [Page] 155 [Continued from page 154] the wall turns to NE [North East] across an opening of 27 ft. [feet] is the end of a similar wall which runs more or less parallel up the hill for 70 or 80 yds [yards] & terminates in a cup-shaped depression about 12' int. [interior] diameter. These walls are not defensive and are only worthy of notice from their connection with these small enclosures which are a regular feature of them. About 150 yds [yards] NW. [North West] of the first stone hut circle are the ruins of another circular with an internal diameter of 18 ft. [feet]. At the N. [North] end are indications of a small oblong chamber (or perhaps of two oval ones) in the thickness of the wall measuring about 6' x 4' with an entrance from the interior. The entrance of the main circle has been to the S. [South]. At the S.E. [South East] extremity of the flat top of the hill are the ruins of a circular building with a diameter of 34 ft. [feet] showing traces of chambers in the thickness of the walls. There is much stone lying all over the interior to a great extent covered with grass. There is no height of walling anywhere visible but the interior is lower than the sides. The diameter over all is 34 ft. [feet] and that of the interior appears to have been about 16 ft. [feet]. The ent. [entrance] has been to the S.E. [South East] through a passage about 13 ft. [feet] in length 13 ft. [feet] wide at the outer [Continued on page 156]
gb0551ms-36-8-156 [Page] 156 [Continued from page 155] end and converging to 2' at the inner. On the very summit of the Cnoc is a double enclosure, un: :doubtedly for cattle, forming a diverging spiral. [Margin - Sketch inserted here] The upper circle has a diameter of 42' and is sur: :rounded by a ruined wall 5' to 6' thick. The ent: :rance to the S. [South] is 20 ft. [feet] wide and is flanked on the E. [East] by a horn projecting 21 ft. [feet] to the S.E. [South East]. The wall from the W. [West] side of the entrance runs S. [South] for about 60' then curves round to the Westwards forming another enclosure with a diameter of 43' terminating parallel to and 5' distant from the S. [South] bank or wall. The banks of the lower spiral are faint and have probably been made of turf. I have particularly noted this on account of the resemblance of its plan to those of the so-called "ser: :pentine" cairns. Numerous cairns lie all over the hill of the usual type. One rather prominent lies to the E [East] of the summit. It has a diameter of 26 ft. [feet] and is about 3' high. Another about 150 yds [yards] to the NE [North East] measures 20' in diameter and is some 3' to 4' high. Towards the NW. [North West] end of the E [East] face about 160 yds [yards] NE [North East] from the large cairn on the top is a cres: :centic mound with its concavity towards the NE. [North East]. It measures 22' from point to point is 11' broad [Continued on page 157]
gb0551ms-36-8-157 [Page] 157 [Continued from page 156] at centre, has a concavity of about 4' and is about 2' high. It is formed of earth & stones. Like others I have observed the front of the crescent faces down hill. About 30 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of the last is an oval enclosure surrounded by a broad bank of boulders and earth about 6' thick with an internal diameter of 10' x 20', entrance to the SE. [South East]. Longest axis to the ent. [entrance]. On the lower slope of the hill to the NE. [North East] is a circular enclosure with an internal diameter of about 13 ft. [feet] with banks from 1 1/2' to 2' above the bottom of the interior. The entrance apparently to the NW. [North West]. At the NW [North West] end of the hill on the flank are two or three enclosures with wide entrances probably cattle enclosures - one measured was 30' wide x 37 long. On the W [West] slope of the hill to the N.W. [North West] of the ruins of the stone enclosures & 100 yds. [yards] or so SE [South East] of the cattle enclosures is a hut circle measuring 26' x 28' with ent [entrance] to the S.E. [South East] and opening out of it at the N.E. [North East] a smaller circle with diameter of 11'. On the lower slope of the hill on the W. [West] side are several cairns of stones which do not appear to be sepulchral. One over all measures 18' x 22' with its longest axis to the SE. [South East] where appears to have been the entrance. The interior seems to have measured 5' x 4' [Continued on page 158]
gb0551ms-36-8-158 [Page] 158 [Continued from page 157] The exact or approximate location of all these ob: :jects on a hill featureless except for the remains themselves is a matter of great difficulty and the concentration of mind required for the many problems that present themselves is great and ex: :hausting. When I turned my steps homeward I was very weary and glad to get rest about 6.0. This has all been written up on Sunday and I have worked from 10.0 to nearly 4.0 and I still have yesterday's visit to the broch at Sallachy to put on record. This is no sinecure! 26th June. Got one of the hotel boats & rowed up to Sallachy broch with Jocelyn, a 3 miles pull against the wind. The broch is situated on the W [West] bank of Loch Shin about 3/4 m. [mile] N.N.W. [North North West] of Sallachy and about 100 ft. [feet] above the loch. It is not on a very strongly defensible position as many brochs are. It has been cleared out to a great extent in the interior and the debris has been removed from the stairway & chambers. The greatest height of wall exposed to the ex: :terior is about 6'.6" and on the interior about 10'.4". The thickness of the walls across the top is 13'.6" and the interior diameter is 32'.6". The entrance has been to the S.E. [South East] through a passage at present 15' in length but the outer [Continued on page 159]
gb0551ms-36-8-159 [Page] 159 [Continued from page 158] end is not exposed & 3'.4" wide. There are two chambers opposite each other in the entrance passage about 8'.8" in from the exterior (as given in plan). The chamber on the right has an entrance 2' wide 3 ft. [feet] through the thickness of the wall, and is itself oval in form with its longest axis in line of its entrance 8'.2" long, 4'.5" wide, and 7'.6" with a step at the entrance 20" high. The roof has for the most part gone The left hand chamber appears to be intact ex: :cept at its entrance where the wall on the inner side has collapsed. Its dimensions were of the entrance 23" wide and 3' high, with a step 20" deep. At 19'.6" to the N.W. [North West] from the left side of inner end of the main entrance is the entrance to the staircase and chamber opposite to it. The entrance is 20" above ground level in the interior & is 3'.6" in width & 4' within the wall. The stair which rises to the right still exists for 7 steps for the most part broken and displaced, It is 3'.4" wide. An oval chamber is opposite the stair 3'.6" wide at entrance expanding to 4'.6" and 9'.4" long. It has been covered with an overlapping roof now gone. The entrance to it is covered with a lintel 4' long, 19" broad & 11" thick. On the S. [South] side between the main entrance and the entrance to the stair at about 9' from the ground is a single stone projecting about 4" beyond the wall below and 11" beyond the wall above it [Continued on page 160]
gb0551ms-36-8-160 [Page] 160 [Continued from page 159] which for a distance of about 6' along the curve is slightly restricted so as to form a ledge. About the same level on the opposite side the same partial restriction appears for about the same distance. Opposite the main entrance at a height of 8'.7" from ground level another similar stone projects. At this level there has been a course of larger stones around the inner circumference. At 46' S.E. [South East] of the outer end of the entrance to the broch are the ruins of an outer defensive wall which curves round to the flanks meeting the broch at 28' from the entrance on the S. [South] side and at about 37' on the W. [West]. The details [Margin - Sketch inserted] of this defensive work are obscured at the entrance by the talus of rubbish taken from the interior in the excavation. 27th. Sunday. Worked all day to make up for my day's fishing. 28th June. Set out on foot to the E. [East] past Gunn's planta: :tion towards Balchairn. In the lowest field on the right side of the road leading up to the croft is a mound measuring from 60-70 ft. [feet] diameter surrounded by a ditch about 40 ft. [feet] wide and about 5 ft. [feet] deep. There is a slight rampart on the top of [Continued on page 161]
gb0551ms-36-8-161 [Page] 161 [Continued from page 160] the counterscarp. It is situated close to the E [East] boundary of the field and the whole site has long been under cultivation. On the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] it is marked "site of cairn". Some 300 yds. [yards] from the S. [South] end of the road on the W. [West] side of it, and near the lowest of the two crofts are the remains of a circular cairn. It has been greatly dilapidated - a large sheep fold abuts on it to the E [East] and on the S.W. [South West] are the foundations of cottages. The diameter appears to have been about 90'. A portion of the cairn containing the chamber remains to a height of several feet in the centre. 43' from the NE. [North East] edge two large pointed stones 2'.3" apart protrude for 1' to 14" and at 8' further in the same direction the heads of another similar pair 2' apart are visible. The stones are set so that those diagonally opposite are parallel. The breadth of chamber appears to be about 6'. Behind the shepherd's house at Savelbeg is the remaining half of a cairn the house being partially built on the site of the remainder. It appears to have been circular with diameter of from 60 - 70 ft. [feet] and where the section is exposed is still about 6 ft. [feet] high. It is overgrown [Continued on page 162]
gb0551ms-36-8-162 [Page] 162 [Continued from page 161] with grass on the surface. Neither cist or chamber is exposed. About 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of Creag Saval between the old road leading to the ford over the Allt Chaisegail and the fence to W [West] of it a green hillock rises from the swampy moorland. Near its S.E. [South East] end is a small circle measuring internally about 12' x 16' with its entrance S.E. [South East] and 2' wide, the thickness of the bank at base being about 6'. Some 8' in from ent. [entrance] is a semicircular setting of Stones 2'.6" across evidently a hearth. I cut out a turf & found charcoal but in very small quantity. About 30' S. [South] of it is a larger circle measuring internally about 30' x 33', with entrance from S.E. [South East]. About 40' N.E [North East] of the small circle is another larger one broken down on the E [East] side with entrance S.E. [South East] about [Margin] unnoted 10' across. All along the hillock are small cairns of the usual character. A rather rough walk over a boggy moor brought me to the Allt Chaisegail a nice looking trouting burn. Across it I met the shepherd driving a nice flock of black faced sheep which are much less in vogue here than the Cheviots. He told me of a group of cairns evidently of the usual class lying between Cnoc Neill & Loch Beannoch & indicated their position on my map. There is a fine specimen of a glacial morain running N. & S. [North & South] towards the burn. It resembles a great rampart about [Continued on page 163]
gb0551ms-36-8-163 [Page] 163 [Continued from page 162] 20' in height. About 1/3 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the ford over the Chaisegail on the lower slope of Cnoc Neill overlooking the flow is a good specimen of a hut circle. Its internal measurements are 32' x 33', the sur: :rounding bank at the entrance about 6' thick and 2' high largely over grown with heather except on the outside to right of the entrance where the construction of the wall of boulders set in earth or turf is well displayed. The entrance is to the SE. [South East]. On the SE [South East] end of a grassy hill, whose summit rises some 150 yds. [yards] to the NW. [North West] in a commanding position at Altbrech about 1 m. [mile] E [East] of Dalchork are the remains of a broch. It has been sadly dilapidated and used as a quarry for sheepfolds and numerous secondary constructions in its immediate neighbourhood. Of the outer wall little but the lowest course remains some of the stones composing it being over 3' in length & from 18" to 2' high. The interior is equally demolished & the outline of the wall is only ascertainable with difficulty. The Interior diameter has been about 31'.6" and the thickness of the walls 13'. The entrance has been from the SE [South East] and seems to have been about 3' wide [Continued on page 164]
gb0551ms-36-8-164 [Page] 164 [Continued from page 163] [Sketch inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-164a [Page] 164 [Continued from page 163] through a passage 13' in length. The door checks if any existed have gone & the sides are much ruined There have been chambers on both sides entering from the passage, that on the right about 6'.4" in from the exterior that on the left perhaps a little further in. The right hand chamber is entered by a passage through the wall 1'.8" wide and about 4' long. The chamber itself has been about 10' long but as the roof & outer wall are gone its other dimensions are unobtainable. The passage into the chamber on the left seems to have been about 2'.6" in length & 2' broad. The chamber has been about 7' long and only about 2'.8" broad, but its ruined state makes these measurements rather unreliable as its original form. Some 4' S [South] of the end of it is the back wall of another chamber still 6' high and 4'.10" wide. Its length is unascertainable with certainty as the W. [West] end is blocked up with ruins but it appears to have been about 7' and a continuation for other 8' Westward of its S. [South] wall most probably indicates the position of the stair. 5'.6" further W. [West] is the S. [South] end of another small chamber which has been about 4' wide, & is filled with stones. Following the curve of the wall from the E [East] side of the entrance the back of a chamber [Continued on page 165]
gb0551ms-36-8-165 [Page] 165 [Continued from page 164] lying to the N. [North] is met with at about 44'.6". It has a width of about 5' but as the wall on the outside or N.E. [North East] is perpendicular & built against the rounded wall at the back it has probably been originally wider. 3'.6" to the E [East] of it is the end wall of another chamber running SE. [South East] for 13'. The outer wall here also presents the same feature as in the previous case. The span of the original roof has probably been too great and an additional wall has been necessary for its support. The present greatest width of this chamber is about 3'.6". It was very warm as I started off to look for the shepherd's cairns to the N. [North] of Cnoc Neill about 1 1/4 m. [miles] to N.E. [North East]. I stepped out over bog & heather & though I wandered all around & beyond the spot he indicated I could see no sign of them so after en: :joying a view from the top of a hill to the N. [North] of Cnoc Neill 900ft. [feet] up I turned my steps towards Loch Beannoch where Harry Butler & Jocelyn were fishing & joined them there about 4.0. I fished for an hour & got 1 trout. There are very fine trout in this loch being frequently caught up to 2 lbs [pounds] but they are very dour! [Continued on page 166]
gb0551ms-36-8-166 [Page] 166 [Continued from page 165] Rogart. 29th June. Bicycled to Dalnessie 9 miles off, at the edge of the Duke's deer forest at the head of the Brora. Called on the keeper who told me of one or two objects on the Black Water &c. & then set off over some rough hummocky moorland for 2 m. [miles] due E. [East]. On the S. [South] slope of the hill between the Allt na Inse Mor & the rivulet to the E [East] of it and about 3/4 m [mile] N. [North] of the Brora is a group of "tumuli" and hut circles. At the SE. [South East] end of the group near the W [West] bank of the burn is a mounded construction with an opening 7' across towards the N. [North] with a cup shaped depression in the centre 7' from N. to S. [North to South] and 5' across the bottom of which is 2'.6" below the top of the mound and a few inches lower than the level of the ground outside. The edge of the hollow is 2' in from the outer edge. The enclosing mound is 14' and the length of the whole construction from N. to S. [North to South] 22'. [Margin - Sketch inserted] The cairns which lie along the hillside for several hundred yards W. [West] are of the usual type from 12' - 18' dia. [diameter] and from 1' - 2'.6" high. The hill abounds in large boulders & the cairns seem to have been constructed of rather larger stones than usual. The end of one cairn is a boulder 4' long & 2' high with [Continued on page 167]
gb0551ms-36-8-167 [Page] 167 [Continued from page 166] another 2' x 2'. next it. Within 5' of this cairn is a hut circle measuring about 19' x 22. There is a break in the circumference directly opposite the cairn towards the E [East] but from the form the original entrance seems to have been as usual to SE. [South East]. Towards the N. [North] end of the group about 100 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of the old sheep stell is another mounded con: :struction with its entrance to the E. [East]. The interior measures 11' to entrance x 7' across. The enclosing mound is about 12' thick on the N. [North] side and thins away to either side of the entrance, forming the sides of a passage about 4' long and 1'.8" wide, faced with stone, for 4' on one side and 2' on the S. [South] or left side. A large earth fast boulder has been utilised to form part of the bank on the S.W. [South West]. There appears to have been a passage [Margin - Sketch inserted] broken through the back to the N. [North] of this boulder. Some 40' N. [North] of the last is a small circular enclosure with an interior diameter of about 7' and an entrance towards the E [East] 1'.4" across. The enclosing bank of earth & stones about 5' thick. About 60' W [West] are the remains of another similar enclosure. What relation have these to the ordinary hut circles? The cairns seem equally associated with both. The people among the hills are [Continued on page 168]
gb0551ms-36-8-168 [Page] 168 [Continued from page 167] most kind and hospitable. On my way home I met a nice looking watcher, Elphinston by name, who had been a water bailiff on the Helmsdale he took me to his house & gave me a tumbler of milk and when I got back to Dalnessie, Mrs. Mackay the wife of the keeper had prepared tea for me with an egg so by the time I reached Fairlachd where Jocelyn & her father had been fishing I felt quite fresh. 30th June 1909. Took the public motor to Tutim in Strath Oykell 2 1/4 miles beyond Invercassley to see a standing stone mentioned by Mr. Mackenzie called Clach an' Fhithicht. Neither the shepherd nor Murray the water bailiff who joined me knew anything about it so I was unable to find it. We visited an old enclosure about 150 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the shepherd's house showing low long mounds in the centre said on that account to be an old grave yard but I doubt it. The actual graveyard stands on the top of a bank about (?) 350 yds [yards] E. [East] of the shepherd's house. It contains a number of old stones few of which have any devices or inscriptions on them. In the NW [North West] corner is a grave slab on the top of a modern grave. It is of the native schist, 4' long x 1'.7" broad, and has incised on its surface [Continued on page 169]
gb0551ms-36-8-169 [Page] 169 [Continued from page 168] a plain Latin long-shafted Celtic cross with the arms expanded to the extremities and the angles at the intersection hollowed. The ends of the arms are straight and the base of the stem is rounded. The full length of the cross is 3' breadth across arms 1'.6" width of shaft, 5" arms 8" in length expand: :ing from 4" to 5". [Margin - Sketch inserted] Caisteal na Coire. In a lowlying meadow almost formed into an island by the Oykell and a creek which runs W. [West] for about 1/4 m. [mile] are the fragmentary ruins of a small rectangular building. The NW [North West] wall has entirely disappeared and the other walls are much ruined and no details of the structure remain. The exterior measurements appear to have been about 29' x 23' and the thickness of the walls 7'. There is no sign of vaulting. The castle seems to have been encircled by a ditch. The mounds noted by Mr. Mackenzie near Achness Falls on the right bank of the Cassley are natural. The rabbit burrows show that they are sandy. From Invercassley it is a beautiful walk through the woods of Rosehall and up the hillside to Altass Mor, 1/4 m [mile] beyond the P.O. [Post Office] on a piece of moorland [Continued on page 170]
gb0551ms-36-8-170 [Page] 170 [Continued from page 169] about 150 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the road is a small group of four or five cairns of the usual sort. On the moor to the N. [North] of Altass Mor and directly to the W. [West] of the cultivated fields are a considerable number of small cairns and the remains of a hut circle. Proceeding N. [North] for about a mile & half on the S.W. [South West] slope of the Doir a' Chatha about the 700 ft. [feet] level and just above the enclosed land is a large group of cairns and hut circles. Just above the most E. [East] of the crofts is a circle of the usual type with an entrance SE. [South East] overgrown with heather. Near the upper side of the enclosed piece of moor: :land directly behind the Eastmost croft is a hut circle measuring interiorly 23' x (about) 27'. The bank at the entrance has gone & only one of the stones of the outside end remains at 32' from back of circle. 8 cairns or so lie around. About 40' S.E [South East] of the entrance to the circle and with its convex side towards it is a crescentic mound 12' in thickness at centre, 30' between the points of the crescent and with a concavity of 10'. Some 30' N. [North] of the N.W. [North West] end of the enclosure behind the Eastmost croft is a mounded con: :struction covered over with heather. It is oval [Continued on page 171]
gb0551ms-36-8-171 [Page] 171 [Continued from page 170] in form with its longest axis N.W. and S.E. [North West and South East] measuring 19' x 35'. Externally it is from 18" to 2' high. From the E [East] a narrow passage leads with a curve to the interior, gradually expanding to a width of 3'.7", where it terminates at 9' from the outside; and sloping downwards till the floor level at the back is 2' deep. Two large stones with flat faces to the chamber form the back wall, the largest stone being 2' high & 2' across. The [Margin - Sketch inserted] centre of this back wall is 19' from the S.E. [South East] edge and 12' from the NW. [North West]. The breadth of mound behind it is 10' About 1/2 m. [mile] W. [West] close beside the farm house of Doir a Chatha are the remains of the broch. It is now a structureless heap of ruins from which the most of the large stones have been removed. It has apparently been of great size & the ruin measures 106' across but as no walls are visible the actual dimensions of the structure are not obtainable. Mr. Stewart the crofter invited me into his house & refreshed me with milk while we discussed the iniquities of the government! His idea that Scotland should be provided with a fort like Gibraltar for which there were many excellent sites was rather original. He saw me on my [Continued on page 172]
gb0551ms-36-8-172 [Page] 172 [Continued from page 171] way to Achurigill where Jocelyn awaited me with a motor and we parted regretting that my wandering footsteps were not likely to take me again to Doir a Chatha. It has been an exquisite day. The hawthorn is in full blossom, beds of wild thyme empurple the grassy banks by the roadside and the first flowers of the bell heather are coming out. Strath Oykell in its lower reaches is beautifully wooded. Natural Scotch firs of great size are dotted along the hillside near Tutim and in the woods of Rosehall there is great variety of timber. 1st July. A lovely morning. Rode on my bicycle to the broch near Dalchork. It is situated on the left hand bank of the Tirry on the top of a knoll which rises to a height of about 30' above the river from the flat haugh along side. The numerous sheep drains show that the surrounding land was formerly boggy, and must have added to the defensibility of the site. Towards the river the slope is abrupt and on the S. [South] the edge of the mound has been scarped to a height of about 6' and a short distance from its base the ruins of a wall curve round westward towards the river bank. On the N. and E. [North and East] sides coming up to the [Continued on page 173]
gb0551ms-36-8-173 [Page] 173 [Continued from page 172] edge of the broch are considerable remains of enclosures which are probably original as the slope of the mound in these directions is not steep and there are no other signs of outer defences. The broch itself has occupied the centre of the flat summit but is now a structureless mass showing no wall faces or other measurable details & from which all the larger stones appear to have been removed. It does not appear to have been of exceptional size. About 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of a point 1 1/4 along the branch road to Dalnessie on the S. [South] slope of the hill across the Feith Osdail occupying the summit of a slight grassy elevation are the remains of a circular construction. In the centre is a well defined circle of contiguous boulders from 12" to 3' in length and at largest 2' broad & about 1' in height. The diameter is about 12' interiorly and the entrance has been towards the E. [East]. The width of the entrance is not accurately obtainable as a detached stone lies in it but it cannot have been more than 2' and was possibly less. At 16' from the centre of the construction towards the N. & N.E. [North & North East] are the [Continued on page 174]
gb0551ms-36-8-174 [Page] 174 [Continued from page 173] remains of an outer circle approximately concentric, connected with the inner circle by a line of boulders which curves round towards the N. [North] side of the inner entrance. 7' N. [North] of the entrance another line of stones extends directly to the outer circum: :ference, and 3' further N. [North] there is a small bed of stones projecting 3'.6" into the space between the circles. There is a suggestion of round chambers being enclosed within these cross lines but without excavation the plan is only indefinitely obtainable. At about 21' E.N.E. [East North East] of the centre is a large standing stone 4' high and 2' across its base set with its broad face parallel with what appears to be the line of the entrance to the inner enclosure and from its outer edge the foundation of a wall appears to run N.E [North East] for 8 ft. [feet] and turning NW. [North West] forms the circumference of a third circle, also approximately concentric about 34' from the common centre. Four large boulders, with their flat faces inwards stand in the line of this circumference towards the N and NE. [North and North East] 34' from centre at N.E [North East] and 38' at N. [North]. Southward of the standing stone [Margin - Sketch inserted] the line of the outer circumf. [circumference] swings outward again and towards the S.E [South East] is 27' from centre. Beyond SSE. [South South East] it is lost. [Continued on page 175]
gb0551ms-36-8-175 [Page] 175 [Continued from page 174] The surface is overgrown with turf and the plan difficult to make out. I made a slight excavation near the centre of the inner circle removing a turf with my knive and 6" to 8" below found a considerable amount of charcoal. About 20' E [East] is a flat topped mound from the edge of which many large stones protrude. On another grassy hillock about 120 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] is a foundation of a structure 20' long rectangular towards S. [South] end where it is 8' wide interiorly and with a rounded addition at the N. [North] end 7' from N to S [North to South] x 11' across. In the interior of the latter is foundation of a circular chamber of 5' dia. [diameter]. On ruins of next knoll about 30 yds. [yards] E. [East] are ruins of a small rectangular enclosure about 6' sq. [squared]. On another hillock about 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of the first circle is a structure overgrown with grass with apparently an entrance to the W. [West] measuring 28' x 31' and in outline resembling an ordinary hut circle. The outline of founda: :tions plainly indicated below the turf show that the back half has been divided up into several small circular enclosures. There appears to have been an entrance into one of the small chambers at the back from the N. [North]. In rear [Continued on page 176]
gb0551ms-36-8-176 [Page] 176 [Continued from page 175] of the construction are two small round enclosures facing each other open towards S. and N. [South and North] respectively 5' int. dia. [interior diameter] & 3' across opening. About 30 yds. [yards] W.N.W. [West North West] of the first mentioned con: :struction is probably the remains of another similar overgrown with grass. From the centre of what appears to be the interior circle at about 8" below present level I found charcoal. On a knoll about 120 yds [yards] NW [North West] of the first con: :struction are the confused ruins of a circular building. The surface is so covered with stones that the plan is difficult to determine. It appears to have been a dry stone structure with diameter over all of from 29' to 30' with various small chambers of from 4' to 6' interior diameter in the thickness of the walls. The thickness between the chamber & outside of wall is in each case 6' and there appears to have been considerable thickness between the chambers themselves. Two small circular constructions of about 8' dia. [diameter] over all have abutted on the N and W. [North and West]. The entrance is not apparent in the present state of ruin but it has probably been from the E. [East]. From the SE [South East] a wall has curved round towards the E [East] for 70' then turned westward for about 24' and in the direction of its [Continued on page 177]
gb0551ms-36-8-177 [Page] 177 [Continued from page 176] termination a cross wall has curved out for 15' from the SE. [South East] wall thus forming an enclosure with an entrance 15' wide. There are no cairns anywhere visible in the neighbourhood of these ruins. [Margin - Sketch inserted] On the left bank of the Feith Osdail about 1 1/2 m. [miles] above its junction with the River Tirry are the foundations of a trilobed structure similar to that above Loch Coire nam Feuran (p. [page] 13). It is [sketch inserted here] formed of 3 small circular enclosures 2 in line facing N & S [North & South] respectively and the 3rd, on the E [East] apparently facing the entrance, on the E. [East]. The enclosures are about 4' from front to back & about 5' wide at entrance. The distance between the W. [West] points of the opposite enclosure is 9'. And from the same points to the centre of the back line of the E. [East] circle measures 16' at the N. [North] and 14' on S. [South]. The walls seem to have been only about 1'.6" across & were built without mortar. The whole is much overgrown with grass. About 10' S.W. [South West] are the remains of a small rectangular enclosure, measuring 8' x 6' interiorly - and about 30' E [East] are the founda: :tions of another, apparently rectangular measuring 7' x 9'. About 1/4 m. [mile] S. [South] 100 yds. [yards] or so, to S. [South] of road to Dalnessie is a small group of cairns, a hut circle of ordinary type [Continued on page 178]
gb0551ms-36-8-178 [Page] 178 [Continued from page 177] and a small mounded construction of usual character between two parallel mounds. 2nd July. As I have gone deaf in my right ear I visited the doctor this morning & had it syringed. When I told him what I was doing he amused me by remarking "I am afraid you won't find much round Lairg." He was rather sur: :prised when I told him of cairns &c. lying within a stone's throw of his own door. After writing up notes I bicycled to Lairg station & walked to the stone circle near Achinduich. It is situated on the hill side about 150 ft. [feet] above the road and 1/4 m. [mile] due S. [South] and nearly the same distance NE [North East] of the shepherd's cottage. There has been an outer and inner circle. Of the outer circle 5 consecutive stones remain from N.E. to S.S.W. [North East to South South West] those on the E [East] side & S. [South] having been removed. The diameter has been 28'. The stones have been set with their broad faces at right angles to the line of the circumference. The largest stone, that at the NE. [North East] is 4' high above ground, 3' wide at base and about 1' thick, has a sharp edge to the interior of the circle and slightly tapers to the top. Counting from NE. to S by W. [North East to South by West]. No. 2 is a similar stone to No. 1 3' across 4' high & nearly 2' thick. It is 8' distant from No. 1. No. 3 is 11' distant from No. 2 is slightly tilted at NE. [North East] measures 3' wide, is exposed for a height of 3'.8" and is about 1' thick. No. 4 [Continued on page 179]
gb0551ms-36-8-179 [Page] 179 [Continued from page 178] is 10' distant from No. 3 is 3' broad, 3'.4" high and about 14" thick at centre. No. 5 - 6' further on is a rectangular block about 3'.1" high and in thickness 1'3" x 1'. Of the inner circle only three stones remain at about 5' within the circumference of the outer circle, & approximately concentric with it, and within the existing one. The most Southerly stone is situated North by W [West] of the most Southerly stone of the outer circle (No. 5) and is a stone of similar character. It is a tall block, rectangular in section measuring 1'.4" x 8" with its broad face at right angles to the line of the circumference and is 3' high. It has evidently been interfered with and recently propped up. No. 2 Northwards has been similarly set, but is tilted over, is exposed for a length of 2'.4", is 1'.3" across and 6" thick. It is about 4' distant from No. 1. No. 3 is a broad flat pointed slab set with its face in line of the circumference 2'.6" across base 7" thick & exposed for 1'.10" and is about 4' from No. 2. There is a depression in the centre as if the interior had been excavated and a slight mound on the E. [East] side tends to con: :firm this. There are no tumuli or hut circles immediately near though they occur on the slope below nearer the road. [Continued on page 180]
gb0551ms-36-8-180 [Page] 180 [Continued from page 179] [Sketch inserted with text, transcribed on following page] - Stone circle 1/4 m. [mile] NE [North East] of Shepherd's house at Achinduich Lairg
gb0551ms-36-8-180a [Page] 180 [Continued from page 179] Walking on to the cottage I found the shepherd and a friend sitting outside. Taking a seat on a bench beside them I had a talk with them about the ancient objects on their herdings. The shepherd of the house, bore the name of Sinton and from Sinton near Hawick his parents had come to the north, while the father of his friend who was a Jackson came from Fairloan near Jedburgh. I was given the usual tumbler of milk for which I was most grateful as the day was oppressively sultry and as the shepherds were going my way we set off together. About 3/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of Achinduich Lodge at the edge of a birch wood between the road and the railway about 150 yds [yards] W [West] of the former Sin: :ton drew my attention to a circular enclosure. It is surrounded by the base of a strong bank or wall well defined on the outer and inner circumference with large contiguous boulders. It appears to have been subdivided in the interior into numerous chambers but as it is entirely overgrown with turf and bracken the such an interpretation of the visible ridges is mere conjecture. The interior diameter from N to S. [North to South] is 51' from E to W. [East to West] 48'. The thickness of the walls is 10' and 14' on either side of the entrance which is 3' wide & towards the W. [West]. [Continued on page 181]
gb0551ms-36-8-181 [Page] 181 [Continued from page 180] On the right bank of the Radoich burn a short distance E. [East] of the railway is a great heap of iron slag, about 30' across and 4' high. Crossing the Shin by a suspension bridge I walked on to Achany through beautiful birch woods along the bank of the river, and sought out Campbell the forester, a most intelligent man with whom I had previously corresponded. On the way to examine the cairn he had mentioned at Ballefeur "As we were there anyway" he drew my attention to something which had often puzzled him. It turned out to be a fine chambered cairn. It is situated on the right bank of the Gruidie immediately to the E [East] of the road below Achany. It has been much dilapidated and there are signs of structures nearby which must have been built out of it. The chamber is fully exposed. The diameter of the cairn appears to have been about 56' along the direction of the chamber (i.e. N.E and S.W) [North East and South West] and 69' across it. The front of the cairn towards the N. [North] is marked by a kerb of large stones with an upright pointed stone to the N. [North] of the chamber. The front follows the curve of the circumference but about 7' inwards from what is probably the end of the entrance passage [Continued on page 182]
gb0551ms-36-8-182 [Page] 182 [Continued from page 181] is the centre of a crescentic setting of large flat slabs, rounded on the top, four in number set with their broad faces towards the front of the cairn. The stones are four in number, 3 of them measuring from 3'.6" to 4'.6" across, (the fourth being somewhat smaller) by about 14" thick and projecting from 1'.6" to 2" above the cairn. They are set 2 on either side of the position of the entrance passage but it is possible that there may originally have been more as the outer stone on the NW [North West] is much further from the edge than that on the NE. [North East]. The centre pair are 6'.6" apart and the extreme points of the outer stones 22' apart. The chamber is roughly rectang: :ular 12'.9" long, and has been divided by partition stones, (one only of which remains, on the W [West] side) at 6' from the back wall forming two compartments, the inner or Southmost measuring 6' x 5'.2" in breadth, and the outer 4'.11" long by 4'.2" broad. The partition stone projects 2'.1" into the interior is 2'.1" high and 1'.5" thick. At the N. [North] end of the chamber is a lintel 3'.4" long 2' broad and 9" thick supported on the single stones 1'.10" high and covering an entrance 2'.10" wide. The main axis of the back compartment is NNE. [North North East] and SSW. [South South West] but the sides of the outer compartment have been inclined so as to give it a northerly direction. [Continued on page 183]
gb0551ms-36-8-183 [Page] 183 [Continued from page 182] Four large flat slabs form the walls of the back compartment. One on the W and S [West and South] respectively and two on the E. [East]. The W [West] slab is 5' across & 4' high the back one 4'.8" across, 4'.3" high and 15" thick the S.E. [South East] slab 3' across x 2'.7" high. The fourth slab has fallen forward owing to the removal of the partition stone. The outer compartment has a single large slab on either side, that [Margin] Sketch inserted to the W. [West] 3'.5" long x 2'.1" high, that to the E [East] 4'.6" long x 3'.3" high. The interspaces between the slabs is as usual filled with neat horizontal building. About 1/2 m. [mile] due N. [North] of Achany House towards the SE. [South East] end of Druim Ballefeur is a round cairn with a diameter of some 55' from N to S. [North to South] and 51'.6" from E to W. [East to West] and about 5'.9" high. Towards the SW. [South West] a portion of the cairn has been apparently removed 8'.6" along the circumfer: :ence 3' at back and for 6'.6" inwards. In rear of this a clearing [Margin] Sketch inserted of 7' diameter has been made probably for a shelter. Neither cist or chamber has been exposed. Rather more than 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] & about 1/2 m. [mile] S [South] of the shepherd's house at Raemore on a slight elevation is another cairn. It is elliptical in outline with its longest axis E & W. [East & West] measuring 54' x 37'. Height about 6'. [Continued on page 184]
gb0551ms-36-8-184 [Page] 184 [Continued from page 183] The cairn has been pulled about a little in the centre but no cist or chamber has been exposed. About 8 small cairns lie to the E. [East]. 3rd July. Hired a boat & with Mary & Jocelyn rowed along the loch to the plantation to visit a construction. It is situated just within the plantation wall about 3/4 m. [mile] due N. [North] of the summit of the Ord and has been a broch with a diameter over all of about 56'. The walls have been removed almost to the lowest course and no details are obtainable. The thickness of the walls appears to have been 15' but the inner facing is indefinite. On the shore of the narrow strait which connects the inner loch with the main loch beyond is much iron slag. The position of the deposit is about 200 yds [yards] E [East] of the broch and as the inner loch has been artificially formed was in former times probably on the side of a river running out of Loch Shin. In the afternoon I took Hector Forbes to Balle: :feur to measure the stone circle & uncover the overgrown stones of it but before we could start measuring it came on so wet that we had to desist & return home. 4th July. Sunday. To prevent my getting into arrears with my notes I have been working [Continued on page 185]
gb0551ms-36-8-185 [Page] 185 [Continued from page 184] almost all day from 10.0 to 6.0 with an interval of from 1.0 to 5.0. It is too much but it is impossible to avoid it there is such an immense amount of unrecorded material. 5th July. Obtained the assistance of a youth and returned to Druim Ballefeur to survey the stone circle &c. It is situated towards the W. [West] side of the moor near the edge of the slope down towards the Gruidie and about 3/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of Rae: :more. It has been formed of 10 stones of which 9 remain in situ or fallen, one has been removed but large pieces of it have been left where it stood probably knocked off in dressing it. [Sketch inserted here] Sc. [Scale] 35' to 1" [Continued on page 186]
gb0551ms-36-8-186 [Page] 186 [Continued from page 185] It is irregular in outline as several of the stones are evidently out of position especially towards the NE. [North East]. The stone at the N. [North] point has gone but fragments of it remain on the site. The diameter has been about 88'. The stones are large, thick, syenite boulders sunk deep in the peat, some have fallen. They seem to have been set with their broad faces in line of the circumference. (Full measurements &c. in notebook). Some 60' W. [West] of the circle is a cairn covered with turf standing on the edge of a declivity that runs to the Grudie. It is about 40' in diameter including a platform or base of from 7' to 10' in width on which it appears to stand. It is 6' high from the edge of the outer circumference and 4' at about 10' - 12' ft. [feet] from the centre. Some 180 yds [yards] S.W. [South West] of the cairn is a hut circle with the entrance towards the SE. [South East] measuring interiorly 31' x 37'. The faces of the encircling bank are well marked with boulders laid end to end and the bank appears to have been from 8' to 10' across. About 100 yds [yards] SSE. [South South East] of the hut circle is a mound which I believe to be a cairn overgrown with grass having a diameter of about 25' and 2'.3" high. On its NW. [North West] face three large pointed stones stand in line of the circumference, (the [Continued on page 187]
gb0551ms-36-8-187 [Page] 187 [Continued from page 186] largest 2'.2" high & 2'.2" broad at base & 1' thick) with their broad faces outwards. Three similar stones lie as if displaced, in the line of the circumference towards the S. [South]. About 100 yds [yards] SE [South East] are three cairns of 18' - 20' diameter and 2' - 3' high. A hut circle with entrance SW. [South West] lies about 100 yds [yards] E [East] of the single cairn. The inner line of the wall is marked by pointed stones, the highest about 2', projecting at irregular intervals. The enclosure is circular with diameter of 26'. The width of the entrance is not ascer: :tainable. On the hill between Gruids and the road from Lairg to Bonar Bridge on the W. [West] side of the Shin are a number of hut circles and cairns About 100 yds [yards] from the road is a group of about 8 cairns and a hut circle through which a roadway has been cut. One cairn about 30' W. [West] of the hut circle measures about 30' x 26' and is about 2' high. Another hut circle lies about 100 yds [yards] SW [South West] of the first measuring 19' x 24' interiorly with Entrance towards SE. [South East]. The banks are more stony than usual and measure about 6' across. A group of 4 or 5 cairns lies to SW. [South West]. About a 1/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of the W [West] end of the suspen: :sion bridge over Shin near Lairg railway station [Continued on page 188]
gb0551ms-36-8-188 [Page] 188 [Continued from page 187] on the top of a sharp decline towards the E [East] is a hillock which seems to be a cairn though as it is overgrown with heather I am not absolutely certain. It is almost circular, measuring 33' from N to S [North to South] and 35' from E to W. [East to West] and is about 5' high. On a slight rise about 30 yds [yards] S. [South] of the site of the broch in the plantation to the N. [North] of the Ord is a circular enclosure overgrown with heather whose dimen: :sions are in consequence not accurately ob: :tainable but the interior diameter appears to be about 25'. Just finished as it settled down to rain. Left Lairg in the evening for Dornoch. 6th July. A wet day and glad of a rest. Walked to the cathedral and there met Mr Bentinck the Minister who took us round. The church is described in Eccles. Arch. [Ecclesiastical Architecture]. Within it at the W. [West] end of the nave lie the mutilated remains of a recumbent effigy on the top of a sarcophagus. The figure is believed to represent Sir Richard de Moravia brother of Bishop Gilbert founder of the Cathedral (? slain at the battle of Embo). It is shown as clad in chain mail covered with a jupon showing a bordered edge at the neck and arm holes. The head of the figure resting on a small square cushion is detached, the upper part broken off and the features gone. The arms [Continued on page 189]
gb0551ms-36-8-189 [Page] 189 [Continued from page 188] are gone also the lower half of one of the legs and the lower part of the remaining foot. There has apparently been a shield resting on the left breast and the knight has been girt with his sword. The legs have been crossed and have rested on the back of a lion. The full length of the figure is 6'.11". The sarcophagus 7' long, 1'.4" high. 1'.11" wide at head and 1'.6" at foot. The pillow projects 7" beyond the top of the sarcophagus. The Bishop's Palace standing on the opposite side of the street is described in Cast & Dom. Arch. [Castellated & Domestic Architecture]. 7th July. A dull day after much rain at night. Took train to Cambusavie. To the W [West] of the station rises the Cnoc Odhar and at the E [East] end of it about 120 yds [yards] N. [North] of the W. [West] end of the cultivated land are the remains of a large round cairn. From the centre the greater part of the stones have been removed exposing the slabs that form the W [West] side of the chamber which does not, however, appear to have been cleared out. The ends of several large stones protrude through the turf showing the extent. The dimensions of the cairn have been 62' from NE to SW [North East to South West] and 69' from SE to N.W. [South East to North West]. The main axis of the chamber has been along the former [Continued on page 190]
gb0551ms-36-8-190 [Page] 190 [Continued from page 189] direction. There has probably been an outer chamber or compartment in the same line towards the NW. [North West] where several large displaced stones are lying, two of which opposite each other are 2'.6" and 3' long respectively and lie with their ends 1'.4" apart. The main chamber is reached at some 25' from the SE [South East] edge. It has been polygonal in form about 7' long by 6'.6" broad. Of the slabs exposed that towards the SW. [South West] is about 5' across, 3'.8" high above ground on outside and 1'.4" in the interior. About 20' to the N. [North] are the remains of a hut circle partially demolished and the site of another about 50' W. [West] of it. Both appear to have been of the ordinary type. There are a few small cairns in their neighbourhood but the hill at this part is overgrown with whins and they are difficult to find. About 3/4 m. [mile] WNW. [West North West] a track from Cambusavie joins the hill road to Achneal. To the E. [East] of the junction and above the road is a group of about a dozen cairns of the usual small type. One however is sub oval measuring 22' x 12' with its longest axis NE. and SW. [North East and South West]. A few hundred yards nearer Achneal just to the W. [West] of the wire fence and above the road is a large cairn sub oval in form, with its longest axis [Continued on page 191]
gb0551ms-36-8-191 [Page] 191 [Continued from page 190] E and W. [East and West]. It is 70' in length, 43' across at the E [East] end and 26' at the W. [West]. About 19' from the E. [East] it expands to 53' across forming lugs on either side about 11' across. This peculiarity seems quite distinct on the N. [North] side but the partial demolition of the cairn on the S. [South] renders it less obvious. At the W. [West] end it is only a foot or two in height and it has risen towards the E. [East] but as it has been considerably dilapidated in that direction it is impossible to say where its greatest elevation was. At height it is about 6' high. No chamber or cist has been exposed. Some 150 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of the cairn is a hut circle of unusual type. Towards the N. [North] is an enclosure 19' across and 18' long rounded at the N. [North] and adjoining it towards the S. [South] opening off it and formed by a continuation of the E. [East] wall, a similar enclosure 12' wide and 19' long and at its N. [North] end where it opens on the first enclosure 9' across. A cairn: :like mound of earth and stone 7' wide separates this from the entrance which is 2' wide, and 10' long - flanked on the W [West] or left side by a small circular compartment entering 7' from the exterior through a passage about 3' long [Continued on page 192]
gb0551ms-36-8-192 [Page] 192 [Continued from page 191] of about 4' interior diameter. The N [North] wall of this com: :partment being continuous with the W. [West] wall of the first enclosure. Abutting on the outer wall towards the NW [North West] is a small circular compartment with an interior diameter of about 6'.6". The walls of the structure have been entirely of undressed stone, built without mortar, about 4'.6" in thickness except on side of the entrance. (Fig) [Figure]. About 200 yds. [yards] WNW. [West North West] of the cairn is a circular enclosure with wall 13' in thickness built of large stones (undressed). The entrance towards the NW. [North West] on either side of which for a distance of 10' towards the E [East] and 9' towards the W [West] the wall has been thickened to 18' feet. The passage is 1'.6" across. On the NW [North West] is a round recess in the thickness of the wall 4' across and 4' deep and entering from the interior on the right of the entrance another 4' deep and 3' across with signs of another similar in situation and dimension on the opposite side. To the E [East] side of the centre of the interior is a built hearth of stone of about 3' interior diameter partially enclosed by a wall still at the back about 18" high. The wall enclosing the whole structure is at most 2' high. The interior is overgrown with brackens. (Fig.) [Figure]. Some 100 yds [yards] W [West] of the last is another similar construction with well defined [Continued on page 193]
gb0551ms-36-8-193 [Page] 193 [Continued from page 192] circular recesses in the thickness of the walls. The interior diameter is about 25'. The thickness of the walls about 13' expanding on either side of the entrance to 21' The details of the interior of the structure are difficult to determine. From the end of the entrance a bed of stones extends into the interior towards the S.E. [South East] expanding from about 5' to 9' across with a length of about 18'. The E [East] side of this bed is 2' distant from the interior wall opposite and it appears to divide the structure into two main compartments. In the thickness of the wall at the S. [South] of the interior are two semicircular recesses that at the E [East] side about 4' - 5' dia. [diameter] & that towards the W. [West] about 3' - 4'. The entrance is towards NW [North West] (Fig ) [Figure]. About 50 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the last is a ruined structure the walls of which are formed of boulders about 8' in thickness. Its total length is 46' and its main features a circular enclosure at either end. It lies N & S. [North & South]. The enclosure at the N. [North] end measures 15'.6" across x 13' in length interiorly that at the S. [South] 10' x 11'.6", the connecting portion being about 8' wide & apparently divided into compartments. There is an outer enclosure abutting on it at the NW [North West] about 18' in length & expanding [Continued on page 194]
gb0551ms-36-8-194 [Page] 194 [Continued from page 193] [Sketches and text inserted, transcribed on following page] - cf. Vol II [Volume 2]. p. [page] 48.
gb0551ms-36-8-194a [Page] 194 [Continued from page 193] [Sketches inserted, transcribed on following page]
gb0551ms-36-8-194b [Page] 194 [Continued from page 193] from 4' at N [North] to 8' at W. [West] with an entrance to the S. [South]. The entrance to the main structure appears to have been at the SE. [South East]. There is no sign of a wide entrance as if it had been for cattle. About 40 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the last is a hut circle of about 26' int. dia. [interior diameter] with an entrance about 3' across towards the W. [West] the walls of stone are about 6' thick and 10' on either side of entrance. About 1/4 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the large cairn is a hut circle with its entrance apparently towards the SE. [South East]. The walls are of boulders about 7' across and the interior is about 18' diameter. On either side of the entrance a wall runs outward on the S. [South] side for 20 ft. [feet] from the interior whence it swings back to the flank of the circle enclosing a chamber entering off the passage near its outer end, about 18' in length the passage is only about 1'.4" wide. On the N. [North] side at 20' from the interior the wall is joined also by a wall from the flank of the circle but at a sharper angle and does not appear to enclose a chamber. Thereafter it is carried for an indefinite dis: :tance winding down the hill side (Fig. ) [Figure]. About 300 yds. [yards] E. [East] of Achineal Cottage on the upper side of the road is a hut circle of stone with walls about 7' thick to 10' at entrance. Int. [Interior] diameter 25' [Continued on page 195]
gb0551ms-36-8-195 [Page] 195 [Continued from page 194] entrance towards the NE. [North East]. It has several small rounded recesses in the interior wall. In rear of the shepherd's cottage is a hut circle, a circular enclosure with entrance 5' wide, and a large group of cairns which I must visit again. I was much indebted for assis: :tance to the son of the shepherd Macbeth who helped me to measure all these circles, and I was much refreshed by a jug of milk and bread and butter at the cottage. The son accompanied me back round the N. [North] side of Creag Amail to The Mound and took me to a rock shelter in the E [East] face of the most northerly shoulder directly above the road and some 60 ft. [feet] up. It is absolutely hidden by a large mass of rock which occupies the front of the platform. The shelter is known as Macpherson Cham's Cave. (Cham = crooked) Macpherson being said to have been a free-booter. [Margin] It is easily recognised from below by the growth of ivy which issuing from the shelter clambers over the rock above. There are signs of human occupancy in the soil at the N. [North] end. Mr. Donald McKenzie told me that a brace of pistols were found in the shelter some years' ago. 8 July. Writing notes till 11.30. then set off on my bicycle to Bonar Bridge. On the road-side near Ospisdale Ho. [House] is a tall [Continued on page 196]
gb0551ms-36-8-196 [Page] 196 [Continued from page 195] pointed monolith 11'.2" high above ground. It is quadrangular in section the sides measuring 20", 22", 17" and 11". The S. [South] face is flat and smooth and 5' ft [feet] above the ground a hole 1 1/4" across and 1 3/4" deep has been drilled in it about 1" E [East] of the centre. It is called Clach-a-Chara (Scab stone). About 40 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of Creich Church is a rough unhewn block with a long-shafted Celtic cross incised on the [Margin] See Vol. II [Volume 2] p. [page] 43. NE [North East] face of it. The stone is 6'.10" above ground x 2' wide. The cross is 4'.3" long, the upper arm 10" across the side arms 9", the stem 9" till at 1'.7" from base it contracts to 7" and again swells out at the foot so as to form a "plinth" 4" deep. The angles are hollowed & rounded. At Bonar Bridge I sought out Donald Mac: :kenzie, obtained much information from him and saw his various archaeological treasures which he destines for the Museum. He did not show me much of interest . There is a facetted stone ball which I was inclined to think a forgery from the freshness of the sur: :face, a number of arrow heads & one good spear head of flint, the latter found near Torboll, a celt with holes pierced for attachment which I think must be from New Zealand or the South seas, and a small [Continued on page 197]
gb0551ms-36-8-197 [Page] 197 [Continued from page 196] black celt about 2" in length. He showed me a set of witches stones, 2 of which bore a marvellous resemblance in form & marking to birds eggs. These belonged to a woman reputed a witch who died in 1900. She was supposed to have compassed by the black art the death of a woman who married a former lover of her own five days after her marriage. There is also in the village of Bonar a family who claim to have the power of stopping bleeding at any distance. This power is only inherent in the eldest member male or female and is thoroughly believed in.. 9th July. Called at the Manse in the morning Mr. Bentinck produced a triangular slab of micaceous schist 12" long x 9 1/2" across the base showing 5 well defined cup marks and portions of other three at the broken edge of the stone. Towards the apex of the triangle is a single cup mark 1 1/8" dia. [diameter] with another below it 2 1/4" dia. [diameter] x 1/2" deep and where the triangle broadens a row of three with the other row parallel at the edge. He has also [Margin -Sketch inserted] a stone lamp with a mould for a chisel like object curved along its length on the back or underneath side. The cup: [Continued on page 198]
gb0551ms-36-8-198 [Page] 198 [Continued from page 197] :marked stone was at the Manse when Mr. Bentinck came to it two years ago. Though the glass was falling rapidly we set out on our bicycles for Carn Leath near Torboll. The road there is very beautiful, and near Torboll there are quantities of yellow iris flowering by the road side. The scenery by the banks of the Carnachy is lovely. The stream dashes down in cascades of brown water over a rocky bed, overhung with birches and alders while above tower the hills chequered with fresh green patches of bracken among the darker masses of heather. The Minister told me that in Dornoch lives a woman who has the gift of stopping bleeding at any distance from her 'patient' and she is reputed to have saved the life of a man who was bleeding to death from mutilation by a reaping machine. The power is not hereditary in her case but can be handed on by her to a male who must in turn transmit it to a female. He also told me the tale of how Betsy Splunky came to haunt the Camore Wood which few natives will pass after dark. Betsy [Continued on page 199]
gb0551ms-36-8-199 [Page] 199 [Continued from page 198] died of cholera in the early years of last century and was in consequence refused burial in the cemetery. Her poor body was however doubled up, into a tea chest and deposited on the shore for the tide to carry away. A crofter seeking driftwood a short time after was delighted to find a tea chest and lifting it onto his cart bore it homeward but when he reached Camore Wood his curiosity as to the contents could not be restrained so breaking open the lid the contracted corpse of Betsy sprang up and the crofter fled in terror. Betsy came again to Camore Wood from whence she had started and being buried there haunts it at this day! Before we had got safely, but not dryly, across the Carnachy the rain began to fall and soon was very heavy. On the S. [South] face of Carn Liath [inserted] - no hill about 1/3 m. [mile] W. [West] of Torboll and 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Carnachy is a group of cairns rather larger than usual and made of larger stones - one measures 30' x 16' is irregular in outline and the stones forming it are very small as well as very large. Though [Continued on page 200]
gb0551ms-36-8-200 [Page] 200 [Continued from page 199] there is no trace of crofts near these cairns are rather suggestive of gathered stones from cultivated land. Nearby is a hut circle of ordinary type with its entrance to the S.E. [South East] and its longest axis in the same direction, measuring interiorly 26' x 32'. It is overgrown with heather. The enclosing bank is about 8' thick. Some 40' N. [North] is another also entering from SE. [South East] measuring interiorly 17' x 11' longest axis NW & SE. [North West & South East]. About 300 yds. [yards] to the N. [North] higher up the hill about the 500' level is another numerous group of small cairns with a small circle to the S. [South] of the group. The interior of the bank appears to have been faced with stone. The entrance has been to the SE [South East] but its dimensions are indefinite; the interior diameters' 5' x 8'. The bank 6' across. Numerous small cairns lie to the NNW. the most conspicuous is circular about 18' dia. [diameter] and 3'.6" to 4' high. To the NE [North East] of this group on the summit of the hill is a large cairn which has been excavated and the chamber & passage cleared. It is circular with a diameter of about 60'. The chamber is entered by a passage from the SE. [South East] 14'.6" in length and about 2'.4" in width. Access is through two slabs 1'.6" apart covered by a lintel 3' long and 7" deep and 2'.6" above the floor level. The [Continued on page 201]
gb0551ms-36-8-201 [Page] 201 [Continued from page 200] chamber is bipartite divided by two slabs about 3" to 5" thick about 2'.6" high and 2'.4" apart. [Margin] Longest axis NW & SE. [North West & South East] The outer compartment is roughly rectangular 4'.7" in length by 4'.3" wide, the inner polygonal, but not very markedly so, 6'.2" long x 5'.4" wide. The largest slab, on the NE, [North East], is 4'.5" long and the greatest height in the interior to top of the highest slab 3'.6". The spaces between the slabs are filled with horizontal building. It appeared to me as if the end slab and that at the NE [North East] from the similarity of the curve at the points were portions of the same boulder split. The slabs are thinner than usual, & 7' in from the outer end of the passage are two upright stones opposite each other 2'.2" high 2'.5" apart. (Fig.) [Figure]. Immediately to the N. [North] of the large cairn is another group of small cairns and a hut circle. The latter measures 8' x 12' and is enclosed by a bank 6' thick. The entrance appears to have been [Margin Sketch inserted] towards the N.W. [North West] and to have been narrow. The S [South] wall projects 7' so as to flank it. Some 200 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of the large cairn is a cairn with a diameter of 37' and 3' to 3'.6" high. About 40' W. [West] of it is a circular enclosure with interior diameter of about 25' and an [Continued on page 202]
gb0551ms-36-8-202 [Page] 202 [Continued from page 201] [2 sketches with text inserted, transcribed on following page] 1. Plan of chambered cairn - Carn Liath, Torboll. 2. Hut circle - Carn Liath, Torboll.
gb0551ms-36-8-202a [Page] 202 [Continued from page 201] entrance to the NW [North West] about 7' across. There are also indications of a narrow entrance towards the SE. [South East] and of obscure details flanking it. In front to the N.W [North West] of this enclosure is a low oblong cairn lying SE and NW [South East and North West] 38' long. 13' broad at SE [South East] end and 16' at NW. [North West]. Some 200 yds. [yards] SSW. [South South West] of the large cairn at the NW [North West] end of Carn Liath is a well defined circular enclosure with walls of stone about 6' thick faced towards the interior with flat sided boulders set contiguously The interior diameter is 37' ft. [feet]. The entrance is towards the SE. [South East]. Flanking it on the S [South] side is a triangular chamber 10' long and 4' to 4'.6" in width entered from the passage at about 4' from the exterior through an opening 1' to 1'.3" wide. The wall on the opposite side of the main entrance is 7' thick. In the interior to the E [East] of the entrance is a small enclosure set off with boulders abutting on the wall interiorly 4' long x 3' wide. From the S. [South] side of the circle an old ruined wall runs S. [South] for a few yards and then curves away E' [East]wards round the flank of the hill (Fig) [Figure]. At the extreme end of Carn Liath or rather on the lowest slope of An Droighneach at its [Continued on page 203]
gb0551ms-36-8-203 [Page] 203 [Continued from page 202] extreme E. [East] end lies an oval cairn with its longest axis SE and NW. [South East and North West] measuring 60' x 49'. Though much excavation has been done on it neither cist or chamber is exposed. A group of small cairns lies to the SE. [South East]. We had a wet walk through brackens and heather to our bicycles which we had left beneath the birches by the river and then a comfortless ride home in our wet clothes. 10th July. Bicycled up the Evelix to visit the hut circle marked on the hill side near Crockan. There is quite a good road the whole way, and the wild flowers, Burnet roses, Butterfly and sweet scented pink Orchises all very beautiful. Dornoch No. 11 On the E. [East] side of Strath Acha Bhataich nearly 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of the confluence of the (?) Achvaich Burn and Evelix, on the SW. [South West] slope of Creag Liath is a small scattered group of cairns, on a slight eminence a hut circle of the ordinary type with entrance to the S. [South] but its outline too indefinite to make accurate measurement possible. The entrance appears to have been from 4' - 5' wide. [Margin sketch inserted] Some 60 yds. [yards] to the NNW. [North North West] of it is a low artificial mound oval, or kidney shaped, containing an enclosure on the top of it, 13' long x 9' wide opposite the entrance which is towards the SE. [South East]. [Continued on page 204]
gb0551ms-36-8-204 [Page] 204 [Continued from page 203] [Photograph with text inserted, transcribed overleaf] - Earls' Cross, Dornoch
gb0551ms-36-8-204a [Page] 204 [Continued from page 203] Dornoch No. 18 The thickness of the enclosing bank is about 5'. At Dalchiel near Fleuchary 3 m. [miles] E.NE. [East North East] of Dornoch on a piece of waste land between the road and the Erelix are a small cairn and traces of circular enclosures in its vicinity. Lunched at home for the first Saturday for a long time. In the afternoon J. [Jocelyn], Elize, and I walked along the links to the N. [North] of the town. Rather more than 1/2 m. [mile] N.E. [North East] of the town and about 350 yds. [yards] from the shore is situated the Thane's Cross, stated to have been erected there as a memorial of the battle of Embo fought about 1245 in which William E [Earl] of Suther: :land defeated the Danes. It is a tall shaft which has been broken and is now clamped with iron expanded at the head whereon rests a triangle of stone, open in the centre probably a fragment of the original cross. The extreme length is 7'.3 1/2" The edges of the shaft are chamfered and at 4'.1" above the ground is a projecting band 10" deep, relieved on the E. and W [East and West] faces with a shield, that on the E [East] charged with three stars of 5 points (2 and 1) for the E [Earl] of Sutherland that on the W. indecipherable. The breadth of the shaft is 1'.6" its thickness 8 1/2". The cross faces E. & W. [East & West]. It is now enclosed within an iron railing [Continued on page 205]
gb0551ms-36-8-205 [Page] 205 [Continued from page 204] Dornoch No. 20 About 1 1/2 m. [miles] NNE [North North East] of Dornoch on a stretch of waste land overgrown with whins to the W [West] of the railway are the remains of a circular cairn with a diameter of some 44' which has been excavated. Near the centre a cist has been exposed, formed of 4 flat slabs, 4" to 5" in thickness set on edge, measuring interiorly 3'.5" in length, 2'.4" in width and 1'.10" in depth. The slab which still partially covers it is some 6' in length x 2'.4" across the centre and 6" thick. It is of sandstone and presents a crescentic outline on its S. [South] edge, which may have been caused by a fracture when the cist was opened. On the underside of this stone at its W. [West] end is a well defined cup mark about 2 1/2" across and 3/4" deep. Some 2 1/2" to the S. [South] of the cup a shallow groove runs along the centre of the stone from its W [West] end for about 23" curving at its E. [East] extremity towards the S. [South]. There are a number of small hollows on both surfaces which seem to be natural. 12th July. On the W. [West] side of the Westmost of the two tracks which lead N. and S. [North and South] across the Harriet Plantation and some 200 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the road past Lednabirichen is a small circular enclosure surrounded by the base of a wall outlined on both faces with boulders. The [Continued on page 206]
gb0551ms-36-8-206 [Page] 206 [Continued from page 205] walls are 3'.6" thick; the interior about 3' diameter, the entrance from the South through a passage 3' long and 13" to 16" wide. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10 Some 400 yds [yards] into the wood on the W. [West] side of the track is a circular cairn with diameter of about 56' and from 5' to 6' high. It has been broken into in several places but neither cist nor chamber is exposed. About 16' to the N. [North] lies another circular cairn with diameter of about 36' and height of about 3'.6". It has been opened up in places but neither cist nor chamber is exposed. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 19. The hut circle at the W. [West] end of the Lochs' plantation near Proncycroy is no longer recognis: :able. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 2 On the summit of a mound 12'-15' high which has a somewhat artificial appearance occupying the N. [North] extremity of a ridge which runs N' [North]wards from Proncy farm buildings are the frag: :mentary remains of Proncy Castle. Near the centre of a circular enclosure of about 100' diameter surrounded by a rampart or wall with traces of buildings on its inner side, there has been a rectangular keep measur: :ing interiorly some 20' from NE to SW [North East to South West] and 12' wide with walls from 5' to 6' thick. The ruin [Continued on page 207]
gb0551ms-36-8-207 [Page] 207 [Continued from page 206] is overgrown with grass save a detached mass of masonry lying to the S. [South] of it. The entrance to the enceinte appears to have been from the S. [South]. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14 The remains of a cairn at the E. [East] end of the Harriet plantation are so slight as to be negligable. It was very hot and the flies in these planta: :tions most troublesome. Bicycling N' [North]ward for a mile or two we reached Skelbo wood where the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] marks numerous remains. The wood has been recently replanted and among the young spruce and larch trees and heather up to ones knees it was almost impossible to find the cairns &c. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 25 The Broch near the centre of the wood on a slight knoll to the E. [East] of the path which crosses the wood from N. to S. [North to South] on a situ: :ation commanding a fine view of Loch Fleet, and the adjacent shore. It is now a structureless mass of ruins in great measure overgrown with grass and planted over with trees! Neither face of the wall is visible. The diameter over all appears to be about 60 ft. [feet]. At about 17' distant from its base the broch has been surrounded by a rampart or wall now entirely overgrown Towards the NE. [North East] it has [Continued on page 208]
gb0551ms-36-8-208 [Page] 208 [Continued from page 207] crossed by walls 37' apart and has receded further from the broch so as to form an enclosure 37' long by 20' wide. To the E. [East] of this enclosure a break in the rampart and the levelling up of the hollow in rear of it suggest the position of the entrance to the broch. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13 The remains of the cairn in the thick undergrowth & trees we were unable to find. The O.S. [Ordnance Survey] marks many "tumuli" which seem to be of the ordinary class. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1. Skelbo Castle occupies an imposing site overlooking Loch Fleet at the edge of a high bank. The castle is a complete ruin & only of the N. [North] wall does any considerable portion remain. It has occupied the N.W [North West] corner of a walled enclosure and has been a rectangular structure measuring internally 43' from E. to W [East to West] and 29'.6" from N. to S. [North to South] with walls 4'.9" in thickness. The S. [South] walls stand to a height of about 20'. The wall of the enclosure which is 4'.6" in thickness in great measure remains standing. Abutting on the S.W [South West] end of the castle has been a range of buildings now completely ruined. The castle belonged to the family of Sutherland, Lord Duffus. [Continued on page 209]
gb0551ms-36-8-209 [Page] 209 [Continued from page 208] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15. At Coul I parted with Mr Bentinck and went in search of the cairn and hut circle near the farm. The latter is not visible and of the former the remains are no longer of any moment. The good lady who farms the place invited me in to rest and refreshed me with milk. 13th July. With Elize & Cree set out by train at 11.0 for Golspie but when we reached the Mound the weather was so bad and the outlook so unpromising that we returned. In the afternoon with Cree, Rev. [Reverend] Bentinck I visited Camore Wood. Among the trees a short distance SE. [South East] of the E. [East] end of the loch is a standing stone. It is a large monolith of sandstone roughly quadran: :gular at base tapering to a point at its upper extremity. It is 8'.9" in height above the ground, 29" across the W [West] face at base, and 22" on the N. [North]. Some 650 yds. [yards] WSW [West South West] of the W [West] end of the loch and about 1/4 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of Evelix, on a slight elevation about 100 yds [yards] within the wood is a cairn Excavation has been made about its centre and several cartloads of stone at a compara: :tively recent date have been removed from [Continued on page 210]
gb0551ms-36-8-210 [Page] 210 [Continued from page 209] its W [West] side but neither chamber nor cist have actually been exposed, though about 19' in from the circum: :ference on the E. [East] there has been uncovered the head of a large slab 3'.9" long & about 9" thick lying E and W. [East and West]. The cairn has been circular with a diameter of about 47' and its greatest height is about 5'. Some 300 yds [yards] SE. [South East] of the cairn near the centre of the wood at the edge of a clearing is a hut circle of the usual type except at its entrance. It measures interiorly 30' x 34' with entrance from the SE. [South East]. The enclosing banks have been from 5'.6" to 6" in thickness except at the entrance where they have been extended outwards for 10' or 11'. The present width of the entrance is 9' but a tree has been planted in the centre of it and it appears to have been in part dug out. On the top of a knoll about 300 yds [yards] S. [South] is a circular enclosure 28' Int. [Interior] diameter, with banks about 6' thick, and entrance from the NE [North East] 6' wide. The interior has been hollowed out to some extent and in the centre is about 3' below the top of the bank. There are several small cairns & remains of a few ordinary hut circles about the wood [Continued on page 211]
gb0551ms-36-8-211 [Page] 211 [Continued from page 210] at this part but the undergrowth of heather & the planting have obscured the details. There are four enclosures noted on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map in the E. [East] half of the wood as hut circles, which have more the ap: :pearance of cattle enclosures. Their interior diameters are about 40' the banks 5' thick the entrance, from various directions, 7' - 8' wide. Much damage is done to all constructions in woods from planting trees on the top of them. 14th July. Bicycled to Clashmore & called on Mr. Hardie the Skibo factor who told off Macdonald the forester to show me the various objects on the estate. In a field immediately to the W. [West] of the school and about 120 yds [yards] N. [North] of the high road are three large slabs which appear to have formed the end and part of one side of a megalithic chamber in the interior of cairn a portion of which still remains. The main axis of the chamber has been SE and NW. [South East and North West]. The slab which has apparently formed the back wall is 5'.9" across at base, 1'.7" thick & 6'.3" high from ground level. The two slabs remaining on the SE [South East] side are 5'.3" and 12'.7" distant from [Continued on page 212]
gb0551ms-36-8-212 [Page] 212 [Continued from page 211] [Sketch inserted here] the back slab, and are 4'.3" and 5'.8" broad at base. On the NW [North West] side 8'.3" distant from the back slab & 11' from the stone opposite the head of a large stone lying in the direction of the chamber protrudes a few inches from the ground. The cairn has been removed to such an extent that its outline is not obtainable but in rear of the side stones it is still 3' - 4' high. [Margin] Creich In the Coille Poll na H'Airde the wood which lies to the N. [North] of Newton Point are many hut- -circles and tumuli. Some 200 yds [yards] NE [North East] of the pier is a hut circle of ordinary type with its entrance from the SE. [South East] measuring 39' x 45'. The entrance is about 7' across but there is a tree stump in the middle of it rendering its original dimensions uncertain. Some 30 yds [yards] NNW [North North West] of the last is a long low cairn overgrown with blaeberries lying NNW [North North West] & SSE, [South South East], measuring 49' x 15' and about 2' high. Whether this is sepulchral or not it is impossible to say. About 50 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the hut circle is a cairn lying E and W. [East and West] measuring 22' x 15'. Another about 100 yds [yards] E. [East] of the circle is circular with a diameter of about 22' [Continued on page 213]
gb0551ms-36-8-213 [Page] 213 [Continued from page 212] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 28. The hut circle noted on the map, about 1/4 NE [North East] of the end of Newton Point is of the ordinary type with entrance from the SE. [South East] about 2' across interior diameter 27' x 31', banks from 5' to 6' wide. A number of small round cairns lie in its vicinity. On the N. [North] side of the clearing near the centre of the wood is a cairn lying N. and S. [North and South] measuring 22' x 12' and about 3' in height About 50 yds. [yards] N. [North] are the remains of a hut circle. Some 300 yds [yards] S. [South] of Redhouse and almost entirely overgrown with whins are the remains of a cairn which appears to have been circular with a diameter of about 57'. The interior and E [East] side at some remote period have been entirely removed. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 29. The cairn at the Newton Point has been excavated and almost completely carted away for road metal. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 27. The cairn in the Blackwood near the shore has been almost entirely removed. There are two small cairns to W. [West] of it. In this district the cairns &c have been much destroyed and only here and there in the woods do any remain [Continued on page 214]
gb0551ms-36-8-214 [Page] 214 [Continued from page 213] these two have suffered considerable damage from trees having been planted on them. I have obtained from the Doctor further informa: :tion regarding the woman in Golspie who claims the power of stopping bleeding. It seems She gathers herbs and muttering a spell over them turns in the direction of the sufferer. In the parish of Rogart there lives an old woman who is believed to have the evil eye with which she can dry up her neighbours cows or if she looks in the face of a colley makes it no longer any use for sheep herding. Only a few weeks ago she is supposed to have given a demonstration of her powers in a school board election. She has an aged husband whose vote had been canvassed & who after much persuasion consented to allow himself when the polling day arrived to be driven to the poll. By some mistake he was forgotten by the candidate whom he favoured and though he sat arrayed in his best clothes from 10.0' to 4.0 no carriage arrived. So furious grew his dame that at length she called witchcraft to her aid, employed "botchach" (?), and produced con: :fusion by making a "collision" in the [Continued on page 215]
gb0551ms-36-8-215 [Page] 215 [Continued from page 214] election three out of the seven candidates polling the same number of votes! 15th July. J [Jocelyn] ill. Worked at notes all forenoon and in evening walked with Cree to Evelix to examine some standing stones at the edge of a field. They turned out to be the slabs of a chambered cairn but as it was so wet we had to postpone measurements & notes till another day. 16th July. A threatening morning. Trained to the Mound. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 18 Golspie Par. [Parish] About 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of the Mound station in a young plantation of larch trees between the road and the railway is a hut circle. It is circular with an interior diameter of 35' and entrance from SE. [South East]. The enclosing bank is about 6' thick except on either side of the entrance where it expands to 10'. The breadth of the entrance is not obtainable. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15 About 1 1/2 m. [miles] E.N.E [East North East] of The Mound Station to the E [East] of the row of cottages above the wood at Kirkton Quarry is an earth house. It is 37' in length cruciform in plan with a chamber opening out of the main gallery on either side. In direction it runs NNW. [North North West] and SSE. [South South East] following the slope of the hill. Access is [Continued on page 216]
gb0551ms-36-8-216 [Page] 216 [Continued from page 215] obtained to it at the N [North] end and down a flight of 6 or 7 steps 1'.7" across, from the top of which for a distance of three feet the roof has been removed. The main gallery expands to an extreme width of 4' before the side chambers are reached and to a height at the highest point of 6'. On the E [East] side at 15' from the N [North] extremity of the side wall is the entrance to a side chamber 3' wide, and 7'.1" in length, roofed with slabs 4'.11" in height above the present floor level. The end of the chamber is rounded and the walls slightly converge upwards. The intake on the N. [North] side of the entrance to this chamber projects about 1' further into the interior than that on the opposite side. At the S. [South] side of the chamber the width of the main gallery is 3'.4" and it expands to 4'.4" at its greatest width. At its S.E. [South East] extremity 12'.10" from the S.[South] side of the entrance to the E [East] compartment a narrow passage leads through a doorway to the exterior. On either side of the doorway are projecting jambs 1'.4" apart, that on the W [West] side projecting 7" from the passage wall & that on the E. [East] 3". The width of the passage beyond them is 1'.6" and at the exterior 1'.8" and 1'.6" high above present ground level and about 6' in length. Behind the jambs in the interior 16" from the roof are square holes for a bar, that on the [Continued on page 217]
gb0551ms-36-8-217 [Page] 217 [Continued from page 216] W. [West] extending 22" into the wall and that on the E. [East] 17". On the W. [West] side of the main gallery at about 14' from the N. [North] entrance is the entrance to a chamber 2'.2" across The chamber is 7' in length and 3'.5" at widest 4'.11" high, with a roof formed of overlapping slabs. The intake for the entrance on the S. [South] projects about 1'.9" beyond the intake on the opposite side. The interior is indescribably filthy. The walls are neatly built of thin flat stones, and the roof is formed of flags. [Sketch inserted here] About 1/3 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the cottages above the quarry at Kirkton on the moor is a hut circle of ordinary type overgrown & rather ill-defined. A group of about 1/2 doz. [dozen] small cairns lie adjacent. [Continued on page 218]
gb0551ms-36-8-218 [Page] 218 [Continued from page 217] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14. Some 30 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the circle where a "tumulus" is marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map is a cairn elliptical in outline measuring about 60' x 38' with its longest axis ENE. and WSW. [East North East & West South West]. About 40' from the N. [North] end and 18' from the E [East] side is a stone cist formed of 4 large slabs, the covering slab being amissing. It lies in the direction of the cairn and is interiorly 3'.5" long x 3'.1" broad. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 12. (See Vol II [Volume] 2. 38) At the base of the rocky escarpment of the silver Rock are a number of recesses or rock shelters but there is no apparent evidence of human occupation. Along the base of the rock to the Eastwards are numerous small cairns. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey 11 On the W. [West] side of the Cumailie Burn about 1/2 m. [mile] NNW. [North North West] of Culmailie is a well preserved hut circle overgrown with brackens. The outline of the bank on the interior is well defined with large flat faced boulders set on end at irregular intervals. It is 4'.6" across except on either side of the entrance where it expands to 7'. The width of the entrance is about 1'.10" and it opens to the S. [South]. The diameter of the interior is about 29'.6" x 30'. Two or three small cairns lie in the immediate vicinity and a short distance to the NW [North West] there are about a dozen. About a mile up the [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10 burn is Loch Lundie. On its NE [North East] side near its [Continued on page 219]
gb0551ms-36-8-219 [Page] 219 [Continued from page 218] E. [East] extremity and above the road is a hut circle. It measures interiorly 27' x 31' and has the entrance from the SE. [South East]. The bank appears to be about 8' thick and to be largely formed of turf. The entrance is ill defined. A few small cairns lie around and several more lie on the flank of the hill to the E' [East]ward. Some 40 yds. [yards] E. [East] is another circle with its bank much levelled and entrance to the SE. [South East]. One or two small cairns lie to the S. [South] of it. Sme 300 yds. [yards] further along the loch side is the site of another hut circle now ill- -defined, and a group of 7 or 8 cairns about it and on the hill side above. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13. One or two small cairns lying in the whins just above the cultivated land about 1/2 W. [West] of Culmailie. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1 To the W. [West] of Kirkton house in a wood between the road and the steading is a neglected graveyard. The farm house is said to be built on the site of the chapel dedicated to St. Carden. ? St. Kearnan. This was the first fine day for some time and I have enjoyed the company [Continued on page 220]
gb0551ms-36-8-220 [Page] 220 [Continued from page 219] of my friend Cree. The pleasure of the day was rather marred by our being kept waiting 1 1/4 hours at The Mound station for a train from the South, which made it 8.30 ere we got back to Dornoch. 17th July. Motored to Golspie to visit Dunrobin. To the W [West] of the castle and about 30 - 40 yds [yards] West of the Monument to the Duchess of Sutherland on the top of gravelly knoll about 2'.2" below the surface is a stone cist the E [East ] end of which has been removed. It lies with its longest axis E. & W. [East & West] and is formed of three slabs and a cover. The internal dimensions are 4' long, 2'.4" wide, & 2'.3" high. An urn of the beaker class found in it is pre: :served in the Dunrobin Museum. We went into the castle to see the old tower. Very little is visible and there seems nothing to add to the description in the Cast & Dom. Arch. [Castellated & Domestic Architecture of Scotland] Standing at the side of the walk which runs along the top of the banks through the wood to the E. [East] of the castle is a stone sculptured with incised symbols. It is 6'.2" in height above ground, 2'.4" broad at base tapering slightly to the upper end, and is about 15" thick. On its S. [South] face is cut a crescent 3'.2" between the points and 14" across - bearing on its centre a figure formed of an oval 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" and a [Continued on page 221]
gb0551ms-36-8-221 [Page] 221 [Continued from page 220] small circle of 3 1/2" dia. [diameter] at either end of it. A spear and sceptre pass anglewise behind the cres. [crescent] with the ends of their shafts meeting between the points and their heads protruding at the back. At the upper end of the stone is a symbol, probably the "tuning fork", and at the base another not easily identified but probably intended for a bird. In the Museum are several stones noted in the Early Christian Monuments. It was a lovely day and we (Cree, Elize & I) enjoyed the ramble through the grounds. The winters must be mild for we saw the Aurelia and other shrubs flourishing out of doors that would not live in Roxburghshire. We walked along the shore to the broch, Carn Liath. This broch has been thoroughly cleared out, described & planned. There is probably nothing to add to it. The encircling wall may be compared with that surround: :ing the broch in Skelbo Wood. There appears to have been a scarcement 6" to 8" broad, formed by a res: :triction of the thickness of the wall about 6' from present floor level. Inside the door jamb in the passage 2'.2" below the roof are square holes for the bar that on the S. [South] 21" into [Continued on page 222]
gb0551ms-36-8-222 [Page] 222 [Continued from page 221] [2 photographs with text inserted, transcribed on following page] - 1. Stone Circle at The Mound 2. Carn Liath Ent. [Entrance] from interior.
gb0551ms-36-8-222a [Page] 222 [Continued from page 221] [Photograph with text on reverse inserted, transcribed on following page] - Stone circle at 'The Mound'
gb0551ms-36-8-222b [Page] 222 [Continued from page 221] the wall that on the N. [North] 15". On the lintel stone of the outer cross passage I could only observe two cup marks. Returned by train. 19th July. A fine day. Elize left. We all travelled to: :gether to the Mound. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9 About 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the Mound station and about 30 yds. [yards] above the road are the remains of a stone circle. Three stones are standing, two are prostrate and one is awanting. The diameter has been about 22 ft. [feet]. The stones are set with their broad faces in line of the circum: :ference. The highest stone is about 6' high, 6'.6" across base and 1' thick. The circle has been planned &c. (see Pro. S of A S ). [Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8 About 1 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the Mound station on the top of the bank above the road to the W [West] of the burn at Aberscross are the remains of a large cairn. The interior of it has been entirely removed at no distant date and neither trace of chamber nor cist exists. It has been of somewhat unusual form appearing to have had a single projecting horn towards the NNW. [North North West]. The outline of the cairn, as well as of the projection, has been marked with large boulders, from 2' - 3' in length and 1 1/2' to 2' high many of which still remain in situ. The [Continued on page 223]
gb0551ms-36-8-223 [Page] 223 [Continued from page 222] diameter from E to W. [East to West] has been about 80' and from N to S. [North to South] 78' while from NNE [North North East] to S.S.W [South South West] along the projection it is 95'. The displacement of the stones on the S. [South] make the details at that point obscure. Some 40 yds [yards] E [East] of the cairn is a circular construction which I believe to be a ruined lime kiln. It is built of stones & earth & the diameter increases as the walls rise. (For further particulars see notes). [Margin] Unnoted At the N. [North] of Creag Mhor on a flat to the W [West] of Loch a Vicair & to the E [East] of the Allt is a large group of small cairns. At the W. [West] end of the group are the remains of a hut circle, only a portion of the bank on the W. [West] remains the rest has entirely disappeared. Around it lie numerous small cairns. One cairn towards the S. [South] more conspicuous than its neighbours measures 20' in diameter At the upper side of the flat about 100 yds [yards] S.W. [South West] of the hillock that rises at the N. [North] end of it is a more important cairn. Its outline has been carefully defined with large contiguous boulders from 2' to 3' in length & as much as 2' in height. On the N. [North] they are awanting but appear to have been [Continued on page 224]
gb0551ms-36-8-224 [Page] 224 [Continued from page 223] used in the construction of a small enclosure abutting on the cairn at that point. The cairn is circular with a diameter of about 35'. It has been excavated for about 1' of its depth but neither cist nor chamber has been exposed. It is about 4' in height. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7. At the S. [South] end of Aberscross hill at an elevation of about 450' above the sea on the slope above the burn is a hut-circle. It measures 37'.6" across x 38'.6" in length towards the entrance which faces S. [South]. [Sketch inserted here] The bank has been faced on the interior with large flat stones and there is a marked absence of stones on the outer circumference & in the centre of the bank. The bank has been about 3'.6" thick in the circumference expanding to 8' on either side of the entrance. At 2'.9" inward from the entrance the base of a wall 2'.10" wide runs towards the back of the enclosure for about 21' where it is met by a wall curving round from either side thus dividing the enclosure into 3 main compartments. Where the back compartment was entered from is not apparent. In the compartment to the E [East] [Continued on page 225]
gb0551ms-36-8-225 [Page] 225 [Continued from page 224] of the entrance there are indications of further subdivision, at the S. [South] end, but the details are indefinite. About 50 yds [yards] to the E. [East] is another hut circle but it is much dilapidated. A group of tumuli lie around. All along the face of the hill to the Northward at about the 500' Contour line are numbers of small cairns of the usual type. To the E. [East] of one cairn in the hollow above the hut circles is a setting of stones oval in outline measuring interiorly 6'.10" x 3'.5" lying N.W & SE. [North West & South East] with three large stones lying in the centre. It presents more the appearance of a grave than a cairn. The stones are about 8" to 10" across. There are remains of a croft not far off. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6. On the W. [West] flank of Aberscross Hill is a large group of cairns of usual type. Among them is one in appearance two cairns joined by a low neck about 3' long, lying E & W [East & West]. The whole length of the construction about 25', the breadth of the cairns about 12' (see cairns in Strath Naver p. [page] [--]) To the E [East] of the burn and almost due E [East] of the last group of cairns to the N. [North] of Aberscross is a small hut circle. Int. dia. [Interior diameter] about 12' Ent. [Entrance] from NE. [North East]. The features towards the entrance [Continued on page 226]
gb0551ms-36-8-226 [Page] 226 [Continued from page 225] are obscure but on the E [East] the bank appears to pro: :ject for about 6' beyond the opposite side making it 11'.6" wide on the E. [East] side and about 5'.6 on the other. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 5 On the hill above the birch wood abt. [about] 100 yds [yards] distant from it to the E [East] of Morvich House is a circular enclosure with an interior diameter of about 35'.6". The banks are 4' across, the entrance to the NE [North East] - 4' wide A number of small cairns lie around it - one only 8' to the E. [East]. Towards the upper part of the hill about 1/2 m. [mile] E. [East] of Morvich Ho. [House] is a ruined cairn in the centre of which a very small cist is exposed It is formed of flat sided stones. The longest axis lies NE and SW. [North East and South West]. The SW [South West] end is ruined. The apparent length has been about 2'.6" and the breadth 1'.5". There are single slabs at the NE [North East] and N.W [North West] sides and two on the S.E. [South East] side. The diameter of the cairn has been about 31'. It is now quite low in elevation. Some 50 yds [yards] to the S. [South] is another cairn the circumference of which has been marked with large boulders. The diameter has been about 25'. An excavation has been made in the centre and a built polygonal cist measuring about 2'.10" either way has been exposed. The bottom of it [Continued on page 227]
gb0551ms-36-8-227 [Page] 227 [Continued from page 226] is about 14" from the surface. The cairn is quite low. On the higher ground to the N. [North] of the cairns lie a number of small cairns of the usual type. On the top of the cliff to the S. [South] of Aberscross is a circular enclosure the outline of which is indefinite. 20th July. A wet morning, wrote up notes till 11.30 then set out on foot towards Clashmore. On the S. [South] side of the road about halfway between it and the river at the edge of the wood about 1/4 W. [West] of Evelix, are the remains of a chambered cairn. The cairn which has been almost entirely removed has been circular with a diameter of about 68'. Several of the slabs used in the construction of a large bipartite chamber remain. The chamber has had its main axis WNW and ESE. [West North West and East South East]. The back slab at the WNW [West North West] end has gone, of the inner compartment, two opposite slabs remain, about 8'.5" apart, the slab on the W. [West] slightly tilted backwards, 4' across base - that on the E. [East] 5' across base, 3'.6" high, & 2'.7" thick. Only one of the partition stones remains, viz. that on the W. [West] side, the front half of which is flat along the top at 1'.9" above ground, the outer end rising to 3'. Of the outer compartment two side slabs [Continued on page 228]
gb0551ms-36-8-228 [Page] 228 [Continued from page 227] remain about 4'.4" apart. They measure 2'.10" and 3' across the base respectively & are each about 2'.6" above ground. That on the W. [West] is 2' distant from the divisional stone and about 17' in from the outer edge of the cairn. In rear of the chamber several large stones protrude as if forming the back and two sides of another chamber, facing the S. [South]. The side slabs in this case standing anglewise to the back slab. Dornoch [Margin] Unnoted About 1m [mile] NW. [North West] of the factor's office at Clashmore on the E [East] side of the track thro' Clashmore Wood, is a cairn. It is circular with a diameter of about 60', a height of about 7', and, though considerably demolished, neither chamber nor cist has been exposed. Some 100 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] is a hut circle with its entrance from the SSE. [South South East] measuring interiorly 33'.6" x 35'.6". The enclosing bank is about 6' wide [Sketch inserted here] [Continued on page 229]
gb0551ms-36-8-229 [Page] 229 [Continued from page 228] broadening gradually from about 17' towards the entrance to a width of 13'.6". There are indications of the existence of a chamber on the W [West] side of the passage. The entrance is from the SSE. [South South East]. A tree planted on the E [East] side prevents the width of the passage being ascertained. A number of well preserved small cairns lie around, one actually abutting on the bank towards the E. [East]. About 50 yds [yards] NW. [North West] is a well preserved specimen measuring 20' in diameter and about 3' in height. Through the wood to the NW. [North West] are numerous small cairns. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 16 The OS. [Ordnance Survey] marks a hut circle about 3/4 m. [mile] W. [West] of the large cairn but as the wood was thick and the heather deep it seemed an almost hopeless task looking for it. Striking N. [North] we passed an open glade and saw several fine stags feeding among the trees beyond. Emerging from the wood to Dornoch [Margin] Unnoted the W [West] of the highest croft at Astel we followed the track up the Crask as directed by Mac: :donald the Skibo forester. Along the ridge which runs towards the S.E. [South East] at an elevation of from 400' to 500', are numerous cairns, several circular enclosures and [Continued on page 230]
gb0551ms-36-8-230 [Page] 230 [Continued from page 229] indistinct remains of ancient walls. Some 400 yds [yards] NW [North West] of the last cottage in Astel are two circular enclosures almost contiguous. That to the W. [West] is of the usual type with entrance from the SSE [South South East] (Fig 1) [Figure 1]. It measures interiorly 36' x 38'. The bank is 7'.6" thick and gradually widens towards the entrance where it measures 14'.6" along the line of the passage. The entrance appears to be about 1'.4" wide. The slope of the hill is towards the entrance and the back of the enclosure has been excavated so as to render the floor level. There is little sign of the bank on the upper side. [2 sketches inserted here] The enclosure adjoining is 9'.6" distant. It is circular with an interior diameter of about 43', and has the entrance from the SSE [South South East] about 5' across. The bank which is much broken appears to have been about [Continued on page 231]
gb0551ms-36-8-231 [Page] 231 [Continued from page 230] 7' thick. About half a doz. [dozen] cairns lie in the immediate neighbourhood of these enclosures. Some 400 yds. [yards] NNE [North North East] of the last house at Astel are the ruins of a circular enclosure (Fig 2) [Figure 2]. It is of pear shaped form measuring about 31'.6" x 35' with the main entrance probably from the N.E. [North East]. Like the enclosures near Achnael the wall has built more of stone and has evidently been higher. It appears to have been divided into three main compartments by stone walls. At about 14'.6" from the E [East] end the base of a wall about 8' thick, crosses it from N to S. [North to South] and is joined by a wall running inward from the N [North] side of the entrance about 5'.6" wide. The compartment formed on the S. [South] appears to have been about 9' from N to S [North to South] and 10' from E to W. [East to West]. That on the N. [North] about 10' from N. to S. [North to South] The wall appears to have been from 7' - 8' thick. Owing to the amount of stone in the interior from the ruined wall the details are obscured. There are indications of separate entrances through the wall into each chamber. There are no cairns in its immediate vicinity. 21st July. Train to Rogart where I parted company with Cree returning to Grantown. A house stands on the site of the stone circle at Pittentrail [Continued on page 232]
gb0551ms-36-8-232 [Page] 232 [Continued from page 231] Bridge. The valley of the Garbh Allt is very beautiful and there is a profusion of wild roses in bloom among the birch trees by its banks. Rogart. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 16. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13. Of the cairn near Reidchalmai I could find not a trace - nor of that to the E [East] of the bridge at Little Rogart either. Striking N' [North]ward up a steep path over a hill and through an open birch wood beyond I reached Achnagarron on the edge of a wide expanse of moor. Some 100 yds [yards] NE. [North East] of the W' [West]most croft on the upper part of the N [North] slope of the rising ground are 2 standing stones, which look as if they might have been members of a stone circle. They stand about 95' apart in a direction pointing 70º E of N. [East of North]. The most Easterly stands about 5' high is about 2'.6" wide at base - squarish in section & pointed to the upper end. (An old crofter told me he had attempted to undermine it in his youth looking for a pot of gold and had tilted it slightly from the perpendicular.) The second stone is about 4'.8" high, about 2'.3" across the base & is also pointed. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7. All along the ridge to the N [North] of the crofts at about the 500' level are scattered small cairns. They are of the usual type, one lying N & S. [North & South] measures 14' x 9'. Towards the E. [East] end of the ridge and E [East] of [Continued on page 233]
gb0551ms-36-8-233 [Page] 233 [Continued from page 232] most of the cairns is a hut circle entering [Sketch inserted here] [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7. from the SE. [South East] measuring interiorly 31' x 40', and containing in the interior a smaller circle abutting on the S. [South] side and entering from the main entrance measuring 17' x 21', with bank 3'.6" thick. There appears to have been a passage into the back of the main enclosure between the ends of the two circles on the E. [East]. The bank of the main enclosure is 5'.6" thick in the circumference and 9' thick on S. [South] side of entrance on the E [East] side of the entrance it projects SE [South East] 6' beyond the opposite side. The entrance passage is 6' wide in the interior - that between the two banks considerably less & seemingly about 3'. In the middle of the circumference at the back is a large flat stone about 2'.6" high set with its face across the bank and there are indications of a narrow entrance into the back enclosure to the E. [East] of it. The bank on the N. [North] of the circle is still about 2' high [Margin] Unnoted On the N. [North] slope of a low hill to the E. [East] of Torbuie is a large group of small cairns. Some 100 yds [yards] NE. [North East] of it are the remains of a [Continued on page 234]
gb0551ms-36-8-234 [Page] 234 [Continued from page 233] hut circle of ordinary type with entrance from the SE. [South East] and a group of 10 - 12 small cairns lie near. One cairn lies directly opposite the entrance and within 20' of it. Some 30' SW. [South West] of the entrance is a long low cairn lying N & S. [North & South], measuring 27' x 16' and tapering to each end, 2'.6" high. About 40' S. [South] is another not quite so high lying N & S. [North & South] and measuring 22' x 9'. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14. On the top of the hill immediately N. [North] of Skiag and at about the 500' level is a large group of small cairns. On the E [East] flank are situated two hut circles. The larger of the two measures interiorly about 33' x 34' with the entrance from the SE. [South East], about 4' across. The bank is about 8' across expanding to 11' on the S [South] of the entrance. On the E [East] side the bank flanks the entrance for 14' and is 9' broad at the SE [South East] end. On the E. [East] to the outside it is some 3'.6" high. The Interior is raised about the level of the ground outside. [Sketch inserted here] Some 30' S. [South] is another of smaller dimensions measuring interiorly 18' x 15' with an entrance from the SE. [South East] about 3'.6" across. [Continued on page 235]
gb0551ms-36-8-235 [Page] 235 [Continued from page 234] The enclosing bank is some 6' thick and projects 10' E' [East]ward on the NE [North East] of the entrance. Some 40' E. [East] is a large enclosure formed of large boulders laid in courses and mounded up on the exterior. The wall still stands 3' high at the N [North] end. This I consider a cattle enclosure of later date. The entrance SE [South East] abt. [about] 8' wide. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15. On Skiag the cairns lie in great numbers over the top and W. [West] flank of the hill from the 500' to 600' elevation, over an area about 1/2 m. [mile] square. They are almost all circular of the usual type. Some are laid against earthfast boulders. One about 1/3 m. [mile] ENE [East North East] of the parish church lies with its longest axis NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East] measuring 29' x 18' and 1 1/2' to 2' high. Some 40' N [North] of it is a construction forming a semi-oval enclosure facing E. [East] 17' across the open end & 11' deep, enclosed by low banks 5' - 6' across and with a cairn like mound 18' long & 16' broad in rear of it (Fig). [Figure] [Sketch inserted here] 22nd July. Trained to Rogart & bicycled to Blarich. Mr. Menzies senior, had his various curiosities arranged for my inspection. They [Continued on page 236]
gb0551ms-36-8-236 [Page] 236 [Continued from page 235] included a stone cup with a perforated handle and a small brass or bronze bell of modern shape about 1 1/2 in height obtained from a crofter at Balclaggan. A very beautifully flaked arrowhead barbed and tanged found in a field near Blarich & several dirks, pistols & swords of no particular merit. He and his son took me in hand to show me the objects of interest in their vicinity. About 50 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of the house on the top of a slight knoll surrounded with large boulders for the most part placed naturally is a circular depression about 38' across entering from the SE. [South East]. There are traces of banks between the boulders but the indications are slight About 80 yds [yards] SW. [South West] of Blarich on the top of a slight eminence is a circular enclosure with interior diameter of 49', and entrance most prob: :ably SE. [South East]. The banks have been pillaged and the details are obscure. Almost abutting on it is another similar enclosure with interior dia. [diameter] of about 44' & entrance from the E. [East]. Another which appears to be more of an oval form lies about 100 yds. [yards] S. [South] of No. 1. Its outline how: :ever is less distinct. Dr. [Doctor] Joass has pronounced these round enclosures Danish camps on what grounds I do not know. The invariably [Continued on page 237]
gb0551ms-36-8-237 [Page] 237 [Continued from page 236] wide entrance, frequent proximity to ord. [ordinary] hut circles and disregard of defensive details & position are more suggestive of cattle or sheep folds. Crossing the railway to the [Margin] Unnoted S. [South] side of the valley we mounted the ridge which runs S.E. [South East] from Rossal. All along the W [West] slope from 400' to 500' above sea level lies a group of many score of cairns Locally the hill is known as Cnoc-righ Shonaid "The hill of King Janet," and as usual the cairns are considered to be those of warriors slain in battle. The cairns are well preserved and the average size is rather larger than usual in the class. Some are nearly 3' high. One towards the N. [North] side of the centre of the group is elliptical in outline measuring 29' x 20' and about 4' in height. Its longest axis lies NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East]. Another near the top of the ridge is circular with a diameter [Margin] (cf. pp. [pages] 223, 226) of about 23' and height of 3'. The remains of an outline of boulders 2' - 3' long and 1 '- 2' high is apparent on its outline towards the S. and W. [South and West]. Another cairn towards the N. [North] side of the upper end of the ridge measures 40' x 17' lies with its longest axis NNW and SSE. [North North West and South South East]. At the S. [South] side of its Southern extremity are the [Continued on page 238]
gb0551ms-36-8-238 [Page] 238 [Continued from page 237] foundations of a small circular enclosure with an interior diameter of about 10', and an entrance to the NW. [North West] about 6'.6" wide. The wall seems to have been built of material pillaged from the cairn Its width is not ascertainable. At the upper end of the ridge on its Northern slope and about 1 m [mile] SSW. [South South West] of Blarich is a hut circle of the usual type with its entrance from the SE. [South East]. It is overgrown with heather and its outline is indefin: :ite. Some 40 yds. [yards] W [West] of it is a low circular mound meas: :uring about 22' over all with a circular depression of about 6' diameter in the centre entering from the N.W. [North West]. At the lower or N. [North] end of the ridge, near Rossal on the E. [East] bank of the Achnael burn are the remains of several hut circles. One is almost circular measuring 27' x 28' towards the entrance which is from the SE. [South East]. The bank is about 6'.6" wide and is much eroded. There appears to have been little stone in it. To the NW. [North West] lie two others apparently contiguous entering from the SE. [South East] but too indefinite to measure. The slight remains of hut circles in the banks of which there has been an absence of stone, per: :haps to some extent accounts for their non- -existence in certain groups of small cairns. On a piece of common between the crofts at [Continued on page 239]
gb0551ms-36-8-239 [Page] 239 [Continued from page 238] Rossal on the E. [East] of the burn are the ruins of an oval enclosure which has been surrounded by a wall from 3' - 4' thick. It has measured 40' across and 57' towards the entrance which is about 4' wide. This I think has been a cattle fold. This has been an easy day as Mr. Menzies entertained me hospitably to lunch and tea. 23rd July. Bicycled to Ospisdale and walked N. [North] through the woods and past the crofts at Bard: :nabeinne to Gablon a small crofter settlement to the E [East] of Acharry Moor. Here on the first ridge of the moor to the N. [North] of the woods is a group of about a dozen small cairns of the usual type. To the W. [West] of the group on the crest of a ridge between ravines are the remains of a hut circle of the usual type with an entrance from the SE. [South East]. The banks are so effaced as to make accurate measurement impossible. Returning to my bicycle at Ospisdale farm I rode on for Spinningdale and picked up the Skibo forester near his house. About 1/2 m. [mile] NW [North West] of Spinningdale Post Office [Margin] Unnoted on the E. [East] of the Rhivra burn and some 30 yds [yards] back the road inside a wood are the [Continued on page 240]
gb0551ms-36-8-240 [Page] 240 [Continued from page 239] remains of a large circular cairn much dilapidated and overgrown with grass. Its diameter has been about 60'. There is no indication of its character. [Margin] Unnoted Some 40 yds [yards] to the NE. [North East] are the remains of another the interior of which has been almost entirely carted away. The diameter has been about 90' and the height on the SE [South East] side is still about 12'. Near the centre a single large upright slab is exposed for a height of about 3' and suggest a chambered character for the cairn. The direction of the chamber being apparently NNE and SSW. [North North East and South South West]. There is an amusing tradition connected with this cairn. Many hundred years ago the district was visited by a fell disease, so the inhabitants formed a huge circle, with a diameter of a mile or so, round the spot where the disease, materialised, & it was supposed to be, gradually closing in on it and making sure it did not escape. When they reached this spot, which had been the centre of their circle, the disease in the form of an animal, was seen to plunge into the earth and over the place to prevent its reappearance the cairn was erected. Northwards, up a beautiful glen crossed by bridges and very picturesque, one emerges from the wood to the SE [South East[ of Achu. Near the edge of [Continued on page 241]
gb0551ms-36-8-241 [Page] 241 [Continued from page 240] Creich [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 20. the wood about 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of Rhivra are two cairns. One lying about 30 yds [yards] from the road is (?) much dilapidated. It has been elliptical in outline measuring 35' x 24' with its longest axis WNW. and ESE. [West North West and East South East]. It is now only a foot or two in height and neither cist nor chamber is apparent and is almost level on the top. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 20. Some 30 yds [yards] NE [North East] of it is a larger cairn On inspecting it I observed that it was not round and that there were distinct indications of horns from four points, but being in a wood and there being a great accumulation of humus over the stones I could not be certain. Further my attention was arrested by a large stone lying on its side, resembling in shape the stones used as lintels in the horned cairns at Skelpick & Rhinovie and con: :sidering that this really gave the clue to the structure we cleared away the stones in rear of it and saw into the chamber beyond. The lintel had evidently got displaced and in rear of it the chamber had got filled with stones, but the roof still remained intact. After clearing away a small pile of boulders recently erected we found the [Continued on page 242]
gb0551ms-36-8-242 [Page] 242 [Continued from page 241] original apex. A number of large flat slabs from 2' to 3' in length were laid radiating from a central hole, into which had been firmly inserted, point downwards, a wedge shaped or pointed stone about 1 ft. [foot] in length and 8" to 10" diameter at its thick end acting as a key stone. To: :wards this point the walls all round had gradually converged with overlapping stones. We cleared off enough of the roof to allow us to work with safety in the chamber. The chamber to the back was filled with stones for a foot or two in depth. Realising that we had started impetuously on a heavy task we stopped proceedings at this point arranging to return on Monday when the forester volunteered the assistance of a couple of workmen. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 19 About 200 yds [yards] NE ]North East] of Kyleoag at the upper end of an open area in the wood is a large cairn. Its exact outline is difficult to determine but its diameter at right angles to a large triangular block apparently a lintel is 57' and across the supposed chamber 50'. On the N.W. and S. [North West and South] there are indications of projecting horns but the growth of bracken & other vegetation obscures details. Towards the S. [South] the horn appears to project [Continued on page 243]
gb0551ms-36-8-243 [Page] 243 [Continued from page 242] for about 10' and to be about 15' wide at base. On the E. [East] a stone dyke has been built close to the cairn. At 10' in from the edge on the S. [South] side lies a large block, triangular in section - 10'.6" in length, about 2' deep & 1 1/2" across. It lies ENE and WSW [East North East and West South West] so that if there is a chamber in rear of it. As usual it lies NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East]. The cairn is about 12' high from W [West] side. [Margin] Unnoted About 150 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of Kyleoag House on the top of a slight ridge about 30' S. [South] of the road is a cairn entirely overgrown with long heather. The vegetation obscures the details but it measures about 40' from N to S. [North to South] and 45' from E to W. [East to West]. In height it is from 8' to 10'. Its character is not revealed. On the W. [West] side of the Rhivra burn to the N. [North] of the road are 2 circular enclosures, that nearest the burn measuring about 46' Int. dia. [Interior diameter] the other some 30 yds [yards] W. [West] 35' x 34'. The entrance is uncertain. These are probably both cattle pends. It was 7.15 before I got back to the hotel, about my usual hour. I have not got home for tea for weeks. 24th. Engaged all morning writing up notes which had got in arrears. Fortunately it [Continued on page 244]
gb0551ms-36-8-244 [Page] 244 [Continued from page 243] has been such a wet day that I could have done nothing else. 26th July. Returned to the chambered cairn at Achu and resumed excavation with Macdonald and two of the estate workmen. Sir Alexander Kennedy, Mr. Hardie the factor, his wife & Rev [Reverend] Mr. Bentinck all turned up. When cleared out the chamber was found to be almost rectangu: :lar except at the back where building across the angles joined the side and back slabs. It was formed of seven large slabs the largest 3'.9" across, 2 on either side, one forming the back wall and one on either side of the entrance to support the lintel. The extreme length was 8'.9" extreme breadth 7'. The spaces between the edges of the slabs was filled with well laid horizontal building. The main axis is ESE [East South East] and WNW. [West North West] with the entrance from the ESE. [East South East]. The lintel stone above the entrance is a three sided block about 6' long, and 2' thick x 2' across base. The jambs on which it rested have not been of the same height that on the S [South] of the entrance being lower and the additional height required has been obtained by building on the top of it. This building appears to have been insufficient and to have shifted and caused a slight displacement [Continued on page 245]
gb0551ms-36-8-245 [Page] 245 [Continued from page 244] of the lintel. This most probably withdrew the support of a portion of the roof which had fallen in from the S [South] and filled up the chamber for 3 feet of its height with ruins. The entrance passage is 2' wide and 4' high at entrance to the chamber. The height of the chamber at present with a portion of the roof removed is 6'.9" and to the point from which the roof begins to converge 4'.6" which is the height of the back slab. The height of the cairn previous to excavation was about 8'. During the course of excavation there was found the remains of a human skeleton, the bones of which were in a very friable condition, which lay crushed against the back wall above the floor, and considerable portions lay actually in the angle between the walling and the back slab on the W [West] side. It seemed as if the fall of the roof had taken place before the body was decomposed and it had been swept to the back of the chamber by the inrush of stones. Owing to the mass of ruins it was not possible to clearly define the various strata. The soil near the top was of a dark peaty colour probably an infiltration from the surface. Beneath this was a considerable layer [Continued on page 246]
gb0551ms-36-8-246 [Page] 246 [Continued from page 245] of grey sand with numerous white particles in it which did not appear to be osseous. Beneath this was a layer of black unctuous matter. Only one small portion of calcined bone was found. [Margin] There was also found 1 valve of mussel, a metal disc of a button (modern) and a considerable number of empty cocoons of the emperor moth or some other of same kind brought in by rats, whose [nest] was in one corner) There also came to light a flint scraper made of a faulty piece of flint with a hole in it and a fragment about 2" square of dark reddish pottery well baked with rather a fine texture, part of a round vessel with a slightly everted lip. There was a small [Sketch inserted here] amount of charcoal in the sandy deposit. The floor was over its greater part packed with flat flags laid on the old natural surface. There were no remains of any other burials noted. All the soil in the chamber was carefully passed through a half inch riddle. It was a wet cold day and the rain made the soil difficult to examine. The bones were sent, by request to Dr. [Doctor] Simpson, Golspie, whose report I have not yet heard. They appeared to be leg bones. The time taken to clear out the chamber left us [Continued on page 247]
gb0551ms-36-8-247 [Page] 247 [Continued from page 246] no opportunity to examine the structure but I think that will be done by the forester to whom I have given directions how to proceed. In the circumference opposite the entrance I made a few cuts with a spade through the humus which covers the base of the cairn and about 2' in from the edge uncovered a long stone 6'.4" long and about 1' thick which ap: :parently covered the outer end of the passage. I have no doubt that this is a cruciform cairn. The arms, or horns, are fairly distinct, project about 16' and are about 20' wide at base. I hope their outline will be laid bare. The diameter of the cairn seems to be about 50' - 53'. 27 July. Bicycled towards Creich and met the forester at Spiningdale. Leaving our bicycles on the road we climbed up the steep wooded hill side to look for a tumulus noted by Donald Mackenzie. On the upper edge of the Ledmore wood just below an old enclosure is a heap of stones, but I do not think they are sepulchral. They seem to be associated with a triskele walling set about 10' to the E [East] which has probably been a sheep shelter. Proceeding W [West] along the open [Continued on page 248]
gb0551ms-36-8-248 [Page] 248 [Continued from page 247] area above the wood, at about the 500' elevation towards the W. [West] end of the wood are a number of small cairns. Just past the W. [West] end and about 1 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Dun of Creich is a large cairn. Its diameter from N. to S. [North to South] is about 47' and from E to W. [East to West] 52'. This also appears to be a cruciform or horned cairn. The horn projecting towards the N.W. [North West] is quite distinct the outline of stones being clearly visible. It appears to project about 10' and is about 17' broad at base. The horn to the S.E. [South East] is indicated but excavation is necessary to establish it. The diameter from the end of the NW [North West] horn to the SE [South East] is 65'. At 30' in from the W. [West] side facing E by N [East by North] and W by S. [West by South] is a broad flat slab 4'.4" across and to the SW [South West] of it the top of another protrudes at rt. [right] angles, evidently parts of a chamber. Against the cairn towards the NE. [North East] are the foundations of a small rectangular construction. These buildings formed of and against cairns at later times I have on several occasions noticed. Some 40 yds. [yards] W [West] is a low mound with a depression in the centre of about 4'.6" diameter and 15" deep. The enclosing bank of [Continued on page 249]
gb0551ms-36-8-249 [Page] 249 [Continued from page 248] stones overgrown with turf is 3' - 4' thick. This must, I think, have been a kiln. On the summit of a wooded hill which projecting into the Dornoch Firth from its [Margin] 3 1/2 m. [miles] SE [South East] N. [North] bank about SE [South East] of Bonar Bridge presents an almost precipitous front to sea-ward and hardly less accessible slopes on its N and S [North and South] flanks is situated the Dun of Creich. The hill attains an altitude of 370' and is easily ascended only along a narrow ridge from the Westward culminating in a more rocky summit. A single rampart of stone encloses an area of about [--] and the highest portion of this area which is towards the N. [North] has again been further fortified by an inner rampart along the top of the rocky scarp now insignificant & measures about 167' from E to W [East to West] by 96' from N to S. [North to South]. In the centre of this area and itself enclosed within a low bank about 10' distant from its walls are the fragmentary ruins of a rectangular mortar built structure measuring 18' x 25'. believed to be the castle built by Paul MacIver in 13 Cent [Century] (See Sir Robert Gordon) The main rampart of the original construction is at highest (towards the S. [South]) about 4' high and 12' wide on base. The main entrance has [Continued on page 250]
gb0551ms-36-8-250 [Page] 250 [Continued from page 249] up a steep slope from the NE. [North East]. Within the interior on the N [North] of it is a depression which appears to be round apparently lined with stone measuring about 12' x 8' and on the opposite side are indications of another. The width of the entrance is indefinite and there is much vegetation in its vicinity which obscures the details. At the W [West] end of the inner enclosure is a natural bastion and at the base of this lies a large mass of wall vitrified throughout. At the highest point on the S. [South] side of the outer rampart a partially vitrified stone projects and on removing portions of the turf in its immediate vicinity quantities of charcoal came to light. The rock of the hill is a reddish mecaceous schist. Towards the S. [South] there appears to have been another entrance of less importance. The ramparts are much overgrown with turf. After descending from the dun, I parted com: :pany with Macdonald and set off towards Bonar Bridge to meet Donald Mackenzie. I found him waiting for me at the W. [West] end of the Swordale wood. About 300 yds. [yards] S. [South] of Ordan farm within the Swordale wood and opposite the SE [South East] corner of the arable land is a hut circle much [Continued on page 251]
gb0551ms-36-8-251 [Page] 251 [Continued from page 250] effaced, with entrance apparently from the SE. [South East]. It seems to have been of the usual form. Some 30' E. [East] are the delapidated remains of another probably circular but details now indefinite. A small group of tumuli lies around and there are more up the wood to the N. [North]. On the W [West] side of the old crofter enclosure near the fence about [--] yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of Ordan and S. [South] of the old road to Little Swordale is a small group of cairns and a much effaced hut circle of ordinary type. Within the Clabran Sallach near its N. [North] end appear to be other cairns and and there is a group of some half a dozen in the wood to the E [East] of the opening N. [North] of it about W by N [West by North] of Little Swordale. [2 sketches with text inserted here] 1. See fresh plan. Note. Owing to the ruined state of the structure, the thickness of brackens & birch trees, this plan cannot be regarded as perfectly accurate - though drawn to scale as far as possible. 2. Royal Commission on the Ancient Monuments of Scotland, 29 St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh, [Continued on page 252]
gb0551ms-36-8-252 [Page] 252 [Continued from page 251] Some 400 yds. [yards] W. [West] of Little Swordale within the wood near the SW. [South West] point of a portion of the cultivated land which projects to the SW. [South West] is a defensive construction. It is formed of a circle with an interior diameter of about 35 ft. [feet] enclosed within an outer circle some 19' distant at the WNW, [West North West], and gradually con: :verging towards the ESE. [East South East]. In the interior and somewhat to the SE. [South East] of the centre is a small circular foundation with ruined walls and a diameter over all of from 6' to 7' feet having had an entrance from the W. [West]. The inner circle has been entirely composed of stone, now a structureless mass about 8' across and has been entered from the E.S.E. [East South East]. The outer circle is composed of stones about 14' thick on base and is pierced by a passage about 8' across which is not apparent through the circumference of the inner circle opposite on the NW [North West] On the S. [South] the outer circle is a broad bank of stones which on the E [East] tapers away until it is represented by a single line of stones set on end and contiguous about 1' to 2' high which join the inner circle on the N & S [North & South] sides of the entrance. The main entrance has been [Continued on page 253]
gb0551ms-36-8-252a [Duplicate of previous page]
gb0551ms-36-8-253 [Page] 253 [Continued from page 252] from the NW [North West] towards the SE [South East] part of the inner circle & from SW to NE [South West to North East] where the outer circle converges and has been defended by walls about 6'- 8' thick flanking it for a distance of about 42' and 22' distant from the stones of the outer circumference at the NE [North East] termination, and 12' distant at SW. [South West]. The measurements of the entrance are not obtainable owing to the ruins of the walls. The whole area is so overgrown with bracken & birch trees that an accurate survey was im: :possible. I shall try and revisit the spot on Monday. There are a few small cairns lying near. One lying to the S. [South] about 40' away measures 22' across is formed of large stones and is uncovered with soil. Some yds. [yards] [--] to the ESE [East South East] and [--] SW [South West] of Little Swordale are one or two heaps of stone of about 20' diameter that are probably cairns. Within the wood at the edge of the cultivated land and on the E [East] of the tongue that projects towards the SSW [South South West] [--] yds [yards] W. [West] of Little Swordale is a great triangular mass of stones with a slight concave outline to the NE [North East]. It is 50' in length and 46' across the front facing NE. [North East] is flat on the top and about 4' high. In front of it are irregular indefinite founda: [Continued on page 254]
gb0551ms-36-8-254 [Page] 254 [Continued from page 253] :tions of walls. This mass of boulders seems too huge to have been merely gathered from the fields unless they were thickly strewn with cairns and it is not quite like any sepulchral construc: :tion I have met. Within the birch wood to the W. [West] of the tongue of arable land to the W [West] of Little Swordale is a small group of cairns. It was nearly 6.20 before I left Mr Mackenzie and set out on my 14 miles ride home. It is very seldom I get back before 7.0 p.m. 28th July. Moved on to the Grand Hotel Brora - a temperance hotel, which is simple in its man: :agement. Sandy came back from school. All afternoon I was engaged writing up arrears. 29th July. Trained to Rogart and was joined by Mr. Bishop from Dornoch at the Mound. [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9. To the E. [East] of Morness on the Breac Achadh on the rising ground to the E [East] of the road to the NW. [North West] of the crofts at an elevation of about 480' is a considerable group of cairns of ordinary type. Towards the E. [East] side of the group on the upper slope about 50 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the croft dyke is one rather more conspicuous than the rest. It is almost circular with a diameter of about 21' and is about 3'.6" high [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 11 About 1/2 m. [mile] to the N. [North] on the W [West] side of the road [Continued on page 255]
gb0551ms-36-8-255 [Page] 255 [Continued from page 254] about the 500' contour line is a small group of about half a dozen cairns of the ordinary type. About 1 mile further N. [North] on the S. [South] slope of the moorland just beyond the Achadnahuaighe crofts is a very considerable [Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10 group. Towards the NE [North East] end of the group is an oval or oblong specimen lying with its longest axis WNW and ESE [West North West and East South East], measuring 20' x 9' and some 2' - 3' in height. Near the centre of the group on the upper side of the highest of the two tracks that run to West Langwell is a hut circle with entrance from SE. [South East] measuring 39' across by 42' towards the entrance with banks about 6' thick gradually widening for the last 26' towards the entrance to 17'. The width of the entrance passage is indefinite. [Sketch inserted here] The circle is surrounded by cairns Just above the upper track and a short distance to the W. [West] of the last are the dilapidated foundations of a more complicated structure. It shows signs of quite recent demolition and in several cases the large stones which [Continued on page 256]
gb0551ms-36-8-256 [Page] 256 [Continued from page 255] have marked the outline of its walls have been torn out of place and left as well as in large measure removed. The plan of the construction shows an oval compartment measuring 17' across by 29'.6" to the entrance which is from S. by W. [South by West] having two round chambers opening off it one at the N [North] end, through an opening 10'.6" wide measuring 14' in length by 16' across and another towards the SW. [South West] measuring 16' in length by 14' across the width of the entrance to the main chamber not ascertainable. The principal entrance is 2'.8" wide through a passage about 8' long clearly defined with large stones laid along each side. The thickness of the walls has been from 4' to 5'. The walls have been outlined with large stones on both sides and a considerable amount of stone seems to have been used in the con: :struction. For the most part it is overgrown with rank heather. There are no cairns in close vicinity, the nearest is about 100' distant. [Sketch with text inserted here] - Note This plan is only approximate To the S. [South] of the lower track about 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of Achadhna- -huaighe is a hut circle very [Continued on page 257]
gb0551ms-36-8-257 [Page] 257 [Continued from page 256] clearly defined. The enclosing bank is about 4'.6" wide composed of boulders and turf and about 2' high at highest. It is outlined on the inner side with large boulders 3' to 4' in length and one huge earthfast boulder about 6' across crosses it in the back opposite the entrance. The entrance is from the SW. [South West] and is 3' in width. In front of this are indications of another. Some 30' SW. [South West] of the last is another circular enclosure, with banks formed of boulders of the size usually employed, about 4' thick. The diameter across interior abut 13', length towards entrance about 19', entrance about 7' wide through passage 8' to 9' long, from SW. [South West] (Fig) [Figure]. [Sketch inserted here] One or two small cairns lie in the immediate neigh: :bourhood. Some 200 yds [yards] Westwards are another couple of circles. The upper one of the two occupies a slight elevation. Its banks are much worn away but it seems to have been of the ordinary type with entrance SSE. [South South East]. The walls on either side of the entrance have been carried forward and finished with square termina: :tions as in the previous instance. In the interior are very distinct indications [Continued on page 258]
gb0551ms-36-8-258 [Page] 258 [Continued from page 257] of the subdivision of the space into oval com: :partments but the accurate details are obscured by the growth of turf (cf. pp [pages] 175, 193, 250). Some 20' S. [South] of it is another oval in outline meas: :uring interiorly 16' x 9' set with its longest axis N & S [North & South]. The banks are much broken down and the entrance obscure. Another small round enclosure measuring 11' x 9' lies immediately in rear of the first circle. A few small cairns which appear to be sepulchral lie around. Immediately to the E [East] of the most Southerly area of enclosed land at East Langwell on the rising ground above the Garbh-Allt is a small group of cairns of usual type. Across the Garbh-Allt on the W [West] side of the path to Achnagarron and about half between it and the stream is a hut circle of ordinary type, much effaced, with a few cairns lying around it. A walk of a few miles down a beautiful glen where the wild roses luxuriated brought us to Rogart in time for tea at the Pittentrail Inn, which looks comfortable, before catching the 6.15 train to Brora. This has been a fine day though rain threatened at intervals. The [Continued on page 259]
gb0551ms-36-8-259 [Page] 259 [Continued from page 258] weather has been deplorable for weeks and we have had no summer yet. 30 July. Returned to Rogart by train & bicycled out to Achadhnacaillich. Here on the slopes of a hillock which rises from the peat bog to the N. [North] of the croft is a small group of cairns. One is set against a large earthfast boulder as is frequently done. In the angle between the main road to Strath Brora and the road to Golspie on the S. [South] of the latter is a large group of cairns. Some on the top of the rising ground rather larger than usual. About 1 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] to the E. [East] of Achoile is a hut circle of the ordinary type with its banks much worn away and entrance from SE. [South East] and around it a group of about 1 dozen cairns. One cairn lying about 40' to the SE. [South East] measures about 23' x 17' and lies E. & W. [East & West]. The crofter at Achnamoine had been shepherd for many years near Braegrudie and told me how he had dug under & displaced one of the stones of the circle there looking for treasure. He said he found quantities of chips of white flint. A few hundred yards further S. [South] on the [Continued on page 260]
gb0551ms-36-8-260 [Page] 260 [Continued from page 259] rising ground to the E [East] of Achork is a large group of cairns at an elevation of about 650' to 700' feet. One is set against an outcrop of rock. I observed only one hut circle almost immedi: :ately E. [East] of the most Northerly house house in Achork & about 200 yds. [yards] distant. It is of the common type with the entrance from the SE. [South East] about 1'.8" across. The interior diameter is about 17' by 19' and the banks 4' to 5' across. All along the hill side from about 1/2 m. [mile] E. [East] of Knock- -Arthur for a considerable distance are cairns and the remains of hut circles. About 1/2 m. [mile] from Knock Arthur almost due N. [North] of Farlary is a very well preserved hut circle overgrown with heather. [Sketch inserted here] It is almost circular with a diameter interiorly of 31'. The entrance is from the SE [South East] and the banks, which are about 3'.6" high towards the interior are about 14' thick. They appear to be stony but there is a great accumulation of soil over them. The details of the entrance are not obtainable. Many cairns lie near some almost contiguous. [Continued on page 261]
gb0551ms-36-8-261 [Page] 261 [Continued from page 260] Some 150 yds. [yards] Westward of the last just across a hollow are the remains of a double circled enclosure much eroded. [Sketch with text inserted] - approximate. The outer circle is much worn away Towards the S. [South] there is a segment in which the earth and stone bank about 4' across still remains but elsewhere it is represented by an outline of single stones observable through the heather. It has had a diameter from E to W. [East to West] of about 32'. 6' within it from the S. [South] is the outer edge of an oval or circular chamber lying E. and W. [East and West] measuring about 9' x 40' with a stone and earth wall, now merely a foundation, about 4' thick. Immediately in rear of this is a construction differing in no external particular from an ordinary small cairn. It has a diameter of about 14' and abuts on the outer circle (cf. with this the circle near Lairg p. [page] 149) Some 50 yds. [yards] W. [West] are the ruins of another stone walled circle with the remains of an outer earth and stone concentric bank around it. The inner circle has [Continued on page 262]
gb0551ms-36-8-262 [Page] 262 [Continued from page 261] an interior diameter of about 24' and is entered from the ESE. [East South East]. Its walls which have been entirely of stone have been about 5'.6" in thickness. The outer bank seems to have been of earth and stone and at about 15' to the S [South] of the entrance (measured in the interior) junctions with the inner enclosure and continues towards the entrance [Sketch inserted here] On the opposite side of the entrance the point of coalescence has been nearer to the entrance but on that side the outer mound has been much broken down. The outer mound is about 4'.6" distant from the inner near its com: :mencement and increases to 9' at the WNW. [West North West] where there is an entrance through it 11' wide. On the E. [East] side of this entrance through the outer bank and abutting on it at the outside is another small circular enclosure with banks about 3' thick and interior diameter of about 12' x 15'. The entrance to it opens on to the opening through the outer circle and is about 1'.4" wide. The entrance to the [Continued on page 263]
gb0551ms-36-8-263 [Page] 263 [Continued from page 262] central enclosure has been through a passage about 11' long, 2' wide for the central 5' of its distance and gradually expanding to 4' outwards and inwards Numerous cairns lie around. Also about 40' S. [South] is a small hut circle of the ordinary type with the entrance from the SSE. [South South East]. [Continued on page 264]
gb0551ms-36-8-264 [Page] 264 [Continued from page 263] MS/36/9 A.O. Curle. 1909. "Grey recumbent tomb of the dead in desert places Standing stones on the vacant wine red moor, Hills of sheep, and the howes of the silent vanished races And winds austere and pure." -- R.L. Stevenson [Continued on page 265]
gb0551ms-36-8-265 [Page] 265 [Continued from page 264] Achurigill -- 172. Ant' Sron -- 148. Achinduich -- 178 Achany-- 181. Achnail -- 190. Acha Bhataich (Strath) -- 203. Aberscross Hill -- 224 Astel -- 229. Acharry Moor -- 239. Achu -- 244 Achadnahuaighe -- 255 Achnagarron -- 258. Achadhnacaillich -- 259. Achoile -- 259. Achnamoine -- 259. Achork -- 260. Achness -- 22. Altnaharra -- 2. Angus Gunns Croft -- 33. Auchanellan -- 48. Allt-an-Duin -- 56. Allt-an-Chaisteil -- 56. Achnabourin -- 60. 68. Acharagaraidh -- 60. Allt-ach' nan Tot -- 64. Achaigary -- 68. Allt-a-Choruinn -- 83. Aodann Mhor -- 85. Ardvair -- 94 Assynt -- 106 Ardvreck -- 106 Aultnacealgach -- 110. Ard -- 141. Allt na Fearna -- 143. Allt-Chaisegail -- 162. Altbrech -- 163. Allt-na-Inse-Mor -- 166. Altass Mor -- 169. Betty Hill -- 39. Borve -- 42. Bal Margait -- 43. 53. Borgie Bridge -- 61. Balnakiel -- 84. Badnabay -- 88. Badcall -- 90. Bengarve -- 107. Borralan -- 110 - 111. Badintagart -- 130. Balindialish -- 135. Basharn -- 136. Balcharn -- 160. Ballafuer -- 181 184 Bonar Bridge -- 196. Blackwood -- 213. Blarick -- 235. Balchlaggan -- 236. Bardnabrinne -- 239. Breac-Achadh -- 254. Brora -- 254. [Continued on page 266]
gb0551ms-36-8-266 [Page] 266 [continued from page 265] Cnoc a' Chaoriunn -- 111. Creageach (Loch) -- 137. Colaboll -- 139. Creag Saval -- 147. 162. Cnock-a-Chatha -- 151 Chaisegail --163. Cnock Neill -- 163. 165. Caisteal na Coire -- 169. Cnoc Odhan -- 189. Cambusavie -- 190 Creag Amail -- 195. Creag Mhor -- 223. Cnoc-righ-Shonaid -- 237. Clabran Sallach -- 251. Creich Church -- 196 Clach-a-Chara -- 196 Carn Leath -- 198. Carnachy -- 198. Camore Wood -- 198. 209. Crockan -- 203 Creag Liath -- 203 Coul -- 209. Clashmore -- 211. 227. Coille Poll na' H'Airdie -- 212 Culmailie Burn -- 218 Carn Liath -- 221. Crask -- 229. Creich -- 247. Coire-nam-Feuran -- 10. Cnoc na Geamhna -- 22 Cnoc na H'Iolaire -- 24. Clach au Righ -- 29. Ceann-na-Coille -- 30. Clerk Hill -- 43. Crag au Soiller -- 43. Craig Braan -- 53. Cracknie -- 63. Craggie -- 67 Crocach -- 72. Cuniside -- 79. Creagach -- 80. Camus-an-Dun -- 81. Croisaphnill -- 87. Carn-nam-breach -- 92. Carnbaurn -- 93. Clach-nessie -- 99. Culkein -- 99. Clachtoll -- 101. Calda House -- 106. Cam Loch -- 109. Dundornadilla -- 16. Dunkealmie -- 36. Dun Carnachaidh -- 39. Dun Vedin -- 46 Dun Riaski -- 53 Druim-Odhar -- 62. Dun Maigh -- 75. 80. Druim-na-coup -- 77. Dhiarmids Grave -- 79. Durness -- 83. Duart Beg -- 91. Drumbeg -- 97. Dulaich -- 136. Dola -- 138. Dalchork -- 163. 172. Dalnessie -- 166. 173 . 177 Doir-à-Chatha -- 170 Druim Ballefeur -- 183 Dornoch -- 188. 205. Dalchiel -- 204 Dunrobin -- 220. [Continued on page 267]
gb0551ms-36-8-267 [Page] 267 [Continued from page 266] Eriboll -- 81. Eddrachyllis -- 91. Evelix -- 203. 209. Embo -- 204. Fiscary -- 39. 41. Farr -- 41. Feadain -- 105. Fraligal Burn -- 106. Feith Osdaile -- 173. Fleuchary -- 204. Fleet (Loch) -- 208. Farlary -- 260. [Continued on page 268]
gb0551ms-36-8-268 [Page] 268 [Continued from page 267] Grum-more -- 5. -- Grumbeg -- 6 & 20. Gleann Ardbhain -- 94. Glen-Cassley -- 128. Gruidie (River) -- 181. 185. Gruids -- 187. Golspie -- 220. Garbh Allt -- 232. 258. Gablon -- 239. Hacoin -- 74. Hope Ferry -- 80. Heilam Ferry -- 81. Handa Island -- 90. [Continued on page 269]
gb0551ms-36-8-269 [Page] 269 [Continued from page 268] Inslampie -- 35. Inch-na-damph -- 105. Invercassley -- 169. Klibreck, Hut circles at -- 2. -- Cross marked stone at. -- 3. Kinloch -- 75. 77. Keoldale -- 84. Kylesku -- 92. Kylestrome -- 93. Kirkton Quarry -- 215. Kyleog -- 242. [Continued on page 270]
gb0551ms-36-8-270 [Page] 270 [Continued from page 269] Langdale -- 36. Loch Ma-Naire -- 47. Laoghil -- 67. 78. Laxford Bridge -- 88. Loch-na-Coile -- 91. Loch Inver -- 105. Loanan -- 108. Loch Awe -- 108. Lairg -- 112. 187. Lairg Moor -- 145. Lednabirichen -- 205. Loch Lundie -- 218. Loch a Vicair -- 223. Ledmore Wood -- 247. Langwell (West) -- 255. Meall-a' Ghuib Mhoir -- 18. Melness -- 66 Mound -- 222. 215. 195. Morvich House -- 226. Morness -- 253. [Continued on page 271]
gb0551ms-36-8-271 [Page] 271 [Continued from page 270] Newton Point -- 212 [Continued on page 272]
gb0551ms-36-8-272 [Page] 272 [Continued from page 271] Oscar's Grave -- 94. Oldany. -- 97. 101. Oykell -- 112. 128. 168. 172 The Ord. -- 113. 184. Ospisdale House -- 195. 239. Ordan Farm -- 250. Proncycroy -- 206. Pittentrail. -- 231. 258. [Continued on page 273]
gb0551ms-36-8-273 [Page] 273 [Continued from page 272] Rifagil -- 36. Rhinavie -- 58. 70. Rhitongue. -- 73. Rhiconich -- 88. 92. Rhianbreck -- 131. Rosehall -- 170. Radoich (burn) -- 181. Raemore -- 183. Redhouse -- 213. Reidchalmai -- 232. Rogart -- 232. Rossal -- 237. Rhivra Burn -- 239. [Continued on page 274]
gb0551ms-36-8-274 [Page] 274 [Continued from page 273] Stewarts Park -- 3. Syre -- 26. 32. Skail -- 34. Sagairt-Ruadh -- 36. Swordly -- 40. Skelpic -- 45. 49. 53. 71. Skerray -- 52. Seanachaisteal -- 85. Scourie -- 89. Stronechrubie -- 108. Strath Fleet -- 135. Savalbeg -- 161. - 136 Sidney House -- 146. 139. Shiness -- 140 Saval Moss -- 148. Sallachy -- 158 Skelbo -- 207 St Kearnan -- 219. Skaig -- 234. Spinningdale -- 247. 239. Swordale Wood -- 250. Truderscaig -- 25. Torrisdale -- 51 Tongue -- 65. Torgawn -- 94. Traligill -- 107 Torrobol -- 131. Tutim -- 168. Tirry (river) -- 177. Torboll -- 198. Thanes Cross -- 204 Torbuie -- 233. [Continued on page 275]
gb0551ms-36-8-275 [Page] 275 [Continued from page 274] Varraich -- 73. [Continued on page 276]
gb0551ms-36-8-276 [Page] 276 [Continued from page 275] Lairg 15th May 1909. Here we arrived in time for dinner last night after a cold journey from Edinburgh. Snow was falling almost continuously as we passed through the high moors in the north of Perthshire and in Inverness-shire. On the slopes of the hills near the summit by Dalnaspidal we saw several herds of deer. The hotel here is situated at the extreme S.E. [South East] end of Loch Shin on a bank about 100 ft. [feet] distant from the Loch. It seems well managed & comfortable, though, as it has been snowing heavily this forenoon, it is bitterly cold. Ben More which towers up on the horizon 20 miles away, is covered in a white mantle. This afternoon we leave at 2.0 for Atnaharra in an open public motor (a lorry-like vehicle with a bench across it,) and our journey of 22 miles does not promise to be a comfortable one. A bitterly cold drive over lonely moors with splendid views of Ben More, Ben Clibreck, and other snow clad mountains brought us to Altnahara about 4.0. Here is a shooting lodge, rented by Mr. Baxendale a few cottages and [End of volume 2]