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this unassuming hotel which is remarkably
clean and comfortable. - The scenery is less
grand than at Lairg, but the place is more
solitary and a little less cold. There are two
other visitors, both Englishman, one a fisher,
who has toiled all day for one trout, the other
a middle-aged cyclist, whom we met at
Lairg, and who is en route for Cape Wrath.
Farr
After tea, Jocelyn and I set out for Klibreck, where
Mrs. E. Morrison had told me of a standing stone.
On enquiring the way at the farm buildings
I learned from the shepherd that not far off
on the hill side to the S. [South] was a hut circle and
some cairns. These he took us to see. They are
[Margin] Unnoted
situated at the E [East] end of a ridge about ½ m. [mile] S. [South] of Klibreck
Ho. [House] and consist of a circle somewhat oval in
form with diameter of 28’ x 36’ enclosed by a
Stoney bank about 8 ft. [feet] across and 18” to 2’
high with an entrance towards the S.E. [South East].
In its immediate vicinity are some ten or
twelve small round cairns covered with
vegetation, ea. [each] about 15’ diameter and 2 ft. [feet] high.
The shepherd told me of other similar remains
on the moors. Locally the cairns are supposed
to be the graves of King Harald’s warriors
and the circle the fort in which they made their
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last stand! On the top of a knoll to the
[Margin] Unnoted
S.S.E. [South South East] of the farm buildings and about 300 yds [yards]
E. [East] of the last are the remains of a circular
enclosure. The Interior diameter is about 28’
the surrounding stoney bank about 12’ across
and the height, on the S. [South], where the natural surface
of the ground declines, about 3’ externally and
about 1 1/2’ in the interior. About 1/2 mile
S.E. [South East] of the farm buildings on a piece of
marshy ground to the S. [South] of the enclosure
called Stewart’s Park, are two upright slabs
of undressed stone within 6 or 7 feet of each
[Margin] Unnoted Celtic
other. On N. [North] face of the most Southerly is,
roughly chiselled out, a Celtic cross long-shafted with
the arms expanding towards the ends,
and the angles at the points of intersection
rounded. The height of the stone above ground
is 3’.10”: its breadth 14”. Total length of cross ex:
:posed 42”. Upper arm 8”, side arms 4 1/2”
stem 32”. About 40’ to the W. [West] of
the standing stone
[Margin - Sketch inserted here]
are the foundations of a small rectangular
building. Its outline is now somewhat indef:
:inite. Externally it measures about 21 ft. [feet] over
all. internally the diameter seems to be about
12 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West] by 20 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South]. At the
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NE [North East] corner a larger mass of debris suggests
some additional structure at that point. Numer:
:ous large stones protrude from the ground in
the vicinity but none of them, as far as ascertain:
:able, show any symbols. On the lowest
slopes of the hill, immediately to the South, are
numerous foundations of buildings, which
indicate a considerable settlement at some
remote period, or only previous to the clearances
in 1810.
Sunday 16th May.
Still very cold, but a trifle less
rigorous than yesterday. Attended the U.F. [United Free]
Church and spoke to the Rev. [Reverend] Mr. Mackay,
afterwards arranging to go to Grum-more
Broch etc. tomorrow. In afternoon we
walked along the N. [North] side of the loch and
found about 1/2 m. [mile] E. [East] of the cross-roads on
[Margin] See p. [page] 18
the underside of the road by the loch, three
hut circles and a number of small cairns
chiefly on the lower side of them. The
entrances, as usual, to the S.E. [South East]. In the
evening MacIntyre, Mr. Baxendale’s keeper,
came to see me and offered to take me
to the groups of tumuli N. [North] of Achness on
Tuesday. I found him a very intelligent
man, interested in the etymology of the
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local place names &c.
Farr. Mon. 17th May.
Met Mr. Mackay at the manse
at 10.0 and bicycled along the N. [North] side of the
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 54
loch to the broch at Grum-more (Mr Mackay’s
spelling) or Gruamamor (O.S.) [Ordnance Survey] It is situated
on the shore of the loch about 4 m. [miles] from
Altnahara Inn. It is much di:
:lapidated. The entrance faces the W. [West] and
is almost closed to the outside. One of the
door checks is still in situ on the right of the
passage and 3 ft. [feet] in from it on the same
side the entrance to the guard chamber is
still observable, but almost closed with debris.
For a distance of 9 ft. [feet] towards the Interior i.e.
from the door check, the covering stones re:
:main on roof of the passage. The breadth
of the passage towards the Interior is 2’.6”
its height is not ascertainable. The entrance
to the guard chamber is 2 ft. [feet] below the roof.
The Interior diameter is 29’ to 30’ and the
thickness of the wall on the top 10 ft. [feet]. Through
the passage 12’.6”. The highest portion of
the wall is about 10 ft. [feet] above the lowest
portion of the interior. About 21’ to the
right of the entrance is the entrance to a
chamber almost filled with stones and
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from opposite the doorway, round by the
N. [North] to the W. [West] there seems almost a continuous
chamber - as the top of it is almost level
[Margin] Probably a chamber + outer stair
with the top of the entrance passage it
cannot be a gallery. At about the
level of the top of the door way, there is a
ledge or scarcement about 10” broad on average, running
around the interior and formed by the
thinning of the wall upwards. The masonry
below is large and bonded into the wall
showing it to be an integral part of the
original construction. Thence we
[Margin] (Unnoted)
bicycled on to Grumbeg (O.S. [Ordnance Survey] Gruamabeag)
where on the top of the E [East] wall of the en:
:closed ancient burial ground of the
Aberach Mackays and about 6 ft. [feet] from
the S.E. [South East] corner, Mr. Mackay directed my
attention to a stone with a singular cross
on it. The stone measures 28” in length
6” in depth and 7” in width. Incised on
it at one end is a curious cross, 13” long & occupy:
:ing the breadth of the stone. The top &
bottom arms are slightly longer than the
side ones and all have at the
ends semicircular expansions - those at
one end and on one side (the other side
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being apparently imperfect) being relieved
with two small triangular compartments,
while the semicircle at the opposite
end contains a figure resembling
a W. - a few feet to the N. [North] of the above,
[Margin] Unnoted.
also on the top of the wall, is a similar
slab with a quadrangular figure 8”
square incised on the face of it and
by two intersecting lines, itself divided
into 9 small square figures. Within
[Margin] Unnoted
the grave yard lies a small triangular
stone of micaceous schist, 20” x 18” x 4” thick
showing on its face three well defined
cup-marks, of about 3” dia. [diameter] and 1 1/2” depth.
Towards the base of the stone is a less well-
defined marking (This is accurately des:
:cribed & illus. [illustrated] in the Pro. S. of A.S. [Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland] 10 &c.).
On our return journey we met the
shepherd from Grumbeg near the
[Margin] see p. [page] 18.
hut circles & he pointed out the position
of another and a number of cairns
on the higher ground to the N. [North]. The
boulders on which formerly rested a
large, flat stone, illustrated in Mr. Horsburgh’s
paper, are situated at the road side,
about 300 yds. [yards] to the E [East] of his house.
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The covering slab was removed & broken
up for road metal many years ago.
Nearly all the shepherds in this part
of the country are border men, whose
fathers were imported by Dr. [Doctor] Robson Scott
when he introduced the Cheviot sheep.
There are Ormistons, Turnbulls, Elliots,
Chisholms, Andersons, and Borthwicks.
[Margin] See Sage’s “Memorabilia domestica”
The ruined remains of crofter settle:
:ments are numerous around the
loch, which bespeak a large population
formerly. Hut circles and associated
cairns also abound and it is now quite
apparent to me that to chronicle all the relics
of this class is impossible. I got back to
lunch at 1.30 and Jocelyn returned from
fishing having caught a 4 lb. [pound] salmon just
when she started. At 2.15 we set out for
the loch to row down and examine the
broch on the S. [South] side. It is situated on a
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 54
small island about 1 1/2 miles E. [East] of Klibreck
and is connected with the shore by a
causeway of rough boulders about 10 ft. [feet] broad
and about 100 ft. [feet] long. The Interior is filled
with debris to a height above the level of the
top of the doorway and almost to that of the
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first gallery. The height of the wall exposed on
the best preserved portion of the exterior is
11 ft. [feet] and it is not much less at any point.
Internally the wall rises only about 4 ft. [feet] above the
debris. At the highest point the wall is 13’.6”
thick. The entrance is towards the E. [East] through
a passage, now almost filled up with stones, 2’.6”
wide towards the outside, and 3’ wide at
10’ inwards. There has been a guard chamber
on the right the entrance to which is blocked
with fallen stones. The doorchecks are not
visible. The covering stones remain in
situ over the greater part of the entrance
passage. The interior diameter is 31 feet. A stone wall flanks the broch
at 15 ft. [feet] distant towards the shore side
and swings round towards the broch
near the entrance where the mass of
fallen stones conceals its connection.
This wall has been pierced with a doorway
3 ft. [feet] wide at the end of the causeway, the
jambs of which remain in position.
[Margin] Unnoted.
On the top of a knoll about 200 yds [yards] to the
S. [South] of the broch is a cairn with a diameter
of about 18’ and about 40 yds. [yards] to the S. [South] a
circle surrounded by a stoney bank, about
35’ intr. [interior] diameter with the entrance towards the S.E. [South East]
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We trolled home through very rough water
but beyond each touching a fish got no excite:
:ment. Our letters brought news that Mary
has tonsilitis at St. Cuthberts, which worries me.
Loch Naver seems good for salmon & sea trout
fishing, but not for trout. The landlord, however,
rents a small trout loch in the hills, not yet,
however, fishable.
Tues. [Tuesday] 18 May.
A showery morning but not quite so cold.
The Minister called for me at 9.30 and having
picked up McIntyre, the keeper, we set out over
the moors for Loch Coire nam Feuran, 7 miles
distant as the crow flies in the neighbourhood
of which are numerous “tumuli” &c. On our
way thither, by the side of the old drove road
from Strath Naver to Lairg, and about 1 mile
S.S.E. [South South East] of the broch on the S. [South] side of Loch Naver,
[Margin] Unnoted.
we found a hut circle the walling of which
for 2/3 of its circumference was exposed.
The Internal diameter was about 34’: the
thickness of the wall about 5’ widening at
either side of the entrance so as to form
an entrance passage about 9 ft. [feet] in length;
the breadth of the passage was not, however,
ascertainable. The entrance as usual
was towards the S.E. [South East]. The “wall” or
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circle of stones was composed of boulders
of moderate & various sizes with larger stones on
the exterior. There was no appearance of
[Margin] Unnoted.
building visible. A short distance to the
E. [East] lies another circle, overgrown with
turf, with about a dozen small round
cairns of about 15 ft. [feet] diameter lying
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 35.
around it. Loch Coire nam Feuran
is a narrow loch about half a mile in
length, having on its south side a picturesque
wood of old birch trees, in rear of which is a
fresh green hill, formerly cultivated, a:
:round the S. [South] & E. [East] side of which are the
foundations of numerous crofters dwellings &c.
On the N. [North] side of the loch at the top of the
bank, which rises from its shore are
also remains of crofts and in their
vicinity several small round cairns
of the usual size and appearance.
One of these near the W. [West] end, unnoted, is
circular about 2’ high, covered with heather,
16’ or 17’ in diameter and with an accumulation
of about 10” of peat on the top. I have pierced
the covering of many of these so-called
tumuli and find the stones almost always
at from 8” to 10” beneath the surface.
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About 60 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the last is a similar cairn
and about 350 yds. [yards] N. [North] of that is a circular
enclosure of the usual type with a small
round cairn about 40 ft. [feet] N.E. [North East] & another
about 80 ft. [feet] to the W. [West]. About 100 yds. [yards] N.E [North East] of
the first circle is another of similar type.
All these occupy the crest of a ridge about
500 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the W. [West] end of the loch. To the North of this
ridge lie two small hills – the one about
300 yds [yards] E [East] of the other. On the former are
a number of small cairns on the
summit and along its Western face
but no signs of hut circles. The W. [West] hill
presents several features of interest. On
its E. [East] slope is an enclosure of an
irregular oval form having its lower
or E [East] end open like a horse shoe. Its longest
diameter is about 70 ft. [feet] and the breadth
across the open end 33 ft. [feet]. It is surrounded
by a rough line of boulders which may
have formed the base of a turf wall.
At the W. [West] end there appears to have been
a narrow entrance and on the left of it
the foundations of a small circular hut
with an internal diameter of about 6 ft. [feet].
Immediately outside to the W. [West] are the
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remains of a singular enclosure – trilobate
in form – having apparently had three
chambers radiating off a common centre.
These chambers measure internally about
6’ x 4’ and the Interior diameter
of the structure bisecting the N. [North] and S. [South] chambers
which are nearly in line is 28 ft. [feet]. The
measurement through the chamber to the
S.E. [South East] to the centre of the opposite wall is 17 ft. [feet].
The entrance is doubtful but appears to
have been through the main wall to the
S.E. [South East]. About 30 ft. [feet] N. [North] of this enclosure is
the outline of a small irregular oval
measuring internally 11’ x 8’
with an entrance to the S.E. [South East]. Around
[Margin] No. 35 O.S. [Ordnance Survey]
the hill chiefly on the N. [North] and W. [West] are
14 or 15 small round cairns.
There are one or two long banks of
stone whose purpose is difficult to
determine and there seem to have
been other large enclosures now in
part obliterated. Crossing the
burn which leaves the loch at its
W. [West] end we (McIntyre & I for the minister
had long previously left to call on on one
of his flock) climbed the slope opposite
through the birch trees. Several
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cairns here appeared to me to be heaps of
stones gathered from the fields, but at the
top of the slope, near where the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] has
indicated tumuli, just outside the wood
about 1/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of the loch & nearly opposite
the bay that indents its S. [South] side is a
curious cairn, which bears the appearance
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 36.
of Antiquity. It is at highest only about
1 1/2 above present level, it is 38 ft. [feet] long – lies
N. [North] and S. [South]. It is about 7’ broad at the N. [North] end
but its general breadth for 26’ S. [South]wards is
about 5 ft. [feet] and, thence expanding, measures
10’ across at its S. [South] extremity.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 38.
About 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of the W. [West] end of the loch on
the W. [West] slope of the Cnoc Bad an t-Sithein and
by the side of the pass, which leads from Strath
Naver to Loch Coir ‘an Fhearna scattered
over a considerable distance extending
to several hundred yards are a great
number of small round cairns overgrown
with peat. The O.S. [Ordnance Survey] indicates 35 but there
must be about three times that number.
There are no signs of circles near or any
indication of a settlement. About half
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 37.
a mile N.N.W. [North North West] of these the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] indicates
6 tumuli – these are also of the small type
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and present no particular features of interest.
On turning homewards I felt I was tired as
we had traversed many miles of rough country,
through heather & over boggy tracts. I was there:
:fore not a little pleased to meet Jocelyn, who
had landed from her boat on the loch to look
out for me about a couple of miles from
home. She had fished all day with no success
and trolling home brought us none either.
I compute my mileage at about 16 today.
At breakfast we were rejoiced by a telegram
from Chrissie announcing that Mary was
much better. The keeper was a most interesting
companion, as in exchange for my lore he
gave me his and told me much of the habits
of the deer and the wild birds. He drew my
attention to the great number of stumps of
fir trees which appeared in the peat where
-ever it had been cut into by the burns or
the water at the sides of the lochs. No fir trees
grow here now.
19th May. A fine morning. We hired a trap
to drive to Dun Dornadilla. We had a
most lovely drive of about 12 miles through
moors becoming more and more lonely as we
went on. To the N. [North] Ben Loyal rose, an ideal
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mass of precipice and pinnacle,
while Westward were Ben Hee and Ben
Hope, both white with snow. Loch Meadie,
which we passed about 5 miles out was
very beautiful with Ben Laoghal rising
far away behind it, and its surface
broken by islands, covered to the waters
edge, with birches. We saw great numbers
of deer some of them quite near the road
regardless of our presence. A very steep
hill brought us down into Strath More
where beside the river rise the remains of
[Margin] Durness. OS [Ordnance Survey] 5.
Dun Dornadilla. The broch stands on the E. [East] side
of the Strath about 1/2 mile S. [South] of Alltnacaillich
at a bend of the Strath More river with
its base about 12 ft. [feet] above the ordinary
level of the stream. The broch is much
ruined but on the E [East] side a portion of
the outer wall above the entrance stands
to a height of 22 ft. [feet]. The inner portion of
this part with the galleries having fallen,
a buttress has been built for support of the
remainder. The rest of the structure is
reduced to the level of the floor of the
first gallery and varies from 6’ to 11’ in
height externally. The interior is 27’ in diar. [diameter]
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and the top of the walls at their present level 8’ in
thickness. The entrance faces the N.E. [North East] and
is now only 3 ft. [feet] in height. It is 3 ft. [feet] 4” wide at
the outside and is covered by a large triangular
block of stone 4’.8” along its base and 3’ in
height. The passage is for the greater part
blocked with stones and only the two
outer covering stones remain in position
At 3’.9” inward on the left side one of the
checks of the doorway stands in situ but
beyond this the passage is entirely ruined
on the opposite side there is still evidence
of the existence of the guard chamber.
The interior is filled up with debris almost
to the level of the top of the surrounding
wall. At a distance of about 24’ round
the circumference to the left of the entrance
in the interior is a large lintel which
indicates the entrance to a chamber, and
[Margin] This is the usual position of the stair-entrance to left of main entrance
directly opposite the doorway a small
opening reveals the top of a chamber roofed
with over-lapping flags. There is now
no sign of the staircase. There is the
usual balter on the wall. We lingered
round the broch for about 1 1/2 hours making
measurements & notes & eating our lunch.
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and we also took two photos of it – one showing
the entrance & the other its general appearance
and situation. The strath being protected
from the E. [East] wind we were able thoroughly to
enjoy the sunshine and warmth. Having
driven back to the cross roads near Altnaharra we proceded
1/2 m. [mile] along the road on the S. [South] (N. [North]?) of the Loch
to inspect the hut circles & tumuli on the
S. [South] slope of Meall a’ Ghuit Mhoir, which
rises to a height of 600 ft. [feet] in the angle between
the road to Tongue and Loch Naver.
About 1/2 mile E. [East] of the two mile-stones near
[Margin] see p. [page] 4
the bridge over the Mudale River on the S. [South] side
of the road are three hut-circles previously
described and a number of cairns, and
between these and the top of the hill to the
North there must be nearly 100 more cairns
and a number of circles. The circles
are mostly on the upper part of the hill
About 200 ft. [feet] above the road is a circle
of very distinct outline. Its internal diar. [diameter]
is 35 ft. [feet]: the thickness of the enclosing
bank 5 ft. [feet] the entrance to the S. [South] about 5 ft. [feet]
wide. About 100 ft [feet] to the N.E. [North East] is another
circle overgrown with heather and on
the West end of the top of the hill another
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[Continued from page 18]
with the usual features and the entrance
to the S. [South]. About 120 yds. [yards] E [East] of this and
between it and the highest point of the
hill lies a circle of peculiar type. Its
internal diameter is 6 ft. [feet] from E to W. [East to West] and
7 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South]. The entrance which is
narrow is to the S. [South]. The enclosing banks
[Margin] ?A kiln.
which are covered with heather, but composed
of stones beneath, are about 10 ft. [feet] broad
on either side. On the N. [North] the bank
is less distinct. There is a slight depression
of about 5 ft. [feet] diameter before the entrance.
About 70 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the summit is a
very well defined circle. The surrounding
bank is about 1 1/2 ft. [feet] high and at the entrance
to the S.E. [South East] on the E [East] side is a large upright
slab standing 1’.9” above the present ground
level & forming a portal. The internal
diameter is about 24 ft. [feet]. In front are
several cairns. These cairns are round
but seldom circular being in general oval
in outline measuring about 15 ft. [feet] by 12 ft. [feet].
They lie with the longest axis in no particu:
:lar direction and though usually around
the hut circles are not always associated
with them. In the case of one I observed three large
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[Continued from page 19]
flat slabs set on end in line leaning against
the one side giving the cairn a more carefully
finished appearance. After tea we fished
for an hour or so in the Mudale river but
without much success.
26th. May. A wet morning. I Said farewell to
Altnaharra sorrowfully and took the road
on my bicycle along the N. [North] side of the loch.
Although threatening for a time, the rain
kept off and by the time I reached the lower
end of the Loch it was fine. On my way I
looked out for the boulders described by
Mr. Horsburgh on the top of which formerly
lay a large flat slab. The slab has long
since been broken up for road metal. The
boulders are by the S. [South] side of the road about
300 yds. [yards] beyond the shepherd's cottage at
Greem-beg. It is very doubtful if they have
been placed in their present position otherwise
than naturally. About 30 ft. [feet] further on, on
[Margin] Unnoted.
the opposite side of the road is a small
circle surrounded by a stony bank about
3'.6" across except where there is an entrance
to the S. [South]. It is slightly oval with an internal
diameter of 7' x 9' the longest axis being
towards the entrance. To the N. [North] of the small
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[Continued from page 20]
knoll immediately in rear of this circle
are 10 or 12 small cairns of the usual
type one or two of which appear to have
been opened. Leaving my bicycle in the
heather about 50 yds [yards] back from the road
I crossed the river by a most primitive
suspension bridge & walking about 100
yards along the river bank towards the loch
I found the stone with the hole in it to
which Mr. Mackay at Altnaharra had
directed my attention. It has within
6ft. [feet] of the stream about 400 yds. [yards] from the
[Margin] Evidently an old mill stone.
loch. It is an irregularly shaped slab with
a roundish tendency of 3' dia. [diameter] from N. [North] to S. [South] & E [East] to W [West]
and 5" thick. At 11 1/2" from its S. [South] end is
a circular hole 6" across and 3" deep.
The sides are vertical and the bottom is slightly
convex. From the upper edge a narrow channel
1" wide and 11 1/2" long has been chiselled to the
side of the stone. The stone is of the ordinary
grey rock of the district. About 1/2 m. [mile] W. [West]
at the E. [East] end of the wood on the S. [South] side of
the loch and on a short spit of land pro:
:jecting into it are the remains of a broch
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 34
marked "hut circle" on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey]. It has
been built of very large stones and has been
[Continued on page 22] |
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| gb0551ms-36-8-22 |
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[Continued from page 21]
most completely demolished. Only on the E. [East] side
is any walling visible & that for a short dis:
:tance N. [North] of the entrance. The N. [North] side of the
entrance passage remains entire to a height
of 2'.9" at the outside. The passage has been
12' in length and at 3'.9" from the outside
on the right has been the entrance to the
guard chamber. The chamber shows signs
of secret excavation. The whole diameter
of the broch has been about 52 ft. [feet]. The en:
:trance has faced the S.E. [South East]. The landward
end of the spit has been marshy or probably
partially under water and is crossed by a
causeway which runs in the direction of the
entrance. At 38ft. [feet] distant from the entrance
are the ruins of a wall which flanked the
broch on the landward side & apparently
curved inward towards it on the E. & W. [East & West].
Retracing my steps to Achness over some 3/4 mile
of marshy ground I crossed 'Mhail Aird
by a bridge where it dashed down in cascades
over the rocks to join the Naver. About 1 1/2 m. [miles]
beyond the bridge up the river & rather more
than 1/2 m. [mile] E [East] of it on the shoulder of the Cnoc
na Gamhna & about the 500' contour line is
a large group of tumuli. They are many
[Continued on page 23] |
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[Continued from page 22]
score in numbers with a few hut circles
[Margin] Farr O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 39.
interspersed among them especially towards
the S. [South] end. The cairns are of the usual
small class and the circles present no
unusual features though one or two of them
are remarkably well preserved with the
walls about a couple of feet high and with
upright stones of about the same height on either
side of the entrance. At the extreme S. [South] end
of the group and at the edge of the swampy
ground is a peculiar construction. Two
[Margin] ?kiln.
mounds apparently composed of earth & small
stones about 30 ft. [feet] long 12 ft. [feet] thick and 4' to 5' high
lie parallel about 6 ft. [feet] apart in N. [North] & S. [South] direction.
Between them, are two well defined depressions
the one at the N. [North] end measuring about 8' (long) x 6' (broad) &
unbanked up to the N. [North] end. The
S. [South] hollow measures about 7' x 6'. They are
divided from each other by a ridge joining the
mounds about 4 ft [feet] long and 2 ft. [feet] broad from
which large stones protrude suggesting walling.
At the S. [South] end of the S. [South] hollow lies a flat lintel
3 ft. [feet] long and 20" broad. it is supported on
stones at either side & is at present a few inches
above the soil underneath which is free from stone
& is quite loose. About 1/2 m. [mile] to the S. [South] just above
[Continued on page 24] |
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[Continued from page 23]
the 500’ contour line and 200 yds [yards] N. [North] of the 2nd. tributary
of the Mhail Aird are two hut circles within about
20 ft. [feet] of each other. That nearest the river is very well
[Margin] Unnoted.
preserved. It is slightly oval measuring 36 ft. [feet] x 33 ft. [feet].
The enclosing wall is 6 ft. [feet] thick. The breadth of the
passage 3 ft. [feet] the exterior angles of which are care:
:fully rounded with an outline of large stones.
There are signs of an ancient fence of stone & turf
enclosing apparently about 1/2 acre in which the circles are
situated. Across the stream to the S. [South] and higher
up the slope of the hill to the E. [East] are many cairns
Proceeding S. [South] at the same level, 500’ to 600’, round
the W. side of the Cnoc na H’Iolaire one encounters
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 41
cairns in many hundreds stretching round the
shoulder of the hill for fully a mile and
over an area of nearly half a mile in breadth.
The cairns are all of the usual sort – round
& about 2 ft. [feet] high. One of the curious constructions
with a hollow between two mounds was observed
about the centre of the group. There are
a few hut circles among the cairns,
but proportionately very few. I counted
about half a dozen. Across some
lower ground opposite the W. [West] end of
[Continued on page 25] |
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[Continued from page 24]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 42
Loch Truderscaig rises to the E. [East] a spur of
the Cnoc Bad an Leathaid between the
Allt na Creadha on the E. [East] and the Allt
Truderscaig on the W. [West]. Here also about the 600 ft. [feet]
level are numerous cairns and one or two
hut circles, while a mile beyond to the E. [East] about
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 43
the same level is seen on the sky-line
another large group. If these cairns
represent the graves of the occupants of the
hut circles there must have been many
more of the latter than are now visible.
The cairns and circles extend almost con:
:tinuously along the slopes facing the Abhainn
a’ Mhail Aird, on the W. [West] over the watershed
to the N. [North] of Loch Truderscaig and the South
end of Loch nan Cuidhean (or Rimsdale) The
cairns present the same features, some very
few have been opened, perhaps to dig out rabbits
and there is no indication that any are of
greater antiquity than the others. Though
I had the furthest out group in full view
I did not actually examine them at close
quarters as I was many miles from
where my bicycle lay in the heather and
it was getting late in the afternoon.
Just above Loch Trudescaig a bright green
[Continued on page 26] |
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| gb0551ms-36-8-26 |
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[Continued from page 25]
stretch of the hillside studded with ruins showed
where a crofter settlement existed before the
glens were cleared. Having reached my bicycle
I continued my journey to Syre over an excellent
road and reached my destination, Mr. Chisholm’s
cottage, where I found Jocelyn awaiting me. I
bicycled 12 miles and must have walked nearly
as many. I must own to having been a little
tired. (see Notes p. [page] 32 Antiq. [Antiquities] 6 – 387)
21st May. Mrs. Chisholm makes us very comfortable,
though we have to forego baths and a few other
items usually considered necessities. Her husband
was a farm manager to Mr. Sellar in the strath,
and is now a crofter, with a nice two
storied cottage, a small holding, and
a right of pasturage over a Common of 1500
acres. Feeling very tired this morning I
wrote up my notes left over from last night.
After breakfast and after interviewing Mr.
Chisholm, from whom I learned of the ex:
:istence of an earth house, I set out on foot
about 11.0 to explore the E. [East] bank of the
Naver up to near its outlet. Crossing
the Naver by the road bridge at Syre we pro:
:ceeded by a path down the right bank.
From within 3/4 m. [mile] of the bridge for nearly
[Continued on page 27] |
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[Continued from page 26]
3 miles one meets numerous groups of
cairns, many marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] maps but
also many others. They lie mostly on a
level area which intervenes between the
flat land near the river and the higher ground
behind. They present little difference in
appearance; round, composed of boulders and
about 2 ft. [feet] high in the centre and 12 - 14 ft. [feet]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 25
diameter. In the group situated about 2 m. [miles]
S. [South] of the bridge is a cairn of peculiar appear:
:ance. It lies N. and S. [North and South] and seems to be
formed of two or probably three ordinary cairns
connected each by a narrow neck. The third
portion is entirely overgrown with heather
and is not very distinct. The other two
measure over all 45 ft. [feet] in length. The
N. [North] cairn 17’ long – by 12’ broad at the widest
part connected by a neck which gradually
contracts till it is about 4 ft. [feet] wide & gradually
expands to join the S. [South] cairn which is 15 ft. [feet]
long and 12 ft. [feet] broad. The length of the
connecting portion which is very distinct
is 3 ft. [feet]. The connecting neck of the third cairn
is also 3 ft. [feet] long & about 4’ wide & that cairn
appears to be about 12’ or 13’ long. No part of
the construction is more than 18” high.
[Continued on page 28] |
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[Continued from page 27]
It does not lie quite in a straight line. These
do not seem to be cairns that have been
connected by delapidation. The outline is
too regular and continuous. A dozen or
more cairns of the usual type lie around
none of them ruined. About half a mile
further on, on the top of a bank about 100 ft. [feet]
above the river a somewhat similar construc:
:tion is observable but it continued down the
slope of the bank to the N. [North] and curved round
in such a way as to suggest a ruined wall!
There are certain measurements of it in my notebook.
A short distance further on on the N. [North] side of the
burn that flows into the river opposite Ceann-na-
-Coille are a hut circle of the usual character
& more cairns. Half a mile to the S. [South] and about
the same distance E [East] of the river within an
ancient enclosure the ruined wall of which
is partially visible at the S.W. [South West] corner are
some 15 cairns of the usual type and a
hut circle. The latter is of the usual oval
form measuring 25 ft. [feet] from N to S. [North to South] towards
the entrance and 20 ft. [feet] across It is peculiar
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 28
in having attached to it on the right hand
side of the entrance another small circle
measuring 7’ x 8’ with walls about 2 1/2 ft. [feet] broad
[Continued on page 29] |
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[Continued from page 28]
It appears to have had two entrances one facing
the W [West] towards the entrance to the main circle
and the other towards the SE. [South East]. About 50 ft. [feet]
S.E. [South East] is a small circular depression about
7 ft. [feet] internal diameter with a low bank
about 6 ft. [feet] across on the E. and W. [East and West] and
a very slight bank on the N. [North]. Here I
met the shepherd who told me that there
are many hut circles in the hills about,
and innumerable cairns. A hill
called Cnoc na-Fhala (?spelling) i.e. Bloody
knowe about 1/2 mile E [East] of the Clach an Righ
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 29.
is covered with cairns. The Clach-an-Righ
lies on a flat haugh beside the river. It is
the remains of a stone circle with a low
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 30.
cairn in the centre. Of the stones of the
circle two only are upright standing almost
N. and S. [North and South] of each other and 21’.6” apart.
They both stand with their broad sides at right
angles to the line of the circumference.
On the W. [West] half of the circle three stones lie
prone and between the two upright stones the
head of another protrudes through the turf.
With its end against the E. [East] face of the S. [South] upright
lies a large stone on its edge its opposite end
lying a foot or so beyond the line of the circumference.
[Continued on page 30] |
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[Continued from page 29
The diameter of the circle appears to be about 22 ft. [feet]
that of the cairn in the middle 11 ft. [feet]. The tall
standing stone to the S. [South] is 8 ft. [feet] high – 10” broad at
the top and 3’.6” at base. It is a flat slab 8” - 10” thick.
The other standing stone is 6’ high, 2’.9” broad at
base, and about 14” at top and about 8” thick.
The three fallen stones on the W. [West], counting from
the S. [South] stone Northwards, are 1st stone 9’ long, 2’.8” broad,
9” thick. 2nd 6’.6” long, 2’.8” broad & 8” thick
3rd lying on edge – 6’.6” long, 9” thick and 8” of its
breadth visible. The head
of the protruding stone is 2’ long. The slab
against the S. [South] stone is 5’.4” long 1’.9” broad where
most exposed and 3” to 4” thick. (The circle
is plotted in my note book.) Retracing
my steps to the bridge I crossed to the left
bank of the river – examined the hut circle
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 27
above Ceann-na-Coille found them of the
usual character. Saw the “tumuli” in the
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 26
distance to the N.W. [North West] but did not visit them
as they appeared to be of the ordinary class
which exist in thousands. About a mile
down the river from the suspension bridge
are a number of cairns between the road
& the river and about 1/2 mile further on
a hut circle & cairns on the opposite side
[Continued on page 31] |
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[Continued from page 30]
of the road. About 1 1/4 m. [miles] N. [North] of Ceann na Coille
and about 1/8 m. [mile] W. [West] of the road in the centre of
an old park and immediately behind a sheep
[Margin] Unnoted
fank is construction formed of two cairns
[Margin] ?kiln. ?too large for a kiln
of large stones converging towards the W. [West]
and 16 ft. [feet] apart at the E. [East] the dia. [diameter] of
the interior space being 31 ft. [feet]. The cairn on
the N [North] is 34 ft. [feet] long & 13 ft. [feet] broad; that on
the S. [South] 36 ft. [feet] long & 15 ft. [feet] broad. They both taper
towards the W. [West] end. The Interior space is
slightly hollowed out. At the S.W. [South West] end of
the S. [South] cairn there has been some excavation.
I am informed by Mr. Chisholm, Syre, for
long farm manager over this property, that
there existed here an entrance to an underground
dwelling. It was flagged over and to the best
of his remembrance was about 2 1/2’ high
and 2 1/2’ to 3’ wide. It entered from the
end of the S. [South] cairn on the S. [South] side and ran E [East] in the direction
of its length. This construction is similar
to the one noted on the hill above the Mhail Aird
only this is larger. (see p. [page] 23). The cairns are
about 4 ft. [feet] high. Here Jocelyn met me &
walked home. I did about 10 - 12 miles
today. After dinner we strolled a mile
or two down the glen. It was a glorious
[Continued on page 32] |
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[Page] 32
[Continued from page 31]
evening.
22nd May 1909. A lovely warm morning. Ac:
:companied by Mr. & Mrs. Chisholm we ex:
:amined the broch which occupied a com:
:manding position on a ridge above the
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 54.
Langdale burn. It is much ruined and
has been built of large stones. The interior
diameter is about 31 ft. [feet]; the thickness of the walls
on the S. [South] side where there is a steep bank to the
burn about 16 to 17 ft. [feet] on the N. [North] side about 15 ft. [feet].
The walls in the interior where most exposed about
3 ft. [feet] high. The Entrance is to the West by a passage
15 ft. [feet] long and 3 ft. [feet] wide at the outside. The wall
of the passage on the S. [South] side is 3’.6” high on the other
side its measurements are unobtainable. 3 ft. [feet]
from the Interior on the S. [South] side of the passage is a
built check for a door. At Syre on the
[Margin] Unnoted.
E [East] side of the road and quite close to it is a
small fortified enclosure locally known as
General Leslie’s fort. It is circular, surrounded
on the W. [West] by a ditch 36 ft. [feet] across from top of
rampart to top of counterscarp and 3 ft. [feet] deep
from the outside level. The bank of the enclosure is
9 to 10 ft [feet] high on the W. [West] and has been sur:
:mounted by a dry built stone wall about
15 ft. [feet] thick. The height of the bank to the Int. [Interior] is about 5 ft. [feet]
[Continued on page 33] |
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[Continued from page 32]
The Interior is about 52 ft. [feet] in diameter.
There has been an entrance by a mound across
the ditch on the S. [South] and apparently another
on the N.E. [North East] flanked by a wall. The rampart
is gone from the E [East] side where a stone wall
is being built out of its material and as the
interior of the fort is in cultivation what remains
of the construction is in danger of demolition.
The ditch has not been continued around the
N.E. [North East] side. Leaving Jocelyn to bring on the
luggage I set out on my bicycle. Calling
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 24
at Angus Gunn’s croft, his wife took me
to see the stone with the crescentic symbol
on it which lies against the wall at the N. [North] side of the field
before his house. It is as described. At
the upper end of the field beside the open
drain is lying a large stone 2’.3” long 1’.7”
broad with an oblong hollow in the direction
of its length, about 3” deep at the centre
and rising towards the ends which show
signs of attrition. I believe this to be
the stone mentioned in Vol [Volume] 11 of the Pro. [Proceedings]
S. of A.S. [of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland] as an ancient fort. The use of it
[Margin] ? lower stone of a saddle quern
as given locally, for tanning hides is
more probable. It is not a font! About
1/2 m. [mile] further on at Skail about 70 ft. [feet] E [East]
[Continued on page 34] |
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[Continued from page 33]
of the road in a clumb of birches on Adam
Mackay’s croft is the excavated chamber
[Margin] Unnoted.
of a cairn. The cairn which has been cir:
:cular has been almost entirely removed and
has been about 66 ft. [feet] in diameter. The length
of the chamber which lies NE and SW. [North East and South West] has been about 15 ft. [feet] but the
E [East] end is not defined It has been divided into
two at about 8 ft. [feet] from the S.W [South West] end by two
large slabs projecting from either side 2’.10” into
the interior and standing about 2’.6” in height
from the ground level & about 2’ apart. They are not exactly op:
:posite each other, that on the N. [North] being about
6” W. [West] of the one on the other side. The W. [West] com:
:partment of the chamber is about 8 ft. [feet] broad
and is formed of five large slabs set on end
the highest 5’.8” above ground and 3’.6” across
at broadest tapering to a point, the other
slabs are about 4’.6” high. The form of the
chamber is polygonal; the space between
the upright stones, where filled, is neatly built
with stones laid horizontally. Of the E [East] division
of the chamber only one large stone 4’.6” high and
3’.7” across remains standing on the N. [North] the
slab on the opposite side has fallen. There is
no sign of the passage into chamber. I was
assisted in measuring the chamber by the
[Continued on page 35] |
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[Continued from page 34]
crofter’s daughter, a nice little girl of 12, who
afterwards conducted me to the river to get
to the broch at Inslampie on the other side.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 53.
Quite half a mile off was a shepherd’s cottage
where someone lived who could bring the boat
across to our side. I was told to whistle!
but though I rammed my fingers into my
mouth I could produce nothing to carry nearly
the requisite distance. My guide then suggested
that her brother working with the rest of the family
in a field near by should be got to whistle. He however
knew that the occupants of the cottage were in the
hills cutting peats so he waded the river & brought
the boat across. The broch stands on a
projecting bank 70’ to 80’ above the Naver & is
protected on either flank by a deep ravine
It is a complete ruin. Neither the entrance
nor any of the chambers are discernible. The
thickness of the wall is 13 ft. [feet] and the diameter
of the interior 29 ft. [feet]. On the E. [East] side the wall
is visible in the interior to a height of 4 ft. [feet]
Returning to the road where lay my bicycle
I crossed into a birch wood & throwing my
-self on a bank beside a rivulet eat my frugal
lunch – a slice of cold mutton & a little cheese.
The wood anemones were growing in great
[Continued on page 36] |
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[Continued from page 35]
profusion all around and here and there patches
of primroses were flourishing about the mossy roots
of the birch trees. A few hundred yards down
the road I met a worthy who assured me
that the chamber of the cairn was the red
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 23.
priests church! The grave & stone of the
Sagairt Ruadh is as described. My next object
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 22.
was Cladh Rifagil. It is on a knoll near
the lodge but none of the stones visible bore
any artificial markings. Earlier I visited
Cladh Langdale with the same result.
A mile or so further on brought me to the croft
below Dun Kealmie on the Carnachaidh burn.
The crofter’s son a nice youth in service at the
Rifagil lodge, came & helped me to measure.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 52.
The broch is an absolute ruin and has been
greatly pillaged for stones, so much so that
I had great difficulty in finding even the
outlines of the wall. Neither the entrance nor
any feature remain visible. It occupies a
splendid situation on the end of a spur
of Craig Kealmie about 100 ft. [feet] above the
burn to which the slope is very steep. The
walls are 14 ft [feet] thick, Int. [Interior] diameter about (?) 30 ft [feet]
(Though I took this measurement I have not noted it)
On the haugh to the N. [North] is a remarkable
[Continued on page 37] |
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[Page] 37
[Continued from page 36]
group of cairns, hut circles &c. About 50 yds [yards]
[Margin] Unnoted.
from the burn N. [North] of the broch is an irregular
cairn about 44 ft. [feet] in length from E. to W. [East to West].
It appears to be formed of 3 separate cairns
in different alignment [Sketch inserted here.] The first portion at
the W. [West] end 7’ long, the middle portion 21 ft. [feet] long and
the last 16’ long. The last is less well defined
& near its junction with the middle portion
are some very large boulders. About 40 yds [yards]
W. [West] of the last cairn is a hut circle of usual type
with a dia. [diameter] of about 34 ft. [feet]. Close beside it to
the N. [North] is a cairn of a very definite S shape
about 3 ft. [feet] in height & measuring along its outline
111 ft. [feet]. Some distance to the N. [North] of this are two
large contiguous circles which have
been hollowed out to a lower level than the
adjacent ground. They are bounded on
both sides by great heaps of stone and
are divided by the remains of a stone wall
6 ft [feet] across. The South circle is 42 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter]
from N. to S. [North to South] and measures 17’ feet across the entrance
at the S. [South]. The N. [North] circle is 38’ in dia. [diameter] & 22 ft. [feet]
across the entrance. The bank or cairn on
the W. [West] side of the S. [South] circle is 23 ft. [feet] across & about
6 ft [feet] high at highest point & of less extent & lower
on the E [East] side while the E [East] bank of the N. [North] circle
[Continued on page 38] |
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[Continued from page 37]
[Photograph inserted, transcribed on following page] |
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[Page] 38
[Continued from page 37]
is conversely higher than the W. [West] bank.
About 50 yds [yards] N. [North] are two long banks of stone run:
:ning E and W. [East and West] the E. [East]most of the two of regular ser:
:pentine form, the Westmost of a curved form.
The former is about 2 ft. [feet] high on the S. [South] side but
considerably higher on the N. [North] where the ground
is lower. It is about 54 ft. [feet] long and 10 ft. [feet] broad
at the head. Towards the N.E. [North East] side of the haugh
are 4 or 5 more of these constructions with
their general direction E and W. [East and West] Some are
straighter than others. The haugh has been
under cultivation but the ridges carefully
pass to either side of these cairns. There are
numerous other cairns on the haugh and
across the road also circles. Some of the
cairns are about 25 ft. [feet] in length, 10 to 15
ft. [feet] broad and 3 to 4 ft. [feet] high. Towards the
S.E. [South East] is a cairn of about 4’ high, circular
with a diameter of 36 ft. [feet]. Being very tired
after this examination I gladly accepted
the invitation of the crofter’s wife to have some
milk. A plate of delicious scones & oatcakes
lay on the table for the children’s tea while
the daughter was attending to the porridge.
Here I learned of a passage under:
:ground said to be in the hills 6 miles
[Continued on page 39] |
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[Continued from page 38]
to the W. [West] discovered by the boys while
herding sheep. I expect it is the cave marked
on the 6” O.S. [Ordnance Survey] maps. A mile further on
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 50.
I reached Dun Carnachaidh perched on a
cliff on the E [East] slope of Cnoc Carnachaidh. It
is a complete ruin. Int. [Internal] diameter 30 ft. [feet]. Thickness
of walls 15 ft. [feet]. Doorway not recognisable.
The road down the strath is very beautiful
the banks of the river clothed with birch
woods. I got to the inn at Bettyhill about
6.30. It has passed under new management
& been added to and is most comfortable.
There are no other visitors.
23rd May. A day of much needed rest but a
horrible lot of correspondence to attend to.
This is a most beautiful place with coast
scenery quite as fine as any in Cornwall.
24th May. A lovely day. Called on Mr. Mackay
the schoolmaster who kindly accompanied
us to Fiscary to see the cairns. Here there
is a stretch of moorland lying about 1 1/2
m. [miles] E [East] of Bettyhill Hotel and stretching towards
the hamlet of Swordly. Over it lie small
[Margin] O.S [Ordnance Survey] [-–]
cairns in great numbers - some of them
rather larger than the usual run – with length
nearly twice their breadth – two of them measured
[Continued on page 40] |
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[Continued from page 39]
gave dimensions 28’. x 14’ and 21’ x 11’. They
have their longest axes in no particular direction
A ridge runs along the upper part of the
moor from E to W. [East to West] and crowning three
eminences are four large cairns. No. 1, the
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9 (Brough)
most Easterly is about 68’ ft. [feet] in diameter, circular,
and 15’.6” high to the apex. which a small cairn
has been built up recently. The cairn does not
appear to have been properly excavated but the stones
in several places have been pulled out probably
in attempts to discover the entrance or chambers
or in pursuit of rabbits. The latter seems a
frequent cause of the destruction of cairns
The 2nd and 3rd cairns lie several hundred yards
to the West, overlooking the Bay of Swordly to
which the ground slopes sharply down. The
Southmost of the two cairns does not appear
to have been excavated though the stones have
been a good deal pulled about. It is circular
with a diameter of about 52 ft. [feet] and is about
10 ft [feet] high to the top of the modern cairn on its
apex. It presents a peculiar feature. At
the N. [North] end is a broad platform of stones
which has been described as a neck con:
necting the two cairns it stops short
however at a distance of 7 ft. [feet] from the smaller
[Continued on page 41] |
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[Continued from page 40]
cairn. At a distance of 25 ft. [feet] from the base
of the cairn almost entirely around is
traceable a line of stones which appears to be
the outer edge of the platform continued
all around but overgrown with turf. To
establish this, however, excavation is necessary
though the ring of stones is regular at 25 ft. [feet] &
quite distinct. The 3rd cairn adjoining
has been excavated and is now a total
wreck. The chamber is half filled up with
debris and only two or three of the partition
stones remain the other upright stones having
disappeared. Its diameter has been about
46 ft. [feet] and its height 4 to 5 ft. [feet] The fourth
cairn still further to the W. [West] measures 28’ to
30’ in diameter and is about 6 ft. [feet] high. There
are no visible signs of chambers and the
cairn has been a good deal pulled about.
In addition to the cairns on Fiscary there
are the remains of hut circles. one measured
near the E. [East] cairn has a diameter of 29’
and an entrance to the S. [South] Another
on the N. [North] side of the road from Swordly to
Farr near the 1st house in the latter
[Margin] Unnoted.
township known as the Rath an Cruithal
is of the usual type measures 32 ft. [feet] in Int. [Interior]
[Continued on page 42] |
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[Continued from page 41]
diameter and has an entrance to the S. [South]
A “tunnel” is said to have been discovered many
years ago in the field adjoining. About 1 m. [mile]
N. [North] of the S. [South] end of Farr, on a promontory joined
to the mainland by a narrow neck and very
precipitous on either flank though accessible
from the sea or N.E. [North East] extremity are the scanty
[Margin] OS. [Ordnance Survey] 49. S. [Site]
remains of the castle of Borve. Nothing but
part of the foundations remain which
show a range of rectangular building with walls
about 7 ft. [feet] thick. The N.W. [North West] wall has for the
most part gone but the main building which
is on the W. [West] side of the promontory has been
narrow, and its plan is indefinite. The
top of the promontory slopes down towards
the seaward end where there are several
hollows, circular & rectangular, probably
foundations of structures of some kind. Below
them a ditch crosses the lower end of the
headland. The neck connecting it with
the mainland is traversed by a high rampart
and a ditch on the landward side and
there are the remains of a bank still
near the land on the N.W. [North West] side at the top of
the cliff further protecting the approach. On
the high heathy ground here the little
[Continued on page 43] |
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[Continued from page 42]
primula Scotica flourishes and is in full
bloom. There are also quantities of cowslips
in flower beside the crofts. Returning through
Clerkhill we made enquiries regarding the
broch of which I had a note as having existed
there but could find no trace of it. A little
to the Southward however on a croft which
bore the significant name of the Dun we
found the remains. The broch had stood
at the extreme W. [West] end of a low rocky ridge
but all that remained of it were a few large
stones in situ which had formed part
of the foundation on the top of the rock. The
buildings of the croft occupied part of the site
and the crofter told us that he had built
a new shed on a sort of round building
in which he had found a lot of grain.
(For position see 6” map.) We could find no
trace of a stone circle on Crag an Soiller.
It was 3. o’clock before I got home to lunch.
Our meal over we put up our rods & got
ferried over the Naver with the primary object
of inspecting the remains on Bal Margait.
This is a gravelly plateau elevated some 20’
above the Naver on its E. [East] bank and
about 1/4 mile in length & breadth. Its surface
[Continued on page 44] |
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[Continued from page 43]
is devoid of vegetation and is covered with
remains of constructions of various kinds. Cairns
abound - mostly small and circular. Towards
the S.W. [South West] end is a round cairn 22 ft. [feet] in dia:
:meter and about 4’.6” in height. About 100 yds. [yards]
N.W. [North West] of it is another measuring about 30 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter]
but only now about 2 ft. [feet] high the top of it having
seemingly been removed. There are numerous
hut circles presenting no unusual features.
From some of them all the material which formed the
banks has been removed leaving the stones
alone visible and showing two parallel rows of
large boulders with an interspace of about 3 ft. [feet] There is a
circle on the E. [East] side towards the S. [South] end
which is apparently formed in
similar fashion to a hut circle but there
is no apparent entrance to it. Its diameter
is about 24 ft. [feet]. On the summit of the cliff
whose face is covered with sand immediately
to the N. [North] of the burn which flows down towards
the S. [South] end of the plateau is situated the
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7.
Sandy Dun. It is a broch whose walls
are probably erect for a considerable height
but the interior is largely filled up with blown
sand. The entrance is towards the S.W. [South West]. The
Interior diameter is 29 ft. [feet] – the thickness of the
[Continued on page 45] |
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[Continued from page 44]
walls 12 ft. [feet]. About the top of the wall now
visible in the interior is a projecting ledge
about 10” wide on the upper surface. The slabs
which form it are an integral part of the
structure and the wall is thicker below them
than above. The outer wall is much ruined
and no other details are obtainable. A number of small cairns lie on the top of the cliff immediately to the W. [West] of the broch. Work
completed I fished for a little and got one
small sea trout. A native called after
dinner with a fragment of a beaker which
had been obtained from a cist discovered
by the ploughshare. The fragment was too
small to enable me to have any idea of the form
and the decoration was merely formed by dia:
:gonal lines in bands alternating in direction with a
slight ridge or moulding between. Later Mr.
Mackay, the schoolmaster, arrived with the
Book of the Mackay’s for me to see & stayed
until 10.30!
25 May. A falling glass and a most
unpromising morning – Cold & stormy.
Writing my notes up after breakfast we got
a trap round at 11.0 and set out for Skelpick.
[Margin] Of Brough 49a S. [Site] not a vestige remains.
Deeming it advisable to take the most distant
objects first, we left the trap at Skelpick Lodge
where the driving road ceased & set out for
[Continued on page 46] |
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[Continued from page 45]
Dunviden about 3 miles up the river. Jocelyn ac:
:companied me as far as Loch Manaar. It was
bitterly cold and blowing a gale. Dunviden is an
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 51
absolute ruin and the faces of the walls are
not easily obtained. The internal diameter
has been about 30 ft. [feet]: the thickness of the walls
about 16 ft. [feet] and the breadth of the entrance
passage at the only point where obtainable
which was near the interior, 3’.5”. Almost the
only walling visible is a small portion two
courses in height on the N. [North] side. none is
visible in the interior. The remains of a
crofter settlement in the immediate neighbour:
:hood probably accounts for the dilapidated
state of the building. It occupies an
extremely strong position on the summit of
a knoll that rises for a height of 70 or 80 ft. [feet]
above the haugh which stretches from its base
to the Naver. Its sides are very steep except
to the E. [East] where the approach from the high
ground behind is more accessible. Considerable
pains have been taken to fortify this.
From
either side of the entrance a rampart runs
[Continued on page 47] |
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[Continued from page 46]
S. [South] for a distance of about 45 ft. [feet] and swings
round on either side to meet the broch where
the banks are steepest. The most accessible
approach being from the E. [East] the defences are
strongest in that direction. Here the rampart
comparatively low on the inside has a steep
scarp about 12 ft. [feet] high & about 16 ft. [feet] distant
from its base is another rampart only two
or three feet high and stony. About 120 yds [yards]
E. [East of the broch on the top of a slight eminence
[Margin] Unnoted.
there are the remains of a stone circle. The
stones are irregularly placed and have probably
been moved in some cases. In the centre of a
cup shaped depression, where there has
probably been a cairn from the small round
stones which form its sides, stands a large
block of white granite rock 4’.6” high. 3’ across
and about 10” thick. One stone stands to
the N. [North] and another to the S. [South] of this block
12’ apart and other 5 stand irregularly
to the W. [West] of a line between them. Four of
the stones are set with their broad faces at
right angles to what was probably the line of
the circumference but as they stand they
do not form the arc of a circle. Near
Loch Ma Naire at its S. [South] end are some small
[Continued on page 48] |
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[Page] 48
[Continued from page 47]
round cairns. About 1 m. [mile] up the Auchanellan
burn a short distance N. [North] of its right bank
between the 300 and 400 ft. [feet] contour lines are
several hut circles of the usual type with en:
:trances to the S. [South] and around them a large
number of small round cairns. About
2 1/2 miles up the Skelpick burn on a low
ridge which lies between the high ground
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 19.
on the W. [West] and the burn, are numerous small
cairns of 12 or 14 ft. [feet] diameter. One near the
burn at the N.E. [North East] end of the ridge measures
21 ft. [feet] in length by 8 ft. [feet] in breadth and is about
2 ft. [feet] high. Its longest axis lies almost N. & S. [North & South]
At the N. [North] end of this ridge is a small area of
haugh land on the W. [West] or hill side of which
are the ruins of an ancient enclosing wall of
large boulders. About 100 yds [yards] back from the
burn and at the very end of the ridge on the
top of a sandy hillock is a well-defined
oval enclosure – measuring internally 12’ x 6’
It is surrounded by a bank of stones about 2 ft. [feet]
in thickness and has apparently a narrow
entrance about 1 1/2 ft. [feet] wide to the S. [South] & there
is a similar break in the wall opposite to
the N. [North] The longest axis lies N.E. & S.W. [North East & South West].
About 50 ft [feet] to the N.E. [North East] is a small circular
[Continued on page 49] |
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[Page] 49
[Continued from page 48]
enclosure with an internal diameter of about
7 ft. [feet] surrounded by a rude walling of stones
similar to the above and the usual hut circles
the Entrance is to the North. About 100 ft. [feet]
N.E. [North East] are the remains of another similar
small oval enclosure surrounded with large
boulders and set against the ancient en:
:closing wall. Its Internal measurements
are 9 ft. [feet] x 7 ft. [feet] The Entrance to the S. [South]. Abutting
on its N.E. [North East] side is a small circular mound
about 7 ft. [feet] in diameter walled all round with
boulders to a height of 2 ft. [feet] The top is covered
with turf and slightly concave.
At the N.E. [North East] was a rabbit hole between two
stones and into this I was able to insert my
arm and found immediately behind the
stones a space apparently of considerable
size: such as a rabbit would never
make at the entrance to its hole. The soil
which I scraped out with my knife was
loose and perfectly free from stones. I
could not detect any entrance. From the
top, I was able to drive in my surveyor’s
pin up to the head without encountering
any resistance. Close to the edge
[Continued on page 50] |
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[Continued from page 49]
of the burn just beyond the N.E. [North East] end of the
ridge is another small oval enclosure with an
interior measuring 12 ft. [feet] x 6ft. [feet] surrounded by
banks about 8 ft. [feet] thick on base. The exterior
about 1 ft. [foot] below the level around. This last
may occupy the top of a natural hillock. The
Glen of the Skelpick burn below this point
is one of the wildest and loneliest places
I have yet been in. The hills on either
side converge and their sides are thickly
studded with great white boulders between
which the heather grows tall & rank.
Walking is very difficult but rendered
a little easier by an occasional sheep track.
Being uncertain of my exact position I sought
the crest of the high bank on the W. [West] & found
myself exactly among the “tumuli” I was
[Margin] No. 18 O.S. [Ordnance Survey]
making for. They form a group of small
cairns of the usual circular sort and
among them I observed no hut circles or
other objects of interest. They lay along the
flat top of the moorland that slopes down
to Skelpick about 1/2 m. [mile] away. Here I met
Jocelyn who had spent the time in the
shelter of a small plantation. We took a
cursory look at the Skelpick broch which
[Continued on page 51] |
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[Continued from page 50]
I believe to be a horned cairn.
26th May 1909. A stormy wet morning so wrote
notes &c. About 11.30 it began to clear so we set out.
I went off to Torrisdale over Invernaver Bridge
& then taking the track across the Sandy plateau
on the W. [West] bank of the river and up over the cliffs
beside the sandy dun. It was a boisterous walk
and in the sandy region quite painful as the
wind drove the sand into my face with the
force of a gale & stung like whips. The pass over
to Torrisdale is very picturesque & is sheltered
to the S.W. [South West] by the high rocks. At Torrisdale
Tongue Par. [Parish]
I sought out the home of Dr. [Doctor] Hew Morrison and
was most kindly received. Miss Morrison took
me in hand to direct my steps. We first visited
the two cup-marked boulders. These are
situated on the rocky moorland about 3/4 m. [mile] S.W. [South West]
of Torrisdale adjacent to the track that leads to
Loch [--] The largest boulder that situ:
:ated furthest W. [West] is about 8 ft. [feet] high & 14 ft. [feet] in length.
On its S. [South] face chiefly on the flat and less abrupt
faces of the stone are groups of cup marks
of 2 to 3 ins. [inches] in diameter, the deepest about
1 1/2 ins. [inches] and a number of them now almost
worn out. The extent of the groups did not
appear to me very definite, though there seemed
[Continued on page 52] |
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[Continued from page 51]
to be two of about 12 cup marks each. About 10 ft [feet] E [East]
is a smaller stone about 6 ft. [feet] long and 4 ft. [feet] high.
On its N.W. [North West] face are about 26 small cup markings
and indefinite traces of more. The Southern face
is scored with deep lines crossing each other but in
no evident design. The extreme E. [East] end of the stone
is slightly concave and in its centre is an
oval boss or projection measuring about 8” x 5”
and 1 1/2“ deep, slightly undercut. Walking on
to Skerray we interviewed Mr. Telford the farmer
Tongue
of Skerry Mains and learned that the mouth
or entrance to the Earth house under his dwelling
is about 15 ft [feet] distant from the N.E. [North East] window. He
exposed it in April this (? last) year. The Lintel is
about 3 ft. [feet] across. It is entirely covered over again.
A short distance E [East] of the graveyard is a clay
mound about 25 ft. [feet] high. being excavated on its
N. [North] face. On the top of this is the Dun of Torrisdale.
Its outline and character are indiscernible but
the top of the mound is covered with debris
for the most part overgrown with grass. From
the size it is probably the scanty remains of a
broch. Returning to Mr. Morrisons I was
most hospitably entertained to tea & for the
first time tasted crowdy, a sort of fresh skim
-milk cheese, of which I have often heard. Miss
[Continued on page 53] |
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Morrison afterwards accompanied me to the top
of Craig Braan to look for the remains of Dun
Riaski but we failed to discover them. Dr. [Doctor] Hew
Morrison will be able to give me particulars.
I paid a short visit on my way back to Baile
Margit. I noted the circle where no entrance is
visible. It is 24 ft. [feet] int. dia. [interior diameter]. A thickening of
the stony bank to the S [South] probably marks the
spot where it was. I noted one or two flat
heaps of stones, circular, evidently the remains
of cairns with a diameter of from 50 to 60 ft. [feet].
These are situated near the middle of the S. [South] end.
27 May 1909. A stormy morning. Started in a
trap at 10.15 for Skelpick. Proceeding to the
Farr. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 49
so called “Brough” No. 49, to the E. [East] of the
small plantation near the farm buildings
I examined it most carefully and decided that
it is a horned cairn. It occupies the crest
of a ridge & is composed of large stones showing
not a trace of building. It has been much dilapidated
especially on the S.E. [South East] side from which great
quantities of stones have at one time been re:
:moved. There are various other signs of ex:
:cavation but no structural details have been
exposed. It is a circular cairn with a
diameter of about 43 ft [feet] and is from 7’ - 8’ high.
[Continued on page 54] |
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from four points roughly corresponding with the
cardinal points of the compass radiate “horns” in
the shape of low cairns measuring at the N and W [North and West]
20 ft. [feet] across at base and at the S and E. [South and East] 18 ft. [feet].
They are about 2 ft. [feet] high and project at the N. [North] and
W. [West] 20’ at the S. and E. [South and East] 26’ and 28’ respectively. The
N. and W. [North and West] horns are 67’ apart at their points, the
S. and E. [South and East] 55, while the W. and S. [West and South] are 77’ feet apart
and the N. and E. [North and East] 71. There are no signs of a
wall any where apparent at the base.
[Margin] Unnoted.
About 300 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the farm house of Skelpick
are the remains of a very large circular cairn.
The stones from it have in great measure been re:
:moved. The diameter from N. to S. [North to South] & E. to W. [East to West] has been
about 93 ft. [feet] The height is 6’ to 7’. There has been
a chamber near the centre of the S. [South] half, at about
23 ft. [feet] from the circumference. It has been excava:
:ted and ruined. It has probably been divided
into two by partition slabs, 2’.6” high & 3 ft [feet] across
which occur at 30 ft. [feet] from the outside. The chamber
appears to have been about 17’ in length. One
low upright stone remains in the inner division
on the E. [East] side.
About 100 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] of farm house are the
remains of another large round cairn, which
does not appear to have been excavated but
[Continued on page 55] |
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[Continued from page 54]
is much dilapidated. The diameter from N. to S. [North to South]
is 59 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West] 54 ft. [feet]. The height about 5 ft. [feet]
On the W. and S. [West and South] sides it has been much pulled
about. On the right bank of the Skelpick
burn directly to the W. [West] of the N. [North] end of the long
cairn there is exposed a bed of iron slag (?) 9 ins. [inches]
thick and 8” below the present surface. Some
4” - 5” beneath it is a bed of charcoal 2 1/2“ thick. The
slag is intermixed with portions of burnt wood.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 17.
The long cairn on the E. [East] side of the burn is much
as described. At the S. [South] end of the passage is a
small separately roofed chamber about 6 ft. [feet] in
length, 4 ft. [feet] broad and 4’.3” high from which
access is obtained to the 1st chamber through
a portal 2’.7” wide & 3’.6” high from present level
surmounted with a large triangular lintel nearly
10 ft. [feet] long & 2’.6” in greatest diameter. The first
or N. [North] compartment is divided from the next
by two upright stones about 3’.6” high, supporting
a lintel about 9’ long, 14” thick & 3’.6” deep. The
space between the division stones is 4 ft. [feet]. There is
one large upright stone on the E [East] side but none
remaining on the W. [West] The S. [South] chamber is formed
of 6 large upright stones – is polygonal. The
spaces between the uprights are filled with
regular horizontal building. At the N. [North] end
[Continued on page 56] |
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[Photograph inserted with text on reverse side and transcribed on following page] - Broch an Allt an Dun Skelpick |
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[Continued from page 55]
of the cairn are two projecting horns about 12 ft. [feet] across
at their base and 22 ft. [feet] long. They project somewhat
E. and W. [East and West] of the main direction of the cairn which
is N. and S. [North and South]. From point to point of horns measures
66’. The length of the cairn is 200 ft. [feet] and its breadth
at the S. [South] end 35 ft. [feet]. There is no sign of a retaining? wall
around it visible. The S. [South] end has been in part
removed. On the slope to the W. [West] lie a number
of small cairns and a great number lie on the
level at the top of the steep slope to the E. [East], about
100 ft. [feet] higher up. Towards the S. [South] end of this group
[Margin] Unnoted
and on a slight eminence stand a large
circular cairn with a diameter of about 54 ft. [feet].
It is about 8 ft. [feet] high and though the stones have been
pulled about here and there on the top it does
not appear to have been excavated.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 16
About half a mile N. (E?) [North] [East?] occupying the summit
of a rocky knoll, defended on the S. [South] by the
Allt an Duin or Allt a’ Chaisteil, and towering
100 ft [feet] or so above the plain which reaches from its base
to the river, are the ruins of a broch. The situa:
:tion is most commanding. The building though
much ruined if cleared of the debris which almost
choke it up would be found to be still of a con:
:siderable height. The walls are 16 ft. [feet] thick. The
Internal diameter 28 ft. [feet]. A scarcement projecting
[Continued on page 57] |
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[Continued from page 56]
about 1’.6” is built against the wall all around
the interior. The entrance is towards the N.W. [North West].
The passage for the first few feet from the exterior
is ruined but about half way it is only 2 ft [feet] wide
and curves slightly towards the S. [South] as it proceeds inwards
About 3’ from the outside on the right side of the
passage an upright stone is standing, probably one of
the door jambs but in rear of it there is no sign
of a guard chamber. In the Interior the wall
is still in parts 6 to 8 ft. [feet] high above the accumulated
rubbish and in parts 2 or 3 ft. [feet] higher than the top
of the scarcement. Externally the facing stones
have been to a great extent removed or have fallen,
and towards the N. [North] where highest the wall is still
6 ft. [feet] above the debris and the rubble in the centre
several feet higher. The ruination of the interior
obscures any details of chambers or galleries.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15.
About 120 below and almost half way between
the broch and the Naver is a circular enclosure
marked “Picts House” on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1’ scale. Its
internal diameter is about 36 ft. [feet] The wall
is about 8 ft. [feet] thick, built of large stones, show:
:ing in the interior 2 courses of boulders laid hori:
:zontally about 2 ft. [feet] high. The Entrance is from
the S.E. [South East]. The walls are higher and more im:
:portant than those of an ordinary hut circle
[Continued on page 58] |
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[Page] 58
[Continued from page 57]
but an absence of debris either outside or in the
interior shows that it is not a broch. It stands
on a slight elevation. Within 50 ft. [feet] to the E. [East]
is a hut circle of the ordinary type. At this
point we met the trap sent back from Bettyhill
to meet us. We were glad to get to it just as rain
began to fall heavily. A little over a mile nearer
Bettyhill we reached the famous cairns of Rhin:
:avie They are fully described. Though
[Margin] O. S. [Ordnance Survey] 11, 12, 13. (see p. page] 70) At Ach coillenborgie?
described and treated as two cairns I think
there is little doubt that the round cairn at
the N. [North] end (No. 1) and the long cairn to the
S. [South] of it have originally been one divided into
two by the old road which now separates them.
The long cairn does not rise much towards
the N. [North] end nor does it show any considerable
expansion or signs of chambers. No. 1 is
about 54 ft. [feet] in length and 48 ft. [feet] in breadth, & about 12 ft. [feet] high, No. 2
about 100 ft. [feet] long. No. 1 has been excavated and
is described. It is in a ruinous condition.
The third cairn has been described by Dr. [Doctor] Anderson.
The passage and outer chamber are now almost
entirely filled with debris, the S. [South] chamber is still
open & filled up with birch branches. The middle
chamber still retaining its covering slab is
all right. The arrangement of upright stones
[Continued on page 59] |
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[Continued from page 58]
stones at the N. [North] end is still in evidence. Dr. [Doctor] A.
mentions six - there are really several more
short standing stones and they appear to have
really outlined the horns of the cairn. A few
short standing stones can be observed pro:
:truding from the sides of the cairn.
Of the stone circle indicated to the N. [North] of the
group I could see no trace.
About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] on the E. [East] side of the road are
the scanty remains of a broch. It is very
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10.
much ruined and the elevation of the wall in
any part is now trifling. Its Internal dia. [diameter]
is about 28 ft. [feet]: thickness of wall 14 ft. [feet]. Entrance
to the N. [North]. To the right of the passage & about 8 ft. [feet]
distant from it the walls of a chamber have
been exposed. There are the remains of
various outbuildings around. The ruin
is on a slight knoll between the base of the
hill and the river.
Getting home in time for tea we afterwards
walked to Loch Mor about 1. [mile] away from
the hotel and, although it blew half a
gale I got a couple of good trout fishing
from the bank. Bettyhill is a charming
place to stay at and the hotel unpretentious
& most comfortable.
[Continued on page 60] |
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[Continued from page 59]
28 May. Packed & settled up & left Bettyhill on
bicycle for Achnabourin & Acharagaraidh. The
earth house at the first place is no longer accessible.
I was referred to the shepherd, James Mackay who
had been over 20 years on the ground, he in turn
referred me to another individual with antiquarian
leanings. This man working in a piece of marshy
land about 1/4 N. [North] of the farm house pointed out
to me an area of about 40 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter] in the centre
which he described as a “druids’ temple” and
said there was a paved way out to it from the
edge of the wood to the N.E. [North East]. The place had
been in the centre of a swamp and there were
signs of some construction but what, it was
impossible to say. About 150 yds [yards] E. [East] of the
road near the centre of the birch wood between
it and the river are the remains of a small
circular building about 10 ft. [feet] in diameter
with rude stone walling. To the S. [South] a few feet
distant is a small round cairn and in
front, where beneath the broken surface
many large stones are visible, is said to have
formerly existed an opening underground
18” to 2’ sq. [square]. Has this been a chambered cairn?
About 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the road on the summit
of a grassy knoll two boulders probably
[Continued on page 61] |
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[Page] 61
[Continued from page 60]
mark the entrance to the earth house as a
depression running S.E. [South East] for about 44 ft. [feet]
and probably indicates its extent. There are
said to have existed others here. On a hillock
immediately E. [East] of the road and between the
Wood and the farm house is a similar
depression running N. & S. [North & South] about 54’ in length
& nearly 9 ft. [feet] wide showing signs of stone building
at either side. This is perhaps rather wide to have
been one. It being now 12.30 and as I had
trysted a keeper at Borgie Bridge at 1.0’ I
had to postpone my further visit up Strath
Naver & cross the water shed by the Tongue
road. This road for bicyclists is absolutely
impossible! Its gradients are very steep
and its surface indescribably bad.
At Borgie Bridge I found no keeper!
My letter had not reached him & he had
gone to Tongue. Leaving my bicycle at
the stone, I got the assistance of a small
Farr. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 55.
boy to measure the site of the Borg. It is
situated close to the road on the S. [South] side about
300 yds. [yards] E. [East] of Borgie Bridge. A gravel mound
about 40 ft. [feet] high on the side towards the river situated
on the edge of the bank in which the high ground terminates has
been further strengthened in flank & rear by a
deep ditch 24 feet across with a scarp 12 ft. [feet]
[Continued on page 62] |
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[Continued from page 61]
high and a counterscarp about half that height.
The ditch is divided into two by a roadway across it
from the S.E. [South East] 14 ft. [feet] wide. It is not carried out through
the edge of the bank to the N. [North] at either side whose sur:
:face is 5 or 6 ft. [feet] below the top of the mound. On
the summit are slight remains of a circular build:
:ing with a diameter over all of about 52 ft. [feet], the
outline of which is not very definite. The diameter
of the top of the knoll is about 62 ft. [feet].
[Margin] Unnoted
About 2 m. [miles] S. [South] of Borgie Bridge and about 1/4 m. [mile] E [East] of
the Borgie on the S. [South] end of the ridge at about
300’ elevation is a group of about a dozen small
round cairns. In the vicinity are remains of old
enclosures probably connected with crofters.
[Margin] Unnoted
About a mile further S. [South] on the W. [West] slope of the
Druim Odhar and stretching up from the low
ground near the Borgie to about 150 ft. [feet] is an:
:other group comprising from 80 to 100 cairns
of usual small type. On the lower part of the
slope about 300 yds. [yards] distant from the river and
directly E [East] of an island is a well marked hut
circle with the door post on the left side of the
entrance standing. It is a pointed stone 3 ft. [feet] high
& 2’.10” across the base. It stands with its broad
face towards the passage & is 4 ft. [feet] distant from
the face of the other side. The wall of the circle
[Continued on page 63] |
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[Page] 63
[Continued from page 62]
is about 6 ft. [feet] thick and there is more debris of
stones about than usual. The interior diameter
appears to be about 30 ft. [feet] and what I take to be
the ruins of an inner wall on the W. [West] suggests
that at some time the size of the circle has been
reduced. Being now within sight of the
green patch of verdure which I was told was
the site of the crofts of Cracknie where the
[Margin] Cracknie Unnoted.
Earth house is situated I determined to push
on over the further 3 m. [miles] of desolate moor.
It was a dreary afternoon. The clouds gathering
on Ben Laoghal burst from time to time in
heavy showers and made the walking over
swampy peat bogs anything but easy. The
constant pipe of golden plover that flitted along
in front of me made the scene appear even
more dreary. The mark on my map being
wrongly placed I had the greatest difficulty
in finding the earth house & just as I was
leaving after half an hour‘s search I found
it right on the top of a green hillock, the
second from the N.W. [North West]. The entrance is
through a hole about 2 ft. [feet] wide under a slab
It is partly closed & a few flags lying outside
show that it has originally been longer.
I fixed the end of my tape line outside with
[Continued on page 64] |
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[Page] 64
[Continued from page 63]
a pin and lighting my candle made my first
entry into an earth house, In that lovely spot
without a human being within miles & the cliffs
of Ben Stomins towering up above it was somewhat
eerie. The passage I found to be about 3 ft. [feet]
wide and about 4’.6” to 4’.10” high when about 20 ft. [feet] from
the entrance & in all 42 ft. [feet] long. It is carefully built on the sides
and covered with flags overlapping each other.
It slopes sharply downwards. At 32 ft. [feet] the
width is reduced to 2 ft. [feet] by a
rebate on the right side thereafter it gradually
widens and curving round to the right ter:
:minates in a chamber about 6 ft. [feet] across
and 4’.4” high. The walls throughout are
in perfect condition. Returning down
the burn I found on some green hillocks
a short distance below its junction with the
Allt ach-nan Tot and about 300yds. [yards] W. [West] of
that stream three hut circles of the usual
type. Feeling very weary I made my
way to the shepherd’s cottage at Dalness
where I begged a glass of milk which was
readily given me and thereafter trudging on
to Borgie Bridge I remounted my bicycle
and arrived in Tongue whither Jocelyn had
proceeded me with the luggage, about 8.0.
[Continued on page 65] |
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[Page] 65
[Continued from page 64]
29 May 1909 Tongue Hotel. Being very
tired I have employed myself all morning
writing up notes, signing letters to Town
Clerks of Royal Burghs &c. After luncheon
Jocelyn & I walked to a loch about a mile
off and fished for an hour or two but it
was stormy & cold & we only got one trout
each. This hotel is most comfortable and
we are very well boarded at 9/- £0.9.0] a day each.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 2.
30 May 1909. Another stormy day. Walked
down by Tongue Ferry in the morning
In the afternoon called on Colonel Morrison
the Duke’s factor at Tongue House. This
is a quaint old Scotch mansion built
towards the end of the 17th cent. [century]. It is a
long low building of one storey with windows
half set in the roof. Built into the wall of
the dining room are three decorated
pediments which probably surmounted
the windows at one time before the roof
was probably altered & the buttresses added.
One pediment over the mantelpiece
bears the Mackay arms (see Illus. [Illustrated] in Sutherland
& Reay Country &c. p. [page] 61) between the letters
D.M.R. A second bears the initials AMR
and the third the two sets of initials in
[Continued on page 66] |
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[Page] 66
[Continued from page 65]
a cypher between the date 1678 - which is
probably the date of the erection of the house.
On the skew-put on the E. [East] end of the N. [North] gable
of the more modern house are cut the dates
1678 and 1750. In the wood to the E. [East] of
the house on the top of knoll about 70 yds [yards] E. [East] of
the gardener’s house are the remains apparently
of a cairn the chamber of which is referred to
in Pro. S. of A.S. [Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland] [Volume] 7 p. [page] 277.
The earth house between Tongue Ho. [House] and
Kirkiboll has long since disappeared.
31st May 1909. Set out before 10.0 for Tongue
Ferry, & Melness - Jocelyn armed with a
trowel to search for prehistoric pottery in
the shell heap on the other side. The shell
heap lies close to the grave yard. There
is a great deposit of oyster and other shells.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 3.
The Broch below Melness Ho. [House] called Dun
Buidhe has entirely disappeared: the
stones which formed its wall lie in a
great heap at the foot of the field in which
it stood. Of the cattlefold on Ard Skinid
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 17
nothing of any importance remains (if ever
there was anything) and the tumuli above
Melness Ho. [House] are two cairns of about 14 ft. [feet]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 12
dia. [diameter] some 150 ft. [feet] off the road.
[Continued on page 67] |
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[Page] 67
[Continued from page 66]
The shell mounds yeilded not an atom of
pottery. After luncheon I bicycled to see
a hut circle noted on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] maps beyond
Loch Laoghil Lodge. I found the spot where it
was indicated half way between the lodge and
the burn to the S. [South] of it but of the circle there
is barely a trace. There are a number of ruined
walls of enclosures in the vicinity but nowhere
did I see any sign of the ancient grave yard.
Tongue. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10.
Returning I visited the cairn between Loch
Craggie & Loch Laoghil. It is situated on
the S. [South] side of the ridge separating the two
lochs at its extreme E. [East] end and overlooking
Loch Laoghil which lies about 50 ft. [feet] directly
below it. It is circular with a diameter of
about 50 ft. [feet]. The outline is definitely marked
with large boulders (the largest over 2 ft. [feet] high)
laid contiguously point upwards. The cairn
is for the most part overgrown with heather
but towards the centre a good many stones
have been pulled out without however
disclosing any structure which, if such exists,
is probably deeper. The height of the cairn
is about 6 ft. [feet]. Along the top of a bank which
projects to the S.E. [South East] are 3 large boulders
set in a row - the first 2 ft. [feet] from the cairn
[Continued on page 68] |
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[Continued from page 67]
the next 9 ft. [feet] and the next 16 ft. [feet] but it is very
doubtful if these are in situ. Work over – I put
up my rod and fished in Loch Craggie for
an hour but it is much too shallow to fish
from the bank. The road down from the
watershed to near Loch Laoghil Lodge is the
best I have found in Sutherland.
1st June 1909. Left Tongue at 7.0 a.m. to revisit
Strath-naver. It is a fearsome journey in a
motor laden with luggage as high as a corn
stack behind and down most appalling gradients.
I left the motor near Ach-na-bourin & walked
up the strath to Achargary – a place whose
name is different everytime it is spoken!
[Margin] Unnoted
Here on the S. [South] side of the Achargary burn about
20 yds [yards] from the top of the W. [West] bank of the Naver and
50 yds [yards] from the burn is a large circular cairn.
The top of it has been removed so as to expose
three slabs, apparently the end & sides of a
chamber, somewhat to the N. [North] of the centre
which does not appear to have been cleared out
The dia. [diameter] of the cairn from N. to S. [North to South] is about 77 ft. [feet]
from E. to W. [East to West] about 70 ft. [feet]. Length of chamber
from E. to W. [East to West] as far as exposed 7 ft. [feet] width about
5 ft. [feet]. One stone protrudes about 14” at the E [East]
end and the upper portion of one is visible on
[Continued on page 69] |
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[Page] 69
[Continued from page 68]
each side. That on the N. [North] side has been
slightly displaced. The present height of
the cairn is about 7 ft. [feet]. Between it and
and the road of the W. [West] lie about half a
dozen small cairns. At about 150 yds. [yards] and
200 yds. [yards] to the S. [South] respectively the direction of the
shepherd’s house have apparently been two
more similar cairns now almost entirely
removed. To the W. [West] of the road about 150 ft. [feet]
above it and some 100 yds [yards] S. [South] of the burn
are the considerable remains of another cairn
which has been pillaged to build a sheep stell.
It appears to have had a diameter of about
54 ft. [feet]. Its present height is about 4 ft. [feet] on the
E. [East] but on the W. [West] or upper side it is almost
level with the ground. Scattered about in its
vicinity are a few small cairns of 12’ to 14’
dia. [diameter]. About 100 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the burn &
70 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the road is a round cairn with
dia. [diameter] about 26 ft. [feet] and 4 ft. [feet] high. About
70 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of it are the ruins of another beside
a sheep stell. Near the centre of it has been
exposed a cist. It is intact
except for the stone at the S. [South] end which has been
removed and lies adjacent. The cist is full
of soil to within 14” of the covering slab which
[Continued on page 70] |
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[Page] 70
[Continued from page 69]
is 3’.8” long. 3’ wide and 7” thick. The diameter of
the cairn is about 45 ft [feet]: its height 5 ft. [feet].
About 30 ft [feet] N.W. [North West] are the remains of a similar
cairn partially removed. A large thin slab
protruding to the S. [South] of the remaining heap of
stones probably marks the site of a cist. Height
about 4 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter] of present cairn, which is probably
about half the original, 24 ft. [feet].
About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Achargary burn is a
group of small cairns extending from the
road side to 80 or 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of it.
[Margin] Unnoted
Across the Naver about 1/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of the bridge
over the Allt na Caisteal on the road to Skelpick
is another group of a score or more cairns.
[Margin] Are these the same as on p. [page] 58?
Rhinovie The N. [North] cairn shows a single poly:
:gonal chamber half filled with stones.
It appears also to have been horned but as
it has been so much pillaged probably for
the old dykes which pass close by its N. [North] end
the indications are not very definite. About 8’
to the E. [East] of the entrance to the passage, presumably
in the centre is a large stone lying mostly on
its edge exposed for a length of 5 ft. [feet] it is 2 ft. [feet]
across & lies with its pointed end N.W. [North West].
About 25 ft. [feet] N.E. [North East] the head of another large
stone protrudes. On the W. [West] side there is
[Continued on page 71] |
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[Page] 71
[Continued from page 70]
more appearance of a horn of stones but no
standing stones. The sides at the S [South] end of the so-
-called round cairn and those of the 2nd long
cairn are in alignment and I have no doubt
they are parts of the same construction.
The published sketch of the N. [North] end of
the S. [South] Skelpick cairn gives quite an
inaccurate impression of its features. (I
took two photos of it.) The standing stones
appear to have outlined the horns, not
to have stood isolated. At the W. [West] there
is a distinct horn in rear of the large stone
and on the E. [East] an outline of standing
stones exists on both sides of the horn,
those to the outside being smaller. To
the front there are 8 stones standing,
3 to W [West] of centre and 5 to E. [East]. Immediately
to the W. [West] of the entrance a large stone lies
with its point outwards. The position
of the standing stones at the S. [South] end with
relation to the cairn is more difficult of
discernment. On the E. [East] they appear simply
to follow the line of the outside of the cairn
but towards the W. [West] there are two projecting
slabs about 20 ft. [feet] in from the present termina:
:tion which suggest an incurving end.
[Continued on page 72] |
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[Continued from page 71]
[2 photographs inserted, transcribed on following page] |
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[Continued from page 71]
At intervals, along the sides of both cairns,
and especially on the W. [West] sides, standing
stones protrude. This was a most lovely
day and I greatly enjoyed my walk up
the Strath to Acharagary, over the river to
Skelpich & along through woods of freshly
leaved birch trees, towards Rhinovie. On
my way I made a slight detour to take
a photo of the broch, that towered up
from the haugh beside the Alt-an-duin.
From Rhinovie I walked back to Inver:
:naver bridge & back the other side of
the river to where the Tongue Road
leaves the Strath. Here the motor caught
me up & I again crossed by the perilous
route to Borgie Bridge & on till within
four miles of Tongue. At Loch Crocach
about 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of where the Skerry Road
joins the Tongue road I walked N. [North] into
the moor, following the direction of an
old keeper, who called on me the night
before last, for half a mile and on the
shoulder of a hill below some steep rocks,
I found a hut circle. It was of the usual
pear shape, measuring 30’ x 32’. Ent. [Entrance]
to S. [South]. It has been divided into chambers
[Continued on page 73] |
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[Page] 73
[Continued from page 72]
by rude boulder walls, similar to those of
the circle, about 2’.6” wide, running from
the W. [West] side towards the centre & then toward
the left side of the entrance. The space
enclosed being again divided up. The
entrance to the secondary Structure was
from the N. [North] or back. The thickness of
the outer walls 4’ to 5’. There are the
remains of another circle about 100 yds [yards] S. [South]
and about a dozen small cairns lie
in the vicinity. Thence I walked on
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 4.
to Rhitongue to see the broch but
found it unrecognisable, only consisting
of a confused mass of small stones
In the evening, after tea, Jocelyn & I
wandered down the road & crossing
a burn on stepping stones made our
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1.
way to Castle Varraich. It is indeed
a poor structure and answers to
Macgibbon & Ross’ description. The
walls are 4’.6” thick.
2nd June: Another fine morning though a trifle cold.
By appointment the Rev. [Reverend] Mr. Lundie, parish
Minister, and a sportsman of the best type
equally expert at saving a sinner
or landing a salmon, met us at the Hotel
[Continued on page 74] |
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[Continued from page 73 ]
at 10.0 and we set out in a trap for Loch
Hacoin. J. [Jocelyn] to fish & I to work. At the South
end of the Loch, which is a about 1/4 m. [mile] in length,
is a small islet within (?)50 yds [yards] of the shore
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7.
on which are the ruins of a small rectangular
building. The walls are built of thin, flat stones,
without mortar and are 6’ to 7’ thick and re:
:main upright to a height of 5’ to 6’. The building
is oblong and measures internally 19’ x 22’.
There are no indications of a door or windows
nor signs of floor or vaulting. It covers the
greater part of the islet, which is natural.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14.
Directly opposite it to the S.E. [South East] on the top of
the bank lies the large earth fast boulder
on the flat upper surface of which are a
number of cup and ring marks, placed
irregularly over it. The marks, surrounded
by a ring, number 11 and the total number
of undoubted markings 34. Neither Mr. Lundie
nor I could anywhere see the cup said to
have a double ring round it and it cer:
:tainly is not that shown on Mr. Horsburgh’s
sketch of which I had a tracing. The best
defined cup is 3” across x 1 1/4 “ deep and 7” across
the ring. Eight of the markings are well
defined the others less noticeable. The
[Continued on page 75] |
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[Continued from page 74]
figure in relief at the S [South] end much resembles
the same thing on the Torrisdale stone, ex:
:cept that it is not under-cut. It is
roughly rectangular and measures 12” x 6”.
Leaving the loch we walked over the moor,
Westward till we struck the road to Kinloch, here
on the W. [West] side of the road about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of
the bridge over the Kinloch river, on the
N. [North] edge of a gravel pit close to the road is a
[Margin] Unnoted.
large earthfast boulder 5 ft. [feet] in length as far
as exposed and 3’.10” broad showing on
its upper surface 18 cup marks of various
depths the most distinct towards the N. [North]
end of the stone being about 3” dia. [diameter] and 1” deep.
The whole length of the stone is not visible
but the markings do not seem to continue
to the portion covered.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6.
On a prominent rock which rises from
the ridge dividing the Kinloch river
from the Allt Ach an t-Srathain? at the upper end of
the Kyle of Tongue, stand the ruins of Dun
Mai, or Maigh. The situation is very strong.
On the W. [West] the rock rises precipitously for 50 ft. [feet]
or more and the E. [East] faces (? facing) the slope is abrupt.
On the N. and S. [North and South] the approach along the ridge is easier and
to defend these sides walls have been run
[Continued on page 76] |
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along the edge enclosing the more level
areas immediately adjoining the broch. The entrance has been from the E. [East]
through a passage about 16 ft. [feet] long, over which
three or four of the covering flags still remain
in situ. For the first 5 ft. [feet] the passage is 2’.3”
wide at which distance there is a rebate
in the wall and it expands to 3 ft. [feet]. The ruination
is too great to allow it to be seen, without exca:
:vation whether there is a guard chamber or
not. The height of the passage from the ruins
to the lintel on the inside is only 2 ft. [feet]. The
broch is much ruined but does not appear to
have been pillaged for stones. The interior
is peculiar in not being circular the W. [West]
side being considerably flattened and
it has the appearance of having been re:
:constructed. There is a chasm up the
cliff on the W. [West] the upper part of which
is built up and the outer wall of the
broch is some feet back from the edge.
It is possible that the original structure
fell at this point being too near the cliff
& the reconstructed building was placed
farther back. The Int. dia. [Interior diameter] from N. to S. [North to South] is
about 31 ft. [feet] and 27 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West]. The
highest part of the wall visible above the ruins
[Continued on page 77] |
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[Continued from page 76]
in the interior is 8 ft. [feet] high and the greatest height
to the exterior above several feet of debris is 7’.6” on
the S.E. [South East]. On the N.W. [North West] side a chamber about 8 ft. [feet] long
with rounded end and converging walls roofed with
flags, has been partially exposed in the wall. The slab be:
:neath which access is now obtained into it is about
3 ft. [feet] long and 15 ins. [inches] thick. Immediately to the E. [East]
of the foregoing is another chamber 5 ft. [feet] long and
3 ft. [feet] wide built up at the end and half filled with
stones. If the debris was cleared away a good
deal of this broch would be found to be standing
though not in good repair.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13.
The “tumulus” indicated as near Kinloch Ho. [House]
gave some difficulty to find. It lies about 1/2 m. [mile]
N.W. [North West] of Kinloch Lodge on the S. [South] slope of the hill
on which the broch stands. It is overgrown with
turf through which a number of large stones pro:
:trude. Five large slabs project upwards and
seem as if they might form part of the sides of a chamber
or chambers. From N. to S. [North to South] they are 17’ from each
other where facing. The diameter of the cairn
is about 30 ft. [feet] and its height, 2 to 3 ft. [feet].
A walk of about 1 mile S.E. [South East] brought us to
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9
Druim na - coup the traditionary (?) site of a
great battle between the Mackays and the
Sutherlands ending in the annihilation of the
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latter. On the S.E. [South East] slope above the flow which
lies between the moorland and the N.W. [North West] base of
Ben Laoghail is a group of small round cairns
of from 12 to 20 ft. [feet] or so diameter. They are not so
thickly placed as in some other situations but ex:
:tend for about 3/4 m. [mile]. One of them about halfway
along the ridge about 20 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] and only a
foot or two in height has had peat & stones removed
from a portion of the top and there has been exposed
a cist. The covering slab is 3 ft. [feet] broad and at least
3 ft. [feet] long, its exact length not being ascertainable. The
tops of the single slabs of each side are visible and
also of the slab at the E. [East] end which has apparently
slipped inwards. The breadth of the cist between
the sides is 2’.6”. The cairn is circular. The
longest axis of the cist is N.E. and S.W. [North East and South West].
Towards the S.W. [South West] end of the ridge on which
the cairns lie is a hut circle of the ordinary
pear shaped type with an internal measurement
across of 31 ft. [feet] the walls showing flattish slabs
on the inside, about 4 ft. [feet] across. In the entrance
which is to the S. [South] there has been erected a small
hut of comparatively modern type a few feet
square.
Lying at the base of the majestic peak,
which terminates Ben Laoghail to the N. [North] and
[Continued on page 79] |
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and set among the birchwoods, is the shepherd’s
house of Cuniside. Here, near the S. [South] end of the
field dyke on the W. [West] or outside, of it lies a cairn
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8.
known as “Dhiarmid’s grave". It approximates
in type to the S. shaped cairns and especially
resembles one noted near Loch Coile na Damph (p. [page] 14)
and another on the E. [East] bank of the Naver, between
Syre and Dal-harrild. This cairn, which appears
to be made of rather small stones. is overgrown
with grass. It is 59’ in length along its central
ridge. Its main axis lies N. and S. [North and South]. At the S. [South]
end for the first 11’ it has an inclination from
S.S.E. [South South East] and thereafter for the remaining 48 ft. [feet] as:
:sumes a N. & S. [North & South] direction. At the point where
the direction alters it is 11 ft. [feet] across. At about
19 ft. [feet] from the S. [South] end and 17 from the N. [North] it
gradually increases in bulk till at the
centre it is 14 ft. [feet] thick and 3’.3” high.
The old shepherd who had been many years
on the place told us that the earth house at
Ribigil was situated in a park about 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North]
of Ribigil farm house and was closed up many
years ago. A mile or so from Cuniside I
parted with Mr. Lundie who returned home while I
walked on to Loch Hacoin & fished with
Jocelyn for an hour till 5.30 when we
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drove home. It was a cold day for fishing and
all day she only caught 6.
3d. June 1909. J. [Jocelyn] left by the 7. o'clock motor for
Laing & I wrote up notes &c. till I got away in the
hired motor at 10.0. It was a dull day cold morning
we stopped at Dun Maigh near Kinloch to let me
obtain a measurement I had omitted then on we
went along the W. [West] side of the Kyle and over
the Mhoine with the clouds hanging low as
they were, the dreariest tract of desolate heath
I have seen. In a dull day peat stacks & peat hags
full of black stagnant water give a note of
desolation to a landscape. At Hope Ferry
where now there is a bridge I saw a keeper and
enquired about the ruins of a 'teampull' once
said to exist here, but he knew nothing of them.
Durness O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 4s
About 1 m. [mile] W. [West] of Hope Ferry on the end of a
rocky ridge that terminates near the N. [North] end
of Loch Creagach are the remains of a broch.
A ruined cottage stands partially on the founda:
:tions and explains its dilapidation. It is
much ruined and very little walling remains
The interior diameter has been 26 ft. [feet] and the
and the thickness of the walls 11 ft. [feet]. The Entrance to the
N. [North] along the ridge. The guard chamber, visible
through the roofing slabs, in part displaced, still
[Continued on page 81] |
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[Continued from page 80]
exists on the right of the entrance entering at
5 ft. [feet] in from the outside. It is 8 ft. [feet] long, & rounded
at the end, 2 ft. [feet] 6” to 3 ft. [feet] wide and from present
floor level to covering flags, 4’.3” high. About
24 ft. [feet] along the wall to the S.E. [South East] the top of
another chamber filled with debris is visible.
There are no details of the passage obtainable.
Between the N [North] end of Loch Creagach & the
road on the W [West] side and about 100 ft [feet] back from
the loch is a hut circle of usual character,
the length of the entrance passage into the
interior being about 7 ft. [feet]. The farm manager
at Eriboll farm tells me there are many circles
and tumuli about the hills there.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 3.
On a low projecting rock on the E. [East] bank of
Loch Eriboll at the S. [South] end of the Camus an Dun
about 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of Heilam Ferry are the remains
of a fort or dun to the W. [West] of a fisherman’s cottage.
It appears to have been an elliptical structure
in outline, with an entrance to sea-ward on
the point of the rock 5 ft. [feet] wide. The length
of the structure over all appears to have been
about 55 ft. [feet] its breadth 42’ about the centre
but the indefinite outline of the N. [North] wall does not(?)
allow this to be accurately obtained. The
thickness of the walls at the entrance is
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14 ft. [feet] and on the S. [South] side near the centre 10 ft. [feet].
On the S. [South] side of the entrance the outside wall is
8 ft. [feet] high and for 43 ft. [feet] round the circumference in that
direction it still remains several feet in height & beyond that it is overgrown with turf. It
is built of large stones without mortar. At 4 ft. [feet]
from the outside on the right of the passage a
squared edged intake shows that there has been
an entrance to a chamber or stair here. The
interior on the S. [South] side is full of debris and there
are suggestions of chambers in the thickness
of the wall but nothing definite. A circular
depression about 3’.6” across near the E. [East] end
may be the site of a well. The edge of the rocks
on the loch side is 22 ft. [feet] distant from the
entrance and the approach appears to have
been flanked with rubble mounds or walls on either side.
The remains of steps leading to the shore are
still visible.
Eribol. About 200 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the farm
steading in the middle of an arable field
is a flagstone covering the entrance to
the earth house.
About 1 m. [mile] S.W. [South West] of Eribol farm & 150 yds. [yards]
W. [West] of the road is a hut circle of ordinary type.
The entrance to the earth house on the
W. [West] side of Loch Eriboll on the top of a mound
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to the S. [South] of the burn about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of Portmaneon
pier is blocked by a large heavy stone which
prevented ingress. As on the last occasion
on which I visited Loch Eriboll it was cold,
wet, and dreary in the extreme. On reaching
Durness we turned down past the inn, now
merely bare blackened walls, for 5 or 6 miles
down the Lairg road to inspect three, so
called “Broughs”. The furthest off (No 8) is
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8
situated on ridge between the Allt a’ Choruinn
and the Kyle of Durness – about 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of the
road and 170 ft. [feet] above it. It is about 1/4 m. [mile] due
South of where the road crosses the burn. It
is not a broch but a large circular cairn
with a diameter of about 44 ft. [feet] and height of 7’.
It has been dilapidated to some extent in
the past to form a sheep fold which adjoins
it but the chamber or cist has not been
exposed.
On the N. [North] side of the Allt a’ Choruinn
about 400 yds. [yards] N. [North] of it and about 100 ft. [feet] above the
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7.
road are the remains of another cairn with
an external diameter of about 50 ft. [feet]. The
whole of the centre to the extent of 14 ft. [feet] diameter
has at some time been cleared out so as to
leave walls all round 3 to 4 ft. [feet] high, forming
[Continued on page 84] |
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a shelter. The bottom is covered with large
boulders and the sides show no signs of build:
:ing, the outside appearance being exactly that
of a cairn. All around the N. [North] half there is
a trench about 10 ft. [feet] wide and 2 ft. [feet] deep, but
this is not continued round the S. [South] half where
the ground slopes rapidly away.
1 mile nearer Durness on the W. [West] side of the
road is a shepherd’s cottage and the S. [South] end of
[Margin] Unnoted
which in a small enclosure are the remains
of a large cairn with a diameter of about
50 ft. [feet]. It has for the greater part been removed
and exposed is a cist. It is formed of a
covering slab 4’.10” long x 3’.4” wide and
8” thick supported on three upright slabs
and one fallen one at the S. [South] end. The longest
axis is N. and S. [North and South].
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6.
Another mile nearer Durness near where
the road from Keoldale joins the main road
on the W. [West] side are the remains of another
cairn now almost entirely overgrown with
turf. It seems to have been excavated. Its
diameter is about 45 ft. [feet].
It was 5. o’clock before I reached Balnakeil
where Mr. Elliot had kindly offered me ac:
:commodation. It is a picturesque old
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18th century house formed of a main block &
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 2
two projecting wings terminating in crow stepped
gables. The farm manager, Scott, and his
wife live in the basement & housekeep when
necessary. It looks out on a fine bay and has
the ruins of the old church close beside it.
The feeding is primitive but I quite enjoy it,
(cold mutton & porridge as a substitute for dinner)
and the manager & his wife most kind. Mr.
Elliot himself lives at Scibberscross.
4th June, Balnakiel. A dreary morning - woke early
suffering from rheumatism in my knee. My Journal
being in arrear I stayed in till 11.30 writing up notes.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6a.
It having cleared sufficiently I visited the Seanachaisteal
on the Aodann Mhor a headland about 1 1/4 m. [miles]
due N. [North] of Durness church. It is a rocky promon:
:tory whose precipitous sides rise for a hundred
feet or more above the
sea. The actual summit which is grass grown
and towards the landward end presenting a
comparatively even surface measuring about
54’ x 37’ whence the slope to the end is rugged
with detached masses of rock and crags, sheltering
about them small level areas where grass and
nettles luxuriate. The neck has been traversed
by a high stony rampart with a trench on either
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[Photograph inserted with text on reverse - transcribed on following page] - Balnakiel, Durness |
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Duncan MacMorroch here lies low, Was ill to his friend, waur to his foe, True to his master in weird and wo. 1623". |
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side about 40 ft. [feet] across. To the outside the rampart
is about 8 ft. [feet] above the bottom of the ditch where
highest on the W. [West] side & 6 ft. [feet] towards the interior and is 25 ft. [feet] wide at base.
The entrance has been through the middle of the
rampart. The remains down the slope to the
E [East] are less distinct. There is a circular de:
:pression on the inner side of the top of the
rampart to the N. [North] of the entrance and there
are similar depressions with signs of low
enclosing walls about the summit.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1.
The old church of Durness lies about 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of
the house of Balnakiel. In an arched recess
to the left of the doorway lies a slab, 6’.6” in
length by 2’.8” in breadth. A compartment at
the E. [East] end contains a representation of a hunter
drawing a bow at a stag which the artist through
the exigencies of space has placed in a vertical
position and beneath the letters D.M. MC
The slab also bears a representation of the skull
and crossbones and the inscription,
Donald Makmorchor hier lyis low
vas il to his friend var to his fo True to
his maister in veird and vo 1623.
Above is a tablet within a moulded border
bearing the initials D.Mc KNRM and
in four quarters 1st. a hand, 2. a ship, 3. a stags
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head and 4th. a fish and date 1619 (see Sutherland & Reay Country)
The church is as described except that the space
between the arches of the N. [North] window has been built
up not left solid. Length of main building 40’
width 16’. length of wing 25 ft. [feet].
In the middle of the church lies the font.
It is circular with four half round equidistant
projections 3 1/2 “ across and 1” deep carried from
top to base. Width over all 1’.10”. Width of Interior
1’.5 1/2 “. Depth 9”. The inscription over the doorway
is given correctly in MacGibbon & Ross. In the
afternoon I called on the Rev. [Reverend] Adam Gunn
& the ‘keeper. The latter informed me that
there are remains of a building high up on
a shoulder of Beinn Spionnaidh and also
on the N. [North] side of Meall Meadhonach. His
information is very vague & he is not certain
if they are round or rectangular, before visiting
them I must make further enquiries from
the shepherd. Work over I fished till
8.0 on Loch Croisaphuill. The trout were
feeding greedily on natural flies and swarming
on the top of the water but they would not
look at mine on any account & I only caught
one small one. At 8.30 I returned to a
frugal meal of Cold mutton & porridge!
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5th June 1909. As the mail gig was expected to
call for me at 6.40 I breakfasted about 6.15!
but tho' [though] all ready the post never arrived till
7.20 giving us an anxious interval as there seemed
no other means of escape from Durness, the hotel
being in ruins from fire & there being no traps
except perhaps the blacksmith's, for hire.
The gig bore one other passenger & with my
my luggage & H.M. Mail there was no room
for anyone else. It is a rough trap for a long
journey but the driver is a character and the
time passed pleasantly enough. Occasional
stops at shepherds' cottages & at Rhiconich,
followed by an odour of whisky showed that
the 'post' was a not unwelcomed visitor.
It was a glorious morning and as the road
wound past lakes fringed with beech-trees
and under the shadow of great mountains
bare of any vegetation near the summit and covered with
boulders standing high through the heather
on their flanks or perched on the skyline
of their lower ridges I greatly enjoyed it. At
Laxford Bridge about 11.0 I left the gig &
found a motor from Scourie awaiting me.
At Badnabay about 300 yds. N by W [North by West] of
the cottage and within 50 ft. [feet] of the road to Scourie
[Continued on page 89] |
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on lowlying marshy ground are a number
[Margin] Unnoted.
of standing stones which have formed the
sides of a chamber in a circular cairn.
The cairn has been entirely removed but
its outline is distinctly visible and it has
had a diameter of about 40 ft. [feet]. The chamber
has been bipartite, the inner portion being
10’.4” long from N. to S. [North to South] by 8’.9” wide & polygonal.
It is divided from the outer portion by two slabs
set on edge 1’.6” thick. 3’ and 2’.4” long and
about 2 ft. [feet] 7” apart the stone on the E [East] not
exactly opposite the other. Of the outer division
only 3 stones remain, two at entrance and
one on the W. [West] side. It has been about 4’ long and
about 5’.10” wide. The entrance has been from
the S. [South] where the two outer stones of the passage
apparently remain in situ 2 ft. [feet] apart and
9’ distant from the chamber. Of the inner
portion of the chamber 7 stones remain in
position, the highest of which above ground level is 3’.8” high,
2’.9” across at greatest breadth and 13” thick.
The soil in which they are set is peaty.
It is a beautiful drive to Scourie past a
number of lochs & I reached there about 12.0.
Luncheon over as soon as the tide
permitted which was not till after 3.30
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in a sailing boat with two mariners I made a
pleasant voyage to Handa island a mile
or two away to inspect an old graveyard. The
graveyard lies above a sandy bay on the S. [South] side
of the island and though there are a number of
stones protruding from the turf none have any
visible marks of interest on them. Towards the
upper part of the graveyard a space about 24’ x 12’
whereon are no tombstones and slightly depressed may
be the site of a chapel. The N. [North] side of Handa
is bounded by huge cliffs 3 or 400 ft. [feet] high where
sea birds in countess thousands nest or lay
their eggs on the flat ledges. It was a wonderful
sight to see the colonies of puffins & razorbills
packed as closely as they could wedge and on any
unusual disturbance to watch endless heads
protrude from recesses like human heads
from the windows in an old town when the
soldiers pass. This inn at Scourie is comfortable
& very clean. Four English fishers are here, one a
lady.
[Margin - Sketch inserted here]
6th June 1909. Scourie Inn. Walked three miles
to Badcall to Dr. [Doctor] Henderson’s church. A
small congregation, 15 souls in all, and that
on a day when there was the excitement of
instrumental music for the first time.
[Continued on page 91] |
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I lunched with Dr. [Doctor] and Mrs. Henderson and got
directions to visit his supposed site of a broch
opposite Duartbeg. It was a glorious day and
a more beautiful bay than that of Badcall
studded with green islands, I never saw. The
mountains all around were so distinctive, each
stands out from its fellow in such a remarkable
way, while over miles of smiling ocean I could
see mistily outlined the mountains of the Lewis.
I searched up & down rocks and headlands for
the broch but found nothing resembling one
only the foundation of an oval structure which
I feel sure was that of a crofter’s hut. It lies on the
hill whose projecting arm forms the N. [North] side of
the entrance to Loch na Coile, about the 100’ contour
line. Internally it measures 33’ x 12 1/2’ with walls
4’ thick and entrance to N.E. [North East]. There are three
or four small cairns about in the neighbourhood
but I am inclined to think they are merely stones
gathered off a croft. On my homeward way
about 1 m. [mile] due N. [North] of the Manse of Eddrachillis
at an elevation of about 300 ft. [feet] and about 3 - 400 yds [yards]
N. [North] of the public road on the top of a rock against an
outcropping portion of which it is built, is
a cairn. The roof of the chamber has evidently
fallen in and the interior has been pulled
[Continued on page 92] |
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about a little. The exact measurements of the
chamber are not obtainable. Two large upright stones,
the highest of which is about 3 ft. [feet] high, stand at
the N. [North] end 3’.4” apart with their faces at divergent
angles. 2’ distant S. [South] from the W. [West] stone is another, facing
[Margin] Note I was told by [--] Morrison keeper here that there is or was a large cairn about 1 m. [mile] from Rhiconich, there are also said to be remains of a building on an island on Loch Carn-nan-head but as no reliable person knew its whereabouts or its main features I considered as it was a loch regularly visited, it could not justify a day’s delay.
N.E. [North East] and opposite it, 6’.6” away a fourth stone stands
facing almost at rt. [right] angles to the direction of the
face of the stone opposite. The length of the chamber
from the centre of the space between the 2 stones
at the N. [North] to that between the other two stones at
the S. [South] is 7’. The hollow to the S. [South] suggests a greater
length to the chamber but there are no slabs observ:
:able. The diameter of the cairn is about 40 ft. [feet]
and the two upright stones at the N. [North] are 20’
distant from the outside. At the N. [North] the cairn is
still about 6 ft’ [feet] high. At the S. [South] it is set against
a rock. It is called (see Dr. [Doctor] Henderson’s letter)
7th June 1909 Left Scourie by motor ac:
:companied by Mr McIver, Factor & Farmer
for the Dun at Kylesku. This ruin stands
towards the end of a rocky promontory or
islet, connected with the shore by a causeway
about 70 ft. [feet] long, 10’ wide & 2 high formed of
boulders. It is only separated from the main:
:land at high tides. The rock projects into
[Continued on page 93] |
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Loch Carnbawn near its S. [South] end for about
100 yds. [yards]. The structure on the end of it is circular
with an internal dia. [diameter] of 28’.6” or thereabout
and a thickness of wall of 12’ on the E [East] and on
the N.E. [North East] where it has been deemed desirable to
cover an approach between two rocks it widens
to 14’ to 15’. The height of the walls to the outside
is obscured by debris but inside where highest
on S. [South] it is 7’ high & except towards N. [North] several
feet in height all round. The entrance has
been to the S.E. [South East] and is 3 ft. [feet] wide at the only point
observable between the two lowest stones on either
side, the outside, otherwise it is in ruins. There
are no signs of chambers in the thickness of
the walls nor any traces of galleries. These
features of the broch structure are absent.
The edge of the rock on which the dun stands
on the landward side of it about 20 ft. [feet] distant
appears to have been strengthened with a wall.
Halfway between the “broch” and Kylestrome
Lodge on a slight rocky eminence stands a
cairn apparently untouched. Its dia. [diameter] from
E. to W. [East to West] is 35’ and from N. to S. [North to South] 25’. It is built
against a rock to the S. [South]. Height about 5 ft. [feet].
It has been covered with heather now burned
off.
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When I crossed the ferry to Kylesku inn the clouds
were covering the hill tops. It was not welcome news
to learn that the only conveyance had gone off
to Inchnadamph & would not be available for
Drumbeg for hours, but as I don’t allow myself to
be stopped I eat my lunch, pulled on my “Burbury”
& set off on my 10 mile tramp in the rain. About
four miles by road from Kylesku on the S. [South] side
of Loch Cairnbawn, just beyond the W. [West] end of the
wood that stretches along the shore from Torgawn
and about 20 ft. [feet] above high water mark, is a small
cairn with one large stone about 2 ft. [feet] long, 18”
thick and 17” above the ground, set in the middle
of it. The whole diameter is about 7 ft. [feet] and it
more resembles a ring of stones round a centre one than a cairn.
This is called “Oscar’s grave” and is said to
mark the burial place of a son of the king of
Sweden. Some 3/4 m. [mile] further on the road crosses
the Gleann Ardbhair and leaving the highway
I plunged down among wet heather & birch
trees to find my way to the Dun at the head of
Loch Ardvair. It was a rough wet walk &
under pleasanter conditions most enjoyable
as the birch woods were delicious along the
side of the turbulent little stream and the
wildness of the scene perfect. About 3/4 mile
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above the loch I passed through a fertile
little haugh fringed in with birch woods, there
are the remains of several little circular huts,
not unlike those I found up the Skelpich burn.
Have they been sheilings? One towards the E [East] end
of the haugh had an Int. [Interior] dia. [diameter] of about 5 ft. [feet]. Another
was somewhat larger. They also are set on low
hillocks. About 80 yds. [yards] further on is another
an oval of 18’ x 6’. It rained and while the heather
was soaking underfoot, the birch branches as I pushed
through, showered their accumulated rain drops on
me from above. I was glad to escape from the glen &
crossing a rough park, to see the Dun before me
at the edge of Loch Ardbhair. It stands on
an isolated rock about [--] ft. [feet] from the mainland
to which it is connected by a rough “roadway”
of boulders now almost severed in the middle. It is
only approachable at low tide (when by good luck
I reached it) and at high water there is little space
between the edge of the rock & the base of the
building. It is circular with an internal diameter
of 24 ft. [feet] and walls 10’.6” thick near the base. The
entrance passage is to the S. [South] and is only 2 ft. [feet] wide
in the interior, (the exterior not measurable & remains to height of 3’.6” on left). Of the
outside walls only one or two of the lowest courses of the building
remain visible in places and the rest is concealed by
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ruins. The interior is very free of debris and the wall
remains to a height of 7’.4”. There are no signs
of chambers in the wall nor of galleries, the building
is poorer than that of a broch, the stones not so
carefully selected and laid, and the numerous
interstices are packed with poor small angular frag:
:ments. At first glance it lacks the character of a
broch. I got back across the road just in time
before the tide turned for looking backward
a short time after I had left it was under water
for many feet of its length.
Across the bay nearly opposite the dun and
just to the S.E. [South East] of the sheep fanks is situated
an ancient graveyard. It is so covered with
small stones as to suggest at first that it is the
site of a “clachan” but closer inspection shows
that the graves have each been outlined and
covered with smallish stones probably to prevent
their desecration by wild animals. Is this not
a survival of the fashion of cairn burial?
No symbols or letters were observable on any of
the stones. The graveyard has been at one time
enclosed & roughly measures 78’ x 51’.
It was now 6 o’clock & I had to find my way
to the road, uncharted, and reach Drumbeg for
the night, 5 or 6 miles off. I crawled under a
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under the leaves of an old birch tree overhanging
a burn & seated on its bent stem eat the remains
of my lunch which I had brought from Scourie
and being refreshed soon found a track that
showed the wear of human feet & following it
round the hill side was delighted to find the
road much sooner than I expected. On through
the rain I trudged reaching Drumbeg about 7.30.
expecting to find numerous fishermen and
a table d’hôte dinner. A small temperance
hotel with a farm attached and no visitors
was what I found. The good landlady,
Mrs. Mackenzie, while getting dinner ready
produced a pair of dry knickers and stockings
as my luggage still tarried at Kylesku. The
fishing here does not seem to be any better
than that of Scourie, Kylesku, or other
places but the hotel is modest, comfortable
and inaccessible.
8th June 1909 Drumbeg. Wrote my journal as
soon as I had had breakfast & had the
dog-cart round at 10.30 to start. It was
a day like yesterday, misty & wet. We drove
first to Oldany & with the permission of
Mr. Simpson the shooting tenant, my driver
young Mackenzie, procured the boat and
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rowed me over to Oldany island to examine
an ancient burial ground where he said one
grave was marked with a peculiar stone like a
basin with letters cut on it. This at once suggested
to me the font, so arrived at the island I struck
away inland to where my map showed the
graveyard to be. My map was wrong and the
mistake added much to my labours. Through
the centre of the island there runs a vale or
“flow”. and on the W. [West] side of that, rather nearer
the N. [North] end than the centre, and on the top of a
low spur of the hill is the graveyard. At the
back of it against the hill are the ruins of a
rude structure outlined with great slabs of
rock set on end, (the largest 3’ high - 3’ broad and
1’ thick.) It is roughly rectangular & lies almost
N. and S. [North and South] measuring internally about 12’ x 10’ with
an entrance to the E. [East]. Attached to it is a smaller
building about 13’ long x 8’ wide with a circular
building probably an oven in the N.E. [North East] corner
about 3 ft. [feet] high & 5 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter]. The graves here
have all been outlined with flat stones &
some more placed on top of them. As the
building lies N. & S. [North & South] it has probably been only a
croft, but why in the graveyard. I was nearly
two hours away from the boat but failed
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to find the “font”. Young Mackenzie has,
however, received a shilling, full directions
for measurement & my address & has promised
to supply me with details. It is reported locally
that a yachting party once carried off the
stone but when they reached Stoer head it
had left the yacht & flown home to Oldany.
A drive of several miles brought us to Clash:
:nessie where on the W. [West] side of the bay are the
remains of a dun. They lie on a prominent
flat topped rock whose green surface makes
it more conspicuous which rears its head
abruptly about 30 ft. [feet] up. On either side it
is cut off by deep chasms up which the
waves dash, and it is precipitous sea-wards.
The summit has been covered by an
irregular elliptical structure following to
some extent the outline of the rock, meas:
:uring over all about 36’ x 26’. Only the
foundations remain. The entrance has
been to the landward end. Telegraphing
for a trap to meet me from Lochinver
at 5.00 at Stoer Smithy & being refreshed
by a tumbler of milk at the Post office,
I mounted again & drove miles on to
Culkein. Here at the N. [North] end of the bay
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of Culkein has been a fortress of great
stength. The promontory is divided into
two portions by a chasm bridged over by a
neck of rock some 3 - 4ft. [feet] long, and about 5 ft. [feet]
deep and not more than 18” broad, a dangerous
looking passage. The outward portion to
which this bridge leads rises abruptly from the
shelving rocks below to a height of about 50 ft. [feet].
Its surface is about 50’ long x 20’ broad. At the
west or landward end for a distance of about
20 ft. [feet] there are considerable remains of building
which above the cliff to the N. [North] is still visible for
3 or 4 ft. [feet] thereafter there are only signs of a wall
running along the N. [North] side. About 40 ft. [feet] back
from the bridge the neck of the promontory
has been traversed by a wall of great strength
about 7’ thick faced outwardly with huge
blocks of stone - one on left of entrance being
3’ high 2’.10” across base & 2’ thick. The Entrance
has been at the S [South] end of the wall through a
passage 8 ft. [feet] long and apparently 3’.6”
wide. The W. [West] side is completely ruined.
The area enclosed within the wall is
roughly oval measuring about 40 ft. [feet] x 37 ft [feet].
Back to Stoer Smithy. Here while awaiting
the trap for Loch Inver I met Mr. MacIvor
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the schoolmaster with whom I had a long
talk and who took me to his house & gave me
a cup of tea. Bless him! My lunch had been
only 2 eggs, some lunch biscuits, & a little bread
& butter! He showed me a fine tanged &
barbed flint arrow head found on the moor
near which had been quite recently used by
the crofters who found it as a charm against
diseases of their cattle. They dipped it in water
and sprinkled the water over the cow. He has
promised to send it to the museum.
Feeling so much refreshed I could not
resist examining the ruins of the broch
at Clach Toll as I passed & saving a long
journey back tomorrow.
To return to Oldany island. Towards the
S. [South] end of the flow on the W. [West] side may be observed
the ruins or outline of boulders of small oval
structures 5’ or 6’ x 4’. On the E. [East] end of
the knoll on which is the cemetery are the
remains of a structure represented by two courses
of boulders with Int. [Interior] measurements of 11’ x 7’.
There are two entrances viz to N.W. & S.E. [North West & South East].
Another near by is circular with dia. [diameter] of 6’.)
It stands at the edge of the flat ledges of
rock that fringe the shore at the S. [South] end of
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[Margin] ?
the bay of Stoer. Its position is not a very
strong one to the landward side and its
outworks on that account are somewhat
exceptional. About 100 yds. [yards] distant are
the remains of a massive wall much ruined
crossing the uncultivated land to the E. [East]. The
land to the S. [South] being all cultivated the outworks
in that direction have been demolished.
At 40 ft. [feet] distant from the broch is another
wall built of great stones 2’ to 3’ ft. [feet] high
& very massive which leads from
either side of the entrance and evidently
swung round to enflank the building, on
the S. [South] the details are still evident. At the
turning it enclosed a bastion or mound of
stone and earth, about (?) 8’ across lined with
another wall on the inside of it. The thickness
of the outer wall is 6’ ft [feet] and the distance
between the stone uprights of the gateway
which is opposite the entrance is 6’.
The broch itself is in fairly good preservation
except on the seaward side where it has
been for a short distance almost demolished.
The interior is very full of debris and the
greatest height of wall showing above it
is only about 3 ft. [feet]. On the outside the wall
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is in places 6’ to 7’ high and the top of the
interior wall is 3’ to 4’ above it. The thickness
of the wall at its highest level is 12 ft. [feet] and
as the ruins block the passage in the interior
it was not possible to obtain that measurement
at base. The interior diameter is 32’.
The entrance is to the (?) E. [East]. It is covered by
a large triangular stone, as at Dornadilla,
4’.6” long, 3’.10” high and 12” thick. At the
outside it is 3’ wide & about 3’.6” high.
At 4’ from the exterior are door jambs on
either side beyond which the passage sud:
:denly widens to 3’.10” and gradually expands
inwards to a width of 4’.2” opposite the entrances
to the chambers which are reached 3’ in
rear of the door jambs. There are chambers
on either side facing each other the entrances
to which are about 2’.5” wide &, at present,
only 2’ high. Except for a short portion
in the centre the roof of the passage is
entirely covered with flags. The chamber
on the right of the entrance extends inwards
following the curve of the wall for 12 ft. [feet] and
at the highest point of its overlapping roof
is 6’ from present floor level. - Crawling
in over the rough stones on hands & knees
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grasping a lighted candle, a note book &
prostrate with a pencil between my teeth
was none too pleasant a task – nor were
the great stones hanging down through the
gap in the passage roof that a
touch might dislodge pleasant objects
to gaze at long! The chamber on the
left I did not enter. It is small and
low but a hole in the back suggests a
connection with something beyond.
Directly opposite the entrance the top of
the stairway is visible and the stair itself
probably exists for 12’ or 14’ down but is
covered with debris to within 3 ft. [feet] of the roof.
It apparently enters from the wall in the interior to the
left of the entrance. The Masonry of the
broch is good. It is built of sandstone which
has a good horizontal cleavage in bed.
There are no remains whatever of the
Dun at the N. [North] end of the bay.
There appeared to be two or three small tumuli
in the cultivated ground to the S.E. [South East] but I
omitted to look where the map indicates
them. I must ask Mr. McIvor the school:
:master to do this. It was 7 o’clock
before I started off, very tired, for Lochinver
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and was pleased to reach a comfortable
hotel and also it refreshed my eyes to see
again garden flowers, peonies & tulips
from my bedroom window. What a change
from the comfortable fishing inns to a large
hotel with a waiter and takers’ scones to
breakfast!
9th June. I was too mentally tired to
rest last night and had a bad night
so was thankful to employ myself till
12.0 writing up my notes. It is still wet
and cold. I set out at 12.0 to reach the
site of the chapel near Feadain. It is
said to lie about 25 ft. [feet] back from the
loch near an old rowan tree but a heap
of stones structureless and featureless is
all that remains. The grave yard lies
on a level patch, kept uncultivated, near
the house & in front of it. At 3.0 I
left by motor for Inch-na-damph over
an awful road. At one point we got
bogged, the result of a road rolling.
Inch-na-damph. 10 June. Fourteen fishers
here some of them very nice. It is bitterly
cold & they are getting little sport. I did
not sleep well as I do not seem to have
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quite got over my hard day on Tuesday. After
my arrival yesterday I called on Mr. Mackay,
farmer, at Kirkton of Assynt, who had sent
me information. He took me to see the burial
vault of the Macleods of Assynt in the grave:
:yard but though an old building it contains
nothing of interest except, perhaps McLeods!
In the haugh along side the graveyard is
[Margin] There is a slight depression all round inside the mound probably caused by the removal of the soil for its formation.
an oval enclosure surrounded by a bank
about 2 ft. [feet] - 3’ high and 25 ft. [feet] broad at base;
the interior of which measures 134’ x 86’. There
appear to be two entrances to the N. and E. [North and East]
respectively. It is said to have been the place
where the chief of the McLeods slept surrounded
by his followers in time of danger but it is
on an absolutely undefended position!
The castle of Ardvreck is exactly as described
The W. [West] wall has entirely disappeared and the
rest of the building is much ruined. The
S. [South] side of Calda House which is locally
known as the White Ho, [House] has gone entirely.
The outside measurements are (See notes)
On the right bank of the Fraligal Burn about
100 ft [feet] above and [--] from Inchnadamph Hotel
on the summit of a slight rocky ridge is a
cairn. It is considerably dilapidated and
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its original outline can only be conjectured but
it appears to have been circular with a diameter
of about 50 ft. [feet]. It is still 6 to 7 feet in height.
Several large flat stones are exposed lying
unevenly about the top but there is no sign
of the chamber or cist having been opened.
As the cairns on Ben Garve turned out to
be only small surveyors’ cairns and evidently
of no account I did not visit them so had
leisure to fish a little in the Traligill burn
where I caught a few small trout but my
zest for fishing has suffered from the pursuit
of ancient monuments. The rock here is
limestone and the burn has cut its way
through deep gorges and comes over some
fine falls. The Dryas Octopetala is in full
flower over the rocks; I have seen it at Bettyhill,
Durness and here & there by the roadside.
The globe flowers are coming out in the
meadows and “the wild marsh marygolds
flame like fire” as I have never seen them
elsewhere in Scotland. In visiting the
ruins of Calda this morning I discovered
a brown owl asleep at the level of my head
& could not risist taking his photo at
close quarters, the last tenant of the old house.
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11 June 1909. Left Inchnadamph on foot,
some muddle having been made about the motor,
but secured a trap returning after I had gone a
Stronechrubie
mile or two. I turned aside at Stronechrubie
to see what was described to me as a grave
marked by a standing stone but though I
searched all the hillocks between the road and
the Loanan where the grave was said to be I
could find no stone raised by the hand of man.
Loch Awe
I drove on to Loch Awe. Here immediately W. [West] of
the South end of the loch at an elevation of
about 200 ft. [feet] above it and just above an old
enclosure studded with heaps of stones which
do not appear to be of a sepulchral character,
is a cairn. It is circular or rather slightly oval
with a diameter of 63 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South] and 70 ft. [feet]
from E. to W. [East to West] but as the ground slopes away
sharply to the E. [East] the extra length of the diameter
may be due to the fall of the stones. On the
top, 15 ft. [feet] from the N. [North] edge is a depression
running S. [South] for about 20 ft. [feet] and 10’ across at
greatest width; and there is another hollow
towards the E. [East]. Neither of these show signs
of recent excavation. There are some large
slabs lying about on the top of the cairn
but there is no sign of wither chamber or cist
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exposed. The cairn is still 7’ to 8’ high.
Lyne.
On the top of a knoll just to the S. [South] of the
road bridge over the Ledbeg River and about 50 ft. [feet]
E [East] of the road are the remains of a large circular
cairn much dilapidated and in great part re:
:moved. Three of the large upright blocks which
have formed the sides and end of the chamber
remain in situ and a smaller stone protrudes
between 2 of the larger ones at the N.W. [North West]. The
two largest stones measure 4’ across the base are
17” thick and 3’ to 4’ high. The dia. [diameter] of the
cairn has been about 36’. The end stone
of the chamber is about 23’ from the S. [South] edge.
The side stones which are slightly divergent are 6 ft. [feet]
apart and the centre point between their
outer edges 6 ft. [feet] back from the stone in the
centre of the N. [North] end.
Cam Loch.
About 1/2 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] of the most S. [South] Easterly
arm of Càm Loch and on the low lying
ground between the high road and the
Ledmore river is a large circular cairn
with a diameter of 60 ft. [feet] from N. to S. [North to South] and
54 ft. [feet] from E. to W. [East to West]. At 21 ft. [feet] from the N. [North] edge
the top of a large slab standing upright facing
N. and S. [North and South] is visible 4 ft. [feet] across but there is
no chamber or cist exposed. The cairn
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at highest is about 6 ft. [feet] high. It has been much
pulled about on the top.
The motor with Donald, whom I found an interested
assistant, picked me up near Lyne Bridge.
Loch Borrolan. No. 1
About 1/4 m. [mile] from the N.W. [North West] end of Loch Borrolan
between the road and the loch at the landward
end of a point which projects into the latter is
a circular cairn totally demolished on the E. [East]
side. It has had a diameter of about 60 ft. [feet].
At 19’ in from the E. [East] side are two large slabs
facing each other 4’.10” apart and 7’ further W. [West]
are two low partition stones of a chamber
with their ends facing each other 2’.6” apart
7’ E. [East] of the partition slabs two slabs just visible
above the ground probably mark the E. [East] end
of the chamber. The greatest height of the
remaining portion of the cairn is 7 ft. [feet].
Loch Borrolan No II [2].
About 1/2 m. [mile] N.W. [North West] of Aultnacealgach Hotel
on the slope of the hill about 100 ft. [feet] above the
Loch is a cairn which has been very completely
excavated. It has a diameter of 44’. 16 ft. [feet]
in from the edge on W.N.W. [West North West] and E.S.E. [East South East] along which
the major axis lies, is the edge of chamber,
about 10 ft. [feet] long 6’.3” broad at centre. It is
polygonal formed by six large slabs & the
interspaces filled with building except between
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the two large stones at the E.S.E. [East South East] where the space
is filled up with round boulders and earth, and
in the NW [North West] corner where there is a recess 4’.6” in
length, 2’.6” deep roofed with overlapping stones.
Its outer edge is marked off by a double line of
flat stones partially superimposed about
6” or 8” in breadth. There are no signs of paving
The greatest height from floor of chamber to
top of cairn is 6’.6”. The greatest height of
the cairn from the exterior is 6’ to 7’.
L. [Loch] Borrolan No. III [3].
About 400 yds. [yards] N.N.W. [North North West] of Altnacealgach Hotel
on the side of the hill and about (?) 100 ft. [feet] above the
loch is a circular cairn with a diameter of
about 50 ft. [feet] and height about 5’ to 6’. There is an
irregular depression on the top and some large
stones have been displaced but no chamber
or cist has been revealed. It has been
broken into for a short distance on the E. [East] side.
Cnoc a’ Chaoruinn (This is in Ross-shire)
About 1/2 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] from the point where the
road from Ben More Lodge joins the road to
Lairg on the S.E. [South East] slope of the Cnoc a’ Chaoruinn about
50 ft. [feet] above the road & 100 yds. [yards] back from it are
the standing stones of a megalithic chamber.
The cairn has been entirely removed but
has had a diameter of about 50 ft. [feet]. The
main axis of the chamber has been N. and S. [North and South].
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It has been divided into two by low partition stones
which appear to have been about 2 ft. [feet] apart.
The N. [North] portion has 5 stones of its wall standing and
is 10’ in length to the partition and 11’ broad. Of the
outer portion there are three stones standing and
there is a gap on the W [West] where one has probably
been. On the S. [South] side of the partition stones lies
a great block which has apparently formed
a lintel 11’ long, 4’ broad and 15” thick. The
highest stone of the chamber is 5 ft. feet] high above the
ground 4’.6” across and 1’ thick. The N. [North] end is
16’ in from the mark of the edge of the cairn.
A considerable amount of debris covers the floor.
It was a long rough motor ride on down Strath
Oykell to Lairg and very cold. I was very
pleased to reach The Sutherland Arms about
5 o’clock and join Jocelyn and Mary again.
12th June. Engaged till 1 o’clock writing up
my notes and with official correspondence.
In the afternoon rowed Jocelyn & Mary up
the loch for nearly three miles. A lovely day.
13th June. A glorious warm day. Attended to
letters in the morning and in the afternoon
made ourselves comfortable in the shade of
the birch wood among the primroses below
Lairg Lodge. The midges bit us badly.
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Lairg Par. [Parish] The Ord.
14 June 1909 Another splendid day. Walked
with J. [Jocelyn] and Mrs Noel Hill to the Ord or Cnoc na Uird
a hill about a mile to the S.W. [South West] of Lairg across
the Shin. I started with the cairn situated
about 80 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the summit. It is an
immense mass of stones, sub oval in outline
with its longest axis N. and S. [North and South]. From the point
at which the stones rise abruptly its dia. [diameter] from
N. to S. [North to South] is about 77’ and from E to W. [East to West] about 91’.
Like the cairn at Fiscary it appears to
stand upon a base which extends about 20’
out beyond the edge of the pile. The outline
of this is very distinct over the greater part of
the periphery. It is approximately circular except
at the S. [South] where it appears to run to a point
coming from the W. and E.’ward [West and Eastward] of the point there
seems to a concavity in the outline but it is
too indefinite to make an assertion about. For
a space of 13 ft. [feet] across and 12 ft. [feet] in towards
the cairn there is an absence of stones of
the base or outline. The edge of the base is
well defined with large stones of about 1 ft. [foot] elevation.
It is not absolutely level. On the W. [West] side in
the first 15 ft. [feet] it rises 24” thereafter it rises 12 ft. [feet] in 33 ft. [feet]
on the E. [East] side 2’.6” for 16 ft. [feet] & thereafter 11’.9” in 28 ft. [feet].
The diameter over all is N. to S. [North to South] 128’. E. to W. [East to West] 120’
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The height is about 14 ft. [feet]. It has been pulled
about a good deal and excavation has been
made at various points but neither cist nor
chamber are exposed. Along the top from
E to W. [East to West] a depression runs inward for 39 ft. [feet] dis:
:closing some large boulders. It occupies a
conspicuous position.
On the very summit of the hill at an elevation
of some 619’ over sea level are the standing stones
of the chamber of a demolished cairn. The main axis lies
about E. and W. [East and West]. The chamber appears
to have been bipartite (?), with the most im:
:portant enclosure at the W. [West]. This portion now
represented by 4 stones 3 of which are upright,
1 on the E. [East], 1 on the W. [West], 1 on the N. [North] and a
large stone about 5’ long, 2’.8” broad and 12” thick
lying on its back towards the N.W. [North West]. Its dimen:
:sions have been about 8 ft. [feet] by 6 ft. [feet] and it
has been of the usual polygonal form.
At the [--] end the two partition stones are
low, somewhat pointed, and 2 ft. [feet] apart. They have given access
to a second chamber 5 ft. [feet] long and probably
of about the same breadth. One stone only
remains on the S.W. [South West] side about 20” long &
protruding about 8” from the ground and at
the [--] end are two other partition stones
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1’.9” apart with their broad axis at rt. [right] angles to
the line of the passage. Two feet further
are another pair of stones similarly set 2 ft. [feet] apart
which probably formed part of the passage.
The highest stone in the large chamber is about
2 ft. [feet] high, 1’.7” across and 1’ thick. The diameter
of the cairn from N.E. to S.W. [North East to South West] has been about
46 ft. [feet]. Along the line of the chamber it is
not obtainable. The distance from the line
of the circumference to the back stone of the
large chamber is about 26 ft. [feet]. About 100 ft. [feet]
S.S.W. [South South West] of the summit is a well built circular cairn
of about 28’ dia [diameter] and 3’.6” high. The circumference
all round is carefully defined with large
contiguous stones set point upwards and
with flat faces outwards. There is a
slight depression about 10” deep 7’ long
x 4’.6” broad running N. & S. [North & South] on the top.
About 200 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] of the summit is a
large hut circle of the usual pear shaped
form but of larger dimensions, measuring
across from S.E. to N.W. [South East to North West] about 38’ and
from N.E. to S.W. [North East to South West] 52’. There has been an entrance
to the S.W. [South West] about 4’.6” across with a chamber
on its right bounding it for 12 ft. [feet] and on the
opposite side the wall extends outward for a
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similar distance.
About 50 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] of the last is a cairn of
about 27 ft. [feet] diameter which seems to have been
excavated. It has been badly pillaged and is over:
:grown with turf.
About 30 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the hut circle is a cairn
which has been considerably dilapidated but
no signs of a chamber or cist are revealed.
It has a diameter of about 34 ft. [feet] and is about
3 ft. [feet] high.
About 15 ft. [feet] to the E. [East] of it is another, circular,
[Margin] Cairn ?
with a diameter of 22 ft. [feet], its outline carefully
marked with large boulders.
About 750 ft. [feet] S.E. [South East] of the summit just inside
the wall of an old enclosure is a large
cairn covered with grass and the remains
of burnt heather. It is some 50 ft. [feet] in diameter
and 6 to 7 ft. [feet] high.
Within 20’ of the S. [South] of it is a small cairn
about 15’ from N. to S. [North to South] by 10’ E. to W. [East to West] & 2 ft. [feet] high
partially opened by rabbits.
About 60 ft. [feet] S. [South] another about 18 ft. [feet] x 10 ft. [feet] and
2 ft. [feet] high.
About 1/4 m. [mile] S.S.E. [South South East] from the summit
on a slight ridge is a circular enclosure
with an internal diameter of 43 ft. [feet] surrounded
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by a wall of turf and boulders, now only about
18” high, 7ft. [feet] across. Beyond the wall is a
berm 19’ wide and an enclosing ditch 21 ft. [feet] across
and about 6 ft. [feet] deep. The ditch is continuous
except towards the S.S.W. [South South West] on which side there
has been the entrance which has passed
between two walls, now traceable only from
the outer edge of the berm diverging
from 9 ft. [feet] apart to 13 ft. [feet] at their outer extremities.
The thickness not ascertainable. The wall of
the inner enclosure is of the same character
as those of the ordinary hut circles.
[Margin] An old turf dyke has crossed over the construction but is comparatively modern.
About 50 yds. [yards] N. [North] are the remains of a hut
circle of ordinary type, about 30’ Int. dia. [Interior diameter].
About 40. ft. [feet] S.E. [South East] of it a small round cairn of
some 16 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter].
About 100 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the fort is a large group
of cairns varying from 10 to 22 ft. [feet] in
diameter and from 18” to 3’ high, the
majority some 16’ to 18’ dia. [diameter]. There are from
30 to 40 cairns in the group. Among
them appear several hut circles. One towards
the N.W. [North West] is faintly discernible and measures
about 26’ int. dia. [interior diameter] and at the S.E. [South East] end is
a well preserved specimen 37 ft. [feet] int. dia. [interior diameter]
6 ft. [feet] across walls. Ent. [Entrance] to S.E. [South East]. The inner
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[Continued from page 117]
[3 sketches with text inserted, transcribed on following page]
[1] Hut Circle (simple type). The Ord. Lairg.
[2] Hut circle on The Ord. Lairg.
[3] Hut circle on moor to E. [East] of Naver No. 25. [width] 20’. |
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line of the wall is well marked in places
with pointed stones set on end. The wall
at either side of the entrance expands to 14 ft. [feet] in
thickness so as to contain on either side a
small semicircular chamber 6' x 5’ across
at the interior end facing the passage.
About 30 yds [yards] N.E. [North East] of the last is another
circle with a diameter across of 35’ and to
the entrance towards the S.E. [South East] of 38’.
About 30’ to N. [North] of it lies a cairn with its
longest axis E. and W. [East and West] measuring about
28’ x 14’ and 2 ft. [feet] in height.
Another similar in same alignment
about 20’ W. [West] of the last measures 28’ x 16’
It is about 20 ft. [feet] N.W. [North West] of the last hut circle.
About 20’ N.W. [North West] of the last is another
measuring 21’x 16’. These seem
without question sepulchral cairns and
should be compared with others of the
same form. e.g. at Fiscary near Bettyhill
& the cairn I assisted to open at Gullane.
It is probable they contain several interments
as the latter did.
These are part of a group in the vicinity
of the hut circles 30 to 40 in number,
mostly circular measuring some 16’ to 20’ in
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diameter.
To the S. [South] of the road to Auchness about 150 yds. [yards]
W. [West] of where it leaves the main road S. [South] from Lairg
are 2 hut circles, the Westmost one is small
about 23 ft. [feet] across, the other overgrown with
heath measures about 28 ft. [feet] Int. dia. [Interior diameter]
Between the last circle and the main road
to Bonar Bridge is a small group of cairns
most of which have been demolished. One
close to the road about 100 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the crossing
is from 1 1/2’ to 2’ high and measures 20’ x 13’.
About 350 yds. [yards] S [South] of the cross roads on the
W. [West] side of the road are the remains of a
hut circle of the usual form but smaller
in size measuring internally 18’ x 24’. Ent. [Entrance]
to S.E. [South East] walls much broken down.
In its vicinity is a group of cairns about
12 in number mostly circular with dia. [diameter] of
about 14 ft. [feet]. Towards the S.E. [South East] end of the
group is an unusually shaped one resembling
two round cairns joined by a
neck. The whole length of the cairn is
24’. The expansions at either end 10’ long
the neck about 4’. The S.E. [South East] end 14’ across
the waist 8’ and the N.W. [North West] 13’. There is a
marked concavity on the W. [West] in the centre not so
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[Photograph inserted with text on reverse, transcribed on following page] - Stone circle on Struin near Lairg |
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marked on the E. [East] and a lowering of the ridge
at the waist. Another cairn about 20 ft. [feet] N.W. [North West]
partially demolished measures about 22’ x 14’
and has its longest axis E. & W. [East & West].
Another small group lies between the road and
the river about 150 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the junction of the
Invercasley or Auchness Road. One at the S.W. [South West]
of the group is oval measuring 17’ x 8’.6”
with its longest axis E. & W. [East & West]. One a little
to the N. [North] of it is almost circular with a dia [diameter]
of 18’. Another to the S [South] measures 15’ x 9’.6” with
its longest axis S.W. and N.E. [South West and North East].
On a low knoll between two small burns
about 20 ft. [feet] back from the right bank of the
Shin exactly opposite the N. [North] end of the island
1 m. [mile] S. [South] of Lairg Church are the remains of
a stone circle. Four stones remain in
situ - two towards the N. [North] and the correspond:
:ing stones on the E. and W. [East and West]. The stones on
the S. [South] have gone the side of the ridge on that
side having been eaten into by the burn.
The stones are from 1’.3” to 2’.3” high
above ground & stand with their broad
faces in the line of the circumference.
The dia. [diameter] appears to have been from 13’ to 14’
The N. [North] point appears to be between the two
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stones at the N. [North] end. (Plan &c. in note book)
About 30 yds [yards] down the river from the stone
circle is a well defined hut circle on the
top of the river bank of the usual form
but small measuring only 14’ x 20’.
About 50 yds [yards] back from the river directly
behind the hut circle are the ruins of
three separate constructions. They seem
to be as regards two of them, demolished cairns
which have been put to a secondary use,
but the remains are very indefinite. The
third to the N.W. [North West] has exactly the appearance
of a truncated cairn 33 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] & about
2’ ft. [feet] high. but neither cist nor chamber
is exposed. The ruin to the S. [South] has, I believe,
been a similar cairn 33 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter].
This had been a very hot day and by the
time I got back at 5.30 I was very tired,
and had a restless night in consequence.
I must not do so much but it is difficult
to stop when just a little more will complete
the examination of a section.
15th June. Returned to the Ord to complete my
investigation. I never saw a hill so completely
covered with remains. About 250 yds. [yards]
S.E. [South East] of the summit on the W. [West] flank of the
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hill are a number of curious constructions
clustered together. At the extreme S.E. [South East] end is
a small semicircular enclosure 18’ across with
a wall stretching across the open end for a
distance of 11’ from the W. [West]. About 30 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West]
of it is an enclosure circular or square with
rounded angles about 35 ft. [feet] in dia. [diameter] surrounded
by the remains of a turf and boulder wall 7’
thick, the entrance to the S.E. [South East] about 5’ across.
Adjoining it to the E [East] and facing N.W. [North West] is
a large crescentic mound 41’ between its
extremities, with a concavity of 12 ft. [feet]. 21 ft. [feet] wide
at centre, 3’ ft [feet] high to the outside and 4’.7” in
front. About 21 ft. [feet] from the centre of the cres:
:cent is a low oval cairn 19’ from N.W. to S.E. [North West to South East]
x 25’ from S.W. to N.E. [South West to North East]. It is quite flat on the
top and looks as if it might have been a
base for some structure sheltered by the mound
to the S. [South] of it. It is about 2 ft. [feet] high. About 18’
N.W. [North West] of the last cairn is a heap of boulders 16’
in circ. [circumference] & 2 ft. [feet] high which does not appear to be
sepulchral. At first glance this construction
appeared to be a perfectly formed [sketch inserted here] due
to a path having obliterated a part of the
wall of the large enclosure. It has probably
been a cattle pend, but I have noted it particularly
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for the crescentic mound.
About 100yds [yards] S.W. [South West] of the above is a hut
circle of the usual type measuring 35’ x 37’.
About 50’ S.W. [South West] of the hut circle is a mound
or cairn which appears to be formed of earth and
boulders with a diameter of about 20 ft. [feet] & height
about 2 ft. [feet]. I am doubtful if it is sepulchral
& yet it does not seem quite natural. There
are several of them about the hill.
One third of a mile or thereby S. [South] of the summit
on a slight knoll is a cup-shaped hollow
11’ across and 1’.5” deep in centre and immedi:
:ately adjoining it to the S.W. [South West] with its longest
axis S.W. and N.E. [South West and North East] is a rectangular construction
formed of flat sharp edged boulders set
on end round three sides - the end towards the
hollow being enclosed. The internal dimensions
are 6’.8” by 3’.10”. There is no appearance of
a wall and a considerable number of small
stones lie about in the interior which is raised
about 8 inches. The highest stone is 1’.6” above
ground and 1’.7” across x 9” thick.
Some 30’ ft [feet] S. [South] is a hut circle of ordinary
type, with entrance to S.E. [South East] between 2 large
stones 5 ft [feet] across. Dimensions. 46’ x 36’.
About 14’ S.E. [South East] of the hollow is a small
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cairn of about 6’ dia. [diameter] and some 20 ft. [feet] to the
N. [North] of the circle is a cairn of earth & boulders lying
N. & S. [North & South]. 12’ .6’x 10’ and 1’ - 1 1/2’ high, and there are
one or two others about.
50 yds [yards] or so W. [West] of the great cairn near the summit
is a circular one 28’ dia. [diameter] & about 3’.6” high. A
slight excavation has been made on the top
but neither cist nor chamber exposed.
About 100 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the great cairn is a
hut circle of usual type with entrance to S.E. [South East].
All along the hill face from the summit
downwards for 100 ft. [feet] are numerous cairns
mostly circular with diameter varying from
about 12’ to 23’. The greatest number about 20’ and about
3’ high. These cairns are larger and more
important than those usually found on the hill
sides.
About 50 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the last hut circle is another
with an interior dia. [diameter] of about 18’ x 20’ and entrance
apparently to the N. [North].
Some 250 yds. [yards] N.N.W. [North North West] of the great cairn is a well-
-defined hut circle overgrown with heather
quite circular with dia. [diameter] of 30’. Entrance to S.E. [South East].
Several cairns lie around it one about
20’ to the W. [West] lying N. and S. [North and South] measures about
17’ x 12’ & is about 3’ high. Towards its S. [South] end
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one large stone stands up on the top 8” or 10” above
the ridge.
About 100 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the large cairn is a
circle with an internal diameter of about
6 ft. [feet] surrounded by a stony bank, measuring
over all about 20 ft. [feet] The centre is covered
with turf and does not seem stony. Running
from it on the N.W. [North West] are the ruins of an ancient
wall which continue for a distance of 96’ and
terminate in a low cairn like heap about
10’ long and 9’ across. 54 ft. [feet] beyond in
the same direction over a space where there
is no trace whatever of walling it commences
again with a curve open to the E. [East] 21’ across
and thereafter is connected with
a large crescentic heap of stone 47’ across
open & lower towards the W. [West] with interior
measuring 18’ x 12’. the mound all round
being about 8’ thick & 14’ at the N. & S. [North & South].
[Margin] 2 sketches inserted. Note. On a later occasion I observed other walls of a more masonic character on the E. [East] side of the hill. From one of them utilising a cairn placed in the line of its direction by building up to it on either side I conclude they are of later date.
From the N.W. [North West] the wall proceeds down the
hill and about 100 yds [yards] it appears to turn
E. and W. [East and West] and there are indefinite indications
of similar enclosures connected with it. It
is very difficult to say what this has been.
The wall is not carried to the top of the
hill nor has it the strength or character
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of a fortification.
About 200 yds [yards] N.N.W. [North North West] of the great cairn is
another crescentic construction measuring about
30’ overall with an interior of about 12’ dia. [diameter].
About 100 yds. [yards] N by W [North by West] of the great cairn,
to the N. [North] of the pathway are the remains of a
large walled enclosure - with internal dia. [diameter]
about 43’ x 45’ and entrance to SE. [South East] and
adjoining it to the NE. [North East] is a large oval
cairn 33 ft [feet] from NE. to S.W. [North East to South West] & 23’ from NW to SE. [North West to South East]
& about 3’ high.
Some 100 yds. [yards] due N. [North] of the great cairn and
on the upper side of the pathway is a small
circle with an interior diameter of 16’ flanked
on N and S [North and South] by banks about 2 ft. [feet] high and
12 ft. [feet] across, and base of walls indicated on E. [East] and
W. [West]. This is a construction similar to those
noted in Strathnaver. Near the entrance to the
E [East] the wall is 4’ thick.
[Margin - sketch with text inserted]. This construction seems related to the adjacent hut circle, wh. [which] has its entrance directly towards it.
About 20’ E. [East] is a hut circle of ordinary
type measuring internally 24’ x 29’ with walls
about 5’ thick. Ent. [Entrance] to the N.W. [North West]. About 18’ E [East] is a cairn with
diameter of about 22’.
At about 100 yds. [yards] N.E. [North East] of the summit is a
crescentic mound of earth and boulders
measuring about 42’ along the crest about
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12’ across the centre and 29’ between the points
facing N.E. [North East] with the back to the hill.
About 150 yds. [yards] N. by E. [North by East] of summit within 50
ft. [feet] of the path is a cup shaped hollow of 6’
int. dia. [interior diameter] and 1 1/2’ deep. open to the N. [North].
About 200 yds. [yards] due N. [North] of the summit is
a circular enclosure of about 27’ int. dia. [interior diameter]
with a wide opening to the E. [East] as if for a fold. In its vicinity
lie numerous cairns of the general character
of those on the hill.
Some 40 ft. [feet] N. [North] is another hut circle of the
usual character with the entrance to the S.E. [South East]
Internal dia. [diameter] about 24’ x 27’ and about
1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the great cairn is another of the
usual type but whose walls are not very distinct.
The cairn on the N. & N.W. [North & North West] slope of the
hill must number about 100. In general
character they are larger than the usual
run of those found in groups but they are
associated with the hut circles & other
remains of settled habitation over a con:
:siderable period. Some of the remains
are no doubt connected with cattle folding
& pastoral life. The hut circles are
rather smaller than the usual type.
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Creich
16 June 1909. On the W. [West] side of Glen Cassley about
7 1/2 miles above the junction of the Cassley with the
Oykel – on the slope of the hill about 80’ above
the river are the ruins of a broch. The ground
falls sharply away from it on the N and N.E. [North and North East] sides
and towards the river. It is much dilapidated
on the S. [South] on which side large sheep folds have
been erected from its material. The Interior is
very full of debris the wall being visible for no more
than 5 ft. [feet] above it at any point. The highest portion
is towards the N.W. [North West] where the wall is 11 ft. [feet] high
to the exterior and rises some 5 - 6 ft. [feet] higher on the
inside opposite. The thickness of the wall at this
height (11 ft [feet]) is about 11’.6”. On the S.S.W. [South South West] at about
5 ft. [feet] from the ground level it is 14’.8” but on this
side the position is weaker. The interior diameter
is about 31 ft. [feet]. The entrance has been towards
the E. [East] through a passage about 18’.6” long. The
first 5’.6” are blocked with ruins, for 3 ft. [feet] the
side walls are exposed and for the last 10’
the passage is complete roofed with flags
throughout. 8’.6” from the exterior on the
right hand side is the entrance to the guard
chamber - only 18” wide and now 20” high.
It has an entrance passage gradually widening
4 ft. [feet] in length - beyond which the chamber curves
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round to the left and is covered with a roof formed
of overlapping stones. The roof appeared to be
intact. As the entrance was somewhat unsafe
looking I did not squeeze myself in!
Four feet beyond the guard chamber inward or outward? two door:
:jambs project across the passage leaving a
space between them of 20”. They are slabs 4” thick
& do not act as supports there being no lintel above:
:them. In the walls behind them 26” from the
roof are the holes about 6” for the bar. That
on the left goes 14” into the wall, that on the
right 30” and appears to have passed into the
guard chamber beyond as light was visible at
the back of it. Outside the jambs the passage
is 3 ft. [feet] wide and the walls diverge till at
5’.6” from exterior where last visible they are
4’.8” apart. Behind the jambs it is 5 ft. [feet]
wide and now about 4’ high.
On the S. [South] side of the broch a portion of a
gallery or chamber is exposed still crossed by
one huge stone 7’ long, 2’ broad & 10” thick.
The chamber has been 3’.6” wide. To the N. [North] of it
is an opening into the interior 3’ across.
A portion of the same gallery is visible on the W. [West].
About 7’ S. [South] of the entrance the opposite ends
of an oval chamber on the ground level about 10’ in length
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with an entrance from the interior 3’ across
are visible. Some of the stones used in the
structure are very large, one on the S. [South] whose upper
surface is 5 ft. [feet] above the ground level is 5’ long
3 ft. [feet] across and 1’ thick. To get across
the Cassley I had to take off my shoes & stockings
and wade, rather a painful performance as
the gravel was very sharp. I recrossed by the
same method & walked down to the shepherd’s
house at Badintagart where I had left my
bicycle, killing an adder on the road by the
way. At Badintagart I could find no trace
of the priest’s house which the name implies.
Bicycling back to Auchness I made enquiry
from the farm manager’s wife, or housekeeper
for the brochs & got a tumbler of milk to refresh
me. In the haugh between the road & the
Cassely on a knoll about 50 yds [yards] back from
the latter are indications of the existence of
a broch. Only a stone or two of the outer wall
is visible. The site is overgrown with grass.
About 300 yds. [yards] N. [North] at the upper end of the haugh
is the site of another of which a very little
more is apparent. It has been of great size
and has had a diameter over all of from
78’ to 80’. The walls appear to have been 18’ thick.
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The lower course of the wall is quite visible on
the N. [North] and SE. [South East] and a slight elevation marks
the foundation of the wall.
The road from Auchness to Lairg is
very bad for bicycling on and I did not get
back till 6.0.
17 June. Wrote up notes till 12.0 then set out
on foot towards Torrobol. On the left hand
or E [East] side of the road about 1 m. [mile] S. [South] of Lairg
on a tract of moorland about 100 ft. [feet] above the
river is a group of 7 or 8 cairns and the
remains of a small hut circle with entrance
towards the S. [South]. Dia. [Diameter] about 19' x 21'.
On the N. [North] side of the road to Rhianbreck
About 200 yds [yards] beyond its junction with the Lairg
road is a hut circle of the usual type with
entrance to the S.E. [South East]. Dia. [Diameter] about 24' x 27'.
At Rhianbreck about 1/2 m. [mile] from the junction
with the Lairg road about 50 ft. [feet] from the road
in a field in front of a cottage is a circular
cairn, overgrown with grass & whins, 32' in
dia. [diameter] and from 3'- 4' high. A cattle shed
has been built partly with it on the SE. [South East]. The
exposure of the constructions seems to show that
it was formed of boulders and turf.
About 1/2 m. [mile] further E [East] along the road on
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the S. [South] side on a stretch of moorland close to the road
is a group of 7 or 8 cairns of from 12' to 18'
circumference and 2' to 3' high.
About 100 yds [yards] to the S. [South] and stretching along the
hillside above the crofts are about a score
more of the usual type.
A few hundred yards S.E. [South East] of the upper end
of the crofts at Torroboll and on the W. [West] side of
an old road are several hut circles & cairns.
2 circles marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] are of the usual
type overgrown with grass & heather – entrance to S.E. [South East].
A small group of cairns of the usual type lies
about them. About 80 yds [yards] N. [North] and NW. [North West] respect:
:ively of the N'.most [Northernmost] of the two are the indistinct
remains of two others with 5 or 6 cairns beside
them. About 100 yds [yards] E [East] across the road,
from the marked circles is another with more
cairns near it. The cairns are all
overgrown with heather & seem to be made
of smaller stones, & where observable in section
at gravel pits &c, of turf. The cairns
associated with this circle & the 2 directly
across the road are 18 to 20 in number.
I observe that not infrequently one or
two large stones, which stand up about 1 ft. [foot]
are placed on the tops of these cairns as
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if perhaps marking the head & feet of the body.
On the piece of waste ground S. [South] of the burn
that runs through Torroboll & N.W. [North West] of the last
enclosed crofts is a hut circle of usual type
measuring internally 30' x 34' with walls 5 ft. [feet] thick
and entrance to the S.W. [South West]. The wall is about
2 ft. [feet] high and is evidently built of boulders and
turf. Around this circle are about a score
of cairns of the usual small type. On the
top of one at its N. [North] end a single large boulder
sticks up about a foot above the heather.
The weather has been stormy and the evening
is wet. Jocelyn with Mary & nurse have
gone to Dornoch to try to get rooms for next
month. Harry Butler who joined us last
night has been fishing on Loch Beannach.
I have had my hair cut by the coach-builder
with an ancient & unclean looking skirt
draped round my neck & the barbers hands
redolent of paint & varnish!
18th June 1909. A dull morning. Set off on foot
along the Golspie road. About 3 m. [miles] E [East] of
Lairg on the N. [North] side of the road situated on a
slight level on the slope of the hill above which
the rocks rise for some 50 ft. [feet]; is a hut circle of the
usual type with entrance to the S.E. [South East]. It measures
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internally 26' x 29'. At a later period the interior
space has been diminished by a wall which curves across
from either side cutting off the back of the enclosure so as to form a circle of 21' dia. [diameter].
In the centre of this area is a low bed of stones
about 4' across which has formed a hearth. I
cut out a turf with my knife and found wood charcoal (Fig) [Figure]
About 60 ft. [feet] further E [East] and at a slightly lower
level & nearer the road is another circle measuring
about 28' x 34' int. [interior] with entrance to the S.E. [South East]. The
wall is about 4' thick except at either side of the
entrance passage where it expands to 7'. The
passage measures from 3'.6" to 4' across.
An old road passes along the hillside between
these two circles.
A circular cairn with a diameter of 22',
low, and rather dilapidated lies about 40' N.W. [North West]
of the last circle and about 12' lower on the slope.
On a slight elevation about 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the
last and about 20' above the road are the
remains of another. The bank on the N. [North] has
fallen away taking a considerable part of
the circle with it and disclosing a section
of the interior which shows a layer of char:
:coal about 2" deep, from 5" to 6" below the
present surface which lies on a level floor
of earth. There are no bones or foreign matter
among the charcoal which lies near where
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the inside of the wall must have been. In the N.E. [North East]
corner of the circle is a cup shaped hollow
about 7' across & 18" deep.
Rogart Par. [Parish] Broch No. 19.
At the upper end of Strath Fleet about
3 m. [miles] E.S.E. [East South East] of Lairg, on the S. [South] side of the strath
and about 300 ft. [feet] above the road, at the
upper side of an enclosure at one time under
cultivation are situated the remains of a broch.
It is an absolute ruin. The line of the outer
wall is visible in one or two places, the inner no:
:where. On the E. [East] side the end of a chamber
has been exposed and what may be the
entrance passage is visible through a small
aperture in front of a roofing slab. The diameter
of the structure is unobtainable. On the N. [North]
side the existence of a chamber is also noticeable.
On the W. [West] in the direction in which the ground
slopes the ruin is about 12' high but consid:
:erably less on the E. [East]. I spent a long
time moving stones in an endeavour to
find the entrance & other features but to no
purpose.
Lairg
Retracing my steps along the road to
Balindialish about 1 1/4 m [miles] from Lairg I climbed
a steep slope on which the yellow rock
roses were flowering & reached the ridge
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[Continued from page 135]
running W. [West] above the crofts on which various
groups of cairns are situated. The first group
is above Balindialish and consists of 3 or 4 of
the ordinary low grass covered type. About 1/4 m. [mile]
W. [West] above Balcharn is another group of low mounds
of from 12 - 18 ft. [feet] diameter. I have examined
many of these small “tumuli” where the interior
construction has been exposed on the banks of burns,
gravel pits &c. and I find them to be composed
of stones and turf or earth thus differing in
construction from the larger cairns formed
entirely of boulders. The former are almost invari:
:ably overgrown with grass or heather .
A short distance to the N. [North] of Balcharn is a
group of about half a dozen all grass grown.
Of the group at Culmaily to the E. [East] of it only one
remains half broken down on the edge of
the road to the E. [East] of the road past the crofts.
About 100 yds. [yards] S. [South] on the moorland the outline
of a hut circle is observable.
The group about 400 yds. [yards] E. [East] of Culbuie consists
of about a dozen, from 12' to 18' dia. [diameter] and
about 3' high.
About 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of Savalbeg at Dulaich is
a group of about 14. One or two are rather
higher and more pointed than usual being
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[Continued from page 136]
about 3'.6" high.
A short distance to the N.E. [North East] of Loch Dulaich
and on either side of the road or track to
Loch Tigh na Creageach is a large group of cairns
and hut circles. The first hut circle is
on a slight rise to the N. [North] of the road about
300 yds. [yards] past the loch. It is of the usual type
but its outline is not now very definite. A short
distance beyond it to the N.E. [North East] is a group of
6 or 8 cairns of the usual type. About 100 yds. [yards]
further on and about 40 yds [yards] N. [North] of the road is another
hut circle of usual form, with Entrance to S.E. [South East]
and measuring 21' x 27'. Crossing the road
the ground rises steeply and along the
top of the ridge and on its N. [North] slope are a
great number of cairns (about a score) overgrown
with grass and heather measuring from 12' to
18' in diameter. Scattered among them
are five hut circles. The most northerly of
the group is situated close beside the road
and is somewhat larger than usual measur:
:ing 34' x 45' internally. The Entrance which is
3' wide is as usual to the S.E. [South East]. Abutting on
it at the West side is another smaller circle
with dia. [diameter] 28' x 31' & entrance to S.E. [South East]. They are
connected by a common bank or mound 12' across.
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[Continued from page 137]
About 50 yds. [yards] S.W. [South West] of it is another with internal dia. [diameter] of
24' x 31'. It appears to have been at one time much
larger but to have been filled up on the W. [West] side
making the bank in that direction 14' across.
Another on the top of the ridge about 100 yds [yards] S. [South] of the
double circle is another in good preservation. It
measures about 21' x 24', & has the entrance to the S. [South]
E. [East]. The interior appears to have been hollowed
out to some extent and is about 2 ft. [feet] below the
ground level on the upper side. The other
circle of the group about 50 yds. [yards] W. [West] is much
effaced. Across the burn, the Feith Mhòr which
flows to the N. [North] of these remains on a slight
elevation is a similar group consisting of a hut
circle and cairns. The circle is about 190 yds [yards]
N.N.W. [North North West] of the bridge across the burn. It measures
about 19' x 23'. To the S. [South] and E. [East] of it lie about a dozen
cairns of the usual type. In Loch
Dola are a couple of small islands on which
the black headed gulls are breeding. I was sur:
:prised to see a small flock of starlings frequenting
the trees on one of these islands. I did not think
they would have flocked together so early in the
year. Returning I took the road down over
Lairg Moor. In a small piece of waste land
about 300 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of [Sydney] Ho. [House] is a group
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of 7 or 8 cairns of the ordinary type. One however
in the S.E. [South East] corner of the enclosure measures
23' x 21'. Another cairn is about 300 yds [yards]
S. [South] of Sidney House.
19 June 1909. I took a seat in the Invershin
motor as far as Colaboll about 4 m [miles] N.N.W. [North North West] of
Lairg. Here the land has been much brought
under cultivation and the cairns & hut circles
marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map as existing about
3/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the post office have entirely disappeared
except for one hut circle at the N. [North] side of the
small plantation about 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] and near its E. [East] end.
It is of the usual type with entrance to SE [South East] and
measures about 25' x 33'. Finding my
way by farm road to Shiness I struck N. [North] on
to the moorland by a fallen monument to
the memory of Murray of Guirness who had
been the means of reclaiming the surrounding
land from the moors and excellent pas:
:ture land much of it looked. About
300 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of the monument is a hut circle
measuring 33' x 36' with entrance to S.E. [South East].
A foot or two to the E. [East] of its centre is a small
semicircle of stones about 2' across which has
been a hearth. I cut out a turf and found
a small quantity of charcoal. About 10 ft. [feet]
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[Continued from page 139]
in from the entrance on the left side is a
hollow about 2' across and 14" deep. One large
stone seems to be in situ on one side and another
has fallen in. About 100 yds. [yards] W. [West] is another
smaller than usual and circular with a diameter
of about 18'. It seems to have had a secondary
stone building inside it probably in connection
with a small house which once stood near.
There are remains of a number of cairns
in the vicinity overgrown with turf.
About 1 m. [mile] N.W. [North West] of the monument are two
hut circles of usual type with some half a
dozen cairns around them. All along the
ridge the cairns occur at intervals and one
or two hut circles are visible among them but
the banks seem to have been solely of turf &
they have in great measure disappeared. The
cairns where indicated at the end of the ridge are
very numerous but show no features of peculiar
interest. The broch of Shiness
is situated on a knoll at the foot of a field
about 400 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of Shiness house at the N. [North] end
of the Loch a’ Bhainbh. It is now a featureless
cairn of stones some 7' to 8' high. The remains
of two chambers are visible on the S.E. [South East] side.
In the bank of the burn to the S. [South] a quantity of
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iron slag is visible. It is not immixed with
charcoal as that on the Skelpick burn was.
As I expected to meet Jocelyn & her father
at the end of the Ard na’ Sinnis I crossed
to the promontory and walked along it. As I
lay resting during my walk six stags startled
by some boys raced past close by me.
Towards the end of the Ard about 400 yds [yards]
from its SE. [South East] point is a hut circle & several
cairns of the usual type. On reaching
the end of the Ard about 3 o’clock I saw the
boat in the far distance well on its way back
to Lairg so after resting I retraced my steps
and crossing to the mainland by a bridge
walked back to Lairg. A mile out I met
a motor sent to pick me up. I find I
walked about 16 miles.
Sunday. 20. June 1909. A showery day. Went to
church in forenoon & was glad of a rest
in the afternoon.
M [Monday] 21st. June. Went to Brora with Jocelyn to
get rooms for August, secured them in
the Grand Hotel - a new temperance hotel. They
seem nice & are moderate in cost. Letter
from Sir Herbert saying not to hesitate about
a private sitting room.
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22 June.
A very wet day but as it cleared a little
I set out at 10.30. to visit the “tumuli” &c. about
2 m [miles] S. [South] of Lairg Station. About 200 yds [yards] short of the 1st milestone beyond
the Station on the E [East] side of the road to Bonar
Bridge and immediately above it in the birch
wood are a group of about 1 doz. [dozen] cairns
and the ruins of a hut circle all of the
usual type. About 300 yds. [yards] further on
and just past the mile stone is another
group of about 14 cairns with a well preserved
hut circle about 30 yds [yards] from the road. It
measures 38' across but as the bank at the
entrance in the interior has been thickened
so as to make the passage 13' in length the
diameter from the N.W. [North West] to S.E. [South East] is only 32'.
The Entrance faces the S.E. [South East] as usual. The
banks are thicker & seem more peaty than
usual. Abutting on the outer wall at the
S. [South] is a smaller enclosure of about 16' x 13'
Int. dia. [Interior diameter] with ent. [entrance] to S.E. [South East] The entrance
has been much broken down. (Fig) [Figure] About 100
yds [yards] E. [East] is another circle of usual type. On
either side of the entrance which is in the usual
position the outer edge of the bank has been
outlined with large stones for 10 or 12 ft. [feet] Three
cairns lie very close around - one within 12'
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of the entrance. Some 500 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the
road on the hillside is another considerable
group of cairns and adjacent to it a
large pear shaped enclosure measuring
about 46' x 70' with a wide entrance to the S. [South]
about 20' across. The E. [East] wall is continued
round flanking the entrance & following the
S. [South] side of a hollow down hill for about 100
yds [yards]. Some 60' N. [North] another wall runs from the side of the encl. [enclosure] W. [West] along
the other side of the hollow and at about
100 yds. [yards] turns sharply to the S. [South] and passes
the end of the other wall so as to leave an
entrance way between them about 10 ft. [feet] wide.
To the N. [North] of the large enclosure is a small
circle with int. dia. [interior diameter] of about 10 ft [feet] & walls
of stone turf. This appears to have been
a rather elaborate cattle enclosure. There
are many of these old tumbled down walls
in the neighbourhood of hut circles &c. whose
course is almost impossible to follow and
the object of whose erection equally difficult
to ascertain. To the S. [South] of the enclosure
and along the hill side for half a mile
are numerous cairns and hut circles.
About 1/4 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Allt na Fearna Mòr and
about 400 yds [yards] E. [East] of the road is double hut
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circle. The circle on the W. [West] is of the usual type
measuring 24' x 30' with ent. [entrance] to S.E. [South East] and is
at a slightly higher elevation than its neighbour. The
other circle has been built against the first in
such a way that it is unsymmetrical. Its S.W. [South West]
being formed by the side of the latter. Its entrance
is also to S.E. [South East] and is about 9 ft. [feet] wide. The
entrance of the first seems to be of the usual
character and about 3 ft. [feet] wide. The measurements
of the second circle are 30' x 39'.
About 40 yds [yards] S. [South] is one of the double mounded
enigmas! In the centre is a circular depression
[Margin] Kiln?
of about 6' diameter. It is flanked on either
side by mounds of earth & stone running N. & S. [North & South]
about 20 ft. [feet] in length and 13' broad across the
base at the centre, slightly converging to
the S. [South] where the entrance is. They are at highest
3'.6" above the centre of the depression. The entrance
is about 2' wide and is carefully defined
on one side with a single square edged stone 2'.4"
long and by two similar stones on the opposite
side. Though the mounds are not continued
across the back of the construction there
seems to be a base of a wall in that position.
I pierced the interior which seemed in the
very centre to be very free from stones as if it
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might have been a well. Can these be
places for water? It was pouring rain
& I found great difficulty in making notes
or looking at my map. I pushed on
however to visit the “tumuli” indicated on
the map (24b) and finding on the hill
above them the remains of an excellent
stone circle unnoted I thought it time
to return & start fresh on it another day.
23rd June. As I have been feeling a tightness
across my forehead for some days I took
a rest and fished with Harry Butler in
Bearnoch. The sky was covered with heavy
thunderous clouds & we did no good. 11 trout
weighing 7½ lbs. [pounds]. I had one lanky brute 1 1/2 lbs [pounds]
24 June. Lairg Moor The group of cairns about 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of Lairg
church is of the usual character. There are
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10
remains of one or two hut circles now ill defined.
About 250 yds [yards] N.W. [North West] of Sydney Ho. [House] Lairg Moor, are
two hut circles set in relation to an old enclosing
bank. The bank or mound is irregular in
outline and height but in places it is 12' - 14' ft. [feet]
across. and 2 ft [feet] high. It crosses the moor
from N.W. to S.E. [North West to South East] along the edge of a slight
elevation and on reaching the point where the
hut circles have been placed it turns to the S. [South]
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and proceeding in the direction of Sydney Ho. [House] crosses the road and is lost
in the cultivated land beyond. There
is an opening through the bank, 6 ft. [feet] across just
where it alters its direction, flanked on the S. [South] by a
broadening of the mound to 20 ft. [feet] and on the opposite
side by a hut circle placed against the mound on
its outer face. The circle measures about 20' x 23'
and has two entrances, one to the S.E. [South East] and another
on to the entrance passage to the interior of the enclosure.
Nearly opposite the opening & about 50 ft. [feet] NW. [North West]
within the mound is another hut circle of similar
dimensions, well preserved with an entrance to S. [South].
To the N. & N.E. [North & North East] of the circles are a number of small
cairns of usual type.
About 150 yds. [yards] N.E [North East] of Sydney Ho. [House] is another
hut circle of usual type with an entrance to the S. [South].
A number of cairns lie to the N & N.E. [North & North East] of it.
About 300 yds. [yards] of Sydney Ho. [House] are the remains
of a cairn noted on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey]. It has been in
great measure removed. A portion, however,
still remains across the centre from which
the ends of several large upright stones pro:
:trude indicating the chambered character of
the construction. The diameter of the cairn
has been about 47'.
About 600 yds. [yards] N.E. [North East] of Sydney Ho. [House] is a
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cairn overgrown with grass on the top of which
stands a sheepfold (O.S. [Ordnance Survey] Cairn Site.) Its diameter
is about 64' and its height 4' to 5'. There is no
sign that the chamber or cist has been exposed.
The outline has been much disturbed but to:
:wards the E. [East] there is a distinct projection
about 18' in length and about 28' across at
base. The inward curve of the outline towards
the S. [South] is quite apparent and it is evident that
stones have been removed from what was prob:
:ably a similar projection towards the S. [South].
There are no signs of "horns" at the opposite
side of the cairn but at the N. & W. [North & West] are two
semicircles of stones carefully laid about 8' across
which, however, were it not for their symmetrical
position I should consider secondary & probably
the foundations of huts or shelters.
About 250 yds. [yards] N.N.E. [North North East] of Creag Saval is a group
of cairns in number about 2 doz. [dozen] of usual
type and another small group lie about
the same distance to the N.W. [North West].
Near the latter are the remains of a great
circular cairn with a diameter of about
80 ft. [feet]. It has been almost removed but a
ridge is left standing from 4 to 5 ft [feet] high
from N.W. to S.E. [North West to South East] across the centre. Some
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details of the internal arrangement may be con:
:cealed in this fragment as no definite signs
of a chamber are elsewhere visible.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8
About 1/3 m. [mile] S.S.W. [South South West] of Savalmore on a ridge
is a group of cairns and a hut circle. The
hut circle is a circle of 30' Internal dia. [diameter] & well
preserved.
An oval mound on the face of the hill
above the manse of Lairg is marked "cairn" on
the O.S. [Ordnance Survey]. Its longest axis lies N.W. & S.E. [North West & South East] Dia. [Diameter]
83' x 54'. Height about 6 ft. [feet]. It is entirely covered
with turf and I doubt its artificial character
though the S.E [South East] end of it has more appearance
of a sepulchral cairn than the rest.
I visited the churchyard before returning
home but found nothing of any importance.
I took it easy today & occasionally rested
so did not feel my head so much.
25th June. I procured an assistant today as I anti:
:cipated much measurement. We proceeded
first to the group of cairns which lie about the
top of a low grassy hill about 1/4 m. [mile] N [North] of Lairg
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] No. 8
Lodge. It consists of about 16 small cairns of
the usual type covered with vegetation.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] No. 4
About 1/2 m. [mile] due N. [North] on the AnT-Sròn a ridge
running N. and S. [North and South] are a large number of cairns &
[Continued on page 149] |
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[Continued from page 148]
several circles. On the E [East] face of the hill
towards the S. [South] end of it is a singular construction.
The main feature is a circle of contiguous boulders
the largest of them from 18" to 2' high & about the
same width at base, with a diameter of about
46 ft. [feet]. A number of the stones have been removed
so recently that the beds in the peat where they
stood still remain. On the N. [North] for a considerable
distance there is a blank from which the stones have
probably long ago been removed. At four feet
within the circle the remains of another, concentric
but of smaller stones is at several points quite
apparent, and also at 4' outside the main
circle another also concentric and of lower stones
is met with. The growth of heather rather ob:
:scures these details in places. Towards the S.E. [South East]
is an entrance - 4' to 5' wide through the main
circle edged with stones on either side for 9' towards
the centre.
The slabs from which two large
stones which stood with their broad faces at right
angles to the circumf. [circumference] of the circle in line on one
side of this passage are quite evident. At 9' inwards
there is a regular causeway of large stones laid across
the end of the opening for a further distance of
9' at the end of which is a low mound or
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[Continued from page 149]
grass covered circular cairn occupying the centre of the
circle 11 ft. [feet] across and about 1 1/2 ft. [feet] high.
Between the circles there is no sign of a turf bank
as in an ordinary hut circle and although here and there
are a few stones there is no indication whatever
of a wall or bank. Piercing the turf in the
interior I found stones over nearly the whole
interior area about 8" below the surface. I
do not know what to make of this. I am not
satisfied that its object was sepulchral.
About 40 yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of the last is a low cairn
of 24' diameter, which appears to have been en:
:closed within a circle of low stones about 9'
apart, the circle having a diameter of from
36 to 38 ft. [feet]. Of the fourteen stones which must
have formed the circle only 3 small ones
remain but there are the well defined seats
of seven others leaving only four unaccounted
for. The evidence I hardly consider conclusive
but the circle worked out with wonderful
accuracy from the existing stones & the
seats of the uprooted ones. The existing stones
though firmly set in the peat do not protrude
more than 10" to a foot & are not broad. The
stones removed have all been larger. Most
of them stood with their broad faces at
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[Continued from page 150]
right angles to the line of the circumference.
The cairn is not more that 2' to 2 1/2 in height.
About 40' E [East] of the last is a small depression
bounded by a bank about 8' across & 14' high on the
E [East] side in which direction the ground slopes.
The Interior is circular with a diameter of
from 6 to 7 ft. [feet] and has been entered from the S. [South].
There are numerous cairns all along the slope
of the hill facing the S.E. [South East].
Towards the top of the hill and S.E. [South East] of the
large enclosure indicated on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map is a
hut circle with entrance to S.E. [South East], 9' wide. It is
of the usual form & measures 36' across by 41'
in length. The banks of turf & stone as usual.
I consider this as also others with wide entrances
to have been cattle enclosures.
About 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Ant-Sròn across a
stretch of boggy land rises the Cnoch a' Chatha
A grassy hill about 200 ft [feet] in height & running
SE. [South East] and N.W. [North West] for about 1/2 m. [mile]. It is simply covered
with remains. There are scores of cairns of
the usual class. A number also which
I suspect to be heaps of stones gathered from
the surface of fields - old cattlefolds, hut
circles & walls of ancient enclosures.
Some of the circles here present new features.
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[Continued from page 151]
They have been formed of stone and give indica:
:tions of chambers in the thickness of the walls.
The debris in the interior of one is so great as to sug:
:gest that it has been roofed. The form of these
huts is no longer pear shaped but either circular
or oval with the longest axis across the interior
from side to side. The cairns show no change
in outward form and hut circles of the
ordinary type occur at various places over
the hill. There are here also the same curious
irregularly curving walls connecting small
enclosures as I observed on the Ard and
beyond Lairg Station. An S shaped cattle
fold [(S) sketch inserted here] may give a clue to the meaning
of similar smaller constructions observed in
Strath Naver near the Carnachaidh Burn.
Beginning the survey of the hill from the
S.E. [South East] end, there are observable a number of
round cairns overgrown with turf of the
usual character (these extend all over the
crest and flanks of the hill). Near them
is a hut circle of usual type measuring
29' x 35' internally with entrance to the S.E. [South East].
A little to the N.W. is another whose breadth
is greater than its length, measuring 14' x 12. The
entrance to the S.E. [South East]. From its N.W. [North West] a bank curves
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[Continued from page 152]
northwards up the hill and for about [--] and
[Margin - Sketch inserted here]
then running W [West] for about 15 ft. [feet] meets the E. [East] side
of another circle at its entrance. The latter "circle"
is 33 ft. [feet] in diameter and has an entrance to the
S. [South] about 33 ft. [feet] across, being probably a cattle enclosure.
The bank enclosing it where best preserved on the E. [East]
side is about 13' across & 3' high formed of earth or turf
and stones. Some 40 ft. [feet] to the S. [South] of the lower
circle is apparently the opening through a
bank or wall the ends of which are discernible
on either side running in N.W. and N.E. [North West and North East] directions
respectively.
Some 40 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the upper enclosure
are the remains of a circular stone building
of 14' internal diameter, with entrance to the S. [South]
and walls of boulders 6' across foundations.
A little to the N. [North] of it is a well preserved hut
circle of the ordinary type measuring 26'
x 31' with entrance to the S. [South] 5' wide. The bank
thickens towards the entrance where it is 11' across.
About 60 ft. [feet] S.W. [South West] of the last are the ruins of
a stone structure showing remains of walls
from 18" to 2' high & from 9' to 10' thick. It is oval with its longest
axis at right angles to the direction of its entrance
which is to the S. [South]. Its internal measurements
are 25' x 23'. The entrance is much ruined
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[Continued from page 153]
but appears to have been about 2' wide. There
are indications that the interior has been sub-divided
into small oval or round chambers with outlines
of boulders but the debris lying all over the interior
renders the plan indefinite.
About 50 yds [yards] N.W. [North West] of the last is a construction with
two circular enclosures separated from each other by
a stone foundation 3 ft. [feet] across and bounded on the
W [West] side by a mound of earth and stones 29' long, 14'
broad on base and 2' - 3' high and on the E [East] by a
mound of lesser dimensions. The two circles lie in line in a
direction NW. and SE. [North West and South East]. That towards the N.W. [North West] is oval & measures
internally 13' in length x 9' in breadth and appears to
have a wide opening to the NE. [North East] the ends of the
mounds as usual not being brought round to form
an entrance. The circle to the SE [South East] measures 8' in
breadth x 10' in length and has an entrance to the SE. [South East]
2' wide and through a wall with a well defined edge
2'.5" thick on the W. [West] side, the stone on the opposite side
being overgrown with grass the actual length of the
passage is unascertainable. From the E [East] side
of the circle near the centre, a wall runs SE. [South East] for
[Margin - Sketch inserted here]
about 40' then turns NE [North East] up the hill for about
70 yds [yards] thereafter turning sharply to the N [North] and
NW [North West] for about 100 yds [yards] terminates in an oval
enclosure 22' across x 11' deep, with an opening to S.W. [South West]. Where
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[Continued from page 154]
the wall turns to NE [North East] across an opening of 27 ft. [feet] is the
end of a similar wall which runs more or less
parallel up the hill for 70 or 80 yds [yards] & terminates
in a cup-shaped depression about 12' int. [interior] diameter.
These walls are not defensive and are only
worthy of notice from their connection with
these small enclosures which are a regular
feature of them.
About 150 yds [yards] NW. [North West] of the first stone hut circle
are the ruins of another circular with an internal diameter
of 18 ft. [feet]. At the N. [North] end are indications of a small
oblong chamber (or perhaps of two oval ones) in the
thickness of the wall measuring about 6' x 4' with
an entrance from the interior. The entrance of the
main circle has been to the S. [South].
At the S.E. [South East] extremity of the flat top of the hill
are the ruins of a circular building with a
diameter of 34 ft. [feet] showing traces of chambers in
the thickness of the walls. There is much stone
lying all over the interior to a great extent covered
with grass. There is no height of walling anywhere
visible but the interior is lower than the sides.
The diameter over all is 34 ft. [feet] and that of the
interior appears to have been about 16 ft. [feet]. The
ent. [entrance] has been to the S.E. [South East] through a passage
about 13 ft. [feet] in length 13 ft. [feet] wide at the outer
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end and converging to 2' at the inner. On the
very summit of the Cnoc is a double enclosure, un:
:doubtedly for cattle, forming a diverging spiral.
[Margin - Sketch inserted here]
The upper circle has a diameter of 42' and is sur:
:rounded by a ruined wall 5' to 6' thick. The ent:
:rance to the S. [South] is 20 ft. [feet] wide and is flanked on
the E. [East] by a horn projecting 21 ft. [feet] to the S.E. [South East]. The
wall from the W. [West] side of the entrance runs S. [South] for
about 60' then curves round to the Westwards
forming another enclosure with a diameter of
43' terminating parallel to and 5' distant from
the S. [South] bank or wall. The banks of the lower spiral
are faint and have probably been made of turf.
I have particularly noted this on account of the
resemblance of its plan to those of the so-called "ser:
:pentine" cairns.
Numerous cairns lie all over the hill of the
usual type. One rather prominent lies
to the E [East] of the summit. It has a diameter of 26 ft. [feet]
and is about 3' high. Another about 150 yds [yards]
to the NE [North East] measures 20' in diameter and is some
3' to 4' high.
Towards the NW. [North West] end of the E [East] face about 160 yds [yards]
NE [North East] from the large cairn on the top is a cres:
:centic mound with its concavity towards the NE. [North East]. It
measures 22' from point to point is 11' broad
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[Continued from page 156]
at centre, has a concavity of about 4' and is
about 2' high. It is formed of earth & stones.
Like others I have observed the front of the
crescent faces down hill.
About 30 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of the last is an oval enclosure
surrounded by a broad bank of boulders and
earth about 6' thick with an internal diameter of 10' x 20', entrance
to the SE. [South East]. Longest axis to the ent. [entrance].
On the lower slope of the hill to the NE. [North East] is a
circular enclosure with an internal diameter
of about 13 ft. [feet] with banks from 1 1/2' to 2' above
the bottom of the interior. The entrance apparently
to the NW. [North West].
At the NW [North West] end of the hill on the flank are two
or three enclosures with wide entrances probably
cattle enclosures - one measured was 30' wide x 37 long.
On the W [West] slope of the hill to the N.W. [North West] of the ruins
of the stone enclosures & 100 yds. [yards] or so SE [South East] of the cattle enclosures is a hut circle measuring
26' x 28' with ent [entrance] to the S.E. [South East] and opening out of it
at the N.E. [North East] a smaller circle with diameter of 11'.
On the lower slope of the hill on the W. [West]
side are several cairns of stones which do
not appear to be sepulchral. One over all
measures 18' x 22' with its longest axis to
the SE. [South East] where appears to have been the entrance.
The interior seems to have measured 5' x 4'
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[Continued from page 157]
The exact or approximate location of all these ob:
:jects on a hill featureless except for the remains
themselves is a matter of great difficulty and the
concentration of mind required for the many
problems that present themselves is great and ex:
:hausting. When I turned my steps homeward
I was very weary and glad to get rest about
6.0. This has all been written up on Sunday
and I have worked from 10.0 to nearly 4.0 and
I still have yesterday's visit to the broch at Sallachy
to put on record. This is no sinecure!
26th June. Got one of the hotel boats & rowed
up to Sallachy broch with Jocelyn, a 3 miles
pull against the wind. The broch is situated
on the W [West] bank of Loch Shin about 3/4 m. [mile] N.N.W. [North North West]
of Sallachy and about 100 ft. [feet] above the loch.
It is not on a very strongly defensible position as
many brochs are. It has been cleared out to
a great extent in the interior and the debris
has been removed from the stairway & chambers.
The greatest height of wall exposed to the ex:
:terior is about 6'.6" and on the interior about
10'.4". The thickness of the walls across the top
is 13'.6" and the interior diameter is 32'.6".
The entrance has been to the S.E. [South East] through a
passage at present 15' in length but the outer
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[Continued from page 158]
end is not exposed & 3'.4" wide. There are two chambers opposite
each other in the entrance passage about 8'.8" in
from the exterior (as given in plan). The chamber
on the right has an entrance 2' wide 3 ft. [feet]
through the thickness of the wall, and is itself oval in form with its longest axis in line of its entrance 8'.2"
long, 4'.5" wide, and 7'.6" with a step at the entrance
20" high. The roof has for the most part gone
The left hand chamber appears to be intact ex:
:cept at its entrance where the wall on
the inner side has collapsed. Its dimensions were
of the entrance 23" wide and 3' high, with a step 20" deep. At 19'.6"
to the N.W. [North West] from the left side of inner end of the
main entrance is the entrance to the staircase
and chamber opposite to it. The entrance is
20" above ground level in the interior & is 3'.6" in width & 4' within the wall. The stair
which rises to the right still exists for 7 steps for
the most part broken and displaced, It is 3'.4"
wide. An oval chamber is opposite the stair
3'.6" wide at entrance expanding to 4'.6" and
9'.4" long. It has been covered with an overlapping
roof now gone. The entrance to it is covered
with a lintel 4' long, 19" broad & 11" thick.
On the S. [South] side between the main entrance and
the entrance to the stair at about 9' from the ground
is a single stone projecting about 4" beyond the
wall below and 11" beyond the wall above it
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which for a distance of about 6' along the curve
is slightly restricted so as to form a ledge.
About the same level on the opposite side
the same partial restriction appears for about
the same distance. Opposite the main entrance
at a height of 8'.7" from ground level another similar
stone projects. At this level there has been
a course of larger stones around the inner
circumference.
At 46' S.E. [South East] of the outer end of the entrance
to the broch are the ruins of an outer defensive
wall which curves round to the flanks
meeting the broch at 28' from the entrance on the
S. [South] side and at about 37' on the W. [West]. The details
[Margin - Sketch inserted]
of this defensive work are obscured at the entrance
by the talus of rubbish taken from the interior
in the excavation.
27th. Sunday. Worked all day to make up for my
day's fishing.
28th June. Set out on foot to the E. [East] past Gunn's planta:
:tion towards Balchairn. In the lowest field
on the right side of the road leading up to
the croft is a mound measuring from
60-70 ft. [feet] diameter surrounded by a ditch
about 40 ft. [feet] wide and about 5 ft. [feet] deep.
There is a slight rampart on the top of
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[Continued from page 160]
the counterscarp. It is situated close to
the E [East] boundary of the field and the whole
site has long been under cultivation. On the
O.S. [Ordnance Survey] it is marked "site of cairn".
Some 300 yds. [yards] from the S. [South] end of the road on
the W. [West] side of it, and near the lowest of the
two crofts are the remains of a circular cairn. It
has been greatly dilapidated - a large sheep
fold abuts on it to the E [East] and on the S.W. [South West] are
the foundations of cottages. The diameter
appears to have been about 90'. A portion
of the cairn containing the chamber remains
to a height of several feet in the centre. 43'
from the NE. [North East] edge two large pointed stones
2'.3" apart protrude for 1' to 14" and at
8' further in the same direction the heads of
another similar pair 2' apart are visible.
The stones are set so that those diagonally
opposite are parallel. The breadth of chamber
appears to be about 6'.
Behind the shepherd's house at Savelbeg is
the remaining half of a cairn the house being
partially built on the site of the remainder.
It appears to have been circular with diameter
of from 60 - 70 ft. [feet] and where the section is
exposed is still about 6 ft. [feet] high. It is overgrown
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with grass on the surface. Neither cist or chamber
is exposed.
About 1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of Creag Saval between the old
road leading to the ford over the Allt Chaisegail
and the fence to W [West] of it a green hillock rises
from the swampy moorland. Near its S.E. [South East] end
is a small circle measuring internally about
12' x 16' with its entrance S.E. [South East] and 2' wide,
the thickness of the bank at base being about 6'.
Some 8' in from ent. [entrance] is a semicircular setting of Stones 2'.6" across evidently a hearth.
I cut out a turf & found charcoal but in very small quantity.
About 30' S. [South] of it is a larger circle measuring
internally about 30' x 33', with entrance from S.E. [South East].
About 40' N.E [North East] of the small circle is another larger one
broken down on the E [East] side with entrance S.E. [South East] about
[Margin] unnoted
10' across. All along the hillock are small
cairns of the usual character.
A rather rough walk over a boggy moor brought
me to the Allt Chaisegail a nice looking trouting
burn. Across it I met the shepherd driving
a nice flock of black faced sheep which are
much less in vogue here than the Cheviots.
He told me of a group of cairns evidently of
the usual class lying between Cnoc Neill &
Loch Beannoch & indicated their position on
my map. There is a fine specimen of a
glacial morain running N. & S. [North & South] towards the
burn. It resembles a great rampart about
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[Continued from page 162]
20' in height.
About 1/3 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the ford over the Chaisegail
on the lower slope of Cnoc Neill overlooking the
flow is a good specimen of a hut circle.
Its internal measurements are 32' x 33', the sur:
:rounding bank at the entrance about 6' thick
and 2' high largely over grown with heather
except on the outside to right of the entrance
where the construction of the wall of boulders
set in earth or turf is well displayed. The
entrance is to the SE. [South East].
On the SE [South East] end of a grassy hill, whose summit rises some 150 yds. [yards] to the NW. [North West] in a
commanding position at Altbrech about
1 m. [mile] E [East] of Dalchork are the remains of a
broch. It has been sadly dilapidated
and used as a quarry for sheepfolds and
numerous secondary constructions in its
immediate neighbourhood. Of the outer wall
little but the lowest course remains some of
the stones composing it being over 3' in length
& from 18" to 2' high. The interior is equally
demolished & the outline of the wall is only
ascertainable with difficulty. The Interior
diameter has been about 31'.6" and the thickness
of the walls 13'. The entrance has been from
the SE [South East] and seems to have been about 3' wide
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[Continued from page 163]
[Sketch inserted, transcribed on following page] |
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[Continued from page 163]
through a passage 13' in length. The door checks if any
existed have gone & the sides are much ruined
There have been chambers on both sides entering
from the passage, that on the right about 6'.4"
in from the exterior that on the left perhaps a
little further in. The right hand chamber is
entered by a passage through the wall 1'.8" wide and
about 4' long. The chamber itself has been about
10' long but as the roof & outer wall are gone its
other dimensions are unobtainable. The passage
into the chamber on the left seems to have been
about 2'.6" in length & 2' broad. The chamber has
been about 7' long and only about 2'.8" broad,
but its ruined state makes these measurements rather
unreliable as its original form. Some 4' S [South]
of the end of it is the back wall of another
chamber still 6' high and 4'.10" wide. Its length
is unascertainable with certainty as the W. [West] end is blocked
up with ruins but it appears to have been about 7' and
a continuation for other 8' Westward
of its S. [South] wall most probably indicates the position
of the stair. 5'.6" further W. [West] is the S. [South] end
of another small chamber which has been
about 4' wide, & is filled with stones.
Following the curve of the wall from the
E [East] side of the entrance the back of a chamber
[Continued on page 165] |
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[Continued from page 164]
lying to the N. [North] is met with at about 44'.6". It has
a width of about 5' but as the wall on the outside
or N.E. [North East] is perpendicular & built against the
rounded wall at the back it has probably been
originally wider. 3'.6" to the E [East] of it is the
end wall of another chamber running SE. [South East]
for 13'. The outer wall here also presents the
same feature as in the previous case. The
span of the original roof has probably been
too great and an additional wall has been
necessary for its support. The present greatest
width of this chamber is about 3'.6".
It was very warm as I started off to look
for the shepherd's cairns to the N. [North] of Cnoc
Neill about 1 1/4 m. [miles] to N.E. [North East]. I stepped out over
bog & heather & though I wandered all
around & beyond the spot he indicated I
could see no sign of them so after en:
:joying a view from the top of a hill to the
N. [North] of Cnoc Neill 900ft. [feet] up I turned my
steps towards Loch Beannoch where
Harry Butler & Jocelyn were fishing & joined
them there about 4.0. I fished for an
hour & got 1 trout. There are very fine
trout in this loch being frequently caught
up to 2 lbs [pounds] but they are very dour!
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Rogart.
29th June. Bicycled to Dalnessie 9 miles off, at
the edge of the Duke's deer forest at the head of
the Brora. Called on the keeper who told me
of one or two objects on the Black Water &c. & then
set off over some rough hummocky moorland
for 2 m. [miles] due E. [East]. On the S. [South] slope of the hill
between the Allt na Inse Mor & the rivulet
to the E [East] of it and about 3/4 m [mile] N. [North] of the Brora
is a group of "tumuli" and hut circles. At
the SE. [South East] end of the group near the W [West] bank of the
burn is a mounded construction with an
opening 7' across towards the N. [North] with a
cup shaped depression in the centre 7' from
N. to S. [North to South] and 5' across the bottom of which is 2'.6"
below the top of the mound and a few inches
lower than the level of the ground outside.
The edge of the hollow is 2' in from the outer edge.
The enclosing mound is 14' and the length of the whole
construction from N. to S. [North to South] 22'.
[Margin - Sketch inserted]
The cairns which lie along the hillside for
several hundred yards W. [West] are of the usual
type from 12' - 18' dia. [diameter] and from 1' - 2'.6" high.
The hill abounds in large boulders & the
cairns seem to have been constructed of
rather larger stones than usual. The end
of one cairn is a boulder 4' long & 2' high with
[Continued on page 167] |
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[Continued from page 166]
another 2' x 2'. next it. Within 5' of this cairn
is a hut circle measuring about 19' x 22. There
is a break in the circumference directly opposite
the cairn towards the E [East] but from the form the original
entrance seems to have been as usual to SE. [South East].
Towards the N. [North] end of the group about 100 yds. [yards] SE [South East]
of the old sheep stell is another mounded con:
:struction with its entrance to the E. [East]. The interior
measures 11' to entrance x 7' across. The enclosing
mound is about 12' thick on the N. [North] side and
thins away to either side of the entrance, forming
the sides of a passage about 4' long and 1'.8" wide,
faced with stone, for 4' on one side and 2' on the
S. [South] or left side. A large earth fast boulder has
been utilised to form part of the bank on
the S.W. [South West]. There appears to have been a passage
[Margin - Sketch inserted]
broken through the back to the N. [North] of this boulder.
Some 40' N. [North] of the last is a small circular
enclosure with an interior diameter of about 7'
and an entrance towards the E [East] 1'.4" across.
The enclosing bank of earth & stones about
5' thick. About 60' W [West] are the remains of
another similar enclosure. What relation
have these to the ordinary hut circles? The
cairns seem equally associated with
both. The people among the hills are
[Continued on page 168] |
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| gb0551ms-36-8-168 |
[Page] 168
[Continued from page 167]
most kind and hospitable. On my way home
I met a nice looking watcher, Elphinston by
name, who had been a water bailiff on the Helmsdale
he took me to his house & gave me a tumbler
of milk and when I got back to Dalnessie,
Mrs. Mackay the wife of the keeper had prepared
tea for me with an egg so by the time I reached
Fairlachd where Jocelyn & her father had been fishing
I felt quite fresh.
30th June 1909. Took the public motor to Tutim in
Strath Oykell 2 1/4 miles beyond Invercassley to see
a standing stone mentioned by Mr. Mackenzie
called Clach an' Fhithicht. Neither the shepherd
nor Murray the water bailiff who joined me
knew anything about it so I was unable to find it.
We visited an old enclosure about 150 yds. [yards] N.W. [North West] of
the shepherd's house showing low long mounds in
the centre said on that account to be an old
grave yard but I doubt it. The actual
graveyard stands on the top of a bank about
(?) 350 yds [yards] E. [East] of the shepherd's house. It contains a
number of old stones few of which have any
devices or inscriptions on them. In the NW [North West]
corner is a grave slab on the top of a modern
grave. It is of the native schist, 4' long x
1'.7" broad, and has incised on its surface
[Continued on page 169] |
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[Continued from page 168]
a plain Latin long-shafted Celtic cross with the arms expanded
to the extremities and the angles at the intersection
hollowed. The ends of the arms are straight
and the base of the stem is rounded. The
full length of the cross is 3' breadth across arms
1'.6" width of shaft, 5" arms 8" in length expand:
:ing from 4" to 5".
[Margin - Sketch inserted]
Caisteal na Coire. In a lowlying meadow
almost formed into an island by the Oykell
and a creek which runs W. [West] for about 1/4 m. [mile]
are the fragmentary ruins of a small rectangular
building. The NW [North West] wall has entirely disappeared
and the other walls are much ruined
and no details of the structure remain.
The exterior measurements appear to have
been about 29' x 23' and the thickness of the
walls 7'. There is no sign of vaulting. The
castle seems to have been encircled
by a ditch.
The mounds noted by Mr. Mackenzie near
Achness Falls on the right bank of the Cassley
are natural. The rabbit burrows show that
they are sandy. From Invercassley it
is a beautiful walk through the woods of
Rosehall and up the hillside to Altass Mor,
1/4 m [mile] beyond the P.O. [Post Office] on a piece of moorland
[Continued on page 170] |
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[Continued from page 169]
about 150 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the road is a small group of four
or five cairns of the usual sort.
On the moor to the N. [North] of Altass Mor and directly
to the W. [West] of the cultivated fields are a considerable
number of small cairns and the remains of a
hut circle.
Proceeding N. [North] for about a mile & half on the S.W. [South West] slope
of the Doir a' Chatha about the 700 ft. [feet] level and
just above the enclosed land is a large
group of cairns and hut circles. Just above
the most E. [East] of the crofts is a circle of the usual
type with an entrance SE. [South East] overgrown with heather.
Near the upper side of the enclosed piece of moor:
:land directly behind the Eastmost croft is a
hut circle measuring interiorly 23' x (about) 27'.
The bank at the entrance has gone & only one of the
stones of the outside end remains at 32' from back
of circle. 8 cairns or so lie around.
About 40' S.E [South East] of the entrance to the circle and
with its convex side towards it is a crescentic
mound 12' in thickness at centre, 30' between the
points of the crescent and with a concavity
of 10'.
Some 30' N. [North] of the N.W. [North West] end of the enclosure
behind the Eastmost croft is a mounded con:
:struction covered over with heather. It is oval
[Continued on page 171] |
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[Page] 171
[Continued from page 170]
in form with its longest axis N.W. and S.E. [North West and South East]
measuring 19' x 35'. Externally it is from 18" to 2' high.
From the E [East] a narrow passage leads with a curve
to the interior, gradually expanding to a width of
3'.7", where it terminates at 9' from the outside;
and sloping downwards till the floor level at
the back is 2' deep. Two large stones with flat
faces to the chamber form the back wall, the
largest stone being 2' high & 2' across. The
[Margin - Sketch inserted]
centre of this back wall is 19' from the S.E. [South East] edge
and 12' from the NW. [North West]. The breadth of mound behind
it is 10'
About 1/2 m. [mile] W. [West] close beside the farm house
of Doir a Chatha are the remains of the broch.
It is now a structureless heap of ruins from
which the most of the large stones have been
removed. It has apparently been of great size
& the ruin measures 106' across but as no
walls are visible the actual dimensions of the
structure are not obtainable.
Mr. Stewart the crofter invited me into his house
& refreshed me with milk while we discussed
the iniquities of the government! His idea
that Scotland should be provided with a fort
like Gibraltar for which there were many excellent
sites was rather original. He saw me on my
[Continued on page 172] |
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[Continued from page 171]
way to Achurigill where Jocelyn awaited me with
a motor and we parted regretting that my wandering
footsteps were not likely to take me again to Doir a Chatha.
It has been an exquisite day. The hawthorn is in
full blossom, beds of wild thyme empurple the
grassy banks by the roadside and the first
flowers of the bell heather are coming out.
Strath Oykell in its lower reaches is beautifully
wooded. Natural Scotch firs of great size are
dotted along the hillside near Tutim and
in the woods of Rosehall there is great
variety of timber.
1st July. A lovely morning. Rode on my bicycle
to the broch near Dalchork. It is situated
on the left hand bank of the Tirry on the top of a
knoll which rises to a height of about 30' above
the river from the flat haugh along side.
The numerous sheep drains show that the
surrounding land was formerly boggy, and
must have added to the defensibility of the site.
Towards the river the slope is abrupt and on the
S. [South] the edge of the mound has been scarped
to a height of about 6' and a short distance
from its base the ruins of a wall curve
round westward towards the river bank.
On the N. and E. [North and East] sides coming up to the
[Continued on page 173] |
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[Continued from page 172]
edge of the broch are considerable remains
of enclosures which are probably original as
the slope of the mound in these directions
is not steep and there are no other signs of
outer defences. The broch itself has occupied
the centre of the flat summit but is now
a structureless mass showing no wall faces
or other measurable details & from which all
the larger stones appear to have been removed.
It does not appear to have been of exceptional
size.
About 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of a point 1 1/4 along the branch
road to Dalnessie on the S. [South] slope of the hill
across the Feith Osdail occupying the
summit of a slight grassy elevation
are the remains of a circular construction.
In the centre is a well defined circle of
contiguous boulders from 12" to 3' in length and at
largest 2' broad & about 1' in height. The
diameter is about 12' interiorly and the
entrance has been towards the E. [East]. The
width of the entrance is not accurately obtainable
as a detached stone lies in it but it
cannot have been more than 2' and was
possibly less. At 16' from the centre of
the construction towards the N. & N.E. [North & North East] are the
[Continued on page 174] |
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[Page] 174
[Continued from page 173]
remains of an outer circle approximately concentric,
connected with the inner circle by a line of boulders
which curves round towards the N. [North] side of the
inner entrance. 7' N. [North] of the entrance another
line of stones extends directly to the outer circum:
:ference, and 3' further N. [North] there is a small bed
of stones projecting 3'.6" into the space between
the circles. There is a suggestion of round
chambers being enclosed within these cross lines
but without excavation the plan is only indefinitely
obtainable. At about 21' E.N.E. [East North East] of the centre is a large
standing stone 4' high and 2' across its base set
with its broad face parallel with what appears
to be the line of the entrance to the inner enclosure
and from its outer edge the foundation of a wall
appears to run N.E [North East] for 8 ft. [feet] and
turning NW. [North West] forms the circumference of a
third circle, also approximately concentric
about 34' from the common centre. Four
large boulders, with their flat faces inwards
stand in the line of this circumference towards
the N and NE. [North and North East] 34' from centre at N.E [North East] and
38' at N. [North]. Southward of the standing stone
[Margin - Sketch inserted]
the line of the outer circumf. [circumference] swings
outward again and towards the S.E [South East] is
27' from centre. Beyond SSE. [South South East] it is lost.
[Continued on page 175] |
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[Page] 175
[Continued from page 174]
The surface is overgrown with turf and
the plan difficult to make out. I made
a slight excavation near the centre of the
inner circle removing a turf with my knive
and 6" to 8" below found a considerable
amount of charcoal.
About 20' E [East] is a flat topped mound from the
edge of which many large stones protrude.
On another grassy hillock about 120 yds [yards] S.E. [South East] is
a foundation of a structure 20' long rectangular
towards S. [South] end where it is 8' wide interiorly and
with a rounded addition at the N. [North] end 7' from N to S [North to South]
x 11' across. In the interior of the latter is foundation
of a circular chamber of 5' dia. [diameter].
On ruins of next knoll about 30 yds. [yards] E. [East] are ruins
of a small rectangular enclosure about 6' sq. [squared].
On another hillock about 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of the first
circle is a structure overgrown with grass
with apparently an entrance to the W. [West]
measuring 28' x 31' and in outline resembling
an ordinary hut circle. The outline of founda:
:tions plainly indicated below the turf show that
the back half has been divided up into several
small circular enclosures. There appears to
have been an entrance into one of the small
chambers at the back from the N. [North]. In rear
[Continued on page 176] |
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[Page] 176
[Continued from page 175]
of the construction are two small round enclosures
facing each other open towards S. and N. [South and North] respectively
5' int. dia. [interior diameter] & 3' across opening.
About 30 yds. [yards] W.N.W. [West North West] of the first mentioned con:
:struction is probably the remains of another
similar overgrown with grass. From the centre
of what appears to be the interior circle at about
8" below present level I found charcoal.
On a knoll about 120 yds [yards] NW [North West] of the first con:
:struction are the confused ruins of a circular
building. The surface is so covered with stones
that the plan is difficult to determine. It appears
to have been a dry stone structure with diameter
over all of from 29' to 30' with various small
chambers of from 4' to 6' interior diameter in
the thickness of the walls. The thickness between
the chamber & outside of wall is in each case 6'
and there appears to have been considerable
thickness between the chambers themselves.
Two small circular constructions of
about 8' dia. [diameter] over all have abutted on the
N and W. [North and West]. The entrance is not apparent
in the present state of ruin but it has probably
been from the E. [East]. From the SE [South East] a wall has
curved round towards the E [East] for 70' then turned
westward for about 24' and in the direction of its
[Continued on page 177] |
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[Page] 177
[Continued from page 176]
termination a cross wall has curved out for
15' from the SE. [South East] wall thus forming an enclosure
with an entrance 15' wide. There are no cairns
anywhere visible in the neighbourhood of these
ruins.
[Margin - Sketch inserted]
On the left bank of the Feith Osdail about 1 1/2 m. [miles]
above its junction with the River Tirry are
the foundations of a trilobed structure
similar to that above Loch Coire nam Feuran
(p. [page] 13). It is [sketch inserted here] formed of 3 small circular
enclosures 2 in line facing N & S [North & South] respectively
and the 3rd, on the E [East] apparently facing the entrance, on
the E. [East]. The enclosures are about 4' from front
to back & about 5' wide at entrance. The distance
between the W. [West] points of the opposite enclosure
is 9'. And from the same points to the centre
of the back line of the E. [East] circle measures 16'
at the N. [North] and 14' on S. [South]. The walls seem to have
been only about 1'.6" across & were built without
mortar. The whole is much overgrown with grass. About 10' S.W. [South West] are the remains of
a small rectangular enclosure, measuring
8' x 6' interiorly - and about 30' E [East] are the founda:
:tions of another, apparently rectangular
measuring 7' x 9'. About 1/4 m. [mile] S. [South] 100 yds. [yards] or so,
to S. [South] of road to Dalnessie is a small group
of cairns, a hut circle of ordinary type
[Continued on page 178] |
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[Page] 178
[Continued from page 177]
and a small mounded construction of usual character
between two parallel mounds.
2nd July. As I have gone deaf in my right ear I visited the
doctor this morning & had it syringed. When I told him what
I was doing he amused me by remarking "I am afraid
you won't find much round Lairg." He was rather sur:
:prised when I told him of cairns &c. lying within a stone's
throw of his own door. After writing up notes I bicycled
to Lairg station & walked to the stone circle near
Achinduich. It is situated on the hill side about
150 ft. [feet] above the road and 1/4 m. [mile] due S. [South] and nearly the
same distance NE [North East] of the shepherd's cottage. There
has been an outer and inner circle. Of the
outer circle 5 consecutive stones remain from
N.E. to S.S.W. [North East to South South West] those on the E [East] side & S. [South] having been removed.
The diameter has been 28'. The stones have been set
with their broad faces at right angles to the line
of the circumference. The largest stone, that at
the NE. [North East] is 4' high above ground, 3' wide at base and
about 1' thick, has a sharp edge to the interior of
the circle and slightly tapers to the top. Counting
from NE. to S by W. [North East to South by West]. No. 2 is a similar stone to No. 1
3' across 4' high & nearly 2' thick.
It is 8' distant from No. 1. No. 3 is 11' distant from No. 2
is slightly tilted at NE. [North East] measures 3' wide, is exposed
for a height of 3'.8" and is about 1' thick. No. 4
[Continued on page 179] |
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[Page] 179
[Continued from page 178]
is 10' distant from No. 3 is 3' broad, 3'.4" high and
about 14" thick at centre. No. 5 - 6' further on is a
rectangular block about 3'.1" high and in thickness 1'3" x 1'.
Of the inner circle only three stones remain
at about 5' within the circumference of the outer
circle, & approximately concentric with it, and
within the existing one. The most Southerly stone
is situated North by W [West] of the most Southerly
stone of the outer circle (No. 5) and is a stone of
similar character. It is a tall block, rectangular
in section measuring 1'.4" x 8" with its broad face
at right angles to the line of the circumference
and is 3' high. It has evidently been interfered
with and recently propped up. No. 2 Northwards
has been similarly set, but is tilted over, is
exposed for a length of 2'.4", is 1'.3" across and
6" thick. It is about 4' distant from No. 1. No. 3 is
a broad flat pointed slab set with its face
in line of the circumference 2'.6" across base
7" thick & exposed for 1'.10" and is about 4'
from No. 2. There is a depression in the centre
as if the interior had been excavated and
a slight mound on the E. [East] side tends to con:
:firm this. There are no tumuli or hut
circles immediately near though they occur on
the slope below nearer the road.
[Continued on page 180] |
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[Page] 180
[Continued from page 179]
[Sketch inserted with text, transcribed on following page] - Stone circle 1/4 m. [mile] NE [North East] of Shepherd's house at Achinduich Lairg |
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[Page] 180
[Continued from page 179]
Walking on to the cottage I found the shepherd
and a friend sitting outside. Taking a seat on
a bench beside them I had a talk with them
about the ancient objects on their herdings. The
shepherd of the house, bore the name of Sinton and
from Sinton near Hawick his parents had come
to the north, while the father of his friend who
was a Jackson came from Fairloan near
Jedburgh. I was given the usual tumbler of milk
for which I was most grateful as the day was
oppressively sultry and as the shepherds were
going my way we set off together. About
3/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of Achinduich Lodge at the edge of a birch
wood between the road and the railway about 150 yds [yards] W [West] of the former Sin:
:ton drew my attention to a circular enclosure.
It is surrounded by the base of a strong
bank or wall well defined on the outer and inner
circumference with large contiguous boulders.
It appears to have been subdivided in the interior
into numerous chambers but as it is
entirely overgrown with turf and bracken
the such an interpretation of the visible ridges
is mere conjecture. The interior diameter from
N to S. [North to South] is 51' from E to W. [East to West] 48'. The thickness
of the walls is 10' and 14' on either side of the
entrance which is 3' wide & towards the W. [West].
[Continued on page 181] |
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[Continued from page 180]
On the right bank of the Radoich burn a
short distance E. [East] of the railway is a great
heap of iron slag, about 30' across and 4' high.
Crossing the Shin by a suspension bridge I
walked on to Achany through beautiful birch
woods along the bank of the river, and sought out
Campbell the forester, a most intelligent man with
whom I had previously corresponded. On the
way to examine the cairn he had mentioned at
Ballefeur "As we were there anyway" he drew my
attention to something which had often puzzled
him. It turned out to be a fine chambered cairn.
It is situated on the right bank of the Gruidie
immediately to the E [East] of the road below Achany.
It has been much dilapidated and there
are signs of structures nearby which must have
been built out of it. The chamber is fully
exposed. The diameter of the cairn appears
to have been about 56' along the direction of
the chamber (i.e. N.E and S.W) [North East and South West] and 69' across it.
The front of the cairn towards the N. [North] is marked
by a kerb of large stones with an upright pointed
stone to the N. [North] of the chamber.
The front follows the curve of the
circumference but about 7' inwards from what
is probably the end of the entrance passage
[Continued on page 182] |
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[Continued from page 181]
is the centre of a crescentic setting of large flat
slabs, rounded on the top, four in number set with
their broad faces towards the front of the cairn.
The stones are four in number, 3 of them measuring
from 3'.6" to 4'.6" across, (the fourth being somewhat
smaller) by about 14" thick and projecting from 1'.6"
to 2" above the cairn. They are set 2 on either
side of the position of the entrance passage but
it is possible that there may originally have been
more as the outer stone on the NW [North West] is much further
from the edge than that on the NE. [North East]. The centre pair
are 6'.6" apart and the extreme points of the outer
stones 22' apart. The chamber is roughly rectang:
:ular 12'.9" long, and has been divided
by partition stones, (one only of which remains, on
the W [West] side) at 6' from the back wall forming two
compartments, the inner or Southmost measuring
6' x 5'.2" in breadth, and the outer 4'.11" long by
4'.2" broad. The partition stone projects 2'.1" into
the interior is 2'.1" high and 1'.5" thick. At the N. [North] end
of the chamber is a lintel 3'.4" long 2' broad
and 9" thick supported on the single stones 1'.10"
high and covering an entrance 2'.10" wide.
The main axis of the back compartment is NNE. [North North East] and
SSW. [South South West] but the sides of the outer compartment have
been inclined so as to give it a northerly direction.
[Continued on page 183] |
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[Continued from page 182]
Four large flat slabs form the walls of the
back compartment. One on the W and S [West and South] respectively
and two on the E. [East]. The W [West] slab is 5' across & 4' high
the back one 4'.8" across, 4'.3" high and 15" thick
the S.E. [South East] slab 3' across x 2'.7" high. The fourth slab
has fallen forward owing to the removal of the
partition stone. The outer compartment
has a single large slab on either side, that
[Margin] Sketch inserted
to the W. [West] 3'.5" long x 2'.1" high, that to the E [East] 4'.6"
long x 3'.3" high. The interspaces between the
slabs is as usual filled with neat horizontal
building.
About 1/2 m. [mile] due N. [North] of Achany House towards
the SE. [South East] end of Druim Ballefeur is a round
cairn with a diameter of some 55' from N to S. [North to South]
and 51'.6" from E to W. [East to West] and about 5'.9" high.
Towards the SW. [South West] a portion of the cairn has
been apparently removed 8'.6" along the circumfer:
:ence 3' at back and for 6'.6" inwards. In rear of this a clearing
[Margin] Sketch inserted
of 7' diameter has been made probably for a shelter.
Neither cist or chamber has been exposed.
Rather more than 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] & about 1/2 m. [mile] S [South] of
the shepherd's house at Raemore on a
slight elevation is another cairn. It is
elliptical in outline with its longest axis
E & W. [East & West] measuring 54' x 37'. Height about 6'.
[Continued on page 184] |
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[Page] 184
[Continued from page 183]
The cairn has been pulled about a little in the
centre but no cist or chamber has been exposed.
About 8 small cairns lie to the E. [East].
3rd July. Hired a boat & with Mary & Jocelyn rowed along
the loch to the plantation to visit a construction.
It is situated just within the plantation wall about
3/4 m. [mile] due N. [North] of the summit of the Ord and has been
a broch with a diameter over all of about 56'. The
walls have been removed almost to the lowest
course and no details are obtainable. The
thickness of the walls appears to have been 15'
but the inner facing is indefinite.
On the shore of the narrow strait which
connects the inner loch with the main loch
beyond is much iron slag. The position of the
deposit is about 200 yds [yards] E [East] of the broch and as
the inner loch has been artificially formed
was in former times probably on the side of a
river running out of Loch Shin.
In the afternoon I took Hector Forbes to Balle:
:feur to measure the stone circle & uncover the
overgrown stones of it but before we could
start measuring it came on so wet that we
had to desist & return home.
4th July. Sunday. To prevent my getting into
arrears with my notes I have been working
[Continued on page 185] |
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[Page] 185
[Continued from page 184]
almost all day from 10.0 to 6.0 with an interval
of from 1.0 to 5.0. It is too much but it is
impossible to avoid it there is such an immense
amount of unrecorded material.
5th July. Obtained the assistance of a youth and
returned to Druim Ballefeur to survey the
stone circle &c. It is situated towards the
W. [West] side of the moor near the edge of the slope down
towards the Gruidie and about 3/4 m. [mile] S. [South] of Rae:
:more. It has been formed of 10 stones of which
9 remain in situ or fallen, one has been removed
but large pieces of it have been left where it stood
probably knocked off in dressing it.
[Sketch inserted here] Sc. [Scale] 35' to 1"
[Continued on page 186] |
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It is irregular in outline as several of the stones
are evidently out of position especially towards
the NE. [North East]. The stone at the N. [North] point has gone but
fragments of it remain on the site. The diameter has
been about 88'. The stones are large, thick, syenite
boulders sunk deep in the peat, some have fallen.
They seem to have been set with their broad
faces in line of the circumference. (Full
measurements &c. in notebook).
Some 60' W. [West] of the circle is a cairn covered with
turf standing on the edge of a declivity that runs to the
Grudie. It is about 40' in diameter including
a platform or base of from 7' to 10' in width on
which it appears to stand. It is 6' high from the
edge of the outer circumference and 4' at about
10' - 12' ft. [feet] from the centre.
Some 180 yds [yards] S.W. [South West] of the cairn is a hut circle
with the entrance towards the SE. [South East] measuring
interiorly 31' x 37'. The faces of the encircling bank
are well marked with boulders laid end to end
and the bank appears to have been from 8' to 10' across.
About 100 yds [yards] SSE. [South South East] of the hut circle is a mound
which I believe to be a cairn overgrown with
grass having a diameter of about 25' and 2'.3"
high. On its NW. [North West] face three large pointed stones
stand in line of the circumference, (the
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[Continued from page 186]
largest 2'.2" high & 2'.2" broad at base & 1' thick) with
their broad faces outwards. Three similar
stones lie as if displaced, in the line of the
circumference towards the S. [South].
About 100 yds [yards] SE [South East] are three cairns of 18' - 20'
diameter and 2' - 3' high. A hut circle with
entrance SW. [South West] lies about 100 yds [yards] E [East] of the single
cairn. The inner line of the wall is marked
by pointed stones, the highest about 2', projecting
at irregular intervals. The enclosure is
circular with diameter of 26'. The width of the entrance is not ascer:
:tainable.
On the hill between Gruids and the road from
Lairg to Bonar Bridge on the W. [West] side of the Shin
are a number of hut circles and cairns
About 100 yds [yards] from the road is a group of about
8 cairns and a hut circle through which a
roadway has been cut. One cairn about 30'
W. [West] of the hut circle measures about 30' x 26' and
is about 2' high. Another hut circle lies
about 100 yds [yards] SW [South West] of the first measuring 19' x 24'
interiorly with Entrance towards SE. [South East]. The banks
are more stony than usual and measure about
6' across. A group of 4 or 5 cairns lies to SW. [South West].
About a 1/4 m. [mile] SW. [South West] of the W [West] end of the suspen:
:sion bridge over Shin near Lairg railway station
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[Continued from page 187]
on the top of a sharp decline towards the E [East] is a
hillock which seems to be a cairn though as it is
overgrown with heather I am not absolutely certain.
It is almost circular, measuring 33' from N to S [North to South] and
35' from E to W. [East to West] and is about 5' high.
On a slight rise about 30 yds [yards] S. [South] of the site of the
broch in the plantation to the N. [North] of the Ord is a circular
enclosure overgrown with heather whose dimen:
:sions are in consequence not accurately ob:
:tainable but the interior diameter appears to
be about 25'. Just finished as it settled down to rain.
Left Lairg in the evening for Dornoch.
6th July. A wet day and glad of a rest. Walked
to the cathedral and there met Mr Bentinck
the Minister who took us round. The church
is described in Eccles. Arch. [Ecclesiastical Architecture]. Within it at
the W. [West] end of the nave lie the mutilated remains
of a recumbent effigy on the top of a sarcophagus.
The figure is believed to represent Sir Richard
de Moravia brother of Bishop Gilbert founder
of the Cathedral (? slain at the battle of Embo).
It is shown as clad in chain mail covered with
a jupon showing a bordered edge at the neck
and arm holes. The head of the figure resting on
a small square cushion is detached, the upper
part broken off and the features gone. The arms
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[Continued from page 188]
are gone also the lower half of one of the legs and
the lower part of the remaining foot. There
has apparently been a shield resting on the
left breast and the knight has been girt with
his sword. The legs have been crossed and
have rested on the back of a lion.
The full length of the figure is 6'.11". The
sarcophagus 7' long, 1'.4" high. 1'.11" wide at head
and 1'.6" at foot. The pillow projects 7" beyond
the top of the sarcophagus.
The Bishop's Palace standing on the opposite side
of the street is described in Cast & Dom. Arch. [Castellated & Domestic Architecture].
7th July. A dull day after much rain at night. Took
train to Cambusavie. To the W [West] of the station
rises the Cnoc Odhar and at the E [East] end of it
about 120 yds [yards] N. [North] of the W. [West] end of the cultivated land
are the remains of a large round cairn.
From the centre the greater part of the stones
have been removed exposing the slabs that
form the W [West] side of the chamber which does
not, however, appear to have been cleared out.
The ends of several large stones protrude
through the turf showing the extent. The
dimensions of the cairn have been 62' from
NE to SW [North East to South West] and 69' from SE to N.W. [South East to North West]. The main
axis of the chamber has been along the former
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[Continued from page 189]
direction. There has probably been an outer chamber
or compartment in the same line towards the NW. [North West]
where several large displaced stones are lying, two
of which opposite each other are 2'.6" and 3' long
respectively and lie with their ends 1'.4" apart.
The main chamber is reached at some 25' from the
SE [South East] edge. It has been polygonal in form about
7' long by 6'.6" broad. Of the slabs exposed
that towards the SW. [South West] is about 5' across, 3'.8" high
above ground on outside and 1'.4" in the interior.
About 20' to the N. [North] are the remains of a hut circle
partially demolished and the site of another
about 50' W. [West] of it. Both appear to have been of
the ordinary type. There are a few small
cairns in their neighbourhood but the hill at this part is
overgrown with whins and they are difficult
to find.
About 3/4 m. [mile] WNW. [West North West] a track from Cambusavie
joins the hill road to Achneal. To the E. [East]
of the junction and above the road is a group
of about a dozen cairns of the usual small
type. One however is sub oval measuring 22' x 12'
with its longest axis NE. and SW. [North East and South West].
A few hundred yards nearer Achneal just to the
W. [West] of the wire fence and above the road is a
large cairn sub oval in form, with its longest axis
[Continued on page 191] |
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[Continued from page 190]
E and W. [East and West]. It is 70' in length, 43' across at the
E [East] end and 26' at the W. [West]. About 19' from
the E. [East] it expands to 53' across forming lugs
on either side about 11' across. This peculiarity
seems quite distinct on the N. [North] side but the
partial demolition of the cairn on the S. [South] renders
it less obvious. At the W. [West] end it is only a
foot or two in height and it has risen towards
the E. [East] but as it has been considerably dilapidated
in that direction it is impossible to say where
its greatest elevation was. At height it is
about 6' high. No chamber or cist has been
exposed.
Some 150 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of the cairn is a hut
circle of unusual type. Towards the N. [North] is
an enclosure 19' across and 18' long
rounded at the N. [North] and adjoining it towards
the S. [South] opening off it and formed by a continuation
of the E. [East] wall, a similar enclosure 12' wide
and 19' long and at its N. [North] end where it
opens on the first enclosure 9' across. A cairn:
:like mound of earth and stone 7' wide separates this
from the entrance which is 2' wide,
and 10' long - flanked on the W [West] or left side by
a small circular compartment entering 7'
from the exterior through a passage about 3' long
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[Continued from page 191]
of about 4' interior diameter. The N [North] wall of this com:
:partment being continuous with the W. [West] wall of the
first enclosure. Abutting on the outer wall towards
the NW [North West] is a small circular compartment with an
interior diameter of about 6'.6". The walls of the
structure have been entirely of undressed stone, built
without mortar, about 4'.6" in thickness except on
side of the entrance. (Fig) [Figure].
About 200 yds. [yards] WNW. [West North West] of the cairn is a circular
enclosure with wall 13' in thickness built of large
stones (undressed). The entrance towards the NW. [North West] on
either side of which for a distance of 10' towards the
E [East] and 9' towards the W [West] the wall has been thickened
to 18' feet. The passage is 1'.6" across. On the NW [North West]
is a round recess in the thickness of the wall
4' across and 4' deep and entering from the
interior on the right of the entrance another 4' deep
and 3' across with signs of another similar in
situation and dimension on the opposite
side. To the E [East] side of the centre of the interior
is a built hearth of stone of about 3' interior
diameter partially enclosed by a wall still at the
back about 18" high. The wall enclosing the
whole structure is at most 2' high. The interior
is overgrown with brackens. (Fig.) [Figure].
Some 100 yds [yards] W [West] of the last is another
similar construction with well defined
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[Continued from page 192]
circular recesses in the thickness of the walls.
The interior diameter is about 25'. The thickness
of the walls about 13' expanding on either side
of the entrance to 21' The details of the interior
of the structure are difficult to determine.
From the end of the entrance a bed of stones
extends into the interior towards the S.E. [South East] expanding
from about 5' to 9' across with a length of about
18'. The E [East] side of this bed is 2' distant from the
interior wall opposite and it appears to divide
the structure into two main compartments.
In the thickness of the wall at the S. [South] of the
interior are two semicircular recesses that
at the E [East] side about 4' - 5' dia. [diameter] & that towards the W. [West]
about 3' - 4'. The entrance is towards NW [North West] (Fig ) [Figure].
About 50 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the last is a ruined
structure the walls of which are formed of
boulders about 8' in thickness. Its total
length is 46' and its main features a
circular enclosure at either end. It lies
N & S. [North & South]. The enclosure at the N. [North] end measures
15'.6" across x 13' in length interiorly that at the S. [South]
10' x 11'.6", the connecting portion being about
8' wide & apparently divided into compartments.
There is an outer enclosure abutting on it at
the NW [North West] about 18' in length & expanding
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[Continued from page 193]
[Sketches and text inserted, transcribed on following page] - cf. Vol II [Volume 2]. p. [page] 48. |
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[Sketches inserted, transcribed on following page] |
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from 4' at N [North] to 8' at W. [West] with an entrance to the S. [South].
The entrance to the main structure appears to
have been at the SE. [South East]. There is no sign of a wide
entrance as if it had been for cattle.
About 40 yds. [yards] W. [West] of the last is a hut circle of
about 26' int. dia. [interior diameter] with an entrance about 3' across
towards the W. [West] the walls of stone are about 6' thick
and 10' on either side of entrance.
About 1/4 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the large cairn is a hut
circle with its entrance apparently towards the
SE. [South East]. The walls are of boulders about 7' across
and the interior is about 18' diameter. On either
side of the entrance a wall runs outward on
the S. [South] side for 20 ft. [feet] from the interior whence it
swings back to the flank of the circle enclosing
a chamber entering off the passage near its
outer end, about 18' in length the passage is only
about 1'.4" wide. On the N. [North] side at 20'
from the interior the wall is joined also by a
wall from the flank of the circle but at a sharper
angle and does not appear to enclose a chamber.
Thereafter it is carried for an indefinite dis:
:tance winding down the hill side (Fig. ) [Figure].
About 300 yds. [yards] E. [East] of Achineal Cottage on the
upper side of the road is a hut circle of stone
with walls about 7' thick to 10' at entrance. Int. [Interior] diameter 25'
[Continued on page 195] |
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[Continued from page 194]
entrance towards the NE. [North East]. It has several
small rounded recesses in the interior wall.
In rear of the shepherd's cottage is a hut circle,
a circular enclosure with entrance 5' wide, and
a large group of cairns which I must visit
again. I was much indebted for assis:
:tance to the son of the shepherd Macbeth
who helped me to measure all these circles,
and I was much refreshed by a jug of milk
and bread and butter at the cottage. The
son accompanied me back round the N. [North]
side of Creag Amail to The Mound and
took me to a rock shelter in the E [East] face of the
most northerly shoulder directly above the road
and some 60 ft. [feet] up. It is absolutely hidden
by a large mass of rock which occupies the
front of the platform. The shelter is known
as Macpherson Cham's Cave. (Cham = crooked)
Macpherson being said to have been a free-booter.
[Margin] It is easily recognised from below by the growth of ivy which issuing from the shelter clambers over the rock above.
There are signs of human occupancy in
the soil at the N. [North] end. Mr. Donald McKenzie
told me that a brace of pistols were found
in the shelter some years' ago.
8 July. Writing notes till 11.30. then set off on
my bicycle to Bonar Bridge. On the
road-side near Ospisdale Ho. [House] is a tall
[Continued on page 196] |
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[Continued from page 195]
pointed monolith 11'.2" high above ground. It
is quadrangular in section the sides
measuring 20", 22", 17" and 11". The S. [South] face is
flat and smooth and 5' ft [feet] above the ground a
hole 1 1/4" across and 1 3/4" deep has been drilled in it
about 1" E [East] of the centre. It is called Clach-a-Chara (Scab stone).
About 40 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of Creich Church is a rough
unhewn block with a long-shafted Celtic cross incised on the
[Margin] See Vol. II [Volume 2] p. [page] 43.
NE [North East] face of it. The stone is 6'.10" above ground x 2' wide.
The cross is 4'.3" long, the upper arm 10" across
the side arms 9", the stem 9" till at 1'.7" from
base it contracts to 7" and again swells out at
the foot so as to form a "plinth" 4" deep. The
angles are hollowed & rounded.
At Bonar Bridge I sought out Donald Mac:
:kenzie, obtained much information from him
and saw his various archaeological treasures
which he destines for the Museum. He did
not show me much of interest . There is a
facetted stone ball which I was inclined to
think a forgery from the freshness of the sur:
:face, a number of arrow heads & one good
spear head of flint, the latter found near
Torboll, a celt with holes pierced for
attachment which I think must be from
New Zealand or the South seas, and a small
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[Continued from page 196]
black celt about 2" in length. He showed
me a set of witches stones, 2 of which bore a
marvellous resemblance in form & marking
to birds eggs. These belonged to a woman
reputed a witch who died in 1900. She was
supposed to have compassed by the black art
the death of a woman who married a former
lover of her own five days after her marriage.
There is also in the village of Bonar a
family who claim to have the power of stopping
bleeding at any distance. This power is
only inherent in the eldest member male or
female and is thoroughly believed in..
9th July. Called at the Manse in the morning
Mr. Bentinck produced a triangular slab
of micaceous schist 12" long x 9 1/2" across
the base showing 5 well defined cup marks
and portions of other three at the broken
edge of the stone. Towards the apex of
the triangle is a single cup mark 1 1/8" dia. [diameter] with
another below it 2 1/4" dia. [diameter] x 1/2" deep and where the triangle
broadens a row of three with the other
row parallel at the edge. He has also
[Margin -Sketch inserted]
a stone lamp with a mould for a
chisel like object curved along its length
on the back or underneath side. The cup:
[Continued on page 198] |
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[Continued from page 197]
:marked stone was at the Manse when Mr.
Bentinck came to it two years ago. Though
the glass was falling rapidly we set out on
our bicycles for Carn Leath near Torboll. The
road there is very beautiful, and near Torboll
there are quantities of yellow iris flowering by
the road side. The scenery by the banks
of the Carnachy is lovely. The stream
dashes down in cascades of brown water
over a rocky bed, overhung with
birches and alders while above tower the
hills chequered with fresh green patches
of bracken among the darker masses
of heather. The Minister told me that
in Dornoch lives a woman who has the
gift of stopping bleeding at any distance
from her 'patient' and she is reputed to
have saved the life of a man who was
bleeding to death from mutilation by a
reaping machine. The power is not
hereditary in her case but can be handed
on by her to a male who must in turn
transmit it to a female. He also told
me the tale of how Betsy Splunky came
to haunt the Camore Wood which
few natives will pass after dark. Betsy
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[Continued from page 198]
died of cholera in the early years of last
century and was in consequence refused
burial in the cemetery. Her poor body was
however doubled up, into a tea chest and
deposited on the shore for the tide to
carry away. A crofter seeking driftwood
a short time after was delighted to find a
tea chest and lifting it onto his cart bore
it homeward but when he reached
Camore Wood his curiosity as to the
contents could not be restrained so
breaking open the lid the contracted
corpse of Betsy sprang up and the
crofter fled in terror. Betsy came
again to Camore Wood from whence
she had started and being buried there
haunts it at this day! Before we
had got safely, but not dryly, across the
Carnachy the rain began to fall and soon
was very heavy.
On the S. [South] face of Carn Liath [inserted] - no hill about 1/3 m. [mile] W. [West] of
Torboll and 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of the Carnachy is a
group of cairns rather larger than usual and
made of larger stones - one measures 30' x 16' is
irregular in outline and the stones forming it
are very small as well as very large. Though
[Continued on page 200] |
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[Continued from page 199]
there is no trace of crofts near these cairns are rather
suggestive of gathered stones from cultivated land.
Nearby is a hut circle of ordinary type with its
entrance to the S.E. [South East] and its longest axis in the
same direction, measuring interiorly 26' x 32'. It
is overgrown with heather. The enclosing bank is
about 8' thick. Some 40' N. [North] is another
also entering from SE. [South East] measuring interiorly 17' x 11'
longest axis NW & SE. [North West & South East].
About 300 yds. [yards] to the N. [North] higher up the hill about
the 500' level is another numerous group of
small cairns with a small circle to the S. [South] of the
group. The interior of the bank appears to have been
faced with stone. The entrance has been to
the SE [South East] but its dimensions are indefinite; the interior diameters' 5' x 8'. The
bank 6' across. Numerous small cairns
lie to the NNW. the most conspicuous is circular
about 18' dia. [diameter] and 3'.6" to 4' high.
To the NE [North East] of this group on the summit of
the hill is a large cairn which has been
excavated and the chamber & passage cleared.
It is circular with a diameter of about 60'.
The chamber is entered by a passage from the
SE. [South East] 14'.6" in length and about 2'.4" in width.
Access is through two slabs 1'.6" apart covered by a lintel 3' long
and 7" deep and 2'.6" above the floor level. The
[Continued on page 201] |
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[Continued from page 200]
chamber is bipartite divided by two slabs
about 3" to 5" thick about 2'.6" high and 2'.4" apart.
[Margin] Longest axis NW & SE. [North West & South East]
The outer compartment is roughly rectangular
4'.7" in length by 4'.3" wide, the inner polygonal,
but not very markedly so, 6'.2" long x 5'.4" wide.
The largest slab, on the NE, [North East], is 4'.5" long and
the greatest height in the interior to top of the
highest slab 3'.6". The spaces between the
slabs are filled with horizontal building.
It appeared to me as if the end slab and that
at the NE [North East] from the similarity of the curve
at the points were portions of the same
boulder split. The slabs are thinner than
usual, & 7' in from the outer end of the passage
are two upright stones opposite each other 2'.2" high
2'.5" apart. (Fig.) [Figure].
Immediately to the N. [North] of the large cairn is another group
of small cairns and a hut circle. The latter
measures 8' x 12' and is enclosed by a bank
6' thick. The entrance appears to have been
[Margin Sketch inserted]
towards the N.W. [North West] and to have been narrow. The
S [South] wall projects 7' so as to flank it.
Some 200 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] of the large cairn is a
cairn with a diameter of 37' and 3' to 3'.6" high.
About 40' W. [West] of it is a circular enclosure
with interior diameter of about 25' and an
[Continued on page 202] |
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[Continued from page 201]
[2 sketches with text inserted, transcribed on following page]
1. Plan of chambered cairn - Carn Liath, Torboll.
2. Hut circle - Carn Liath, Torboll. |
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[Continued from page 201]
entrance to the NW [North West] about 7' across. There are also
indications of a narrow entrance towards the
SE. [South East] and of obscure details flanking it. In front
to the N.W [North West] of this enclosure is a low oblong cairn
lying SE and NW [South East and North West] 38' long. 13' broad at SE [South East] end
and 16' at NW. [North West].
Some 200 yds. [yards] SSW. [South South West] of the large cairn at the
NW [North West] end of Carn Liath is a well defined
circular enclosure with walls of stone
about 6' thick faced towards the interior
with flat sided boulders set contiguously
The interior diameter is 37' ft. [feet]. The entrance
is towards the SE. [South East]. Flanking it on the S [South] side
is a triangular chamber 10' long and 4' to 4'.6"
in width entered from the passage at about
4' from the exterior through an opening 1' to 1'.3"
wide. The wall on the opposite side of the
main entrance is 7' thick. In the interior
to the E [East] of the entrance is a small enclosure
set off with boulders abutting on the wall
interiorly 4' long x 3' wide. From the S. [South]
side of the circle an old ruined wall runs
S. [South] for a few yards and then curves away
E' [East]wards round the flank of the hill (Fig) [Figure].
At the extreme end of Carn Liath or rather
on the lowest slope of An Droighneach at its
[Continued on page 203] |
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[Continued from page 202]
extreme E. [East] end lies an oval cairn with its
longest axis SE and NW. [South East and North West] measuring 60' x 49'.
Though much excavation has been done
on it neither cist or chamber is exposed.
A group of small cairns lies to the SE. [South East].
We had a wet walk through brackens and
heather to our bicycles which we had left
beneath the birches by the river and then
a comfortless ride home in our wet clothes.
10th July. Bicycled up the Evelix to visit the hut
circle marked on the hill side near Crockan.
There is quite a good road the whole way, and
the wild flowers, Burnet roses, Butterfly and sweet
scented pink Orchises all very beautiful.
Dornoch No. 11
On the E. [East] side of Strath Acha Bhataich nearly
1/2 m. [mile] N. [North] of the confluence of the (?) Achvaich Burn and
Evelix, on the SW. [South West] slope of Creag Liath is a small
scattered group of cairns, on a slight eminence
a hut circle of the ordinary type with entrance
to the S. [South] but its outline too indefinite to make
accurate measurement possible. The entrance
appears to have been from 4' - 5' wide.
[Margin sketch inserted]
Some 60 yds. [yards] to the NNW. [North North West] of it is a low artificial mound
oval, or kidney shaped, containing an
enclosure on the top of it, 13' long x 9' wide
opposite the entrance which is towards the SE. [South East].
[Continued on page 204] |
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[Continued from page 203]
[Photograph with text inserted, transcribed overleaf] - Earls' Cross, Dornoch |
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[Continued from page 203]
Dornoch No. 18
The thickness of the enclosing bank is about 5'.
At Dalchiel near Fleuchary 3 m. [miles] E.NE. [East North East] of Dornoch
on a piece of waste land between the road and
the Erelix are a small cairn and traces of circular
enclosures in its vicinity. Lunched at home for
the first Saturday for a long time. In the
afternoon J. [Jocelyn], Elize, and I walked along the links to
the N. [North] of the town. Rather more than 1/2 m. [mile]
N.E. [North East] of the town and about 350 yds. [yards] from the shore
is situated the Thane's Cross, stated to have been
erected there as a memorial of the battle of
Embo fought about 1245 in which William E [Earl] of Suther:
:land defeated the Danes. It is a tall shaft
which has been broken and is now clamped
with iron expanded at the head
whereon rests a triangle of stone, open
in the centre probably a fragment of the
original cross. The extreme length is 7'.3 1/2"
The edges of the shaft are chamfered and
at 4'.1" above the ground is a projecting band
10" deep, relieved on the E. and W [East and West] faces with a
shield, that on the E [East] charged with three stars
of 5 points (2 and 1) for the E [Earl] of Sutherland
that on the W. indecipherable. The breadth of
the shaft is 1'.6" its thickness 8 1/2". The cross
faces E. & W. [East & West]. It is now enclosed within an iron railing
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[Continued from page 204]
Dornoch No. 20
About 1 1/2 m. [miles] NNE [North North East] of Dornoch on a stretch of waste
land overgrown with whins to the W [West] of the railway
are the remains of a circular cairn with a diameter of some 44' which
has been excavated. Near the centre a cist
has been exposed, formed of 4 flat slabs, 4" to 5"
in thickness set on edge, measuring interiorly
3'.5" in length, 2'.4" in width and 1'.10" in depth.
The slab which still partially covers it is some
6' in length x 2'.4" across the centre and 6" thick.
It is of sandstone and presents a crescentic
outline on its S. [South] edge, which may have been
caused by a fracture when the cist was
opened. On the underside of this stone
at its W. [West] end is a well defined cup mark
about 2 1/2" across and 3/4" deep. Some 2 1/2"
to the S. [South] of the cup a shallow groove runs
along the centre of the stone from its W [West] end for about 23"
curving at its E. [East] extremity towards the S. [South].
There are a number of small hollows
on both surfaces which seem to be natural.
12th July. On the W. [West] side of the Westmost of the two
tracks which lead N. and S. [North and South] across the Harriet
Plantation and some 200 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the road
past Lednabirichen is a small circular
enclosure surrounded by the base of a wall
outlined on both faces with boulders. The
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[Continued from page 205]
walls are 3'.6" thick; the interior about 3' diameter,
the entrance from the South through a passage 3' long
and 13" to 16" wide.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10
Some 400 yds [yards] into the wood on the W. [West] side of the
track is a circular cairn with diameter of about 56' and
from 5' to 6' high. It has been broken into
in several places but neither cist nor chamber
is exposed.
About 16' to the N. [North] lies another circular cairn
with diameter of about 36' and height of
about 3'.6". It has been opened up in places
but neither cist nor chamber is exposed.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 19.
The hut circle at the W. [West] end of the Lochs'
plantation near Proncycroy is no longer recognis:
:able.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 2
On the summit of a mound 12'-15' high which has a
somewhat artificial appearance occupying
the N. [North] extremity of a ridge which runs N' [North]wards
from Proncy farm buildings are the frag:
:mentary remains of Proncy Castle. Near
the centre of a circular enclosure of about
100' diameter surrounded by a rampart
or wall with traces of buildings on its inner
side, there has been a rectangular keep measur:
:ing interiorly some 20' from NE to SW [North East to South West] and 12'
wide with walls from 5' to 6' thick. The ruin
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[Continued from page 206]
is overgrown with grass save a detached
mass of masonry lying to the S. [South] of it. The entrance
to the enceinte appears to have been from the S. [South].
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14
The remains of a cairn at the E. [East] end of the
Harriet plantation are so slight as to be negligable.
It was very hot and the flies in these planta:
:tions most troublesome. Bicycling N' [North]ward for
a mile or two we reached Skelbo wood where
the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] marks numerous remains. The
wood has been recently replanted and
among the young spruce and larch trees
and heather up to ones knees it was
almost impossible to find the cairns &c.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 25
The Broch near the centre of the wood on
a slight knoll to the E. [East] of the path which
crosses the wood from N. to S. [North to South] on a situ:
:ation commanding a fine view of Loch
Fleet, and the adjacent shore. It is now
a structureless mass of ruins in great
measure overgrown with grass and planted
over with trees! Neither face of the wall
is visible. The diameter over all appears
to be about 60 ft. [feet]. At about 17' distant from
its base the broch has been surrounded
by a rampart or wall now entirely overgrown
Towards the NE. [North East] it has
[Continued on page 208] |
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[Continued from page 207]
crossed by walls 37' apart and has receded further
from the broch so as to form an enclosure 37' long
by 20' wide. To the E. [East] of this enclosure a break
in the rampart and the levelling up of the hollow
in rear of it suggest the position of the entrance
to the broch.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13
The remains of the cairn in the thick
undergrowth & trees we were unable to find.
The O.S. [Ordnance Survey] marks many "tumuli" which seem
to be of the ordinary class.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1.
Skelbo Castle occupies an imposing site
overlooking Loch Fleet at the edge of a high
bank. The castle is a complete ruin &
only of the N. [North] wall does any considerable portion
remain. It has occupied the N.W [North West]
corner of a walled enclosure and has
been a rectangular structure measuring
internally 43' from E. to W [East to West] and 29'.6" from
N. to S. [North to South] with walls 4'.9" in thickness. The S. [South]
walls stand to a height of about 20'.
The wall of the enclosure which is 4'.6"
in thickness in great measure remains
standing. Abutting on the S.W [South West] end of the
castle has been a range of buildings now
completely ruined. The castle belonged to
the family of Sutherland, Lord Duffus.
[Continued on page 209] |
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[Continued from page 208]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15.
At Coul I parted with Mr Bentinck and
went in search of the cairn and hut
circle near the farm. The latter is not
visible and of the former the remains
are no longer of any moment. The good
lady who farms the place invited me in
to rest and refreshed me with milk.
13th July. With Elize & Cree set out by train at 11.0
for Golspie but when we reached the Mound
the weather was so bad and the outlook
so unpromising that we returned. In
the afternoon with Cree, Rev. [Reverend] Bentinck I visited
Camore Wood. Among the trees
a short distance SE. [South East] of the E. [East] end of the
loch is a standing stone. It is a large
monolith of sandstone roughly quadran:
:gular at base tapering to a point at its upper
extremity. It is 8'.9" in height above
the ground, 29" across the W [West] face at base,
and 22" on the N. [North].
Some 650 yds. [yards] WSW [West South West] of the W [West] end of the loch
and about 1/4 m. [mile] SE. [South East] of Evelix, on a slight elevation
about 100 yds [yards] within the wood is a cairn
Excavation has been made about its centre
and several cartloads of stone at a compara:
:tively recent date have been removed from
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[Continued from page 209]
its W [West] side but neither chamber nor cist have actually
been exposed, though about 19' in from the circum:
:ference on the E. [East] there has been uncovered the head of
a large slab 3'.9" long & about 9" thick lying
E and W. [East and West]. The cairn has been circular with
a diameter of about 47' and its greatest height
is about 5'.
Some 300 yds [yards] SE. [South East] of the cairn near the centre of
the wood at the edge of a clearing is a hut
circle of the usual type except at its
entrance. It measures interiorly 30' x 34'
with entrance from the SE. [South East]. The enclosing
banks have been from 5'.6" to 6" in thickness
except at the entrance where they have been
extended outwards for 10' or 11'. The present
width of the entrance is 9' but a tree has
been planted in the centre of it and it appears
to have been in part dug out.
On the top of a knoll about 300 yds [yards] S. [South] is a
circular enclosure 28' Int. [Interior] diameter, with
banks about 6' thick, and entrance from the
NE [North East] 6' wide. The interior has been hollowed out
to some extent and in the centre is about
3' below the top of the bank.
There are several small cairns & remains
of a few ordinary hut circles about the wood
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[Continued from page 210]
at this part but the undergrowth of heather
& the planting have obscured the details.
There are four enclosures noted on the
O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map in the E. [East] half of the wood
as hut circles, which have more the ap:
:pearance of cattle enclosures. Their interior
diameters are about 40' the banks 5' thick
the entrance, from various directions, 7' - 8' wide.
Much damage is done to all constructions
in woods from planting trees on the top
of them.
14th July. Bicycled to Clashmore & called
on Mr. Hardie the Skibo factor who told
off Macdonald the forester to show me the
various objects on the estate.
In a field immediately to the W. [West] of the
school and about 120 yds [yards] N. [North] of the high road
are three large slabs which appear to have
formed the end and part of one side of a megalithic
chamber in the interior of cairn a portion
of which still remains. The main axis of
the chamber has been SE and NW. [South East and North West]. The slab
which has apparently formed the back wall
is 5'.9" across at base, 1'.7" thick & 6'.3" high
from ground level. The two slabs remaining
on the SE [South East] side are 5'.3" and 12'.7" distant from
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[Continued from page 211]
[Sketch inserted here]
the back slab, and are
4'.3" and 5'.8" broad at base.
On the NW [North West] side 8'.3"
distant from the back slab
& 11' from the stone opposite
the head of a large stone lying in the direction
of the chamber protrudes a few inches from the
ground. The cairn has been removed to
such an extent that its outline is not obtainable
but in rear of the side stones it is still 3' - 4' high.
[Margin] Creich
In the Coille Poll na H'Airde the wood which
lies to the N. [North] of Newton Point are many hut-
-circles and tumuli.
Some 200 yds [yards] NE [North East] of the pier is a hut circle of
ordinary type with its entrance from the SE. [South East]
measuring 39' x 45'. The entrance is about
7' across but there is a tree stump in the
middle of it rendering its original dimensions
uncertain.
Some 30 yds [yards] NNW [North North West] of the last is a long low
cairn overgrown with blaeberries lying NNW [North North West] &
SSE, [South South East], measuring 49' x 15' and about 2' high.
Whether this is sepulchral or not it is
impossible to say.
About 50 yds. [yards] E. [East] of the hut circle is a cairn
lying E and W. [East and West] measuring 22' x 15'.
Another about 100 yds [yards] E. [East] of the circle is
circular with a diameter of about 22'
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[Continued from page 212]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 28.
The hut circle noted on the map, about
1/4 NE [North East] of the end of Newton Point is of the ordinary
type with entrance from the SE. [South East] about 2' across
interior diameter 27' x 31', banks from 5' to 6' wide.
A number of small round cairns lie in
its vicinity.
On the N. [North] side of the clearing near the centre
of the wood is a cairn lying N. and S. [North and South]
measuring 22' x 12' and about 3' in height
About 50 yds. [yards] N. [North] are the remains of a hut
circle.
Some 300 yds [yards] S. [South] of Redhouse and almost
entirely overgrown with whins are the
remains of a cairn which appears to have
been circular with a diameter of about
57'. The interior and E [East] side at some
remote period have been entirely removed.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 29.
The cairn at the Newton Point has been
excavated and almost completely carted
away for road metal.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 27.
The cairn in the Blackwood near the
shore has been almost entirely removed.
There are two small cairns to W. [West] of it.
In this district the cairns &c have
been much destroyed and only here
and there in the woods do any remain
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these two have suffered considerable damage
from trees having been planted on them.
I have obtained from the Doctor further informa:
:tion regarding the woman in Golspie who
claims the power of stopping bleeding. It seems
She gathers herbs
and muttering a spell over them turns in the direction of the
sufferer. In the parish
of Rogart there lives an old woman who is
believed to have the evil eye with which she can dry
up her neighbours cows or if she looks in the
face of a colley makes it no longer any use for sheep
herding. Only a few weeks ago she is supposed
to have given a demonstration of her powers in
a school board election. She has an aged
husband whose vote had been canvassed &
who after much persuasion consented to
allow himself when the polling day arrived
to be driven to the poll. By some mistake
he was forgotten by the candidate whom he
favoured and though he sat arrayed in
his best clothes from 10.0' to 4.0 no carriage
arrived. So furious grew his dame that
at length she called witchcraft to her aid,
employed "botchach" (?), and produced con:
:fusion by making a "collision" in the
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election three out of the seven candidates
polling the same number of votes!
15th July. J [Jocelyn] ill. Worked at notes all forenoon
and in evening walked with Cree to Evelix to
examine some standing stones at the edge
of a field. They turned out to be the slabs of
a chambered cairn but as it was so wet we
had to postpone measurements & notes till another
day.
16th July. A threatening morning. Trained to the
Mound.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 18
Golspie Par. [Parish]
About 1/4 m. [mile] E. [East] of the Mound station in a
young plantation of larch trees between the
road and the railway is a hut circle. It
is circular with an interior diameter of 35'
and entrance from SE. [South East]. The enclosing bank
is about 6' thick except on either side of the
entrance where it expands to 10'. The breadth
of the entrance is not obtainable.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15
About 1 1/2 m. [miles] E.N.E [East North East] of The Mound Station
to the E [East] of the row of cottages above the wood
at Kirkton Quarry is an earth house.
It is 37' in length cruciform in plan with
a chamber opening out of the main gallery
on either side. In direction it runs NNW. [North North West] and
SSE. [South South East] following the slope of the hill. Access is
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[Continued from page 215]
obtained to it at the N [North] end and down a flight of 6 or 7
steps 1'.7" across, from the top of which
for a distance of three feet the roof has been removed.
The main gallery expands to an extreme
width of 4' before the side chambers are reached
and to a height at the highest point of 6'. On the
E [East] side at 15' from the N [North] extremity of the side wall
is the entrance to a side chamber 3' wide, and 7'.1"
in length, roofed with slabs 4'.11" in height above
the present floor level. The end of the chamber
is rounded and the walls slightly converge upwards.
The intake on the N. [North] side of the entrance to this chamber projects about 1' further into
the interior than that on the opposite side.
At the S. [South] side of the chamber the width of the
main gallery is 3'.4" and it expands to 4'.4"
at its greatest width. At its
S.E. [South East] extremity 12'.10" from the S.[South] side of the entrance
to the E [East] compartment a narrow passage leads
through a doorway to the exterior. On either
side of the doorway are projecting jambs 1'.4" apart,
that on the W [West] side projecting 7" from the passage
wall & that on the E. [East] 3". The width of the passage
beyond them is 1'.6" and at the exterior 1'.8"
and 1'.6" high above present ground level and about
6' in length.
Behind the jambs in the interior 16" from the
roof are square holes for a bar, that on the
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[Continued from page 216]
W. [West] extending 22" into the wall and that on
the E. [East] 17". On the W. [West] side of the main
gallery at about 14' from the N. [North] entrance
is the entrance to a chamber 2'.2" across
The chamber is 7' in length and 3'.5" at widest
4'.11" high, with a roof formed of overlapping slabs.
The intake for the entrance on the S. [South] projects
about 1'.9" beyond the intake on the opposite
side. The interior is indescribably filthy.
The walls are neatly built of thin flat stones,
and the roof is formed of flags.
[Sketch inserted here]
About 1/3 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the cottages above the
quarry at Kirkton on the moor is a hut
circle of ordinary type overgrown & rather
ill-defined. A group of about 1/2 doz. [dozen]
small cairns lie adjacent.
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[Continued from page 217]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14.
Some 30 yds. [yards] N. [North] of the circle where a "tumulus" is
marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map is a cairn elliptical
in outline measuring about 60' x 38' with its
longest axis ENE. and WSW. [East North East & West South West]. About 40' from
the N. [North] end and 18' from the E [East] side is a stone cist
formed of 4 large slabs, the covering slab being
amissing. It lies in the direction of the cairn
and is interiorly 3'.5" long x 3'.1" broad.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 12. (See Vol II [Volume] 2. 38)
At the base of the rocky escarpment of the silver
Rock are a number of recesses or rock shelters
but there is no apparent evidence of human
occupation. Along the base of the rock
to the Eastwards are numerous small cairns.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey 11
On the W. [West] side of the Cumailie Burn about 1/2 m. [mile]
NNW. [North North West] of Culmailie is a well preserved hut circle
overgrown with brackens. The outline of the
bank on the interior is well defined with large
flat faced boulders set on end at irregular
intervals. It is 4'.6" across except on either side
of the entrance where it expands to 7'. The
width of the entrance is about 1'.10" and it opens to the S. [South]. The diameter
of the interior is about 29'.6" x 30'. Two or
three small cairns lie in the immediate vicinity
and a short distance to the NW [North West] there are
about a dozen. About a mile up the
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10
burn is Loch Lundie. On its NE [North East] side near its
[Continued on page 219] |
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[Continued from page 218]
E. [East] extremity and above the road is a hut
circle. It measures interiorly 27' x 31' and
has the entrance from the SE. [South East]. The bank
appears to be about 8' thick and to be
largely formed of turf. The entrance is
ill defined. A few small cairns lie
around and several more lie on the
flank of the hill to the E' [East]ward.
Some 40 yds. [yards] E. [East] is another circle with
its bank much levelled and entrance to
the SE. [South East]. One or two small cairns lie to
the S. [South] of it.
Sme 300 yds. [yards] further along the loch side
is the site of another hut circle now ill-
-defined, and a group of 7 or 8 cairns
about it and on the hill side above.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13.
One or two small cairns lying in the
whins just above the cultivated land about
1/2 W. [West] of Culmailie.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 1
To the W. [West] of Kirkton house in a wood between
the road and the steading is a neglected
graveyard. The farm house is said to
be built on the site of the chapel dedicated
to St. Carden. ? St. Kearnan.
This was the first fine day for some
time and I have enjoyed the company
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[Continued from page 219]
of my friend Cree. The pleasure of the day was
rather marred by our being kept waiting 1 1/4 hours
at The Mound station for a train from the South,
which made it 8.30 ere we got back to Dornoch.
17th July. Motored to Golspie to visit Dunrobin.
To the W [West] of the castle and about 30 - 40 yds [yards] West of
the Monument to the Duchess of Sutherland on the
top of gravelly knoll about 2'.2" below the surface
is a stone cist the E [East ] end of which has been
removed. It lies with its longest axis E. & W. [East & West]
and is formed of three slabs and a cover. The
internal dimensions are 4' long, 2'.4" wide, & 2'.3" high.
An urn of the beaker class found in it is pre:
:served in the Dunrobin Museum.
We went into the castle to see the old tower.
Very little is visible and there seems nothing
to add to the description in the Cast & Dom. Arch. [Castellated & Domestic Architecture of Scotland]
Standing at the side of the walk which runs
along the top of the banks through the wood
to the E. [East] of the castle is a stone sculptured
with incised symbols. It is 6'.2" in height
above ground, 2'.4" broad at base tapering
slightly to the upper end, and is about 15" thick.
On its S. [South] face is cut a crescent 3'.2" between
the points and 14" across - bearing on its centre
a figure formed of an oval 4 1/2" x 3 1/2" and a
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[Continued from page 220]
small circle of 3 1/2" dia. [diameter] at either end of it.
A spear and sceptre pass anglewise behind
the cres. [crescent] with the ends of their shafts meeting
between the points and their heads protruding
at the back. At the upper end of the stone
is a symbol, probably the "tuning fork", and
at the base another not easily identified
but probably intended for a bird. In
the Museum are several stones noted
in the Early Christian Monuments.
It was a lovely day and we (Cree, Elize & I)
enjoyed the ramble through the grounds.
The winters must be mild for we saw the
Aurelia and other shrubs flourishing out of
doors that would not live in Roxburghshire.
We walked along the shore to the broch,
Carn Liath. This broch has been thoroughly
cleared out, described & planned. There is
probably nothing to add to it. The encircling
wall may be compared with that surround:
:ing the broch in Skelbo Wood. There appears
to have been a scarcement 6" to 8" broad, formed by a res:
:triction of the thickness of the wall about
6' from present floor level. Inside the door
jamb in the passage 2'.2" below the roof are
square holes for the bar that on the S. [South] 21" into
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[Continued from page 221]
[2 photographs with text inserted, transcribed on following page] -
1. Stone Circle at The Mound
2. Carn Liath Ent. [Entrance] from interior. |
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[Continued from page 221]
[Photograph with text on reverse inserted, transcribed on following page] - Stone circle at 'The Mound' |
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[Continued from page 221]
the wall that on the N. [North] 15". On the lintel stone
of the outer cross passage I could only observe
two cup marks. Returned by train.
19th July. A fine day. Elize left. We all travelled to:
:gether to the Mound.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9
About 1/2 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the Mound station and
about 30 yds. [yards] above the road are the remains
of a stone circle. Three stones are standing,
two are prostrate and one is awanting. The
diameter has been about 22 ft. [feet]. The stones are
set with their broad faces in line of the circum:
:ference. The highest stone is about 6' high,
6'.6" across base and 1' thick. The circle
has been planned &c. (see Pro. S of A S ). [Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 8
About 1 m. [mile] NW. [North West] of the Mound station on the top of
the bank above the road to the W [West] of the burn
at Aberscross are the remains of a large cairn.
The interior of it has been entirely removed at
no distant date and neither trace of chamber
nor cist exists. It has been of
somewhat unusual form appearing to have
had a single projecting horn towards the
NNW. [North North West]. The outline of the cairn, as well as
of the projection, has been marked with large
boulders, from 2' - 3' in length and 1 1/2' to 2' high
many of which still remain in situ. The
[Continued on page 223] |
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[Continued from page 222]
diameter from E to W. [East to West] has been about
80' and from N to S. [North to South] 78' while from NNE [North North East]
to S.S.W [South South West] along the projection it is 95'. The
displacement of the stones on the S. [South] make
the details at that point obscure.
Some 40 yds [yards] E [East] of the cairn is a circular
construction which I believe to be a
ruined lime kiln. It is built of stones & earth
& the diameter increases as the walls rise.
(For further particulars see notes).
[Margin] Unnoted
At the N. [North] of Creag Mhor on a flat to the
W [West] of Loch a Vicair & to the E [East] of the Allt is a large group of
small cairns. At the W. [West] end of the group
are the remains of a hut circle, only a
portion of the bank on the W. [West] remains the
rest has entirely disappeared. Around it
lie numerous small cairns. One cairn
towards the S. [South] more conspicuous than
its neighbours measures 20' in diameter
At the upper side of the flat about 100 yds [yards]
S.W. [South West] of the hillock that rises at the N. [North] end of
it is a more important cairn. Its
outline has been carefully defined with
large contiguous boulders from 2' to 3' in
length & as much as 2' in height. On the
N. [North] they are awanting but appear to have been
[Continued on page 224] |
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[Continued from page 223]
used in the construction of a small enclosure
abutting on the cairn at that point. The cairn is
circular with a diameter of about 35'. It has
been excavated for about 1' of its depth but neither
cist nor chamber has been exposed. It is about
4' in height.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7.
At the S. [South] end of Aberscross hill at an elevation
of about 450' above the sea on the slope above
the burn is a hut-circle. It measures 37'.6"
across x 38'.6" in length towards the
entrance which faces S. [South].
[Sketch inserted here]
The bank has been faced
on the interior with large
flat stones and there is a
marked absence of stones on
the outer circumference & in the centre of the
bank. The bank has been about
3'.6" thick in the circumference expanding
to 8' on either side of the entrance. At 2'.9"
inward from the entrance the base of a wall 2'.10"
wide runs towards the back of the enclosure
for about 21' where it is met by a wall
curving round from either side thus dividing
the enclosure into 3 main compartments.
Where the back compartment was entered from
is not apparent. In the compartment to the E [East]
[Continued on page 225] |
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[Continued from page 224]
of the entrance there are indications of further
subdivision, at the S. [South] end, but the details are indefinite.
About 50 yds [yards] to the E. [East] is another hut circle
but it is much dilapidated.
A group of tumuli lie around.
All along the face of the hill to the Northward
at about the 500' Contour line are numbers
of small cairns of the usual type. To
the E. [East] of one cairn in the hollow above the
hut circles is a setting of stones oval in outline
measuring interiorly 6'.10" x 3'.5" lying N.W & SE. [North West & South East]
with three large stones lying in the centre.
It presents more the appearance of a
grave than a cairn. The stones are about
8" to 10" across. There are remains of a croft not far off.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6.
On the W. [West] flank of Aberscross Hill is a
large group of cairns of usual type. Among
them is one in appearance two cairns
joined by a low neck about 3' long, lying E & W [East & West].
The whole length of the construction about 25',
the breadth of the cairns about 12' (see cairns
in Strath Naver p. [page] [--])
To the E [East] of the burn and almost due E [East] of
the last group of cairns to the N. [North] of Aberscross
is a small hut circle. Int. dia. [Interior diameter] about 12'
Ent. [Entrance] from NE. [North East]. The features towards the entrance
[Continued on page 226] |
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[Page] 226
[Continued from page 225]
are obscure but on the E [East] the bank appears to pro:
:ject for about 6' beyond the opposite side making
it 11'.6" wide on the E. [East] side and about 5'.6 on the
other.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 5
On the hill above the birch wood abt. [about] 100 yds [yards] distant from it to the
E [East] of Morvich House is a circular enclosure
with an interior diameter of about 35'.6". The
banks are 4' across, the entrance to the NE [North East] - 4' wide
A number of small cairns lie around it - one
only 8' to the E. [East].
Towards the upper part of the hill about 1/2 m. [mile]
E. [East] of Morvich Ho. [House] is a ruined cairn in the
centre of which a very small cist is exposed
It is formed of flat sided stones. The longest axis
lies NE and SW. [North East and South West]. The SW [South West] end is ruined. The apparent
length has been about 2'.6" and the breadth 1'.5".
There are single slabs at the NE [North East] and N.W [North West] sides and
two on the S.E. [South East] side. The diameter of the cairn
has been about 31'. It is now quite low in
elevation.
Some 50 yds [yards] to the S. [South] is another cairn the
circumference of which has been marked with
large boulders. The diameter has been about 25'.
An excavation has been made in the centre
and a built polygonal cist measuring about 2'.10"
either way has been exposed. The bottom of it
[Continued on page 227] |
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[Continued from page 226]
is about 14" from the surface. The cairn is quite
low. On the higher ground to the N. [North] of the
cairns lie a number of small cairns of
the usual type.
On the top of the cliff to the S. [South] of Aberscross
is a circular enclosure the outline of
which is indefinite.
20th July. A wet morning, wrote up notes till 11.30
then set out on foot towards Clashmore.
On the S. [South] side of the road about halfway between
it and the river at the edge of the wood about
1/4 W. [West] of Evelix, are the remains of a chambered
cairn. The cairn which has been almost
entirely removed has been circular with a
diameter of about 68'. Several of the slabs
used in the construction of a large bipartite
chamber remain. The chamber has had its main
axis WNW and ESE. [West North West and East South East]. The back slab at the WNW [West North West] end has gone,
of the inner compartment, two opposite slabs
remain, about 8'.5" apart, the slab on the W. [West] slightly
tilted backwards, 4' across base - that on the E. [East] 5' across
base, 3'.6" high, & 2'.7" thick. Only one of the
partition stones remains, viz. that on the W. [West]
side, the front half of which is flat along the
top at 1'.9" above ground, the outer end rising to
3'. Of the outer compartment two side slabs
[Continued on page 228] |
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[Continued from page 227]
remain about 4'.4" apart. They measure 2'.10" and
3' across the base respectively & are each about 2'.6" above ground. That on the W. [West] is 2' distant from
the divisional stone and about 17' in from the outer
edge of the cairn. In rear of the chamber
several large stones protrude as if forming the
back and two sides of another chamber, facing the
S. [South]. The side slabs in this case standing anglewise to the
back slab.
Dornoch
[Margin] Unnoted
About 1m [mile] NW. [North West] of the factor's office at Clashmore
on the E [East] side of the track thro' Clashmore Wood,
is a cairn. It is circular with a diameter of
about 60', a height of about 7', and, though
considerably demolished, neither chamber nor
cist has been exposed.
Some 100 yds. [yards] NW. [North West] is a hut circle with its entrance
from the SSE. [South South East] measuring interiorly 33'.6" x
35'.6". The enclosing bank is about 6' wide
[Sketch inserted here]
[Continued on page 229] |
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[Continued from page 228]
broadening gradually from about 17' towards
the entrance to a width of 13'.6". There are
indications of the existence of a chamber on
the W [West] side of the passage. The entrance is from
the SSE. [South South East]. A tree planted on the E [East] side prevents
the width of the passage being ascertained.
A number of well preserved small cairns
lie around, one actually abutting on the bank
towards the E. [East]. About 50 yds [yards] NW. [North West] is a well
preserved specimen measuring 20' in diameter
and about 3' in height.
Through the wood to the NW. [North West] are numerous
small cairns.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 16
The OS. [Ordnance Survey] marks a hut circle about 3/4 m. [mile]
W. [West] of the large cairn but as the wood was
thick and the heather deep it seemed an
almost hopeless task looking for it.
Striking N. [North] we passed an open glade and
saw several fine stags feeding among the
trees beyond. Emerging from the wood to
Dornoch
[Margin] Unnoted
the W [West] of the highest croft at Astel we followed
the track up the Crask as directed by Mac:
:donald the Skibo forester. Along the
ridge which runs towards the S.E. [South East] at an
elevation of from 400' to 500', are numerous
cairns, several circular enclosures and
[Continued on page 230] |
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[Continued from page 229]
indistinct remains of ancient walls. Some
400 yds [yards] NW [North West] of the last cottage in Astel are two
circular enclosures almost contiguous. That
to the W. [West] is of the usual type with entrance
from the SSE [South South East] (Fig 1) [Figure 1]. It measures interiorly 36' x 38'.
The bank is 7'.6" thick and gradually widens
towards the entrance where it measures 14'.6" along
the line of the passage. The entrance appears
to be about 1'.4" wide. The slope of the
hill is towards the entrance and the back
of the enclosure has been excavated so as
to render the floor level. There is little sign
of the bank on the upper side.
[2 sketches inserted here]
The enclosure adjoining is 9'.6" distant. It
is circular with an interior diameter of
about 43', and has the entrance from the
SSE [South South East] about 5' across. The bank which is
much broken appears to have been about
[Continued on page 231] |
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[Continued from page 230]
7' thick. About half a doz. [dozen] cairns lie in
the immediate neighbourhood of these enclosures.
Some 400 yds. [yards] NNE [North North East] of the last house at Astel
are the ruins of a circular enclosure (Fig 2) [Figure 2]. It is
of pear shaped form measuring about 31'.6"
x 35' with the main entrance probably from the N.E. [North East].
Like the enclosures near Achnael the wall
has built more of stone and has evidently
been higher. It appears to have been divided
into three main compartments by stone
walls. At about 14'.6" from the E [East] end the
base of a wall about 8' thick, crosses it from N to S. [North to South] and
is joined by a wall running inward from the
N [North] side of the entrance about 5'.6" wide. The
compartment formed on the S. [South] appears to
have been about 9' from N to S [North to South] and 10' from
E to W. [East to West]. That on the N. [North] about 10' from N. to S. [North to South]
The wall appears to have been from 7' - 8' thick.
Owing to the amount of stone in the interior
from the ruined wall the details are obscured.
There are indications of separate entrances
through the wall into each chamber.
There are no cairns in its immediate vicinity.
21st July. Train to Rogart where I parted company
with Cree returning to Grantown. A house
stands on the site of the stone circle at Pittentrail
[Continued on page 232] |
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[Continued from page 231]
Bridge. The valley of the Garbh Allt is very beautiful
and there is a profusion of wild roses in bloom
among the birch trees by its banks.
Rogart.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 16. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 13.
Of the cairn near Reidchalmai I could find not a
trace - nor of that to the E [East] of the bridge at Little Rogart
either. Striking N' [North]ward up a steep path over a hill
and through an open birch wood beyond I reached
Achnagarron on the edge of a wide expanse of moor.
Some 100 yds [yards] NE. [North East] of the W' [West]most croft on the
upper part of the N [North] slope of the rising ground
are 2 standing stones, which look as if they
might have been members of a stone circle.
They stand about 95' apart in a direction pointing
70º E of N. [East of North]. The most Easterly stands about 5' high
is about 2'.6" wide at base - squarish in section
& pointed to the upper end. (An old crofter told
me he had attempted to undermine it in his
youth looking for a pot of gold and had
tilted it slightly from the perpendicular.) The second
stone is about 4'.8" high, about 2'.3" across the
base & is also pointed.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7.
All along the ridge to the N [North] of the crofts
at about the 500' level are scattered small cairns.
They are of the usual type, one lying N & S. [North & South] measures
14' x 9'.
Towards the E. [East] end of the ridge and E [East] of
[Continued on page 233] |
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[Continued from page 232]
most of the cairns is a hut circle entering
[Sketch inserted here]
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 7.
from the SE. [South East] measuring
interiorly 31' x 40', and
containing in the interior
a smaller circle abutting
on the S. [South] side and entering
from the main entrance
measuring 17' x 21', with
bank 3'.6" thick. There
appears to have been a passage into the back
of the main enclosure between the ends of the
two circles on the E. [East]. The bank of the main enclosure
is 5'.6" thick in the circumference and 9' thick
on S. [South] side of entrance on the E [East] side of the
entrance it projects SE [South East] 6' beyond the opposite
side. The entrance passage is 6' wide in the
interior - that between the two banks considerably
less & seemingly about 3'. In the middle of the
circumference at the back is a large flat
stone about 2'.6" high set with its face across the bank and
there are indications of a narrow entrance
into the back enclosure to the E. [East] of it. The
bank on the N. [North] of the circle is still about 2' high
[Margin] Unnoted
On the N. [North] slope of a low hill to the E. [East] of Torbuie
is a large group of small cairns.
Some 100 yds [yards] NE. [North East] of it are the remains of a
[Continued on page 234] |
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[Continued from page 233]
hut circle of ordinary type with entrance from the
SE. [South East] and a group of 10 - 12 small cairns lie near.
One cairn lies directly opposite the entrance and
within 20' of it.
Some 30' SW. [South West] of the entrance is a long low
cairn lying N & S. [North & South], measuring 27' x 16' and
tapering to each end, 2'.6" high.
About 40' S. [South] is another not quite so high lying
N & S. [North & South] and measuring 22' x 9'.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 14.
On the top of the hill immediately N. [North] of Skiag
and at about the 500' level is a large group
of small cairns. On the E [East] flank are
situated two hut circles. The larger of the
two measures interiorly about 33' x 34' with
the entrance from the SE. [South East], about 4' across. The
bank is about 8' across expanding to 11' on the
S [South] of the entrance. On the E [East] side the bank
flanks the entrance for 14' and is 9' broad
at the SE [South East] end.
On the E. [East] to the outside
it is some 3'.6" high. The Interior
is raised about the level
of the ground outside.
[Sketch inserted here]
Some 30' S. [South] is another of
smaller dimensions measuring interiorly 18' x 15' with
an entrance from the SE. [South East] about 3'.6" across.
[Continued on page 235] |
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[Continued from page 234]
The enclosing bank is some 6' thick and
projects 10' E' [East]ward on the NE [North East] of the entrance.
Some 40' E. [East] is a large enclosure formed of
large boulders laid in courses and mounded up
on the exterior. The wall still stands 3' high at
the N [North] end. This I consider a cattle enclosure
of later date. The entrance SE [South East] abt. [about] 8' wide.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 15.
On Skiag the cairns lie in great numbers
over the top and W. [West] flank of the hill from
the 500' to 600' elevation, over an area about
1/2 m. [mile] square. They are almost all circular
of the usual type. Some are laid against
earthfast boulders. One about 1/3 m. [mile] ENE [East North East] of
the parish church lies with its longest axis
NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East] measuring 29' x 18' and 1 1/2' to 2' high.
Some 40' N [North] of it is a construction forming a
semi-oval enclosure facing E. [East] 17' across
the open end & 11' deep, enclosed by low banks
5' - 6' across and with a cairn like mound
18' long & 16' broad in rear of it (Fig). [Figure]
[Sketch inserted here]
22nd July. Trained to
Rogart & bicycled to Blarich.
Mr. Menzies senior, had his
various curiosities arranged
for my inspection. They
[Continued on page 236] |
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[Continued from page 235]
included a stone cup with a perforated handle
and a small brass or bronze bell of modern shape
about 1 1/2 in height obtained from a crofter at Balclaggan.
A very beautifully flaked arrowhead barbed and
tanged found in a field near Blarich & several
dirks, pistols & swords of no particular merit.
He and his son took me in hand to show me the
objects of interest in their vicinity.
About 50 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of the house on the top of
a slight knoll surrounded with large boulders for
the most part placed naturally is a circular
depression about 38' across entering from the
SE. [South East]. There are traces of banks between the
boulders but the indications are slight
About 80 yds [yards] SW. [South West] of Blarich on the top of a
slight eminence is a circular enclosure with
interior diameter of 49', and entrance most prob:
:ably SE. [South East]. The banks have been pillaged and
the details are obscure. Almost abutting on it
is another similar enclosure with interior
dia. [diameter] of about 44' & entrance from the E. [East].
Another which appears to be more of an oval
form lies about 100 yds. [yards] S. [South] of No. 1. Its outline how:
:ever is less distinct. Dr. [Doctor] Joass has pronounced
these round enclosures Danish camps on
what grounds I do not know. The invariably
[Continued on page 237] |
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[Continued from page 236]
wide entrance, frequent proximity to ord. [ordinary]
hut circles and disregard of defensive details
& position are more suggestive of cattle or sheep
folds. Crossing the railway to the
[Margin] Unnoted
S. [South] side of the valley we mounted the ridge
which runs S.E. [South East] from Rossal. All along
the W [West] slope from 400' to 500' above sea level
lies a group of many score of cairns
Locally the hill is known as Cnoc-righ Shonaid
"The hill of King Janet," and as usual the cairns
are considered to be those of warriors
slain in battle. The cairns are well
preserved and the average size is rather
larger than usual in the class. Some are nearly
3' high. One towards the N. [North] side of the centre
of the group is elliptical in outline measuring
29' x 20' and about 4' in height. Its longest
axis lies NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East]. Another near the
top of the ridge is circular with a diameter
[Margin] (cf. pp. [pages] 223, 226)
of about 23' and height of 3'. The remains of
an outline of boulders 2' - 3' long and 1 '- 2' high
is apparent on its outline towards the S. and W. [South and West].
Another cairn towards the N. [North] side of the
upper end of the ridge measures 40' x 17' lies
with its longest axis NNW and SSE. [North North West and South South East]. At the
S. [South] side of its Southern extremity are the
[Continued on page 238] |
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[Continued from page 237]
foundations of a small circular enclosure
with an interior diameter of about 10', and an
entrance to the NW. [North West] about 6'.6" wide. The wall seems
to have been built of material pillaged from the cairn
Its width is not ascertainable.
At the upper end of the ridge on its Northern slope and
about 1 m [mile] SSW. [South South West] of Blarich is a hut circle of the
usual type with its entrance from the SE. [South East]. It is
overgrown with heather and its outline is indefin:
:ite. Some 40 yds. [yards] W [West] of it is a low circular mound meas:
:uring about 22' over all with a circular depression
of about 6' diameter in the centre entering from
the N.W. [North West]. At the lower or N. [North] end of the
ridge, near Rossal on the E. [East] bank of the Achnael
burn are the remains of several hut circles.
One is almost circular measuring 27' x 28'
towards the entrance which is from the SE. [South East].
The bank is about 6'.6" wide and is much eroded.
There appears to have been little stone in it.
To the NW. [North West] lie two others apparently contiguous
entering from the SE. [South East] but too indefinite to measure.
The slight remains of hut circles in the banks of
which there has been an absence of stone, per:
:haps to some extent accounts for their non-
-existence in certain groups of small cairns.
On a piece of common between the crofts at
[Continued on page 239] |
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[Continued from page 238]
Rossal on the E. [East] of the burn are the ruins of
an oval enclosure which has been surrounded
by a wall from 3' - 4' thick. It has measured
40' across and 57' towards the entrance which
is about 4' wide. This I think has been a cattle
fold. This has been an easy day as
Mr. Menzies entertained me hospitably to lunch
and tea.
23rd July. Bicycled to Ospisdale and walked N. [North]
through the woods and past the crofts at Bard:
:nabeinne to Gablon a small crofter settlement
to the E [East] of Acharry Moor. Here on the first
ridge of the moor to the N. [North] of the woods is a group
of about a dozen small cairns of the usual
type. To the W. [West] of the group on
the crest of a ridge between ravines
are the remains of a hut circle of the usual
type with an entrance from the SE. [South East]. The
banks are so effaced as to make accurate
measurement impossible.
Returning to my bicycle at Ospisdale farm
I rode on for Spinningdale and picked up
the Skibo forester near his house.
About 1/2 m. [mile] NW [North West] of Spinningdale Post Office
[Margin] Unnoted
on the E. [East] of the Rhivra burn and some 30 yds [yards]
back the road inside a wood are the
[Continued on page 240] |
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[Page] 240
[Continued from page 239]
remains of a large circular cairn much dilapidated
and overgrown with grass. Its diameter has been
about 60'. There is no indication of its character.
[Margin] Unnoted
Some 40 yds [yards] to the NE. [North East] are the remains of
another the interior of which has been almost
entirely carted away. The diameter has been
about 90' and the height on the SE [South East] side is still
about 12'. Near the centre a single large upright
slab is exposed for a height of about 3' and suggest
a chambered character for the cairn. The direction
of the chamber being apparently NNE and SSW. [North North East and South South West].
There is an amusing tradition connected with
this cairn. Many hundred years ago the district
was visited by a fell disease, so the inhabitants
formed a huge circle, with a diameter of a
mile or so, round the spot where the disease,
materialised, & it was supposed to be, gradually
closing in on it and making sure it did
not escape. When they reached this spot,
which had been the centre of their circle, the
disease in the form of an animal, was seen
to plunge into the earth and over the place to
prevent its reappearance the cairn was erected.
Northwards, up a beautiful glen crossed by bridges
and very picturesque, one emerges from the
wood to the SE [South East[ of Achu. Near the edge of
[Continued on page 241] |
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[Page] 241
[Continued from page 240]
Creich
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 20.
the wood about 1/3 m. [mile] N. [North] of Rhivra are
two cairns. One lying about 30 yds [yards] from
the road is (?) much dilapidated. It has been
elliptical in outline measuring 35' x 24' with
its longest axis WNW. and ESE. [West North West and East South East]. It is now
only a foot or two in height and neither cist
nor chamber is apparent and is almost level on the top.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 20.
Some 30 yds [yards] NE [North East] of it is a larger cairn
On inspecting it I observed that it was
not round and that there were distinct
indications of horns from four points,
but being in a wood and there being
a great accumulation of humus over
the stones I could not be certain. Further
my attention was arrested by a large
stone lying on its side, resembling in shape
the stones used as lintels in the horned
cairns at Skelpick & Rhinovie and con:
:sidering that this really gave the clue
to the structure we cleared away the stones
in rear of it and saw into the chamber beyond.
The lintel had evidently got displaced
and in rear of it the chamber had got filled
with stones, but the roof still remained intact.
After clearing away a small pile of
boulders recently erected we found the
[Continued on page 242] |
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[Page] 242
[Continued from page 241]
original apex. A number of large flat slabs
from 2' to 3' in length were laid radiating from
a central hole, into which had been firmly
inserted, point downwards, a wedge shaped or pointed
stone about 1 ft. [foot] in length and 8" to 10" diameter
at its thick end acting as a key stone. To:
:wards this point the walls all round had
gradually converged with overlapping stones.
We cleared off enough of the roof to allow us
to work with safety in the chamber. The
chamber to the back was filled with stones
for a foot or two in depth. Realising that
we had started impetuously on a heavy task
we stopped proceedings at this point arranging
to return on Monday when the forester
volunteered the assistance of a couple of
workmen.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 19
About 200 yds [yards] NE ]North East] of Kyleoag at the upper end of an
open area in the wood is a large cairn.
Its exact outline is difficult to determine
but its diameter at right angles to a large triangular
block apparently a lintel is 57' and across the
supposed chamber 50'. On the N.W. and S. [North West and South]
there are indications of projecting horns but
the growth of bracken & other vegetation obscures
details. Towards the S. [South] the horn appears to project
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for about 10' and to be about 15' wide at base.
On the E. [East] a stone dyke has been built close
to the cairn. At 10' in from the edge on
the S. [South] side lies a large block, triangular
in section - 10'.6" in length, about 2' deep & 1 1/2"
across. It lies ENE and WSW [East North East and West South West] so that
if there is a chamber in rear of it. As usual it
lies NNW. and SSE. [North North West and South South East]. The cairn is about 12' high
from W [West] side.
[Margin] Unnoted
About 150 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of Kyleoag House on the
top of a slight ridge about 30' S. [South] of the road
is a cairn entirely overgrown with long
heather. The vegetation obscures the details
but it measures about 40' from N to S. [North to South] and
45' from E to W. [East to West]. In height it is from 8' to 10'.
Its character is not revealed.
On the W. [West] side of the Rhivra burn to the N. [North] of
the road are 2 circular enclosures, that nearest
the burn measuring about 46' Int. dia. [Interior diameter] the
other some 30 yds [yards] W. [West] 35' x 34'. The entrance is
uncertain. These are probably both cattle
pends. It was 7.15 before I got
back to the hotel, about my usual hour.
I have not got home for tea for weeks.
24th. Engaged all morning writing up notes
which had got in arrears. Fortunately it
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has been such a wet day that I could have
done nothing else.
26th July. Returned to the chambered cairn at
Achu and resumed excavation with Macdonald
and two of the estate workmen. Sir Alexander
Kennedy, Mr. Hardie the factor, his wife & Rev [Reverend] Mr.
Bentinck all turned up. When cleared out
the chamber was found to be almost rectangu:
:lar except at the back where building across the
angles joined the side and back slabs.
It was formed of seven large slabs the largest
3'.9" across, 2 on either side, one forming the
back wall and one on either side of the entrance
to support the lintel. The extreme length was
8'.9" extreme breadth 7'. The spaces between
the edges of the slabs was filled with well laid
horizontal building. The main axis is ESE [East South East] and
WNW. [West North West] with the entrance from the ESE. [East South East]. The lintel
stone above the entrance is a three sided block
about 6' long, and 2' thick x 2' across base. The
jambs on which it rested have not been of the
same height that on the S [South] of the entrance being
lower and the additional height required has been
obtained by building on the top of it. This building
appears to have been insufficient and to have
shifted and caused a slight displacement
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of the lintel. This most probably withdrew the
support of a portion of the roof which had fallen
in from the S [South] and filled up the chamber for
3 feet of its height with ruins. The entrance
passage is 2' wide and 4' high at entrance
to the chamber. The height of the chamber at
present with a portion of the roof removed is
6'.9" and to the point from which the roof
begins to converge 4'.6" which is the height
of the back slab. The height of the cairn
previous to excavation was about 8'.
During the course of excavation there was found the remains
of a human skeleton, the bones of which were
in a very friable condition, which lay crushed against
the back wall above the floor, and considerable
portions lay actually in the angle between the
walling and the back slab on the W [West] side.
It seemed as if the fall of the roof had taken
place before the body was decomposed and
it had been swept to the back of the
chamber by the inrush of stones. Owing to
the mass of ruins it was not possible
to clearly define the various strata. The
soil near the top was of a dark peaty colour
probably an infiltration from the surface.
Beneath this was a considerable layer
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of grey sand with numerous white particles in it
which did not appear to be osseous. Beneath this
was a layer of black unctuous matter. Only
one small portion of calcined bone was found.
[Margin] There was also found 1 valve of mussel, a metal disc of a button (modern) and a considerable number of empty cocoons of the emperor moth or some other of same kind brought in by rats, whose [nest] was in one corner)
There also came to light a flint scraper made of
a faulty piece of flint with a hole in it and
a fragment about 2" square of dark reddish
pottery well baked with rather a fine texture,
part of a round vessel with a slightly everted
lip. There was a small
[Sketch inserted here]
amount of charcoal
in the sandy deposit.
The floor was over its greater
part packed with flat
flags laid on the
old natural surface.
There were no remains of
any other burials noted.
All the soil in the chamber was carefully
passed through a half inch riddle. It
was a wet cold day and the rain made
the soil difficult to examine. The bones
were sent, by request to Dr. [Doctor] Simpson, Golspie,
whose report I have not yet heard. They
appeared to be leg bones. The time
taken to clear out the chamber left us
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[Continued from page 246]
no opportunity to examine the structure but I
think that will be done by the forester to whom
I have given directions how to proceed. In the
circumference opposite the entrance I made
a few cuts with a spade through the humus
which covers the base of the cairn and
about 2' in from the edge uncovered a long
stone 6'.4" long and about 1' thick which ap:
:parently covered the outer end of the passage.
I have no doubt that this is a cruciform
cairn. The arms, or horns, are fairly distinct,
project about 16' and are about 20' wide
at base. I hope their outline will be laid bare.
The diameter of the cairn seems to be about
50' - 53'.
27 July. Bicycled towards Creich and met the
forester at Spiningdale. Leaving our
bicycles on the road we climbed up the
steep wooded hill side to look for a tumulus
noted by Donald Mackenzie. On the upper
edge of the Ledmore wood just below an old
enclosure is a heap of stones, but I do not
think they are sepulchral. They seem to be
associated with a triskele walling set about
10' to the E [East] which has probably been a
sheep shelter. Proceeding W [West] along the open
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area above the wood, at about the 500' elevation
towards the W. [West] end of the wood are a number
of small cairns.
Just past the W. [West] end and about 1 m. [mile] N. [North] of the
Dun of Creich is a large cairn. Its diameter
from N. to S. [North to South] is about 47' and from E to W. [East to West] 52'.
This also appears to be a cruciform or horned
cairn. The horn projecting towards the N.W. [North West]
is quite distinct the outline of stones being
clearly visible. It appears to project about
10' and is about 17' broad at base. The
horn to the S.E. [South East] is indicated but excavation
is necessary to establish it. The diameter from
the end of the NW [North West] horn to the SE [South East] is 65'.
At 30' in from the W. [West] side facing E by N [East by North] and
W by S. [West by South] is a broad flat slab 4'.4" across and
to the SW [South West] of it the top of another protrudes at
rt. [right] angles, evidently parts of a chamber.
Against the cairn towards the NE. [North East] are
the foundations of a small rectangular
construction. These buildings formed of and
against cairns at later times I have on
several occasions noticed.
Some 40 yds. [yards] W [West] is a low mound with
a depression in the centre of about 4'.6"
diameter and 15" deep. The enclosing bank of
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stones overgrown with turf is 3' - 4' thick. This
must, I think, have been a kiln.
On the summit of a wooded hill which
projecting into the Dornoch Firth from its
[Margin] 3 1/2 m. [miles] SE [South East]
N. [North] bank about SE [South East] of Bonar Bridge presents
an almost precipitous front to sea-ward
and hardly less accessible slopes on its
N and S [North and South] flanks is situated the Dun of
Creich. The hill attains an altitude of
370' and is easily ascended only along
a narrow ridge from the Westward
culminating in a more rocky summit.
A single rampart of stone encloses an
area of about [--] and the highest portion
of this area which is towards the N. [North] has again
been further fortified by an inner rampart
along the top of the rocky scarp now insignificant
& measures about 167' from E to W [East to West] by 96' from N to S. [North to South].
In the centre of this area and itself enclosed
within a low bank about 10' distant from
its walls are the fragmentary ruins of a
rectangular mortar built structure measuring
18' x 25'. believed to be the castle built by
Paul MacIver in 13 Cent [Century] (See Sir Robert Gordon)
The main rampart of the original construction
is at highest (towards the S. [South]) about 4' high and
12' wide on base. The main entrance has
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up a steep slope from the NE. [North East]. Within the interior
on the N [North] of it is a depression which appears to be round apparently lined
with stone measuring about 12' x 8' and on
the opposite side are indications of another. The
width of the entrance is indefinite and there
is much vegetation in its vicinity which obscures
the details. At the W [West] end of the inner enclosure
is a natural bastion and at the base of this
lies a large mass of wall vitrified throughout.
At the highest point on the S. [South] side of the outer
rampart a partially vitrified stone projects
and on removing portions of the turf in its
immediate vicinity quantities of charcoal
came to light. The rock of the hill is a reddish
mecaceous schist. Towards the S. [South] there
appears to have been another entrance of less
importance. The ramparts are much
overgrown with turf.
After descending from the dun, I parted com:
:pany with Macdonald and set off towards
Bonar Bridge to meet Donald Mackenzie. I
found him waiting for me at the W. [West] end of
the Swordale wood.
About 300 yds. [yards] S. [South] of Ordan farm within the
Swordale wood and opposite the SE [South East] corner
of the arable land is a hut circle much
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effaced, with entrance apparently from the SE. [South East].
It seems to have been of the usual form. Some
30' E. [East] are the delapidated remains of another
probably circular but details now indefinite.
A small group of tumuli lies around and there
are more up the wood to the N. [North].
On the W [West] side of the old crofter enclosure near
the fence about [--] yds. [yards] S.E. [South East] of Ordan and
S. [South] of the old road to Little Swordale is a small
group of cairns and a much effaced hut
circle of ordinary type. Within the Clabran
Sallach near its N. [North] end appear to be other cairns
and and there is a group of some half a dozen
in the wood to the E [East] of the opening N. [North] of it about
W by N [West by North] of Little Swordale.
[2 sketches with text inserted here]
1. See fresh plan. Note. Owing to the ruined state of the structure, the thickness of brackens & birch trees, this plan cannot be regarded as perfectly accurate - though drawn to scale as far as possible.
2. Royal Commission on the Ancient Monuments of Scotland, 29 St. Andrew Square, Edinburgh,
[Continued on page 252] |
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[Continued from page 251]
Some 400 yds. [yards] W. [West] of Little Swordale within the wood
near the SW. [South West] point of a portion of the cultivated
land which projects to the SW. [South West] is a defensive
construction.
It is
formed of a circle with an interior diameter of
about 35 ft. [feet] enclosed within an outer circle some
19' distant at the WNW, [West North West], and gradually con:
:verging towards the ESE. [East South East]. In the interior and
somewhat to the SE. [South East] of the centre is a small circular
foundation with ruined walls and a diameter over all
of from 6' to 7' feet having had an entrance from
the W. [West]. The inner circle has been entirely composed
of stone, now a structureless mass about 8' across
and has been entered from the E.S.E. [East South East]. The outer
circle is composed of stones
about 14' thick on base and is pierced by a
passage about 8' across which is not apparent through the
circumference of the inner circle opposite on the NW [North West]
On the S. [South] the outer circle is a broad bank of stones
which on the E [East] tapers away until
it is represented by a single line of stones
set on end and contiguous about 1' to 2' high
which join the inner circle on the N & S [North & South] sides of
the entrance. The main entrance has been
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from the NW [North West] towards the SE [South East] part of the
inner circle & from SW to NE [South West to North East] where the outer circle converges
and has been defended by walls about 6'-
8' thick flanking it for a distance of about 42'
and 22' distant from the stones
of the outer circumference at the NE [North East] termination,
and 12' distant at SW. [South West].
The measurements of the entrance are not obtainable
owing to the ruins of the walls. The whole
area is so overgrown with bracken & birch
trees that an accurate survey was im:
:possible. I shall try and revisit the spot
on Monday. There are a few small cairns
lying near. One lying to the S. [South] about 40' away
measures 22' across is formed of large stones
and is uncovered with soil.
Some yds. [yards] [--] to the ESE [East South East] and [--] SW [South West] of
Little Swordale are one or two heaps of stone of about
20' diameter that are probably cairns.
Within the wood at the edge of the cultivated
land and on the E [East] of the tongue that projects
towards the SSW [South South West] [--] yds [yards] W. [West] of Little Swordale
is a great triangular mass of stones with
a slight concave outline to the NE [North East]. It is
50' in length and 46' across the front facing
NE. [North East] is flat on the top and about 4' high.
In front of it are irregular indefinite founda:
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:tions of walls. This mass of boulders seems too
huge to have been merely gathered from the
fields unless they were thickly strewn with cairns
and it is not quite like any sepulchral construc:
:tion I have met. Within the birch wood
to the W. [West] of the tongue of arable land to the
W [West] of Little Swordale is a small group of
cairns. It was nearly 6.20 before I left
Mr Mackenzie and set out on my 14 miles
ride home. It is very seldom I get back
before 7.0 p.m.
28th July. Moved on to the Grand Hotel Brora -
a temperance hotel, which is simple in its man:
:agement. Sandy came back from school. All
afternoon I was engaged writing up arrears.
29th July. Trained to Rogart and was joined by
Mr. Bishop from Dornoch at the Mound.
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 9.
To the E. [East] of Morness on the Breac Achadh on
the rising ground to the E [East] of the road to the NW. [North West]
of the crofts at an elevation of about 480' is a considerable group of cairns
of ordinary type. Towards the E. [East] side of the
group on the upper slope about 50 yds. [yards] W. [West] of
the croft dyke is one rather more conspicuous
than the rest. It is almost circular with a
diameter of about 21' and is about 3'.6" high
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 11
About 1/2 m. [mile] to the N. [North] on the W [West] side of the road
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about the 500' contour line is a small group of
about half a dozen cairns of the ordinary type.
About 1 mile further N. [North] on the S. [South] slope of the
moorland just beyond the
Achadnahuaighe crofts is a very considerable
[Margin] O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 10
group. Towards the NE [North East] end of the group
is an oval or oblong specimen lying with its
longest axis WNW and ESE [West North West and East South East], measuring 20' x 9'
and some 2' - 3' in height.
Near the centre of the group on the upper
side of the highest of the two tracks that run
to West Langwell is a hut circle with entrance
from SE. [South East] measuring 39'
across by 42' towards the
entrance with banks
about 6' thick gradually
widening for the last 26'
towards the entrance to
17'. The width of the
entrance passage is indefinite.
[Sketch inserted here]
The circle is surrounded by cairns
Just above the upper track and a short
distance to the W. [West] of the last are the dilapidated
foundations of a more complicated structure.
It shows signs of quite recent demolition
and in several cases the large stones which
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have marked the outline of its walls have been
torn out of place and left as well as in large
measure removed. The plan of the construction
shows an oval compartment measuring
17' across by 29'.6" to the entrance which is from
S. by W. [South by West] having two round chambers opening
off it one at the N [North] end, through an opening 10'.6" wide
measuring 14' in length by 16' across and another
towards the SW. [South West] measuring 16' in length by 14' across
the width of the entrance to the main chamber
not ascertainable. The principal entrance is
2'.8" wide through a passage about 8' long clearly
defined with large stones laid along each side. The
thickness of the walls has been from 4' to 5'.
The walls have been outlined with large stones
on both sides and a considerable amount
of stone seems to have been used in the con:
:struction. For the most part it is overgrown
with rank heather. There are no cairns
in close vicinity, the nearest is
about 100' distant.
[Sketch with text inserted here] - Note This plan is only approximate
To the S. [South] of the lower
track about 1/2 m. [mile]
NW. [North West] of Achadhna-
-huaighe is a
hut circle very
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clearly defined. The enclosing bank is about
4'.6" wide composed of boulders and turf and
about 2' high at highest. It is outlined on the
inner side with large boulders 3' to 4' in
length and one huge earthfast boulder about
6' across crosses it in the back opposite
the entrance. The entrance is from the SW. [South West]
and is 3' in width. In front of this are indications of another.
Some 30' SW. [South West] of the last is another circular
enclosure, with banks formed of boulders of
the size usually employed, about 4' thick. The
diameter across interior abut 13', length towards entrance
about 19', entrance about 7' wide through passage
8' to 9' long, from SW. [South West] (Fig) [Figure].
[Sketch inserted here]
One or two small cairns
lie in the immediate neigh:
:bourhood.
Some 200 yds [yards] Westwards are another couple of
circles. The upper one of the two occupies
a slight elevation. Its banks are much worn
away but it seems to have been of the ordinary
type with entrance SSE. [South South East]. The walls on either
side of the entrance have been carried
forward and finished with square termina:
:tions as in the previous instance. In
the interior are very distinct indications
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of the subdivision of the space into oval com:
:partments but the accurate details are obscured
by the growth of turf (cf. pp [pages] 175, 193, 250).
Some 20' S. [South] of it is another oval in outline meas:
:uring interiorly 16' x 9' set with its longest axis N & S [North & South].
The banks are much broken down and the entrance
obscure. Another small round enclosure
measuring 11' x 9'
lies immediately in rear of the first circle.
A few small cairns which appear to be
sepulchral lie around.
Immediately to the E [East] of the most Southerly area
of enclosed land at East Langwell on the
rising ground above the Garbh-Allt is a
small group of cairns of usual type.
Across the Garbh-Allt on the W [West] side of the
path to Achnagarron and about half between
it and the stream is a hut circle of ordinary
type, much effaced, with a few cairns lying
around it. A walk of a few miles
down a beautiful glen where the wild
roses luxuriated brought us to Rogart in
time for tea at the Pittentrail Inn, which
looks comfortable, before catching the 6.15
train to Brora. This has been a fine
day though rain threatened at intervals. The
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weather has been deplorable for weeks and
we have had no summer yet.
30 July. Returned to Rogart by train & bicycled
out to Achadhnacaillich. Here on the slopes of
a hillock which rises from the peat bog
to the N. [North] of the croft is a small group of
cairns. One is set against a large earthfast
boulder as is frequently done.
In the angle between the main road to Strath
Brora and the road to Golspie on the S. [South] of
the latter is a large group of cairns. Some on
the top of the rising ground rather larger
than usual.
About 1 m. [mile] S.E. [South East] to the E. [East] of Achoile is a
hut circle of the ordinary type with its banks
much worn away and entrance from SE. [South East]
and around it a group of about 1 dozen
cairns. One cairn lying about 40' to the
SE. [South East] measures about 23' x 17' and lies E. & W. [East & West].
The crofter at Achnamoine had been shepherd
for many years near Braegrudie and told
me how he had dug under & displaced one
of the stones of the circle there looking for
treasure. He said he found quantities
of chips of white flint.
A few hundred yards further S. [South] on the
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[Continued from page 259]
rising ground to the E [East] of Achork is a large
group of cairns at an elevation of about 650' to
700' feet. One is set against an outcrop of rock.
I observed only one hut circle almost immedi:
:ately E. [East] of the most Northerly house house in Achork
& about 200 yds. [yards] distant. It is of the common
type with the entrance from the SE. [South East] about
1'.8" across. The interior diameter is about
17' by 19' and the banks 4' to 5' across.
All along the hill side from about 1/2 m. [mile] E. [East] of Knock-
-Arthur for a considerable distance are cairns
and the remains of hut circles.
About 1/2 m. [mile] from Knock Arthur almost due
N. [North] of Farlary is a very well preserved
hut circle overgrown with heather.
[Sketch inserted here]
It is almost circular
with a diameter interiorly
of 31'. The entrance is
from the SE [South East] and the
banks, which are about
3'.6" high towards the interior
are about 14' thick. They
appear to be stony but there is a great
accumulation of soil over them. The
details of the entrance are not obtainable.
Many cairns lie near some almost contiguous.
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[Continued from page 260]
Some 150 yds. [yards] Westward of the last just across
a hollow are the remains of a double
circled enclosure much eroded.
[Sketch with text inserted] - approximate.
The outer circle is much worn away
Towards the S. [South] there is a
segment in which the
earth and stone bank
about 4' across still
remains but elsewhere it is
represented by an outline of single stones
observable through the heather. It has had
a diameter from E to W. [East to West] of about 32'. 6' within
it from the S. [South] is the outer edge of an oval or circular
chamber lying E. and W. [East and West] measuring about 9' x 40'
with a stone and earth wall, now merely a
foundation, about 4' thick. Immediately
in rear of this is a construction differing
in no external particular from an
ordinary small cairn. It has a diameter
of about 14' and abuts on the
outer circle (cf. with this the circle near
Lairg p. [page] 149)
Some 50 yds. [yards] W. [West] are the ruins of another
stone walled circle with the remains of
an outer earth and stone concentric
bank around it. The inner circle has
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[Continued from page 261]
an interior diameter of about 24' and is
entered from the ESE. [East South East]. Its walls which have
been entirely of stone have been about 5'.6" in
thickness. The outer bank
seems to have been of earth and
stone and at about 15'
to the S [South] of the entrance
(measured in the interior)
junctions with the
inner enclosure
and continues
towards the entrance
[Sketch inserted here]
On the opposite
side of the entrance the point of coalescence
has been nearer to the entrance but on that side
the outer mound has been much broken
down. The outer mound is about
4'.6" distant from the inner near its com:
:mencement and increases to 9' at the WNW. [West North West]
where there is an entrance through it
11' wide. On the E. [East] side of this entrance through
the outer bank and abutting on it at the
outside is another small circular enclosure
with banks about 3' thick and interior
diameter of about 12' x 15'. The entrance to it
opens on to the opening through the outer circle
and is about 1'.4" wide. The entrance to the
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[Continued from page 262]
central enclosure has been through a passage
about 11' long, 2' wide for the central 5' of its distance
and gradually expanding to 4' outwards and inwards
Numerous cairns lie around. Also about
40' S. [South] is a small hut circle of the ordinary
type with the entrance from the SSE. [South South East].
[Continued on page 264] |
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[Continued from page 263]
MS/36/9
A.O. Curle.
1909.
"Grey recumbent tomb of the dead in desert places
Standing stones on the vacant wine red moor,
Hills of sheep, and the howes of the silent vanished races
And winds austere and pure." -- R.L. Stevenson
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[Continued from page 264]
Achurigill -- 172.
Ant' Sron -- 148.
Achinduich -- 178
Achany-- 181.
Achnail -- 190.
Acha Bhataich (Strath) -- 203.
Aberscross Hill -- 224
Astel -- 229.
Acharry Moor -- 239.
Achu -- 244
Achadnahuaighe -- 255
Achnagarron -- 258.
Achadhnacaillich -- 259.
Achoile -- 259.
Achnamoine -- 259.
Achork -- 260.
Achness -- 22.
Altnaharra -- 2.
Angus Gunns Croft -- 33.
Auchanellan -- 48.
Allt-an-Duin -- 56.
Allt-an-Chaisteil -- 56.
Achnabourin -- 60. 68.
Acharagaraidh -- 60.
Allt-ach' nan Tot -- 64.
Achaigary -- 68.
Allt-a-Choruinn -- 83.
Aodann Mhor -- 85.
Ardvair -- 94
Assynt -- 106
Ardvreck -- 106
Aultnacealgach -- 110.
Ard -- 141.
Allt na Fearna -- 143.
Allt-Chaisegail -- 162.
Altbrech -- 163.
Allt-na-Inse-Mor -- 166.
Altass Mor -- 169.
Betty Hill -- 39.
Borve -- 42.
Bal Margait -- 43. 53.
Borgie Bridge -- 61.
Balnakiel -- 84.
Badnabay -- 88.
Badcall -- 90.
Bengarve -- 107.
Borralan -- 110 - 111.
Badintagart -- 130.
Balindialish -- 135.
Basharn -- 136.
Balcharn -- 160.
Ballafuer -- 181 184
Bonar Bridge -- 196.
Blackwood -- 213.
Blarick -- 235.
Balchlaggan -- 236.
Bardnabrinne -- 239.
Breac-Achadh -- 254.
Brora -- 254.
[Continued on page 266] |
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[continued from page 265]
Cnoc a' Chaoriunn -- 111.
Creageach (Loch) -- 137.
Colaboll -- 139.
Creag Saval -- 147. 162.
Cnock-a-Chatha -- 151
Chaisegail --163.
Cnock Neill -- 163. 165.
Caisteal na Coire -- 169.
Cnoc Odhan -- 189.
Cambusavie -- 190
Creag Amail -- 195.
Creag Mhor -- 223.
Cnoc-righ-Shonaid -- 237.
Clabran Sallach -- 251.
Creich Church -- 196
Clach-a-Chara -- 196
Carn Leath -- 198.
Carnachy -- 198.
Camore Wood -- 198. 209.
Crockan -- 203
Creag Liath -- 203
Coul -- 209.
Clashmore -- 211. 227.
Coille Poll na' H'Airdie -- 212
Culmailie Burn -- 218
Carn Liath -- 221.
Crask -- 229.
Creich -- 247.
Coire-nam-Feuran -- 10.
Cnoc na Geamhna -- 22
Cnoc na H'Iolaire -- 24.
Clach au Righ -- 29.
Ceann-na-Coille -- 30.
Clerk Hill -- 43.
Crag au Soiller -- 43.
Craig Braan -- 53.
Cracknie -- 63.
Craggie -- 67
Crocach -- 72.
Cuniside -- 79.
Creagach -- 80.
Camus-an-Dun -- 81.
Croisaphnill -- 87.
Carn-nam-breach -- 92.
Carnbaurn -- 93.
Clach-nessie -- 99.
Culkein -- 99.
Clachtoll -- 101.
Calda House -- 106.
Cam Loch -- 109.
Dundornadilla -- 16.
Dunkealmie -- 36.
Dun Carnachaidh -- 39.
Dun Vedin -- 46
Dun Riaski -- 53
Druim-Odhar -- 62.
Dun Maigh -- 75. 80.
Druim-na-coup -- 77.
Dhiarmids Grave -- 79.
Durness -- 83.
Duart Beg -- 91.
Drumbeg -- 97.
Dulaich -- 136.
Dola -- 138.
Dalchork -- 163. 172.
Dalnessie -- 166. 173 . 177
Doir-à-Chatha -- 170
Druim Ballefeur -- 183
Dornoch -- 188. 205.
Dalchiel -- 204
Dunrobin -- 220.
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[Continued from page 266]
Eriboll -- 81.
Eddrachyllis -- 91.
Evelix -- 203. 209.
Embo -- 204.
Fiscary -- 39. 41.
Farr -- 41.
Feadain -- 105.
Fraligal Burn -- 106.
Feith Osdaile -- 173.
Fleuchary -- 204.
Fleet (Loch) -- 208.
Farlary -- 260.
[Continued on page 268] |
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[Continued from page 267]
Grum-more -- 5. -- Grumbeg -- 6 & 20.
Gleann Ardbhain -- 94.
Glen-Cassley -- 128.
Gruidie (River) -- 181. 185.
Gruids -- 187.
Golspie -- 220.
Garbh Allt -- 232. 258.
Gablon -- 239.
Hacoin -- 74.
Hope Ferry -- 80.
Heilam Ferry -- 81.
Handa Island -- 90.
[Continued on page 269] |
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[Continued from page 268]
Inslampie -- 35.
Inch-na-damph -- 105.
Invercassley -- 169.
Klibreck, Hut circles at -- 2. -- Cross marked stone at. -- 3.
Kinloch -- 75. 77.
Keoldale -- 84.
Kylesku -- 92.
Kylestrome -- 93.
Kirkton Quarry -- 215.
Kyleog -- 242.
[Continued on page 270] |
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[Continued from page 269]
Langdale -- 36.
Loch Ma-Naire -- 47.
Laoghil -- 67. 78.
Laxford Bridge -- 88.
Loch-na-Coile -- 91.
Loch Inver -- 105.
Loanan -- 108.
Loch Awe -- 108.
Lairg -- 112. 187.
Lairg Moor -- 145.
Lednabirichen -- 205.
Loch Lundie -- 218.
Loch a Vicair -- 223.
Ledmore Wood -- 247.
Langwell (West) -- 255.
Meall-a' Ghuib Mhoir -- 18.
Melness -- 66
Mound -- 222. 215. 195.
Morvich House -- 226.
Morness -- 253.
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[Continued from page 270]
Newton Point -- 212
[Continued on page 272] |
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[Continued from page 271]
Oscar's Grave -- 94.
Oldany. -- 97. 101.
Oykell -- 112. 128. 168. 172
The Ord. -- 113. 184.
Ospisdale House -- 195. 239.
Ordan Farm -- 250.
Proncycroy -- 206.
Pittentrail. -- 231. 258.
[Continued on page 273] |
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[Continued from page 272]
Rifagil -- 36.
Rhinavie -- 58. 70.
Rhitongue. -- 73.
Rhiconich -- 88. 92.
Rhianbreck -- 131.
Rosehall -- 170.
Radoich (burn) -- 181.
Raemore -- 183.
Redhouse -- 213.
Reidchalmai -- 232.
Rogart -- 232.
Rossal -- 237.
Rhivra Burn -- 239.
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[Continued from page 273]
Stewarts Park -- 3.
Syre -- 26. 32.
Skail -- 34.
Sagairt-Ruadh -- 36.
Swordly -- 40.
Skelpic -- 45. 49. 53. 71.
Skerray -- 52.
Seanachaisteal -- 85.
Scourie -- 89.
Stronechrubie -- 108.
Strath Fleet -- 135.
Savalbeg -- 161. - 136
Sidney House -- 146. 139.
Shiness -- 140
Saval Moss -- 148.
Sallachy -- 158
Skelbo -- 207
St Kearnan -- 219.
Skaig -- 234.
Spinningdale -- 247. 239.
Swordale Wood -- 250.
Truderscaig -- 25.
Torrisdale -- 51
Tongue -- 65.
Torgawn -- 94.
Traligill -- 107
Torrobol -- 131.
Tutim -- 168.
Tirry (river) -- 177.
Torboll -- 198.
Thanes Cross -- 204
Torbuie -- 233.
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[Continued from page 274]
Varraich -- 73.
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[Continued from page 275]
Lairg 15th May 1909. Here we arrived in
time for dinner last night after a cold
journey from Edinburgh. Snow was falling
almost continuously as we passed through
the high moors in the north of Perthshire and
in Inverness-shire. On the slopes of the
hills near the summit by Dalnaspidal we
saw several herds of deer. The hotel here is
situated at the extreme S.E. [South East] end of Loch Shin
on a bank about 100 ft. [feet] distant from the
Loch. It seems well managed & comfortable,
though, as it has been snowing heavily this
forenoon, it is bitterly cold. Ben More which
towers up on the horizon 20 miles away, is
covered in a white mantle. This afternoon
we leave at 2.0 for Atnaharra in an open
public motor (a lorry-like vehicle with a
bench across it,) and our journey of 22 miles
does not promise to be a comfortable one.
A bitterly cold drive over lonely moors with
splendid views of Ben More, Ben Clibreck, and
other snow clad mountains brought us to
Altnahara about 4.0. Here is a shooting lodge,
rented by Mr. Baxendale a few cottages and
[End of volume 2] |
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