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Notes on Berwickshire Monuments.
A. O. Curle.
1908. |
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1st Augt. 1908.
The private journal of a wandering Antiquary.
Having started on my course of inspection of all
the Ancient Monuments of Scotland I have
deemed it advisable to keep a journal wherein
I may record my varied experiences & adventures
as such may from time to time befall me.
This evening I arrived at St. Abbs a little fishing
village on the Berwickshire coast, a mile South
of St. Abbs Head. A row of unpretentious villas
adjoins a straggling village of fisherman’s houses.
Here we have taken “The Anchorage” for a month
as a base for me and a sea-side holiday for the
children. From my window I step onto a flat
roof over the kitchen etc. and gaze far out to sea
where numerous steamers are passing to and fro.
Straight down below me, with an intricate entrance
through the rocks, lies the little harbour, with half
a score of fishing boats lying at rest, their nets
hanging from the booms, and strung from the
masts on long rows of bright coloured bladder floats
drying in the sun.
2nd Augt.
A glorious day. Albeit it is Sunday I made
my way South along the coast to Hallydown
Dean to look for a “camp” so indicated on
the 1 inch. Scale but omitted from the 6 inch.
I located the spot, strongly defensible with a
ravine on three sides but the waving field of
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of barley showed me that of the “camp” no trace
now remained. Yesterday I met Lord Johnston
who told me that the minister of Fala has in
his charge two splendid brass candelabra which
are said to have belonged to the religious house
of Soutra, also fine old Communion cups.
I found a large clump of white rest-harrow
growing on the round grassy hillock at the S. [South] end
of Coldingham Bay. called the Homely Knoll.
3rd Augt. 1908.
Another lovely day but with a strong wind blowing
out of the W. [West] I strapped on my surveyors rods to
the top bar of my bicycle & with my canvas bag
containing note books, clinometer, tape-line & map
took the road to Coldingham about 9.40. The rods
Eyemouth
at first were rather uncomfortable but I managed
to arrange them more comfortably as the day went
on. Getting my cyclometer fitted wasted the best
part of an hour at Coldingham but that accom:
:plished I set off for Eyemouth. A quaint little
fishing town, reeking of fish; and presenting evidences of
the fishing industry at every turn. A couple of picturesque
18th Century houses with pediments over the doors
and corbellings under the roof still stand on the
quay, but of earlier domestic architecture there is
nothing that calls for comment. In the old
church yard is erected at one corner a watch-
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Eyemouth
tower, into the two faces of which, towards the grave
yard, have been inserted a number of old tombstones
with the skull & crossbones & other emblems of
mortality. A round headed door way may
have come from the old church said to have
been pulled down at the beginning of the last
century, as also a course of rope & nail head
moulding which is inserted as a sort of string course
below the tombstones. It is said that when the
old graveyard became full, the heritors solved
the difficulty of finding a new dumping ground
by superimposing six feet of soil on the old surface,
upright stones were brought up & reared around
the walls etc. but the flat ones remained beneath.
The tower at Gunsgreen is a thing of no account.
An old coach house with an embattled roof.
A small urchin, who guided me to it, told me
a legend of wooden canons inside which “they”
used for practice! Somerset’s fort is the only
real antiquity at Eyemouth and save the
earthworks nothing of it remains. It occupies
a headland to the West of the little bay at the
head of which the town lies. I had a passable
lunch at the “Home Arms” recommended by the
chemist, but dear enough as country inns are.
From there to Chester Hill 2 or 3 miles away was an
easy ride with the wind behind me. Here on the
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Chester Hill Ayton.
top of a grassy hill, whose side seaward is
fairly precipitous, I found that the “site” of the
O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map justified greater attention. I had
procured the services of a small boy from
the farm & with his assistance made a rapid
survey. I have serious doubts now whether
I obtained the correct diameters. It is so dif:
:ficult to get a right angle to the central
diameter. However my measurements are
something better than the word “site”. On my
return from the hill top the farmer asked me if
I had observed the rocks, which he described in
such a way as to suggest vitrifaction, & forced
me to again mount the hill. It was conglomerate -
natural! Two miles on brought me to Ayton.
Ayton
where I called on Mr. Aiken but found him from home
& then with the aid of a kindly native measured
the remains of the old church. Got a little re:
:freshment in a baker’s & home about 6.0 to
find that my precious daughter had fallen &
cut her head. Not badly but a Doctor was
sent for & the cut was stitched once. She was very
plucky & never cried during the operation.
4th August.
Walked to Coldingham to pick up my bicycle
left there overnight for repairs: Leaving about
10.45 I passed through Ayton & onwards up
a rough & hilly road to Lamberton Moor
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Habchester Fort.
Having located the fort of Habchester from its
conspicuous ramparts I hid my bicycle behind
a wall and made my way to the top of the
hill where it was situated. Though one half has
been entirely obliterated it is still a most striking
fort with two ramparts a couple of ditches &
an outer counterscarp without a parapet. I
made use for the first time of my surveyor’s staff
& clinometer and found them both most handy.
The height of the inner rampart from the foot of the
ditch I found to be 12 feet – that of the outer rampart
10 ft. and the depth of the outer ditch 6 ft. 6 ins
below the top of the counterscarp. The defences
measure 78 ft. overall from the crest of the
inner rampart to the top of the counterscarp.
The ramparts are of earth & stone their sub:
:stance being discolosed at a spot where the
sheep have broken the inner one. The measur:
:ments were taken from the centre of the
remaining portion of the defences. I probed
the centres of the sites in the zone at rear
of the rampart & found stone in all
cases a few inches below the surface.
Lamberton Church.
I next proceeded over Lamberton Moor
by an execrable road to Lamberton old
church. a deserted place – overgrown with
nettles & weeds & nothing of interest visible.
A kindly steward’s wife directed me over the hill
by a path used by the postman to Mordington
Mordington (R. Campbell Renton)
thus saving me many miles. Mordington
“vault” I found in a plantation near the
house surrounded by nettles higher than my
head. I much regretted having no heel-ball
to make a rubbing of the inscription – an at:
:tempt with grass and the paper off my sand:
:wiches not being satisfactory & the place was
too dark to make a successful copy. I then
called at Foulden, having previously visited
Edrington Ho. [House] by mistake. The Wilkies were
Foulden Churchyard.
in Berwick. In Foulden churchyard I found
the memorial to “Georg Ramsay in F. [Foulden] Bastel”
& the old fort. Foulden Bastel survives
only in the name. Thence to Chirnside where
I was glad to get tea at the Waterloo Arms
& half an hour’s rest before setting off to the
station. Bicycled from Reston & home about
6.30. Find everyone very polite & all the
farm people I speak to interested. It has
been rather windy today & there were one or
two heavy showers – rode 24 miles, & did not
feel the least tired when I got in though I never
rested for more than 10 mins [minutes] & that only once when
I eat my lunch in a cottage at Lamberton.
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5th Augt.
Left St. Abbs at 6.45 a soft rain falling and
the weather looking none too promising, in
the ‘bus for Reston. Train to Grants Ho. [House] where I
Abbey St Bathans.
breakfasted with an Edinb. [Edinburgh] baker out for a
holiday. He liked “freedom on a holiday” so his luggage
consisted of a rod, basket & a pair of stockings!! Hired
from there to Abbey St. Bathans with a de:
:lightful old driver who informed me that Mr
Turnbull was a “W.C” in Edinburgh. We stopped
at Butterdean where I saw the site of
Kilspindle Castle (Site)
Kilspindie Castle, a few low mounds & fragments
of masonry beside the steading & between the mill pond
& the road. From thence by a very hilly road
I drove to the Muirhouse, passing Quixwood
locally called ‘Cookswood’, (Celtic Cuach =
“Cuckoo” wood.) where I met Mr. Wilson the
schoolmaster, a tall, thin, delicate looking man
with a thorough knowledge of the objects of
interest in his parish. He took me first to in:
:spect a portion of the Blackdyke passing
Blackdyke (G. Turnbull)
S.W. [South West] across a piece of moorland from the
road 1/2 m. [mile] N.W. [North West] of Muirhouse towards Abbey
St. Bathans. It is a track sunk a foot or so
below the level of the adjacent land about 10 ft. [feet]
in breadth from the top of the slope on either
side. There was no sign of a bank on top of
the slope but all along its course on the
sides stones outcropped. We next proceeded
Shannobank Hill. (G. Turnbull)
to Shanno-bank Hill & inspected the fort
on the summit. It is strongly situated with a
very steep slope on the W. [West] side down to the
Monynut burn. The fort consists of a central
enclosure oval in shape 248 ft. [feet] in length by 208 in breadth
within two low ramparts of stone showing no
signs of construction, concentric, except
towards the W. [West] side where they converge.
At the northern extremity & outside the outer
rampart is a circular annex contained
by a single rampart abutting on the outer rampart of the camp 278 ft. [feet] in diameter. The
total diameter of fort and annex from N [North] to S. [South]
is 446 ft. [feet] and that of the fort from E [East] to W. [West] 269. The
distance from crest to crest of the two ramparts
at the S. [South] end is 66 ft. [feet] at the N. [North] end 54 ft. [feet], and
at the E [East] side 61 ft. [feet]. Several circular foundations
are apparent partially in and on the E [East] side
of the inner rampart and there is one well
defined within the annex situated close to
the S. [South] side. Adjacent to the outer rampart on the
[Margin] The entrances are
not very clear but
the principal seems
to have been, through
the outer rampart and
the middle of the E [East] side
& at the N.W. [North West] end
& into the interior
at the North end.
E. [East] side are several circular depression the
most distinct having a diameter of 11 ft. [feet] and
a depth of 2 ft. [feet]. Beneath the turf all over
the fort stones were encountered at a
depth of a few inches almost as if the summit
had been paved. The surface seems in part
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to have been ploughed. It rained heavily most
of the time I was on the summit. The church
I found as described by Mr. Ferguson. The
Abbey St. Bathans Church. (Turnbull)
East window is circular beaded and has
two trefoil headed lights surmounted by a plate
pierced by a quatrefoil. The mullion is modern.
Abbey St. Bathans Chapel.
The site of the chapel in a wood to the S. [South] shows
a S. [South] wall about 2 ft. [feet] high. Lying in the centre
is a broken ring of stone about 2’.6” dia [diameter]
which may have been the edge of a font.
The head of the effigy of the Abbess in the church
rests on two tasselled cushions. The wells
marked on the map show no features of Antiquity.
Strafontine (site)
There is nothing visible at the site of Strafontine
(etym. [etymology] Trois fontaines) but 3 terraces are
very distinct on the lower slopes of the hill
to the So. [South] It was too wet to attempt to get
to the top of Cockburn Law or Edin’s Hall.
Mr. Wilson entertained me most kindly
& gave me tea. I drove back to Grant’s Ho. [House]
where I again got the train & returned here
about 7.0. p.m.
6th August
Off before 10.0 after writing necessary letters &
rode via Ayton to Edington Hill. Sunny and
very warm. Found I had passed the site of En [Edington] Hill
toll 1/4 north of which a cup marked stone was
said to lie, so walked back leaving bicycle at the
Edingtonhill (Ld [Lord] Tweedmouth)
farm litterly failed to find a trace of it so retraced
my steps to the farm E. [East] of which the Schoolmaster had
noted the site of a camp. Of it I could see no trace either
nor did any one about the farm know of its existence.
[Margin] This is said to have been E. [Edington] Mansion & the castle to have stood near the river.
Edington Castle
Rode on to Edington Castle but o’er shot it. Met a
gamekeeper who directed me & also knew the stone
I was previously in search of. Edington Castle I
found was represented by one wall only forming
the N. [North] boundary of a market garden. The wall
was 86 ft. [feet] long with a return of 24 ft. [feet] at the E [East] end.
Thickness 3 ft. 8 ins. [3 feet 8 inches]. The masonry large. The windows
somewhat large & square, deeply splayed internally.
All however are built up & have fruit trees
trained against the outside. The gardener who
took me round told me he found many founda:
:tions in the garden. There was a small oven
entering from present level in the thickness of the
wall at the W. [West] end. The wall in places is still
about 8 ft. [feet] high. There is a fine old pigeon
house of the usual kind with sloping crow:
:stepped gables at the S.W. [South West] end of the garden.
It is very strongly built of large blocks of free
stone & the walls are three feet thick. There
has been a door inside the door checks and
probably a grill outside. The roof is tiled,
The masonry was so good that it
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suggested to me a converted keep but there
were no signs of windows and the whole work
seemed to be original. It was entirely lined inside
with square recesses for the pigeons.
Edington Castle Tumulus. (Ld [Lord] Tweedmouth)
Outside the garden in a park at the S.W. [South West]
corner I easily found the tumulus from which
a cist had been extracted about a century
ago. Oval in shape it was 43 ft. [feet] long, 27 broad
& 3 ft. [feet] high. It appeared to be of earth... at a
distance of 18 ft. [feet] on the S. [South] & W. [West] sides a bank
of earth forms an angle. [Sketch inserted] The bank is a
few feet in height and may be the remains
of an old wall or earth baulk. It now seemed
advisable to return to my search for the cup marked
stone so I rode back a mile over a considerable
hill, hid my bicycle behind a dyke & marched across
the fields to the spot indicated by the keeper. After
Edington hill Cup marked stone (Ld. [Lord] Tweedmouth)
much searching I found the stone still forming
the covering of a well. The stone is roughly a rectangu:
:lar block of freestone with a fairly flat surface
except where the surface has been broken off to:
:wards the right side. It is 4 ft. 4 in. [4 feet 4 inches] in length,
2 ft. 6 in. [2 feet 6 inches] in breadth and 10 inches deep. At the
[Margin] It is on farm of
E’ [Edington] hill & belongs
to Ld. [Lord] Tweedmouth.
top left hand corner is a cup mark 5 ins. [inches] long
3 ins. [inches] broad at the centre, & 1 1/2 to 3 ins. [inches] deep & some:
:what oval in shape. The tool marks singularly
apparent. The cup does not quite reach the edge
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and the intervening portion about an inch in length
is cut by a narrow channel. From the opposite
end of the cup another channel is scored in
a curving line across the slab to the
opposite end. The cup was covered with turf
which I replaced. The situation of the stone is
on the left bank of a burn running across a
piece of boggy unploughed meadow towards the
S.W. [South West] end of the Black burn plantation about 3/4 mile
N.W. [North West] of Edington hill Farm. It is forty yards or so
distant S.E. [South East] from the edge of the plantation.
Hutton Castle (Ld. [Lord] Tweedmouth)
From this point to Hutton Castle is a distance of 3 to
4 miles. The sun was very hot, I had had no lunch
though it was between 2 & 3.0 & I was very hungry.
Hutton I found much modernised since described
by Macgibbon & Ross. The old keep seemed to be
the only portion unaltered though the circular tower
in the angle between it & the main block had been
considerably heightened as also had the central building.
The windows had been widened etc. etc. The dining
room is beautifully panelled in carved oak
but whether all antique I do not know. The
signs of a dry ditch between the house & the
ravine are no longer visible. Much money
must have been expended on house & grounds
probably about 1898, the date on the building.
I was glad to reach Chirnside about 3.30
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Chirnside
and get some lunch at the Waterloo Arms, which
seems comfortable. Refreshed I called on Mr. Smart
the parish minister, whom I met yesterday in the
train. He received me kindly & took me to his church
Dovecote
one of the prettiest village churches I have seen,
the work, except to a small degree where ancient, of
Sydney Mitchell. On our way we inspected a
quaint little pigeon house in the corner of a
cottage garden. Conical in form with an
opening in the centre of the roof for the pigeons.
Chirnside Church.
The main doorway on the S. [South] side of the church is the only
old feature remaining. It is a flat headed
doorway within a recessed semicircular arch of two
orders supported on cylindrical pillars with
cushion capitals and square abace. The outer
[sketch inserted] order has a double rounded moulding
[sketch inserted] and the inner is square edged with double
chevrons on the face. A couple of links of
the chain from which the jougs suspended
still hang on the outer wall to the E [East] of the
door. A sundial, square faced bears on its
base the inscription “Hoc age dum lumen est.”
It occupies a niche in the S. [South] angle of the W. [West] gable
High up on the wall to the right of the pulpit is a
small stone inscribed “'Helpe the pur 1573 – VE:"-
Train to Reston & home about 6.45.
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7th Augt. 1908.
Obtained the services of a boy for the
day and set off for the Coldingham Loch forts.
Having omitted to bring my large scale map I ex:
:perienced the greatest difficulty in finding them
Coldingham Loch fort no.10 (? Burn Murdoch)
& eventually found No.10 which I took for No.11. of
my map. I could not make it agree with Dr. [Doctor] Christison’s
description. It is situated on the top of a small
rocky hillock, considerably overgrown with whins
about 500 yds. [yards] S by E [South by East] of Westloch farm house.
I found it a small oval fort surrounded with
a single rampart of earth & stone except at the
N.W. [North West] corner where for a short distance it is doubled
at a distance of 26 ft. [feet] from crest to crest. The entrance
appears to have been at the S.E. [South East] but it is indefinite.
The rampart at the N.W. [North West] has been
removed for a short distance by quarrying. The
longest diameter from crest to crest of rampart
is 142 ft. [feet] the breadth at centre 110”. The rampart
on the N.E. [North East] is carried straight along the top
of an outcropping rock which continues beyond
the turn of the rampart. In the S.E. [South East] corner
is a circular depression with an interior
diameter of 24 ft. [feet]. Much time was wasted looking
for fort No.11. which I gave up eventually & passed
Westward towards Oatlee Hill. I crossed Earnsheuch
500 ft. [feet] above the sea then dipped down to the westerside
Dean where through a lovely glen with honeysuckle
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hanging in profusion from the rocks a burn
ran down to fall a couple of hundred feet or more
down cliffs to the sea. From the burn a hot climb
of a few hundred feet brought me to the top of
Oatlee Hill.
Oatlee Hill. Here about 60 ft. [feet] E. [East] of the Mile post.
at the S.E. [South East] end of the summit, 500 ft. [feet] above the sea
is situated a small oval or irregular oblong fort with
rounded corners enclosed in a single rampart of earth & stone. Its diameter from N. to S. [North to South] 121 ft. [feet]
and from E to W. [East to West] 109. The entrance 8 or 9 ft. [feet] wide
is in W. [West] side. 28 ft. [feet] S.E. [South East] from the W. [West] corner the foundation of wall
runs at right angles to the rampart for a distance of
36 ft. [feet] into the enclosure. On a platform in the N. [North]
corner slightly above the level of the rest of the interior
is a circular depression with a dia. [diameter]
of 29 ft. [feet] and to the S. [South] of it against the N.E. [North East] rampart
is another circular depression with an interior dia. [diameter]
of 12 ft. [feet].
Earnsheuch
Earnsheuch. On the top of a cliff 500 ft. [feet]
above the sea, whose edge forms the N. [North] boundary
are two semi-oval camps. They lie adjoining
each other though separately defensible. That
to the West is enclosed within a triple rampart
having a platform between the inner & middle
ramparts and a ditch between the middle & outer.
The ramparts are concentric except at the East
end where the middle rampart terminates
about 80 ft. [feet] from the cliff and the outer & inner
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rampart curve in opposite directions so as to give
space for two additional
ramparts with their bases on the cliff and meeting
at a point near the termination of the middle
rampart. The diameter of the interior from
East to West about 20 ft. [feet] from the cliff. 219 ft. [feet] from
crest to crest of the W. [West] defences. 61 ft. [feet] and of the E. [East] 101.
From Centre of base to rampart 124 ft. [feet].
Along the interior of the inner rampart are 8 circular
foundations the largest of which being the second
from the E. [East] end has an internal dia. [diameter] of 26 ft. [feet] while
that of the three immediately to the W. [West] being 16, 18, &
16 ft. [feet] respectively. Nearly opposite the entrance which
is towards the W. [West] end there are two detached circles
in the interior. The entrance passes directly through
the three ramparts & is about 9 ft. [feet] across. The
ramparts are of earth & stone. The inner rampart
is about 3 ft. [feet] above the level of the interior & 7 ft. [feet] above
the platform while the middle rampart is 8 ft. 6 in. [8 feet 6 inches] above
the ditch & the outer 3 1/2 above the bottom of the ditch.
Eamsheuch E. [Eastern] fort.
The Eastern fort is also enclosed by 3 ramparts with a ditch between 1 & 2 and a platform between 2nd & outer, con:
:centric except at the S.E. [South East] where the outer one
curves out somewhat and where it junctions with the
middle at the W. [West] extremity, being joined at
this point to the outer rampart of the W. [West] fort
by a short straight rampart, while the inner ramp
curves back to the cliff. The entrance passes diagonally
through the ramparts at the S.W. [South West] end. The ramparts
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are of earth & stone and are low
the inner one being only 1 to 2 ft. [feet] above the interior
& the other about 4 ft. [feet] high above the intervening
spaces. The diameter from cliff edge to crest of
inner ramp. [rampart] about the centre is 124 ft. [feet] from crest of
inner to that of middle rampart, 33 ft. [feet] & thence to crest
of outer 45 ft. [feet]. 202 ft.[feet] in all. Length of base about
330 ft. [feet] over all. (This last measurement is from O.S. [Ordnance Survey) quoted
by Christison). No hut circles visible. Outside
the extreme E [East] and about 100 ft. [feet] away is a small
rectangular foundation. A hard day’s work in
great heat for a time. Glad to find my way
down to the lighthouse on the head to a picnic
tea.
8th Aug. 1908.
Left at half past six & had a bathe. A glorious
morning. Set off about 9.30 for Cockburnlaw to meet
Mr. Wilson of Abbey St. Bathans. A head wind for
9 or 10 miles made it a very hard ride and I ar:
:rived 3/4 of an hour late at “The Retreat”. A doubtful
fort in the wood was so hidden by brackens that it
was impossible to see it and I am rather sceptical
Edins Hall (G. Turnbull)
of its existence. Edins Hall I found answered to
the written descriptions except that a portion of
the wall on the left side of the entrance to the
broch has been thrown down & now only measures
2’. 5” as against 5 ft. [feet] some years ago. This
monument is now under the charge of the Office
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of Works. About 300 ft. [feet] S. [South] of the E. [East] entrance
Foundations near Edin’s Hall.
to the enclosure of Edin’s Hall at the upper edge of
the field in which it is situated and W.N.W. [West North West] of the
summit of Cockburn Law at an elevation of 722 ft. [feet] are a series of founda:
:tions with the main axis N. [North] and S. [South]. At the North
end is a large circular saucer shaped depression with a
diameter of sixty eight feet, the upper edge level
with the field on the N. [North] and W. [West] but enclosed
with a stone bank on the S. [South] and E. [East] The entrance
is towards the East. The bank is about 2 ft. [feet] high and
at its base 12 ft. [feet] broad. Adjoining it to the S. [South]
is an enclosure rectangular at the N. [North] end and
at the S.E. [South East] corner but having the S.W. [South West] angle
occupied by a part of a circular foundation
which extends Westward beyond the line of its W. [West] side. It is
enclosed by a low bank of stones somewhat
delapidated on the W. [West] side but fairly complete
on the E [East] in the centre of which side there is an
entrance. Its longest diameter from N. [North] to S [South] is
also 68 ft. [feet] and its breadth 46 ft. [feet]. The circle in
the S.W. [South West] corner has a diameter of 22 ft. [feet] and opens
into the interior to the E. [East] Adjoining this circle
to the S. [South] are the remains of another of similar
character and of a third adjoining the
latter to the E. [East]. At 22 ft. [feet] S.E. [South East] of the entrance
to the oblong enclosure are the remains of an
outer stone mound running N. [North] & S. [South] & apparently
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[Continued from page 26]
curving slightly towards the W. [West]. Cultivation on
all sides has been carried close to these founda:
:tions and they have suffered accordingly. My
attention was drawn to them by Mr. Wilson &
they do not appear to have been noted before.
Proceeding up Cockburn Law I was unable to
identify any of the hut circles etc. mentioned in
the Ber. Nat. Club. Pro. [Berwickshire Naturalists Club Proceedings] though I observed several
low mounds towards the S.E. [South East] side, without excava:
:tion it was impossible to ascertain their true
Cockburn Law
character however. The camp on the summit
agreed exactly with Dr. [Doctor] Christisons description.
I took no measurements considering that his
might be accepted as he gives plans & sections.
The ramparts are no where above a few feet in
height and I do not think there have been ditches.
The only additional observation I made was a
row of large detached boulders below the peak
on the E. [East] side, beginning near the S. [South] entrance
and running round in a curve to the North
side forming an enclosure the entrance into
which is distinctly observable facing the
E. [East] towards the centre. There are three distinct
entrances to the camp viz. on the Nor. W, [North West] – West –
& S. [South] The signs of foundations in the
inner enclosure are very slight, though the inner
rampart at either side of the Nor. [North] West entrance is
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[Continued from page 28]
broken down in such a way as to suggest that
this was down to form the sites guard chambers as seemed
to be the case at Bonchester. There seemed to
be many grouse on the hill & I have seen there
and elsewhere during the week several large
coveys of partridges with very well grown birds.
It was easy riding back with a following wind
& I got home about 5.45.
9th Augt. 1908.
Another glorious day. Bathed with the
family in the forenoon & thereafter inspected the
“Deils Dander” which I carefully measured etc.
“Deils Dander” W. [West] Coldingham Shore.
in the afternoon. It is a large rounded mass
of vitrified stone lying on the summit of a cliff
which projects into a small bay to the S. [South] of the
Homely knoll at the S. [South] end of Coldingham Bay.
The cliff is 40’ high 35 ft. [feet] across a few feet in rear
of the boulder, and projects on the top 75 ft. [feet].
The mass is situated near the point at the sea
end. It is 20 ft. [feet] 5” in circumference and 6 ft. [feet] in
deameter and at the highest 5 ft. 4in. [5 feet 4 inches] in height
Alternate layers of vitrified matter and small
broken stones are superimposed in regular hori:
:izontal bands. The stones are broken to about
the size of ordinary road metal or somewhat
less. The layers of stone are about 4 in [inches] deep
& of vitrifaction 2 in. [inches] these measures being
wonderfully constant. A low narrow
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stoney mound, a few inches in height encircles
the mass at a distance of about 6 ft. [feet] on the
E [East], on which side the mass is more weathered,
and passes close to it on the landward
or West side. From the feeling of the material
under the turf when struck with the piercer
I rather think that it also is vitrified but that
can only be ascertained by digging. A few
hundred yards up the burn which flows down
the glen to the north of the cliff are a number
of mounds which must be examined later.
Sandy bathed for the first time this morning
& was rather nervous but did very well on the
whole.
10 Augt. 1908.
A wet morning when I started from St. Abbs about
8.20. but improved by the time I reached Reston to
catch the 9.17 train for Gordon. Arrived at
Gordon I visited the site of Gordon Castle near
the railway station but only a couple of ditches
at the base of a mound suggest where the castle
has been. Arrived at the village I sought out
Lothian the gamekeeper & made enquiry as to
the disposal of certain relics of gold & silver
found in the Cadger’s cairn in 1838 and in
1884 in possession of a Mr. John Hay: I learned that
they had been given by Mr. Hay to Mr. Freer of Melrose
now dead. Greenknowe Tower situated a few
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[Continued from page 32]
hundred yards W. [West] of the village I next visited
and found that it did not conform to the
descriptions in the Berwickshire Nat. Procd. [Naturalists Proceedings]. It is an L shaped
building, 35 ft. [feet] in length along the (?) W. [West] side, 34 ft. [feet] on the
north, the breadth of the main building being 23 ft. [feet]
and of the extension 15’.6”. The length of the main
block to the junction of the wing on the E [East] side 19 ft. [feet]
and the length of the projection 11 ft. [feet]. The thickness
of the walls of the main block is 4’.8” and of the
wing 3’.5”. There are labelled angle turrets at the corners
of the main building and at the S. [South] corner of the
wing all of which appear to be contemporaneous
with the rest of the building. The doorway is
in the S. [South] side of the wing adjoining the main block
it is 11 ft. [feet] high and 3’.6” in breadth and has a
fine iron yett in position with its original bolt
attached. Over the doorway the lintel bears
two shields, between the letters J.S. and J.E.
the first charged quarterly 1 and 4, 3 crescents
with a bordure flory counter flory, 2 and 3 three
escutchions, the second bears three crescents two
and one. In the centre between the shields is the
date 1581. The heraldic carvings are somewhat weather
worn. Opposite the doorway a newelstair
leads to the top of the tower carried up in
an angle to turret which commences above the height
of the door. To the left of the door is the entrance
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[Continued from page 34]
to a vaulted kitchen with an aperture in the centre
of the roof communicating with the hall above.
To the right of the door is the commencement of a
stair evidently leading to a cellar. In the hall
is a fine arched fireplace flanked with jambs having
square capitals and abaci, and at the S. [South] end of
the room above is another fireplace whose jambs
& lintel are ornamented with facia mouldings
To the left of the entrance & directly outside the jamb of
the doorway is a slit from the kitchen, 2’.8” high and
5” wide commanding the doorway. The tower
shows no signs of reconstruction and the turrets
have no appearance of “modern” additions.
It is in good order and belongs to Mr.
Arthur Dalrymple Forbes Gordon. On the
W. [West] gable of one of the farm cottages at Upper
Huntlywood, high up on the wall is a much
decayed inscription which with the aid of
a ladder I deciphered
ISOBEL HVM VMVH[ILE] SPOVS OF A.H. OF HVTOVN
H. A.D. 1594” Hutoun H. I take to mean Hutton Hall.
Lothian accompanied me on a bicycle. The
camp on the Knock Hill did not agree with
Dr. [Doctor] Christison’s description so I felt obliged
to remeasure it. It is much dilapidated
especially on the S [South] and E. [East] On the S.W. [South West] and
S. [South] only one rampart remains but on the
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[Continued from page 36]
S.E. [South East] and round to the N.W. [North West] two are still ap:
:parent. At the E [East] end they seem to have been
quarried out - being formed of stones. The entrance
is at the E [East] end and passes straight through the
ramparts. It is about 9’ wide. The total length
over all from E [East] to W. [West] from crest to crest of outer
rampart is 472 ft. [feet] the breadth of the defences at
E. [East] end 26 ft. [feet]. The diameter (Internal) 191 ft. [feet] the
breadth of defences on N. [North] 26 ft. [feet]. The lines encircle
the summit which is uneven & rocky. Signs
of foundations are very indefinite and the
delapidated state of the ramparts is probably
due to the stones having been carted away
to build dykes and not to huts placed within
Bassendean Ch. [Church]
them. Bassendean Church I found
much as described. It has a door and
two windows, on the So. [South] side. The latter flat
topped & countersplayed with mouldings on
the inside. The walls have been brought to
a level course at a height 12 ft. [feet]; the ivy has been
removed & they have been recently pointed.
The thickness is 3’.3”. Other measurements as in
description. Two grave slabs are sketched in
my note book. Of the tower of Bassendean
little remains. At the S. [South] end of the mansion
an ivy covered building about 15 ft. [feet] high sup:
:porting a green house represents it. It has
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[Continued from page 38]
been a rectangular building 23 ft. [feet] long by 17 ft. [feet] broad.
There is an old sundial on the S.W. [South West] angle with a
monogram as sketched.
Corsbie Tower ?Marquess of Tweeddale.
Of Corsbie Tower only the West & North walls remain
measuring 39 ft. [feet] and 27 ft. [feet] respectively. The walls
are 7 ft. [feet] thick and 44 ft. [feet] high and the corners
of the building are rounded. It stands on a
knoll which must have been entirely surrounded
by a bog. The masonry at the corners is fine.
Legerwood Church
Legerwood church. The chancel was restored in 1898
The chancel arch has three orders the two outer
with round mouldings and the inner with a
square edged moulding. They spring from columns
with chamfered & foliated capitals with square
enriched abaci. The description is correct as far
as it goes. There are two interesting carved
stones inserted into the S. [South] wall of the chancel beneath the
window and about 3 ft. [feet] from the floor. One
which measures 12” by 9” has a complete interlaced
ornament, the other about the same size is
a curious representation of foliage in high
relief & shows signs of red colour. It is in style
unlike anything with which I am familiar.
Ledgerwood Hill Fort.
Before making off for Lauder I climbed Legerwood
Hill & satisfied myself that no trace of the camp
now remained. Arrived in Lauder about 5.0.
Arranged with Mr. Duthie, schoolmaster to do Channelkirk
tomorrow.
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[Continued from page 40
11 Aug 1908.
Harryburn Lauder. A belated letter from Mr Owen
Secretary to the Welsh Commission wishing to come to
Edinb [Edinburgh] to see me arrived this morning. I shall try to arrange
to see him next month in London. At 9.45 I met Mr Duthie
the schoolmaster and Mr. McConochie the parish minister
Black Chester
at the gate & on bicycles set off for Blackchester
camp. The fort is situated in the middle of a thick
fir wood, the interior open but covered with thick
grass and mostly enclosed with a high wire netting
fence for rearing pheasants. I found it much as
described. On the N. [North] side where the defences are
highest I found, the inner mound 7’ above the ditch
the Mid. rampart 13 ft. [feet] above the middle ditch & the
outer rampart 6 ft. [feet] high on outside. From the top of
the counterscarp of the outer ditch to the crest of
the inner rampart the distance is 123 ft. [feet] viz.
28 ft. [feet] from counterscarp to crest of outer mound, 43 ft. [feet]
from outer to middle and 52 ft. [feet] from middle to inner.
In the interior near the centre is a small depression
11 ft. x 6 ft. [11 feet x 6 feet] and 3 ft. [feet] deep. The entrances are 2.
One direct thro’ [through] the W.S.W. [West South West] about 9 ft. [feet] wide the
other on the East side. A ride of a mile or
so brought us to the foot of the hill at Addinston.
Addinston
The camp is a most remarkable example of a
hill fort. In shape an irregular oval much
as described. The entrances are at the S.E [South East] and
through the middle of the W. [West] side. In front of
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[Continued from page 42]
either entrance through the inner rampart is a crescentic depression traversing
the roadway which crosses the ditches. At the
S. [South] it is 27 ft. [feet] in length from point to point and
7 ft. [feet] across. That at the W. [West] is 35 ft. x 8 ft. [35 feet x 8 feet]. A low
mound continues the line of the rampart across the
entrance. The depth of the crescentic depression
on the W. [West] is about 2 ft. [feet]. The roadway appears to
have entered diagonally. At the highest point
on the N.W. [North West] the inner rampart is 17 ft. [feet] above the ditch & the middle
on the inside 16 and outside 9. In the centre is
a circular enclosure with a raised mound.
7 ft. [feet] across, the interior diameter 42, height of
mound 2 ft. [feet] on outside & less on inside. On
the left of the entrance on the W. [West] side is a circular founda:
:tion with an internal diameter of 32 ft. [feet] having an entrance facing S.E. [South East] and
to the E [East] of it & close to the large circle another
with an internal diameter of 27 ft. [feet].
Wallace’s Knowe
A walk of about 1 1/2 miles up the Glenburnie
under the guidance of Mr. Dickinson farmer,
at Longcroft brought us to Wallace’s Knowe.
on the East side of the Whelplaw burn on a
projecting spur of the Widecleuch Rig. Steep
& stony on all sides except towards the S. [South] where
it joins the hill. Across the neck two ramparts
have been erected with a single ditch on the
outer side. The ditch is 7 1/2 ft. [feet] below the crest
of the rampt [rampart] & of the top of the counterscarp
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[Continued from page 44]
The inner rampart is about 3 ft. [feet] high. The distance
from the top of the counterscarp to the crest of the
outer rampart is 33 ft. [feet] & from the outer to inner
rampart 35 ft. [feet]. The length of the interior 193 ft. [feet].
The summit is rocky and below it on the North
and W. [West] are two level platforms. The breadth of
the spur is [--]. On the top of the outer rampart
is a small circular depression about 5’ x 6’.
Between the Outer & inner rampart near the
centre & connecting them is a small rectangular enclosure with
interior dimensions 12 ft. [ffet] broad & 16 ft. [feet] from N. [North] to
S. [South] The ramparts are concentric &
curve round towards the W. [West]. There are traces
of an old track leading up the hill side to:
:wards the E [East] end of the ramparts:- (Correct
directions etc. from 6” map) This has not been pre:
:viously noticed.
Longcroft. Lauderdale
Longcroft may be taken from previous descrip:
:tions. The entrances are on the Nor. E [North East] and
W. [West]. There is apparently a well between the
inner & second rampart on E [East] side. The
numerous remains of enclosures in the
interior differ in character from those usually
observed they are larger & more rectangular.
There is much stone in the ramparts & about
the interior. The tracks that lead up the
hill from the West are very distinct, hollow
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[Continued from page 46]
[Opposite page - text inserted] At Longroft I was shown a number of arrow heads,
a flat bronze celt and a flanged one, a nice
flint adze abour 3 ins. [inches] long and a large black
flint scraper or knife all found near there. A
large bronze medieval pot on three feet with the
remains of an iron tripod was found in a glen
on the hillside behind the hillock.
ways similar to the Black dyke near Abbey
St. Bathans. A curious feature of this
camp is the berm on the S. [South] side against
the rampart produced by the conver:
:gence of the outer and middle ramparts near
the S.W. [South West] corner.
Hitloch at Longcroft
Close to Longcroft farm is a conical mound
about ? 50 ft. [feet] high. On the summit of it some
years ago were found a cist containing a
food vessel & burnt burial and also a cinerary
urn without a cist. The hillock is composed of
rock & has been entirely quarried away on
the W. [West] side. Round the remaining side about
30 feet below the summit passes a
flat terrace about 22 ft. [feet] broad. At the
base between the hill and the burn which
flows past two sides is a flat haugh. On
the West side are numerous indications
of foundations as if a considerable village
had existed here at one time. Has this
been a mote? It bears no particular
name. Mr. Dickenson entertained us to
tea & we got home about 6.30. I am
pleased to have got 2 fresh monuments.
12 Augt. 1908
My plans all upset by a letter from the
shooting tenant asking me to avoid Channelkirk camps
this week. Met the Schoolmaster at 9.30 & bicycled
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[Continued from page 48]
to old Thirlestane Castle. Only the S. [South] wall of the
Old Thirlestane E. [East] of Lauderdale
main keep remains standing & the wing which is
square to the outside & has contained a circular
stair. The masonry is exceptionally poor
chiefly rough, undressed water stones. The dimen:
:sions of the main tower have been 33 ft. [feet] by 24 externally
& of the wing 11 ft. 6 in. [11 feet 6 inches] by 14 ft. 5 in. [14 feet 5 inches] broad. The walls are
3 1/2 ft. [feet] thick. The circular foundation referred to
has an internal diameter of 18 ft. [feet] and a depth of
6. Towards the edge of the ravine it is open. Has it
been a lime kiln?! The camp on Thirlestane
Camp Thirlestane Hill.
hill is in an impenetrable fir wood. The description
seems accurate. The outer rampart is in places
6 ft. [feet] high; the entrance apparently at the S.E [South East] &
the inner rings only from 2 to 3 ft. [feet] high composed of
earth and stone. The camp at Heugh.
Fort at Heugh.
answers to the description. The rampart at N. [North]
end is 6 ft. [feet] high. The row of squarish slight
hollows etc. in rear of the scarp I am satisfied
are caused by the carting away of the stones of
the rampart for dykes. The entrance which
is indefinite was probably at the S. [South] extremity
of the rampart. Blythe Camp seems to cor:
Fort at Blythe .
:respond to description. The ramparts are very
low, it is overgrown with coarse grass and
no foundations were observable. The Haerfaulds
About a dozen hutcircles still quite distinct. Some
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[Continued from page 50]
Haerfaulds.
undoubtedly recessed in the wall. The general
breadth of the wall where the faces can be seen
is about 12 feet. A stone wall runs across the
enclosure in the N. [North] half. The other observations
may be accepted. From there a 2 miles walk
brought us to Thirlstane Steading where a glance
of the gable end of the hospital was sufficient.
Mr. Bruce refreshed us & I hastened back to visit
Thirlstane Castle.
Thirlstane Castle. I found it mostly as des:
:cribed. The ceilings are magnificent. Lady
Lauderdale considers that they were made by
Dutch Artists and that they are carved wood.
I was shown all over the house & had tea.
Lauder Church
Lauder Church I visited next & could add
nothing to the existing description. At the
Manse I was shown two flagons and two
goblets the communion cups presented by
the Duchess dated 1677 and engraved with the
Lauderdale arms. This has been a dry day
but dull. I walked much & had little bicycling
to do. I got a description of the cave at
Braidshaw rig from Scott an old gamekeeper
who had seen it from which I incline to
think it was an earth house. It was dug
out of the earth, straight for about 30 ft. [feet] &
then turned to the left. It was on the right
bank of the Braidshaw rig burn about 1/2 m [mile] from farm & seems to
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[Continued from page 52]
have fallen in & disappeared
13 Augt. 1908.
One of the finest days of a fine year. Drove with
Mr. McConochie to Burnhouse. Called at the farm
but Mr B.[--] out. The site of Burncastle is behind
Burncastle Fort.
the steading – up the hill in a plantation which has
at one time been ploughed & in the field to the N. [North]
is the site of a camp. Only in the wood are
there any visible remains, and that at the S.W. [South West] of
the fort where the defences consist of an inner
ditch & without a parapet to the scarp & 2 ramp:
:arts with intervening ditches. The measurement
overall from crest to crest 110 ft. [feet]. The inner ditch
48 ft. [feet] across & 3 ft. [feet] deep, the next. 32 ft. [feet] across & 7 ft. [feet]
deep & the next. 30 ft. [feet] across and 6 ft. [feet] deep. The ramparts
extend for about 75 yds [yards] & are very faintly discernible
elsewhere. A clamber down a steep bank over
the ? Wester burn & up the hill side brought us to
Dalshood Fort. O.S. [Ordnance Survey] Dalshead
Dalshood fort. It too has been much ploughed down.
It seemed well described. A section at the N.E. [North East]
showed that from crest to crest the defences were
65 ft. [feet] across. The inner ditch 26 ft. [feet] across & 4 ft. [feet]
deep, the middle rampart 15 ft. [feet] across with a
hollow or groove running along the centre 2 ft. [feet] deep, the
outer ditch 24 ft. [feet] wide & 8 ft. [feet] deep. on the inside
& 3 ft. [feet] against the counterscarp There appears to
have been an entrance through the outer rampart
at the S.E. [South East] but it is not certain. Otherwise as described
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[Continued from page 54]
Stone Circle N. [North] of Dalshood.
About 1 Mile North by East, 60º of the pillar on Dalshood and
almost in a direct line between it and the pulpit
cairn which is visible on the horizon is situated
a stone circle It is formed of rather small stones
of which 32 seem still to be in situ. None of them
protrude more than a couple of feet above the ground,
though one or two of them which appear to have fallen
must have been higher when upright.
The stones are all firmly embedded in the soil. Seven feet within
the circle South of a stone in the circumference a little
E. [East] of N. [North] lies a prostrate hogbacked stone 3 ft. [feet] long &
about 2 ft [feet] broad. A line over it almost due S. [South] from the nearest
stone in the circle leads between two stones standing up on
the skyline 200 ft. [feet] distant. It is almost a complete
circle with a diameter of 140 ft. [feet]. About 80 ft. [feet]
due North of the most northerly stone of the circle are the remains
of a cairn the stones from which have been partially removed. 200 ft. [feet]
due S. [South] of the circle is apparently the site of another cairn
marked by two large standing stones within 4 ft. [feet]
of each other. The larger is 3 ft. [feet] high, 3 ft. [feet] broad and
about 15 in. [inches] thick thinning away to the upper end, sunk firmly in the ground and
marked on the W. [West] face with a number of cup-
-marks which are probably natural. The
mark near the top is about 3 ins [inches] across, circular, 2 ins. [inches] deep
& undercut at the edge. Another directly below
it near the foot is also 3 ins. [inches] across, & 2 ins. [inches] deep
is undercut & has a countersunk depression in the
centre. The stone is the ordinary greywacke.
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[Continued from page 56]
1) It is probable these two stones have formed part of
a cist which lay within the cairn, they are, however, very
heavy & stand quite upright. About 200 yds. [yards]
S by E [South by East] of the circle is an area conspicuous by the
growth of benty grass and extending to about 5 or 6
acres. All over this area are protruding pointed
stones about 2 ft. [feet] high not inserted very deeply in the ground
all being movable. Here
and there it seems possible to make out a circle
but without a complete survey of the site it is
impossible to come to any definite conclusion
[Opposite page - text inserted] 1. On re-examining these stones with Dr. [Doctor] Bryce on
31st. Oct. 1908. we concluded that they had not
formed part of a cist but as they were set in the
ground at a slight converging angle it is possible
they formed part of a small circle
Burrastoun Lair
2) It bears the name of Burrastoun Lair. At the S.E [South East]
end is a rectangular foundation enclosing
an area 90 ft. x 60 ft. [90 feet x 60 feet].
[Margin] (3) A short distance to the S.W. [South West] is the outline of another
similar structure.
One or two pointed stones project
for a couple of feet or so from the enclosing bank which is 6 ft. [feet]
broad and a foot or so high. About 20 yds. [yards] SE [South East] of
this foundation are apparently the remains of
another excavated cairn. This place is most
peculiar. The character of the stones is so similar
to those in the adjacent circle in size & position
point upwards in the ground that one cannot divest
oneself of the idea that they have some connection.
On the other hand the absence of heather from
the area & the rectangular foundation seem to
suggest a more modern explanation. This
was one of the finest days I have been out on.
[Opposite page - text inserted] 2) The fact that the stones are not deeply sunk in
the peaty soil, are not of considerable size
and more or less are along the outer limits
of the area of benty grass whereon are the
remains of two rectangular structures, on
the very foundations of which some of these
stones are set, drove us to the conclusion
that they have no connection with the
prehistoric remains in their vicinity.
The heather was in full bloom & the sun shone
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from a cloudless sky all day. In the Rev. [Reverend] Mr. McConochie
the parish minister I found a most interesting & sympath:
:etic companion. Meaning to be back to lunch about
3.0 we went poorly provided with victuals and we
were two weary wanderers that crawled into Lauder
about 6.0’clock – too late even for tea! There are said
to be many adders on the moors especially near the
Haerfaulds but I have not seen one. I was too tired
to write up all my notes last night & they have been finished.
before breakfast this morning (14 Aug.).
14 Augt. 1908 Chester Hill Fort Lauder
Accompanied by the schoolmaster visited
Chester Hill Fort on the golf course, at Lauder.
The interior & S.W. [South West] sides have been much destroyed
by quarrying and the ramparts pulled to pieces
for stones. On the East the two ramparts are
distinct, measure from crest to crest
about 50 ft. [feet] and are about 3 ft. [feet] high. They appear
to have been of stone and there does not seem
to have been a ditch. There are a number of
depressions in the interior & outcropping stones
about them but the quarrying has rendered the
the plan very indefinite. The (?) Coldshiels
plantation about 1/2 m. [mile] to the S. [South] which was said
to contain a camp showed no vestiges of anything
of the sort. at Muircleuch on the North side of a glen
about 1/4 mile from the farm of that name are the
remains of a peel tower and of a number of buildings
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Muircleuch
probably of more recent date. The tower whose walls
are reduced to a few feet in height measured
32 ft. by 24 ft. [32 feet by 24 feet] and the walls 4 ft. [feet] thick. Built of large
undressed boulders with very heavy stones at the
corners. No architectural features remain.
Whitslade
Returned to Harryburn to lunch & left Lauder
on bicycle at 2.20. Whitslade is prettily
situated on the left bank above the Leader. Its measure:
:ments may be taken from description but the
directions given are wrong. The door has been
on the E [East] side and the windows on the West.
Above the doorway has been a square shaft from
the room above. Not a corner stone remains
& the facings around the tower portion of the
walls have been almost entirely removed. A
few miles nearer Earlston on a hill called the
Cover hill on the farm of Birkenside are the
remains of a fort marked “site” on the Ord. S. [Ordnance Survey].
Cover Hill Fort Birkenside Hill
The field was under a crop of oats but two
concentric ramparts and an intervening ditch
somewhat to the east of the centre of the field
& curving round towards the South
were quite apparent. A labourer cutting thistles
assured me that no more was visible when the
field was not in crop. He also asserted that
similar remains were visible in the second
Rymer's Tower
field to the North West. Rymers Tower at Earlston
is an ivy covered ruin consisting of the
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the S.W. [South West] end of a keep 23 ft. [feet] across, and of about
10 ft. [feet] of the West wall. Its elevation is about 20 ft. [feet].
The lower chamber has been vaulted and about
5 ft. [feet] from the ground project corbels which supported
beams for a floor. About 8 ft. [feet] up is a small square
window through the vaulting. The tower is the
property of the Edinburgh Borderers Association.
The walls are 4 ft. [feet] thick. Rode on to Priorwood
for the night.
15 Augt. 1908. Greenlaw Church
Left Melrose by train about 11.0 meeting John Stevenson
who came from Peebles. Greenlaw Church we found
as described, the tower alone being of interest. It
is a square red tower with a projecting parapet sup:
:ported on double corbels with a small square turret
in rear containing the staircase which is a “turnpike”.
The windows of the tower are all heavily barred and
there is a massive grill for the basement door, all
which bear out the statement that the tower formed
the town jail. The old town cross with a Corin:
:thian capitol surmounting a hexagonal
column sit on a solid square base stands against
the wall at the West end. The only ancient tombstone
of particular interest is used to cover a ventilating
chamber against the outer wall at the N.E [North East] end. It has incised on it
a Latin cross with the ends of the arms ending obliquely
on a calvary step and the letters, (at the top)
AH – IL. It is said to have come from one of the
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old floors discovered beneath the present one when
the church was rebuilt. Of Greenlaw castle or
the Tenandry house nothing but the names remain.
The Chesters
Of the Fort at the Chesters, (Fogo no.2) near Marchmont
on the South adjacent to the farm steading an
inner rampart a ditch and counterscarp about
65 ft. [feet] apart are still apparent and continuing in a
curve westward for about 100 yards. The ditch
is still about 6 ft. [feet] deep below the top of the counterscarp
& the rampart about 3 ft. [feet] above the bottom of the ditch.
Chesterbrae
The fort has evidently been circular following on the
N, & N.W. [North & North West] of the hill. Of the fort at Chesterbrae
there is no sign remaining. A few mounds on the
bank marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map I do not think have
belonged to a fort. Polwarth Church stands
Polwarth Church.
at the side of the beautifully wooded park in front
of Marchmont Ho. [House] It is a picturesque little edifice
built or reconstructed in 1703. The doors and windows
on the S. [South] side have neat (?) ogee mouldings and
three or four large slabs with Latin inscriptions have
been inserted into the wall. At the East end an
open grill gives a view into the interior of the
vault occupied by the coffins of the Earls of
Marchmont & the retreat of Sir Patrick Hume where
he was succoured by his heroic daughter Grissel.
To the S. [South] of the entrance gate in the churchyard
has been erected an ancient fort. It is cylindrical
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1 ft. 9 in. [1 foot 9 inches] in height. 2’. 4” in external diameter, 1 ft. [foot] 10”
in internal diameter, with a deep basin.
Redbraes.
Marchmont Ho. [House] we were hospitably entertained to
tea by Miss Campbell & taken to see the remains
of Redbraes Ho. [House]. There are two low wings now
occupied as offices which present no features
of particular interest. Train from Marchmont
to Reston at 4.30 & so home by bicycle. Very tired after
a hard week’s work & looking forward to the
rest of the Sabbath. The weather continues magnificent.
17. Augt. 1908.
With John Stevenson left St. Abbs at 7.45 to catch train
for Cockburnspath at 8.57. but on getting to Reston found
that the train only went on Wednesdays! Re-arranging our
plans we breakfasted in an uninviting public house and
thereafter set off on foot for Buncle Edge. A cool grey
day. good for walking. In about one hour’s time we reached
Warlaw Bank. The camp which has been much
ploughed down is situated in the corner of an
old grass field not far from the farm. The description
& measurements seemed accurate. The distance
from the crest of the inner to that of the middle
rampart at the N.E [North East] end is about 40 ft. [feet] and
from that of the middle to that of the outer
about 30 ft. [feet]. An old roadway leads S.E [South East]
known as the Theif’s road to the Marygoldhill
plantations. The first fort we inspected is
situated near the extreme N.E. [North East] end of the
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Marygoldhill plantation and about 120 yds. [yards] S.W. [South West] of
the public road. The description of it seemed
accurate. On the S.W. [South West] the defences from the crest
of the rampart to the crest of the couterscarp
measured about 22 ft. [feet]. The trench at its deepest
about 5 or 6 ft. [feet] below the crest of the mound.
Where the character of the rampart was disclosed
by the blowing over of a tree it was seen to be
of earth and stone. To the S.W. [South West] of the fort
a straight entrenchment runs N,N.W [North North West] as described
passing the ditch of the fort at a distance
of 34 ft. [feet] at its nearest point. The next fort
No. 8 on the map is situated in a plantation of
young fir trees which made it an impossibility
to follow the outline of the ramparts except in a
few places. The rampart which appeared to be
of stone at the S. [South] end is about 9 ft. [feet] above the
bottom of the ditch. Fort No. 9 also situated in
a wood was overgrown with fern but its
outline clearly discernible. It appears to be
an irregular oval with a rather straight
side on the N.W. [North West]. From the S.W. [South West] corner to the
N.E. [North East] corner it is contained by a single rampart
& ditch and round the remainder by a double
rampart & ditch though on the S.E. [South East] the outer
rampart has been interfered with by the wall
of the plantation which is set upon it. There
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appears to have been an entrance at the S. [South] corner
which has a flanking defence
on the N.W. [North West] extending for a considerable distance
into the interior. On the S. [South] West side from crest
to crest of rampart the distance is about 33 ft. [feet]
the inner mound is 7 ft. [feet] above the bottom of the
ditch and the outer 6 ft. [feet]. At the N.E [North East] corner
the rampart has been removed and a cradling
of boulders on which it has been laid is exposed
for a breadth of about 5 ft. [feet]. The ramparts are
of earth and stone. The whole is overgrown
with brackens. 1
[Opposite page - text inserted] 1 The description of the large enclosure to the
N. [North] of fort No. 8 seems fairly accurately des:
:cribed. It is bounded by a mound ditch
about 19 feet across from crest to crest. The
ditch in places 4 to 5 ft. [feet] deep. From the West
corner of the enclosure an ancient track con:
:sisting of an irregular mound about 14 ft. [feet] across
and a trench in places 3 ft. [feet] below the crest of the
mound runs Nor. [North] Westwards across the moor. Its
direction in contrast to that of the trench & en:
:closure is irregular. Though the mound of the
enclosure cuts it at the West corner its mound continues
on the S.W. [South West] side of the trench of the latter.
A similar track & bank though less noticeable
is to be seen across the plantation to the S.W. [South West]
of the last and runs through the heather in a
S.W. [South West] direction.
Time did not permit of a visit
to Prestoncleuch so we made our way to Bunkle
Church. I called on the minister, Mr. Mair, and
explained my errand, whereupon he accompanied
us. The apsidal remains of the church are as
described by Mr. Ferguson except that the
window on the North is not discernible as it
has been built up and a growth of ivy on
the outside prevents any indication of it being
observed on that side. Its presence has been
ascertained by "picking on the inside.
The mason marks are simple and large.
Of Bunkle Castle only the lower portion of
the West wall remains. It is 5 ft. [feet] thick and is
situated on a knoll partially surrounded
by a deep moat. Desirous to get back
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5 miles to Reston we did not accept Mr. Mair’s
hospitality. A visit to the site of the fort to the
N.N.E. [North North East] of Marygold farm accompanied by the
farmer & his wife, a nice young couple, showed
the outline still quite apparent in an old
grass field. It appears to have been an
almost circular fort enclosed with a
single rampart and ditch having a diameter
of about 220 ft. [feet] from crest to crest as far as
now ascertainable as it has been much
ploughed over. The farmer & his wife whose
name I believe is Calder, persuaded us to stay
to tea which as we were too late for the ‘bus from
Reston, we did. Glad to get home at 7.45 having
driven from Reston.
18th Augt. 1908. C’dingham [Coldingham] Loch No.11.
A cold breeze from N.E [North East] and drifting mist. About
10.20 set out with Stevenson & Macdonald to inspect
the Coldingham Loch forts. I think the high pressure
of the last fortnight is telling on me somewhat and I
do not have my usual energy. Through fields of
turnips & wet grass we found our way to fort No.11 of
the parish on a slight eminence much dilapidated with
quarrying and overgrown with whins. It appears
to have been encircled by a single rampart
of earth and stone forming an irregular oval
only on the West and East is it now really recognisable.
About 1/3 of a mile N.N.W. [North North West] in a clump of trees close to the
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Enclosure at Westloch House
West of Westloch house is an enclosure contained
within two circular mounds showing an interior diameter
of 40 ft. [feet] and an external one of about 130. The rings are
not concentric as the inner one is much nearer the
outer at the entrance on the N. [North] than at the opposite side
At the entrance the outer mound is 10 ft [feet] across the inner
4 ft [feet] and the space between them 7 ft. [feet]. The inner mound
is low and unimportant while the outer is in places
3 – 4 ft. [feet] high. There is a slight continuous depression on
either side of the outer mound and the outside of
the inner. The outer mound is of earth & stone. This object
is not indicated on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] map. 1/3 of a mile N.W. [North West]
and about 200 yds [yards] S. [South] of the N.W. [North West] end of the loch is a
small fort almost rectilinear with a diameter from
N. to S. [North to South] of 132 ft. [feet] and from E. to W. [East to West] of 89 ft. [feet]. The entrance
is near the middle of the W. [West] side & is about 6 ft. [feet] wide
It is surrounded by a single low mound with no
ditch. The West half of the enclosure is
occupied by a number of irregular depressions with
low banks into one of which the entrance opens.
This fort No. 7. on map was not discovered by Dr. [Doctor] Christison.
Fort No. 8. Coldingham
Fort No. 8 about 150 yds. [yards] N.N.E. [North North East] of the East angle of
Coldingham Loch, occupying the summit of a
rocky knoll very steep & rugged on the N. [North] side.
It is circular to oval in form having a single
rampart along the edge of the rocks on the N. [North]
and a triple rampart with a ditch between the
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middle & outer ramparts on the remainder of
the periphery. The entrance is at the S.E. [South East] and
passes between a number of circular foundations
with an internal diameter of 16 or 18 ft. [feet]. These
circles are constructed in the ramparts and
between them, the two outer ramparts on the E [East] being much
interrupted by them. At the S.W. [South West] the
ditch is 9 1/2 ft. [feet] below the intermediate rampart
and 3 ft. [feet] below the outer one, while the inner
rampart is only about 2 ft. [feet] high. From crest to
crest the defences at the S.W. [South West] measure 56 ft. [feet] i.e. 24
from inner to intermediate crest & 32 from the latter
to the outer. Dr. [Doctor] Christison has noted one hut
circle in the interior but there appears to have been
at least another in the N.E. [North East] beside the rampart.
Interior dimensions 170 x 125 ft. [feet]. The ramparts are
of earth & stone. No. 9 About 400 [?] yds. [yards] E.S.E. [East South East] of
the E [East] angle of the loch. This is marked “fort” on
the Map, but, its use as such is doubtful. It is
an oval or circular enclosure with a deep de:
:pression in the centre surrounded by a single
rampart of considerable size with an entrance
at the N.E. [North East]. It is much overgrown with whins.
The rampart seems to be of earth & stone. The
enclosure is at the foot of a low knoll on its W. [West] side
& completely commanded from the top. Forts
Nos. 12 & 13 are in the middle of fields of growing
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[Margin] (see later)
corn and could not be visited. Being wet with the
mist & rain we returned at 2.30. Stevenson left,
Coldingham Priory.
and after tea Sandy & I visited Coldingham
Priory. Mr. Lamont the minister was from home
but we obtained the keys and found everything
as described. The interior is very beautiful and
fortunately the modern stain glass in the windows
is excellent. Just beyond the Western end of the
building lie two stone slabs: 1 surrounded with a
flat bead is 6.’7” long, 2.’4” broad at head and
1.’8” at base and bears in Gothic characters the words.
“Ernaldus Prior”, The other 6.’2” long, 1.’9” broad at
head and 1.’3” at foot has been badly broken but
the missing portions have been made up with
cement. The edges are chamfered and it is in:
:scribed “Radulphus Prior de Coldingham”.
To the N. [North] of the two stones lies a stone coffin imperfect at one side 8 ft. [feet] long
2.’7” at head, 2’ at foot with a recess for the head.
There are a number of stones set against the West
wall of S. [South] transept. Besides those described in my note
book there are five, four of them bearing incised
crosses having the ends of the arms cut diagonally
and one with a plain Latin cross & sword.
One or two of the five bear shields with arms,
but they were difficult to
decipher.
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19th Augt. 1908.
A damp foggy morning. Left at 10.0 & bicycled towards
Cockburnspath (or Co’path as it is pronounced), to see
two tumuli marked as existing on the Moor above
Head Chesters & to work round by Penmanshiel.
(Co’path [Cockburnspath] No. 7)
The tumuli when I reached them after wading through
wet grass & heather, were of small account. The one
to the West had been excavated, no one in the vicinity
knew when, and the other was an inconspicuous
mound whose stony head just protruded from
the heather. Head Chesters being a humble house of re:
:freshment I regaled myself with a couple of tumblers of
milk while I endeavoured to extract information from
the owner of the cow. He informed me that there were
clear traces of a camp on Meikle Black Law about
1 mile back on my road. I shall try to take it on my
Meikle Black Law locally known as Bell Hill
way to Fast Castle. Leaving the main road at Old
Cambus School I took an execrable track named on
my map the “Laird’s Road”, to Penmanshiel. Green:
:side well (No. 12) showed nothing of interest. 3/4 mile
further on I turned aside along the moor to “Andrew’s
Cairn”. It is a low mound of considerable extent,
overgrown with whins. Some stones protrude from
the top of it and it has the appearance of having
been excavated. A mile on brought me to the
Penmanshiel Forts etc.
sites of forts on Penmanshiel. The first site (No. 16)
in a turnip field revealed nothing. The next
in the adjacent grass park “The Chesters” to the
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[Opposite page - text inserted] On the opposite side of the valley the sites of
forts Nos. 15 & 19 were in a corn field and there
was no sign of them in the crop. In the W. [West] corner
of the field were the remains of cairn which the farmer
at Penmanshiel told me he himself had excavated when
in want of large stones! He had found a cist but
it contained nothing. This I did not visit. He also
assured me that nothing was visible on site of
fort No. 14. As to site No. 18 he knew nothing.
South showed no signs of a fort but I was informed that whenever the field was ploughed coins were found. In the wood, however
the outline of a circular fort with a single stoney
& now insignificant mound & with a diameter from
crest to crest of about 120 ft. [feet] was still apparent. At the
farm the farmer engaged in entering a family of young
kittens to kill mice as a stack was being taken down,
received me kindly. In Penmanshiel wood near Sister
Path he showed me the ruins of wall running E [East]
& W. [West] 80 or 100 yds. [yards] S. [South] of the fort in the wood. He believed
it was traceable right across the Lammermoors!
Of the tumuli 16, 17, 20, & 21 there is of course now no
sign. “Winding Cairn” No. 15 in Coldingham Parish
shows a ring of piled up stones the remains of a large cairn
76 ft. [feet] or so in diameter, the interior of which has long
ago been entirely removed. The farmer gave me good
company to the cairn & back & set me on my road
Houndwood.
To Houndwood. Houndwood is a white harled
house much modernised though in great part
of considerable antiquity. Internally the
old portion still remains recognisable though a
modern front has been built on the N. [North] side.
The old house has been an oblong structure 83 ft. [feet]
in length and 21 ft. 8 ins. [21 feet 8 inches] in breadth externally, having
walls 4 ft. [feet] thick. There is a turnpike stair from
the basement in the N.E. [North East] corner and another
small stair on the thickness of the wall leads
from the 1st. floor to the basement at the N.W. [North West] corner.
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The basement is vaulted throughout. Miss Coulson
the owner, a venerable lady of 90, received me most
kindly, showed me a beautiful miniature by Cosway,
some fine old tapestry hangings & other treasures.
She also could recall vividly the life at Houndwood
in the first half of the 19th century before the coming
of the railways. She was quite the most alert & interesting
old lady of her years I have ever met. Home
about 6.30.
21st. Augt. St. Abbs Kirk
Feeling very unwell & not fit to go far. Visited in
forenoon the remains of St. Abbs Kirk and of the
Chapel, which is supposed to mark the site of
St. Ebba’s Nunnery. The former on the summit
of a headland to the S.E. [South East] of the lighthouse on St. Abbs
is contained within a low mound formerly enclos:
:ing a graveyard. The grass covered foundations
disclosing only a small amount of masonry on the
N. [North] side of the Chancel show the remains of chancelled
building as described. (Notes p. [page] 6). The stones which for:
:merly stood in the graveyard are said to have
been thrown over the cliffs many years ago by
the farmer to remove an object for visitors crossing
his land. The chapel at St. Ebbas to the N.W [North West]
of the lighthouse presents more interest. It is
St. Ebba’s chapel
situated on a headland joined to the land
by a narrow neck and over a ridge at its
base sloping gradually seaward. In a se:
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:cluded nook sheltered by fringing rocks lie the
remains of the chapel. They are as described (notes p. [page] 6.)
showing a building apparently with a chancel narrow:
:er than the nave. In the recess at the W. [West] end the
masonry of rubble is exposed to a height of about 3 ft. [feet].
The neck of the promontory is traversed by a deep ditch
having on the west of the scarp the remains
of a thick mortar built wall.
21st. Augt.
Not so well. Have had to summon a doctor who considers
I am suffering from a slight attack of ptomaine pois:
:oning. I suspect my breakfast at Reston on Monday.
22nd. Augt.
Incapable of doing anything.
23rd. Sunday
Better but still suffering from Nausea.
24th. Augt.
Forts on Dowlaw road.
Feeling a little better but still weak. Hired a trap after
lunch for Fast Castle & took the two forts
(Co’path [Cockburnspath] 5 & 6) en route. No. 5. Shows the very partial
remains of a large fort much reduced by
ploughing. Only a portion of the defences at the
S.E [South East] is visible. They have apparently consisted
of a single rampart of earth & stone, and a
ditch. From counterscarp to crest of rampart
the measurement is about 20 ft. [feet] and the base of the
rampart measures about 18 ft. [feet]. The rampart is
curved and is about 2 ft. [feet] high at most. There
are faint traces of its continuance in the field
to the North but the outline is indefinite.
There appears to have been an entrance at the South.
No. 6. on the Dowlaw Road is a small oval
fort occupying the seaward termination of a
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ridge at the North Western extremity of Coldingham
Common. It is encircled by a single rampart of
earth and stone supplemented on the S. [South] side where the
ground is level, by a ditch. It measures from
crest to crest internally 145 ft x 102 ft. [145 feet x 102 feet]. The ditch is
20 ft. [feet] across and the rampart low except at
one point at the N.W. [North West] where abutting on an out:
:crop of rock it is about 4 ft. [feet] high. The whole
is covered with a thick growth of heather. The
position of the entrance is not quite evident.
Driving on to Dowlaw farm we walked thence to
Fast Castle
Fast Castle. To the description (Notes p. [page] 41) there is
nothing really to add. The remains of masonry which
must have encircled the edge of the promontory are
still visible for a few feet in height at the top of
the precipitous cliffs on the W. [West] side. This is
one of the most picturesque places I have visited.
The steep banks that slope up from the
top of the cliffs that here margin the ocean are
just now purple with heather and the cornfields
behind them are golden, almost ripe for harvest.
Against the blue sea on the summit of a promon:
:tory, so lofty & narrow that a false step might at
any moment launch you into eternity, stand up
the few crumbling remnants of Fast Castle.
25th Augt.
The weather has broken down and as I
do not yet feel strong enough to do a good
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day’s work I am going to take a rest for the present.
26th Augt.
Examined the unrecorded grave slabs at Coldingham
Priory. Of these there are four set against the West wall
of what I take to be the South Transept. The first stone
at the N. [North] end of the wall bears incised on its surface
within a border a plain Latin Cross with a very short upper arm.
Beneath the right arm is a hunting horn stringed
(not on a shield) and on the opposite side of the
cross a sword with a round pommel and
straight quillons. The slab is 6 ft. 1 ins [6 feet 1 inch] in height
above the ground and 2 ft. 9 ins. [2 feet 9 inches] in breadth. The
entire length of the sword 3 ft. 10 ins. [3 feet 10 inches] and of the blade 3 ft. 3 ins. [3 feet 3 inches].
No. 2. Within a border bears a Latin cross with the
ends of the arms “couped” obliquely. Beneath the
right arm is a shield charged with a cock ap:
:parently passant ? proper. on the opposite side a
sword with a round pommel and straight quillons
sloped downwards. Length of the slab 5 ft. 6 ins: [5 feet 6 inches]: breadth
3 ft. 3 ins. [3 feet 3 inches]. Both slabs of white freestone.
No. 3 A similar slab 5 ft. 6 ins x 2 ft. 6 ins [5 feet 6 inches x 2 feet 6 inches] much weathered
& broken showing a cross as on No. 2 but no arms
or sword.
No. 4 A similar slab 5 ft. 7 ins. x 2 ft. 6 ins. [5 feet 7 inches x 2 feet 6 inches] broken and
mended, shows a cross similar to No. 3 and a
sword but no sign of armorial bearings.
This turned out a thoroughly wet afternoon & evening.
Note the above crosses have all calvary steps.
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[Continued from page 92]
27 Augt. 1908
Fort No. 13 situated about 3/4 mile due South of
St. Abbs Head occupies the N.W. [North West] end of a
rocky knoll which projects from a cultivated field. It
rises gradually from the level of the field and at
the N.W. [North West] is about 40 feet above it. The fort is enclosed by
a single rampart of earth & stone which follows
the edge of the summit except where it is crossed
and is oval form.
The entrance is at the So. [South] East. The internal diameters
are 178 ft. x 90 ft. [178 feet x 90 feet] from crest to crest. To the left of the
entrance the rampart is still about 4 ft. [feet] above the
level of the interior. There are several somewhat
indefinite foundations in the interior. One depression 14 ft. [feet] inward
from the crest of the S.W. [South West] rampart appears to be oval
or oblong in form 13 ft. [feet] in breadth x about 40 ft. [feet] long. There
seems to be a circle on the right of the entrance and
another nearer the centre & against the N.E. [North East] rampart.
There are a number of indefinite mounds and
hollows outside on the rise of the knoll from the
S.E. [South East]. The two terraces at the N.W. [North West] are as noted by Dr. [Doctor]
Christison.
Fort No 12. At the top of an elevated field about
1/2 a mile W by S. [West by South] of St. Abbs Head. In form a squarish
oval surrounded by a single delapidated rampart of earth stone & having a diameter from crest to crest of 158 ft. x 98 ft. [158 feet x 98 feet].
The entrance appears to have been at the S.E. [South East]. From the
S.W. [South West] side of the entrance a bank runs straight into
the interior for a distance of 55 ft [feet] then alters its direction
slightly towards the West for 19 ft [feet] thereafter curving round
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[Continued from page 94]
towards the S.W [South West] rampart. Within the enclosure
thus formed at its N.W. [North West] end is a circular foundation
with an interior diameter of 18 ft. [feet] and there is probably
one adjoining it to the N. [North]. At the N.W. [North West] end of the
main enclosure 8 ft. [feet] distant from the E [East] rampart
is a well defined circle with an interior diameter
of 23 ft [feet] and surrounded by a bank about 5 ft. [feet] across
There is also another circle abutting on the E. [East] rampart.
This completes my inspection of objects in the neighbour:
:hood of St. Abbs. Sandy assisted me in making
measurements. At our first attempt in the afternoon
we were overtaken by a thunderstorm & heavy rain
& hail, which caused us to make a hasty retreat,
but after tea we returned & were fortunately able
to get at both forts as the corn had just been cut.
5th. October.
Splendid weather has enabled me to resume work
in Berwickshire. For some days the temperature
Merton
has been higher than any time this year. Came
to Priorwood on Friday evening. Shot partridges
at Huntlywood on Saturday with Jim, Genl [General] Babington
& Harold Stanton. Birds very plentiful. Got 18 braces
& numerous sundries. Monday morning rode
on bicycle to Merton. The Parish church in a wood
near the mansion house has been twice restored
Above the lintel of the E. [East] door is cut IVLIE. 1658. and
the same date is repeated above a door on the W. [West] side
of the N. [North] wing or nave. Little of the original remains
except a quaint little belfry above the West gable
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[Continued from page 96]
and a large late obtuse pointed window with wooden
tracery in the E. [East] gable. Into the E. [East] wall of the nave
has been built a stone about 1 ft. [foot] long by about 6 or
8 inches deep enriched with good interlaced ornament.
A portion of the jougs is still suspended from the walls between the
2 doorways on the S. [South] side.
On finding my way to the old churchyard I met
Lord Polwarth who received me most kindly and
showed me everything of interest. At the end of
the flower garden below the house stands an
old circular dovecot. It is built in four storeys
counting the base with an aperture for the pigeons
in the centre of the roof. Over the doorway which
is in the basement is a tablet bearing the date
1576. It stands about 30 ft. [feet] high and has a diameter
of about 18 ft. [feet]. Against the basement Lord Polwarth
has placed buttresses to preserve it. In the old
churchyard are the scanty remains of a building
noted by Mr. Ferguson. Little remains except the
E. [East] wall which shows signs of reconstruction.
Besides the floriated cross noted there is leaning
against the So. [South] wall of the ruin a slab 5 ft. [feet] long.
1 ft. 8 in [1 foot 8 inches] broad at the head & 1. ft. 6 in [1 foot 6 inches] at base - with the
letters T.P. incised at the upper end and to the
one side of the centre of the stone an object with a
spear shaped head 4 ins [inches] long and a broad
shaft or stem 3.’6” in length with a rounded extremity.
The edges are chamfered and the corners rounded
There is also a large coped stone with a rounded
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[Continued from page 98]
bead around the flat top and the lower edge of the
chamfered sides & ends. Uninscribed 5 ft. 6 in [5 feet 6 inches] long above ground
1 ft. 10 in. [1 foot 10 inches] broad at head, 1 ft. 4 in. [1 foot 4 inches] at base. & 1 ft. 10 in. [1 foot 10 inches] deep.
About 100 yards from the ? S. [South] end of the house set at
the base of an elm tree as a seat is a slab of sandstone
3 ft. 8 ins. [3 feet 8 inches] in length & about 2 ft. [2 feet] wide with a moulded
edge 7 1/2 ins. [inches] in depth in which occurs a line of rope
moulding. The stone is believed to have come from
the Earth house found at Newstead. (cf. Dr. [Doctor] Smith’s
Illus [Illustration]). Lord Polwarth showed me a beautiful little
cabinet of drawers about 2 ft. [feet] square of ? rosewood in:
:laid with ivory – the fronts of the drawers filled in
with a pattern in ? stained ivory & metal. It belonged
to Mary Queen of Scots. and is said to have come
from Fotheringay through an Elizabeth Drury, into the
Polwarth family. On leaving Merton I called
on Mr. Dodds the schoolmaster, & found on his
mantelpiece two glasses with opaque special
stems and engraved with a heraldic rose and
two natural buds. His wife’s grand’, or great grandfather
was a coachman who eloped with one of Lord
Airlie’s daughters! The same ancestry
as Jane Anderson my nurse who got drunk when
Sandy was an infant. Mightily curious!
[Opposite page - text inserted] On the East side of the road between Dryburgh
& Bemersyde at the top of the hill called the
Redbraes is the plinth or socket stone of a cross.
It is 2 ft [feet] above ground. 2 ft. [feet] square with a
square depression in the middle of the upper
surface – 1 ft. [foot] across and 7-8 ins. [inches] deep.
Got to Dryburgh about 1.30 and eat my lunch outside
the custodians cottage. The old corn mill is a
reconstructed building. with a fine cusped
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[Continued from page 100]
Dryburgh
quatrefoliated window in the gable next the river.
which has probably come from the N. [North] transept of the
abbey where its fellow is still. In the abbey a
few feet out from the S. [South] wall of the S. [South] transept
is a broken grave slab 3’ 8” x 1’ 6” bearing a shield charged
with a bend and two ? mascules – There has probably
been a third which has been broken off. A slab in
the So. [South] wall. bearing the inscription Hic Jacet Honor:
:abilis Vir Adam Robson of Gleddiswod qui obiit
VII [7] Octobris anno domini 155?5. bears a cross on
a calvary the arms terminating in fleur de - lis -
very similar to the cross on slab in Bassendean Church.
The inscription below the coat of arms of the last
abbot is Durum patientia frango –“ (abbreviated.)
A large stone coffin lies in the chancel
having a detached hollowed out block for the
head to rest in. Length 7 ft. [feet]. breadth at head
2 ft. 8 ins. [2 feet 8 inches]. at foot 2 ft. [feet]. depth 1 ft. 5 ins. [1 foot 5 inches]. sides
4 ins [inches] thick. There are in the N. [North] wall of the
presbytery two slabs, one with ivy tendrils carved
over it & another with a (?) cross on it which I expect
are already on record. The ruins appear to me
to be in a very bad state. Many of the voussoirs
of the arches are out of places and the seams
between stones in the tracery etc. are open.
There is no appearance of any work having
been done on the buildings recently. The proprietor
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Black Hill.
Mr. Biber Erskine charges 1/- [£0.1.0] for entry!!
To Cowdenknowes where Col. [Colonel] & Mrs. Hope & Mrs. and
Miss Adrian Hope accompanied me up the Black
Hill. The remains of the camp are very scanty
and Dr. [Doctor] Christison’s description may hold good,
except that the double row of stones around the
summit are not very apparent. At Cowden:
:knowes besides the tower described by Mac:
:Gibbon & Ross, the house itself merits some
description. It has consisted of a central
Cowdenknowes
building of two storeys & a basement with a wing
projecting Southward at either end at right angles.
The gables of the wings are now terminated with crow steps.
About half way up the gable is carried
out on ornamented corbels and on the corbel
table around the E [East] wing there is an inscription
Feir God etc. The inscription begins on the
West face of the wing & has been carried all
round but has in large measure disappeared.
There are two doorways. One in the base of the
S. [South] face of the W. [West] wing above which are the letters
S.J.H and V.K.H and date 1574. and on a pediment above the other
on the W. [West] wall of the E [East] wing which is surmounted
by a monogram which probably stands for
S. James Hume.” On the S [South] side of
the detached tower is the date 1554 which
has been recut. The windows of the house have
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[Continued from page 104]
probably been enlarged since its construction
and other alterations effected on it. On the
bank of the Leader adjacent are the remains
of another tower with two chambers on the first
floor the windows of which are blocked up
and in the floor of one of which there is a
trap door to a cellar beneath.
6 Oct. 1908
Left Melrose at 8.10 arriving at Gordon at
9. o’clock. Bicycled to Westruther The present
parish church is modern but there is within
it set on a wooden stand a round stone
basin or font 11 inches in diameter and 5 ins. [inches]
high, without ornament which was brought
from the old church at Bassendean. The
Old church of Westruther in the middle of the
Churchyard is now only used as a burial
aisle. It is of late date and presents no features
of interest. There are no noteworthy tomb stones
in the churchyard. An old blacksmith, by
name Brownlee, gave me for the museum
a curious old iron candlestick set on a horse
shoe & used by a smith for light which shoeing
a horse. It was ancient when he acquired it
40 years ago. Wedderlie House, now the
property of Mr. William Baird, I found as
described except that it is now all in
habitable condition and good repair. The
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[Continued from page 106]
date 1680 is carved on the lintel of one of the
upper windows on the north front. In the kitchen
the mecanism for turning the spit still remains
with a great stone for a weight but a modern
range had taken the place of the open fire. It
is said Lady John Scott was so annoyed at
this innovation that she never entered the
house after the range was put in!
Evelaw Tower adjoining the farm steading
is also correctly described. It shows evidence
of careful attention the walls being pointed
& kept in order. There is a heavy growth of
ivy on the E [East] and S. [South] walls which may imperil them.
Scones & milk from the steward’s (Brockie’s) wife
were very refreshing. I reached Spottiswoode
about 1. o’clock where Mr. Verdin has kindly
asked me to stay the night. All around
the house are evidences of Lady John’s ec:
:centric tastes. After luncheon I rode my bicycle
to Flass. The camp there is of no moment. It
has been ploughed over and quarried into.
On the E [East] and S. [South] sides are remains of a
broad single rampart probably of earth but
no signs of a ditch. It appears to have been
sub-oval in shape. From there I walked over
the moor to the Twinlaw Cairns. I exam:
:ined several cairns on the way marked on
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[Continued from page 108]
the map but found them to be merely surveyor’s
beacons. The Twinlaw Cairns stand on the
summit to which they have given a name.
They are round cairns of rough whin stones
gathered off the hill having still an altitude
at centre of from 5 to 6 feet above the ground. They are
both surmounted by tall conical beacons
probably the work of Lady John Scott. They are
about 54 paces apart. The most westerly has
a diameter of about 60 feet and that to the
East about 10 feet more. Both have been
excavated (see notes). After my inspection
I found my way over the moor to Rutherford’s
Cairn about 1 mile to the N.W. [North West]. On it was a
beacon but the cairn appeared to me to be
merely a natural outcrop. It is not marked
as an Antiquity on the maps. This has
been a glorious day – with bright sunshine
and a tempering breeze. My walk over the
moor and my bicycle ride in the forenoon,
were most exhilarating. The bloom of the heather
is gone and the brackens have turned a
rusty red. They tell me Black game are in:
:creasing here and Sir Henry Smith told me
same about them at Muselee.
Oct. 7? 1908.
Have been accommodated in Lady John’s room
& passed the night in a huge four poster. The
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[Continued from page 110]
Spottiswoode
house has still a number of nice things in it. Some
fine portraits of bygone Spottiswoodes, the Archbishop
and his wife, the ugliest wife I ever saw, and two
Raeburns. The morning broke very damp and
misty and rain fell about 6.0 for the first time for
a week or ten days. There is much grain still out in
the fields which cannot be led in as there is no
wind to dry it. The font said to preserved here
from Whitechapel is not be found, it has some:
:how disappeared. In the centre of the gable of
the West lodge facing the road way is a window
beneath a pediment surmounted at the apex
by a crescent. The upper angle between the
letters M. I. S. (Mr John Spottiswoode) contains a shield
charged with ? a boar’s head on a chevron between
three trees – and beneath, the inscription mihi vivere
christus et mori lucrum – 1596. The stone is
[Margin] see rough note book
said to have come from the Archbishop’s house
in Glasgow. J. Edington, the land steward,
who superintended many of Lady John’s excavations
is still at Spottiswoode. With his assistance I
discovered in the plantation behind the Stables
to the N. [North] of the house the remains of the pre:
:historic structure which has been described as
a broch. It has been an almost circular
fort with a stone rampart, now entirely broken
down, having a diameter over all of about 123 ft. [feet]
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[Continued from page 112]
from N. to S. [North to South] by about 135 from E to W [East to West]. It was excava:
:ted about the year 1870 and nothing whatever was
found nor were there any indications of chambers
in the walls. Edington had also assisted at the
Twinlaw cairns (2) see antea
excavation of the Twinlaw Cairns about 40 years ago. A few rusty
button like objects were discovered beneath the stones
in the Eastmost cairn – but no cists. or stone.
coffins. The cairns he says were built carefully.
Lady John’s coach, a copy of Napoleon’s, a great
clumsy vehicle with a rumble, in which she went
posting, is still preserved. On the S. [South] gate by which
I left is on each side a clock face indicating
the hour of passing of the London coach North
& South and the hours of arrival at various places
are writ large! I bicycled to Greenlaw & got there
about 1. o’clock. Such a quiet deserted looking
place – The baker pathetically remarked “It’s always
Sunday here,” Leaving my bicycle at the hotel
I walked out to where the old road passing North
Heriot’s Dyke
over Greenlaw Moor cuts Heriots Dyke. To the
E. [East] of the crossing the dyke consists of a broad
flattish mound about 12 ft. [feet] across with a hollow
way running parallel on the North side 6 or
8 ft. [feet] below the crest of the mound. The track
& dyke meander along in just such a fashion as
a hill track – never straight though with a regular
direction E. and W. [East and West]. The action of a stream
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[Continued from page 114]
which at times courses down the hollow, has deepened
it in places. The hollow is from 15 to 18 ft. [feet] across
at the top of the banks and from 3 to 4 at bottom.
[Margin] see as to position of fence on 6” map
To the W. [West] of the crossing and westward of the fence
which runs North from the edge of the cultivated
land there is a double mound on the So. [South] side
divided by a narrow ditch about 3 ft. [feet] across. Both
[Sketch inserted here] the mounds are low, the lower about 2 ft. [feet] above
the bottom of the hollow and the upper a foot or
two higher. The Breadth of both over all at base
about 16 ft. [feet]. [Sketch inserted here] In places the track
is 12 to 14 ft. [feet] below the banks on either side. Its
average breadth is about 12 ft. [feet]. When it
reaches a deep natural glen down which
flows the (?) Snaw burn it disappears.
Blackcastle Rings
[Opposite page - text inserted] A short distance from the N. [North] end edge of the Rampart a
track is visible leading down a slope towards
the water near the junction of the Blackadder
& Fangrist burn.
A short distance below the junction of the
Fangrist burn and the Blackadder on the top
of a scaur which bounds the East side of the
valley is the fort known as the Blackcastle
rings. It is an imposing structure in good
preservation with defences consisting of a rampart
6 ft. [feet] high to the inside 14 ft. [feet] from bottom of ditch on
outside – a ditch 34 ft. [feet] across from crest to crest
a level area 35 ft [feet] broad, a second rampart 3 ft. [feet]
high on inner side & 6 ft. [feet] from bottom of ditch on
outside – a ditch 28 ft. [feet] from crest to crest, and
a low mound on the top of the counterscarp. The
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[Continued from page 116]
[Opposite page - text inserted] See Gibson’s “An old Berwickshire Town” for information about Greenlaw.
description appears to be quite accurate. Of
the tumulus shown on the 6” maps as existing
on the haugh opposite there is not a trace. The
haugh has been long ago ploughed over and
the broad ridges are very apparent. The “site of
Station” near the rifle range disclosed nothing.
The walk down the banks of the Blackadder is
very beautiful. The dark water of the stream ripples
below high scaurs of red crumbling rock and
through fresh green haughs, while on the top of the
banks the moors brown with the faded
heather-blooms stretch back to the cultivable land
to Eastward and to the North are lost in the
misty distance where the Dirringtons loom
out on the horizon. I got back to Greenlaw
too late for the train so bicycled off to Duns
by a splendid road arriving at the Swan Hotel,
about 6.0. The Inn seems comfortable and
I have had a satisfactory dinner with a couple
of Commercial travellers – one in the beer line &
the other in lead pipes & sanitaries! Good fellows
& informative on their own subjects.
8th. Oct. 1908
At the Swan Hotel Duns. A fine morning for a
long expedition to the Mutiny Stones 12 miles off.
Started about 10.30 for Longformacus a drive of
7 miles over high country & down again to the
village by the Dye water. First to the Manse
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[Continued from page 118]
which is situated a long way from the church on the
other side of the valley. Here at the West end of the
garden is the gable of an old house - entirely covered
with ivy on the E [East] side but exposed on the West. It has
formed the East end of some old mansion for the
remains of the windows and a chimney do not
belong to a church. It is possibly a converted tower.
The breadth across the gable is 22 ft. [feet] and the walls
3 ft. 6 ins. thick [3 feet 6 inches]. It is built of large undressed blocks
of whinstone and is about 30 ft. [feet] high. It is of no
importance. The church which is a pretty
little modern building with good stained glass in
its windows is on the opposite side of the Dye
from the little village. Within it towards the
East end of the So. [South] wall about 8 ft. [feet] from the
ground is built in a stone bearing a shield
charged with a curious cross probably meant
for the Sinclair arms (see sketch book) and with the
letters I. S. above the shield. Built into the inner
wall of the porch is a grave slab 2’.7” broad
and 6 ft. [feet] high above ground, bearing within a
border 3 1/2 ins. [inches] wide an incised cross with the
arms “couped” 4 ft. 5 ins. [4 feet 5 inches] long set on a calvary
(see sketch). A portion of the jougs still hangs
suspended from the old chain of 3 long links
& a ring on the S. [South] side of the church towards
the west end. At Rathburne the house of Mr
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[Continued from page 120]
Holmes I learned that there was nothing whatever
visible in the old graveyard on the Watch water.
Wrinklaw.
And by everyone I was informed that there is no
peel tower at Old Scarlaw. Driving towards Byrecleugh
I left the trap about a mile about Rathburne
& descended to the Dye to find the Wrink Law fort
on the opposite side. A mistake as to its position
gave me an extra walk of a mile or so. It appears
to be much as described. About 86 ft. [feet] S. [South] from
the entrance is a ditch about 36 ft. [feet] wide from
crest to crest in front of a mound about 6 ft. [feet]
above its bottom. The mound curves round
to the Southward on the West side to meet the
foundations of the N [North] row of long rectangular buildings
and also on the East towards the glen down
which a burn flows – leaving on its flank at the
edge of the glen the remains of a circular building
with walls about 2 ft. [feet] high and 3 ft. 6 in. [3 feet 6 inches] in width
where both faces are exposed. The internal diameter
is about 8 ft. [feet] and the entrance is towards the
East. There are the remains of several rectangular
buildings in the fort in two contiguous rows
and some circular depressions on the So. E [South East]
face. More modern remains of buildings
are also present. On returning to the trap I
slew an adder on the loose screes of stones
below the fort. I had to take off my shoes etc. to
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[Continued from page 122]
get over the water, a painful operation.) The con:
:cluding four or five miles to Byrecleugh was over
a track and sometimes over open moor till
we reached the Dye when we encountered an
execrable road. I don’t think I ever had such
a jolting. The Houses at Byrecleugh are very
picturesque, harled and thatched. There is said
to be one thatcher in Gordon or Greenlaw, I forget
which, who still plies his craft. I expect the
Mutiny stones.
last of his trade. The Mutiny Stones are situated
on the Pyatshaw Ridge about 3/4 mile north of Byre:
:cleugh shooting Lodge. They form a cairn 278 feet
long running East and West. At the West end the
elevation is not now more than 3 ft. [feet] and the original
breadth still apparent 26 ft. [feet]. At a distance of 98
ft. [feet] from the Western extremity a trench has been
cut through the centre – the breadth here being still
26 ft. [feet]. Proceeding Eastwards the cairn gradually
rises in height and at 218 ft. [feet] it expands in
breadth till towards the extremity it attains a
width of 76 ft. [feet]. It reaches its greatest height at
the East end 11 1/2 feet above the ground level.
It is much dilapidated especially along the
South side where a large sheep fold has been
built out of it, and much of it has from time
to time been carted away for dykes. The
stones of which it is composed are the whin stones
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[Continued from page 124]
of the neighbourhood of all sizes. There is no
outcrop of such stones anywhere adjacent.
In a map prepared by Mathew Stobie in 1794
for the Duke of Roxburgh the monument is called
the “Milton full of Stones”. I was informed by
J. Edington at Spottiswoode that excavation was
done here by Lady John Scott, & Lord Rosehill (afterwards
Lord Southesk) between 1866 and 1870. A trench
was dug across near the centre (probably that re:
:ferred to above) but nothing was found. There
does not seem to have been any thorough ex:
:cavation of the East end. An ancient
track known as the “herring road” crosses Byre:
:cleugh a little West of “White well heads” passing
in a S.W. [South West] direction towards Lauderdale. I
returned in the trap to Dye Cottage, a deserted
shooting lodge belonging to Col. [Colonel] Brown & thence
walked along the Dye skirting the edge of the
moorland & through the birkenshaws beautified
with the tints of autumn on leaf & bracken to
Longformacus where I joined the dogcart &
drove back to Duns getting in about 6.15.
9th Oct. 1908
Left Duns at 10.0 on bicycle for Cranshaws.
The roads rather muddy with the rain of
last night. At Cranshaws (10 miles) I called
first on the Minister who took me to the modern
church where built into the wall inside above
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[Continued from page 126]
Cranshaws
the north door is the stone with the Royal arms
from the old church. After some milk at the
Manse I rode to Cranshaws farm and got
Simpson the keeper who took me to the Castle.
It now belongs to Mr. [--] Smith of Whitchester, a
partner in the firm of William Younger & Co. [Company], brewers,
who bought it about 10 years ago from Lord Morton.
The walls are harled and the whole building
appears to be in excellent order. It is exactly as
described. Enquiry from the keeper and the
shepherd who had been many years on the
ground satisfied me that the few cairns
which are now on Mainslaughter Law are of
no moment and probably modern. Within
the Castle are preserved the pewter communion
vessels of the old church consisting of two cups,
probably 17 cent [century], a large flagon of later date,
an interesting ewer, and 3 platters. Of the
old church situated near the castle only a
portion of the East wall remains & that about
12 ft. [feet] high. It has been a church 64 ft. [feet] long
and 17 ft. [feet] wide externally. There are no grave
stones of great antiquity but several of early
18th century. one to Simon Robertson who died
in 1724 bears a representation of a man in
an elegant frock coat with arms akimbo.
The camp at the end of the Long Plantation
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about 3/4 mile S.S.E. [South South East] of the church is situated largely
inside a fir plantation overgrown with brackens
and to a small extent outside the wood on the West
side. It has apparently been circular but about 1/3
of the periphery on the S. [South] side has entirely disappeared.
Its defences have consisted of a single rampart
probably of stone on a base of 12 – 14 ft. [feet] and a
ditch about 17 ft. [feet] across from crest of scarp
to that of counterscarp and at bottom about 3 ft. [feet]
below the top of the rampart. On the inner side
the rampart only rises slightly above the level of
the interior. The meas. of O.S. [measurements of Ordnance Survey] given in Notes may
be taken – as it was not possible to make a survey.
Returning to the castle I was hospitably entertained
to milk & whisky, scones & cheese by Miss Purdie
sister of the estate manager & a native of Melrose
or Darnick. The proprietor, I was everywhere in:
:formed was much interested in all antiquities so
I was sorry not to have seen him. Returning I
stopped at Ellemford to see the old church.
Only a small portion of the S. [South] wall still remains
visible and the foundations of the other walls
are barely discernible below the rank grass.
There are two grave slabs with inscriptions of
the end of 17 cent. [century] of no particular interest and
one or two other stones with nothing visible on
them lying about. Bicycling on to
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Preston I obtained the services of a small boy at the
blacksmiths to assist me at Prestoncleuch fort, to
which I then walked. It is a remarkably fine
fort in good preservation and correctly described
I made the internal diameter from E. To W. [East to West] 244 ft. [feet]
from N. to S. [North to South] 251 ft. [feet] (these measurements from crest to crest). The breadth of the defences
at the E. [East] end. from crest to crest. 41 ft. [feet] and at the
West end from highest point of inner rampart to highest point
of middle 63 and from crest of middle to that of
outer 43 ft. [feet]. The Inner ditch at the West end was 10 ft. [feet]
below top of inner rampart & 12 below top of middle. and.
the outer ditch 12 ft. [feet] below top of middle rampart
and 9 ft [feet] below top of outer. The height of the
outer rampart on outside 5 ft. [feet]. The interior
is largely overgrown with heather and no founda:
:ions are discernible. As it was getting dusk
I hurried home giving a glance at Preston
Cross in passing (a rectangular shaft of Sandstone
about 5 ft. [feet] high set on a modern base etc.) Back
to Duns at 6.0 rather tired.
16 Oct. 1908
Harryburn. Lauder. At the meeting of the Commission
held on 14th. it having been decided that the inspection
in Berwickshire should be completed I arrived
here yesterday evening. Bicycled to Addinston
for the keeper, whom I subsequently met on the
road near Carfrae Mill & who joined me to point
out the fort on the Kelphope Burn valley. On enquiry
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Herringroad
I learned that the “Herring road” joined the
high road to Lauder near Cleekemin by the
Schoolhouse (see map.) Leaving my bicycle beside a
dyke we proceeded up the Kelphope burn till we
reached on the E. [East] side the foot of the old road which
passing up the hill side round the head of a gully
where among birches & brackens we flushed a large
number of Old blackcock, reached the upper level
in close proximity to the earthwork we sought.
It is situated at the neck of a projecting spur of the Dod
Hill (See map for name etc.) where commence
to N. and So. [North and South] the glens that descend to the valley.
The enclosure appears to have been circular en:
:closing an elevated ridge of rock showing various
considerable and probably natural depressions
on either side. Towards the E. [East] is a well defined
rampart measuring 122 ft. [feet] along its crest, 7 ft. [feet]
high towards the outside and about 2 ft [feet] on
the inner. In front of it is the semblance of
another rampart but now low & indefinite
and in rear is a trench or hollow 36 ft. [feet] across.
Low mounds are visible on the North and South
flanks but are not traceable at the Western
extremity. The Int. [Interior] diameter from E. To W. [East to West] appears to
have been about 223 ft. [feet]. There are no fortifications
visible on the western portion of the spur.
Down the north face a well defined track descends
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to the Kelphope burn. From the same side
and passing round the Western end a low
mound or terrace is visible about 70 ft. [feet] below
the level of the summit, which rises as it passes
towards the S. [South] side of the spur where it is lost.
The flanks & end of the hill are steep and easily defensible.
Tollis Hill.
Leaving the keeper at the burn I proceeded up the
glen and breasting the hill that blocks the end
of it found the camp of Tollis Hill in a grassy
enclosure (?) to the N.W. [North West] of the shepherds House. It
is a fine fort circular in outline, well preserved
towards the West and North but somewhat dilap:
:idated on the S.E. [South East]. It’s defences consist of a
single rampart and ditch and a low parapet
on the top of the counterscarp. The rampart is
stoney but probably of earth & stones, and judging from
the debris on the counterscarp the parapet has
probably been of stone. On the N. [North] where the
defences are best preserved the crest of the rampart is from
12 – 13 ft. [feet] above the bottom of the ditch & 3 – 4 ft. [feet]
above the level of the interior. From its crest to
that of the counterscarp which is 8 or 9 ft. [feet] below
is a distance of 29 ft. [feet]. There is a well preserved
entrance on the W. [West] 6 – 8 ft. [feet] across with the ditch terminating
on either side & the parapet brought round the
ends to meet the rampart. On the N.S.W. and S.E. [North South West and South East] are
other entrances but it is doubtful if they are original.
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That at the S.W. [South West] opens into a large circular hollow
where stones may have been quarried from or it may
have been a cattle pend. There are considerable signs
of circular foundations in the interior some of
which look like cattle folds. The measurement
of the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] may be taken for diameter as I had
no assistant.
Hillhouse
After a long walk down the glen I recovered
my bicycle & reached Hillhouse Farm on the W. [West]
side of the valley. The fort is situated immediately
to the N. [North] of it. It is a large irregular pear shaped
enclosure – which has suffered considerably from
quarrying which still continues. Its site forms the S [South]
termination of Ditcher Hill. Towards the N. [North] where the
ground is fairly level there have been three ramparts;
& on the North West, where the ground rises a ditch.
The outer is at the N.W. [North West] in places about 9 ft. [feet]
high towards the exterior & 3 – 4 ft [feet] on the inside
34 ft. [feet] in rear of it is the second mound which is
low & trifling and 50 ft. [feet] in rear the inner rampart
3 – 4 ft. [feet] high on either side. There have been no
ditches between the 3 ramparts. The three ramparts
at the S. [South] end form terraces round the abrupt
termination of the hill – There are numerous
circular and semicircular excavations in
the interior especially on the E. [East] flank. (Further
details may be taken from descriptions)
Carfrae
Bicycled on to Carfrae (locally pronounced Car’thra’e)
Here after a considerable search in a grassy field
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about 1/2 a mile to the S.E. [South East] of the steading I found
the faint indications of a rampart, on the higher
part of the field just where the wood running up
from the E [East] turns sharply N. [North] The field is regularly
cultivated and the remains are of the slightest.
Thence to Channelkirk where I called on the Rev. [Reverend]
Mr. Allan, author of the history of the parish, and
had tea. Home about 6.0. I have been singularly
lucky in the weather which still continues fine.
Most of the grain is now gathered but I saw a
little near Tollis-hill being led in today.
17 Oct. 1908
Reached Channelkirk Manse on bicycle a few
minutes after 10.0 & started out at once with Mr. Allan.
The church built in the beginning of the 19th cent. [century] is quite
nice. The old Kirk road from Oxton is discernible leading
down the face of the hill across the valley & is said as
an ancient high way to have passed where now the
N. [North] wing of the manse is situated. A considerable walk
up hill brought us to the only visible relics of Roy’s
Roman camp at what must have been the N.W. [North West]
corner of it. At the upper side of a field on Glengelt
farm close to and passing under the Kirktonhill
march dyke are the fragmentary remains of a
rampart which has been much ploughed down.
The stones which along its course protrude from
the surface suggest that it is similar in construc:
:tion to the ramparts of most of the native forts in
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the neighbourhood. Its course Southward beneath the
field dyke is by no means certain – though where the
bank is broken into in one or two places it looks like a ram:
:part. That it was a Roman camp is more
than doubtful. Proceeding Southwards we reached
the Kirktonhill fort situated above the Rauchy glen.
Kirktonhill.
The fort has suffered from cultivation and quar:
:rying and the defences on the ? East and West
have entirely vanished. At the N.E. [North East] point there
are two ramparts and a ditch beyond the
outer one having a slight mound above the
counterscarp. On the E. [East] side
near where the two mounds converge has been
an entrance. In the interior is a circular
enclosure about 62 ft. [feet] in diameter. At the
S. [South] end there are three concentric lines at the
top of the steep bank on the elbow of the hill. The
defences on the W. [West] front are very indefinite. It
is about 570 in length (O.M. Christison). Being per:
:suaded by Mr. Allen to visit a ruin at
Carfrae I bicycled back there. At the end of
the garden adjoining the farm house I
Carfrae
found the remains of probably a 16th cent. [century] dwelling house
existing to the 1st. floor. On the basement are
two appartments, vaulted, the West one having a
fireplace in the W. [West] gable and the E. [East] sharing a
square aperture in the centre of the vault and a
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doorway in the inside at the S.E [South East] corner giving access to a round
tower which had contained the stair case. The
length of frontage is 35 ft [feet] and breadth of E [East] end
including 18 ft. [feet] for diameter of the tower about 30 ft. [feet]. The
masonry is rough unhewn whin and most of
the dressed stones at the corners have been re:
:moved. There has been an outside stair to the
first floor at the W. [West] end. The ruin is of no im:
:portance. Across the Leader valley to Bowerhouse,
pronounced locally Boor’us. Here in a small
Nether Bowerhouse
plantation on the hillside about 1/3 mile West of
the steading is a well defined camp. It has
suffered considerably from quarrying. The
defences consist of two concentric mounds
and an intervening ditch measuring 26 ft. [feet]
from crest to crest. The inner mound at its
highest point on the N.W. [North West] is about 6 ft. [feet] high above the
bottom of the ditch the outer one considerably less.
Diameter, (interior) 270 x 170 ft. [feet]. The ramparts are of
earth and stone. There is an entrance through
the defences towards the E [East] which may however be
due to the quarrying in the interior. The outer
mound on the North side where it has passed
into the adjacent field has been entirely ploughed
down. The interior is rocky. Got back to
Harryburn for lunch at 2.0. & left at 3.7 by train
for Edinburgh. My cousins entertained me most
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hospitably – the ’78 port is delicious!
19th Oct. 1908.
Swan Hotel, Duns. The Commissioners having
decided that I should complete my inspection
in Berwickshire I came here again this evening.
It is pouring rain so I have come without a bicycle
The motor is engaged everyday till Thursday so
I have taken it for that to try to accomplish
a great deal. That business settled I called on Mr.
Fergusson who furnished much information
which will save me some travelling to spots
where there is nothing left to be seen. I have
taken a small private sitting room which en:
:ables me to dine in comfort and similarly
to write up my journal.
20th Oct. 1908
A dismal morning with East wind and
rain. Mr. Fergusson called early to give me some
further information and took me to call on Mr.
Deas in order that I might get entry to the Black:
:adder vault at Edrom where he says there
are some fine old graveslabs & one or two effigies.
Mr. Deas has written to Sir George Houston Boswall for
the key. Pouring rain but with leggings & water:
:proof to keep it out I must get to Raecleughhead.
Going up the South Avenue to Langton House
I found hidden among the trees on my left
near the mansion the old graveyard surround:
:ing the ruins of the church. Only a fragment
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Langton Church
of the latter remains apparently used as a burial
vault. The East wall is 22 ft. [feet] across and about 8 ft. [feet]
high. Into it have been inserted two small round
-headed windows splayed externally. Built into
the west wall of the church yard is a slab now
indecipherable surmounted by a pediment
whereon is carved a shield between the letters
M. I. B. charged with a chevron between three
goats’ heads erased. Underneath is the date 1672.
The pediment is 3’.7” across the base and 2 ft. [feet] in height.
There are lying about a number of old stones with
emblems and symbols on them also numerous
slabs entirely overgrown with moss. There is a
plentiful crop of nettles and the graveyard seems
sadly neglected. The oldest legible stone is a
narrow upright slab with a double half round
moulding across the top inscribed “HIER LYS
ALEXANDER WER. 1620.” From here I found my
way passed the house, a handsome modern
structure, to the garden where I got a man to
set me on my way to Raecleugh. I asked
two men if anything remained at the site of the
chapel & by both was answered in the negative.
We passed above the glen the site of old Langton
Castle still discernible by the grass covered founda:
:tions and a couple of parallel trenches be:
:tween it and the bank to the S. [South]. Raecleugh-head
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[Continued from page 148
seems to be accurately described. A trench like
hollow in rear of the Mound on the W. [West] seems to be
natural. The entrance appears to have been up the
N. [North] glen and into the camp in rear of the inner mound
at the N.W. [North West] corner. The ramparts are of earth & stone. The terrace at top of Guile Howe
across the So. [South] ravine is very apparent. On
Cairn on Raecleughhead Hill
a level area about ? 150 yards N [North] of the N.W. [North West] corner
of the camp and about 36 ft. [feet] E [East] of the broken wire fence
there appears to be a cairn, circular about 15 ft. [feet] dia. [diameter]
and almost entirely overgrown with turf.
Raecleughhead Hill fort.
This fort seems also to be according to description.
Besides the entrance on the East there has possibly
been another at the S.E. [South East] which has passed up
the hollow from the Eastward in rear of the front
mound. The East entrance is 12 – 13 ft. [feet] across where
it pierces the rampart. Ramparts are of earth & stone.
Got back to Duns for luncheon at 2.30 and after a
short rest set off for Preston Kirk. The rain had ceased
but the roads were very wet. The old church I found
in a very ruinous & neglected condition enshrouded
in such a heavy growth of ivy that the windows
were with difficulty discoverable. Mr Fergussons des:
:cription is quite correct except that I failed to find the
window in the W. [West] end. The font or piscine is curious.
Crossing over the road to Cumledge blanket mill I
called for one Adam Anderson, who was the discoverer
of some enclosures in a wood on Stonesheil hill.
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He got permission to accompany me to the spot and I was
delighted with his company. A wool sorter, aged 59 – his
latest hobby water colour painting. He showed me a
very prettily finished sketch of a wild rose spray done
from a copy. An entomologist and having in his collec:
:tion a specimen of the Camberwell beauty – one of the
rarest of our butterflies, caught on the banks of the
Whitadder about 1873. A botanist acquainted with
all the rare plants in the countryside, and in addition
having enough interest in archaeology to have planned the
somewhat intricate fort, or enclosure, he had discovered.
Not a unique specimen of a class we are proud of here.
The upper enclosure of which his plan has been
produced in the Pro. Ber. Nat. Club [Proceedings of Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club] is situated in the
upper part of a plantation just above the 600 ft. [feet] con:
:tour line to the E [East] of Stoneshiel (locally Staneshiel)
Hill and about 1100 W by N. [West by North] of Primrosehill.
In form it appears to be round with its E. [East]
side somewhat straight & has a diameter from N. to S. [North to South] of about 146ft. [feet]. It is surrounded by
a low broad stoney rampart which is best
defined on the S.W. [South West] in which direction the
ground slopes. The entrance is on the S.W. [South West] and
directly opposite to it in the interior is a well de:
:fined circular foundation with an internal
diameter of 27 ft. [feet]. Throughout the enclosure are
numerous indications of buildings and similar
foundations are apparent outside to the E. [East] of the enclosure.
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On the slope of the hill to the S. [South] and immediately
below the enclosure are four terraces in breadth
from 16 – 20 ft. [feet] running across the wood from E to W. [East to West].
In a smaller plantation [--] yds. to the S.W. [South West] is
an oval fort surrounded by a single massive stoney
rampart, low in the interior except at the E. [East] corner
where the ground declining it has a height of about
8 ft. [feet]. Externally at the highest point at the South it
shows to a height of about 14 ft. [feet] and is formidable
all round. The entrance is at the S.E. [South East] and the
rampart to the E [East] is projected forward so as to
enflank it somewhat. The interior is divided into
two parts by a low bank which runs from near the E [East]
side of the entrance to the rampart at the N.W. [North West] Dia [diameter] 17’ x 120’.
Returning with my companion to his house he gave
me a cup of tea, & supplied me with some particulars.
By this time it was pitch dark & as I could see nothing
he accompanied me homewards till I was clear of all
woods. Ere I reached Duns it was 7. o’clock.
21st Oct. 1908
Rather tired this morning. Mr. Fergusson called
for me at 10.0 to take me to Duns Castle. We first
ascended Duns Law to see the prehistoric fort
and Leslies fort within it on the summit.
The former is a large circular or oval fort, measur:
:ing over all about 800 ft. [feet] x 600 surrounded by
two concentric ramparts of no great height
and irregular, in outline, from which many stones
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Duns Law
outcrop. There are numerous circular foundations
in the interior. There appears to have been an en:
:trance to the East. Leslie’s so-called camp is a
small redoubt 200 ft. sq. [feet square] with small bastions of
earth at each angle. The mounds are low
and narrow. Some distance down the W. [West] slope immediately
below the plantation on the top of the fields known
as the Brunton’s park runs a regular, substantial
mound about 5 ft. [feet] high for several hundred
yards. On the lower side of it the Brunton’s park
is supposed to be the site of the town burned in
Hertfords invasion in 1545 – the Brunt town.
All fully described by Dr. [Doctor] Christison.
The stone on wh. [which] the covenant was signed has been exposed & railed in.
Duns Castle
We arrived at Duns Castle and found Mr. Hays
treasures being inventoried and valued by a
man from Waring & Gillow’s. There was an
exquisite silver partial gilt backgammon and
draught board with silver men & gold dice which
had been given by Mary Q. [Queen] of Scots to Mary Seton.
The arabesque chasing & the workmanship was
remarkably fine. In the house there appear to be
many fine articles of vertu. The old tower built
by Randolph Earl of Moray is incorporated in
a house of various dates. It has been greatly
altered and is not easily recognisable except internally
by its 8 ft. [feet] thick walls. It occupies the E. [East] end of the
castle. (Fully described by MacGibbon & Ross.)
Borthwick Castle
Of Borthwick Castle situated on the estate of Langton
about 1/2 m. [mile] to the W. [West] of Duns Castle, very little remains.
It is a complete ruin. At the E. [East] end a few feet of
walling remain and about a couple of courses of
masonry remain standing on the North, but it is
structureless & unmeasurable. Returned to Duns to
lunch & afterwards walked out to Nesbit which
belongs to Lord Sinclair & is occupied by Capt. [Captain] Aitken.
In the West gable of the row of Estate cottages is beneath
a helmet
[Margin] See sketch book
In the vault to the N.W. [North West] of the house are several
grave slabs with heraldic devices on them. I [1] The tomb
of “ane worthie gentilman” John Carre of West Nisbet
“brothergerman to Sir Thomas Carre of Cavers died 15 Nov.
1667 aged 70 – and of his wife Lady Jean Carre eldest
daughter of Sir James Carre of Crelinghall apparent
of Jedburgh who died 30 April 1681. aged 45
bears a shield
[Margin] see sketch book
Another slab, broken, is that of – (piece missing) Carre
Lady Cavers eldest daughter of Sir John Carre of Cavers
died 18 Feb. 1702. It shows on a shield
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[gap in text]
In the centre of the E [East] wall of the vault inside is
a panel
[gap in text]
Leaning against the wall is another panel
bearing a shield charged with three boars heads
erased. above the shield the letter S and on a
scroll the word Plueke. On the left of the panel
the letters D. A K on the opposite side N.S.
There is another grave slab commemorating the
death of Margaret Wauchope Lady Cavers, died
Jany [January] 1709 – on which there is also a shield
The slabs measure 6.’4” x 3.4”. The house
of Nesbit is charming with its projecting towers
It is as described by MacGibbon & Ross – also the
coat of arms above the original entrance.
A walk of a couple of miles brought me to
the modern house of Wedderburn. A great
depressing looking structure in a poor situ:
:ation. Into the W. [West] wall the
courtyard there is built at the level of the first
storey a panel whereon is a shield charged
with a lion rampant. Beneath is inscribed on a
scroll George hum drio de Wedderbrun me-
feat fiere - - An inscription probably recut and
mutilated. A little more than 1/4 mile west of the
castle within a walled enclosure and a tall hedge
of hollies lies the grave of a Hume said to have been
killed in a skirmish with the English. Near the
S.W. [South West] corner of the enclosure is set in the ground
a stone 2 ft. [feet] square and standing about 9 ins [inches] above
ground having a square socket 10 ins. sq. [inches square] and 7 ins. [inches]
deep in the centre. In front lies a small trefoil
headed cross 1 ft 7 ins. [1 foot 7 inches] long and 1 ft. 5 ins. [1 foot 5 inches] across,
nearly 7 ins [inches] thick – having incised on one side a
Latin cross with the ends of the arms foliated
[sketch inserted here]
On the back is incised a plain Latin Cross with
the ends of the arms couped – short of the edge of the
stone. Got back about 5.30 feeling very tired
and after dinner went to Mr. Fergusson’s where
I much enjoyed seeing his collection of illuminated
MSS. [manuscripts] and fine books.
22nd Oct. 1908
A fine morning but cold. At 9.30 a rather shabby
old motor which I had hired for the day drove up
to the Inn in charge of its owner in a cloth cap &
an old blue muffler at his throat. A most decent man
& careful driver but not a smart turn-out. Our
first objective lay many miles off at Paxton Cottage –
a stone named by the schoolmaster “the witches’ stone”.
Calling at the house I was conducted by a charming
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dark eyed young lady to a large slab of (?) grey wacke.
about 4ft. [feet] 6” high above the ground in which it was set and a couple of feet broad, tapering to
the upper end. Near the top were two perforations
Paxton Cottage
about 2ins. dia. [inches diameter] and about 9ins [inches] apart to centre of perforation. One rather
higher up than the other. The holes narrowed
in dia. [diameter] from both sides.
are not quite round internally. Other hollows
may be observed forming in the stone itself. The stone about 7ins. [inches] thick. From
there we made a long and unnecessary detour
to Edrington Castle. A mere fragment remains
adjoining and incorporated with farm buildings.
Edrington
It has been built of large squared blocks of sandstone.
A well 20 – 30 feet deep cut in the solid rock exists
at the base of the cliff on which the castle stood at
the upper end of an orchard which clothes the steep
bank to the river. To reach Horndean churchyard
we had to retrace our course as far as Paxton Cottage
Horndean Ch. [Church]
& then turn away Southward. Horndean. consists of
an Inn and half a dozen cottages and half a mile
distant along the old kirk road winding between high
hedges is the site of the old church. Of the old structure
nothing remains. The tombstones, except one, are
uninteresting. That one to the memory of James Harper:
:son is singular from the artistic device on the back of it.
[sketch inserted here]
viz. a heart suspended from a ring by an inter:
:twining cord: though probably early 18th cent. [century]. From Horn:
:dean (where we had difficulty in getting rid of a small spitz
which showed a passion for motoring and wouldn’t get out of
the motor) a short run brought us to Ladykirk. The Church
is very picturesque and is accurately described. Only on the
S. [South] side of the nave are the windows under elliptical arches, the
Ladykirk
window on the N. [North] is pointed. Immediately to the E. [East]
of the church & divided from it by the road is a grass
park on which are very distinct the ridges of the old
cultivation. At the So. [South] side of the field and on the
top of the bank above the Tweed is a Mound
circular except on the S. [South] where it rests on the
straight edge of the bank. From E to W. [East to West] it has a
diameter of 165ft. [feet] and at its highest is about 7ft. [feet]
high. On the West where the ground on the
outside is higher there is a shallow trench and a low bank
about 2ft. [feet] high on the interior crowns the scarp.
The entrance is at the N.E. [North East]. Turning northwards
Hilton Church.
we drove to Hilton Church of which a mere fragment
of the E [East] wall alone remains – nor are there any
stones in the graveyard of any moment. Thence
on to Swinton Kirk The Minister a handsome swarthy
highlander by name Macdonald received me kindly
& showed me the objects of interest. Let into the wall
over the doorway within the porch on the S. [South] side is a
panel inscribed “Mak no delay to turn to the Lord
Anno 1593.” Within the effigy of Sir Alan Swinton
is as described – a very rude monument. Over
the window in the E. [East] gable is a panel containing the
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the Swinton arms - A chevron bet. [between] 3 boars heads erased.
Above the shield the letters A.S S – below M.H & date 1636.
Built into the S. [South] wall of the Swinton burial aisle on
the N. [North] of the church is another panel within a
decorated moulding has carved on it a boar
chained, above 3 boars heads and over all the
letters A.S S. M.D.H. The minister informed me that the
bell is inscribed “Maria est nomen meum 1499:”
Lying in the manse garden is a foxt or trough roughly
oblong. 2’.8” in length 1’.6” across front, 1’.8” across
the back. In the front a bed has been chiselled out
1ft. sq. [foot square] & 1inch deep to receive a panel. The basin is
1ft. [foot] 7” long. and 10ins [inches] across. The font 1’.4” high.
[Simprim]
After a little refreshment with the minister & a chat,
on to Simprim. It is as described except that
the round headed window in the East gable has
been built up in the inside. Beyond the East gable
& the N. [North] wall of the chancel which remains to a height
of about 6ft. [feet] little has survived. A number of quaint
18th. cent. [century] tombstones stand around. S’ward [Southward] again
past Milne Graden where on the left bank of the Tweed
about 1/3 m. [mile] S.W. [South West] of the house partly in a grass park &
partly in a thick covert inaccessible for barbed wire are
the remains of a strong fort. It has consisted of
3 concentric ramparts with their base on the bank
above the Tweed. In the field the ramparts have been
much ploughed down but the inner is still traceable
[Margin] (see O.M. [Ordnance Map] 25 ins. [inches] )
for a distance of 230ft. [feet] with a height in parts of 7ft. [feet] while
the 2nd rampt. [rampart] is about 4ft. [feet] high & the outer almost obliterated. Inside the wood the three
mounds are very distinct, the inner about 10ft. [feet] high, the
middle about 6ft. [feet] and the outer low. They appear to
be of earth. A couple of miles along the left bank of
Tweed brought us to Lennel church. Situated in the
middle of a graveyard. The west gable in centre of
which there is a rectangular window is still almost entire
Lennel Ch. [Church] see Pre Ref. Ch. of B’shire. [Pre-Reformation Churches of Berwickshire] 1890 – 91 p. [page] 118
The side walls remain to a height of a few feet and a
doorway exists in the S. [South] wall with a segmental
arch. The East gable has gone entirely. The
width (est.) [estimate] 26ft. [feet] probably length. 63ft. [feet] thickness of walls 3’.6”.
There are numerous 18th cent. [century] tombstones around it.
N.W. [North West] a few miles we reached a farm where I left the
motor to seek out Castle Law and The Mount. The
former I found a half ruinous modern house but
the latter was of great interest, a very well preserved mote.
The Mount
It lies in a small plantation 1/4 m [mile] S. by W. [South by West] of [ -- ] farm
It is a mound, apparently of earth about 25 ft. [feet] high
with a dia. [diameter] from N. to S. [North to South] of 121ft. [feet] surrounded by a
ditch about 30ft. [feet] wide in the bottom (where measd. at S.E.) [measured at South East)
and 9 – 10ft. [feet] deep. The summit is perfectly level
with a diameter of 62ft. [feet]. The ditch on the S. [South] has
been partially filled in as if for an entrance. There is
a slight mound on top of the counterscarp. No
stones are visible about the mound or in the ditch.
As it was getting on for 5. o’clock by the time I returned
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to the motor, I gave the order for home. This is a
great game district pheasants & partridges abound
in the fields. Partridge driving has recently come
into fashion & now 100 brace is got where 30 would have
been a big bag in the day 10 or 15 years ago. I much
prefer progress on my bicycle than on a motor.
In the latter one is borne so swiftly along that
only a vague impression of the features of the
country is left on the mind, there is no time to
absorb the details. I have no fancy for so going.
23rd Oct. 1908
Cold but still fine weather. Mr. Luke & his motor
arrived for me at 9.30 and off we rattled for Fogo
church. Calling on the minister for the keys of
the church, he showed me two lovely silver com:
:munion cups presented by George Trotter of
Charterhall in 1662 – with the Trotter arms on them.
Fogo Church is a quaint structure
(with a gallery at either end with separate entrances from the outside) which was completely
restored in the latter half of the 18th cent. [century] The arms
of Hog of Harcarse with date 1677 are emblazoned
in front of the East gallery and those of George
Trotter of (?) Charterhall are sculptured on a stone
inserted in the wall of the Charterhall loft at the
West end. Into the outside of the South side of
the church has been inserted a quaint panel
- 29 in. [inches] by 20 -
with the figures of two men in long frockcoats and
heavy wigs with a woman between
having a sash or girdle round her waist. A scroll
is held across the chest of each of the men bearing a
Latin inscription in part obliterated “Vive Memor Lethi” over
all is the legend “We three served God lived in his fear
And loved him Who brought us dear.”
Entrance to the Harcarse Aisle at the E. [East] end not being
obtainable I did not see the burial slab described by
Mr Ferguson (see notes). Less than half a mile north of
Printonan
West Printonan stand the ruins of an old keep.
64 ft. [feet] long 23. ft [feet] broad with a projecting wing 11ft. [feet] in length
to the north. Only fragments of the walls of the basement remain
which show signs of vaulting. Going on to Leitholm
I left the motor & proceeded along a lane to Belchester
where in a field to the west of the house are the remains
of a fort. Occupying a plateau on the north slope
of a hill it has been an oval fort. of the defences
only a ditch about 44ft [feet] from top of scarp to top of
counterscarp and 14ft. [feet] across the bottom in part remains.
The ramparts have been entirely obliterated as also
has the ditch on the N. and N.E. [North and North East]. Half a mile from
Leitholm & a few hundred yards W. [West] of Stain:
:rigg are the remains of Leitholm Peel. A rectangular
Tower 24 ft. [feet] x 30. of which the N.W. [North West] or back wall survives to a
height of about 20 ft, [feet] the side walls rather less and
the S.E. [South East] entirely demolished. There is a door-way on
the floor level on the N.E. [North East] side. The walls are 4 ft. [feet] thick.
The Cross at Cross Hall exactly answered to the description
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I could only add that the quillons of the sword on the So. [South] side
turn downwards. A short run brought us to Eccles
Greig & his wife were both from home but I sought the
privilege of a rest in his smoking room to eat my
frugal lunch to which the establishment added a most
delicious cup of coffee. The old house has been taken
down but the portion of the nunnery formerly in
rear of it still remain and shelter a pretty
rose garden from the E. [East] and N. [North]. It is a pretty notion
to have the La Frances and Caroline Testouts taking
the places in the nunnery of the fair women who
sought the cloister and centuries ago declined to
“gather their rosebuds.” In some sort they live again
Eccles
in the roses for their earthly remains keep turning
up in the garden where they grow. The two vaulted
cells displaying on the north a blocked round
headed window are as described, adjoining which
(the window) is a fragment of string course enriched with a
chevron ornament. A number of carved stones
lie around including two transition capitals
The font in the garden is 32 ins. [inches] in diameter
and 15 1/2 ins [inches] high. It is perforated in the bottom.
Hardacres
Our next objective Hardacres fort on the So. [South]
Western extremity of a long ridge I found under
plough and almost entirely obliterated. It had
consisted of two concentric ramparts with a ditch
in front of the inner one and a level space between
that and the outer. Only at the S.W. [South West] end was any:
:thing apparent. Hume Castle is now a ridiculous
fantastic erection, a modern ruin raised on the
site of the ancient fortress. It occupies a magnifi:
:cent situation on a high rocky knoll command:
:ing the great plain that seems to stretch to the
Cheviot. The modern village whose gardens were
gay with chrysanthemums straggled up the hill side
to the base of the rock. The schoolmaster, Mr. Cuthbert
somewhat of a character, took me to the old church:
:yard where the outline of the old church is dis:
:cernible. The “pest knowe” is a mound in the
S.E. [South East] corner excavated by Lady John Scott without
result except, so the schoolmaster informed me, to
find the slivers of stone connected with the building
of the church. I was conducted to Homebyres a
neighbouring farm where there was a museum,
where was nothing of value save one very good
delpht plate. In the churchyard is a small
round headed cross with a plinth,
total height 2’.5.” dia. [diameter] of head 1 ft. [foot] thickness 7ins. [inches].
On one side of the head is carven an equal limbed cross with
the ends of the arms expanded and on the other
side a similar cross without the expansion of
the ends of the arms. Through a mistake as to
our place of meeting after visiting the Kirkyard the
motor went to one road end and I to another
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By the help of Mr. Cuthbert we were brought again
together with comparatively little loss of time! Racing
as fast as we could rattle to make up for the delay
we speedily came to Nenthorn where in a clump of
trees near the old mansion house I found the
site of the old chapel. The stone described by Mr.
Ferguson lies about 8 ft. [feet] E. [East] of the foundation of the
E. [East] gable. It was, when I found it, entirely overgrown
with moss and is rapidly disappearing in the
earth. With some difficulty and much jolting over
rough roads bad for a cart far less a motor I
reached the remains of the Tower at Whiteside
about 1 m. [mile] S.W. [South West] of Mellerstain Ho. [House]. Only a vaulted
basement remains and in that the vault is
beginning to fall in. It is 53 ft. [feet] long, 25 ft. [feet] wide
with walls 3 ft. [feet] thick. We drove home through
the beech woods of Mellerstain splendid in all
the gold and brown liveries of autumn wer
the chauffeur who had spoken little all day
gloried in their beauty. Our drive over the bleak
country by Greenlaw was rapid and chilly and
we returned to Duns at 5.45. There is little
beyond Cockburnspath & Edrom now to see here..
A mound called Doon’s Law at Leetside I have not
reached. It is about 6 ft. [feet] high & was mentioned to
me by Mr. Deas the factor who thought it might be
sepulchral.
24th Oct. 1908
A showery morning which developed into a perfect autumn
day. Took the 10. o’clock train for Edrom, but on my
way to the station tried to get entrance to the Duns
kirkyard to see an inscribed stone in the Wedderburn
Aisle but failed. Arrived at Edrom I made my way
to the manse and called for Mr. Simpson. I found
him a tall grizzled man with somewhat of an
Irish accent, and a remarkable individual. His
garden, where he detained me for nearly an hour,
was full of fine plants and flowers. Rows of Sweet
peas of the finest varieties he grew to hybridise & get
new kinds; bulbs he likewise experimented with and
grew daffodils of all sorts by the thousands. He
was an expert carpenter as his sheds and an
excellent greenhouse, entirely reared by his own
hands, testified, nor were his powers as a mechanic
limited to ordinary joiner work for he showed
me a most comfortable and neatly finished
two wheeled trap of his own construction. In
addition he was proud to be able to add that
he had doubled his congregation in a de:
:creasing population during his “incumbency”.
no bad record for one man. His church and
churchyard were both tidy and well kept.
The beautiful Norman doorway at the entrance
to the burial vault at the West end has recently
been pointed with cement and the imposts where
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defective similarly made good. The upper portions
of the angle buttresses at the S. [South] end of the Black:
:adder aisle are in need of pointing. On the W. [West]
buttress is a shield bearing a chevron charged
with 3 cinquefoils. while on the E. [East] buttress the chevron
on the shield is charged with a single cinquefoil
The arms on a shield on S. [South] wall near the west
end are almost obliterated. On the dexter half
there appear to have been two, or three human heads.
Inside the church a large pointed arch (forms
the N. [North] extremity of the Blackadder aisle).
Preserved in the hearse house to the right of
the gateway into the churchyard is the broken
half of a hog-backed monument described
by Mr. Richardson. Before being rescued
it had been split longditudinally by a blow
from a cart wheel. Parting company
with the minister after an interesting morning I
made my way to Blanerne where Mrs.
Sandys Lumsdaine, a courteous old lady,
took me herself to the ruins of the castle,
my abstract confused the two buildings. The
guard-house has a fragment of a turret
on it and a shot hole on the left of the door
-way. It has been used as a dairy. The
keep is ruinous, was at one time used as
a brewhouse, & now presents no features
of interest. The walls are 4’.6” thick. Mrs.
Lumsdaine recited the following which I
have somewhere come across before.
“Bonkle, Billie and Blanerne
Three castles strong as airn
Built when Davie was a bairn
They’ll a’ gang doun wi’ Scotland’s croun
And ilka ane shall be a cairn.”
The Castle stood on the edge of a steep bank
above the Whitadder. This “sight” accomplished
I found myself 4 1/2 miles from Duns at 12.15
to which I hoped to return at 12.45! I had a
rapid, warm walk, too rapid for enjoyment,
& got back to mine inn by 1.20! At 1.49 I
left Duns & regretfully came back from the
hills & woods in their autumn glory bathed
in sunshine to the town.
2nd Nov. 1908
A wet misty day but as I am determined to finish
Berwickshire I have come down to Cockburnspath
by the afternoon train. The only other visitor in the
hotel is a Mr. Davidson a well-known land valuator
the remnant of a shooting party that left as I arrived.
3rd Nov. 1908
My fellow lodger having left early I breakfasted in peace.
The day was dull but dry and rather warm. I
walked off about 10.0 to Cockburnspath tower.
It consists of a ruined keep and the remains of
outbuildings to the East of it in the courtyard.
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The keep has been 35 ft. [feet] long and 29 ft. [feet] wide with
walls 6 ft. [feet] thick in the lower storey which was not
vaulted. The North wall is fairly complete and
Cockburnspath Castle.
is stepped and strengthened at the base in a peculiar
manner. The West wall exists for the greater part
but the remainder is much ruined. The offices
have been vaulted but only in the middle of the
three appartments does that now remain intact
The fine 17th cent. [century] doorway which gave access to
the N.E. [North East] appartment has within the last few years
been demolished and the moulded jambs are
lying around. Higher up the glen a short
distance above the present road bridge the
burn is crossed by the fragmentary remains
Cockburnspath Bridge
of an ancient bridge. The arch which is pointed has a span of
10 ft. 9 ins [10 feet 9 inches] and is now on the W. [West] side 3 ft. [feet] in breadth
while on the E [East] side of the burn it is a foot or so
more. The abutment on the W. [West] shows breadth of 6 ft. [feet]
as the arch on the W [West] side towards the NE [North East] projects a foot to 18 ins. [inches] beyond its
breadth at the W. [West] it has probably been 7 - 8 ft. [feet] broad originally.
It is in a very ruinous condition.
About 1 mile due North after climbing a steep bank
through brackens now breaking down with the wet and over
a Stretch of moorland from which I picked some
sprigs of bell heather still in bloom, I found the
camp on Ewieside. It is situated on the highest
Ewieside fort
part of the hill at its Eastern end and commands
a fine prospect to the North & East though the
mist obscured the view. I found it a circular
enclosure surrounded by three concentric ramparts
well preserved with intervening ditches and a trench
on the outside. From crest of the counterscarp of the
[Margin] Take measurements from O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 25” scale)
outer ditch to the crest of the inner rampart
measures (at the West side) 60 ft. – 17 ft. [60 feet - 17 feet] to crest of
outer rampt. [rampart] 20 from that to the crest of the intermediate
and 23 ft. [feet] thence to the crest of the inner.
The rampart slightly dominates the middle
one. Both are from 3 to 5 ft. [feet] high – the outer is
somewhat less. The ramparts seem to be of earth
and stone. The entrance has been on the West
where the inner rampart about 12’ distant on
either Side has been curved round to meet the
intermediate one and close the ends of the inner
ditch while the ends of the outer ditch remain
open. The entrance to the interior appears to have
been through a very narrow passage about 3 ft. [feet]
wide – but the growth of heather obscures details.
About 16 ft. [feet] South of the entrance a bank
about 6 ft. [feet] across connects the two inner ramparts
but if original its object is obscure.
A portion of the fort towards the South lies
across a stone wall in a field which has
been under cultivation and here has been
almost obliterated. The rest of the enclosure
is overgrown with heather. A walk of about
3 miles Northward crossing the Pease glen where
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the trees in their autumn foliage were magnificent brought
me to St. Helen’s on the Sea. It’s description
St. Helen’s kirk
may be taken from Notebook p. [page] 21. I would add that
a single stone, at the E. [East] end of the nave on
the N. [North] side about 5 ft. [feet] from the ground still bears
traces of the sunk cross and diamond enrichment
similar to that in Legerwood Church. I observed on
the interior of the W. [West] gable three stones each about
10 ins. sq. [inches square] decorated with a combined double
chevron [Sketch inserted here]. Lying to the S. [South] of the chancel
at the E. [East] end of a group of table stones is a
portion of a hog-back or coped stone. It lies
N. & S. [North & South]. On the West side about 5 inches below the
flat top which is 6 ins. [inches] across occur three parallel
rows of scale enrichment. On the E. [East] side how:
:ever there appears towards the broken end of the
stone the figure of a four legged
animal (passant). The stone is much worn. The
angles terminate with slight buttress-like projections
The fragment is 2 ft [feet] long. and 1’.4” across the
base at ground level & 6 ins [inches] across the flat top. It is slightly less deep at
the end than at the point of fracture but it
is doubtful if it was exactly hog-backed.
At point of fracture it is 10 inches deep.
12 ft. [feet] S.S.W. [South South West] of the S. [South] buttress of the W. [West] gable lying
E. and W. [East and West] and almost overgrown with turf
is a coped stone of white free-stone. It appears to
be about 4’.8” in length. On the South side
[Margin] see later
which I partially exposed with great difficulty
there is carved a bold figure of an animal
looking backwards with its tail curled up
over its back. In rear of it there appears to be
a horse. This stone must be dug up and
described. Time pressing I had reluctantly
to leave St. Helens and its old stones and
make for the adjacent fort described in the
Ber. Nat. Club. Pro. [Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club Proceedings] for 1885. as on Dean Castle.
Dean Castle Fort.
It was an ideal situation with almost precipitous
rocks on three sides but I failed entirely to see
the double ramparts and ditches on the N. [North] which
must now have entirely disappeared. A mound
along the So. [South] face might have been artificial
but even of that I was not sure. Feeling somewhat
tired with my impedimenta & a waterproof I betook
myself home to mine inn, but before turning
in I paid a visit to the old Manor house,
called locally “sparrow castle,” which exists to
the So. [South] of the village. It is in reality two old
houses one abutting partially on the end of the
other at right angles. The windows of the S. [South] house
are surrounded with a half round & hollow moulding
but otherwise the buildings have no merit
beyond their Antiquity. The N. [North] house enters on
the first floor by an outside stair and in its
vaulted basement two straw beds afford free
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nights resting place for the penniless. The less
impecunious find a little more comfort for 4d. [£0.0.4] per
night in the upper part of the mansion. The
village cross is as described. It appears to be
about 16’.6” high from ground and 11 ft. [feet] above the
base. This hotel is very comfortable and I now
have it to myself.
4th Nov. 1908
The Minister the Rev. [Reverend] Mr. Dunnet having called the
previous evening and arranged to show me
his church &c. I called at the manse about 9.25.
The church is of considerable interest by reason
of the circular tower partially built into the
centre of the gable of the W. [West] end. The upper
storey is pierced with rather wide slits having
semicircular expansions on either side in
the centre. These lights spoil the symmetry of
the tower and on that account I should think
were later than the original building. The Tower
is fully described in Eccles. Arch. of S. [Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland] also Procd [Proceedings]
of Ecclesiol. [Ecclesiastical] Society &c. At the E. [East] of the church
has been built a vault with entrance from the
E. [East] end by a flat headed doorway. In the
apex of the gable is the date 1614 and
surmounting it is a stone with a shield
much defaced charged with a chevron between
2 stars in chief and a crescent in base
On the right of the shield the letter W. is faintly
discernible but the letter on the other side has been
quite obliterated. Within the vault now used in
connection with the heating apparatus for the
church, against the north wall lies a slab
6 ft. [feet] x 2’.6” bearing a shield charged with three
escutcheons. Around it the letters D. I. H and
above on a scroll the mottoe “Serva jugum.” Mr. Dunnet
drove me to the farm of Hoprig where are
preserved a very fine cinerary urn with
a burnisher of flint & another of pebble, and
two beakers found on the farm and all
illustrated in the Pro. of Ber. Nat. Club. [Proceedings of Berwickshire Naturalists’ Club].
Thence back to St. Helens where having borrowed
a spade I uncovered the carved stone
previously mentioned. I found it to be 4’.10”
in length and slightly imperfect at the E. [East] end,
15 ins. [inches] across the base at the W. [West] or head, and 12” at the
foot. 11 ins. [inches] deep at the former and 9 ins [inches] at the
latter end. 5 ins [inches] across the flat top. On the
N. [North] side there is a regular slope almost to the
base of 10 ins. [inches] and on the S. [South] side there is a
level of 8 ins [inches] and a base of 4 ins [inches] in depth. Along
the North side there is faintly discernible the
remains of one or more rows of scale ornament
with a chevron ornament underneath
and on the S. [South] side which is divided into four
compartments there is first a dragonesque animal
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looking backwards with its tail curved up over its back
1’.3” in length, - then an interlaced ornament 5 ins. [inches]
in length, - a horse which has probably had a rider
1’.2”. followed by a band of chevron ornament
6 ins. [inches] broad. The remainder of the stone at either end
is unornamented. It is much worn. The ends are straight & plain.
I replaced the earth & turf around & over the
monument. The slab referred to by Mr. Ferguson
is 4 ft. [feet] 8” long – 1 ft. 7ins. [1 foot 7 inches] broad at the head – & 1’.2”
at the foot. It has a rudely incised figure of
man with his hands folded on his breast
and a sword or dagger at his left side.
It is also much worn & lies exposed about 10 ft [feet]
S. [South] of the W. [West] end of the S. [South] wall. Mr. Dunet drove
me back & after luncheon accompanied
me to the site of a fort near Dunglass Mill.
It was an ideal situation defended on three
sides by steep banks. The area was under
turnip crop and across the neck of the
promontory the evidences of fortifications
were excessively faint in fact could only be
presumed from the fresher colour of parts of
a badly mildewed crop which grew on the
site of the ditches. Returning to the manse
Mr. Dunet showed me the old Dead bell of
the parish. It is cast in one piece with the
straight handle: at the top of which is a moveable
knob. Its extreme height is 9 1/2 inchs [inches] the bell itself
being 5 inches high. The diameter at mouth 6 inches
It is inscribed in bold characters “Gifted be
John Henrie Bower in Edinburgh to
the Sessione and Kirke of Cockburnspath
1650. Leaving Cockburnspath about 6.15 I
got home for an 8. o’clock dinner. The hotel was
very comfortable & most moderate in its charges.
7th Nov. 1908
In company with Mr. Ross left Edinburgh at
9.33 for Edrom. At Duns we were joined by Mr.
Ferguson & at Edrom by Mr. Simpson, the Minis:
:ter and later Major Logan Home was absorbed!
The Blackadder Aisle was thrown open for us
at the Church (now the burial vault of the Houston
Boswalls of Blackadder). At the North East
extremity there has been erected a rectangular
tomb 3 ft. [feet] 6ins broad. 7 ft. [feet] 1 1/4 long 4’.2 1/2” high.
Into the South side have been inserted two
panels the one heraldic bearing two shields, the dexter
shield quarterly 1st a lion rampant, 2 & 3. 3 papingoes. 4. a cross
empailed - J’inister shield – An inestcutcheon bearing a lion rampant
within a bordine, in chief three papingoes,
the other having carved on it the letters P.H.
and the date 1668. On the top of the
structure lie two separate recumbent effigies
a man in armour, his hands folded on his
breast, his feet resting on a pillow or cushion
showing an animal resembling an elephant
carved on one end. The length of the figure is 6’.4”.
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On his left lies the figure of a lady clad in
a loose robe with puckered sleeves and a
cord around her waist – her hands folded on
her breast – length 5 ft. [feet] 6”. The features of both
effigies are almost entirely worn off and appear
to have been of rude workmanship. They are resting
upon a slab of different stone with a chamfered
edge on which is carved – “Heir lyes ane Ho(nble) [Honourable]
“Squyar Patrik Howme of ye BrumHows
“and his spous dem Elener Wyrdrop of
(yaistir Heuttwn) (The reading of the last
two names is uncertain). At the end of the
inscription is incised the date 1553. The
Tomb is certainly composed of two different
Monuments but it is reasonably probable
that the effigies and the slab beneath them
belong to one another. We were much interfered
with by the anxiety of the hospitable Minister
to get us to lunch and of the Major excitedly
interested in having discovered some of his
ancestors. We lunched at the Manse and
having ordered a trap from Duns as soon as
we could politely escape Mr. Ross & I set off
for the farm of Leetside to inspect a mound
there marked on the O.S. [Ordnance Survey] 6”. as Doons Law.
We easily found it in a grass field.
An oval mound, whether of earth or stone
it is difficult to say, as there were deep rabbit holes
on the top and at the sides where broken it seemed
stoney. Its main axis lies N.W. to S.E. [North West to South East] and measures
83 ft [feet] and the other diameter 65 ft. [feet]. It is maintained
by a stone wall built against it at the
N. [North] side is about 4 ft. [feet] high above the level of the
adjacent field. It is planted with trees.
A pleasant drive, though cold, under a frosty
sky brought us back to Duns where we had
time to get tea before leaving for Edinburgh
at 5.23. And so ends my first experience
as the wandering antiquary of the Ancient
Monuments Commission. I have inspected
over 200 objects in Berwickshire, & written up
notes on them. My bicycle has carried me
almost 300 miles; five times only have I hired
a trap and twice a motor car, the number
of miles I have tramped by moorland & meadow
I have no reckoning of but they are many.
It has never been anything but the most
intense pleasure to me even when I stood
on Raecleugh-head struggling to make my
notes behind an umbrella which every moment
the wind threatened to blow to pieces. The
memory of the bright October days among the
Lammermoors when the birches were spangled
with gold and the brackens a deep russet
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will long live with me! I shall oft recall “oh
wild and stormy Lammermoor”
The music of thy many streams
In the birchwoods far away”
__________,, ___________
3rd April 1909. After my mss, [manuscript] was completed and
sent to the stationery office, Mr. James Richardson
Architect informed me of the existence of a
hog-backed stone in the churchyard of
Hutton some 3 miles E [East] of Chirnside accordingly
on this date, Saturday I made an expedition
there to inspect it. Train to Chirnside ar:
:riving about 12.45. Lunched at the Waterloo
Arms and thereafter walked to Hutton 3-4
miles distant. I found the stone in the
S.E. [South East] corner of the graveyard adjoining the
church at the top of a flight of steps leading
from near the door of the church. It is a
coped stone lying N. & S. [North & South] 6’.2 1/2“ in length. 22” across the
base at the S. [South] end. 17” at the N. [North] end. 10” in
thickness at the former 8 1/2 ins. [inches] at the latter.
The flat top is 9” across at the S. [South] end and 7” at the N. [North].
Though much worn there are still discernible
three parallel rows of scale ornament on either
flank of the stone.
Towards the S.W. [South West] corner of the burial
ground stands a burial vault in rather a
ruinous condition. It is roofed with a barrel-
-vault covered externally with stone flags.
(cf. Ladykirk church.) |
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