Sutherland 1911

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sutherland-1911/02_001 [Crown] The Royal Commission on the Ancient & Historical Monuments of Scotland [Notes] a/ 17/6 418 Rt A1.1 INV 2)
sutherland-1911/02_002 Scottish National Buildings Record, Ministry of Works, 122 George Street, Edinburgh, 2. [Notes] 25 251 TT X 49
sutherland-1911/02_003 THE ROYAL COMMISSION ON THE ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS OF SCOTLAND SECOND REPORT AND INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND [Coat of arms] EDINBURGH: PUBLISHED BY HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE. To be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from OLIVER & BOYD, TWEEDDALE COURT, EDINBURGH; or WYMAN & SONS, LIMITED, FETTER LANE, E.C.; or E. PONSONBY, LTD., 116 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN. PRINTED BY NEILL & COMPANY, LIMITED, BELLEVUE, EDINBURGH. 1911. Price Six Shillings.
sutherland-1911/02_004 CONTENTS. ROYAL WARRANT RATIFYING AND CONFIRMING THE TERMS OF THE COMMISSION ISSUED IN THE REIGN OF HIS LATE MAJESTY -- iii SECOND REPORT -- v LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CON- STRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST WORTHY OF PRESERVATION -- ix INTRODUCTION TO INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND -- xv TABLE OF BROCHS, SHOWING THE INTERIOR DIAMETER IN EACH CASE WHERE ASCERTAINABLE -- xl TABLE SHOWING THE CHARACTER AND DISTRIBUTION OF CAIRNS AND THEIR CHAMBERS -- xlii LIST OF GROUND PLANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS -- xliii LIST OF PARISHES -- xlv BIBLIOGRAPHY -- xlv INVENTORY -- 1 INDICES -- 189 MAPS OF THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND, INDICATING THE POSITION OF MONUMENTS, ETC., BY NUMBERS REFERABLE TO THE INVENTORY -- at end
sutherland-1911/02_005 ROYAL WARRANT RATIFYING AND CONFIRMING THE TERMS OF THE COMMISSION ISSUED IN THE REIGN OF HIS LATE MAJESTY. GEORGE, R. I. GEORGE THE FIFTH, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Dominions beyond the Seas King, Defender of the Faith, to all to whom these Presents shall come, - Greeting ! Whereas it pleased His late Majesty from time to time to issue Royal Commissions for various purposes therein specified: And whereas, in the case of .... the Ancient Monuments (Scotland) Commission, .... the Commissioners appointed by His late Majesty, or such of them as were then acting as Commissioners, were at the late Demise of the Crown still engaged upon the business entrusted to them: And whereas We deem it expedient that the said Commissioners should continue their labours notwithstanding the late Demise of the Crown: Now know ye that We, reposing great trust and confidence in the zeal, discretion and ability of the present members of each of the said Commissions, do by these Presents authorise them to continue their labours, and do hereby in every essential particular ratify and confirm the terms of the said several Commissions. And We do further ordain that the said Commissioners do report to Us under their hands and seals, or under the hands and seals of such of their number as may be specified in the said Commissions respectively, their opinion upon the matters presented for their consideration; and that any proceedings which they or any of them may have taken under and in pursuance of the said Commissions since the late Demise of the Crown and before the issue of these Presents shall be deemed and adjudged to have been taken under and in virtue of this Our Commission. Given at Our Court at Marlborough House, the second day of June, one thousand nine hundred and ten, in the first year of Our Reign. By His Majesty's Command. PENTLAND. Wt. 32869/1025. - 500. - 1/11. - N. & Co., Ltd. - Gp. II. Sch. B.
sutherland-1911/02_006 SECOND REPORT OF THE ROYAL COMMISSION ON THE ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS OF SCOTLAND. TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. MAY IT PLEASE YOUR MAJESTY, - We, your Majesty's Commissioners, appointed to make an Inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Construc- tions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilisation, and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the earliest times to the year 1707, and to specify those which seem most worthy of preservation, humbly present to your Majesty this our second Report. During the summer and autumn of 1909, Mr A. O. Curle, Secretary to the Commission, undertook a survey and examination of the monuments and constructions in the county of Sutherland, and has compiled an Inventory thereof, showing the situation and characteristics of each, along with a bibliography, a reference to the Ordnance Survey sheet (6-inch scale) on which it is noted, and the date on which it was visited. Photographs and ground-plans have been appended where these have been considered necessary to explain the text. In order to render the Inventory more serviceable, maps have been annexed, on which the positions of the various monuments and constructions, or groups thereof, are indicated by numbers refer- able to the Inventory. Annexed as an appendix to this Report is a list of those monuments and constructions which, in the opinion of your Commissioners, seem most worthy of preservation. These, as formerly, have been divided into two classes, viz.: (a) those which appear to be specially in need of protection, and (b) those worthy of preservation but not in imminent risk of demolition or decay. A detailed and illustrated account of all the monuments, etc., will be found in the Inventory which has been issued as a Stationery Office publication. The monuments and constructions of Sutherland were found greatly to exceed in number and importance those previously known to exist, and they mainly belong to prehistoric times. Not only
sutherland-1911/02_007 vi -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. have many examples of well-known types been noted for the first time, but a large number of constructions, representing types of early habitations, which have not hitherto been made the subject of special observation on the mainland of Scotland, have been examined and planned. There have been enumerated in the Inventory groups of objects as well as single objects, so that the actual numbers do not indicate the fulness of the record. Very few of the objects noted have hitherto been described. Owing to the great extent of the county and the sparseness of its population, trustworthy information regarding its ancient monuments was difficult to obtain, and we believe that there still exist a certain number of objects which have not come under our observation. We trust, however, that the publication of the Inventory will attract attention to such monu- ments, and that intimation of their existence may be ultimately made to us. Full facilities have been granted by proprietors and tenants to inspect the monuments on their ground, and general interest has been shown in the work of your Majesty's Commission. To the Ministers of the Gospel as well as the Parish School- masters, and to others throughout the county occupying no official position, your Commissioners have been indebted for much assistance. We view with much regret the destruction which has overtaken so many remarkable prehistoric monuments and constructions throughout the county owing to the facilities they have afforded for a supply of stones for road-metal and building purposes, but we have pleasure in bringing to your Majesty's notice the efforts of the County Council, which for the present have been successful in checking further mischief. Vigilance, however, will be required to prevent a repetition of these objectionable practices. The attention of proprietors may be drawn to the damage frequently done to ancient constructions through the practice of planting trees upon or immediately adjacent to them. The attention of your Commissioners has been directed to frequent instances throughout the county of the excavation of monuments without any record having been kept of the results, or plans made of the structures. This is much to be regretted, as it involves the loss of valuable evidence regarding the racial characteristics and culture of the prehistoric inhabitants. In further execution of your Majesty's Commission we have requested the co-operation of the Town Councils of the Royal Burghs throughout Scotland, and have asked them to assist by preparing lists of ancient buildings and other objects existing within their bounds. The response to this request has been most gratifying, and we have much pleasure in bringing to your Majesty's notice the great trouble which in many instances has been taken to further the objects of the Commission. During the year a number of intimations have reached us of the threatened destruction of ancient monuments in various parts of Scotland, and we have been able by representations to assist towards their preservation. A survey of the monuments and constructions in the county of
sutherland-1911/02_008 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND -- vii Caithness has been completed during the past summer, and the Inventory thereof is in preparation. We cannot conclude this Report without expressing recognition of the continued good service rendered to us by the Secretary of the Commission, who has grudged no time and spared no personal exertion in the work of inspecting and cataloguing the monuments scattered over a very wide and sparsely populated district. HERBERT MAXWELL, Chairman. CHARLES J. GUTHRIE. G. BALDWIN BROWN. THOMAS H. BRYCE. FRANCIS C. BUCHANAN. W. T. OLDRIEVE. THOMAS ROSS. ALEXR. O. CURLE, Secretary. EDINBURGH, November 1910.
sutherland-1911/02_009 LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST WORTHY OF PRESERVATION. 1. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS SPECIALLY IN NEED OF PROTECTION. DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS. Brochs -- PARISH. An Dun, Loch Ardbhair (No. 4*) -- Assynt. An Dun, Loch a' Chairn Bhain (No. 168) -- Eddrachillis. Backies (No. 272) -- Golspie. "Carn Liath," Uppat (No. 270) -- Golspie. Carrol, Loch Brora (No. 27) -- Clyne. Castle Cole, or Caisteal na Coille, Black Water (No. 25) -- Clyne. Clachtoll (No. 7) -- Assynt. Dail Langwell (No. 49) -- Creich. Dun Creagach, Loch Naver (No. 175) -- Farr. Dun Dornaigil or Dornadilla, Stgrathmore (No. 155) -- Durness. Dun na Maigh, Kyle of Tongue (No. 527) -- Tongue. Dunrobin Wood (No. 271) -- Golspie. East Kinnauld, Strath Fleet (No. 477) -- Rogart. Feranach, Strath na Frithe (No. 314) -- Kildonan. Grum-more, Loch Naver (No. 174) -- Farr. Kilphedir, Strath of Kildonan (No. 307) -- Kildonan. Kintradwell or Cinn Trolla, Kintradwell (No. 467) -- Loth. Langdale Burn, Syre, Strathnaver (No. 177) -- Farr. Salachadh, Loch Shin (No. 392) -- Lairg Skelpick, Strathnaver (No. 182) -- Farr. SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS. Chambered Cairns - Achaidh (No. 82) -- Creich. Coillenaborgie, Strathnaver (horned long cairn) (No. 243) -- Farr. Kinbrace Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 372) -- Kildonan. Loch Borrolan (No. 14) -- Assynt. Skelpick, Strathnaver (horned long cairn) (No. 241) -- Farr. *The numbers throughout the list refer to the Inventory.
sutherland-1911/02_010 x -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS (continued). Stone Circles- -- PARISH. Aberscross (No. 291) -- Golspie. Auchinduich (No. 91) -- Creich. "Clach an Righ," Dailharraild, Strathnaver (No. 247) -- Farr. Cnoc an Liath-bhaid, Strath Brora (No. 518) -- Rogart. Druim Baile fiur, Achany (No. 461) -- Lairg. Learable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 374) -- Kildonan. River Shin (No. 462) -- Lairg. MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS. Sculptured Cross, Strathy (No. 260) -- Farr. Standing Stones - Allt Breac, Strath of Kildonan (No. 379) -- Kildonan. Learable Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 381) -- Kildonan. Torrish Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 378) -- Kildonan. II. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS DESERVING PROTEC- TION BUT NOT IN IMMINENT RISK OF DEMOLITION OR DECAY. ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES. -- PARISH. Belfry tower, Clynekirkton (No. 22) -- Clyne. Sepulchral monument in Durness Church (No. 154) -- Durness. CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES. Ardvreck Castle (No. 2) -- Assynt. Dunrobin Castle, Golspie (No. 269) -- Golspie. Castle Varrich or Bhurraich (No. 526) -- Tongue. Helmsdale Castle (No. 306) -- Kildonan. DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS. Brochs - Ach an Duin (No. 156) -- Durness. Achcoillenaborgie, Strathnaver (No. 183) -- Farr. Allt a' Choire Mhoir, Strath of Kildonan (No. 312) -- Kildonan. Allt Breac (No. 395) -- Lairg. Brae (No. 107) -- Dornoch. "Carn Bran," Glen Loth (No. 468) -- Loth. Camus an Duin (No. 157) -- Durness. Coill'Ach a' Chuil, Loch Naver (No. 176) -- Farr. Dun Carnachaidh, Strathnaver (No. 180) -- Farr. Dun Chealamy, Strathnaver (No. 179) -- Farr. Dun Viden, Strathnaver (No. 181) -- Farr. Eldrable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 309) -- Kildonan. Inshlampie, Skail, Strathnaver (No. 178) -- Farr. Skelbo Wood (No. 106) -- Dornoch. Suisgill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 308) -- Kildonan. "The Borg," Forsinain, Strath Halladale (No. 186) -- Farr. "The Sandy Dun," Baile Mhargait, Strathnaver (No. 184) -- Farr.
sutherland-1911/02_011 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xi FORTS AND FORTIFIED ENCLOSURES, &c. Forts- -- PARISH. Ben Griam Beg, Strath of Kildonan (hill fort) (No. 316) -- Kildonan. Duchary Rock (No. 29) -- Clyne. Dun Creich (vitrified fort), Dornoch Firth (No. 54) -- Creich. East Kinnauld, Strath Fleet (No. 479) -- Rogart. Fortified Enclosures - Auchinduich (No. 55) -- Creich. Dalnamain (No. 118) -- Dornoch. Circular enclosure, The Ord (No. 396) -- Lairg. Rectangular construction, "Grianan," on islet in Lochan Hacoin (No 531) -- Tongue. Earth-houses- Achinnearin, Suisgill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 343) -- Kildonan. Kirkton (No. 274) -- Golspie. Salscraggie, Strath of Kildonan (No. 324) -- Kildonan. Hut Circles, &c .- Aberscross Hill, Strath Fleet (No. 279) -- Golspie. Achnagarron (No. 487) -- Rogart. Allt Cille Pheadair, Strath of Kildonan (Nos. 327 and 328) -- Kildonan. Between Dailharraild and Syre, Strathnaver (No. 207) -- Farr. Bighouse, Strath Halladale (No. 226) --Farr. Brae, Strath Carnaig (No. 129) -- Dornoch. Caen Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 318) -- Kildonan. Carnachaidh, Strathnaver (No. 211) -- Farr. Cnoc an Liath-bhaid (No. 506) -- Rogart. Coich Burn, Sciberscross, Strath Brora (No. 36) -- Clyne. Creag an Amalaidh, Loch Fleet (Nos. 111-113) -- Dornoch. Creag Ruidh nan Caorach, Strath of Kildonan (No. 351) -- Kildonan. Dail a' Bhaite, Strathy Water (No. 230) -- Farr. Dalhalvaig, Strath Halladale (No. 224) -- Farr. Dremergid (No. 503) -- Rogart. Dulaich (No. 417) -- Lairg. Feith Osdale (No. 434) -- Lairg. Forsinard, Strath Halladale (No. 223) -- Farr. Kildonan, Strath of Kildonan (Nos. 344 and 345) -- Kildonan. Kinbrace Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 352) -- Kildonan. Knockarthur (Nos. 498-500) -- Rogart. Sciberscross, Strath Brora (Nos. 32 and 33) -- Clyne. Sciberscross, Strath Brora (No. 511) -- Rogart. Scottarie Burn, Strath Brora (No. 37) -- Clyne. Skaig (No. 490) -- Rogart. S. of Lairg Station, Strath Shin (No. 56) -- Creich. Strath Fleet (No. 414) -- Lairg. Swordale, Kyle of Sutherland (No. 63) -- Creich. Tannachy (No. 512) -- Rogart. Torboll, Strath Carnaig (No. 126) -- Dornoch. Tulloch, Kyle of Sutherland (No. 69) -- Creich. Uppat Wood (No. 281) -- Golspie.
sutherland-1911/02_012 xii-- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. CAIRNS. Chambered- -- PARISH. Achany (No 447) -- Lairg. Achcheargary, Strathnaver (No. 244) -- Farr. Allt nam Ban (No. 44) -- Clyne. Badnabay (remains) (No. 172) -- Eddrachillis. Balcharn (No. 457) -- Lairg. Benbhraggie Wood (remains) (No. 289) -- Golspie. Caen, Strath of Kildonan (long cairn) (No. 359) -- Kildonan. Caen Burn, Strath of Kildonan (long cairns) (Nos. 356 and 358) -- Kildonan. "Carn Tigh nan Coileach" (long cairn), Allt ach na h-Uaigh (No. 373) -- Kildonan. Cnoc an Daimh (No. 169) -- Eddrachillis. Evelix (No. 143) -- Dornoch. Invershin (remains) (No. 90) -- Creich. Kilournan, Strath of Kildonan (long cairn) (No. 361) -- Kildonan. Kyleoag (No. 83) -- Creich. Lairg Moor (Nos. 453 and 454) -- Lairg. Ledmore Wood (No. 84) -- Creich. Lothbeg (long cairn) (No. 472) -- Loth. Skail, Strathnaver (remains) (No. 233) -- Farr. Skelpick, Strathnaver (horned cairn) (No. 238) -- Farr. The Ord (remains) (No. 444) -- Lairg. Torboll (No. 134) -- Dornoch. With Cists and of unascertained character - Aberscross (No. 288) -- Golspie. Achany (Nos. 448-451) -- Lairg. Allt a' Chaoruinn (No. 163) -- Durness. Allt nan Eun (No. 79) -- Creich. Balnacoil (No. 42) -- Clyne. Cam Loch (No. 12) -- Assynt. Camore Wood (No. 141) -- Dornoch. "Carn an Fheidh," Harriet Plantation (No. 138) -- Dornoch. Clashmore (No. 144) -- Dornoch. Creag an Amalaidh (No. 133) -- Dornoch. Creag Ruidh nan Caorach, Strath Beag (No. 367) -- Kildonan. Dalcharn, Strath na Frithe (No. 366) -- Kildonan. Dornoch (No. 137) -- Dornoch. Feranach, Strath na Frithe (No. 365) -- Kildonan. Fiscary (Nos. 234-237) -- Farr. Harriet Plantation (No. 139) -- Dornoch. Kinbrace Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 368) -- Kildonan. Kinloch (No. 539) -- Tongue. Loch a' Chairn Bhain (No. 170) -- Eddrachillis. Loch Awe (No. 10) -- Assynt. Loch Loyal (No. 538) -- Tongue. Maikle (No. 89) -- Creich. Skelpick, Strathnaver (No. 242) -- Farr. The Ord (Nos. 443 and 445) -- Lairg. Torrish Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 362) -- Kildonan. Traligill Burn, Inchnadamph (No. 9) -- Assynt. Stone Circle - Learable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 374) -- Kildonan.
sutherland-1911/02_013 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND -- xiii MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS. Cup-marked Stones - -- PARISH. Dornoch (No. 137) -- Dornoch. Grum-beg, Loch Naver (No. 252) -- Farr. Kinloch (No. 542) -- Tongue. Learable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 383) -- Kildonan. Lochan Hacoin (No. 541) -- Tongue. Torrisdail (No. 540) -- Tongue. Rectangular Construction - "Lettie's Grave," Blarich (No. 520) -- Rogart. Sculptured Crosses - Creich (No. 95) -- Creich. Farr (No. 258) -- Farr. Grum-beg, Loch Naver (No. 250) -- Farr. Kildonan, Strath of Kildonan (No. 377) -- Kildonan. Klibreck, Loch Naver (No. 248) -- Farr. Learable Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 380) -- Kildonan. Skail, Strathnaver (No. 256) -- Kildonan. Standing Stones - Achnagarron (No. 519) -- Rogart. Camore Wood (No. 148) -- Dornoch. "Carradh nan Clach," Glen Loth (No. 473) -- Loth. "Clach Mhic Mhios," Glen Loth (No. 474) -- Loth. "Clach a' Charra," Ospisdale (No. 97) -- Creich. Invershin Mains (No. 96) -- Creich.
sutherland-1911/02_014 INTRODUCTION TO INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. SUTHERLAND is a large county containing an area of upwards of 1880 square miles. As a field for archaeological research, it presents many attractions; for not only do prehistoric remains exist in great numbers, but the sparseness of the population and the relatively small area of ground broken up by agriculture have left many of these in a better state of preservation than elsewhere. These remains, how- ever, are by no means equally distributed over the whole area of the county. Its western half, from its mountainous and barren character, is extremely unfavourable to the support of human life, and it need occasion no surprise that comparatively few traces of the occupation of the prehistoric people are to be found in these infertile districts. Where man exists to-day man existed in former ages, and the majority of the objects of antiquity must be sought in the eastern half of the county, along the seashore, or by the margin of some productive loch or kyle, on the sides of the principal straths, and by the main arteries of communication. Occasionally in the heart of a deer forest the site of some ancient settlement may be discovered, but this is an exception which only gives prominence to the rule. On the many problems as to the origin and affinities of the Celtic races the ancient monuments of Sutherland throw little light. Something, however, we learn of the earliest inhabitants of the county from such memorials. The men who first penetrated into this northern land through the pine forests whereof the blackened stumps stand so thick in the peat cuttings, have left evidence in their chambered cairns, their polished stone tools or weapons, and pottery, that they belonged to a race that hailed from the Mediterranean seaboard, and reached the north probably up the western coasts of Britain. The round cairns containing cists, the stone circles and rarer stone rows, as well as the cinerary vessels from cisted interments, enable us to recognise their Bronze Age successors. When, however, bronze for tools and weapons had given place to iron, sepulchral customs are no longer an aid to racial identification, and the ethnologist must turn to evidence derived from ornament and habitable structures. The broch, the most characteristic structure of the Iron Age, reveals a Celtic influence, while numerous ornamented objects of this period found in the
sutherland-1911/02_015 xvi -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. county bear the impress of the prevailing Late Celtic art. The faint glimmer of light preceding the dawn of history, at a time when the brochs were certainly in occupation, shows the country under the rule of the Picts. With the northward expansion of the Scottish kingdom of Dalriada in the west may be connected the spread of Christianity into Sutherland and the gradual extension of the influence of the Scots which, culminated in the union of the Scottish and Pictish crowns in the middle of the 9th century and extinction by absorption of the Pictish race as a distinct nationality. Whether any class of construction noted in the Inventory belongs to this Scoto-Pictish period is unknown. With the commencement of history in the 8th or 9th century the Norsemen began their plunder- ing expeditions on the coasts of Scotland, and abundant traces of their influence may be recognised in the place-names of this county. Though this etymological influence was extensive and tells of the penetration of the Norsemen into many a strath far from the seaboard, no single structure or construction has been met with in the county whose origin or occupation is assignable to these invaders. Nor are personal relics recovered which show that the Celtic art was in any way influenced by that of Scandinavia. It is recorded in the Landnamabok that, about the year 874, Thorstein the Red, son of Olaf the White, Norse King of Dublin, and grandson of the famous Ketill Flatnose, subdued "Katanes and Sudrland" (Caithness and Sutherland). According to the Laxdoela Saga, the Pictish King Constantin acquiesced in this conquest, which doubtless he was in no position to dispute. Thorstein's rule was brief; the Chronicle of the Picts and Scots allows him only one year, and this is corroborated by the Annals of Ulster, where it is stated that he was treacherously slain in 875 by the people of Alba (i.e. the Picts or Scots). Howbeit, a more permanent Norse occupa- tion began about twelve years later, when Sigurd the Powerful, Jarl of Orkney, again conquered Caithness and Sutherland, establishing a dominion over them which lasted until shortly after the beginning of the 13th century, when the line of Norse Earls failed. After that, the Celtic element in the population resumed pre- dominance, though it cannot be doubted that a strong infusion of Scandinavian blood remains as the effect of three centuries of Norse occupation. ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES. Few indeed are the objects in the county that fall to be noticed under this heading. Place-names such as Kildonan, Kilphedir, and Kilournan, the number of early monuments sculptured with Celtic ornaments and symbols (most of which are safely housed in the museum at Dunrobin), and the ancient graveyards, all point to the existence of numerous cells or churches existing in the past, of which at this day not a trace remains. Here and there only, as in the graveyard on the island of Handa, or in that near Klibreck on Loch Naver, is a foundation traceable below the turf which may be that of a religious building. The oldest church of which any remains exist is probably the Cathedral at Dornoch (No. 102), first erected
sutherland-1911/02_016 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xvii by Bishop Gilbert de Moravia in the early half of the 13th century. It has suffered at the hands of its friends as well as of its foes, for the ruins which the Master of Caithness and Mackay of Strathnaver left smouldering in 1570, and the tempest further wrecked in 1605, were swept away for the most part in the well-meaning restoration of 1835-37. An illustration in Cordiner's Ruins, and the pointed arches rising from clustered columns supporting the tower, show it to have been a building of the Transitional and First Pointed styles of Gothic architecture. The ruined church of Durness (No. 153), dating from 1619, presents no structural features of particular interest; but the tomb of Donald Makmurchou (No. 154), contained in a recess on the left of the doorway, bears a quaint inscription dated 1623, worthy of remembrance. In the churchyard is the grave of Rob. Donn, a notable Gaelic poet. He is known as the Burns of the North, and died in 1777. CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES. Few castellated buildings of any note remain in the county, and of these none showing characteristics belonging to an earlier date than the 16th century. Of these, Dunrobin Castle (No. 269) is pre- eminently the most important. Its keep, now entirely enclosed within a pile of 17th century and later building, occupies the site, and probably incorporates the remains of a much earlier structure. The continuous mouldings in place of corbelling beneath the parapet and the angle bartisans are features of a late date. Attention may be drawn to its fine iron "yett" with a wicket-gate through it, now removed from the doorway but preserved against an adjoining wall. All that remains of the Bishop's Palace at Dornoch (No. 104) is a fragment which, after passing through various vicissitudes, is now in- corporated in a dwelling-house. It belongs to the end of the 16th century. These are the only two castellated buildings now capable of habitation. The ruined Castle of Helmsdale (No. 306), beautifully situated above the high bank of the Helmsdale river overlooking the town, is said to have been reconstructed in 1616 from an older edifice. Its chief claim to interest lies, not in its architecture, but in the grim tragedy enacted here in 1567, previous to the reconstruction, when, at the instigation of the Earl of Caithness, John, the 11th Earl of Sutherland, and his Countess were poisoned at supper by the Earl's aunt, Isobel Sinclair, in order to divert the succession of the title to her own son. Her plan, however, miscarried, for while the heir to the Sutherland title escaped, her son accidentally drank of the poison and perished along with the Earl and Countess.* The ruins of Skelbo Castle (No. 105) are now unimportant. Inver- shin or Duffus (No. 100), and Proncy (No. 152), are reduced to foundations. The mounds the two latter have occupied, more or less artificially constructed, and each protected by an encircling moat, suggest an early date for their original erection. Castle Varrich or Bhurraich (No. 526), such a conspicuous object at the head of the Kyle of Tongue, though it has had attributed to it a great antiquity, presents no features suggestive of an earlier date for the existing structure than the 16th century. Ardvreck Castle (No. 2), a ruin on * Gordon's Earldom of Sutherland, p. 146. -- b
sutherland-1911/02_017 xviii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. Loch Assynt, is a picturesque specimen of a late 16th century tower. Historically, it is interesting as the place to which the Marquess of Montrose was led a prisoner by Macleod of Assynt in 1650. Of Borve Castle (No. 264), once a stronghold of the Mackays on the north coast, practically nothing remains. Tongue House (No. 525), lying among pleasant gardens and woods by the shore of the Kyle of Tongue, is the only structure representative of the domestic archi- tecture of the latter half of the 17th century, but it has been altered and added to since its first erection in 1678. Sir Robert Gordon, in his Earldom of Sutherland, states the existence of "castles and pyles" at the following places in the first half of the 17th century, viz.:- "Skibo (wher ther is a fair orchard, in the which ther be excellent cherreis)," "Dulrossie, Golspikirktoun, Torrish (built by Sir Alexander Gordon in 1621), Cratock, Cuttle, Clyn, Enbo, Durnies, Abirscors, Ospisdale, and Clentredwale." Of these, no trace now remains. The existence of various islands in lochs, probably of partially artificial character, has been noted in the Inventory. They are referred to by Sir Robert Gordon as pleasant habitations in summer; and on one of them, viz.- the island in Loch Brora, there are still foundations of a building. DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS. Of the defensive constructions, the brochs, or massive circular dry- built towers, must take precedence by reason not only of their number, which far exceeds that of all other objects of this class, but also for the peculiar interest which attaches to these structures. From the few better-preserved examples existing in various parts of Scotland, as well as from the plans of those which have been excavated, a more or less complete knowledge is obtainable of their original form and arrangement. In construction they are built of undressed, roughly shaped stones, without mortar or cementing material of any kind. In plan they are round, almost invariably circular, with a wall of from 12' to 18' in thickness at base, with a batter for the first 8' or 10' as it mounts upwards, enclosing an interior court open to the sky with a diameter of from 28' to 34', any measurement less or more being exceptional. The height of the structure is presumed to have been from 40' to 60'. An entrance some 3' wide and 4' 6" to 5' high, roofed with flagstones, leads to the interior through a narrow passage, having checks for a door a few feet inward, and a guard- chamber on the right in the thickness of the wall, with occasionally another chamber on the opposite side. Save the entrance, no other aperture pierced the wall of the broch from the exterior. From the interior court there opened one or more small chambers in the thick- ness of the wall, roofed with converging stones, lighted at times by an opening above the doorway, carried inward as a shaft along the roof of the chamber passage. A staircase within the thickness of the wall, approached through an entrance situated on the left of the court, wound to the top, giving access to a number of floors or galleries carried round the tower, the flagged roof of each gallery being the floor of that above. From the galleries a series of openings on to the courtyard, rising one above the other, served as windows and supplied the light. Nowhere out of Scotland is a broch known
sutherland-1911/02_038 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xxxix An impressive monument of a different shape is the "Clach Mhic Mhios" (No. 474), a huge slab 11' high and nearly 5' broad towards its upper extremity and less at base, raised up on the moor near the head of Glen Loth. It is the more remarkable from being set with its broad end uppermost. None of the other standing-stones are particularly noticeable. IRON SMELTING. Wherever heaps of scoria or slag, indicating the sites of early iron workings, were met with, they have been recorded. These are situated usually on the banks of burns, and twice they were observed in the immediate vicinity of brochs (Nos. 393 and 463). That these heaps are the refuse from prehistoric smeltings seems probable from the remote situations in which they are found. STONE ROWS. Included among the miscellaneous monuments, though their sepulchral character has in some cases elsewhere been definitely ascertained, are various settings of stones rows. The settings on Learable Hill (No. 381, fig. 54) have been noted before, and appear to represent the remains of at least four different groups, each composed of numerous parallel or radiating rows. Associated in locality with them is a stone circle (No. 374, fig. 50), an excavated cairn of the Bronze Age (No. 364), and numerous mounds, presumably sepulchral, but the connection of any one of them with the rows is in no case apparent. The other two settings (Nos. 378 and 379) have been observed for the first time, nor is the relation of either of them to any sepulchral construction obvious. It is noteworthy that all these settings are situated within a short distance of each other in the Strath of Kildonan, close by the border of the country of Caithness. In no other part of the county of Sutherland have such settings been observed, nor elsewhere in Scotland, except in the neighbouring country of Caithness, has their existence been recorded. In England they are said to be found on Dartmoor, in Cornwall, in Northumber- land, and also in Wales. RECTANGULAR SETTINGS OF STONES. Lastly, attention may be directed to the object known as "Lettie's Grave" (No. 520, plate X.), in Rogart Parish, and the similar construc- tions situated in its immediate vicinity. There are small rectangular enclosures, measuring interiorly some 5' or 6' square, formed of longish stones laid on edge, and, in the case of the first-mentioned, with upright stones still erect at two corners. As the other corners have, however, been disturbed, it is impossible to say if they also were marked by similar stones or not. The meaning or purpose of these constructions is not apparent.
sutherland-1911/02_044 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xlv PARISH. -- PLATE. -- NAME. -- NO. IN INVENTORY. Loth -- VII. -- Broch, Kintradwell (entrance passage from interior) -- 467 Loth -- VIII. -- Standing stone, Glen Loth -- 474 Rogart -- IX. -- Stone circle, Cnoc an Liath-bhaid -- 518 Rogart -- X. "Lettie's Grave," Blarich -- 520 LIST OF PARISHES. [PARISH] -- PAGE Assynt -- 1 Clyne -- 7 Creich -- 18 Dornoch -- 36 Durness -- 52 Eddrachillis -- 56 Farr -- 58 Golspie -- 90 Kildonan -- 104 Lairg -- 135 Loth -- 160 Rogart -- 164 Tongue -- 183 BIBLIOGRAPHY. [Title] -- Abbreviated Reference. Annals of Ulster. Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Scotland (Cordiner) -- Cordiner's Antiquities. Archaeologia Scotica -- Arch. Scot. Archaic Sculpturings (Sir J. Y. Simpson) Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland (Macgibbon and Ross) -- Cast. and Dom. Arch. Chronicle of the Picts and Scots. Early Christian Monuments of Scotland (Romilly Allen and Anderson) -- Early Christ. Mon. Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland (Macgibbon and Ross) -- Eccles. Arch. Ecclesiological Notes (Neale) -- Neale's Eccles. Notes. General View of the Agriculture of Sutherland (Henderson) -- Agriculture of Sutherland. Guide to Sutherland and Caithness (Morrison) -- Morrison's Guide. Guide to the Highlands (Anderson) -- Anderson's Guide to the Highlands. Landamabok. Laxdaela Saga. Macfarlane's Geographical Collections - Scot. Hist. Soc. -- Macfarlane's Geog. Coll. Memorabilia Domestica (Sage). Old Lore Miscellany of Orkney, Shetland, Caithness, and Sutherland (Viking Club) -- Old Lore Miscellany, etc. Origines Parichiales Scotiae -- Origines. Orkneyinga Saga.
sutherland-1911/02_151 [Page] 104 -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION. PARISH OF KILDONAN. CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES. 306. Helmsdale Castle. - The ruins of Helmsdale Castle occupy a most commanding position on the end of a steep bank at the S. side of the mouth of the Helmsdale River, opposite the harbour of Helms- dale. The structure was evidently of the L form, with a circular staircase in the angle, but is now a mere shell. The ruin stands to a height of some 24'. The castle is said to have been erected in 1488 by the seventh Countess of Sutherland, and to have been rebuilt and repaired by Sir Alexander Gordon of Navidale in 1616. A lintel from the castle, preserved in the Dunrobin Museum, bears the following inscription:- "Si sapiens fore vis, sex serva quae tibi mando Quid dices, et de quo, ubi, cui, quomodo, quando." See Cast. and Dom. Arch., v. pp. 294 (plan); Gordon, pp. 8, 79; Sutherland and the Reay Country, pp. 45 (illus.) and 113. O.S.M., SUTH ., xc. Visited, 10th August 1909. DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS. 307. Broch, Kilphedir. - About 1/2 m. NW. of Salscraggie Lodge, situated on a hillock which rises on the slope of the hill, and at an elevation of about 450' above sea level, is the broch of Kilphedir. [Plan inserted] Fig. 35. - Broch, Kilphedir (No. 307). The top of the hillock measures some 220' x 132' (O.S.), and the broch stands near the centre of it, towards the N. end. The broch has an interior diameter of 32' from NW. to SE. and 33' from SW. to NE. The entrance is from the NW. through a passage 15' 6" long, 3' wide at the exterior, and 4' 10" on the interior. At 10' inwards is a rebate of 6" on either side, forming door checks.
sutherland-1911/02_152 Ancient and Historical Monuments - Sutherland. [Photograph inserted] Plate III. - Broch, Kilphedir (No. 307). To face p. 105.
sutherland-1911/02_153 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- [Page] 105 PARISH OF KILDONAN. The outer covering slab, and two others at 6' from the outside, alone remain in position. The passage is full of débris, and no entrance to a guard chamber is visible. From the interior, directly opposite the entrance, a passage 4' long and 2' wide by 4' 2" high leads into a chamber which opens to the left. The chamber is filled with débris, but as far as visible is 5' 6" in length and 2' 7" in width. Opposite it, to the right, the staircase rises southwards for a distance of about 15' between walls about 2' 6" apart. The steps are entirely covered with débris. The greatest height of wall in the interior is 7' 3", while the average height all round is not much less. The width of the wall at this level is about 12' 6". The greatest height of wall visible on the exterior above the ruins is 4' 6". The broch occupies a most commanding position, which has been strengthened by fortifications. The base of the hillock is encircled by a ditch some 23' wide and 9' deep below the top of the counterscarp, on the crest of which, from the NW. end round to the E., is a rampart, some 14' thick at base. At the N., on the E. of the entrance, a short outer ditch runs parallel with the inner one for a distance of about 20', and is some 22' wide and 6' deep. Some 50' from the extremity of the ditch, on the W. side of the entrance, a small oval enclosure, measuring interiorly about 17' x 12', is contained in the rampart. On the N. the hillock is about 20' in height, and about half way down the scarp there is cut a platform some 6' broad, with a parapet on the outside. Towards the S. and SW. the ground falls sharply away towards the strath, and the defences in these directions are less prominent. The circle of the ditch is broken on the N. by the approach which passes between its open ends, and is flanked by a mound between the ditch and broch on the W. side (fig. 35 and Pl. III.). O.S.M., SUTH., lxxix. Visited, 27th August 1909. 308. Broch, Suisgill. - About 2/3 m. above where the Suisgill Burn enters the Helsmdale River, on the N. side of the strath, is situated the Suisgill broch. It occupies the summit of a mound some 30' in elevation above the river and sloping steeply towards it. Away from the river bank on the E. and W. sides it has been protected by a ditch, with a wall on the top of the scarp. This wall is about 18' distant from the broch, except towards the river, where it is less. On the S. an approach passes through the defences to the top of the mound. To the E. of the approach an outer mound, some 12' broad on base, runs for a short distance parallel with the main defence at about 28' distant from the top of the counterscarp. The ditch is about 34' in width, and at deepest 8' to 10' in present depth. Of the broch itself little remains. It is greatly dilapidated, and a consider- able portion of the N. wall has quite recently been removed. The interior diameter has been 40', the wall on the N. 15' thick, and on the S. or river side only 12'. The remains of a chamber are visible on the S. Very slight remains of the wall faces exist on either exterior or interior, and the entrance is not apparent. The outer defences bear a close resemblance to those of the neighbouring broch of Kilphedir. It is noteworthy that the structure is placed at a narrow part of the strath, in the centre of the pass. O.S.M., SUTH., lxvii. Visited, 16th September 1909.
sutherland-1911/02_239 INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- [Page] 183 PARISH OF TONGUE. CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES. 525. Tongue House. - This mansion is situated on the eastern shore of the Kyle of Tongue, about 1 m. No. of Tongue. The older portion, to which wings have been added, is a long, low, oblong build- ing of one storey, with windows set in the roof. Three decorated pediments, which probably surmounted dormer windows before the roof was altered and buttresses added, are built into the wall of the dining-room. One pediment over the mantel-piece bears an orna- mental shield, charged with the Mackay arms, viz., three boars' heads couped and muzzled: in the middle base a dexter hand fessways, couped at the wrist, holding a dagger erect. Crest above the shield, a stag's head pierced through the neck by an arrow. At the top and sides of the shields are the initials DMR. On the sloping sides of the pedi- ment is the motto MANU FORTI, and against them two lions, bear- ing on their heads two thistles, whose stems cross at the apex. A second pediment bears the initials AMR, and the third the two foregoing sets of initials in a cypher between the date 1678, which is probably the date of the erection of the house. On the skew that finishes the E. end of the N. gable of the more modern wing of the building are cut the dates 1678 and 1750. See Cast. and Dom. Arch., iv. p. 372 (illus.); Origines, ii. pt. ii. p. 717; Sutherland and the Reay Country, p. 61 (illus.); The Book of Mackay, p. 282 (illus.). O.S.M., SUTH., xvi. Visited, 30th May 1909. 526. Castle Varrich or Bhurraich. - The ruins of this castle stand on the head of a promontory on the E. side and near the head of the Kyle of Tongue. It has been a small square tower of two storeys in height, the masonry of which has been coarse and irregular. There are no signs of a stair to the first floor. Nothing but the outer walls now remain, 4' 6" in thickness. A great antiquity has been attri- buted to the castle, which the character of the structure does not warrant. It is fully described in Cast. and Dom. Arch., quoted infra. See Cast. and Dom. Arch., iii. p. 253 (plan and illus.); New Stat. Acct. Suth., etc., xv. p. 175; Origines, ii. pt. ii. p. 717; Sutherland and the Reay Country, pp. 27 (illus.) and 113. O.S.M., SUTH., xxv. Visited, 1st June 1909. DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS. 527. Broch, Dun na Maigh. - On a prominent rock which rises from the ridge dividing the Kinloch River (Amhainn Ceann Locha) from the Allt Ach' an t-Strathain, at the upper end of the Kyle of Tongue, stand the ruins of Dun na Maigh. The situation is a very strong one. On the W. the rock rises precipitously for 50' or more, and on the E., where the entrance faces, the slope is abrupt. On the N. and S. the approach along the ridge is easier, and for defence in these directions walls have been built along the edge, enclosing the more level areas immediately adjoining the broch. The entrance has been from the
sutherland-1911/02_245 INDICES. (The arabic numerals refer to the paragraphs of the Inventory, the Roman numerals to the pages of the Introduction.) INDEX TO ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS. Belfy tower, 22. Brochs, xviii., xix., xx., xxi., xxii., xxiii., 4, 7, 23-28, 49-53, 106, 107, 155, 156, 157, 168, 174-190, 270, 271, 272, 307-315, 391-395, 467, 468, 477, 478, 572-530. Burial grounds (See Graveyards). vault, 1. Cairns: horned, long, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 241, 243. horned, round, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 82, 83, 84, 238, 286, 367, 454. unhorned, long, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 133, 355-361, 472. round, chambered, xxxiii.-xxxvii.,11, 13, 14, 43, 44, 80, 86, 90, 132, 134, 142, 143, 169, 172, 233, 236, 239, 244, 246, 289, 372, 444, 447, 453, 457, 539. of uncertain type, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 9, 10, 12, 15, 4`, 42, 77, 78, 79, 81, 83, 87, 88, 135, 136, 138, 139, 140, 141, 144, 163, 164, 166, 170, 171, 234, 235, 237, 240, 242, 244, 288, 362, 363, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369, 370, 371, 373, 443, 445, 446, 448, 449, 450, 451, 452, 455, 456, 458, 459, 460, 515, 516, 538. in which cists have been exposed, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 41, 85, 89, 137, 165, 244, 285, 287, 364. Castellated and domestic structures, xvii., xviii., 2, 3, 48, 104, 105, 269, 306, 525, 526. Cathedral, xvi., 102. Caves, 19, 151, 302, 303. Chapels (see Ecclesiastical structures). Churches (see Ecclesiastical structures). Cists. xxx., 41, 85, 89, 137, 209, 244, 285, 287, 290, 364, 517, 535. Crosses:boundary, 376. market or town, 145. memorial, xxxviii., 93, 94, 95, 146, 248, 250, 251, 256, 258, 260, 377, 380. Cup and ring marks, xxxvii., xxxviii., 137, 147, 252, 270, 301, 375, 383, 540, 541, 542, Defensive constructions, xviii.-xxiv., 4, 5, 6, 7, 23-29, 49-55, 106-108, 155-158, 168, 174-194, 270, 271, 272, 307-316, 391-396, 467, 468, 477, 478,479, 527-531. Duns (see Forts). Earth-houses, xxvii., xxviii., xxxi., xxxii., xxxiii., 159, 160, 210, 220, 232, 266, 274, 283, 284, 324, 328, 342, 343, 469, 537.