sutherland-1911/02_001 |
[Crown]
The Royal Commission
on the Ancient & Historical
Monuments of Scotland
[Notes]
a/
17/6
418
Rt
A1.1
INV 2) |
sutherland-1911/02_002 |
Scottish National Buildings Record,
Ministry of Works,
122 George Street,
Edinburgh, 2.
[Notes]
25
251
TT
X
49 |
sutherland-1911/02_003 |
THE ROYAL COMMISSION
ON
THE ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS OF SCOTLAND
SECOND REPORT
AND
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS AND
CONSTRUCTIONS
IN THE
COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND
[Coat of arms]
EDINBURGH:
PUBLISHED BY HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE.
To be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from
OLIVER & BOYD, TWEEDDALE COURT, EDINBURGH; or
WYMAN & SONS, LIMITED, FETTER LANE, E.C.; or
E. PONSONBY, LTD., 116 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN.
PRINTED BY
NEILL & COMPANY, LIMITED, BELLEVUE, EDINBURGH.
1911.
Price Six Shillings. |
sutherland-1911/02_004 |
CONTENTS.
ROYAL WARRANT RATIFYING AND CONFIRMING THE TERMS OF
THE COMMISSION ISSUED IN THE REIGN OF HIS LATE
MAJESTY -- iii
SECOND REPORT -- v
LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CON-
STRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND WHICH THE
COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST WORTHY OF PRESERVATION -- ix
INTRODUCTION TO INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL
MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF
SUTHERLAND -- xv
TABLE OF BROCHS, SHOWING THE INTERIOR DIAMETER IN
EACH CASE WHERE ASCERTAINABLE -- xl
TABLE SHOWING THE CHARACTER AND DISTRIBUTION OF
CAIRNS AND THEIR CHAMBERS -- xlii
LIST OF GROUND PLANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS -- xliii
LIST OF PARISHES -- xlv
BIBLIOGRAPHY -- xlv
INVENTORY -- 1
INDICES -- 189
MAPS OF THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND, INDICATING THE
POSITION OF MONUMENTS, ETC., BY NUMBERS REFERABLE
TO THE INVENTORY -- at end |
sutherland-1911/02_005 |
ROYAL WARRANT
RATIFYING AND CONFIRMING THE TERMS OF THE COMMISSION
ISSUED IN THE REIGN OF HIS LATE MAJESTY.
GEORGE, R. I.
GEORGE THE FIFTH, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of
Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Dominions beyond
the Seas King, Defender of the Faith, to all to whom these
Presents shall come, - Greeting !
Whereas it pleased His late Majesty from time to time to issue
Royal Commissions for various purposes therein specified:
And whereas, in the case of .... the Ancient Monuments
(Scotland) Commission, .... the Commissioners appointed by His
late Majesty, or such of them as were then acting as Commissioners,
were at the late Demise of the Crown still engaged upon the
business entrusted to them:
And whereas We deem it expedient that the said Commissioners
should continue their labours notwithstanding the late Demise of the
Crown:
Now know ye that We, reposing great trust and confidence in the
zeal, discretion and ability of the present members of each of the
said Commissions, do by these Presents authorise them to continue
their labours, and do hereby in every essential particular ratify and
confirm the terms of the said several Commissions.
And We do further ordain that the said Commissioners do report
to Us under their hands and seals, or under the hands and seals of
such of their number as may be specified in the said Commissions
respectively, their opinion upon the matters presented for their
consideration; and that any proceedings which they or any of them
may have taken under and in pursuance of the said Commissions
since the late Demise of the Crown and before the issue of these
Presents shall be deemed and adjudged to have been taken under and
in virtue of this Our Commission.
Given at Our Court at Marlborough House, the second day of
June, one thousand nine hundred and ten, in the
first year of Our Reign.
By His Majesty's Command.
PENTLAND.
Wt. 32869/1025. - 500. - 1/11. - N. & Co., Ltd. - Gp. II. Sch. B. |
sutherland-1911/02_006 |
SECOND REPORT
OF THE
ROYAL COMMISSION ON THE ANCIENT AND
HISTORICAL MONUMENTS OF SCOTLAND.
TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY.
MAY IT PLEASE YOUR MAJESTY, -
We, your Majesty's Commissioners, appointed to make an
Inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Construc-
tions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture,
civilisation, and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the
earliest times to the year 1707, and to specify those which seem most
worthy of preservation, humbly present to your Majesty this our
second Report.
During the summer and autumn of 1909, Mr A. O. Curle,
Secretary to the Commission, undertook a survey and examination of
the monuments and constructions in the county of Sutherland, and
has compiled an Inventory thereof, showing the situation and
characteristics of each, along with a bibliography, a reference to the
Ordnance Survey sheet (6-inch scale) on which it is noted, and the
date on which it was visited. Photographs and ground-plans have
been appended where these have been considered necessary to explain
the text. In order to render the Inventory more serviceable, maps
have been annexed, on which the positions of the various monuments
and constructions, or groups thereof, are indicated by numbers refer-
able to the Inventory. Annexed as an appendix to this Report is a
list of those monuments and constructions which, in the opinion of
your Commissioners, seem most worthy of preservation. These, as
formerly, have been divided into two classes, viz.: (a) those which
appear to be specially in need of protection, and (b) those worthy of
preservation but not in imminent risk of demolition or decay. A
detailed and illustrated account of all the monuments, etc., will be
found in the Inventory which has been issued as a Stationery
Office publication.
The monuments and constructions of Sutherland were found
greatly to exceed in number and importance those previously known
to exist, and they mainly belong to prehistoric times. Not only |
sutherland-1911/02_007 |
vi -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
have many examples of well-known types been noted for the first
time, but a large number of constructions, representing types of early
habitations, which have not hitherto been made the subject of special
observation on the mainland of Scotland, have been examined and
planned. There have been enumerated in the Inventory groups of
objects as well as single objects, so that the actual numbers do not
indicate the fulness of the record. Very few of the objects noted
have hitherto been described. Owing to the great extent of the
county and the sparseness of its population, trustworthy information
regarding its ancient monuments was difficult to obtain, and we
believe that there still exist a certain number of objects which have
not come under our observation. We trust, however, that the
publication of the Inventory will attract attention to such monu-
ments, and that intimation of their existence may be ultimately
made to us.
Full facilities have been granted by proprietors and tenants
to inspect the monuments on their ground, and general interest
has been shown in the work of your Majesty's Commission.
To the Ministers of the Gospel as well as the Parish School-
masters, and to others throughout the county occupying no
official position, your Commissioners have been indebted for much
assistance.
We view with much regret the destruction which has overtaken
so many remarkable prehistoric monuments and constructions
throughout the county owing to the facilities they have afforded
for a supply of stones for road-metal and building purposes,
but we have pleasure in bringing to your Majesty's notice the
efforts of the County Council, which for the present have been
successful in checking further mischief. Vigilance, however,
will be required to prevent a repetition of these objectionable
practices.
The attention of proprietors may be drawn to the damage
frequently done to ancient constructions through the practice of
planting trees upon or immediately adjacent to them.
The attention of your Commissioners has been directed to frequent
instances throughout the county of the excavation of monuments
without any record having been kept of the results, or plans made
of the structures. This is much to be regretted, as it involves the
loss of valuable evidence regarding the racial characteristics and
culture of the prehistoric inhabitants.
In further execution of your Majesty's Commission we have
requested the co-operation of the Town Councils of the Royal Burghs
throughout Scotland, and have asked them to assist by preparing lists
of ancient buildings and other objects existing within their bounds.
The response to this request has been most gratifying, and we have
much pleasure in bringing to your Majesty's notice the great trouble
which in many instances has been taken to further the objects of the
Commission.
During the year a number of intimations have reached us of the
threatened destruction of ancient monuments in various parts of
Scotland, and we have been able by representations to assist towards
their preservation.
A survey of the monuments and constructions in the county of |
sutherland-1911/02_008 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND -- vii
Caithness has been completed during the past summer, and the
Inventory thereof is in preparation.
We cannot conclude this Report without expressing recognition
of the continued good service rendered to us by the Secretary
of the Commission, who has grudged no time and spared no
personal exertion in the work of inspecting and cataloguing the
monuments scattered over a very wide and sparsely populated
district.
HERBERT MAXWELL, Chairman.
CHARLES J. GUTHRIE.
G. BALDWIN BROWN.
THOMAS H. BRYCE.
FRANCIS C. BUCHANAN.
W. T. OLDRIEVE.
THOMAS ROSS.
ALEXR. O. CURLE, Secretary.
EDINBURGH, November 1910. |
sutherland-1911/02_009 |
LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS
IN THE
COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND
WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST WORTHY
OF PRESERVATION.
1. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS SPECIALLY IN
NEED OF PROTECTION.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
Brochs -- PARISH.
An Dun, Loch Ardbhair (No. 4*) -- Assynt.
An Dun, Loch a' Chairn Bhain (No. 168) -- Eddrachillis.
Backies (No. 272) -- Golspie.
"Carn Liath," Uppat (No. 270) -- Golspie.
Carrol, Loch Brora (No. 27) -- Clyne.
Castle Cole, or Caisteal na Coille, Black Water
(No. 25) -- Clyne.
Clachtoll (No. 7) -- Assynt.
Dail Langwell (No. 49) -- Creich.
Dun Creagach, Loch Naver (No. 175) -- Farr.
Dun Dornaigil or Dornadilla, Stgrathmore
(No. 155) -- Durness.
Dun na Maigh, Kyle of Tongue (No. 527) -- Tongue.
Dunrobin Wood (No. 271) -- Golspie.
East Kinnauld, Strath Fleet (No. 477) -- Rogart.
Feranach, Strath na Frithe (No. 314) -- Kildonan.
Grum-more, Loch Naver (No. 174) -- Farr.
Kilphedir, Strath of Kildonan (No. 307) -- Kildonan.
Kintradwell or Cinn Trolla, Kintradwell
(No. 467) -- Loth.
Langdale Burn, Syre, Strathnaver (No. 177) -- Farr.
Salachadh, Loch Shin (No. 392) -- Lairg
Skelpick, Strathnaver (No. 182) -- Farr.
SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS.
Chambered Cairns -
Achaidh (No. 82) -- Creich.
Coillenaborgie, Strathnaver (horned long
cairn) (No. 243) -- Farr.
Kinbrace Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 372) -- Kildonan.
Loch Borrolan (No. 14) -- Assynt.
Skelpick, Strathnaver (horned long cairn)
(No. 241) -- Farr.
*The numbers throughout the list refer to the Inventory. |
sutherland-1911/02_010 |
x -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS (continued).
Stone Circles- -- PARISH.
Aberscross (No. 291) -- Golspie.
Auchinduich (No. 91) -- Creich.
"Clach an Righ," Dailharraild, Strathnaver
(No. 247) -- Farr.
Cnoc an Liath-bhaid, Strath Brora (No. 518) -- Rogart.
Druim Baile fiur, Achany (No. 461) -- Lairg.
Learable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 374) -- Kildonan.
River Shin (No. 462) -- Lairg.
MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS.
Sculptured Cross, Strathy (No. 260) -- Farr.
Standing Stones -
Allt Breac, Strath of Kildonan (No. 379) -- Kildonan.
Learable Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 381) -- Kildonan.
Torrish Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 378) -- Kildonan.
II. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS DESERVING PROTEC-
TION BUT NOT IN IMMINENT RISK OF DEMOLITION
OR DECAY.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES. -- PARISH.
Belfry tower, Clynekirkton (No. 22) -- Clyne.
Sepulchral monument in Durness Church
(No. 154) -- Durness.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
Ardvreck Castle (No. 2) -- Assynt.
Dunrobin Castle, Golspie (No. 269) -- Golspie.
Castle Varrich or Bhurraich (No. 526) -- Tongue.
Helmsdale Castle (No. 306) -- Kildonan.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
Brochs -
Ach an Duin (No. 156) -- Durness.
Achcoillenaborgie, Strathnaver (No. 183) -- Farr.
Allt a' Choire Mhoir, Strath of Kildonan
(No. 312) -- Kildonan.
Allt Breac (No. 395) -- Lairg.
Brae (No. 107) -- Dornoch.
"Carn Bran," Glen Loth (No. 468) -- Loth.
Camus an Duin (No. 157) -- Durness.
Coill'Ach a' Chuil, Loch Naver (No. 176) -- Farr.
Dun Carnachaidh, Strathnaver (No. 180) -- Farr.
Dun Chealamy, Strathnaver (No. 179) -- Farr.
Dun Viden, Strathnaver (No. 181) -- Farr.
Eldrable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 309) -- Kildonan.
Inshlampie, Skail, Strathnaver (No. 178) -- Farr.
Skelbo Wood (No. 106) -- Dornoch.
Suisgill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 308) -- Kildonan.
"The Borg," Forsinain, Strath Halladale
(No. 186) -- Farr.
"The Sandy Dun," Baile Mhargait, Strathnaver
(No. 184) -- Farr. |
sutherland-1911/02_011 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xi
FORTS AND FORTIFIED ENCLOSURES, &c.
Forts- -- PARISH.
Ben Griam Beg, Strath of Kildonan (hill
fort) (No. 316) -- Kildonan.
Duchary Rock (No. 29) -- Clyne.
Dun Creich (vitrified fort), Dornoch Firth (No. 54) -- Creich.
East Kinnauld, Strath Fleet (No. 479) -- Rogart.
Fortified Enclosures -
Auchinduich (No. 55) -- Creich.
Dalnamain (No. 118) -- Dornoch.
Circular enclosure, The Ord (No. 396) -- Lairg.
Rectangular construction, "Grianan," on islet
in Lochan Hacoin (No 531) -- Tongue.
Earth-houses-
Achinnearin, Suisgill, Strath of Kildonan
(No. 343) -- Kildonan.
Kirkton (No. 274) -- Golspie.
Salscraggie, Strath of Kildonan (No. 324) -- Kildonan.
Hut Circles, &c .-
Aberscross Hill, Strath Fleet (No. 279) -- Golspie.
Achnagarron (No. 487) -- Rogart.
Allt Cille Pheadair, Strath of Kildonan (Nos.
327 and 328) -- Kildonan.
Between Dailharraild and Syre, Strathnaver
(No. 207) -- Farr.
Bighouse, Strath Halladale (No. 226) --Farr.
Brae, Strath Carnaig (No. 129) -- Dornoch.
Caen Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 318) -- Kildonan.
Carnachaidh, Strathnaver (No. 211) -- Farr.
Cnoc an Liath-bhaid (No. 506) -- Rogart.
Coich Burn, Sciberscross, Strath Brora (No. 36) -- Clyne.
Creag an Amalaidh, Loch Fleet (Nos. 111-113) -- Dornoch.
Creag Ruidh nan Caorach, Strath of Kildonan
(No. 351) -- Kildonan.
Dail a' Bhaite, Strathy Water (No. 230) -- Farr.
Dalhalvaig, Strath Halladale (No. 224) -- Farr.
Dremergid (No. 503) -- Rogart.
Dulaich (No. 417) -- Lairg.
Feith Osdale (No. 434) -- Lairg.
Forsinard, Strath Halladale (No. 223) -- Farr.
Kildonan, Strath of Kildonan (Nos. 344 and
345) -- Kildonan.
Kinbrace Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 352) -- Kildonan.
Knockarthur (Nos. 498-500) -- Rogart.
Sciberscross, Strath Brora (Nos. 32 and 33) -- Clyne.
Sciberscross, Strath Brora (No. 511) -- Rogart.
Scottarie Burn, Strath Brora (No. 37) -- Clyne.
Skaig (No. 490) -- Rogart.
S. of Lairg Station, Strath Shin (No. 56) -- Creich.
Strath Fleet (No. 414) -- Lairg.
Swordale, Kyle of Sutherland (No. 63) -- Creich.
Tannachy (No. 512) -- Rogart.
Torboll, Strath Carnaig (No. 126) -- Dornoch.
Tulloch, Kyle of Sutherland (No. 69) -- Creich.
Uppat Wood (No. 281) -- Golspie. |
sutherland-1911/02_012 |
xii-- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
CAIRNS.
Chambered- -- PARISH.
Achany (No 447) -- Lairg.
Achcheargary, Strathnaver (No. 244) -- Farr.
Allt nam Ban (No. 44) -- Clyne.
Badnabay (remains) (No. 172) -- Eddrachillis.
Balcharn (No. 457) -- Lairg.
Benbhraggie Wood (remains) (No. 289) -- Golspie.
Caen, Strath of Kildonan (long cairn) (No.
359) -- Kildonan.
Caen Burn, Strath of Kildonan (long cairns)
(Nos. 356 and 358) -- Kildonan.
"Carn Tigh nan Coileach" (long cairn), Allt
ach na h-Uaigh (No. 373) -- Kildonan.
Cnoc an Daimh (No. 169) -- Eddrachillis.
Evelix (No. 143) -- Dornoch.
Invershin (remains) (No. 90) -- Creich.
Kilournan, Strath of Kildonan (long cairn)
(No. 361) -- Kildonan.
Kyleoag (No. 83) -- Creich.
Lairg Moor (Nos. 453 and 454) -- Lairg.
Ledmore Wood (No. 84) -- Creich.
Lothbeg (long cairn) (No. 472) -- Loth.
Skail, Strathnaver (remains) (No. 233) -- Farr.
Skelpick, Strathnaver (horned cairn) (No. 238) -- Farr.
The Ord (remains) (No. 444) -- Lairg.
Torboll (No. 134) -- Dornoch.
With Cists and of unascertained character -
Aberscross (No. 288) -- Golspie.
Achany (Nos. 448-451) -- Lairg.
Allt a' Chaoruinn (No. 163) -- Durness.
Allt nan Eun (No. 79) -- Creich.
Balnacoil (No. 42) -- Clyne.
Cam Loch (No. 12) -- Assynt.
Camore Wood (No. 141) -- Dornoch.
"Carn an Fheidh," Harriet Plantation (No. 138) -- Dornoch.
Clashmore (No. 144) -- Dornoch.
Creag an Amalaidh (No. 133) -- Dornoch.
Creag Ruidh nan Caorach, Strath Beag (No. 367) -- Kildonan.
Dalcharn, Strath na Frithe (No. 366) -- Kildonan.
Dornoch (No. 137) -- Dornoch.
Feranach, Strath na Frithe (No. 365) -- Kildonan.
Fiscary (Nos. 234-237) -- Farr.
Harriet Plantation (No. 139) -- Dornoch.
Kinbrace Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 368) -- Kildonan.
Kinloch (No. 539) -- Tongue.
Loch a' Chairn Bhain (No. 170) -- Eddrachillis.
Loch Awe (No. 10) -- Assynt.
Loch Loyal (No. 538) -- Tongue.
Maikle (No. 89) -- Creich.
Skelpick, Strathnaver (No. 242) -- Farr.
The Ord (Nos. 443 and 445) -- Lairg.
Torrish Burn, Strath of Kildonan (No. 362) -- Kildonan.
Traligill Burn, Inchnadamph (No. 9) -- Assynt.
Stone Circle -
Learable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 374) -- Kildonan. |
sutherland-1911/02_013 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND -- xiii
MISCELLANEOUS OBJECTS.
Cup-marked Stones - -- PARISH.
Dornoch (No. 137) -- Dornoch.
Grum-beg, Loch Naver (No. 252) -- Farr.
Kinloch (No. 542) -- Tongue.
Learable, Strath of Kildonan (No. 383) -- Kildonan.
Lochan Hacoin (No. 541) -- Tongue.
Torrisdail (No. 540) -- Tongue.
Rectangular Construction -
"Lettie's Grave," Blarich (No. 520) -- Rogart.
Sculptured Crosses -
Creich (No. 95) -- Creich.
Farr (No. 258) -- Farr.
Grum-beg, Loch Naver (No. 250) -- Farr.
Kildonan, Strath of Kildonan (No. 377) -- Kildonan.
Klibreck, Loch Naver (No. 248) -- Farr.
Learable Hill, Strath of Kildonan (No. 380) -- Kildonan.
Skail, Strathnaver (No. 256) -- Kildonan.
Standing Stones -
Achnagarron (No. 519) -- Rogart.
Camore Wood (No. 148) -- Dornoch.
"Carradh nan Clach," Glen Loth (No. 473) -- Loth.
"Clach Mhic Mhios," Glen Loth (No. 474) -- Loth.
"Clach a' Charra," Ospisdale (No. 97) -- Creich.
Invershin Mains (No. 96) -- Creich. |
sutherland-1911/02_014 |
INTRODUCTION
TO
INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL
MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS
IN THE COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND.
SUTHERLAND is a large county containing an area of upwards of
1880 square miles. As a field for archaeological research, it presents
many attractions; for not only do prehistoric remains exist in great
numbers, but the sparseness of the population and the relatively small
area of ground broken up by agriculture have left many of these in
a better state of preservation than elsewhere. These remains, how-
ever, are by no means equally distributed over the whole area of the
county. Its western half, from its mountainous and barren character,
is extremely unfavourable to the support of human life, and it need
occasion no surprise that comparatively few traces of the occupation
of the prehistoric people are to be found in these infertile districts.
Where man exists to-day man existed in former ages, and the majority
of the objects of antiquity must be sought in the eastern half of the
county, along the seashore, or by the margin of some productive loch
or kyle, on the sides of the principal straths, and by the main
arteries of communication. Occasionally in the heart of a deer
forest the site of some ancient settlement may be discovered, but this
is an exception which only gives prominence to the rule.
On the many problems as to the origin and affinities of the
Celtic races the ancient monuments of Sutherland throw little light.
Something, however, we learn of the earliest inhabitants of the
county from such memorials. The men who first penetrated into
this northern land through the pine forests whereof the blackened
stumps stand so thick in the peat cuttings, have left evidence
in their chambered cairns, their polished stone tools or weapons,
and pottery, that they belonged to a race that hailed from the
Mediterranean seaboard, and reached the north probably up the
western coasts of Britain. The round cairns containing cists,
the stone circles and rarer stone rows, as well as the cinerary vessels
from cisted interments, enable us to recognise their Bronze Age
successors. When, however, bronze for tools and weapons had given
place to iron, sepulchral customs are no longer an aid to racial
identification, and the ethnologist must turn to evidence derived
from ornament and habitable structures. The broch, the most
characteristic structure of the Iron Age, reveals a Celtic influence,
while numerous ornamented objects of this period found in the |
sutherland-1911/02_015 |
xvi -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
county bear the impress of the prevailing Late Celtic art. The
faint glimmer of light preceding the dawn of history, at a time
when the brochs were certainly in occupation, shows the country
under the rule of the Picts. With the northward expansion of the
Scottish kingdom of Dalriada in the west may be connected the
spread of Christianity into Sutherland and the gradual extension
of the influence of the Scots which, culminated in the union of the
Scottish and Pictish crowns in the middle of the 9th century and
extinction by absorption of the Pictish race as a distinct nationality.
Whether any class of construction noted in the Inventory belongs to
this Scoto-Pictish period is unknown. With the commencement of
history in the 8th or 9th century the Norsemen began their plunder-
ing expeditions on the coasts of Scotland, and abundant traces of their
influence may be recognised in the place-names of this county.
Though this etymological influence was extensive and tells of the
penetration of the Norsemen into many a strath far from the seaboard,
no single structure or construction has been met with in the county
whose origin or occupation is assignable to these invaders. Nor are
personal relics recovered which show that the Celtic art was in any
way influenced by that of Scandinavia.
It is recorded in the Landnamabok that, about the year 874,
Thorstein the Red, son of Olaf the White, Norse King of Dublin,
and grandson of the famous Ketill Flatnose, subdued "Katanes and
Sudrland" (Caithness and Sutherland). According to the Laxdoela
Saga, the Pictish King Constantin acquiesced in this conquest,
which doubtless he was in no position to dispute. Thorstein's rule
was brief; the Chronicle of the Picts and Scots allows him only one
year, and this is corroborated by the Annals of Ulster, where it is
stated that he was treacherously slain in 875 by the people of Alba
(i.e. the Picts or Scots). Howbeit, a more permanent Norse occupa-
tion began about twelve years later, when Sigurd the Powerful, Jarl
of Orkney, again conquered Caithness and Sutherland, establishing
a dominion over them which lasted until shortly after the
beginning of the 13th century, when the line of Norse Earls
failed.
After that, the Celtic element in the population resumed pre-
dominance, though it cannot be doubted that a strong infusion of
Scandinavian blood remains as the effect of three centuries of
Norse occupation.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
Few indeed are the objects in the county that fall to be noticed
under this heading. Place-names such as Kildonan, Kilphedir,
and Kilournan, the number of early monuments sculptured with
Celtic ornaments and symbols (most of which are safely housed in
the museum at Dunrobin), and the ancient graveyards, all point to
the existence of numerous cells or churches existing in the past, of
which at this day not a trace remains. Here and there only, as in
the graveyard on the island of Handa, or in that near Klibreck on Loch
Naver, is a foundation traceable below the turf which may be that
of a religious building. The oldest church of which any remains
exist is probably the Cathedral at Dornoch (No. 102), first erected |
sutherland-1911/02_016 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xvii
by Bishop Gilbert de Moravia in the early half of the 13th century.
It has suffered at the hands of its friends as well as of its foes, for
the ruins which the Master of Caithness and Mackay of Strathnaver
left smouldering in 1570, and the tempest further wrecked in 1605,
were swept away for the most part in the well-meaning restoration
of 1835-37. An illustration in Cordiner's Ruins, and the pointed
arches rising from clustered columns supporting the tower, show it
to have been a building of the Transitional and First Pointed styles
of Gothic architecture. The ruined church of Durness (No. 153),
dating from 1619, presents no structural features of particular
interest; but the tomb of Donald Makmurchou (No. 154), contained
in a recess on the left of the doorway, bears a quaint inscription
dated 1623, worthy of remembrance. In the churchyard is the grave
of Rob. Donn, a notable Gaelic poet. He is known as the Burns of
the North, and died in 1777.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
Few castellated buildings of any note remain in the county, and
of these none showing characteristics belonging to an earlier date
than the 16th century. Of these, Dunrobin Castle (No. 269) is pre-
eminently the most important. Its keep, now entirely enclosed
within a pile of 17th century and later building, occupies the site,
and probably incorporates the remains of a much earlier structure.
The continuous mouldings in place of corbelling beneath the parapet
and the angle bartisans are features of a late date. Attention may
be drawn to its fine iron "yett" with a wicket-gate through it, now
removed from the doorway but preserved against an adjoining wall.
All that remains of the Bishop's Palace at Dornoch (No. 104) is a
fragment which, after passing through various vicissitudes, is now in-
corporated in a dwelling-house. It belongs to the end of the 16th
century. These are the only two castellated buildings now capable
of habitation. The ruined Castle of Helmsdale (No. 306), beautifully
situated above the high bank of the Helmsdale river overlooking the
town, is said to have been reconstructed in 1616 from an older
edifice. Its chief claim to interest lies, not in its architecture, but in
the grim tragedy enacted here in 1567, previous to the reconstruction,
when, at the instigation of the Earl of Caithness, John, the 11th
Earl of Sutherland, and his Countess were poisoned at supper by the
Earl's aunt, Isobel Sinclair, in order to divert the succession of the
title to her own son. Her plan, however, miscarried, for while the
heir to the Sutherland title escaped, her son accidentally drank of
the poison and perished along with the Earl and Countess.* The
ruins of Skelbo Castle (No. 105) are now unimportant. Inver-
shin or Duffus (No. 100), and Proncy (No. 152), are reduced to
foundations. The mounds the two latter have occupied, more or less
artificially constructed, and each protected by an encircling moat,
suggest an early date for their original erection. Castle Varrich or
Bhurraich (No. 526), such a conspicuous object at the head of the
Kyle of Tongue, though it has had attributed to it a great antiquity,
presents no features suggestive of an earlier date for the existing
structure than the 16th century. Ardvreck Castle (No. 2), a ruin on
* Gordon's Earldom of Sutherland, p. 146.
-- b |
sutherland-1911/02_017 |
xviii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
Loch Assynt, is a picturesque specimen of a late 16th century tower.
Historically, it is interesting as the place to which the Marquess of
Montrose was led a prisoner by Macleod of Assynt in 1650. Of
Borve Castle (No. 264), once a stronghold of the Mackays on the north
coast, practically nothing remains. Tongue House (No. 525), lying
among pleasant gardens and woods by the shore of the Kyle of
Tongue, is the only structure representative of the domestic archi-
tecture of the latter half of the 17th century, but it has been altered
and added to since its first erection in 1678. Sir Robert Gordon,
in his Earldom of Sutherland, states the existence of "castles and
pyles" at the following places in the first half of the 17th century,
viz.:- "Skibo (wher ther is a fair orchard, in the which ther be
excellent cherreis)," "Dulrossie, Golspikirktoun, Torrish (built
by Sir Alexander Gordon in 1621), Cratock, Cuttle, Clyn, Enbo,
Durnies, Abirscors, Ospisdale, and Clentredwale." Of these, no trace
now remains. The existence of various islands in lochs, probably of
partially artificial character, has been noted in the Inventory. They
are referred to by Sir Robert Gordon as pleasant habitations in
summer; and on one of them, viz.- the island in Loch Brora, there
are still foundations of a building.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
Of the defensive constructions, the brochs, or massive circular dry-
built towers, must take precedence by reason not only of their
number, which far exceeds that of all other objects of this class,
but also for the peculiar interest which attaches to these structures.
From the few better-preserved examples existing in various parts of
Scotland, as well as from the plans of those which have been excavated,
a more or less complete knowledge is obtainable of their original form
and arrangement. In construction they are built of undressed,
roughly shaped stones, without mortar or cementing material of any
kind. In plan they are round, almost invariably circular, with a wall
of from 12' to 18' in thickness at base, with a batter for the first 8'
or 10' as it mounts upwards, enclosing an interior court open to the
sky with a diameter of from 28' to 34', any measurement less or
more being exceptional. The height of the structure is presumed to
have been from 40' to 60'. An entrance some 3' wide and 4' 6" to 5'
high, roofed with flagstones, leads to the interior through a narrow
passage, having checks for a door a few feet inward, and a guard-
chamber on the right in the thickness of the wall, with occasionally
another chamber on the opposite side. Save the entrance, no other
aperture pierced the wall of the broch from the exterior. From the
interior court there opened one or more small chambers in the thick-
ness of the wall, roofed with converging stones, lighted at times by
an opening above the doorway, carried inward as a shaft along the
roof of the chamber passage. A staircase within the thickness of
the wall, approached through an entrance situated on the left of the
court, wound to the top, giving access to a number of floors or
galleries carried round the tower, the flagged roof of each gallery
being the floor of that above. From the galleries a series of openings
on to the courtyard, rising one above the other, served as windows
and supplied the light. Nowhere out of Scotland is a broch known |
sutherland-1911/02_038 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xxxix
An impressive monument of a different shape is the "Clach Mhic
Mhios" (No. 474), a huge slab 11' high and nearly 5' broad towards
its upper extremity and less at base, raised up on the moor near the
head of Glen Loth. It is the more remarkable from being set with
its broad end uppermost.
None of the other standing-stones are particularly noticeable.
IRON SMELTING.
Wherever heaps of scoria or slag, indicating the sites of early
iron workings, were met with, they have been recorded. These are
situated usually on the banks of burns, and twice they were observed
in the immediate vicinity of brochs (Nos. 393 and 463). That these
heaps are the refuse from prehistoric smeltings seems probable from
the remote situations in which they are found.
STONE ROWS.
Included among the miscellaneous monuments, though their
sepulchral character has in some cases elsewhere been definitely
ascertained, are various settings of stones rows. The settings on
Learable Hill (No. 381, fig. 54) have been noted before, and appear
to represent the remains of at least four different groups, each
composed of numerous parallel or radiating rows. Associated in
locality with them is a stone circle (No. 374, fig. 50), an excavated
cairn of the Bronze Age (No. 364), and numerous mounds, presumably
sepulchral, but the connection of any one of them with the rows is in
no case apparent. The other two settings (Nos. 378 and 379) have been
observed for the first time, nor is the relation of either of them to any
sepulchral construction obvious. It is noteworthy that all these
settings are situated within a short distance of each other in the
Strath of Kildonan, close by the border of the country of Caithness.
In no other part of the county of Sutherland have such settings been
observed, nor elsewhere in Scotland, except in the neighbouring
country of Caithness, has their existence been recorded. In England
they are said to be found on Dartmoor, in Cornwall, in Northumber-
land, and also in Wales.
RECTANGULAR SETTINGS OF STONES.
Lastly, attention may be directed to the object known as "Lettie's
Grave" (No. 520, plate X.), in Rogart Parish, and the similar construc-
tions situated in its immediate vicinity. There are small rectangular
enclosures, measuring interiorly some 5' or 6' square, formed of longish
stones laid on edge, and, in the case of the first-mentioned, with
upright stones still erect at two corners. As the other corners have,
however, been disturbed, it is impossible to say if they also were
marked by similar stones or not. The meaning or purpose of these
constructions is not apparent. |
sutherland-1911/02_044 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- xlv
PARISH. -- PLATE. -- NAME. -- NO. IN INVENTORY.
Loth -- VII. -- Broch, Kintradwell (entrance passage from interior) -- 467
Loth -- VIII. -- Standing stone, Glen Loth -- 474
Rogart -- IX. -- Stone circle, Cnoc an Liath-bhaid -- 518
Rogart -- X. "Lettie's Grave," Blarich -- 520
LIST OF PARISHES.
[PARISH] -- PAGE
Assynt -- 1
Clyne -- 7
Creich -- 18
Dornoch -- 36
Durness -- 52
Eddrachillis -- 56
Farr -- 58
Golspie -- 90
Kildonan -- 104
Lairg -- 135
Loth -- 160
Rogart -- 164
Tongue -- 183
BIBLIOGRAPHY.
[Title] -- Abbreviated Reference.
Annals of Ulster.
Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Scotland (Cordiner) -- Cordiner's Antiquities.
Archaeologia Scotica -- Arch. Scot.
Archaic Sculpturings (Sir J. Y. Simpson)
Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scotland (Macgibbon and Ross) -- Cast. and Dom. Arch.
Chronicle of the Picts and Scots.
Early Christian Monuments of Scotland (Romilly Allen and Anderson) -- Early Christ. Mon.
Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland (Macgibbon and Ross) -- Eccles. Arch.
Ecclesiological Notes (Neale) -- Neale's Eccles. Notes.
General View of the Agriculture of Sutherland (Henderson) -- Agriculture of Sutherland.
Guide to Sutherland and Caithness (Morrison) -- Morrison's Guide.
Guide to the Highlands (Anderson) -- Anderson's Guide to the Highlands.
Landamabok.
Laxdaela Saga.
Macfarlane's Geographical Collections - Scot. Hist. Soc. -- Macfarlane's Geog. Coll.
Memorabilia Domestica (Sage).
Old Lore Miscellany of Orkney, Shetland, Caithness, and Sutherland (Viking Club) -- Old Lore Miscellany, etc.
Origines Parichiales Scotiae -- Origines.
Orkneyinga Saga. |
sutherland-1911/02_151 |
[Page] 104 -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF KILDONAN.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
306. Helmsdale Castle. - The ruins of Helmsdale Castle occupy a
most commanding position on the end of a steep bank at the S. side
of the mouth of the Helmsdale River, opposite the harbour of Helms-
dale. The structure was evidently of the L form, with a circular
staircase in the angle, but is now a mere shell. The ruin stands to
a height of some 24'. The castle is said to have been erected in
1488 by the seventh Countess of Sutherland, and to have been rebuilt
and repaired by Sir Alexander Gordon of Navidale in 1616. A
lintel from the castle, preserved in the Dunrobin Museum, bears the
following inscription:-
"Si sapiens fore vis, sex serva quae tibi mando
Quid dices, et de quo, ubi, cui, quomodo, quando."
See Cast. and Dom. Arch., v. pp. 294 (plan); Gordon, pp. 8, 79;
Sutherland and the Reay Country, pp. 45 (illus.) and 113.
O.S.M., SUTH ., xc. Visited, 10th August 1909.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
307. Broch, Kilphedir. - About 1/2 m. NW. of Salscraggie Lodge,
situated on a hillock which rises on the slope of the hill, and at an
elevation of about 450' above sea level, is the broch of Kilphedir.
[Plan inserted]
Fig. 35. - Broch, Kilphedir (No. 307).
The top of the hillock measures some 220' x 132' (O.S.), and the
broch stands near the centre of it, towards the N. end. The broch
has an interior diameter of 32' from NW. to SE. and 33' from
SW. to NE. The entrance is from the NW. through a passage
15' 6" long, 3' wide at the exterior, and 4' 10" on the interior. At
10' inwards is a rebate of 6" on either side, forming door checks. |
sutherland-1911/02_152 |
Ancient and Historical Monuments - Sutherland.
[Photograph inserted]
Plate III. - Broch, Kilphedir (No. 307).
To face p. 105. |
sutherland-1911/02_153 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- [Page] 105
PARISH OF KILDONAN.
The outer covering slab, and two others at 6' from the outside, alone
remain in position. The passage is full of débris, and no entrance to
a guard chamber is visible. From the interior, directly opposite the
entrance, a passage 4' long and 2' wide by 4' 2" high leads into a
chamber which opens to the left. The chamber is filled with débris,
but as far as visible is 5' 6" in length and 2' 7" in width. Opposite
it, to the right, the staircase rises southwards for a distance of about
15' between walls about 2' 6" apart. The steps are entirely covered
with débris. The greatest height of wall in the interior is 7' 3",
while the average height all round is not much less. The width of
the wall at this level is about 12' 6". The greatest height of wall
visible on the exterior above the ruins is 4' 6". The broch occupies
a most commanding position, which has been strengthened by
fortifications. The base of the hillock is encircled by a ditch some
23' wide and 9' deep below the top of the counterscarp, on the crest
of which, from the NW. end round to the E., is a rampart, some 14'
thick at base. At the N., on the E. of the entrance, a short outer
ditch runs parallel with the inner one for a distance of about 20', and
is some 22' wide and 6' deep. Some 50' from the extremity of the
ditch, on the W. side of the entrance, a small oval enclosure, measuring
interiorly about 17' x 12', is contained in the rampart. On the N.
the hillock is about 20' in height, and about half way down the scarp
there is cut a platform some 6' broad, with a parapet on the outside.
Towards the S. and SW. the ground falls sharply away towards the
strath, and the defences in these directions are less prominent. The
circle of the ditch is broken on the N. by the approach which
passes between its open ends, and is flanked by a mound between
the ditch and broch on the W. side (fig. 35 and Pl. III.).
O.S.M., SUTH., lxxix. Visited, 27th August 1909.
308. Broch, Suisgill. - About 2/3 m. above where the Suisgill Burn
enters the Helsmdale River, on the N. side of the strath, is situated
the Suisgill broch. It occupies the summit of a mound some 30' in
elevation above the river and sloping steeply towards it. Away from
the river bank on the E. and W. sides it has been protected by a
ditch, with a wall on the top of the scarp. This wall is about 18'
distant from the broch, except towards the river, where it is less.
On the S. an approach passes through the defences to the top of the
mound. To the E. of the approach an outer mound, some 12' broad
on base, runs for a short distance parallel with the main defence
at about 28' distant from the top of the counterscarp. The ditch is
about 34' in width, and at deepest 8' to 10' in present depth. Of the
broch itself little remains. It is greatly dilapidated, and a consider-
able portion of the N. wall has quite recently been removed. The
interior diameter has been 40', the wall on the N. 15' thick, and on
the S. or river side only 12'. The remains of a chamber are visible
on the S. Very slight remains of the wall faces exist on either
exterior or interior, and the entrance is not apparent. The outer
defences bear a close resemblance to those of the neighbouring broch
of Kilphedir. It is noteworthy that the structure is placed at a
narrow part of the strath, in the centre of the pass.
O.S.M., SUTH., lxvii. Visited, 16th September 1909. |
sutherland-1911/02_239 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. -- [Page] 183
PARISH OF TONGUE.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
525. Tongue House. - This mansion is situated on the eastern
shore of the Kyle of Tongue, about 1 m. No. of Tongue. The older
portion, to which wings have been added, is a long, low, oblong build-
ing of one storey, with windows set in the roof. Three decorated
pediments, which probably surmounted dormer windows before the
roof was altered and buttresses added, are built into the wall of the
dining-room. One pediment over the mantel-piece bears an orna-
mental shield, charged with the Mackay arms, viz., three boars' heads
couped and muzzled: in the middle base a dexter hand fessways, couped
at the wrist, holding a dagger erect. Crest above the shield, a stag's
head pierced through the neck by an arrow. At the top and sides of
the shields are the initials DMR. On the sloping sides of the pedi-
ment is the motto MANU FORTI, and against them two lions, bear-
ing on their heads two thistles, whose stems cross at the apex. A
second pediment bears the initials AMR, and the third the two
foregoing sets of initials in a cypher between the date 1678, which is
probably the date of the erection of the house. On the skew that
finishes the E. end of the N. gable of the more modern wing of the
building are cut the dates 1678 and 1750.
See Cast. and Dom. Arch., iv. p. 372 (illus.); Origines, ii. pt. ii.
p. 717; Sutherland and the Reay Country, p. 61 (illus.); The Book
of Mackay, p. 282 (illus.).
O.S.M., SUTH., xvi. Visited, 30th May 1909.
526. Castle Varrich or Bhurraich. - The ruins of this castle stand
on the head of a promontory on the E. side and near the head of the
Kyle of Tongue. It has been a small square tower of two storeys in
height, the masonry of which has been coarse and irregular. There
are no signs of a stair to the first floor. Nothing but the outer walls
now remain, 4' 6" in thickness. A great antiquity has been attri-
buted to the castle, which the character of the structure does not
warrant. It is fully described in Cast. and Dom. Arch., quoted infra.
See Cast. and Dom. Arch., iii. p. 253 (plan and illus.); New Stat.
Acct. Suth., etc., xv. p. 175; Origines, ii. pt. ii. p. 717; Sutherland and
the Reay Country, pp. 27 (illus.) and 113.
O.S.M., SUTH., xxv. Visited, 1st June 1909.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
527. Broch, Dun na Maigh. - On a prominent rock which rises from
the ridge dividing the Kinloch River (Amhainn Ceann Locha) from
the Allt Ach' an t-Strathain, at the upper end of the Kyle of Tongue,
stand the ruins of Dun na Maigh. The situation is a very strong one.
On the W. the rock rises precipitously for 50' or more, and on the E.,
where the entrance faces, the slope is abrupt. On the N. and S. the
approach along the ridge is easier, and for defence in these directions
walls have been built along the edge, enclosing the more level areas
immediately adjoining the broch. The entrance has been from the |
sutherland-1911/02_245 |
INDICES.
(The arabic numerals refer to the paragraphs of the Inventory,
the Roman numerals to the pages of the Introduction.)
INDEX TO ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS.
Belfy tower, 22.
Brochs, xviii., xix., xx., xxi., xxii., xxiii., 4, 7, 23-28, 49-53, 106, 107, 155, 156, 157, 168, 174-190, 270, 271, 272, 307-315, 391-395, 467, 468, 477, 478, 572-530.
Burial grounds (See Graveyards).
vault, 1.
Cairns:
horned, long, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 241, 243.
horned, round, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 82, 83, 84, 238, 286, 367, 454.
unhorned, long, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 133, 355-361, 472.
round, chambered, xxxiii.-xxxvii.,11, 13, 14, 43, 44, 80, 86, 90, 132, 134, 142, 143, 169, 172, 233, 236, 239, 244, 246, 289, 372, 444, 447, 453, 457, 539.
of uncertain type, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 9, 10, 12, 15, 4`, 42, 77, 78, 79, 81, 83, 87, 88, 135, 136, 138, 139, 140, 141, 144, 163, 164, 166, 170, 171, 234, 235, 237, 240, 242, 244, 288, 362, 363, 365, 366, 367, 368, 369, 370, 371, 373, 443, 445, 446, 448, 449, 450, 451, 452, 455, 456, 458, 459, 460, 515, 516, 538.
in which cists have been exposed, xxxiii.-xxxvii., 41, 85, 89, 137, 165, 244, 285, 287, 364.
Castellated and domestic structures, xvii., xviii., 2, 3, 48, 104, 105, 269, 306, 525, 526.
Cathedral, xvi., 102.
Caves, 19, 151, 302, 303.
Chapels (see Ecclesiastical structures).
Churches (see Ecclesiastical structures).
Cists. xxx., 41, 85, 89, 137, 209, 244, 285, 287, 290, 364, 517, 535.
Crosses:boundary, 376.
market or town, 145.
memorial, xxxviii., 93, 94, 95, 146, 248, 250, 251, 256, 258, 260, 377, 380.
Cup and ring marks, xxxvii., xxxviii., 137, 147, 252, 270, 301, 375, 383, 540, 541, 542,
Defensive constructions, xviii.-xxiv., 4, 5, 6, 7, 23-29, 49-55, 106-108, 155-158, 168, 174-194, 270, 271, 272, 307-316, 391-396, 467, 468, 477, 478,479, 527-531.
Duns (see Forts).
Earth-houses, xxvii., xxviii., xxxi., xxxii., xxxiii., 159, 160, 210, 220, 232, 266, 274, 283, 284, 324, 328, 342, 343, 469, 537. |
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