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[Crown]
The Royal Commission
on the Ancient & Historical
Monuments of Scotland
[Note]
420
RT
A1.1
INV (3) |
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| caithness-1911/05_002 |
[Note] PRINT ROOM COPY
PLEASE DO NOT REMOVE
TT |
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| caithness-1911/05_003 |
[Note] 1247
THE ROYAL COMMISSION
ON
THE ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS OF SCOTLAND
THIRD REPORT
AND
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS AND
CONSTRUCTIONS
IN THE
COUNTY OF CAITHNESS
[Coat of Arms]
[Stamped] THE ROYAL COMMISSION ON ANCIENT MONUMENTS SCOTLAND
LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE.
To be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from
OLIVER & BOYD, TWEEDDALE COURT, EDINBURGH ; or
WYMAN & SONS, LTD., FETTER LANE, E.C. ; or
E. PONSONBY, LTD., 116 GRAFTON STREET, DUBLIN.
PRINTED BY
NEILL & CO., LTD., EDINBURGH.
1911.
Price Seven Shillings and Sixpence. |
|
| caithness-1911/05_004 |
CONTENTS.
-- PAGE
THIRD REPORT -- iii
LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CON-
STRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS WHICH THE
COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST WORTHY OF PRESERVATION -- vii
LIST OF GROUND PLANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS -- xiii
LIST OF PARISHES -- xvi
BIBLIOGRAPHY -- xvi
INTRODUCTION TO INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL
MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS IN THE COUNTY OF
CAITHNESS -- xix
TABLE SHOWING THE CONDITION AND DIMENSIONS, WHERE
ASCERTAINABLE, OF BROCHS IN THE COUNTY OF CAITH-
NESS -- xlviii
TABLE SHOWING THE CHARACTER AND DISTRIBUTION OF
CAIRNS AND THEIR CHAMBERS IN THE COUNTY OF CAITH-
NESS -- liii
INVENTORY -- 1
INDEX -- 195
MAP OF THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS, INDICATING THE POSITION
OF MONUMENTS, ETC., BY NUMBERS REFERABLE TO THE
INVENTORY -- at end |
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| caithness-1911/05_005 |
iv -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
considerably augmented, many of these being identified and examined
for the first time, while of later cairns, chambered and otherwise,
there were also found a number of fresh examples. In the year
1870 seventy-nine brochs were enumerated within the county. The
number still in existence, or of which the sites are recognisable and
recorded, has now been increased to one hundred and forty-five as the
result of the survey. Many of these, however, are reduced to little
more than foundations, and most of them are contained in mounds
entirely overgrown with vegetation. Throughout the county some
twenty-four were found to have been excavated, and details of the
excavations and a note ot the relics recovered are contained in the
Inventory.
A new class of construction, a dwelling belonging to the Iron
Age, circular or oblong in shape and megalithic in character, was
discovered in the parish of Latheron - the remarkable feature in
which is the gallery or corridor around the interior.
Several new settings of parallel rows of stones have been found
in various parts of the county.
Every facility has been afforded by proprietors and tenants to
inspect the monuments, and interest has everywhere been taken in
the work of the Commission. Ministers of the Gospel and parish
schoolmasters, as well as others occupying no official position in the
county, have been of much assistance to your Commissioners in their
labours. Your Commissioners are also indebted to the Society of
Antiquaries of Scotland for kindly placing at their disposal a number
of blocks and plates, and to Mr John Nicolson, Nybster, for several
plans of brochs excavated by the late Sir Francis Tress Barry and
not hitherto published. We desire also to acknowledge gratefully
the help we have received from Dr Joseph Anderson, Assistant
Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, whose excep-
tional knowledge of northern antiquities greatly facilitated our
proceedings.
The objectionable practice of utilising the cairns and other ancient
monuments for a supply of road metal, though not so prevalent in
Caithness as elsewhere, was brought to the notice of the Com-
missioners in that county, and the condition of many of the brochs
and cairns bears testimony to their spoliation in the past.
We would draw attention to the destruction of many prehistoric
monuments (some of them of great importance) in consequence of their
having been excavated and then left exposed to the elements, and to the
interference of thoughtless visitors. The numerous brochs through-
out the county which have been excavated are in urgent need of
attention, without which, in a few years' time, they will be reduced
to crumbling heaps of stone. Your Commissioners strongly deprecate
interference with such structures unless under supervision of persons
skilled in archæology. The attention of proprietors and their factors
is invited to this matter, and also to the expediency of filling up any
excavations that have been, or may be, undertaken, so soon as the
structure has been carefully planned and illustrated.
Throughout the year your Commissioners have had their attention
drawn to the unsatisfactory condition of various ancient structures
of historic interest in other parts of the country than that under
their immediate review. These they have, as far as possible, inspected, |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- v
and, where their condition appeared to be serious, they have made
representations to the proprietors and the local bodies interested.
The advice of your Commissioners has been sought in several
instances in regard to alterations contemplated on old buildings,
and though such work does not actually fall within the scope of the
Commission, we have felt it desirable in the public interest to render
assistance in such cases in order to encourage effort for the proper
preservation of the buildings in question.
A survey of the monuments and constructions in Galloway is now
being undertaken, and work is also being organised for the survey
of ancient buildings in the towns, commencing with Edinburgh.
In connection with the proposed memorial at Holyrood to the
late King Edward, the Commissioners have expressed their sense of
the great importance of preserving existing examples of Old Edinburgh
architecture included in the scope of the scheme.
An architect and an architectural draughtsman have been added
to the staff, in order that the work of the Commission may be
accelerated.
We have pleasure in recording once more our sense of the valuable
services rendered by our Secretary, Mr A. O. Curle, W.S., who has
conducted the survey of the county of Caithness (whereof the greater
part is desolate moorland, involving prolonged physical exertion)
with indefatigable zeal, besides transacting the clerical work of the
Commission with thorough efficiency.
HERBERT MAXWELL, Chairman.
CHARLES J. GUTHRIE.
G. BALDWIN BROWN.
THOMAS H. BRYCE.
FRANCIS C. BUCHANAN.
W. T. OLDRIEVE.
THOMAS ROSS.
ALEXR. O. CURLE, Secretary.
EDINBURGH, July 1911. |
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| caithness-1911/05_007 |
THIRD REPORT
OF THE
ROYAL COMMISSION ON THE ANCIENT AND
HISTORICAL MONUMENTS OF SCOTLAND.
TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY.
MAY IT PLEASE YOUR MAJESTY, -
We, your Majesty's Commissioners, appointed to make an
Inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Construc-
tions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture,
civilisation, and conditions of life of the people in Scotland from the
earliest times to the year 1707, and to specify those which seem most
worthy of preservation, humbly present to your Majesty this our
third Report.
During the summer and autumn of 1910, Mr A. O. Curle,
Secretary to the Commission, undertook a survey and examination
of the monuments and constructions in the county of Caithness, and
has compiled an Inventory thereof, showing the situation and
characteristics of each monument, with its bibliography, a reference
to the Ordnance Survey sheet (6-inch scale) on which the object is
noted, and the date on which it was visited. Illustrating the text are
numerous photographs and ground-plans, and there has been added a
map on which the positions of the various monuments and con-
structions, or groups thereof, are indicated by numbers referable to
the Inventory. An appendix to this Report contains a list of those
monuments and constructions which, in the opinion of your Com-
missioners, seem most worthy of preservation. These, as in former
Reports, have been divided into two classes, viz. : (a) those which
appear to be specially in need of protection, and (b) those worthy of
preservation but not in imminent risk of demolition or decay. The
Inventory, which contains a detailed and illustrated account of all
the monuments, etc., has been published by the Stationery Office.
The monuments and constructions of Caithness were found to be
more numerous and important than was expected, and, though
belonging mainly to prehistoric times, they include a number of
castles characteristic of the various periods of Scottish castellated
architecture from the fourteenth to the seventeenth century. The
list of long cairns, the earliest monuments of prehistoric times, was
Wt. 2393/81. - 500. - 10/11. - N. & Co., Ltd. - Gp. II. Sch. B. |
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| caithness-1911/05_008 |
LIST OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS
AND CONSTRUCTIONS
IN THE
COUNTY OF CAITHNESS
WHICH THE COMMISSIONERS DEEM MOST WORTHY
OF PRESERVATION.
I. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS SPECIALLY IN
NEED OF PROTECTION.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES. -- PARISH.
St Mary's Chapel, Lybster (No. 338) -- Reay.
St Peter's Church, Thurso (No. 418) -- Thurso.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
Bucholie Castle (No. 32) -- Canisbay.
Forse Castle (No. 185) -- Latheron.
Castle of Old Wick, or "Old Man of Wick"
(No. 495) -- Wick.
Girnigoe Castle and Castle Sinclair (No. 497) -- Wick.
Keiss Castle (No. 498) -- Wick.
BROCHS.
"Hill of Works" (No. 3) -- Bower.
Skirza Head (No. 35) -- Canisbay.
Ousedale Burn (No. 204) -- Latheron.
Dunbeath (No. 215) -- Latheron.
Kilmster (No. 507) -- Wick.
"Norwall," South Kilmster (No. 508) -- Wick.
Yarrows (No. 509) -- Wick.
"Wester," or "Castle Linglas." Keiss Links
(No. 513) -- Wick.
"Road Broch," Keiss (No. 517) -- Wick.
Nybster (No. 518) -- Wick.
"Cairn of Elsay," Staxigoe (No. 521) -- Wick.
EARTH-HOUSE.
Ham (No. 65) -- Dunnet.
CAIRNS.
"Shean," Stemster (No. 9) -- Bower.
"Torr Beag," Brawlbin (No. 359) -- Reay.
Warehouse Hill. Cairns of Warehouse (No. 522) -- Wick.
Garrywhin (cairn with cist and stone rows,
No. 558) -- Wick. |
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| caithness-1911/05_009 |
viii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
CAIRNS (continued). -- PARISH.
Broughwhin (cairn with cist and stone rows,
No. 560) -- Wick.
Camster (horned long cairn, No. 563) -- Wick.
Camster (No. 564) -- Wick.
STONE CIRCLE.
Guidebest (No. 279) -- Latheron.
STONE ROWS.
Dirlot (No. 165) -- Halkirk.
Hill o' Many Stanes, Mid Clyth (No. 292) -- Latheron.
Upper Dounreay (No. 397) -- Reay.
Battle Moss, Loch of Yarrows (No. 570) -- Wick.
Broughwhin (No. 572 -- Wick.
Camster (No. 573) -- Wick.
SCULPTURED STONES.
Sandside House (No. 406) -- Reay.
Sandside House (No. 407) -- Reay.
Thurso Castle (No. 444) -- Thurso.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Bell-Tower, Latheron (No. 283) -- Latheron.
Standing-stones (setting of), Achkinloch (No.
293) -- Latheron.
II. - MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS DESERVING PROTEC-
TION BUT NOT IN IMMINENT RISK OF DEMOLITION OR
DECAY.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES. -- PARISH.
Barrogill Castle (No. 31) -- Canisbay.
Braal Castle (No. 95) -- Halkirk.
Dunbeath Castle (No. 187) -- Latheron.
Old Dwelling House, Bank Street, Thurso (No.
425) -- Thurso.
Ackergill Tower (No. 494) -- Wick.
BROCHS.
Halcro (No. 1) -- Bower.
Brabstermire (No. 37) -- Canisbay.
Hollandmey (supposed broch, No. 39) -- Canisbay.
Mybster (No. 96) -- Halkirk.
Achies (No. 97) -- Halkirk.
Achies (No. 98) -- Halkirk.
Spital (No. 100) -- Halkirk.
Achlochan Moss (No. 102) -- Halkirk.
"Cnoc Donn," Achlochan Moss (No. 103) -- Halkirk.
"Carn na Mairg," Westerdale (No. 105) -- Halkirk.
"Tulach Mor," Tormsdale (No. 108) -- Halkirk.
North Calder (No. 110) -- Halkirk.
Framside (No. 111) -- Halkirk.
"Shean Harraig," Scotscalder (No. 113) -- Halkirk.
Upper Sour (No. 114) -- Halkirk.
"Knockglass" (No. 117) -- Halkirk. |
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| caithness-1911/05_010 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- ix
BROCHS (continued). -- PARISH.
Camster (No. 189) -- Latheron.
Warehouse (No. 190) -- Latheron.
"Green Hill," Roster (No. 191) -- Latheron.
Ballachly, Stemster (No. 192) -- Latheron.
Bruan (No. 193) -- Latheron.
Mid Clyth (No. 195) -- Latheron.
Tiantulloch, Houstry (No. 196) -- Latheron.
Minera, Newlands of Houstry (No. 197) -- Latheron.
Occumster (No. 198) -- Latheron.
Achavar (No. 199) -- Latheron.
"Burg Langwell" (No. 201) -- Latheron.
"An Dun," Allt an Duin, Berriedale (No. 203) -- Latheron.
Berriedale (No. 205) -- Latheron.
Upper Borgue (No. 206) -- Latheron.
"Burg Ruadh," Berriedale Water (No. 207) -- Latheron.
Achow (No. 208) -- Latheron.
Smerral (No. 209) -- Latheron.
Latheronwheel (No. 211) -- Latheron.
Burn of Latheronwheel (No. 212) -- Latheron.
Balantrath, Dunbeath Strath (No. 213) -- Latheron.
Achorn, Dunbeath (No. 214) -- Latheron.
Knockinnon (No. 216) -- Latheron.
Upper Latheron (No. 217) -- Latheron.
"Appnag Tulloch," Forse (No. 218) -- Latheron.
Rumster (No. 219) -- Latheron.
Golsary (No. 220) -- Latheron.
"Usshilly Tulloch," Forse (No. 221) -- Latheron.
"Greysteil Castle," Loch Rangag (No. 222) -- Latheron.
Thurdistoft (No. 318) -- Olrig.
Murkle (No. 319) -- Olrig.
Castlehill, Castletown (No. 320) -- Olrig.
Sibmister (No. 321) -- Olrig.
Olrig Glebe (supposed broch, No. 322) -- Olrig.
Olrig House (supposed broch, No. 323) -- Olrig.
"Tulloch of Stemster," Stemster (No. 344) -- Reay.
Stemster Farm (No. 345) -- Reay.
Crosskirk (No. 347) -- Reay.
"Green Tullochs," Borrowston Mains (No. 348) -- Reay.
"Knock Urray," Lower Dounreay (No. 349) -- Reay.
"Achbuiligan Tulloch," Upper Dounreay (No. 350) -- Reay.
Achunabust (No. 351) -- Reay.
Achvarasdal Lodge (No. 353) -- Reay.
Scabster (No. 429) -- Thurso.
Scrabster "Thing's Va" (No. 432) -- Thurso.
"Brimside Tulloch," Lythemore (No. 434) -- Thurso.
"Tulloch of Shalmstry," Weydale (No. 437) -- Thurso.
Old Hall of Dunn (No. 461) -- Watten.
Green Hill, Wester Watten (No. 464) -- Watten.
"Bail a' chairn," Acharole (No. 466) -- Watten.
"Carn a' chladda," Scouthal (No. 467) -- Watten.
Watten (No. 468) -- Watten.
"Grey Cairn," Lynegar (No. 471) -- Watten.
"Gearsay Cairn" (No. 472) -- Watten.
Spital (No. 474) -- Watten.
Knockglass (No. 475) -- Watten. |
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| caithness-1911/05_011 |
x -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
BROCHS (continued). -- PARISH.
Tannach (No. 500) -- Wick.
Thrumster Little (No. 503) -- Wick.
Hempriggs (No. 504) -- Wick.
Stemster (No. 505) -- Wick.
"Cairn of Humster" (No. 506) -- Wick.
Borrowston (No. 510) -- Wick.
Hillhead, or "The Pap," Broadhaven (No. 520) -- Wick.
Camster (No. 522) -- Wick.
Ulbster (No. 523) -- Wick.
Watenan (No. 524) -- Wick.
Toftgun (No. 525) -- Wick.
FORTS.
"Ring of Castle Hill," Lyth (No. 4) -- Bower.
"Buaile Oscar," Ben Freiceadain (No. 354) -- Reay.
Cnoc an Ratha, Shurrery (No. 355) -- Reay.
Holborn Head (No. 438) -- Thurso.
Loch Watenan (No. 526) -- Wick.
Garrywhin (No. 528) -- Wick.
GALLERIED DWELLINGS.
Morven (No. 249) -- Latheron.
Langwell (No. 250) -- Latheron.
Braemore (No. 251) -- Latheron.
Dail a' chairn (No. 255) -- Latheron.
"Wag Mor," Dunbeath Strath (No. 256) -- Latheron.
"The Wag," Achnaclyth, Dunbeath Strath (No. 257) -- Latheron.
Achnaclyth, Dunbeath Strath (No. 258) -- Latheron.
"Cor Tulloch," Houstry (No. 262) -- Latheron.
Forse (No. 263) -- Latheron.
HUT CIRCLES.
Warehouse Hill (No. 225) -- Latheron.
Loch of Yarrows (No. 530) -- Wick.
Hill of Yarrows (No. 533) -- Wick.
Watenan (No. 538) -- Wick.
EARTH-HOUSES.
Langwell (No. 246) -- Latheron.
Brae na h-Eaglais (No. 247) -- Latheron.
CAIRNS.
Mill of Knockdee (No. 8) -- Bower.
"Sinclair's Shean," Stemster (long cairn, No. 10) -- Bower.
"Carney Hillock," Moss of Tain (long cairn, No. 12) -- Bower.
Island of Stroma (No. 42) -- Canisbay.
"Earl's Cairn," Hollandmaik (No. 72) -- Dunnet.
"Tulloch of Milton," Halkirk (No. 129) -- Halkirk.
Achanarras Hill (No. 130) -- Halkirk.
Achanarras Hill (No. 131) -- Halkirk.
Achanarras Hill (No. 132) -- Halkirk.
Dorrery (No. 133) -- Halkirk.
Dorrery (No. 134) -- Halkirk.
"Tulach an t-Sionnaich," Loch Calder (long cairn,
No. 135) -- Halkirk.
"Tulach Buaile Assery," Loch Calder (horned
long cairn, No. 136) -- Halkirk.
"Torr Bàn na Gruagaich," Loch Calder -- Halkirk. |
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| caithness-1911/05_012 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xi
CAIRNS (continued). -- PARISH.
Knockglass (long cairn, No. 138) -- Halkirk.
Westfield (No. 139) -- Halkirk.
Westfield (No. 140) -- Halkirk.
Houstry (No. 265) -- Latheron.
Langwell (No. 267) -- Latheron.
Langwell (No 268) -- Latheron.
Berriedale (supposed cairn, No. 269) -- Latheron.
Allt ard Achaidh, Berriedale (No. 270) -- Latheron.
Leodebest, "Carn Liath" (horned long cairn, No.
273) -- Latheron.
Leodebest (No. 274) -- Latheron.
Cnoc na Maranaich, Dunbeath Strath (cairn and
standing-stone, No. 276) -- Latheron.
"Trothanmas Hillock," Netherside (cairn with
cist, No. 325) -- Olrig.
"Ring Hillock," Hill of Whitefield (No. 326) -- Olrig.
Lambsdale Leans, Loch Shurrery (No. 360) -- Reay.
Ben Freiceadain (No. 361) -- Reay.
Shurrery (No. 362) -- Reay.
"Shean Mor," Brawlbin Moor (No. 364) -- Reay.
Brawlbin Moor (horned long cairn, No. 365) -- Reay.
Hill of Shebster (No. 367) -- Reay.
Achiebraeskiall (No. 368) -- Reay.
Cnoc Freiceadain, "Na Tri Shean" (horned
long cairn, No. 370) -- Reay.
Upper Dounreay (No. 372) -- Reay.
Loch Calder (No. 373) -- Reay.
"Cnoc na h-Uiseig," Lower Dounreay (No. 374) -- Reay.
Knock Stanger, Sandside (No. 375) -- Reay.
Brawlbin (No. 376) -- Reay.
Borrowston Mains, "Green Tullochs" (No. 378) -- Reay.
Sordale Hill, "Gallow Hill" (horned long cairn,
No. 439) -- Thurso.
Sordale Hill (No. 440) -- Thurso.
Sordale Hill (horned long cairn, No. 441) -- Thurso.
"Oslie Cairn," Lynegar (No. 478) -- Watten.
"Gallow Hillock," Backlass (supposed long cairn,
No. 482) -- Watten.
Lynegar (supposed cairn, No. 479) -- Watten.
Loch of Yarrows (No. 542) -- Wick.
STONE CIRCLE.
Achanarras Hill (No. 141) -- Halkirk.
STANDING STONES.
"Stone Lud" (No. 13) -- Bower.
Hill of Rangag (No. 284) -- Latheron.
Hill of Rangag (No. 285) -- Latheron.
Latheron (No. 288) -- Latheron.
Borgue (No. 290) -- Latheron.
Houstry School (No. 291) -- Latheron.
Shurrery (No. 398) -- Reay.
Upper Dounreay (No. 399) -- Reay.
Upper Dounreay (No. 400) -- Reay.
Broubster (No. 401) -- Reay.
Broubster (No. 402) -- Reay. |
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| caithness-1911/05_013 |
xii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
STANDING-STONES (contiinued). -- PARISH.
Gansclet (No. 566) -- Wick.
Loch of Yarrows (No. 567) -- Wick.
Ulbster School (No. 575) -- Wick.
SEPULCHRAL MONUMENT.
"Groat Stone," Canisbay Church (No. 25) -- Canisbay.
SCULPTURED CROSSES.
Skinnet (No. 92) -- Halkirk.
Lybster (No. 297) -- Latheron.
Reay Church (No. 339) -- Reay.
Grave-yard, Mid Clyth (No. 295) -- Latheron.
Roadside Farm, Mid Clyth (No. 296) -- Latheron.
MISCELLANEOUS.
Standing-stones (setting of), Broubster (No. 163) -- Halkirk.
Mound, "Tulach Lochain Bhraiseil," Westerdale
(No. 143) -- Halkirk.
Mound, "Tulach an Fhuarain," Westerdale
(No. 144) -- Halkirk.
Mounds, "Tullochs of Assery," Loch Calder (Nos.
160 and 161) -- Halkirk.
Foot-mark, Port an eilein, Shurrery (No. 162) -- Halkirk.
Construction, Shurrery (No. 390) -- Reay.
Construction, "Tota an Dranndain," Torr a'Ba-
thaich, Shurrery (No. 391) -- Reay.
Construction, Shurrery (No. 392) -- Reay. |
|
| caithness-1911/05_014 |
LIST OF GROUND PLANS AND ILLUSTRATIONS.
INTRODUCTION.
I. - ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.
PARISH. -- FIGURE. -- NAME. -- PAGE.
Olrig -- A -- Bowl-shaped brooch from Castlehill, Castleton -- xxxiii
Wick -- B -- Bone weaving-comb from Broch of Kettle-
burn -- xxxiii
Wick -- C -- Bronze tweezers from Broch of Kettleburn -- xxxiv
Wick -- D -- Rubbing-stones, querns, etc., from the
"Road Broch," Keiss -- xxxiv
Bower -- E -- Bronze pin from Broch of Bowermadden -- xxxv
Wick -- F -- Sandstone disc from the "Road Broch,"
Keiss -- xxxv
Wick -- G -- Polished hammer of grey granite from the
Ormiegill Cairn -- xli
Wick -- H -- Arrow-head of flint from the Ormiegill Cairn -- xli
Wick -- I -- Leaf-shaped arrow-head of flint from the
"Cairn of Get" -- xli
II. -- PLATES.
PARISH. -- PLATE. -- NAME. -- FACING PAGE.
[--] -- A -- The Broch of Mousa, Island of Mousa,
Shetland -- xxv
Wick -- B -- Painted pebbles from the Keiss Brochs -- xxxv
INVENTORY.
I. - GROUND PLANS, AND ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT.
PARISH. -- FIGURE. -- NAME. -- No. IN INVENTORY.
Bower -- 1 -- Broch, "Hill of Works" : ground plan -- 2
Canisbay -- 2 -- Canisbay Church, previous to the last alteration -- 23
Canisbay -- 3 -- Barrogill Castle : ground plan (facing p. 10) -- 31
Canisbay -- 4 -- Bucholie Castle : ground plan -- 32
Canisbay -- 5 -- Broch, Ness : ground plan -- 33
Canisbay -- 6 -- Broch, Freswick Links : ground-plan -- 34
Dunnet -- 7 -- Earth-house, Ham : groundplan -- 65
Halkirk -- 8 -- Celtic cross, Skinnet -- 93
Halkirk -- 9 -- Stone circle, Achanarras Hil l: ground plan -- 141
Halkirk -- 10 -- Standing-stones (setting of), Broubster :
ground plan -- 163
Halkirk -- 11 -- Stone rows, Dirlot : ground plan (facing p. 46) -- 165 |
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| caithness-1911/05_015 |
xiv -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH. -- FIGURE. -- NAME. -- No. IN INVENTORY.
Latheron -- 12 -- Broch, Ousdale Burn : ground plan -- 204 [Note] B
Latheron -- 13 -- Galleried dwelling, Langwell : ground plan
(facing p. 68 -- 250
Latheron -- 14 -- Stone circle, Guidebest : ground plan -- 279
Latheron -- 15 -- Cross slab, Mid Clyth Grave-yard -- 295
Latheron -- 16 -- Cross slab, Roadside Farm, Mid Clyth -- 296
Latheron -- 17 -- Sculptured stone, Lybster -- 297
Reay -- 18 -- St Mary's Chapel, Lybster, Reay : ground
plan -- 338
Reay -- 19 -- Fort, Cnoc an Ratha, Shurrery : ground plan -- 355
Reay -- 20 -- Hut circle, Brawlbin ground plan -- 357
Reay -- 21 -- Stone rows, Upper Dounreay : ground plan
(facing p. 107) -- 397
Thurso -- 22 -- St Peter's Church, Thurso : ground plan -- 418
Thurso -- 23 -- St Peter's Church, Thurso: interior looking S. -- 418
Thurso -- 24 -- St Peter's Church, Thurso: S. window from
the exterior -- 418
Thurso -- 25 -- Old House, Bank Street, Thurso -- 425
Thurso -- 26 -- Old House, Bank Street, Thurso : ground plan -- 425
Thurso -- 27 -- Carved mantel-piece in old House, Bank
Street, Thurso -- 425
Thurso -- 28 -- Carved mantel-piece in old House, Davidson's
Entry, Thurso -- 427
Thurso -- 29 -- Cross (rune-inscribed), found near St Peter's
Church, Thurso -- 446
Watten -- 30 -- Broch, "Bail a' Chairn," Acharole : ground
plan -- 466
Watten -- 31 -- Broch, Coghill (Cogle) : ground plan -- 469
Wick -- 32 -- Girnigoe Castle : ground plan -- 497
Wick -- 33 -- Girnigoe Castle : ground plan (facing p. 140) -- 497
Wick -- 34 -- Keiss Castle : ground plan -- 498
Wick -- 35 -- Broch, Kilmster : ground plan -- 507 [Note] B
Wick -- 36 -- Broch, "Norwall Broch" : ground plan -- 508[Note] B
Wick -- 37 -- Broch, Yarrows : ground plan -- 509 [Note] B
Wick -- 38 -- Broch, "Wester Broch" : ground plan -- 513 [Note] B
Wick -- 39 -- Broch, "Keiss Broch" : ground plan -- 515 [Note] B
Wick -- 40 -- Broch, "Broch at the White Gate," Keiss :
ground plan -- 516 [Note] B
Wick -- 41 -- Broch, "Road Broch," Keiss: ground plan -- 517 [Note] B
Wick -- 42 -- Broch, Nybster : ground plan -- 518 [Note] B
Wick -- 43 -- Broch, Hillhead : ground plan -- 520
Wick -- 44 -- Broch, "Cairn of Elsay," Staxigoe : ground
plan -- 521
Wick -- 45 -- Hut circle (supposed) and cists, Watenan :
ground plan -- 538
Wick -- 46 -- Cairn (horned, long), Yarrows : ground plan -- 543
Wick -- 47 -- Cairn (horned, long), Yarrows : ground plan -- 544
Wick -- 48 -- Cairn (horned, round), Ormiegill : ground plan -- 556
Wick -- 49 -- Cairn (horned, round), "Cairn of Get,"
Garrywhin : ground plan -- 559
Wick -- 50 -- Cairn "Cairn Hanach" or "Kenny's Cairn,"
Warehouse Hill : ground plan -- 562
Wick -- 51 -- Cairn (horned, long) Camster : ground plan -- 563 |
|
| caithness-1911/05_016 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS -- xv
II. -- PLATES.
PARISH. -- PLATE. -- NAME. -- FACING PAGE.
Bower -- I. -- "Stone Lud," Bower -- 5
Bower -- II. -- Dove-cot, Stemster House -- 5
Canisbay -- III. -- The "Groat" Stone, Canisbay Church -- 8
Canisbay -- IV. -- Barrogill Castle -- 9
Canisbay -- V. -- Bucholie castle -- 11
Canisbay -- VI. -- Sgarbach, Auckingill -- 18
Canisbay -- VII. -- Burial vault and dove-cot, Island of Stroma -- 18
Canisbay -- VIII. -- Castle Mestag : showing situation -- 21
Canisbay -- IX. -- Castle Mestag -- 21
Dunnet -- X. -- Dunnet Church -- 22
Dunnet -- XI. -- "Earl's Cairn," Hollandmaik -- 22
Halkirk -- XII. -- Window-recess in Braal Castle -- 31
Halkirk -- XIII. -- Broch, Achies -- 31
Halkirk -- XIV. -- Dove-cot, Dale House -- 41
Halkirk -- XV. -- "Clach na Ciplich," Thulachan -- 41
Latheron -- XVI. -- Forse Castle -- 49
Latheron -- XVII. -- Dunbeath Castle-- 49
Latheron -- XVIII. -- Broch, Ousdale Burn : entrance from
interior -- 55
Latheron -- XIX. -- Galleried dwelling, Wagmore Rigg -- 67
Latheron -- XX. -- Galleried dwelling, Langwell : previous to
excavation -- 67
Latheron -- XXI. -- Galleried dwelling, "The Wag," Achnaclyth -- 70
Latheron -- XXII. -- Galleried dwelling, "Cor Tulloch," Houstry -- 70
Latheron -- XXIII. -- Cairn and standing-stone, Cnoc na Maranaich -- 76
Latheron -- XXIV. -- Dove-cot, Forse House -- 76
Latheron -- XXV. -- Bell-tower, Latheron -- 78
Latheron -- XXVI. -- Standing-stone, Hill of Rangag -- 78
Latheron -- XXVII. -- Standing-stone, Hill of Rangag -- 78
Latheron -- XXVIII. -- Standing-stone, Latheron -- 78
Latheron -- XXIX. -- Standing-stone, Borgue -- 78
Latheron -- XXX. -- Standing-stones (setting of), Achkinloch -- 80
Reay -- XXXI. -- Sculptured stone, Reay -- 91
Reay -- XXXII. -- Sepulchral monument, Reay, from a rubbing -- 91
Reay -- XXXIII. -- Cairn, Shurrery -- 99
Reay -- XXXIV. -- Cairn, "Shean Mor," Brawlbin -- 100
Reay -- XXXV. -- Cairn, (horned long), Cnoc Freiceadain -- 100
Reay -- XXXVI. -- Sculptured stone, Sandside -- 109
Reay -- XXXVII. -- Sculptured stone, Sandside -- 109
Reay -- XXXVIII. -- "Clach Clais an Tuirc," Achvarasdal Burn -- 110
Reay -- XXXIX. -- Market Cross, Reay -- 110
Thurso -- XL. -- Old house, Shore Street, Thurso -- 117
Thurso -- XLI. -- Sculptured stone from Ulbster at Thurso
Castle -- 122
Watten -- XLII. -- Broch, "Bail a' Chairn," Acharole -- 128 |
|
| caithness-1911/05_017 |
xvi -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH. -- PLATE. -- NAME. -- FACING PAGE.
Wick -- XLIII. -- Ackergill Tower -- 136
Wick -- XLIV. -- Castle of Old Wick -- 138
Wick -- XLV. -- Lintel and armorial tablet from Hempriggs
House, now at Ackergill Tower -- 139
Wick -- XLVI. -- Carved stones from Castle Sinclair, now at
Ackergill Tower -- 139
Wick -- XLVII. -- Girnigoe Castle : view from the S.W. -- 141
Wick -- XLVIII. -- Girnigoe Castle and Castle Sinclair : view
from the E. -- 142
Wick -- XLIX. -- Supporters of Arms from Castle Sinclair,
now at Ackergill Tower -- 143
Wick -- L. -- Keiss Castle -- 144
Wick -- LI. -- Broch, "Keiss Broch" : blocked entrance
from outside -- 154
Wick -- LII. -- Broch, "Broch at the White Gate," Keiss :
entrance passage from interior -- 156
Wick -- LIII. -- Broch, "Road Broch," Keiss : north stair in
wall -- 157
Wick -- LIV. -- Broch, "Road Broch," Keiss : interior show-
ing recess in wall and water tank
in floor -- 158
Wick -- LV. -- Gateway of Garrywhin Fort -- 165
Wick -- LVI. -- Hut circle, Ackergill -- 166
Wick -- LVII. -- Entrance to Hut circle, Hill of Yarrows -- 167
Wick -- LVIII. -- Horned, long cairn, Camster -- 167
Wick -- LIX. -- Standing-stones, Loch of Yarrows -- 185
Wick -- LX. -- Cup-marked stones, Nybster -- 185
Wick -- LXI. -- Mausoleum, Ulbster -- 194
LIST OF PARISHES.
NAME -- PAGE OF INVENTORY.
Bower - 1
Canisbay -- 7
Dunnet -- 21
Halkirk -- 28
Latheron -- 48
Olrig -- 86
Reay -- 89
Thurso -- 110
Watten -- 126
Wick -- 135
BIBLIOGRAPHY.
[Title] -- Abbreviated Reference.
Ancient Church Dedications in Scotland, By J. M.
Mackinlay, M.A. (Edinburgh: David Douglas,
1910). -- Mackinlay's Ancient Church Dedications.
Ancient History of Caithness and the North, trans-
lated from Torfæus, with Notes, by the Rev. Alex.
Pope, Minister of Reay, 1734 - 1782. -- Pope's Torfæus.
Antiquities and Scenery of the North of Scotland,
by the Rev. Charles Cordiner, Banff (London:
1780) -- Cordiner's Antiquities. |
|
| caithness-1911/05_018 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xvii
[Title] -- Abbreviated Reference.
Archæologia Scotica, or, Transactions of the Society
of Antiquaries of Scotland. -- Archæologia Scotica.
Caithness Family History, by John Henderson, W.S.
(Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1884).
Calendar of the Laing Charters, A.D. 854 - 1837,
belonging to the University of Edinburgh, edited
by the Rev. John Anderson (Edinburgh: James
Thin, 1899) -- Laing Charters.
The Castellated and Domestic Architecture of Scot-
land, by David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross,
Architects (Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1887 -
1892). -- Cast. and Dom. Arch.
Chronicles of the Frasers (Wardlaw MS.), by
Master James Fraser, edited by William Mackay
- Scottish History Society - (Edinburgh: T. & A.
Constable, 1905).
The County of Caithness, edited by John Horne
(Wick: W. Rae, 1907) -- Horne's Caithness.
A Description of Orkney, Zetland, and Caithness, by
the Rev. John Brand. -- Brand's Description of Orkney, etc.
The Earldom of Sutherland, A Genealogical History
of, to 1651, by Sir Robert Gordon, Bart. -- Gordon's Earldom of Sutherland.
The Early Christian Monuments of Scotland, by
J. Romilly Allen and Joseph Anderson, LL.D.
(Edinburgh: Neill & Co. Ltd., 1903) -- Early Christ. Mon.
The Ecclesiastical Architecture of Scotland, by
David MacGibbon and Thomas Ross, Architects
(Edinburgh: David Douglas, 1896 - 97). -- Eccles. Arch.
Ecclesiastical History of Caithness and Annals of
Caithness Parishes, by Rev. D. Beaton (Wick:
W. Rae, 1909). -- Eccles. Hist. Caith.
Ecclesiological Notes on some of the Islands of
Scotland, etc., by T. S. Muir (Edinburgh: David
Douglas, 1885). -- Muir's Eccles. Notes.
General View of the Agriculture of the County of
Caithness, by Capt. John Henderson, 1812.
The Gunns, by Thomas Sinclair, M.A. (Wick:
W. Rae, 1890).
Journals of Bishop Forbes, 1762 and 1770, edited
and compiled by the Rev. J. B. Craven, Kirkwall,
1886. -- Forbes' Journals.
Lithgow's Travels (Glasgow: Maclehose, 1906). -- Lithgow.
Macfarlane's Geographical Collections, edited by Sir
Arthur Mitchell, K.C.B. - Scottish History Society
- (Edinburgh: T. & A. Constable, 1906 - 1908). -- Macfarlane's Geog. Coll.
Memoirs of James, Marquis of Montrose, 1639 -
1650, by George Wishart, D.D., edited by Canon
Murdoch and H. F. Morland Simpson (London:
Longmans, 1893). -- Deeds of Montrose.
Memoirs read before the Anthropological Society of
London - Anthrop. Society publication - (London:
Trübner & Co.). -- Mem. Anthrop. Soc. Lond.
Old Lore Miscellany of Orkney, Shetland, Caithness,
and Sutherland - Viking Club. -- Old Lore Miscellany, etc.
The Oliphants in Scotland, by Joseph Anderson,
LL.D. (Edinburgh: 1879).
-- b |
|
| caithness-1911/05_019 |
xviii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
[Title] -- Abbreviated Reference.
Origines Parochiales Scotiæ, edited by Cosmo Innes
- Bannatyne Club - (Edinburgh: 1850 - 1855). -- Origines.
The Orkneyinga Saga, translated from the Icelandic
by Jön A. Hjaltalin and Gilbert Goudie. Edited
with notes and introduction by Joseph Anderson,
LL.D. (Edinburgh: Edmonston & Douglas, 1873).
The Peerage of Scotland, by Sir Robert Douglas,
Bart., revised, corrected, and continued by John
Philip Wood, 2nd ed. (Edinburgh: 1813) -- Douglas Peerage.
Prehistoric Remains of Caithness, by Samuel Laing
and Thomas Huxley (London: Williams & Norgate,
1869).
Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scot-
land. -- Antiquaries.
Register of the Privy Council of Scotland -- Reg. Privy Council.
Registrum Magni Sigilli Regum Scotorum. The
Register of the Great Seal of Scotland. -- Reg. Mag. Sig.
Registrum Secreti Sigilli Regum Scotorum. The
Register of the Privy Seal of Scotland -- Reg. Sec. Sig.
Remarkable Ruins, etc. of North Britain, by the
Rev. Charles Cordiner, Banff (London: 1795). -- Cordiner's Ruins.
Scoti Monasticon. The Ancient Church of Scotland,
by Mackenzie E. C. Walcott, B.D. (Edinburgh:
James Thin, 1874) -- The Ancient Church of Scotland (Walcott.)
Scotland in Early Christian Times - by Joseph
Anderson, LL.D. (Edinburgh: David Douglas,
1881) -- Anderson, Scot. in Early Christ Times.
Scotland in Pagan Times - The Bronze and Stone
Ages, by Joseph Anderson, LL.D. (Edinburgh:
David Douglas, 1886). -- Anderson, The Bronze and Stone Ages.
Scotland in Pagan Times - The Iron Age, by Joseph
Anderson, LL.D. (Edinburgh: David Douglas,
1883).
The Scots Peerage, vol. ii., edited by Sir James
Balfour Paul, Lord Lyon King of Arms (Edin-
burgh: David Douglas, 1905).
The Scottish Antiquary, or, Northern Notes and
Queries. -- Scottish Antiquary.
Sculptured Stones of Scotland, edited by John Stuart,
LL.D. - Spalding Club - vol. i., 1856; vol. ii., 1867.
Sketch of the Civil and Traditional History of
Caithness, by James T. Calder (Wick: W. Rae,
2nd ed., 1887). -- Calder's Caithness.
Statistical Account of Scotland (1797) -- Stat. Acct.
Statistical Account of Scotland, New (1845) -- New Stat. Acct. Suth, etc.
Tour in Scotland in 1769 (4th ed.) and 1772, by
Thomas Pennant. -- Pennant's Tour.
Tours in Scotland in 1747, 1750, and 1760, by
Bishop Pococke, edited by D. W. Kemp - Scottish
History Society - (Edinburgh: T. & A. Constable,
1887). -- Pococke's Tours.
The Ulster Journal of Archæology, vol. ii. (1854).
Voyage Round Great Britain, by Wm. Daniell, A.R.A.
(London: 1814 - 1825). -- Daniell's Voyage. |
|
| caithness-1911/05_020 |
INTRODUCTION
TO
INVENTORY OF ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL
MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS
IN THE COUNTY OF CAITHNESS.
PART I.
THE County of Caithness occupies the extreme N.E. angle of Scotland,
projecting as a great promontory into the ocean, a feature which
earned for it from the Norsemen the name which, in a modified
form, it bears to-day - the "Ness" or "Nose" of the Catti. Nature
has rendered Caithness singularly inaccessible. High cliffs and
shelving rocks for the most part create a formidable barrier on its
coast line, while along its northern shore the racing tides and
currents of the Pentland Firth must from all times have hindered
navigation. The mountains of Scaraben and Morven on its land-
ward bounds cut it off from the neighbouring county of Suther-
land on the south, while on the west, save along the coast line, a
lonely waste of uninhabitable moorland, now traversed by the railway,
completes its isolation. From these circumstances intercourse with
the outer world in early times must have been difficult and inter-
mittent. The interior of the county, to the north of its southern
mountain range, and eastward from where Ben Dorrery and Ben
Freiceadain stand sentinel towards its western boundary, expands
in a great plain or plateau, varied here and there with a gentle
undulation, until it dips abruptly into the ocean on the north and
east. One small island, Stroma, lying in the Pentland Firth some
two miles distant from the north coast, is included in the county.
The surface is at this day singularly devoid of timber, except
in the south where the hills and valleys afford protection from the
almost incessant winds, or around the residences of the landed
proprietors, where isolated patches of woodland have been sedulously
reared.
The fringe of the coast and the central part of the plain are fertile
and highly cultivated, and there the sites of brochs so frequently
adjacent to the farms indicate an occupation and probable tillage of
the land for a lengthened period. Over the whole of the county,
except where the somewhat boggy moorland had offered no attractions,
there are numerous evidences of human settlement from early times,
and a superstitious yet fortunate belief that disaster would befall |
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| caithness-1911/05_021 |
xx -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
anyone who should interfere with the mounds which cover these early
remains has tended greatly towards their preservation.
Though the distribution of the prehistoric remains throughout
the habitable parts of the county is fairly regular, there are in
certain regions considerable groups of monuments representative of
former eras of culture. Such groups are to be found around the
lochs of Yarrows and Warehouse, by the loch of Calder, on Shebster
Hill, and in the lower reaches of the Langwell and Dunbeath
Straths.
Our chief source of knowledge regarding the earlier inhabitants
is derived from sepulchral monuments and their contents, for little
or no trace remains of the dwellings wherein they lived. Skulls and
bones indicate the racial characteristics, while the grave goods, which
by Pagan rites of burial accompanied the body to the tomb, disclose
the state of culture, the condition of material existence in this life,
and probable belief in a future state.
The monuments of greatest antiquity in Caithness - the sepulchres
of neolithic man - are the long cairns, of which some eighteen
examples still remain. These are elongated constructions of stone
varying in length up to about 250', narrow and low at one extremity,
- where the breadth is usually from 30' to 40', and the height
trifling - and from about two-thirds of their length increasing to a
width of 50' or 60' and a height of some 10'. As, however, no
perfect example exists, these dimensions must only be regarded as
approximate. At both extremities the typical cairn terminates with
a semicircular concavity formed by the projection of two low arms
or horns. The researches of Dr Joseph Anderson in the long cairns
situated beside the Loch of Yarrows, in 1865, disclosed the fact that
these cairns, so far as their external aspect was concerned, were not
mere structureless masses of piled stones, but that along the edge
of each, and around the horns, there was a double wall of building
retaining the mass of the cairn in position. Entering from the
centre of the concavity at the higher end through a portal from 2'
to 3' in height by 2' in width, may be found a passage lintelled over,
some 15' to 20' in length, leading into a chamber of two or more
compartments. Though the position of the entrance passage in the
centre of the frontal semicircle seems the usual arrangement, its
occurrence is no more universal than is the presence of a single
chamber in the whole length of the cairn. The length and form of
the chamber may vary, but that discovered in the long cairn of
Yarrows (No. 543) will serve as a typical example. It measures 12'
in length, and is divided into three compartments of varying width
by divisional stones which do not reach to the roof, set at right
angles to the walls, opposite to each other. Upright flagstones
and horizontal building have both been employed in the formation
of the walls of the chamber, and the roof has been closed in by
slightly projecting each stone as the wall mounts upwards, com-
mencing at a height of about 7' above the floor level until the span
was so reduced that it could be covered with slabs. Such tombs
appear to have been used for successive burials, access being gained
by the passage as occasion arose, and inhumation and incineration
were both practised. As far as evidence in Caithness goes, incinera-
tion seems to have preceded inhumation, burnt bones being found in |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS -- xxi
the deposit covering the floors of the cairns and unburnt remains
above. Tools and weapons of stone or flint were deposited with the
remains; and round-bottomed vessels of hand-made pottery, semi-
globular in form, close in texture and smooth on the surface,
occasionally ornamented with impressions of a finger nail, as a rule
accompanied the interments.
The numerous bones of animals found in chambered cairns show
that our neolithic ancestors had domestic animals of much the same
species as our own, though differing, no doubt, greatly in appearance,
viz., sheep or goats and oxen. They kept dogs for the chase, and
they trapped or hunted the red-deer. That these cairns are the
tombs, not of the ordinary population, but of rulers and warriors
renowned in their day, is a natural supposition, and the magnitude
of such monuments is a measure of the esteem, if not of the affection,
in which their occupants were held. The people who could erect
these tombs had a power of combination and a subjection to discipline
which distinguish them from mere savages; and the ability which
enabled them to overcome the engineering difficulties to be en-
countered in poising the massive lintels on the portal stones and
in building and roofing these chambers, was of no mean order. The
culture disclosed in these sepulchres is that of the neolithic period,
and the skulls found within them are those of a long-headed people
of medium height with clear-cut profiles and refined features. These
chambered-cairn builders, according to the general consensus of
opinion among anthropologists, belonged to a primitive stock which
inhabited the Mediterranean basin and spread northward in neolithic
times. Their general distribution in Europe is to be gathered from
that of the dolmens and megalithic chambers.
Such, then, are the earliest monuments of man still to be found
in the county. Of the same type, and differing only in their form
and size, are the round or short cairns with horns.
These disclose the same features of chamber, passage of access,
concave outline at either end formed by the projecting horns, and
structural walls on the external face of the cairn, but they differ in
their dimensions, the body of the cairn measuring from 40' to 60' in
diameter. The skeletal remains and relics recovered from such of
these cairns as have been excavated belong to the same race and
culture as those from the previous class. A small number are to be
found in Caithness, and also in the adjacent county of Sutherland,
but they do not appear to be represented among the barrows of
England, nor are they at present known elsewhere in Scotland.
Long cairns without a semi-circular concavity at either end,
judging from the results of excavation in the analogous long barrows
in England, likewise appear to belong to this period. It has, however,
yet to be ascertained by the scientific excavation of the few remaining
examples of these three varieties, whether any distinction is to be
observed among their racial and cultural remains.
Another form of cairn to be found in this county marks a later
development. Still chambered and entered by a passage, it is no
longer horned, and is either circular or elliptical in outline. In
Caithness, the culture disclosed in such cairns of this class as have
been excavated, is still neolithic in its general features, though in
certain instances the relics and pottery suggest a relation with the |
|
| caithness-1911/05_023 |
xxii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
subsequent culture, and they may be regarded as transitional. In
all probability the older culture and sepulchral practices were not
suddenly displaced, but were gradually modified by the presence and
influence of new ideas and new knowledge. As the stone age drew
to a close, and before the use of bronze became general, a change in
the quality and decoration of the pottery found in association with
burials becomes apparent. This new type of pottery differs essentially
from that of the chambered cairns. It is still hand-made, but the
vessels are tall, somewhat cylindrical in shape, flat-bottomed, and
decorated with chevrons, diapers, and encircling lines of impressed
ornament in repeating zones. The vessels belonging to this type or
class are normally associated with a form of sepulture which is
radically different from that of the chambered cairns. The cairn
may still remain, but the chamber within it, as well as the passage
of access, has disappeared, and in place is a stone-built cist or coffin,
formed of slabs and similarly covered. It is often of very small size,
measuring interiorly some 3' in length by 2' in breadth and 14" to
18" in depth. Within the cist is usually a single interment, burnt
or otherwise, and occasionally a vessel of pottery. In addition to
the pottery the graves may still contain objects of flint - arrow-
heads and knives - also beads of jet, and, more rarely, objects of
bronze. Nor is the cairn always present, for such cists are not
infrequently discovered without any superincumbent monument,
and occasionally they are found sunk in the top or somewhere
within the limits of earlier cairns. Such a cist, found on the farm
of Glengolly near Thurso, contained a typical urn of the class
described which is preserved in the Thurso Museum. Another at
Acharole, Watten, yielded besides an urn (now in the National
Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh) a skeleton with characters quite
distinct from those of the chambered-cairn skeletons. We are here
on the track of a new immigrant race which entered Britain
towards the end of the stone age, and buried their dead in short cists.
They were a people of medium stature, and their distinguishing
physical characteristic was a greater breadth of skull in proportion
to its length than in the case of the chamber-cairn folk, while their
faces were low and broad instead of high and narrow like the faces
of their predecessors. They belonged to a primitive stock which
occupied central Europe towards the end of the stone age, and it is
not certain whether they had a knowledge of bronze when they first
invaded Britain. It is certain, however, that they soon acquired
bronze tools, and their fashion of sepulture prevailed through the
age of bronze, while their culture modified, and ultimately displaced,
that of the chambered cairns.
Another class of monument associated with the sepulchral usages
of the bronze age is the stone circle.
Around certain cairns of the neolithic age have been noted upright
stones set in their outline at irregular intervals. They resemble
buttresses, and probably in the original state of the cairn performed a
somewhat analogous office in preventing the spreading of the structure.
Such stones may be seen in the sides of the cairn at the N. end of
Loch Calder (No. 135). A similar arrangement of boulders in the
outline of a number of round cairns, though not so frequent as in
Sutherland, is still observable in this county (No. 72). A develop- |
|
| caithness-1911/05_024 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxiii
ment from these by gradations, not found here, has been suggested for
the circles of upright stones known to modern antiquaries as stone
circles, and to the public in the past as druidical circles. For the
druidical attribution, originally propounded by Stukeley in the end
of the 17th century, there is not one grain of evidence, though the
popular fallacy disseminated by the older maps and handbooks is
difficult to eradicate. Stone circles are to be found over the greater
part of Britain, and in form and size they present many variations.
Their sepulchral character is established by the discovery, in the
central area of many of them, of cists containing interments and
pottery of the bronze age; but whether the circle had any religious
significance, or what the nature of the religion was which these
people of the bronze age affected, we cannot tell.
In a similar category with these circles may be placed the stone
rows, of less general distribution, but whereof the frequency in
Caithness is remarkable. These monuments are to be found also in
the County of Sutherland, as well as in Dartmoor, in Cornwall,
Northumberland, and Wales. It may be assumed that they formerly
existed in many districts where, in common with numerous other
structures and monuments, they have been obliterated in the process
of agriculture. In Scotland, though their association with interment
is not invariable, they are in certain cases found radiating from small
cairns containing burials of the bronze age (see No. 558).
The numerous tall standing-stones to be met with throughout the
county, singly or in pairs, may probably belong to this period, but
their true significance does not yet appear to be established.
Though the sepulchral monuments of the bronze period show
fewer structural features than those of the neolithic, it is connected
with the bronze age that we first begin to find definite traces of the
habitations of the people.
Oval or circular banks of turf, or walls of stone, of low elevation
and enclosing an area of some 20' to 30' diameter, to be met with on
the drier portions of the moorland, are the remains of the dwellings
of the early inhabitants, and are known as hut circles. In Scotland
little research has been made on these sites, but exploration among
similar remains in Dartmoor and elsewhere in England has established
their relationship to the bronze age, if not to late neolithic times.
But while this is the case in the south, it must be borne in mind that
in the remote parts of our island primitive types of structure must
have lingered on, so that the connection of the hut circle with the iron
age, and possibly with mediæval times, is highly probable. It may
be remarked that hut circles are not numerous in this county, and
that where they do exist it is principally in the south. The fashion
of roofing these structures is still a matter of speculation, but in all
probability branches must have formed a considerable part of the
material employed. As presumably during the prehistoric period
the same races occupied both this county and Sutherland, where
hut circles are particularly in evidence, it may be that an absence of
timber in Caithness, even at that early period, produced a modification
in the style of their dwellings. Certain ruins, to be described here-
after, are remarkable for the employment of stone flags of large size to
form a low roof, a practice not observed outside the county boundary,
but probably adopted for the same reason. |
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| caithness-1911/05_025 |
xxiv -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
Certain of the hill forts of England have been definitely assigned to
the age of bronze, but without excavation it would be rash to attribute
the construction of the forts of Caithness to any particular period.
The knowledge of iron is calculated to have reached Britain
between the 6th and 4th centuries B.C., and its introduction is
commonly attributed to Celtic tribes who are believed to have
invaded the island about this time. The art of the early iron age, as
revealed by the objects of use or ornament referrable to this epoch,
has therefore been called "Celtic" or "late Celtic" art.
During the iron age the fashion of sepulture was still further
modified, and though the cairn burial to some extent survived,
the cairns became low and unimportant, while more frequently the
cists were placed in the earth with no monument superimposed. The
perishable nature of iron has resulted in a difficulty of determining
conclusively the burials of this period, and in Scotland, up to the
present date, there are on record only two reports of excavations of
burials from which iron grave goods have been recovered. The bones
from these interments yielded no very definite anatomical data, and
we have therefore no evidence of a special racial type which can be
identified with the early iron age. The proof of the "Celtic" invasion
must be sought in linguistic, archæological, and other data. In the
absence of graves which can be attributed to this period, it is to the
abodes of the living rather than to the houses of the dead that we
must turn for enlightenment.
Over the whole region of the county, with the exception of the
inaccessible and infertile tracts of moorland, are to be observed grass-
covered hillocks of from 70' to 100' in diameter, and 10' to 12' in height.
Locally they are called "tullochs." These mounds contain the ruins of
brochs, structures of more than ordinary interest, and very numerous
in Caithness where the remains of some one hundred and forty-five
have been noted. From the not inconsiderable ruins of examples
in other parts of Scotland, as well as from the excavated brochs
within the county, we are enabled to form a fairly complete picture
of one of these buildings in its original condition. In plan it was
cylindrical, having a wall from 12' to 15' in thickness, and built of dry
masonry without any adhesive material, enclosing an interior court-
yard open to the sky, with a diameter of 30' or thereby. The wall
of the broch rose to a height of from 45' to 50' and had occasionally
a considerable batter on the exterior for the first 10' or 12'. No
opening pierced the outer wall save the doorway on the ground level.
Through this doorway, which was built up on each side to a height
of about 5', with a width of some 3', and surmounted by a lintel,
access to the interior was gained by a passage directly through the
wall. The passage was roofed with large flags between which a
sufficient space was sometimes left to assail from above any foe who
had effected an entrance. Within the passage, some 6' or thereby,
were checks for a door, and in some instances there were additional
door checks nearer the inner extremity. Behind the first door checks
entering from one side of the passage there was usually a guard
chamber, fashioned in the thickness of the wall and measuring some
7' or 8' in length by 5' to 6' in width. Opening off the court were
one or more small oval chambers, also in the thickness of the wall,
while about a quarter-way round the periphery a passage some 3' to |
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| caithness-1911/05_026 |
Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE A. - The Broch of Mousa, on the Island of Mousa, Shetland.
To face p. xxv. |
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| caithness-1911/05_027 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxv
4' long led to the foot of a staircase which rose up to the right
having a chamber invariably opposite its commencement. The stair
as it spirally circled upwards gave access to a series of horizontal
galleries, one above the other, the slab roof of one gallery forming
the floor of that above. These galleries were lighted by vertical rows
of rectangular openings forming small windows looking into the
interior. In the interior, on the ground level, might be found a
hearth placed within a square enclosure formed of upright slabs,
and occasionally a well cut out of the rock and approachable by
steps, with sometimes also an underground chamber or cellar of
similar formation for the storage of grain and other provisions.
Tank-like constructions, formed of flagstones set on edge in the floor,
have been found in several cases, and a well-made drain passing out
under the entrance passage was not an uncommon feature.
No broch exists beyond the limits of Scotland; and though the
range of the type is from Orkney and Shetland to Berwickshire, their
numbers greatly predominate in the northern counties. When they
were first built, or last inhabited, are alike unknown. Comparatively
few have been excavated, but a great similarity in the relics re-
covered characterises them all: querns, both rotary and of the saddle
form, stone mortars and pounders in abundance, drinking-cups and
lamps of steatite, long-handled combs for weaving on the loom and
whorls for the spindle, shards of coarse pottery (for the most part
undecorated) and occasionally fragments of terra sigillata or other
Roman ware.
No object characteristic of neolithic culture has so far been found
in a broch, nor any implement or weapon peculiar to the age of
bronze. The type of pottery, the fashion and ornamentation of the
combs and other relics, are those peculiar to the early iron age or
late Celtic period of art. Within two of the Caithness brochs were
found quartzite pebbles, painted or stained with spots similar to others
found in the cave of Mas d'Azil in the Pyrenees, and referred there to
the period of transition between the palæolithic and neolithic cultures.
The occurrence of these pebbles alone, whose purpose is unknown,
is not sufficient to place the brochs in point of antiquity previous to
the early iron age, to which the other relics are referable.
The development of the broch is still obscure, but no more
complete adaptation of the materials available to the end desired -
the construction of an impregnable dwelling - could be devised. The
people who dwelt in them had herds of cattle, and possibly flocks
of sheep. They owned horses, and tilled the soil, on which they
grew crops of oats and bere. They were also competent judges of
the quality of the land, as it is over the most fertile tracts that the
ruins of the brochs mostly occur, while numerous instances of their
occurrence adjacent to modern farm buildings throughout the county
could be cited. The comparatively close proximity to each other in
which they frequently stand, marks them out as the dwellings of
families rather than of the heads or chiefs of larger social organisa-
tions. Only one example remains in an approximately perfect state,
viz., the broch of Mousa in Shetland (shown in Plate A) which still
exists to a height of 45', and it alone appears on the pages of history
- it being recorded in the Orkneyinga Saga, that about the year 1155,
Erlend carried off the widow of Maddad, Earl of Athol, and taking |
|
| caithness-1911/05_028 |
xxvi -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
up his residence in Moseyarborg, held it against the attack of her
son Harald, Earl of Orkney, while the Saga of Egil Skalagrimson
tells of a temporary occupation of it about A.D. 900.
Over what period the brochs continued to be built we do not
know, but it is probable that many centuries intervened between the
erection of the first and of the last. By the enterprise of the late
Sir Francis Tress Barry, more have been excavated in Caithness than
elsewhere, but much scientific exploration must be carried on over
Scotland before their history and development is fully revealed.
To the period of the iron age also belong the underground chambers
and galleries known as earth-houses. Probably owing to the shallow
nature of the soil there are few of these in Caithness.
Almost before the latest brochs could have been in ruins we are
on the borders of historic times. Before the close of the 5th century
of our era a colony of Dalriadic Scots from Ireland, established
themselves in Argyllshire, where they founded a kingdom, with
their capital at Dunadd. They were Christians, and to them came
Columba, with a band of twelve disciples, in the year 563, and
settled in the island of Iona. Caithness was at this time a part of
the kingdom of the Northern Picts, ruled over by Brude, whose
capital was near the site of the modern town of Inverness. Thither
St Columba journeyed within two years of his landing in the west,
and after gaining access to the king by miraculous agency, as it is
related, he converted him and his people to Christianity. Subsequent
to this date, therefore, the missionaries of the Irish church began to
visit the county, building churches, as they went, for their converts,
and dedicating them to their saints.
Though dedications are no sure guide to the dates of erection of
churches, it may be presumed that those to saints purely Celtic, and
not in the Roman hagiology, are referable to the period of the Celtic
church. To this period may have belonged the original church of
Olrig, known as St Coomb's, and the church of Dirlot, dedicated to
St Columba; the chapel near Strathmore, dedicated to St Ciaran; the
church at Wick bearing the name of St Fergus; St Ninian's chapel
at Wick; the church of St Trostan at Westfield; and probably the
chapel of St Tears, whose name is supposed to be a corruption; St
Maddan's at Freswick; and St Duthac's in the Moss of Kilmster.
The sculptured monuments bearing inscriptions in Ogham characters
(a variety of Irish monumental script) and symbols of unknown
meaning, are also to be associated with the Celtic church. Of these,
seven have been found in Caithness, though only three now remain
in the county.
With the coming of the Norsemen the history of Caithness may be
said to commence. From the end of the 8th century the Vikings
infested the northern and western seas, spreading terror, and leaving
desolation in their tracks. Twice within five years they destroyed
the monastery of Iona, on the second visit slaying sixty-eight of its
occupants; and in the year 852 they conquerd Dublin, where Olaf
the White established a kingdom. By the victory of Harald Harfager,
or the Fair-Haired, in 872, which made him sole king of Norway,
many of the wealthy landowners were dispossessed, and fled to
Orkney, making these islands a convenient base from which they
issued to plunder and vex the Norwegian kingdom. Harald collected |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxvii
a powerful fleet, and subdued the northern and western isles, con-
ferring on Rognvald, Earl of Moeri, the isles of Orkney and Shetland,
with the title of Earl of Orkney. Rognvald made over his new
possessions to his brother Sigurd; Sigurd, allying himself with
Thorstein the Red, son of Olaf the White, king of Dublin, crossed
to the mainland, and, subduing the Catti who occupied Caithness and
Sutherland as far south as Ekkialsbakki, now identified as the Oykel,
added their lands to the earldom. Throughout the period of the
Norse Earldom, however, the dominion of the king of Scots in regard
to Caithness was probably never relinquished, and it appears to have
received early acknowledgment. The Norse udal system of tenure
was productive of much ill-will between the joint holders of the
earldom, and appeals for support to the king of Scots, from one or
other of the rivals, occur from an early date. Sigurd the Stout, who
fell at Clontarf in 1014, married a daughter of Malcom II,. and
many other blood ties were doubtless formed between the two races.
Duncan, the native maormor or chief, is mentioned in the Orkneyinga
Saga as marrying the daughter of Thorstein the Red, about the year
875 A.D., and one Maddad is referred to as "appointed over Caithness
by the king of Scots" nearly 200 years later.
To the end of the 10th century the Norsemen still retained their
pagan faith, but there is no record to show that they interfered with
the Celtic church in Caithness. In the year 995, Olaf Trygvison,
who had established the Christian religion in Norway, encountering
Sigurd, Earl of Orkney, as he returned from a cruise in the western
seas, forced him to accept the faith. Earl Sigurd, however, a convert
by compulsion, retained a lingering affection for his old belief till his
death in 1014. This year may thus be taken to mark the termina-
tion of the pagan period of the Norse rule in Caithness.
The date of the foundation of the bishopric is unknown, but it is
assumed that Andrew, who received a grant of land from King David
in 1153, was the first bishop. The see included Sutherland as well
as Caithness, and the cathedral church was at Dornoch, where, as well
as at Halkirk and Scrabster, the bishop had a residence.
With the murder of Earl John in 1231, while taking refuge at
Thurso, in the cellar of an inn which had been set on fire, there ended
the line of the Norwegian earls who, for a period of 350 years, had
ruled Orkney and Caithness. The tale of their rule may be read in
the graphic narrative of the Orkneyinga Saga, believed to have been
written in the 13th century by Biarni Kolbeinson, Bishop of Orkney
from 1188 - 1223 A.D.
The Scandinavian influence on the topography and ethnology of
the county has left its impress to a remarkable degree, though the
absence of any peculiar system of tenure, or of customs of Scandi-
navian origin, such as are to be found in the neighbouring islands,
tends to show that the Norwegian occupation did not imply the
extirpation or eviction of the older inhabitants. The Celtic influence
still remains predominant in the west and southwest, while an
imaginary line drawn from the north of the Forss Water southwards
to Latheron, roughly divides the areas of the Celtic and Scandinavian
place-names.
There are in Caithness no remains of churches of distinctly Norse
type, though the chapel and hospital dedicated to St Magnus may |
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xxviii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
originally have been of Norse construction. The oldest church,
St Peter's, or St Mary's, at Lybster in Reay, may be of as early a
date as the 12th century.
A few relics of the Viking period have been found in the county.
On the summit of the mound covering a broch near Castletown was
found in 1786, beneath a flat stone, a cist containing an unburnt
burial, accompanied by two oval, bowl-shaped brooches of the type
worn by women during the pagan period of the Norse invasions.
Along with them were a bracelet of coarse jet and a bone pin 4" in
length, all of which are now preserved in the National Museum of
Antiquities in Edinburgh. In 1837 two similar brooches were found
in a full length stone cist in a gravel hillock on the farm of Wester-
seat, near Wick. Beside the Kirk o' Tang were discovered seven
penannular bracelets of silver, and near the ruined church of St Peter's
in Thurso, on the top of a cist containing an unburnt burial, a
portion of grave cross (No. 446), inscribed in runic characters, which
is preserved in the Thurso Museum.
With the exception of the line of the Norse earls, the earldom
of Caithness, from which was now disjoined the County of Sutherland,
passed to Malise, Earl of Strathern, and, after being held by various
families, was finally settled, in 1455, on William Sinclair of Rosslyn,
Lord High Chancellor of Scotland.
Being so remote from the centre of the kingdom, the county has
not been associated in any particular degree with the stirring events
of Scottish history. The history of the Sinclair earls and their almost
incessant feuds with the neighbouring earls of Sutherland; the
quarrels of the leading families - Sinclairs and Sutherlands, Keiths,
Oliphants, and Gunns, furnish the chief materials of its story. This
may be read in Calder's History of Caithness, the main authority for
the greater part of which is Sir Robert Gordon's Earldom of Suther-
land; while in a recent compilation, The County of Caithness, the
various aspects of the county's development are treated of at length.
PART II.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
The early ecclesiastical structures in Caithness, though originally
numerous, are now for the most part reduced to mere foundations.
The styles of Gothic architecture do not seem to have penetrated
into this remote county, though features of late date, such as the
pointed windows in St Peter's, Thurso, occur in one or two instances,
and the greater number of the structures have been small chapels,
rudely built of the native slate, without mortar, and unrelieved by
architectural ornament or enrichment.
The mere sites of chapels and churches number over thirty, and
to these are to be added to complete the total the considerable ruins
of St Mary's at Lybster in Reay parish, St Thomas' at Skinnet,
St Magnus' at Spittal, St Peter's at Thurso, and St Trothan's at
Olrig, as well as the parish churches of Dunnet and Canisbay, both
still in use.
The most remarkable church, and that of earliest date, is St
Mary's at Lybster (No. 388). In its main features, although |
|
| caithness-1911/05_031 |
HISTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxix
chancelled, it bears a strong resemblance to some of the rude chapels
to be found on the islands to the W. and N. of Scotland. The entrance
doorway, now built up, is situated in the centre of the W. wall, and has
jambs which incline upwards, while in its existing walls there is no
sign of a window, though possibly in the E. gable of the chancel, now
gone, a narrow slit may have existed as in the primitive chapels. The
nave and chancel are divided by a solid wall pierced by a low doorway,
similar to that which gave access to the nave. Though it may not
be possible definitely to date this structure, it probably belongs to
a period as remote as the 12th century, and is certainly one of the
earliest chancelled churches on the mainland of Scotland. St Peter's
Church, Thurso (No. 418), appears in its present form to be the
result of various alterations made to meet the requirements of
different times, and probably the greater part of the building dates
from the 16th or 17th century. Its plan discloses in the base of the
tower a small, low-vaulted, apsidal cell, square on the outside, now
unfortunately inaccessible. This cell has an early form quite un-
related in style to either the nave or transepts of the church, and
is possibly a relic of 12th century date. The church of St Thomas
at Skinnet (No. 91) is a chancelled building, with no architectural
features to indicate its precise period of erection, but it evidently
occupies the site of a much older structure, as the finely carved,
sculptured stone (No. 445), now in the Thurso Museum, was found
built into its S. wall. The remains of a Celtic cross (No. 93) are
still to be seen on a slab standing adjacent to the doorway. The
churches of Dunnet and Canisbay (Nos. 61 and 23), both on the
north coast, are of Pre-Reformation date, possibly 14th century, and
much resemble one another, each having a square tower in the centre
of the west front, surmounted with a roof of the saddle-back type in
line with the roof ridge of the church.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
The castellated buildings of Caithness, of which there are any
considerable remains existing, range in date from the 14th to the
17th century, and furnish examples of the development of the castle
thoughout that period. Of any structures subsequent to the era of
the brochs, such as might have been the halls of the Scandinavian earls
or the castles of the Scottish maormors, and identifiable as such, there
is not a trace. Nor are the great courtyard castles that express else-
where in Scotland the prosperous reigns of Alexander II. and III.
represented in this county. The small rectangular keeps, which
came into vogue of necessity in the lean years beginning with the
Wars of Independence, here commence the series. Such are the
Castles of Old Wick (No. 495) and Forse (No. 185), occupying
positions of great natural advantage on the necks of promontories
whose precipitous flanks rise sheer from the ocean. A deep trench
has been cut across each promontory, and from the seaward side of
this rises the castle. Each is rudely built, and the thick walls are
pierced by narrow windows few in number. The main doorway
has been in the first floor reached by movable steps or by a ladder,
and, as no stair exists in the thickness of the walls, probably
some equally primitive arrangement in the interior gave access to |
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xxx -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
the upper floor. So similar are these two castles in character and
plan that it may safely be assumed that no long interval separates
the dates of their erection. Both properties belonged in the 14th
century to Rannald Cheyne, who died in 1350, and from him they
passed by marriage into the hands of the Sutherlands. Similar
in type, but less primitive, is the Castle of Braal (No. 95). In
its massive walls are a staircase and apartments, while its window
embrasures, furnished with stone seats, form in themselves small
rooms. The earliest record of Braal Castle is 1373. The many
inconveniences experienced by the occupants of the small rectangular
towers, with their scanty accommodation, led to a development of
their plan by the addition of a wing projecting at right-angles to
the main building, thus forming an L plan, and also by the erection
of outbuildings against the inner wall of the barmkyn, or court.
Though the L plan continued to be used as long as purely defensive
castles were erected, the courtyard, with its surrounding buildings, is
particularly characteristic of the period from 1400 to 1542. Of
castles built between these dates in Caithness, of which there are
now any substantial remains, we have Bucholie and Girnigoe
(Nos. 32 and 497), both with courtyards attached, and Ackergill
Tower (No. 494), retaining the simple rectangular form. Of these
Bucholie is probably the earliest. The keep is small and rude in its
masonry, while the passage leading through it to the courtyard beyond
is characteristic of the 15th century. Girnigoe probably owes its
origin to the first or second Sinclair, Earl of Caithness, and thus
dates from the second half of the 15th century. It has originally
been on an L plan, modified at a later date by the addition of a second
wing. Like Bucholie, access is gained by a passage directly through
the tower. Its complicated system of defence and singular situation
must in early times have rendered it almost impregnable, and now
distinguish it as one of the most remarkable castles in the North of
Scotland. The erection of Castle Sinclair in its outer ward early
in the 17th century must have added greatly to its importance.
The Tower of Ackergill, which probably dates from the end of
the 15th or beginning of the 16th century, though erected on the
rectangular plan, is on such a scale that the inconveniences of the
earlier structures of like form have been obviated. In its original
state it was no doubt surrounded by a moat, now filled in. Of castles
dating from the latter half of the 16th century there are Brims (No.
424), Dounreay (No. 343), Keiss (No. 498), and Barrogill (No. 31).
The two former present no features of particular interest. Keiss
stands on the edge of a cliff in a picturesque situation. In the
treatment of the corbelling round the base of its turret it shows the
modification of structural features to purely decorative detail, which
came into vogue towards the end of the 16th century. The defensive
character of the structure is less pronounced than in the earlier
examples, and the more purely domestic aspect is coming into
prominence. Barrogill, which is on a Z plan, show a still further
departure from the purely defensive type, and though the keep is
still maintained, a large mansion with spacious rooms indicating an
advanced degree of refinement has been added. This type of castle
is peculiar to a period of about fifty years at the end of the 16th
and commencement of the 17th century. One other castle remains |
|
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxxi
to be specially noticed, viz. Dunbeath (No. 187). Though of late
date, and, according to the statement of a former proprietor, dating
from 1633, it undoubtedly occupies the site of an earlier building,
a part of which it may possibly incorporate. Standing on a lofty
promontory, round whose base the ocean surges, it is the most
picturesque mansion in Caithness. With its pointed angle turrets
it shows in a marked degree the French influence, which at the
period of its erection affected the style of Scottish domestic archi-
tecture. Though defensive considerations no longer control the
plan, the details which they engendered continue to exist as purely
decorative features. The castle has been altered to some extent on
the exterior, but to no such degree as to forbid its being regarded as
an admirable example of the Scottish domestic architecture of the
first half of the 17th century.
The town houses of Caithness of date previous to 1707, that are
of any interest, are few. None in Wick fall to be noticed, and in
Thurso there are but two, both dating from the end of the 17th
century. The old town dwelling of the Murrays of Clairden (No.
425, fig. 25), at the end of Bank Street, has been an important edifice
in its time and contains an interesting carved stone mantelpiece. The
other old house, which is in Shore Street (No. 426, pl. XL.), bears
the date 1686, and has a picturesque tower carrying the stair to the
upper flats, which projects right across the pavement of the street.
BROCHS.
Though the number of brochs still remaining in the county reaches
the considerable total of 145, their condition is such that a mere
superficial examination adds but little to our existing knowledge.
The native stone of which they have been built in most districts is
the Caithness shale, which, after long exposure to the elements, has
become disintegrated and resolved into a soil that now maintains a
luxuriant sward effectively concealing the details of the structure
beneath. Thus by far the greater number are only distinguishable
as grass-covered hillocks, or slight elevations in the cultivated land.
In the latter instances, numerous fragments of shaley stone scattered
over the surface occasionally afford an indication of the character of
the remains beneath and lead to their identification.
But, though so little fresh knowledge is to be gleaned from super-
ficial observation, many opportunities for enlightenment as to their
constructive details have been afforded by excavations. Thanks
mainly to the enterprise of the late Sir Francis Tress Barry, twenty-
four of these ruins have been more or less completely cleared out, a
larger number than in any other county, and the most important of
the valuable relics which they have yielded are preserved in the
National Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh.
From very few of the unexcavated examples are measurable
details of their structure procurable. There are, however, certain
features connected with the sites they occupy worthy of notice.
In the plain, which stretches over the greater part of the county,
there were not available commanding situations such as existed, and
were so largely taken advantage of, throughout the neighbouring
county of Sutherland, and means had consequently to be adopted to |
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| caithness-1911/05_034 |
xxxii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
make good the lack of natural advantages in position. In numerous
instances where the site was on level ground this was effected either
by excavating a ditch around it, and erecting a rampart or wall on
the top of the scarp, or by building a formidable wall around the
broch at some distance from its base. Examples of the former
method are to be observed in the brochs of Kilmster (No. 507) and
Camster (No. 522); while the latter finds its exposition in the
"Road Broch" at Keiss (No. 517), the Keiss Broch (No. 515),
and the broch at Upper Borgue (No. 206). Where existent, any
low prominence seems to have been selected, and, if necessary,
added to, so as to form a flat-topped mound of such diameter as
would afford room for the tower and leave a space of some 20' or
thereby between the base of the structure and the edge of the
mound. This arrangement was probably adopted to give greater
stability to the broch on its artficial foundation, but it also furnished
a base court into which stock might be driven, thus resembling the
enclosures occasionally to be found in front of the Sutherland brochs.
The average present height of these mounds is about 8'. Against the
scarp in two instances - the broch at Stemster in Reay parish (No.
344) and that at Sibmister in Olrig parish (No. 321), a revetment
was observed, and it is probable that such a stone facing was general.
The remains of a parapet wall or rampart are usually visible around
the edge of the mound, while an encircling ditch, sometimes of con-
siderable dimensions, completed the defences. Over the ditch passed
a roadway on unexcavated ground, giving access to the enceinte.
Good examples of this latter type are "Cnoc Donn" (No. 103), "Carn
na Mairg" (No. 105), and "An Dun" (No. 203). Along the coast
line situations have been selected adjacent to the cliffs, or, as in the
case of castles of later date, on the landward ends of promontories
fortified by a ditch across the neck. Such are the situations of the
brochs of Crosskirk (No. 347) and Borrowston (No. 348) in Reay
parish, Ness (No. 33) and Skirza Head (No. 35) in Canisbay, and
Nybster (No. 518) and "Cairn of Elsay" (No. 521) in Wick parish.
On considering the principal features of the structures themselves
we find that, besides the twenty-four excavated examples, the interior
diameter is revealed in only other six; but, though, as in Sutherland,
this dimension averages about 30', the variation is much greater,
ranging from 22' in the promontory brochs of Ness and Skirza
Head to about 43' in the broch on the cliff at Borrowston. The
existence of two stairs on opposite sides of the court in four of
the excavated brochs - Acharole (No. 466) in Watten Parish, and
Brounaban (No. 511), Keiss (No. 515), and the "Road Broch"
(No. 517) in Wick parish - is a structural feature not observed any-
where in the neightbouring county. In each of the three last
mentioned there was evidence of a second entrance from the out-
side at the foot of one of the stairs. A similar arrangement was
also found in the Ness broch, but unconnected with a stair. Outer
passages leading up to the broch entrance and furnished with door
checks have been exposed in the brochs of Hillhead (No. 520),
Kilmster, and Nybster, while occasionally the wall on either side of
the entrance has been strengthened by additional building on the outer
face, as at the "Cairn of Elsay." Outbuildings forming a network
of irregularly shaped chambers have in several cases been exposed |
|
| caithness-1911/05_035 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxxiii
around the excavated brochs, while their presence in numerous other
instances is revealed by surface indications. In Sutherland such
outbuildings appear to be exceptional. Around the broch of
Yarrows (No. 509) the existence of food refuse, presumably from
the broch, beneath the level of these structures, demonstrates their
secondary nature. A water supply was provided by wells sunk in
the interior court as at Keiss (No. 515), Ness (No. 33), and "Hill of
Works" (No. 3), or within the defences adjacent to the entrance as
at Hillhead (No. 520); while to carry off surface water from the
interior a drain was constructed, passing beneath the entrance
passage. Such drains were observed in the brochs of Brounaban
(No. 511), Nybster (No. 518), and others. The settings of slabs in
the floor of the interior sometimes formed tanks or fireplaces, but
the object of other arrangements formed by slabs on end or on edge
and believed to be secondary is not equally apparent.
In a number of instances human remains have been found on the
tops of the mounds covering the ruins. The extended burial, and the
orientation of the bodies, usually characteristic of these interments,
indicate their relation to Christian times. The burial found above the
ruins of the broch at Castletown (No. 320), with which were two
oval bowl-shaped brooches of brass (one of which is here shown,
[Picture inserted]
FIG. A. - Bowl-shaped Brooch from Castlehill, Castletown (4 1/2 inches in length).
fig. A.), belonged to the Norse pagan period, which, however, may be
held to have terminated in the 11th century.
Of the relics recovered, many are objects of stone such as might
have been utilised in any age, but such as bear the impress of a
distinctive culture are clearly characteristic of the early iron age
[Picture inserted]
FIG. B. - Bone Weaving Comb from the Broch of Kettleburn.
period in Scotland. The long-handled bone weaving-combs (fig. B.)
found in almost all brochs, and so frequently recovered from Romano-
-- c |
|
| caithness-1911/05_036 |
xxxiv -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
British and late Celtic sites, the bronze tweezers (fig. C.) which came
from the broch of Kettleburn (No. 588), the Roman pottery and glass
[Pictures inserted]
FIG. C. - Bronze Tweezers from the Broch of Kettleburn (4 1/2 inches in length).
Front and side views.
from the Keiss brochs, and the occasional objects of iron, all bear out
this conclusion. Included among the relics are querns both rotary
and of the saddle type (fig. D.), whorls for the spindle, and round
objects of stone probably weights for the loom, stone mortars and
[Photograph inserted]
FIG. D. - Rubbing-stones, Querns, Stone Vessels, Pivot stone, etc., from the
"Road Broch," Keiss.
pounding stones, lamps and drinking cups of stone, two pins of bronze
of similar type (the one from Bowermadden (fig. E.), the other from
Nybster), each having a fixed annular head on a short, right-angled
projection from the stalk, a ring and an armlet of bronze, an iron
spearhead, which came from the broch of Dunbeath (No. 215),
and a few fragments of iron knives which came from the broch of
Yarrows. With regard to the last two items, it must be observed
that neither the position nor depth at which the spearhead was found
is noted, nor is it stated whether the fragments of knives came from
the actual broch or the secondary structures around it. Specially
noteworthy are a number of quartzite pebbles of ovoid shape, painted |
|
| caithness-1911/05_037 |
Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Plate inserted]
PLATE B. - Painted Pebbles from Keiss Brochs.
To face p. xxxv. |
|
| caithness-1911/05_038 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxxv
on their surfaces with spots in a blackish or brownish pigment (pl. B.),
which came from the broch of "Wester" and the "Road Broch"
at Keiss, and bear a close resemblance to others found in the cave
of Mas d'Azil in the Pyrenees, ascribed in that case, to the transition
[Photographs inserted]
FIG. E. - Bronze Pin from the Broch of Bowermadden. Front and side views
(actual size).
period between the palæolithic and neolithic cultures. Fragments
of Roman pottery were found in three of the brochs. One small
piece of 1st-century Samian ware (Dragendorff, type 29), and a small
portion of the rim of a Roman glass vessel, came from the Everley
broch (No. 36). The Nybster broch yielded a fragment of the same
ware, but too much worn for exact identification; while from the
"Keiss broch" there came two fragments of Samian ware bowls of
2nd-century type - one showing a figure of Venus (Déchelette, No. 173)
- and also two pieces of white ware, covered with a black slip and
decorated with a scroll ornament in white, of the same period. The
Roman pottery found in the Keiss broch was not in the lowest level
of occupation disclosed in the interior court. From the "Road
Broch" at Keiss came a small sandstone disc (fig. F.) bearing on both
[Photographs inserted]
FIG F. - Obverse and Reverse of Sandstone Disc from the "Road Broch,"
Keiss (slightly enlarged).
sides incised markings, unintelligible but suggestive of an attempted
inscription. An object of unusual interest was the crown of a human
skull found in the Hillhead broch, and which had been pierced near
the centre with three holes forming roughly an equilateral triangle.
A skull similarly pierced was found associated with late Celtic
relics, by Sir Henry Dryden, in his excavations at Hunsbury,
Northamptonshire. |
|
| caithness-1911/05_039 |
xxxvi -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (sCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
The animal remains which the Caithness brochs have yielded
include those of the reindeer, the true elk, and possibly the brown
bear, also the great auk.
FORTS.
The fortified enclosures of Caithness may be divided into three
main classes according to their situations, viz.:-
Hill forts.
Promontory forts.
Defensive enclosures on low ground and of small dimensions.
In the first class four are included, viz. - "Buaile Oscar" on Ben
Freiceadain (No. 354), and the fort on Cnoc an Ratha near Shurrery
(No. 355), both in Reay parish; an unnoted fort to the S. of the
Loch of Yarrows (No. 512), and the fort of Garrywhin (No. 528).
All these are stone forts, surrounded for the most part by thick
walls built of flat stones, following the outline of the eminences on
which they are situated, and in structure resembling the walls of
the similar forts in Sutherland.
Within the fort of "Buaile Oscar," and occupying a conspicuous
position, are the considerable remains of a chambered round cairn.
The fort on Cnoc an Ratha, in the same district, shows in the interior
the ruins of what appears to be a bee-hive hut, and is remarkable for
the large hut circle placed against the exterior face of the wall to
the right of the entrance, apparently a part of the original plan. The
fort of Garrywhin is particularly noticeable for the details of its
entrance, a feature no longer prominent in the others. The wall,
which along the flanks measures some 6' in thickness, on either side of
the entrance has been increased to about 12', where against its outer
and inner faces there have been set large slabs or portal stones, three
of which remain in situ. Of the fort on the Yarrow Hills very little
remains, and it is now recognisable mainly by the ditch in front of
its entrance. With the hill forts has been associated, from its situa-
tion, a small, strongly fortified enclosure at the end of a rocky ridge
above Loch Watenan, in the parish of Wick (No. 526). The interior
is of such small dimensions that, were it not for the character of the
remains and the absence of ruins, it might be taken for a broch. It
greatly resembles a construction at East Kinnauld in Sutherland, and
noted in the Inventory for that county.* In both cases there is an
inner circular enclosure with a diameter of about 30', and an outer
encircling wall along the edge of the narrow ridge or rock on which
the construction has been placed. It is probably a coincidence, but
perhaps worthy of observation, that in each case a broch has existed
a few hundred yards away.
Of promontory forts there are only three, and the application of
the term to two of these is dubious. The undoubted example exists
on the most easterly portion of the promontory of Holborn Head
near Thurso (No. 438). It has been formed by the construction of
a stone wall across the promontory, in rear of a spot where the
breadth of the neck has been diminished by the erosion of the rock
from either side. The interior of the fort is barren and wind-swept,
and shows no signs of occupation.
*Inventory of the Monuments of Sutherland (No. 479). |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS -- xxxvii
Across the landward end of St John's Point, in Canisbay parish,
has been dug a deep ditch, further protected by a wall on the top of
the scarp (No. 40). The area thus cut off measures some 10 acres
in extent, and is said to contain the site of a chapel.
The third fortified position is the remarkable peninsular rock called
"An Dun" (No. 223), in the parish of Latheron. It is a hog-backed
ridge of small extent rising from precipitous flanks, and lying parallel
with the cliffs on the mainland, to which it is linked by a natural
bridge of rock at a level considerably below that of the ground at
either end. Though the peninsula affords hardly any flat ground,
and is for the most part steeply sloped, there are visible the remains
of a wall along its crest facing the bridge.
Other two fortified enclosures are to be distinguished from those
in the foregoing classes by their situations on low-lying ground and
their different characteristics. Near the roadside at Kilmster, to the
N. of Wick, is an oval enclosure surrounded by a single rampart of
earth and stone, with a ditch outside it (No. 529). The enclosure is
regularly under cultivation and the defences are in part obliterated.
The fragments of flint, worked and otherwise, which have been
collected from its surface suggest that this is a defensive site of an
early period. The other construction, situated on the estate of
Barrock, on land which has been mossy but is now drained, bears
the name of the "Ring of Castle Hill" (No. 4). It is a circular
mound, partially artificial, with a low parapet on the top of the
scarp and surrounded by a ditch, formerly wet, with a broad, flat-
topped rampart outside it. The construction bears a strong resem-
blance to many of the moated mounds on which brochs have been
erected, but there is no surface indication of its ever having carried
such a structure. The regularity maintained in the lines of its
defences suggests a possible mediæval origin.
In addition to the foregoing there are two or three small circular
constructions whose dimensions and more defensible aspect seem to
differentiate them from ordinary hut circles. Such is the enclosure
near Langwell (No. 224), with an interior diameter of 32' and a wall
measuring 11' in thickness. A similar construction has been noted
near Auchinduich in Sutherland.* Of a somewhat similar character,
as being more important than an ordinary hut circle, appears to be
the enclosure near Watenan (No. 527).
HUT CIRCLES.
The hut circles of Caithness are comparatively few in number,
and show only in a trifling degree the diversity of plan and feature
which distinguishes those in the neighbouring county of Sutherland -
the simple pear-shaped or oval form, with a bank, or wall, of even
thickness, being most generally met with. In distribution they are
confined chiefly to the hilly regions on the S. and W., the greatest
numbers being found in the Parish of Latheron, where the physical
aspect of the country differs but little from that of the adjacent part
of Sutherland. Elsewhere, among the Yarrow Hills and near Ulbster
in Wick parish, a few are to be found (No. 530 et seq.); a small group
is situated on Flex Hill in Watten Parish (No. 476), and by the
*Inventory of the Monuments of Sutherland (No. 55). |
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xxxviii -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
bases of Ben Freiceadain and Ben Dorrery in Reay and Halkirk
are several others. Smaller enclosures, built against the bank of a
larger circle and adjacent to the entrance, were met with several
times, and in one instance a double circle was noticed forming a
figure 8, the inner enclosure entering through the back of the other
(No. 125). The hut circle (No. 357, fig. 20) situated at the base of
Ben Freiceadain, illustrates a plan not infrequently observed in
Sutherland.* Its main features are the segmental wall dividing
the interior, and the thickening of the wall on either side of the
entrance so as to form a passage. There is one exceptional con-
struction (No. 356) situated near Brawlbin, which, though without
parallel in Caithness, seems to find its analogue in Sutherland.† It
appears to be a solid building, with a diameter of some 45', having
chambers within it opening off a narrow passage which curves around
the interior.
In a few instances hut circles were observed connected with larger
enclosures (Nos. 244 and 245), as was frequently the case in the
neighbouring county, but here such association was exceptional.
The small mounds of earth and stone, with a diameter of from 12' to
26', presumed to be sepulchral, which occur so frequently in close
proximity to hut circles in Sutherland, were more rarely met with in
Caithness. They were, however, observed in a number of instances,
e.g. on Warehouse Hill (No. 225), by the Berriedale Water
(No. 231), and near Ulbster (No. 354), situated adjacent to hut
circles.
A number of oblong structures with rounded ends are the
remains of shieling bothies connected with the practices of farming
in former days. They are to be found in the upland part of the
county, usually situated on low hillocks in a sheltered hollow by
the side of a burn. The booth consisted of a dwelling apartment
and a place for storing the milk vessels, while there was in addition
a small fold to keep the calves separated from the cows during the
night. The women and girls went up yearly to the shielings with
the cows about midsummer, and there remained, making butter and
cheese for a month or six weeks, while the hill pasture was good.
The practice had fallen into disuse by the end of the 18th century.‡
EARTH-HOUSES.
Only three earth-houses came under observation in the county,
of which two were in the Strath of Langwell (Nos. 246 and 247)
in Latheron Parish, and one was near Ham (No. 65) in Dunnet
parish. The former are both imperfect, but are of the simple gallery
type of which a number of instances occur in the adjacent Strath
of Kildonan in Sutherland. One of them (No. 247) is situated
among the foundations of crofters' houses. The earth-house near Ham is of a
different class. Instead of being beneath the natural surface of the
ground, it occupies the centre of a large artificial mound reached by a
low and narrow entrance passage opening off an oval depression which
*See Inventory of the Monuments of Sutherland, No. 512, fig, 75.
† Ibid., Nos. 429 and 500.
‡ See General View of the Agriculture of Caithness (1812), p. 145. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- xxxix
suggests a hut circle. The passage at its termination gives access to
a distinct chamber, the floor of which, covered with food refuse, bears
abundant evidence of occupation. The marked absence of underground
dwellings throughout the county is possibly due to the shallowness of
the soil.
GALLERIED DWELLINGS.
In the parish of Latheron, which occupies the southern end of
the county, a class of dwelling was met with which has not hitherto
come under observation. In plan the construction is either circular
with an interior diameter usually of from 20' to 25', or oblong with
rounded ends measuring on an average about 45' by 14', while
occasionally there are conjoined chambers or enclosures of both
forms. The walls, now as a rule much ruined, are formed of large
stones laid in courses without mortar. At some 3' or 4' inwards
from the face of the wall around the interior, pillar stones have
been set in the floor 5' to 6' distant from each other, and judging
from the one example which has been excavated (No. 250), from
5' to 6' in height above the floor level. From the top of the
wall there have been laid to the top of the pillars, which have
been of similar height, massive slabs measuring from 6' to 7' in
length, 2' to 3' in breadth, and from 7" to 12" in thickness, while
roofing the interspaces slabs of square-like form have been laid across,
as may be seen in the "Cor Tulloch" at Houstry of Dunbeath
(No. 262, pl. XXII.), where one such slab remains in situ. By these
means a covered gallery, or aisle, has been formed around the interior
leaving a central nave between the opposing pillars. Whether this
was roofed over or left open it is not possible to state definitely
without further excavation; but in the oblong examples, where the
total width in the interior on an average is about 15', and the width
of the central area only some 4' or 5', the completion of a slab roof
over the whole structure is most probable. In the circular buildings,
where the area within the circle of pillars has a diameter of 16' or
17', the employment of such a form of roofing is unlikely. In the
example excavated, the chamber had been partially dug out of the
slope of a hill, and the floor level at the back lay in consequence
as much as 4' to 5' below that of the surface on the exterior. The
masses of ruins from the fallen pillars and roofing slabs which now
encumber the interiors, as well as the considerable accumulation of
soil, disguise this feature, but it seems probable, from the low height
to which the pillars are now usually exposed, that previous to the
erection of the buildings the sites have been dug out.
Though the actual chambers containing the galleries are as a
rule circular or oblong, there is considerable variety in the plans of
the structures of which they have formed a part. On the Wagmore
Rigg (No. 248) two circular enclosures lie conjoined; those near the
base of Morven (No. 249) and near Braemore (No. 252) are combined
circles and oblongs; the example near Langwell (No. 250) is a
curved oblong attached to a hut circle around which there has been
no gallery; while that near Forse (No. 263) consisted of four galleries
varying in length from 48' to 54' or 55', and in breadth from 11'
to 15', all interior measurements, with indications of circular en-
closures connected with them. The large circular structure at Dail |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 7
PARISH OF BOWER.
finished, and rubber smooth, one having a false boring in the middle;
a very small and neatly fashioned comb of bone, with an open semi-
circular handle; a bead of blue vitreous paste, enamelled with a
yellow spiral ornament on three sides; and a very neatly fashioned
bronze pin 3" long, having an annular head, with ribbed ornamenta-
tion on the upper part set on a short rectangular projection from the
stalk. Several large stone vessels, or vats, one of which was 3' deep,
were also found. Most of these objects are preserved in the National
Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh.
See Archaeologia Scotica, v., part i. p. 143; Antiquaries, ix. p. 247
(pin illus.).
O.S.M., CAITH., xii.
PARISH OF CANISBAY.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
23. Canisbay Church. - This church (fig. 2) is situated on the N.
coast, some 2 m. W. of John O' Groat's. Being covered with
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 2. - Canisbay Church, previous to the last alteration (No. 23).
harling, and the architectural details few, the date of its erection is
somewhat difficult to determine. Further, it has undergone altera-
tion at various periods, particularly in the 18th century, as evidenced
by the dates 1720 and 1724 on the skew puts of the nave and S.
transept respectively. It also received very extensive repairs in
1832-33 , as well as in recent years. There are indications, not with-
standing, that the original structure dates from before the Reforma-
tion, and probably from the 15th century. The plan discloses an
affinity to that of many other churches in Scotland of this period
and earlier. It is an oblong structure, measuring some 84' x 24',
with S. and N. transepts (the latter, however, of later date), and a
tower in the centre of the W. front. This tower is the feature
most indicative of pre-Reformation date. It is an absolutely plain
structure, unrelieved by mouldings or string courses, with a few
small windows at the bell chamber in the roof. The roof is of the
saddle-back type, running as usual in line with the roof of the church.
The tower measures 14' 6" square, with walls of 2' 6" in thickness. |
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[Page] 8 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF CANISBAY.
There is no stair, access being obtained to the bell chamber by a door
within the church roof, after the manner of some of the early towers
in Scotland. The entrance doorway was in the S. wall and, as
usual, towards the W. end, as will be seen on plan,* but has been
obliterated, along with other features, in the course of the last altera-
tions effected some twenty years ago. Most of the windows and door
openings in the side walls are square-lintelled, a common feature in
small pre-Reformation churches, reserving openings of a pointed form
for the gables. The church was apparently dedicated to St Drostan.
See Origines, ii., pt. ii. p. 792.
Sepulchral Monuments.
24. In the S. transept there are the remains of a good monument
in the Renaissance style of the late 17th century. It consists of four
fluted Corinthian pillars resting on a base, of which two pillars are
arranged at the ends, leaving a space for the inscription. All this,
with the carving, is much defaced, and the inscription is gone, as also
all of the monument that originally existed above the pillars. The
remaining portion measures 7' 6" in width by 6' 6" in height. It is
difficult to account for the condition of the monument, seeing that it
is within the church and under cover.
25. Set into the S. wall of the S. transept of the church, on the
outside, is a slab commemorating various members of the Groat
family. The slab (pl. III.) is of red sandstone, and measures 6' 4" in
length, 2' 7" in breadth, and 4" in thickness. On its surface is carved
a plain Latin cross set on a stepped base, with a shield bearing a
merchant's mark higher up on the stone. Around the slab runs an
inscription in quaint lettering carved in relief, and in part difficult
to decipher. It commences near the base of the cross on the left,
and may be read as follows:-
DONALD GROT SONE TO JHONE GROT LAID ME
HEIR APRLL XIII DAY 1568 M D.L. LCWYS+ AND
DONOLALD GROT JOHNE GROT AND HIS DONAIELD
LAD AND THAAR FAORBARS OF DONALD WHOUSE
GOD CALD ME YE XIII DAY OF APRLL ANNO DOMINY
M.D.L. 1568.
The lettering on the base of the cross seems to read AMIORALE,
possibly intended for A MEMORIAL. The slab was found under the
floor of the church in 1894, and has probably been recut.
See Scottish Antiquary, viii. pp. 52 (illus.), 162; ibid., p. 35.
A number of interesting old tombstones are exposed in the
surrounding graveyard.
26. Some 50' S. of the E. end of the church is a flat slab bearing
a plain Latin cross on a stepped base. The cross measures in
extreme length 3' 9 1/2", and in breadth 1' 8". Above the cross is a
* The Commissioners are indebted to Mr Hippolyte J. Blanc, R.S.A.,
F.R.I.B.A., for the sketch of this church, made before the last alterations in
1891.
+ ? likewise. |
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| caithness-1911/05_085 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 21
PARISH OF CANISBAY.
that of the chapel. In the interior two slabs protrude, which may
have formed the ends of a long cist. The building is not correctly
oriented, and its designation is doubtful.
O.S.M. CAITH., ii. Visited, 14th September 1910.
57. St Drostan's Chapel, Brabstermire. - The site of this chapel,
which was dedicated to St Drostan, lies on the W. side of the high road
to the NW. of Brabstermire House. It was excavated, and showed a
small building evidently of the chancelled type, but the ruins are now
entirely covered up.
See Eccles. Hist. Caith., p. 49.
O.S.M., CAITH., vii. ("St Eustan's"). Visited, 14th September 1910.
58. Castle Mestag, Island of Stoma. - At the NW. end of Mell
Head, some 12' to 15' out from the edge of the cliffs which fringe the
shore, stands a stack, or detached perpendicular mass of rock.
Occupying nearly the whole summit has been a small keep, now
reduced to a few courses of masonry. Except by means of a bridge
the position is inaccessible (Pls. VIII. and IX.).
There appears to be not extant history of the structure, and its
existence is merely referrred to in the Statistical Account.
See Stat. Acct., viii. p. 164.
O.S.M., CAITH., iiA. Visited, 17th September 1910.
59. Cairn, Island of Stroma. - A slight elevation towards the S. end
of the island bears the name of Cairn Hill, but no cairn remains on it.
O.S.M., CAITH., iiiA. Visited, 17th September, 1910.
60. Ruins, etc., Nethertown, Island of Stroma. - Half a mile down the
E. coast from the N. end of the island, is a little harbour at the Geo of
Nethertown. Beside the house occupied by Mr Smith, immediately
to the S. of this harbour, are remains which are probably prehistoric.
Some 20' to the S. of the house there protrude a few inches through
the turf two slabs set on edge, parallel, and 3' apart, while 2' to the
W. of the most northerly is another in alignment with it. It was
stated that along the coast, towards the N., were many such cist-like
settings of slabs, known as "Picts' beds," but no others, except such as
are here recorded, have been noted. On the N. side of the house, at
the edge of the bank, are exposed the ruins of a structure in which
upright slabs are visible, set parallel 2' 10" apart, with bones and
shells intermingling with the debris.
O.S.M., CAITH, iiiA. Visited, 17th September 1910.
PARISH OF DUNNET.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
61. Dunnet Church. - This church (P1. X.) is situated about 7 m. E.
from Thurso and 3 1/2 m. S. from Dunnet Head, the most northerly point
of Scotland. It bears a considerable resemblance to Canisbay church,
situated some 8 m. further E., and is similar in size, measuring some
84' x 30'. It has, however, no transepts. The harling which covers |
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| caithness-1911/05_086 |
[Page] 22 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF DUNNET.
the whole exterior of church and tower obscures the style of masonry
and evidence of the alterations, which have probably been effected in
the windows and doors, as well as its few architectural details. The
W. doorway in the N. wall has escaped alteration, except that it is
built up. It is round-arched, with a broad splay continued down the
jambs, and from its position and character it undoubtedly dates from
pre-Reformation times. In width it measures 2' 3", but its height
is unascertainable owing to the raising of the churchyard level.
The tower in the centre of the W. front measures 19' 4" from E. to
W. by 20' 4" from N. to S., with walls 3' 6" to 4' in thickness, and
is finished with a saddle-back roof alignment with the church roof.
It has square-headed windows in the gable of the bell chamber,
with a few other small windows partly lighting the staircase, which
projects into the tower at one corner. This staircase is an unaltered
feature, and its construction and the style of its splayed doorways
closely resemble those frequently found in castles and churches of
the 16th and earlier centuries. It is an interesting fact that Timothy
Pont, the well-known early geographer of Scotland, was the minister
of this church during the first decade of the 17th century.
See Origines, ii., pt. ii. p. 789.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited, 18th August 1910.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
62. Broch, Scarfskerry. - On a short promontory rock, about 1/2 m.
to the W. of Scarfskerry Post Office, are the fragmentary remains of a
structure, probably a broch. The building has occupied the whole of
the outer end of the promontory now some 30' in breadth, but the
crumbling away of the rock has considerably curtailed its dimensions.
The whole is overgrown with grass and no part of the structure is
visible. Across the landward end of the promontory a trench has
been dug.
O.S.M., CAITH., ii. Visited, 14th September 1910.
63. Broch, Murza. - About 1/2 m. ESE. of Murza farm, in a field, is
a mound which contains the ruins of a broch. (The ground being
under crop at the date of visit no details were obtainable.)
O.S.M., CAITH., xiii. Visited, 19th September 1910.
64. Broch (supposed), Ha' of Greenland. - About 1/3 m. SE. of
the farm of Ha' of Greenland, situated in the middle of a cultivated
field, is an artificial mound much reduced by ploughing. There is no
definite indication of its character, but it probably covers the remains
of a broch.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Mound"). Visited, 19th September 1910.
EARTH-HOUSE.
[Margin] Ch. [Chambered] Cairn
65. [Scored out] Earth-house, Ham. - On the E. side of a small geo about 1/2 m.
NW. of Ham harbour is an earth-house or chambered mound (fig. 7).
A grassy mound some 62' in diameter and 6' in elevation is situated at
the edge of the cliffs. At several places small excavations have been
made in it disclosing its artificial character. Entering from S. by W. |
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| caithness-1911/05_087 |
Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE X. - Dunnet Church (No. 61).
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XI. - "Earl's Cairn," Hollandmaik (No. 72).
To face p. 22. |
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| caithness-1911/05_088 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 23
PARISH OF DUNNET.
is the passage which has been opened out, leading to a chamber in
the centre. The outer portion of the passage as originally exposed
on excavation extended for a distance of some 14' beyond the present
entrance, passing directly inwards for over 9' or 10', thereafter
making a sharp turn to the left. Where now exposed it is built on
each side and roofed with flags. In height it measures 3' and in
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 7. - Earth-house, Ham (No. 65); Ground-plan.
width 2', and appears to pass along the original ground level.
Curving slightly to the right it extends inwards for a distance of
13', increasing in height to 3' 10". In its course there are neither
door checks nor bar holes. The chamber, into the end of which
the passage opens, is oblong on plan and rounded at the back. It
measures 14' 9" in length, 4' 10" in width at the entrance of the
passage, and 5' 11" at its greatest width in the centre. The walls,
which are dry-built, slightly converge upwards and are roofed with |
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[Page] 24 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF DUNNET.
flags. The greatest height in the centre from what appears to be the
original floor level is 6' 6". In the end of the W. wall, where the
curve of the back commences, about 3' above the present floor level,
is a small recess or ambry measuring 1' in height, 1 3" in breadth,
and 1' 6" in depth. The floor, which is said to be paved, is covered
with a deposit, nearly a foot in depth, of soil and food refuse which
has not been examined. There is a hole some 2' to 3' square in the
centre of the roof where the slabs have apparently fallen in. The
top of the roof in the interior is some 1' 6" to 2' below the summit
of the mound. At the extreme outer end of the entrance passage is
an oval depression, meansuring 27' x 14', which has not been excavated.
This monument may possible be the "Pict's House" noted in
1760 by Bishop Pococke, who gives the following account of it :-
"I found two cells, three yards apart, and the mouth about a yard
wide. The passage to one is destroyed, and, as I apprehended,
two yards of the other. It is three yards into a bend, and then two
yards more. The cell within is two yards wide and five yards long
in a sort of an oval, and at the entrance is a sett in of three-
quarters of a yard, and on the other side it forms the narrow end
of the oval, the sides are straight for a yard high, and set in for
another yard to three-quarters of a yard in width at top, which is
covered with flags. There are two or three small holes as convenient
recesses. The other cell is only a yard and a half high. At the
end is a hole, half a yard above the floor, about two feet six inches
high, three feet long, and three feet broad, lessening by a set-in of
three-quarters of a yard, and this was probably a chimney, as there
seemed to have been an opening to the top. Both the cells and
passages have without doubt been in some degree filled with earth,
for it is with difficulty any one can get in by the passages, which
are about a yard hight."
If the places are identical, only one "cell" is now apparent.
In the Statistical Account relating to the parish of Dunnet there
is a description evidently of the same construction. Its external
appearance is described as a "beautiful green mount about 8 or 9 feet
above the level of the adjacent field." Two entrances to the "cells"
about 8' asunder are said to have led from two outer intercommunica-
ting circular apartments of about 17' or 18' diameter.
See Pococke's Tours, p. 156 ; Stat. Acct., xi. p. 257.
O.S.M., CAITH., i. ("Brough"). Visited, 18th August 1910.
HUT CIRCLES AND ASSOCIATED MOUNDS.
66. Hut Circle, Links of Greenland. - Some 40 yards to the N. of
the mound No. 77 is a larger mound overgrown with bents, with a
hollow depression in the centre. Over all the mound measures in
diameter 55' from N. to S. by 66' from E. to W., and in elevation
about 4'. The depression, which is probably the interior of a hut
circle, measures some 30' in diameter. From it two or three thin
slabs protrude through the surface. A number of shells of limpets,
etc., have been turned up by the rabbits around the site.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Cairn"). Visited, 23rd August 1910. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 25
PARISH OF DUNNET.
67. Hut Circle, Links of Greenland. - Some 200 yards ESE. of the last is another
hut circle, with an interior diameter of 31'. The entrance from the
SE. is visible for a length of 6' 4", faced on either side with flags, and
has a breadth of 2' 6". In the interior several thin slabs protrude
set edgewise against the bank. The present thickness of the bank
is from 13' to 14'.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Cairn"). Visited, 23rd August 1910.
68. Hut Circle, Links of Dunnet. - At the S. end of a ridge of sand
about 3/4 m. SSE. of Dunnet church is a large circular depression,
around the edge of which stones are evident. It has an interior
diamter of about 36'.
69. Mounds, Links of Dunnet. - Some 50 yards to the E. are three small conical
stony mounds, each with a diamter of from 16' to 18' and an
elevation of some 3'. One of them appears to have been dug into,
but no cist is exposed. (O.S., "Cairns.")
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited, 23rd August 1910.
SEPHULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS.
70. "Killi Cairn", St John's Loch, Humspow. - At Hunspow, by
the N. end of St John's Loch, are the remains of a small cairn measur-
ing some 21' in diameter and 2' to 3' in elevation. It appears to have
been excavated, and from the centre rises a single upright slab 2' 2"
in height above ground by 3' 4" in breadth, which may have formed
part of a cist.
O.S.M., CAITH., i. Visited, 18th August 1910.
71. Cairns, Links of Greenland. - On the W. side of the
road from Castletown to Dunnet and about 1 1/4 m. S. of Dunnet
church are two small cairns close to one another. They measure
some 32' in diameter and from 5' to 6' in elevation. Neither appears
to have been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited, 23rd August 1910.
72. Chambered Cairn, "Earl's Cairn," Hollandmaik. - Situated in a
grass park some 200 yards N. of the farm of Hollandmaik, is a circular
chambered cairn (Pl. XI.), which was excavated by Sir Francis Tress
Barry. It measures in diameter from 41' to 43' and in elevation about
6'. At the base are several large boulders, irregularly placed and
evidently disturbed from their original positions, which appear to
indicate that the base was outlined with such stones. The chamber,
which is tripartite, is entered from the ESE. At 15' 6" inwards from
the outer edge of the cairn two upright slabs mark the entrance to
an outer rectangular compartment 2' 2" in length and apparently
some 4' 10" in width, but the destruction of one side has rendered
the latter dimension indefinite. Between portal stones, one of which
only remains, access has been gained to the central compartment, which
is approximately circular, measuring 6' from back to front and 7'
across. The wall, for the most part built of thin slabs laid horizontally
and corbelled out upwards, exists to a height of 3' 4". In the centre
of the back is an opening 2' 9" in width between two upright slabs
placed obliquely, giving access to the third compartment, a built |
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[Page] 26 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF DUNNET.
semicircular recess 3' in depth. Its height has been that of the two
upright slabs which are at present 1' 10" above ground level, but the
lintel which rested on them is broken and the roof of the recess is,
in consequence, in a ruined state.
Within the chamber were found "two urns of dark blue clay,
highly ornamented but in fragments," also "burned wood and ashes." *
O.S.M., CAITH., vii. Visited, 19th September 1910.
73. Chambered Cairn (remains), Rattar. - Some 30' to the SW. of
the mound (No. 75) there project from the turf the heads of three large
slabs all facing N. and S., two in line and one a short distance to the
rear opposite the space between the two slabs in front. These appear
to be the remains of a chambered cairn.
74. Cairn, Easter Head, Dunnet Head. - Situated about 1/4 m.
SE. of Easter Head, Dunnet Head, is a small cairn of low elevation
with a diameter of 16' or thereby. A surveyor's cairn has been
erected on the top of it.
O.S.M., CAITH., i. Visited, 18th August 1910.
MISCELLANEOUS.
75. Mound, Rattar. - About 1/4 m. N. of Rattar House, and a short
distance to the N. of the site of a broch (No. 83), is a grassy mound,
oval on plan. It lies NE. and SW., and measures in length and
breadth 45' x 30', and in elevation 5'. It was partially opened by
Mr John Nicolson, Nybster, who discovered a passage 4' deep by 2'
wide, extending along it from the SW. end, faced with slabs set on
end and covered by flat stones for lintels. There were found in this
passage a stone pounder, two split bones, and a quantity of shells of
edible molluscs.
O.S.M., CAITH., i. ("Tumuli"). Visited, 18th August 1910.
76. Mount, Rattar. - At the edge of the bank above the shelving rocks
about 1/2m. NW. of Rattar House is a low mound which has been
partially carried away. It has a diameter of 30' and an elevation
of 1 1/2' to 2'. Its character is not apparent.
O.S.M. CAITH., i. ("Cairn"). Visited, 18th August 1910.
77. Mound, Links of Greenland. - On the S. side of a small burn
which crosses the links about 1m. S. of Dunnet church, and about 250
yards E. of the road from Castletown, is a conical sandy mound. In
diameter it measures 33' and in elevation about 5'. From the top
two thin slabs protrude 5' 8" apart, inclining towards each other at
an angle of about 15º - 20º;. and some 6' and 9' respectively towards
the W., another pair in similar alignment are just visible about
5' distant from each other. The slabs are thin, and the construction
does not appear to be a chambered cairn.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Cairn"). Visited, 23rd August 1910.
78. Mound, Dunnet. - Some 2/3 m. S. of Dunnet church, on the
E. side of the road, is a high sandy mound with an elevation of
16' or 17', around the top of which much stone is visible but no
* Information supplied by Mr John Nicolson, Nybster. |
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| caithness-1911/05_092 |
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Please read the FAQs re transcribing inventories, the lines should not be run-on but follow the pattern on the page, i.e. put a return at the end of each line. This is with reference to the page before this, done by Pamela Swanson.
Also, Do. means you repeat what was in the previous line.
Look at examples before going further - but there are only two days left to do anything anyway. |
| caithness-1911/05_155 |
INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- [Page] 79
PARISH OF LATHERON.
some fifty years ago. It is also quadrangular, and measures 2 1/2' in
breadth, 1' 5" in thickness, and 9' in length.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxviii. Visited, 15th July 1910.
[Note inserted] ND14NE 1
286. Situated at the N. end of the Hill of Rangag, and about
1/2 m. ENE. of the standing-stone (No. 284), is another (pl. XXVII.).
It stands 5' 6" in height above ground, is roughly quadrangular in
section, measuring 2' 6" x 1' 8", and is pointed upwards. It faces
WNW. and ESE. On the SE. angle, some 17" from the top, a
rounded disc-like protuberance some 4" in diameter has been formed
by the hollowing of the surface above and on one side, and by a
shallow groove across the edge beneath it.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxviii. Visited, 15th July 1910.
287. Standing-Stone, Forse. - In the corner of an enclosed wood,
some 200 yards ENE. of the gamekeeper's house at Forse, is a stand-
ing-stone. It is rectangular in section, measuring 2' x1' 2" and 5' 8"
in height above ground. In direction it faces NNW. and SSE.
O.S.M. CAITH., xxxiii. Visited 20th September 1910.
288. Standing-Stone, Latheron. - About 100 yards to the N. of
the Post Office at Latheron, on the croft of Buldoo, is a massive
standing-stone (pl. XXVIII.) rising 12' 8" above ground, quadrangular
in section, and measuring at base 12' 2" in circumference and at 7'
up 14' 2". It is pointed towards the upper end and appears to be
bedded in the rock which is visible on the surface quite near.
289. Standing-Stone, Latheron. - About 100 yards to the NW. of the last
another large upright block stands to a height of 7' above ground. It
faces NNW. and SSE. and measures across its respective faces 4' 3"
and 4' 10" and is some 2' 10" in thickness. It is not pointed. From
top to bottom it has been badly split.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxix. and xliii. Visited, 26 July 1910.
290. Standing-Stone, Borgue. - Out on the moor at Borgue at its
northerly end, and about 1/2 m. to the W. of the main road to Wick,
is a high standing-stone (pl. XXIX.). It is a slab rising 12' 8" above
ground, pointed to its upper extremity, 5' 6" broad at greatest
breadth, 3' 5" broad at base, and 1' 8" in thickness. It faces W. by
N. and E. by S.
O.S.M., CAITH., xlii. Visited, 23rd July 1910.
291. Standing-Stone, Houstry School. - Situated on the moor some
50 yards SE. of Houstry School is a tall standing-stone. It is a slab
8' in height, 2' 5"in breadth, and 1' 5" in thickness. It is pointed to
the upper extremity and faces E. and W.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxiii. Visited, 18th July 1910.
292. Stone Rows, Hill o' Many Stanes, Mid Clyth. - To the NW.
of Mid Clyth railway station, on a low hill, stands one of the most
remarkable monuments in Caithness. Along the southern slope of
the hill are ranged twenty-two rows of stones running approximately
parallel from N. to S. but slightly diverging towards their southern
extremities. At the N. end the monument measures 118' across and at
the S. end 188'. The longest row is about 153' in length and appears
to have been formed of twenty-two stones placed from 5' 6" to 7' 6"
apart. The stones are, as a rule, thin slabs set with their faces looking |
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[Page] 80 -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF LATHERON.
across the rows. The largest stones are about 3' high, 3' wide, and
15" to 18" thick. There are now standing about 192 stones, while a
number lie pulled out and others are broken over. They have all
been firmly wedged in at the base with smaller stones. Counting from
the E. the rows now contain the following number of erect stones:-
1st row, -- 7 stones.
2nd row, -- 6 stones.
3rd row, -- 12 stones.
4th row, -- 8 stones.
5th row, -- 6 stones.
6th row, -- 4 stones.
7th row, -- 6 stones.
8th row, -- 7 stones.
9th row, -- 7 stones.
10th row, -- 9 stones.
11th row, -- 9 stones.
12th row, -- 11 stones.
13th row, -- 12 stones.
14 th row, -- 10 stones.
15th row, -- 15 stones.
16th row, -- 10 stones.
17th row, -- 10 stones.
18th row, -- 7 stones.
19th row, -- 8 stones.
20th row, -- 14 stones.
21st row, -- 5 stones.
22nd row, -- 9 stones.
To the E. of the eastmost row one or two stones protruding suggest that
the monument may originally have extended further in that direction.
A plan of this monument made by Sir Henry Dryden in 1871 is
preserved in the library of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland.
On it the number of stones indicated, erect and fallen, is about 250.
See Cordiner's Antiquities, p. 84; Anderson, The Bronze and Stone
Ages, p. 131 (plan).
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxiv. Visited, 16th July 1910.
293. Standing-Stones (setting of), Achkinloch. - At the SW. corner of
Loch Stemster, about 1/2 m. SW. of Achkinloch, is a remarkable setting
of standing-stones (pl. XXX.). In form the monument is an irregular
oval, broader at one end than the other, and like a horseshoe, having
the setting discontinued across one end and that the narrow one. The
main axis is N. and S. with the open end towards the latter direction.
The total length is 226', the width in the middle from side to side,
interior measurement, 110', and at the open extremity 85'. The stones
are placed with their broad faces at right angles to the direction of the
setting, and are on an average from 4' to 5' in height, the highest
stone - that at the SW. termination - measuring 6' 4" in height. In
breadth they vary from 3' to 5', and in thickness from 8" to 20".
They have been placed at distances of 8' or 9' from each other. There
are a number of gaps, and presuming that the intervals were regular
and that the stones from these gaps have been removed, the number
of stones originally forming the monument would be fifty-four. There
now remain in situ thirty-four, of which two are mere stumps, and there
lie prostrate other three. Abutting against a high stone at the NE.
of the monument, and on the outside, is a cist-like construction formed
of four slabs set in the ground and measuring 5' x 3' 9" interiorly.
There is no evidence of an interment having been found in it.
This monument was surveyed by Sir Henry Dryden in 1871,
and his plan was reproduced by Dr Joseph Anderson in his work
referred to below.
See Anderson, The Bronze and Stone Ages, p. 132 (plan).
O.S.M., CAITH., xxviii. Visited, 30th July, 1910. |
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| caithness-1911/05_157 |
Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXX. - Standing-Stones (Setting of), Achkinloch (No. 293)
To face p. 80. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- [Page] 81
PARISH OF LATHERON.
294. Standing-Stones, Forse. - Between a rocky scarp and swampy
ground at the upper or N. end of
the Mill Dam, to the NW. of Forse
House, are three standing-stones
and the base of a fourth. They
are rectangular slabs placed at
irregular intervals of 18' 9", 25',
and 53' from each other, and
seemingly disturbed from their
original positions. It is doubtful
if they have formed part of a
stone circle. The unbroken stones
measure from 3' 6" to 4' 9" in
height, from 2' 7 to 3' in width,
and they have an average thick-
ness of 13".
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxviii. ("Stone
Circle").
Visited, 29th July 1910.
[Drawing inserted].
FIG. 15 - Cross Slab, Mid Clyth Grave-
yard (No. 295).
295. Cross Slab, Mid Clyth. -
Near the centre of Mid Clyth
graveyard stands a tall grey slab
(fig 15) measuring 6' 6" in height,
1' 9" in breadth, and 6" in thick-
ness. It faces SW. and NE.
On the SW. face near the centre
is incised a Celtic cross 1' 3"
in length and 1' 4" in breadth
along the arms. The upper arm
terminates in two diverging spirals and
the lateral arms in circular discs 3" in
diameter. The stem of the cross is about
3/4" broad.
See Antiquaries, x. p. 630 (illus.) ; Early
Christ. Mon. pt. iii. p. 36.
[Drawing inserted].
Fig. 16 - Cross Slab, Roadside
Farm, MId Clyth (No. 296).
296. Cross Slab, Roadside Farm, Mid
Clyth. - At the farm of Roadside, Mid
Clyth, occupied by Mr George Sinclair, is
a cross-bearing slab (fig 16). It was found
many years ago built into a stone dyke,
and has been used as a cover on the top
of the wall around the well containing
the machinery of the horse mill at the
back of the house. On its upper face
is rudely carved, or picked out, a small
cross. The slab measures 3' 5" in length
by 1' 11" in breadth, and 5" in thick-
ness. The cross is 1' 5" in extreme length
and 1' 2" in breadth across the centre.
The arms are 6" long and terminate in round discs 2 1/2" in
-- 6 |
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[Page] 82 -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF LATHERON.
diameter; and the lateral arms are slightly inclined upwards. The
stem is 9" long.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxiv. Visited, 16th July 1910.
297. Sculptured Stone, Lybster. - Lying on the grassy slope between
the two ranges of cottages that run N. and S. to the NE. of the
harbour of Lybster, and some 40 yards S. of the northmost cottages, is
a block of yellow sandstone (fig. 17). In form it is roughly triangular,
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 17. - Sculptured Stone, Lybster (No. 297).
measuring some 2' 2" x 3'. A large basin-shaped depression, which
appears to be natural, runs in from the left edge, and another large
hole has been worn by weather near the lower end of the stone. Cut
across the right-hand corner is an equal-limbed Celtic cross measuring
1' 8" in width. The arms expand outwards from 5 1/2" to 7" and their
extreme length is 8 3/4". Set within this cross is another with arms
6 3/4" in length and 1 3/4" in width.
This stone is referred to in the description of the parish of
Latheron (circa 1726), published in Macfarlane's Geographical Col-
lections, as follows: "On the face of a brae above the inlett of this burn
(Risgil) there is a stone to which, as the natives tell, many frequented
in the time of superstition. It's hollow where they sate and on the
back there is the figure of a cross tripled cutt out. ther are some
hollow places on both sides as if designed for both the elbows."
See Macfarlane's Geog. Coll., i p. 166.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxiv. (unnoted). Visited, 19th July 1910.
298. Cross Slab (portion of), Latheron. - Built into the W. wall
of the old barn by the roadside, about 1/4 m. S. of Latheron Post Office,
is a stone incised with a portion of a Celtic cross. Its position is 13'
from the N. end of the wall and 3' 9" above the ground. The stone
is 2' 3" in length by 1' 1" in breadth. The upper arm of the cross
and the greater parts of the side arms are gone. The stem remains
for a length of 1' 7", and increases in width from 6" at the intersection
to 8 1/2" at its present termination. The angles at the points of inter-
section are filled with circular discs 2" in diameter.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxix. and xliii. (unnoted). Visited, 26th July 1910.
299. Sculptured Stone with Ogham inscription. - Built into the
wall, in the interior of the old barn mentioned in the previous
paragraph, was found a few years ago a sculptured stone bearing |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- [Page] 83
PARISH OF LATHERON.
an Ogham inscription. It is a rectangular slab of Caithness sand-
stone, and mesures 3' in extreme height, 1' 5" in breadth, and
about 4" in thickness. The top and bottom are broken away, the
fracture at the top passing obliquely across the stone. The in-
scription runs the whole length of the stone on the left-hand side,
but is probably incomplete owing to the fracture. What remains
shows eighteen complete characters and possibly part of a nineteenth.
The sculpturing, which is partly in relief and partly incised, and
occupies the whole face of the stone, consists of the double rectangular
figure in relief, the upper and wider rectangle filled with double spiral
ornament arranged in C-shaped scrolls placed back to back, the lower
and narrower filled with an interlaced pattern; and below, incised
(1) a bird, (2) a fish, and (3) two horsemen (partly broken away).
The stone was discovered in 1903 by Mr. John Nicolson, Nybster,
who brought it to Sir Fancis Tress Barry, and the latter presented it
to the National Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh, where it now is.
It is fully described and illustrated in an article by Dr Joseph
Anderson in the Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries quoted below.
See Antiquaries, xxxviii. p. 534 (illus.).
300. Constructions (remains), Burn of Houstry. - About 1 1/2 m. to
the NW. of Mullbuie, near the side of a burn, are the ruins of
sheiling bothies on the top of round green hillocks. The largest of
these hillocks, measuring some 50' X 62' in diameter, lying with its
longest axis E. and W., appears to have been the site of some earlier
construction. It has an elevation of some 5'. All over the surface
protrude large stones, many of them set upon end. The remains are
quite indefinite, but resemble the ruins (No. 280) covering the hillock
in the Moss of Whilk.
A short distance to the E. is an area measuring about 140' by 100',
surrounded by a single line of large blocks of stone not forming a
wall nor in their present position acting as a fence to keep animals
outside or inside the enclosure.
Further N. and some 2 1/2 m. NNW. of Mullbuie, at the S. end of
Loch a Cheracher flow, and to the E. of the source of the Allt Badain
Ghuirm, is visible the base of a turf bank along the edge of the flow,
forming a segment of a circle, with a chord of some 200 yards. The
surface on both sides, but especially on the concave face, is boggy.
The base of the bank is now some 12' wide and its elevation trifling.
Its purpose has probably been to prevent cattle wandering into the
flow.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxii. (unnoted). Visited, 18th July 1910.
301. Construction (remains of), Langwell. - On the S. side of the
road up the Langwell Water from Langwell to Wag, and some 200
yards W. of the wall which divides the woodlands from the moor
beyond the garden, are the very confused remains of a construction.
Much stone has been removed from it, and its original character is
not apparent. It is known as "Langwell Tulloch."
O.S.M., CAITH., xlii. ("Pict's House"). Visited, 21st July 1910.
302. Sheilings (ruins of), Easan Burn. - On the top of the S. bank
of the Easan Burn, above the road bridge, and about 1/2 m. N. of Camster |
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PARISH OF LATHERON.
Lodge, are the very indefinite remains of a number of constructions
situated on a green knoll. They appear to have been small oblong
buildings with two or three chambers. One more definite than the
rest measures interiorly some 16" x 7".
On a green hillock on the right bank of the same burn, about
1/4 m. SSE. of the road bridge, are the ruins of a similar structure.
The corners have been rounded; the walls are about 2' thick and
now low, and there have been two apartments. These appear to be
the ruins of sheilings.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxix. ("Tumulus"). Visited, 14th July 1910.
303. Sheilings (ruins of), Easan Burn, Dunbeath, Strath. - About 1 1/2 m. N. by E. of
Achnaclyth towards Cnocan Con na Craige is a spot marked "Picts'
Houses" on the O.S. map. Here, near the source of a small burn,
are some half-dozen green mounds, on the top of which the founda-
tions of small oblong houses, evidently sheiling bothies, are visible;
while westwards a mile or so by the banks of the Raffin Burn are
the remains of another settlement.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxii. Visited, 29th July 1910.
304. Constructions, Ballentink. - At Ballentink, about 200 yards
SSW. of the road bridge of Rhemullen across the Burn of Houstry,
on a grassy hillock, the foundations are visible, beneath the turf, of
several circular enclosures built with large stones. Towards the SE.
an entrance passage has been partially exposed, with a width of 2' 7",
passing beneath a large lintel and suggesting the entrance to a broch.
The dimensions and outline, however, of such a structure are not
evident. It is possible that the circular enclosures are secondary
constructions superimposed on the ruin.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxix. and xliii. ("Mound"). Visited, 28th July 1910.
SITES.
305. Clyth Castle (Gunn's Castle), Buail' na Creige. - On the summit
of a peninsular rock running parallel to the cliff face on the mainland,
and only approachable from the shore at the W. end, up a steep
glacis of rock, are the foundations of a small rectangular keep.
Formidable as the position has been rendered by nature, it has been
further strengthened by the building of a wall across the upper side of
a shelf of rock by which access might have been gained to the summit
from the SW. The keep has measured over all some 37' x 23', and
has had walls some 3' in thickness. Immediately outside the build-
ing, at the NE. angle, is a circular depression some 9' in diameter and
2' to 3' in depth, which probably indicates the position of the well.
This keep was one of the strongholds of the Clan Gunn.
See The Gunns, p. 190.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxiv. Visited, 16th July 1910.
306. Halberry Castle. - On the top of Halberry Head, at Mid
Clyth, are the foundations of Halberry Castle. The promontory is
formed by a deep inlet or geo separating it from the land on the
westward side, while the open sea dashes against the base of the cliffs |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- [Page] 85
PARISH OF LATHERON.
on the E. The neck which links the promontory to the land is
traversed by a trench cut through the rock some 25' in width. In
rear of this has stood the keep, the foundations of which alone are
visible. It has been a rectangular structure, measuring over all some
44' x 28' . The castle is said to have belonged to the Crowner Gunn
in the 15th century.
See The Gunns, p. 190.
O.S.M. CAITH., xxxiv. Visited, 16th July 1910.
307. Knockinnon Castle. - On the top of a prominent rock (Cnoc
Heara), which rises on the W. side of the high road about 1 1/2 m. N. of
Dunbeath, are the mere foundations of this castle. In plan it con-
sisted of a small rectangular keep in the centre, with numerous out-
buildings. There appears to be no historical reference to it, and it is
doubted if the castle was ever completed. In the "Geographical
Description of the Parish of Lathron" (circa, 1726), given in
Macfarlane's Geographical Collections, there is a statement in the
following terms which evidently refers to it: " About 3 furlongs to
the S. of the house of Lathronwheel, upon a rising ground, there
stands the beginning of a great fabrick; it is certain that it came
never a much greater length than what is now seen of it. I could
get no certain account who he was that began this great design."
See Cast. and Dom. Arch., iv. p. 298 (plan) ; Macfarlane's Geog.
Coll. i. p. 163.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxix. and xliii. Visited, 28th July 1910.
308. Berriedale Castle. - On a tongue of rock projecting across the
mouth of the Berriedale River are the remains of Berriedale Castle.
The promontory on which the castle stood has been cut off from the
high ground in rear of it by a deep ditch across the neck. There has
been a double row of buildings along the promontory separated by
a narrow courtyard, the whole enclosed within a wall of enceinte
still partly traceable. The remains are very scanty.
Berriedale belonged in the 14th century to Rannald or Reginald
Cheyne, thereafter passing, through marriage, to the Sutherlands, and
subsequently to the Oliphants by the marriage of William Oliphant
with Christina Sutherland. In 1526 Andrew Oliphant sold the
property, along with his other possessions in Caithness, as he was
unable to enjoy them in peace, to his uncle Laurence, Lord Oliphant,
and in 1606 his successor sold Berriedale, etc., to the Earl Of Caithness.
See Cast. and Dom Arch., iv. p. 297 (plan) ; Macfarlane's Geog.
Coll., i. p. 165; Origines, ii. pt. ii. p. 764 ; Reg. Mag. Sig. 18th June
1606.
O.S.M., CAITH., xlii. Visited, 23rd July 1910.
309. Chapel and Graveyard, Ballachly, Stemster. - Situated in the
midst of cultivated fields, some 300 yards WNW. of Ballachly, is
a graveyard enclosed and apparently still used. The rank growth of
grass and weeds quite obscures any old tombstones there may be .
This is said to be the site of a chapel.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxviii. Visited, 15th July 1910.
310. Chapel and Graveyard, Brae na h-Eaglais, Langwell Water. -
At the junction of the Long Burn with the Langwell Water, on the top |
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PARISH OF LATHERON.
of the bank above the road to the W. of the former stream, is the site
of a chapel and graveyard. Slight surface indications alone remain.
O.S.M., CAITH., xlii. Visited, 20th July 1910.
311. Chapel, Braemore. - Immediately to the W. of Braemore
Lodge is an old graveyard still in use, and within it is the site of a
chapel. The ruins are said to have been pulled down about the middle
of last century.
Wells are indicated on the O.S. map to the N. and S. of the site.
See Macfarlane's Geog. Coll., i. p. 166; Eccles. Hist. Caith., p. 65.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxviii. Visited, 22nd July 1910.
312. Chapel, Ballachly, Dunbeath. - At Ballachly, about 1/2 m. to the
N.W. of Dunbeath, is the site of a chapel. From the haugh land near
the river there rises a ridge some 80 to 100 yards in length, and at
right angles to it there runs towards the river a wall 5' thick and still
some 8' to 10' high. Along the level to the base of the ridge at the
W. are the ruins of a similar massive wall. Bishop Forbes records
that he was told on his visit to Caithness in 1762 that here "had
been a small monastery called of old the Chapel or Church of Peace."
See Forbes' Journals, p. 191; Macfarlane's Geog. Coll., i. p. 164.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxix. and xliii. Visited, 28th July 1910.
313. "Carn Fhionn," Braemore. - This structure, which is said to
have been a broch, has been completely removed.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxviii. ("Pict's House"). Visited, 22nd July 1910.
The O.S. maps indicate sites as under:-
314. Pict's House, Carn Liath, about 3/4 m. E. of Corriechoich
O.S.M., CAITH., xxxvii.
315. Pict's House, 1/2 m. NW. of Langwell
House. O.S.M., CAITH., xlii.
316. Cairn, Ramscraigs. O.S.M., CAITH., xlii.
PARISH OF OLRIG.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
317. Church of St Trothan's. - About 1/2 m. N. of Olrig House are
the ruins of the parish church of Olrig known as St Trothan's. The
structure is roofless and the gables and walls, entirely overgrown
with ivy, are levelled to a height of about 10' all round. The church
has measured 49' x 26' over all. It presents no features of interest,
and is said to have been erected in 1633.
Font. - Standing on the left side of the gate giving access to the
churchyard is an old font. It is a cylindrical block of sandstone, 1' 8"
in height and 1' 5 1/2" in diameter, hollowed out at both ends. The
basin is in shape an inverted cone 10" in depth and 5" in diameter
at the top. A plain roll-moulding encircles the block at the base,
and rising from this to within 6"' of the top of the font are five equi-
distant vertical roll-mouldings.
See Origines, ii., pt. ii. p. 787; Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 109.
O.S.M. CAITH., vi. Visited, 31st August 1910. |
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PARISH OF OLRIG.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
318. Broch, Thurdistoft. - In the middle of a cultivated field about
1/4 m. S. by W. of the farm of Thurdistoft, to the E. of Castletown, are
the remains of a broch. The outer face of the wall is exposed almost
all round to a height of from 2' to 3', but the exact position of the
entrance is obscured by vegetation. The diameter over all is 66'
and the greatest elevation about 6'. There is no indication that the
interior has been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH,. vi., ('Mound"). Visited, 18th August 1910.
319 Broch, Murkle. - About 1/2 m. SSE. of West Murkle farm
buildings is a grassy hillock on the top of which are the remains of
a broch. The lower slope, which is steeply scarped, has an elevation
of about 8', and between its upper edge and the higher portion of the
hillock containing the broch is a level area measuring some 28' to 30'
in width. The upper mound has a diameter of about 60' and an eleva-
tion of about 8'. No part of the structure is visible. The hillock has
to some extent been ploughed down and broken into on the E. side.
The O.S. map indicates that human remains and querns were
found here.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Cairn'). Visited, 23rd August 1910.
320. Broch, Castlehill, Castletown. - At the edge of a field just
above the shore road, a short distance to the W. of Castlehill quarries,
Castletown, is a grassy mound which contains the ruins of a broch.
It has been pillaged to some extent from the S. side. The remaining
portion has a diameter of about 54' and an elevation of 7'.
On the top of this mound there was discovered in 1786 an un-
burnt burial beneath a flat stone and quite near the surface. With
the skeleton were two oval bowl-shaped brooches of brass, gilded
and surrounded by thin plaited silver cord. The convex surface is
ornamented with four figures with horses' heads in high relief and
with chased work characteristic of the Norse Viking period. With the
brooches were also a bracelet of coarse jet, and a bone pin 4" in length.
With the exception of one of the brooches, which is in the
Museum of Old Northern Antiquities at Copenhagen, the relics are
preserved in the National Museum of Antiquities, Edinburgh.
See Anderson, The Iron Age, p. 43.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited 23rd August 1910.
321. Broch, Sibmister. - Immediately to the N. of Sibmister farm
is a high grassy hillock on the top of which there are evidently the
remains of a broch. The scarp of the hillock, which is steep, rises to
a height of about 18' on the W. and somewhat less on the other side,
and towards the top of it the face of a revetment is exposed. The
broch, which has an elevation of about 6', has been situated some
20' to 30' back from the top of the scarp. The outline of the ruin
is very indefinite, but the diameter appears to be about 56'. The top
of the hillock over all measures some 110' in diameter.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Cairn of Sibmister").
Visited, 31st August 1910.
322. Broch (supposed), Olrig Glebe. - About 180 yards S.W. of the
Manse of Olrig, in the cultivated land of the glebe, is a stony mound |
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PARISH OF OLRIG.
which probably contains a broch. The mound is under cultivation
and no sign of structure is visible. The diameter over all is some
96' and the elevation about 6'.
323. Broch (supposed), Olrig House. - In the park to the E. of
Olrig House, and close beside the pond, is a large grassy mound. It
has been much spread through being at one time under cultivation,
and now has a diameter of about 120' with an elevation of about 7'.
It is probably a broch, but no part of the structure is visible.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited, 31st August 1910.
SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS.
324. Chambered Cairn (long), Cooper's Hill. - On the top of a ridge
known as Cooper's Hill, and about 1/2 m. SE. of the cottages at Loch-
side, are the remains of a long cairn lying with its major axis NW.
and SE. The prominent end of the cairn has been towards the SE.
The extreme length along the mesial line is 220', but the construction
has been dilapidated and spread owing to the cultivation of the land
to such an extent that other dimensions are now indefinite.
O.S.M., CAITH., xii. (unnoted). Visited, 19th September 1910.
325. Cairn, "Trothanmas Hillock," Netherside. - Some 200 yards
S. by W. of Hayfield farm, beside the steading of Netherside, is a
grassy hillock. It measures some 70' in diameter and 5' in elevation.
About fifty years ago a stone cist was accidentally discovered in it
and was immediately covered up again without any detailed observa-
tions being made.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited, 31st August 1910.
326. Cairn, "Ring Hillock," Hill of Whitefield. - At the edge of
a grass park on the W. side of the road, some 300 yards N. of Birkle
Hill Quarry, and on the estate of Olrig, is a small cairn. It measures
some 38' in diameter and some 5' 6" in elevation, and does not appear
to have been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., xii. ("Mound"). Visited, 31st August 1910.
MISCELLANEOUS.
327. Mound, "Methow Hillock." - About 1/2 m. NE. of West Murkle
farm, and about 100 yards back from the edge of the cliffs, is a large
grassy mound known as the "Methow Hillock." It has an elevation
of 10' or 11' and a diameter of 120', but it has been under cultivation
and ploughed down to some extent. Beyond being artificial its
character is indefinite.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited, 20th August 1910.
328. Mound, East Murkle. - Some 200 yards NW. of East Murkle
farm, in the middle of a field, is a low stony mound overgrown with
grass. It has long been under cultivation and its dimensions and
character are quite indefinite.
It is stated on the O.S. map that at this spot were found a stone
cist, querns, and human remains.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Cairn"). Visited, 23rd August 1910. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- [Page] 89
PARISH OF OLRIG.
329. Mound, "Clindrag Tulloch," Hill of Clindrag. - On the top
of the Hill of Clindrag towards its E. end is a small grass-covered
mound across the top of which runs a stone wall. It has a diameter
of some 40' and an elevation of 4'. Possibly it is a cairn, but there
is no surface indication of its character.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. Visited, 31st August 1910.
330. Mounds. - On the hill of Olrig is a natural mound known as
the "Gallow Hill"; and near Hilliclay another natural hillock, bearing
the name of "Sysa," is associated with the fairy lore of the district.
O.S.M., CAITH., xii. Visited, 31st August, 1910.
SITES.
The O.S. maps indicate sites as under:-
331. St Coomb's Kirk, Links of Old Tain. -- O.S.M., CAITH., vi.
332. Chapel, Durran. -- O.S.M., CAITH., xii.
333. Nunnery, S. of Murkle Bay. -- O.S.M., CAITH., vi.
334. "Cairn of Hattell," 1/2 m. NW. of Castlehill . -- O.S.M., CAITH., vi.
335. Sculptured Stone, Castlehill. -- O.S.M., CAITH., vi.
336. Standing-Stone, 1/4 m. N. of Mains of Murkle. -- O.S.M., CAITH., vi.
337. Kitchen Midden, Shelley Hill, Castletown. -- O.S.M., CAITH., vi.
PARISH OF REAY.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
338. St Mary's Chapel, Lybster. - Situated on the W. side of Cross-
kirk Bay, at a short distance back from the edge of the rocks, is the
ruined chapel of St Mary's. It consists of a nave and chancel both
roofless, and the latter a reconstruction on the old foundations used
as a burial-place, separated from the nave by a solid wall pierced in
the centre by a doorway. The nave measures 17' 10" from E. to W.
by 10' 11" from N. to S. interiorly. The walls, which are built of the
whinstone of the district in irregular courses from 3" to 10" deep, are
about 4' in thickness in the nave and 2' 6" in the chancel. In the
nave the N. wall, which is still about its original height, is 8' in
elevation above the ground level. The S. wall is partly broken but
has still a height of from 6' to 7'. The W. wall stands to a height
of 11' 8" and the E. to about 15'. In the W. end is an entrance, now
closed up, 2' 3" wide at bottom, 1' 9" wide at the top, and 3' 11" high.
There is no trace of a window. The entrance to the chancel is 2' 9"
wide at the bottom, 2' 1" at the top, and about the same height as the
doorway. The chancel measures 11' 3" from E. to W. by 10' 9"
from N. to S. The W. wall of the nave, on the exterior, is in rather
a ruinous state and the upper part considerably broken down.
This chapel is much the oldest ecclesiastical structure remaining
in Caithness, and may possibly date from the 12th century. Plans
and elevations of it, prepared by Sir Henry Dryden in 1871, are
preserved in the Library of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland in
Edinburgh, and are here represented (fig. 18.) In the "Description
of the Parish of Reay" contained in Macfarlane's Geographical Collec- |
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PARISH OF REAY.
[Plans inserted]
FIG. 18. - St Mary's Chapel, Lybster (No. 338); Plan and Sections.
tions and dated June 1726, this chapel is said to have been dedicated
to St Peter.
There is said to be in its vicinity a spring known as St Mary's well.
See Eccles. Arch., i. p. 162; Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 107; Anderson,
Scot. in Early Christ. Times, p. 62; Macfarlane's Geog. Coll., i. p. 185;
Orkneyinga Saga (Anderson), pp. xcvii.-xcviii.; Eccles. Hist. Caith.,
p.39.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 25th August 1910.
339. Reay Church. - In the NE. corner of the churchyard [Inserted note] i.e. the old churchyard , in the village, not the one W. of the
church, which is new - of Reay
are the reconstructed remains of part of the old church, measuring
interiorly 16' 2" x 11' 8". Towards the S. end is a tablet bearing two
conjoined shields. Dexter, On a chevron between three bears' heads
couped, a buck's head erased between two hands holding daggers, all
proper; Sinister, Quarterly, 1st and 4th, the Sinclair galley; 2nd and
3rd a lion rampant; dividing the quarters a cross engrailed. Beneath,
the remains of an inscription to the effect that the aisle or a part of
it belongs to Angus Mackay of Bighouse. On the end wall to |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Drawing inserted]
PLATE XXXI. - Sculptured Stone,
Reay (No. 340).
[Drawing inserted]
PLATE XXXII. - Sepulchral Monu-
ment, Reay (No. 341), from a
rubbing.
To face p. 91. |
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PARISH OF REAY.
the right of the entrance is another panel bearing at the top the
initials DMM and MM; in the centre, a shield charged with an
eagle's head erased, dividing the date 1691 and the motto TIME DEUM.
On the lower part is an inscription narrating that the fourth part of
this "ile" belongs to Mr David Munro and Margaret Munro.
340. Sculptured Stone, Reay. - Set into the W. wall of the remains
of the old church, towards its N. end, is a rectangular slab of grey
sandstone (pl. XXXI.) 6' 4" in length, 2' 3 1/2" in width at the top, 1' 11" in
width at the bottom, and 3 1/2" thick. It is sculptured in relief on one
face thus:- In the centre of the slab a cross with square ends to
the arms, round hollows in the angles, and a ring connecting them
together: a short shaft and a rectangular base the whole width of
the stone. The ornament on the cross is arranged in five different
divisions, the central boss being a separate panel surrounded by a
border, and the other divisions being marked by a change in the
pattern. The ornament on the left and right arms and on the base
is a key pattern, on the shaft circular knot work; on the top arm
the pattern is defaced by a modern inscription - ROBERT McKAY 17 .
The stone, till recently , stood in the old burial-ground over an
eighteenth-century grave.
See Early Christ. Mon., pt. iii. p. 36 (illus.).
Sepulchral Monuments.
Lying in the churchyard of Reay are a number of old tombstones
bearing heraldic and other devices of interest.
341. At the W. end of the graveyard is a slab (pl. XXXII.)
measuring superficially 3' 10" x 1' 11". At the head of the stone
are two heraldic shields beneath the initials IMI and EI respectively,
carved in relief. The shields bear arms. Dexter, three stars with
a crescent at fess point for Innes; Sinister, a saltire and chief - the
latter charged with three cushions for Johnstone.
Beneath the shields runs the following Latin inscription in
incised lettering, viz:-
VOX DIXIT PRAEDICA
DIXIT QUE QUID
PRAE DICATURUS
SUM OMNEM CARN
EM ESSE GRAMEN
PULVIS ET UMBRA
SUMUS PULVIS NI
HIL EST NISI FUMUS
SED NIHIL EST FUM-
US NOS NIHIL ERGO
SUMUS QUEM NON
FALCE METIT FERA
MORS QUIS MO....
SEPULCHRI OBRUT
US INFERNO VICT . .
. . AB ORBE REDIT. |
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PARISH OF REAY.
342. To the E. of this stone lies another slab, measuring 5' 5" in
length by 2' 5" in breadth at the upper end, and tapering slightly to
the foot. In the centre an oval compartment contains the monogram
of Magnus Gun, while around the edge of the stone and across the
top runs the following inscription:-
HEIR LYES THE CORPS OF MAGNUS GUN ANE HONEST
MAN HUSBAND TO HELLEN TAYLOR WHO DEPARTED
THE . . . . . OF MA . . . , 1705.
On the lower part of the stone are a skull and cross-bones, spade
and shovel, and other emblems of mortality.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th September 1910.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURE.
343. Dounreay Castle. - At the W. end of the farm buildings at
Lower Dounreay are the remains of Dounreay Castle. It is a
structure on an L plan, the main block measuring 39' 6" x 23' 8",
and the wing 14' 4" x 18' 6", with walls some 3' 6" in thickness. It
consisted of two storeys and a basement. The entrance door occupies
the usual position in the re-entering angle on the ground floor. On
the left of the doorway a square staircase under a vaulted roof leads to
a landing on the first floor, whence a newel stair in the thickness of
the wall leads upwards. The floors have all fallen. On the first
floor has been a hall and private room. There have been small cup-
boards and garde-robes in the walls, and the window recesses have
been fitted with seats. The mouldings around the fire-places consist
of a bead and hollow. The erection of this castle probably dates
from the latter half of the 16th century.
The lands of Dounreay were acquired by William Sinclair of
Dunbeath from Adam, Bishop of Orkney, in 1562 and 1564. Sir
Robert Gordon avers that the acquisition was by the Earl Of Caith-
ness, and that Sinclair, in whose custody between 1563 and 1565
the Earl had deposited his writs on his going to Flanders, suppressed
them and obtained a fresh grant in his own favour. Subsequently
Sinclair was much harassed by the Earl, who laid siege to the castle.
In 1726 it is described as "one of the Earl of Caithness's lodgeings."
It was occupied during the latter half of the 19th century, but is
now unroofed and rapidly falling into ruins.
See Macfarlane's Geog. Coll., i. p. 184; Gordon's Earldom of
Sutherland, p. 148.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 25th August 1910.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
344. Broch, "Tulloch of Stemster" Stemster. - Some 200 yards SSE.
of the farm-house of Stemster is a grassy knoll on which are the
remains of a broch. The situation is a slight hollow at the top of a
long slope up from the left bank of the Forss water, and the broch
is, in consequence, not seen from the valley below. The sides of the
mound are steeply scarped to a height of about 8', and at the base,
on the NNW., a built face is exposed, showing that the mound has |
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PARISH OF REAY
probably been revetted. The broch has been situated at one side of
the knoll, leaving a space some 30' in width in front of it. The
elevation of the mound containing the ruins is about 5' and its
diameter 70'. No part of the structure is visible. Over the top
are a number of circular hollows, from 2' to 3' in depth, and varying
from 10' to 15' in diameter, which appear to be the remains of
secondary constructions. The edge of the knoll has been surmounted
by a parapet.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 17th August 1910.
345. Broch, Stemster. - At the edge of a field, about 1/2 m. N. of
Stemster Farm, is a conical grassy mound which appears to contain
the ruins of a broch. One half of it has been under cultivation and
at no point is any part of the structure exposed. The mound has an
elevation of about 11' and a diameter over all of 108'.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 17th August 1910.
346. Broch, "Tulloch of Lybster," Hill of Lybster. - On the W. side
of the farm road leading from Lybster to Crosskirk, and about half-
way between the two places, are the ruins of a broch. The tower
has been surrounded by a rampart and ditch, the former some 23'
distant from its base and faced with stone on the inner side. The
land around is under cultivation, but these defences are still visible
on the S. and SW. The broch itself has been cleared out and a wide
gap made through the wall on the SE. and NW. The interior
diameter has been about 32' 6" and the thickness of the wall 14' 6".
Small portions of the inner face of the wall are exposed at various
points, and also of the exterior face, but the structure is much ruined.
Against the outer wall towards the E. are slight remains of secondary
buildings.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 25th August 1910.
347. Broch, Crosskirk. - At the edge of the rocks about 30 yards
to the N. of the ruined church of St Mary's, Lybster (No. 338), are the
remains of a large broch. The structure has been broken into to a
small extent on the S., from which direction the entrance appears to
have been. The interior diameter is not accurately ascertainable
without excavation, but has been approximately 30' to 32'. The
thickness of the wall is 14' to 15'. The top of the mound covering
the wall is some 6' above the ground level on the exterior and 5' on
the interior. On the left of the position of the entrance the sides
of a chamber are visible in the wall. On the exterior, at the edge
of the cliff, for a distance of some 20', a portion of wall, about 4' to
5' in height, is exposed. On the landward side, about 10' from
the broch, are the remains of an outer bank or wall now some 8'
wide at base.
The symbol stone (No. 405), said to have been found in this
broch, is illustrated in The Early Christian Monuments of Scotland,
pt. iii. p. 30.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 25th August, 1910.
348. Broch, "Green Tullochs," Borrowston Mains. - At the edge of
the cliffs which descend in broken terraces of rock to the water's |
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edge some 600 or 700 yards NNW. of the farm of Borrowston Mains
are the ruin of a broch. The walls seem to have gradually settled
down and disintegrated, so that the ruin is now in appearance a
penannular ring of slaty fragments some 12' high broadening to the
base, but with the interior comparatively free from debris. The ring
is incomplete by reason that on the NE. a narrow goe has eaten its
way so far into the rock as to have entirely undermined the broch
wall in that direction, and brought about its fall. Nor is the destruc-
tion of the wall the only evidence of erosion, for 35' out from the
inner end of the geo is exposed on the surface the ragged section of
a bank of earth and stone, which originally formed a defence to the
seaward of the broch some 22' distant from its base. The entrance
has been apparently through the portion of the wall which has
fallen on the NE. The thickness of the wall is some 14' to 15' and
the diameter of the interior about 43'. At several places the outer
and inner faces of the wall are visible beneath the debris. The tower
appears to have been surrounded at 2' 7" from its base by a wall,
visible at the edge of the geo, 4' 9" in thickness. Some 22' from the
tower are the remains of the encircling bank, a section of which is
visible on the side of the geo, and which appears to have been
surmounted by a wall, a small portion of which, displaced, is visible
on the E. In front of this rampart is a ditch some 18' in width, and
now, at most, about 4' in depth, with a low mound along the top of
the counterscarp.
The O.S. map indicates that a stone cist containing human remains
was found near the spot in 1871.
O.S.M., CAITH., ("Broughs"). Visited, 16th September 1910.
349. Broch, "Knock Urray," Lower Dounreay. - About 1/2 m. S. of
Dounreay farm-house is a grassy mound on the top of which are the
ruins of a broch. It is situated partially in two fields, the dyke
passing across the centre. The diameter over all is some 87' and of
the area containing the broch about 54'. The greatest elevation is
about 10'. Ruins are visible on the E. side but no wall face appears.
There are traces of a surrounding ditch.
350. Broch, "Achbuiligan Tulloch," Upper Dounreay. - In a field
about 100 yards NE. of Loch Achbuiligan and about 1/2 m. WSW. of
Upper Dounreay, is a grassy mound containing the ruins of a broch
situated towards its SW. end. The area covered by the broch
measures approximately 60' and the depression marking the interior
about 27', but no wall faces are exposed. On the SW. the slope is
steep and has an elevation of 13', while from the opposite direction
the ground rises gradually. On the N. the ruin has been pillaged to
some extent.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 25th August 1910.
351. Broch, Achunabust. - About 100 yards NW. of Achunabust
farm-house is a grassy hillock containing the ruins of a broch.
The outline of the tower is visible at one or two points and
indicates a diameter over all of about 53'. On the W. a chamber
has been exposed by the falling in of the roof. The greatest height |
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of the mound covering the broch is 6'. Towards the W. there appear
to have been numerous out-buildings.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 8th September 1910.
352. Broch, Creag Leathan, Achvarasdal. - On the haunch of Creag
Leathan, facing the N., and some 3/4 m. S. of Achvarasdal Lodge, are the
remains of a construction most probably a broch. The stones have
been in great measure removed from it, and all details obliterated.
The original diameter has been about 66'.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Mound"). Visited, 8th September 1910.
353. Broch, Achvarasdal Lodge. - Situated in a small park im-
mediately to the N. of Achvarasdal Lodge, is a broch which has been
excavated. The entrance is from ESE. through the wall 13' in thick-
ness. At 4' inwards are checks for a door formed by a rebate of the
passage wall, and on the left behind this a rebuilt portion of wall
appears to indicate the entrance to a guard chamber. The width of
the entrance passage is 2' 9" at the outer end, 2' 6" at the inner end,
and 3' 7" behind the door checks. The height of the passage walls is
5' 4" and the covering slabs are all removed. The interior diameter
of the broch is 33'. From the inner end of the entrance passage on
the right at 19' 6" distant, measured direct, is an entrance 2' wide
giving access to a chamber in part reconstructed, from which has
apparently risen the stair. In the interior the average height of
the broch wall, which has been in places built up, is 5' 3", while
on the exterior it has not been exposed. There are indications of
considerable outbuildings which have not been excavated. A rotary
quern and a mortar of large size, the bottom of which has been broken
out, lie in the interior; and there are preserved at Achvarasdal Lodge
two narrow oblong sharpening stones, rectangular in section, of a fine-
grained, dark coloured stone.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th September 1910.
354. Fort, "Buaile Oscar," Ben Freiceadain. - On the summit of
Ben Freiceadain, at an elevation of some 750' above sea-level, is
a stone-built fort. It occupies the whole of the summit, which
measures some 850' x 500' (O.S. measurement), and is oval in outline.
Commencing where the slope of the hill is less steep on the W., a
stone wall some 5' in thickness has been built along the edge of
a natural terrace, which stretches on an average for a distance
of some 20' out from the base of the outcropping rock which forms
the side of the actual summit. This wall is carried round the N.
side of the hill on the upper slope and terminates on the NE.
Thence, round by the S. to the point of its commencement, the
scarp of outcropping rock and the natural declivity of the hill are
so steep as to render an artificial defence unnecessary. From WNW.
there has been an entrance some 5' broad through the wall, which at
this point has been increased in width to some 15'. On the left or
N. side of the entrance in the interior a large slab, 3' in height,
3' 6" in breadth, and 5' in thickness, stands against the face of the
wall in the same manner as the slabs at the entrance to the fort of
Garrywhin (No. 528). |
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On the summit towards the N. end are the remains of a
chambered cairn (No 361).
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. Visited, 9th August 1910.
355. Fort, Cnoc an Ratha, Shurrery. - Occupying the N. end of an
eminence that rises from the moor of Brawlbin, about 3/4 m. SSE. of
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 19. - Fort, Cnoc an Ratha, Shurrery (No. 355); Ground-plan.
Shurrery Church, is a prehistoric fort (fig. 19). It is an irregular oval
in form, following the contour of the hill, except on the SW. where a
straight base crosses the ridge from side to side. It is surrounded
by a stone wall some 6' to 7' in thickness, and about 2' in height on |
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PARISH OF REAY.
the external face. Interiorly it measures some 340' from N. to S.
by 300' at the widest part from E. to W., and contains 1.458 acre
(O.S. measurement). An angle in the wall on the W. side suggests
the position of an entrance, and a large slab protruding across the
wall at the NE. may indicate the situation of another. The principal
entrance, however, appears to have been from the SE. immediately
to the S. of a large circular enclosure, which abuts on the outer
wall towards the S. end of the E. side. This entrance appears to
have been 4' in width. The circular enclosure referred to is entered
from the E. and measures interiorly 27' x 32'. It is surrounded by
a stone wall, now ruined, some 7' 6" in thickness. The interior of
this enclosure has been excavated to a depth of several feet at the
back so as to bring the floor to the level of the entrance on the lower
slope of the hill. Within the interior of the fort at the SW. angle,
some 15' back from the wall, are the remains of another small
enclosure, with a diameter over all of some 25'. It has been entered
from the SE. In the interior the wall is visible for a height of
about 1' 6", and suggests a "bee-hive" structure. There appear to
be two small chambers to the right and left of the end of the
entrance passage about 5' in diameter, but the plan is not clear. At
the S. end of the low ridge on which the fort stands are the indefinite
remains of a small structure, apparently circular.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 11th August 1910.
HUT CIRCLES.
356. Hut Circle, Brawlbin. - About 3/4 m. NNW. of Dorrery Lodge,
and immediately to the E. of the march fence, is a stone-built circular
construction of indefinite character. Its diameter over all is 45'. The
entrance seems to have been from the S. directly through a wall about
9' in thickness, thereafter by a passage 2' in width passing round to
the E. The central part of the construction, with a diameter of some
13', appears to be built. In it and in the outer wall there have been
small round chambers faced with large slabs. The whole construction
is in a dilapidated state and the details of its plan very obscure.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. ("Torr Phadruig"). Visited, 9th August 1910.
357. Hut Circle, Brawlbin. - About 1 m. NNW. of Dorrery Lodge, at
the base of the eastern slope of Ben Freiceadain, is a well-preserved
hut circle (fig. 20). The enclosing wall is largely overgrown with
vegetation, but on the outside towards the S. it is exposed in places to
a height of 2'. The thickness of the main wall of the circle is 6', increas-
ing to 9' on either side of the entrance. It is entered from the ESE.
through a passage in thickness of the wall 9' in length, 5' in width
at the outer end and 2' 3" at the interior. At 4' from the inner end
two upright stones in situ have evidently formed jambs constricting the
width of the passage to 1' 6". Interiorly the circle, which is of pear-
shaped form, measures 27' by 31'. The interior is divided into two by
a wall some 2' 6" in breadth, forming an arc having its concave out-
line facing the entrance at 17' distant from it. There seems to have
been an entrance to the back enclosure near the centre of the cross
-- 7 |
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wall. Against the dividing wall, and in the front compartment on
the left of the entrance to the back, has been a small circular enclosure
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 20. - Hut Circle, Brawlbin (No. 357); Ground-plan.
measuring interiorly some 5' x 4'. The level of the back division is
rather higher than that of the front. The main wall in the interior
at highest has an elevation of nearly 4'. Against the external face
of the wall on the E. side of the entrance are indications of a small
outer construction.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. Visited, 9th August 1910.
358. Hut Circle, Shurrery. - On the E. side of the road, some 200
yards N. of the N. end of Loch Shurrery, is a circular construction
surrounded by a stone wall some 6' in thickness. The entrance appears
to have been from the SE. The interior diameter is about 26'.
Opening out of the main enclosure towards the W. and NW. have
been small circular enclosures of indefinite diameter. The whole
structure is much overgrown.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 11th August 1910.
SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS.
359. Chambered Cairn, "Torr Beag," Brawlbin. - About 1 m. NW.
of Dorrery Lodge is a large cairn which has been broken into at no
distant date. The chamber is in part wrecked, but does not appear
to have been cleared out. The diameter over all is 52' and the
elevation about 8'.
To the N. and E. of the cairn lie several small circular stony
mounds with diameters of from 12' to 16' and elevations of 1 1/2' to 2'.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. Visited, 9th August 1910. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXXIII. - Cairn, Shurrery (No. 362).
To face p. 99. |
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360. Cairn, Lambsdale Leans. - On the E. bank of the Torran Water,
about 1/4 m. above its influx into Loch Shurrery, is a cairn overgrown
with grass. It is slightly oblong on plan, lying with its longest axis
E. and W., and rises in height towards the latter direction. In
diameter it measures 55' from E. to W. by 41' from N. to S. Its
elevation at the E. end is trifling and at the W. 6' or thereby. It
has not been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. ("Mound"). Visited, 9th August 1910.
361. Chambered Cairn, Ben Freiceadain. - On the summit of Ben
Freiceadain, towards the N. end of the interior of the fort (No. 354),
is a cairn which has been dug into. The diameter over all is 50'
and the elevation 6'. One or two large slabs protruding near the
centre indicate a chambered character.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. ("Mound"). Visited, 9th August 1910.
362. Chambered Cairn, Shurrery. - Between the church at Shurrery
and the house of Mr William Farquhar, which stands in rear of it, is
a large cairn (pl. XXXIII.). From E. to W. it measures some 90' and
from N. to S. now about the same, but the building of the church and
the operations on the croft have probably curtailed its dimensions in
the latter direction. Its elevation is from 6' to 7'. Along the E. side
towards the N. end four large slabs stand exposed, edge on against the
cairn, with their faces parallel, and one other which has occupied a
similar position lies on its side, while continuing the direction of the
row towards the S. other three slabs are visible merely protruding from
the surface. The slabs measure from 4' to 5' in height above ground,
3' to 4' in breadth, and about 10" in thickness. If the fallen stone
was re-erected they would each stand from 4' to 5' apart. On the W.
side of the cairn two slabs similarly set, placed at 14' and 18' distant
from members of the row opposite, appear to belong to a parallel row,
This cairn is apparently of a plan not hitherto revealed by ex-
cavation, but it probably resembles in its complex character some of
the cairns of Orkney.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 11th August 1910.
363. Chambered Cairn, Shurrery. - About 1/4 m. SE. of the church
are the inconsiderable remains of a large circular cairn with a
diameter of about 100', which has been recently demolished for road
metal. In the interior are still remaining a number of large upright
slabs set on their edges. The positions of these slabs indicate that
there has been a chamber of complex character, or possibly two parallel
chambers, entering from the SE. The back slab of the most southerly
is some 49' in from the edge of the cairn in that direction and 45'
from the edge at the opposite side. Some 7' 6" to the NE., and
nearly in alignment, is another slab 7' in length, which appears to
have formed the back of a second chamber, one wall of which is just
apparent 5' 9" in length, built at right angles to it. A number of
the slabs have been removed and the whole cairn so much destroyed
that its plan is no longer apparent.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 13th September 1910.
364. Chambered Cairn, "Shean Mor," Brawlbin. - About 1 m. SW.
of the farm of Mains of Brawlbin, on the moor is a green mound |
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(pl. XXXIV.). In diameter it measures over all 50' and in elevation
about 6'. On the top is a slight circular depression some 12' to 13'
in diameter. Facing ENE., some 16' in from the outer edge, an
entrance is exposed 3' 6" in width passing beneath a lintel 8' 4" in
length, 2' 10" in breadth, and 9" in thickness. Immediately in rear
of this lintel is a second, similar in length and breadth but 1' 9" in
thickness. The sides of the passage supporting these massive
blocks of stone are built and are exposed for a length of 6' 6".
The entrance is filled to a height of 1' 7" from the lintels. The
uncovered upper sides of the lintels are almost level with the top
of the mound and there is no indication of the cairn having risen
above them. The inner side of the back lintel is 28' distant from
the edge of the mound at the back. In rear of the back lintel two
upright flags, set edgewise to the wall of the passage, are visible.
This appears to be a chambered cairn and the height and width of
the entrance passage are very remarkable. There is no indication
of excavation.
Some 60' to the N. are the indefinite remains of another construc-
tion, of slight elevation and entirely overgrown with turf. From the
surface here and there protrude the heads of thin slabs set on end,
but without excavation the plan and character of the construction
cannot be determined.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. Visited, 11th August, 1910.
365. Chambered Cairn (horned, long), Brawlbin. - On the moor of
Brawlbin, about 100 yards NW. of Loch a' Mhuilinn, are the remains
of a horned long cairn. It lies with its longest axis NNE. and SSW.,
rising and expanding in the former direction. The body of the cairn,
except the high portion at the NNE. end, which probably contains the
chamber, has been removed for the sake of its stones, a mere line
along each side being left. At the SSW. end the existence of the
horns is apparent, but as they are entirely overgrown, their exact
dimensions are not accurately obtainable without excavation. The
distance between what appears to be their outer points is 45', and the
length thence to the centre of that end of the cairn is 28'. At the
NNE. end the horns are not evident. The total length of the cairn
is some 200', its breadth at the NNE. end 54' and across the body
at the SSW. end 30'. The elevation at the former end is about 10'.
A slight circular depression, about 8' in diameter at the high end,
probably indicates the position of the chamber. On the W. side,
towards the S. end, the outer constructional wall is still quite
evident. Some 60' from the SSE. end a large upright slab, standing
at right angles to the main axis, possibly indicates the site of a
chamber.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. (unnoted). Visited, 11th August 1910.
366. Cairns, Hill of Shebster. - On the S. end of the Hill of
Shebster, to the E. of the church, and some 200 yards N. of the road,
is the site of a cairn. Material has been removed from it quite
recently.
Some 40 yards to the E. of it is a small, low cairn or mound with
a diameter of about 16'. In the centre there is exposed a cist lying
E. and W., measuring 4' 3" in length to the W. end of the side slabs, |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXXIV. - Cairn, "Shean Mor," Brawlbin (No. 364).
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXXV. - Horned, long Cairn, Cnoc Freiceadain (No. 370).
To face p. 100. |
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and 1' 8" in breadth. The slab at the W. end has been removed,
as also the covering slab.
On the slope of the hill to the S. are the remains of other two or
three stony mounds.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 15th August 1910.
367. Chambered Cairn, Hill of Shebster. - Occupying a conspicuous
position on the summit of the Hill of Shebster, some 400' above sea-
level, are the remains of a large chambered cairn. The diameter
of the cairn has been between 80' and 90', and a number of thin
slabs protruding from the debris, indicate the position and extent
of the chamber. The highest of these slabs is only some 2' 6" above
the present level, and the others merely protrude from the surface,
The chamber appears to have been 23' in length, and to have been
divided into four compartments by large divisional stones and entered
by a passage from ESE., along the direction of the main axis of the
chamber. At 30' in from the WNW. edge of the cairn is the top of
a slab set on end, 4' in length, which apparently marks the back of
the chamber. A little excavation would no doubt furnish the
complete plan.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 15th August 1910.
368. Cairn, Achiebraeskiall. - On the slope of the hill to the E. of
Shebster Hill, and by the side of a peat road leading from the Yellow
Moss to Achreamie, is a grassy hillock which appears to be a cairn.
It has a diameter of 81' and an elevation of from 6' to 8'. There is
no sign of its having been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 15th August 1910.
369. Chambered Cairn (horned, long), "Na Tri Shean," Cnoc
Freiceadain. - On the top of Cnoc Freiceadain, the summit to the N.
of the Hill of Shebster, is a horned long cairn, one of the finest
examples of this class of cairn in the county, and apparently un-
excavated. Being overgrown with turf, the exact configuration and
measurements of the horns are not obtainable, but their existence
is quite evident. The cairn lies with its longest axis WNW. and
ESE., and has an extreme length from tip to tip of the horns of 255'.
The main body measures from 37' to 40' in breadth and 4' to 5' in
elevation. It expands and rises towards both ends, but to the greatest
extent towards the [Note] E.S.E. In that direction it commences to expand
some 70' from the end and attains to a breadth of 60' and a height
of 10'. The horns at this end appear to be about 28' in length, and
to terminate obtusely. The distance between their outer extremities
is some 73', and from the centre of the concave outline of the cairn
38' or 39'. Towards the WNW. the expansion and increase of eleva-
tion begin about 40' from the end, and attain to 56' in breadth and
7' in height. The general appearance at this end is that of a second
circular cairn set on the low extremity of a long one. In rear of it
is a slight trench across the body of the cairn. The horns seem
to be shorter than at the opposite end, and to measure about 15' in
length. The distance between their outer extremities is about 60',
and thence to the centre of the concavity of the cairn 33'. The
facing wall is visible on the S. side towards the ESE. end. A certain |
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amount of quarrying has been done at both ends, and at no distant
date, but there is no evidence of the excavation of the chamber
or chambers.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Supposed Broughs"). Visited, 15th August 1910.
370. Chambered Cairn (horned, long), Cnoc Freiceadain. - About 100
yards N. of the E. end of the long cairn (No. 369) is another cairn
(pl. XXXV.) of similar type, stretching along the crest of the hill as
is begins to slope towards the NNE. It lies NNE. and SSW. and
rises in height and increases in breadth towards the latter direction.
The horns at that extremity are not apparent on the surface, but at
the NNE. end they are both visible, where that on the E. side has
been exposed to some extent by the removal of the turf. The total
length, irrespective of the horns at the SSW. end, is some 240'. The
cairn begins to expand at about 60' from the SSW. end, and attains
to a width of 53' and an elevation of 8'. Immediately in rear of the
expanded head, which rises almost like a separate cairn, is a slight
depression or trench across the body, which, however, is probably
secondary. The breadth of the body of the cairn is about 35' and its
elevation 4'. All along its length are small pits from which stones
have been quarried. The width of the terminal portion towards the
NNE. is 37' and its elevation about 4', but it has originally been
higher, as three large slabs set on end protrude for about 1' 6" through
the turf indicating the existence of a chamber. The length of the
horns is about 20'; the distance between their outer extremities 46';
and thence to the centre of the concavity at that end of the cairn
29'. The SSW. end shows no signs of excavation, and the whole
cairn is overgrown with turf.
The O.S. map indicates "standing-stones" beside these cairns,
but none were observed except those protruding from the denuded
chamber at the NNW. end of the second cairn.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th August 1910.
371. Cairn, Achreamie. - In an enclosed area of moorland, about
1/2 m. S. of Achreamie school, are the remains of a small round cairn.
It has a diameter of about 35' and an elevation of about 3'. Much
of it has been removed, but neither cist nor chamber has been
exposed.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Mound"). Visited, 16th August 1910.
372. Chambered Cairn (horned, round), Upper Dounreay. - On the
W. end of a slight ridge about 1/2 m. E. of Upper Dounreay are the
remains of a horned round cairn. The heads of three large slabs pro-
trude from the centre, indicating the position of the chamber, otherwise
the whole cairn is overgrown with grass. The diameter of the body
of the cairn has been about 42'. The main axis of the chamber has
been WNW. and ESE., but there is no sign of the direction of the
entrance passage. The horns have been some 22' in length and 17'
in breadth at base, while the distance between their extremities
towards the WNW. has been 40'. At 13' from the outer end of the
S. horn, laid at right angles to its direction, has been a cist. One
end and one side, consisting of single slabs, remain, showing a length |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- [Page] 103.
PARISH OF REAY.
of 3' 9" and a width of 1' 8". The upper edge of the slabs is level with
the present surface, and they are exposed for a height of some 8".
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th August 1910.
373. Chambered Cairn, Loch Calder. - On the W. side of Loch
Calder, about 3/4 m. from the S. end of the loch, and about 1/4 m. NNW.
of Carriside, is a chambered cairn. The diameter over all is 70' and
the greatest elevation is 6'. The entrance has been from the ESE.,
and some 18' from the outer edge in that direction two thin slabs,
2' 9" apart, protrude from the turf with which the cairn is overgrown,
while in front of them lies a stone which has evidently formed a
lintel. In rear of these stones several other parallel slabs protrude,
indicating the divisions of the chamber and of the back. The slab
occupying the latter position is 5' broad. None of the slabs extend
above ground for a greater height than 1' 7". No parts of the walls
of the chamber are visible. A large amount of stone has evidently
at some time been removed from the cairn on the SE.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. Visited, 22nd August 1910.
374. Chambered Cairn (horned, round), "Cnoc na h-Uiseig," Lower
Dounreay. - About 1 m. NE. of Lower Dounreay, and 1/4 m. back from
the shore, is a green hillock which appears to be a horned round cairn.
It measures some 6' to 8' in elevation. Across the centre, between
the horns, the diameter is 58' , and along the horns 70'. A large stone
near the centre of the concavity on the SE. probably marks the
position of the entrance. On the E. side of the NE. horn a portion
of the facing wall of thin slabs is visible. The outlines of the horns
are not sufficiently definite for measurement. The cairn does not
seem to have been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 25th August 1910.
375. Cairn, Knock Stanger, Sandside. - On the left bank of the
burn that flows into Sandside Bay, about 100 yards above its mouth,
is a high sandy mound on the summit of which there appears to be
a cairn. The whole is overgrown with bents, but the diameter of
the cairn seems to be about 55' and its elevation 11' or 12'. It does
not appear to have been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., ix. ("Pict's House"). Visited, 29th August 1910.
376. Chambered Cairn, Brawlbin. - On the moorland to the SW.
of Shinnery, and about 1/2 m. NE. of the cairn on the summit of Beinn
Freiceadain, is a small round chambered cairn. It has been
dilapidated to a considerable extent, and several large upright slabs
stand exposed about the centre. The diameter is some 35' and the
elevation is now inconsiderable.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. (unnoted). Visited, 13 September 1910.
377. Chambered Cairn, Brawlbin. - On the moor about 1/4 m. to the E. of
the horned long cairn near Loch a' Mhuilinn (No. 365), and to the W.
of the crofts at Brawlbin, are the remains of a small cairn. It is so
dilapidated, and has been pillaged to such an extent for stones, that
its dimensions are no longer obtainable. A single large upright slab
protruding through the turf indicates its chambered character.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii. (unnoted). Visited, 13 September 1910. |
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[Page] 104 -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF REAY.
378. Cairn, Borrowston Mains. - Some 100 yards to the SW. of
the broch at Borrowston Mains (No. 348), near the edge of the cliff
which fringes the shore, is a cairn with a diameter of some 80' and
an elevation of 10' to 11'. It is grass-covered, except towards the
W. where exposure to the elements has prevented the growth of
vegetation. On the summit at the W. side, 1' below the surface, a
short cist is exposed lying with its longer axis ESE. and WNW. It
is covered by a slab measuring 2' 7" in length, 1' 8" in breadth, and
1" in thickness. The cist itself is 2' 1" long by 1' broad and 1' 3"
deep, and is paved with four small flags. When cleared out there
were found near the centre of the floor about a dozen whelk shells,
but no remains of any interment nor any fragments of pottery. This
cairn and the adjacent broch are noted on the O.S. map as ("Green
Tullochs (Broughs)").
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 16th September 1910.
379. Cairn, West Shebster. - About 1/4 m. SW. of the cairn-like
mound (No. 387) is a heap of small stones rising from the centre of
the foundation of a larger construction which has possibly been a
cairn. The original diameter has been about 54'.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Cairn"). Visited, 8th September 1910.
380. "Grey Cairn," West Shebster. - Some 300 yards to the E.
of the last are the scanty remains of a cairn which has been almost
entirely demolished.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 8th September 1910.
381. Stone Circle (remains of), Shurrery. - About 120 yards S. of
the church at Shurrery are two pointed stones set on end, the east-
most measuring 3' 6" in breadth at base, 2' 2" in height and 1' in
thickness, and the other 3' 2" in breadth, 2' in height and also 1' in
thickness. They stand 11' 4" apart at slightly divergent angles, and
appear to have formed part of a stone circle. The ground in front, where
the rest of the circle would have stood, has been dug for peats. Both
stones stand with their faces in line of the presumed circumference.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. (unnoted). Visited, 11th August 1910.
382. Stone Cists, Shurrery. - On the NE. side of the road from
Shurrery to Brawlbin, about 1/2 m. SE. of Shurrery church, at the W.
end of a low natural ridge, are the remains of three small cist-like
compartments formed of flags set on end. The best preserved is near
the centre of the ridge. The flags of which it is formed stand 1' 2"
above the ground level on the outside, but in the interior are exposed
to a height of 2' 9". One side slab and the two end slabs remain.
The length of the side slab is 3' 8" and the breadth of the end slabs
2' and 2' 8" respectively. The main axis lies NNW. and SSE. Some
10' to the NW. and the same distance to the SE. are the remains of
similar cist-like constructions. There is no sign of the existence of
a cairn or mound.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. and xvii. Visited, 11th August 1910.
MISCELLANEOUS CONSTRUCTIONS.
383. Mound, Reay. - On the top of the hillock which rises to the
S. of the Drill Hall at Reay are the remains of a circular construction |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS -- [Page] 105
PARISH OF REAY.
with a diameter of about 50'. Its character is not obvious, and it
may possibly be the remains of a demolished cairn.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th September 1910.
384. Mound, "Torr na Craoibhe," Broubster. - At the back of the
shepherd's house at Bridge of Broubster, is a large flat-topped grassy
mound of artificial character. It measures over all about 130' in
diameter and 6' to 8' in elevation. Around the sides the foundations
of old cottages are visible but there is nothing to indicate the nature
of the original construction.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 8th September 1910.
385. Mound, East Shebster. - At East Shebster, on the E. side of
the Moss, is a grass-covered mound of irregular contour, which pre-
sents the appearance of a large cairn much pillaged for stones. It is
oval on plan, measuring some 86' x 78'. The highest portion near the
centre is 4' 6" in height. There are no indications of its character.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Cairn"). Visited, 8th September 1910.
386. Mound, West Shebster. - On the N. side of West Shebster
Hill, about 1/4 m. W. of the road from Shebster to Shurrery, is a grassy
hillock which is stony and is possibly a cairn. It has a diameter of
about 60' and an elevation of 4' 6". The outline, to some extent,
seems to be marked by stones set on end, protruding a few inches
from the turf.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Cairn"). Visited, 8th September 1910.
387. Mound, West Shebster. - About 1/4 m. to the W. of the last is a cairn-like
mound with a diameter of about 41' and elevation of about 3'. The
surface is very uneven, and appears to have been overlaid with stones
gathered from the surrounding land which has at one time been
under cultivation. The true character of the mound is indeterminate.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Cairn"). Visited, 8th September 1910.
388. Constructions, Brawlbin. - On the low side of the road from
Shurrery to Brawlbin, about 1 m. SE. of the church at the former
place, are the sites of two constructions presumably prehistoric.
Being entirely overgrown with a deep sward their character is not
evident. The construction nearest the road bears the name of
"Shean Buidhe."
O.S.M., CAITH., xvii . ("Cairns"). Visited, 11th August 1910.
389. Constructions, "Tulach Gorm," Shurrery. - On the W. side of
the road, about 600 yards N. of the N. end of Loch Shurrery, are the
remains of a large, oval, many chambered construction. Over all it
measures 88' from E. to W. by 56' from N. to S. Numerous large
pointed stones protrude irregularly through the turf. At the E. side
the outline of an oblong compartment some 23' in length by 10' in
breadth is apparent, the wall of which at one end, built of very large
stones, still stands to a height of about 3'. The outlines of founda-
tions visible on the turf seem to indicate a number of small oblong
compartments with probably a circular one in the centre, but without
excavation the plan cannot be definitely determined.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 11th August 1910. |
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[Page] 106 -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF REAY.
390. Construction, Shurrery. - On the left bank of the Forse Water,
about 1/2 m. down from Loch Shurrery, is a mound covered with the
indefinite ruins of some primitive construction. It has been much
quarried for stones and the plan is no longer evident. It has not the
general appearance of a broch, though the small piece of wall visible
on the S. resembles in its building the wall of such a structure.
There appears to have been a main central circular area with a
diameter of 24', entered from the W., with various chambers opening
off it. To the N. are the ruins of several small detached buildings.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. ("Mound"). Visited, 11th August 1910.
391. Construction, "Tota an Dranndain," Torr a' Bathaich,
Shurrery. - Some 200 yards ENE. of the shepherd's house at Torr
a' Bathaich, across the water from Creagan a' Bheannaich (No. 409),
and just outside the wall of an enclosed park, are the ruins of a large
circular construction in the building of which stones of great size have
been employed. It has been circular, with a diameter over all of 53'.
The entrance has been from the NW., measuring 2' in width at its outer
extremity, and the passage wall is evident on the right for a distance
of 10'. On the left side it is less well preserved. On that side there
appears to be an entrance to a chamber. The inner face of the wall
is not visible. While in some respects the ruin resembles a broch, a
number of large flat slabs lying exposed over the surface and certain
other features suggest that possibly it is not one. The elevation is
some 4' to 5' at most.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 11th August 1910.
392. Construction, Shurrery. - About 1/4 m. down the Forse Water
from Tigh a' Bheannaich, on the same side of the river, are the
indefinite remains of a large circular construction. A number of
large slabs set upright protrude irregularly over the surface, but
there are no indications of either the character or plan of construc-
tion. It appears to have belonged to the same class as some of the
other remains in the district.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. ("Carn Liath"). Visited, 11th August 1910.
393. Construction, Hill of Shebster. - At the SE. end of the Hill of
Shebster, and about 100 yards N. of the upper end of the W. wall of
the cultivated and enclosed parks at Shebster, are the ruins of a
circular construction. Over all it has a diameter of some 58' and
an elevation of 4'. Being entirely overgrown with thick turf its
character is obscured. There is no indication of its having been
a broch, and it more resembles the indefinite constructions found
near Shurrery.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ("Cairn"). Visited, 15th August 1910.
394. Construction, Hill of Shebster. - Some 80 yards to the westward of the last
are the foundations of an oval or circular construction with a diameter
of about 40'. There are a number of small circular depressions of some
5' or thereby in diameter in the interior, but the whole is overgrown
with thick turf and the plan and character quite obscured.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. (unnoted). Visited, 15th August 1910. |
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ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS - CAITHNESS.
[Plan inserted]
Fig. 21. STONE ROWS, UPPER DOUNREAY (No. 397) : GROUND PLAN. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 107
PARISH OF REAY.
395. Enclosure, "Garadh an Ratha," Broubster. - On the W. side
of the road, about 1/2 m. N. of the Bridge of Broubster, is a pear-shaped
enclosure. All around are the ruins of old crofts, and the character
of the construction in uncertain.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ( "Cairn"). Visited, 8th September 1910.
396. Mound, "Torr an t-Sniomha." - in the Leans of Achreregan,
on the E. side of the road to Shurrery, and about 3/4 m. N. of Broubster
Bridge is a grassy cairn-like mound known as "Torr an t-Sniomha."
It has a diameter of about 50' and an elevation of about 6' . It has
been much dug into from the S. There are no slabs visible to indi-
cate its character, but possibly it has been a kiln.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 8th September 1910.
397. Stone Rows, Upper Dounreay. - In a hollow at the N. end of
Cnoc Freiceadain, about 3/4 m. E. of Upper Dounreay, is a setting of
stone rows (fig. 21). The rows, of which there appear to have been
thirteen, lie in a general direction WNW. and ESE., radiating from the
former direction, the expansion being principally directed towards the
S. side of the monument. The stones are of the usual character - thin
slabs protruding to about 1 1/2' above ground, set with their faces across
the rows. A number of the stones lie displaced and many are sunk
beneath the surface. They stand some 4' to 5' apart, and the rows
are 6' to 8' distant from each other near the contracted end and from
6' to 11' at their other termination. The number of stones remaining
in situ appears to be about 115. The width across the rows at the
narrow end of the monument has been some 44' , and at the broad
end about 115', while the length of the rows is about 100'. The
largest stones are at the outer terminations of the rows. Four stones,
from 1' to 1' 2" in length and the same in height above ground,
placed so that they form a somewhat irregular square of 4' at the
WNW., probably marks the original point from which the rows have
radiated at the edge of the hollow. The stones are firmly wedged
into the ground in the same manner as the other stones of the
monument. Within the square there is no sign of a cist, nor
does the soil appear to have been disturbed. Some two-thirds of
the distance towards its broader extremity, the monument has been
cut through by a road, and possibly a similar cause has destroyed
the rows between the small square setting and their present
commencement.*
On the top of a bank to the W. of the stone rows there are
* The following passage seems to be descriptive of a similar setting of stone
rows at Borlum. It came under notice after the inspection of the monuments
in the county had been completed, and inquiries made locally have failed to lead
to the identification of the monument:-
"On a ridge of the Borlum Hills, and within sight of Achinabest, is a
quantity of upright stones about 6' apart and in straight rows as if of an
ancient burying-ground. The peculiarity is that there are two groups at a dis-
tance of 100 yards from each other, the largest of which would represent,
from the number of stones in it, the burial of ninety persons at least, the lesser
group lower down the ridge counting about fifty. Above both groups, against a
long wall-like rock, there is a large enclosure with apparently a fortified gate,
which has the character of an entrenchment or place of safety." ( The Gunns,
p. 55.) |
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[Page] 108 -- HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF REAY.
remains of two constructions which may have been small hut circles
or mounds, but their character is now indefinite.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th August 1910.
398. Standing-Stone, Shurrery. - Some 300 yards SSE. of the
church at Shurrery is a standing-stone. It is a broad angular slab,
pointed upwards, measuring 3' 6" in height, 4' in breadth at the
centre, 2' 8" in breadth at the base, and 1' 4" in thickness. It faces
NE. and SW. At 147' to the NE. of it, a pointed stone set on end
protrudes some 2' from the peat in which it is firmly set.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 11th August 1910.
399. Standing-Stone, Upper Dounreay. - In a grass park 1/2 m. E. of
Upper Dounreay, and about 200 yards W. of the horned round cairn
(No. 372), is a large standing-stone. It is a slab of sandstone, slightly
pointed at the upper end, 6' 7" in height above ground, 4' 2" in
breadth, and 1' in thickness. It faces ESE. and WNW.
400. Standing-Stone, Upper Dounreay. - Some 300 yards ESE. of the farm-house
of Upper Dounreay is a large columnar boulder in the middle of a
corn field. It is roughly quadrangular, measuring 6' in length by
2' 4" or thereby across each face, and is now tilted considerably
towards the W.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th August 1910.
401. Standing-Stones, Broubster Village. - On the moor to the
eastwards of the ruined croft of Aultan, and about 3/4 m. E. of
Broubster Village, are two standing-stones about 120 yards distant
from each other. The southmost stone measured 3' 10" in height,
2' in breadth, and 8" in thickness. It faces ENE. and WSW., and
is pointed towards the upper end. The second stone stands to the
northwards and faces N. and S. It measures 4' 6" in height, 2' 1"
in breadth, 1' 1" in thickness at base decreasing to 7" upwards.
There are no stones visible as parts of a setting anywhere between
these two monoliths.
402. Standing-Stones, Aultan, Broubster. - About 100 yards SW.
of the ruined croft of Aultan, and 1/2 m. ENE. of Broubster Village,
is a standing-stone , measuring 4' in height above ground, 2' 4" in
breadth, and 10" in thickness. It faces E. and W., and is pointed
towards the upper end. In its immediate vicinity are several other
slabs, apparently set on end, protruding to a less degree above
ground. They are, however, irregularly placed, and it is doubtful
if they have formed part of a prehistoric setting of stones. The
adjacent ground has been under cultivation.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 22nd August 1910.
403. Standing-Stone, "Clach Clais an Tuirc," Achvarasdal Burn. -
Situated on slightly elevated ground to the E. of the Achvarasdal
Burn, just where it issues from the pass between Creag Mhor and
Creag Bheag, is a standing-stone known as "Clach Clais an Tuirc"
(pl. XXXVIII.). It is a quadrangular block measuring 6' 2" in height
above ground, 3' 6" in greatest breadth, 2' 11" in breadth at base, and
2' in thickness. It faces E. and W.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 8th September 1910. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXXVI. - Sculptured Stone, Sandside (No. 406).
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXXVII. Sculptured Stone, Sandside (No. 407).
To face p. 109. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. -- [Page] 109
PARISH OF REAY.
404. Standing-Stones, Achvarasdal Lodge. - Some 60 yards to the
NE. of the kitchen-garden at Achvarasdal Lodge lies a large fallen
monolith, measuring 11' 10" in length, and square in section, with
a diameter of 2' 6"; while some 60' to the S. of it lies another
similar stone, 11' 6" in length, also rectangular in section, with a
diameter of 2' 5" at base and less at the opposite end. Both stones
lie pointing in the same direction, viz., E. and W., and have
evidently at one time been standing-stones.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. ( unnoted). Visited, 16th September 1910.
405. Sculptured Stone found in Broch, Lybster. - A sculptured stone,
said to have been found in the broch (No. 347) near the old Chapel
of St Mary's, Lybster, in Reay, is described and illustrated in the
Sculptured Stones of Scotland, and in The Early Christian Monuments of
Scotland. It is of Caithness sandstone, rectangular in form, 2' 3" in
height by 2' 2" in width, and is sculptured on one face with incised lines,
thus:- At the top, the crescent and V-shaped sceptre symbol, and below
it the horse-shoe or arch symbol, both ornamented with curved lines.
The stone is said to have been presented to the King of Denmark by
Sir George Sinclair, the proprietor, but it has not been traced.
See Sculptured Stones of Scotland, i. p. 11, pl. xxx ; Early Christ.
Mon., pt. iii. p. 30 (illus.).
O.S.M., CAITH., iv.
406. Sculptured Stone, Sandside. - At Sandside House there is a
stone incised with symbols (pl. XXXVI.), which was found built into
a stone dyke near Shurrery, not far from Tigh a' Bheannaich, which
was evidently the site of a chapel or religious foundation. It is a
rectangular block of sandstone, 2' 5" in length, 9" in breadth, and 8"
in thickness. On the face of the stone is incised a small stemmed
circle or orb, 4" in diameter, containing an equal-armed cross. The
stem is 3 1/2" in length, 1" in breadth where it joins the circle, and 1 1/2 "
at base. Beneath, and occupying the breadth of the stone, is a plain
circle with a diameter of 8".
407. Sculptured Stone, Sandside. - Placed against a wall at the E. side of
Sandside House, and set within a wooden frame, is another sculptured
slab (pl. XXXVII.). It was found about fifty years ago, near the site
of an ancient settlement on the sand links by the sea shore at Sand-
side, and was subsequently used to cover a mill-lade where a road
crossed, in which position it remained until September 1889, when
it attracted the notice of Mr Pilkington, the proprietor of Sandside,
during some repairs to the mill-lade, and who removed it for pre-
servation to Sandside House. It is a rectangular slab of the hard
sandstone of the district, 4' 8 1/2" long by 1' 11 1/2" wide by 3 1/2" thick,
sculptured on one face wth incised lines, thus:-
Front. - At the top, a symbol (unnoticed previous to the discovery
of this stone), consisting of a horizontal row of three flattened ovals,
joined together in the middle by pairs of small circles, and having a
double outline at the tops and bottoms of the ovals; below this, the
mirror-case symbol; and at the bottom, the mirror-and-comb symbol.
See Early Christ. Mon., pt. iii. p. 29.
O.S.M., CAITH., ix. Visited, 29th August 1910. |
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[Page] 110 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
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408. Market Cross, Reay. - On the S. of the road in the hamlet of
Reay there stands a rude cross (pl. XXXIX.), the upper arm of which
is awanting. In height it measures 4' 3" above ground, and in width
across the arms 1' 11". The shaft, which is cylindrical, measures
2' 9 1/2" in circumference. The arms are 9" in breadth at the intersec-
tion and diminish to 6" at their extremities. This is said to be the
Market Cross removed from Old Reay situated nearer the sea.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 29th August 1910.
SITES.
409. Chapel and Graveyard, "Creagan a' Bheannaich." - At the
croft of Tigh a' Bheannaich, Shurrery, about 100 yards back from the
river, is a low stony mound from which a number of large stones
protrude through the turf. It is said to be the site of a graveyard,
and the name of the neighbouring croft suggests the site of a primitive
oratory or church.
O.S.M., CAITH., xvi. Visited, 11th August 1910.
410. Chapel, Isauld. - Among the sand dunes to the NE. of the
Isauld Burn, some 300 or 400 yards back from its mouth, are the
foundations of a structure which may be those of a chapel. The
remains are very slight.
O.S.M., CAITH., x. Visited, 16th September 1910.
The O.S. maps indicate sites as under :-
411. Chapel near Craigton. -- O.S.M., CAITH., iv.
412. Chapel 1/2 m. N. of Reay Church. -- O.S.M., CAITH., x.
413. "North Cairn," Lower Dounreay. -- O.S.M., CAITH., iv.
414. "Peas Cairn," Lower Dounreay. -- O.S.M., CAITH., iv.
415. Cairn near Bridge of Broubster. -- O.S.M., CAITH., x.
416. Tumulus near Bridge of Broubster. -- O.S.M., CAITH., x.
417. Standing-Stones about 1/2 m. E. of Upper Dounreay -- O.S.M., CAITH., x.
PARISH OF THURSO.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
418. St Peter's Church, Thurso. - Situated in the old part of the
town of Thurso, and adjacent to the river, are the ruins of St Peter's
Church (figs, 22, 23, and 24). It is cruciform on plan, without aisles,
measuring externally some 79' from E. to W. by 82' from N. to S.
across the transepts. A plan made upwards of twenty years ago by
the Rev. Alexander Millar of the Free Church, Buckie, and here
reproduced (fig. 22), discloses at the E. end a low vaulted apsidal cell
about 19' long by 10' wide, placed in the centre line of the choir and
nave, which are about 23' wide. This cell is square on the outside,
and its walls measure from 3' 6" to 4' in thickness. It is lighted by
two small slits about 12" wide, one in the centre and the other in the
N. side, which pass straight through the wall without any check for
glass. On the S. face there is an opening which may have been a door.
Unfortunately the opening from the nave has been built up and access
is now unobtainable. Adjoining this cell-like structure on the S. side |
|
| caithness-1911/05_193 |
Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXXVIII. - Standing-Stone. "Clach Clais an Tuirc," Achvarasdal Burn (No 403).
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XXXIX. - Market Cross, Reay (No. 408).
To face p. 110. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 111
PARISH OF THURSO.
there is a curiously planned staircase tower, placed at an acute angle
to the wall, so that it does not range with any limb of the cross. It
measures about 14' square over the walls; tapers very much as it
rises, and has in the centre of its S. and E. faces a rounded buttress of
unusual form, finished with a sloping offset 12' or so above the ground.
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 22. - St Peter's Church, Thurso (No. 418) ; Ground-plan.
A vaulted passage 8' long leads from the church in a slanting
direction to the wheel stair.
The N. and S. transepts are not in alignment with each other.
The S. transept, about 19' wide, is spanned by an arch on the inside
so as to continue the wall of the nave and choir after a manner found
in churches dating from about the period of the Reformation. It is
not unlikely that the N. transept was similarly treated. In the
gables of the transepts and nave are large pointed windows, filled with |
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PARISH OF THURSO.
plain intersecting tracery. The porch at the re-entering angle of
the nave and S. transept is a large one with stone seats, giving access
to the transept by a curious zig-zag entrance, not unlike the entrance
to a well-defended castle, which may be due to an alteration. There
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 23. - St Peter's Church, Thurso : interior looking S. (No. 418)
is another porch in the N. transept. The masonry of the church
throughout is all of one class of local stone laid in thin courses,
except in the lower part of the S. wall of the cell, where some courses
can be seen, above the heaped up rubbish, of a distinctly different
character from the rest of the building.
Considered in its entirety it seems unlikely that the erection of
this church belongs all to one period, and that it was originally
planned as we now see it, with its transepts out of alignment with
each other, with the cell at the E. end, and the eccentrically placed |
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PARISH OF THURSO.
tower. One is forced to conclude from the plan that it has been
evolved during a long period to meet the requirements of different ages.
The apsidal cell, square on the outside, has more affinity to a
structure of the 12th century, such as St Margaret's Chapel in
Edinburgh Castle, than to a building of the 16th or 17th century, to
which period the nave and transepts belong. The dedication of the
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 24. - St Peter's Church, Thurso : S. window from the exterior (No. 418).
church to St Peter suggests an early date. It is stated that Gilbert
Murray, Bishop of Caithness (d. 1245) founded a church in Thurso,
which was a prebend of the Bishop of that See.
The church and the churchyard are in a neglected condition.
The walls of the church are practically entire, but the structure is
now quite roofless and is rapidly falling into ruins. It was occupied
as the Parish Church down to 1832, and early in the 18th century
part of it appears to have been used as a court-house and prison.
See Cast. and Dom. Arch., v. p. 188 (plans and illus.) ; The Ancient
Church of Scotland (Walcott), p. 131 ; Macfarlane's Geog. Coll., i. p. 170.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 8th August 1910.
Sepulchral Monuments.
419. In the W. wall of the burying ground is a tablet carved in
high relief with the date 1357 and the letters T W and G C. The
character of the lettering, however, as well as of the numerals,
belongs to a much later period, probably to the 16th century.
420. Lying in the nave beside the E. wall is a flat inscribed slab,
in part obliterated. It bears to be the tomb of Adam Davidson,
Burgess of Inverness, indweller in Thurso, "quha departed in June
1587 being 66, " and of his spouse Katherine Sinclair "quha departed
[Stamp] Royal Commn.
Anc. Mons. Scot. |
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[Page] 114 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF THURSO.
May 1597 being 70." In the centre of the slab is a shield bearing
impaled arms, - the dexter obliterated; sinister, a cross engrailed.
Surmounting the shield has been the motto VIVAT POST FUNERA
VIRTUS.
421. On the W. side of the S. transept, close to the S. window, a
slab much effaced, built into the wall, marks the burial-place of James
Sinclair of Borlum, his wife Elizabeth Innes, and his eldest son.
The inscriptions on both the above tombs are given at length in
Henderson's Caithness Family History, pp. 303 and 255.
422. Chapel, Brims. - About 140 yards N. of the tower of Brims
are the remains of a mortuary chapel or mausoleum. It measures over
all 28' x 24', with walls 3' in thickness. The entrance is from the E.
and by a square-headed doorway, with a bead-and-hollow moulding
on jambs and lintel. The interior is vaulted, and is lighted by a small
square aperture in the W. wall. It is a structure of late date.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 8th August 1910.
423. Chapel, Thurso. - Along the Victoria Walk and about 1/2 m.
W. of Thurso, are the remains of a chapel. The gables have been
reduced to the level of the side walls, the doors and windows
built up, and the interior used as a burial-place. It measures over
all 44' 3" x 19' 8". In the S. wall have been two round-headed
windows with continuous bead-and-hollow mouldings, measuring 2'
x 3' 8", and a larger window has occupied the centre of the E. gable.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 21st September 1910.
CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC STRUCTURES.
424. Brims Castle. - This castle is situated on the top of the
rocks on the W. side of the Brims Burn where it flows into the sea,
and is now occupied as part of a farm-house. The keep is a small
rectangular building, measuring over all 23' x 17' 6", with a tower
10' 6" square, containing a newel stair projecting northwards at the
NE. angle. The entrance doorway is in this tower at the first floor
level where the stair to the second floor and attic floor begins. The
thickness of the walls of the keep at the basement is 4' 6". The
keep or main building is two storeys in height and contains a single
room on each floor. It is finished with a span roof and crow-stepped
gables. At the point of junction of the stair tower with the main
building on the E. is a small rounded turret supported on continuous
mouldings, finished with an upper ornamented band of chequers and
overlooking the position of the original entrance. The usual narrow
staircase in the thickness of the wall at the SE. angle has connected
the basement with the hall above, and a hatchway existed in the
hall floor, measuring about 3' 6" x 2' 6", through the vaulted
basement.
To the northward of the tower is a small courtyard with buildings
on the N. side, and a probable kitchen of later date than the keep,
about 14' 6" x 8' 8", filling up the space between the tower and the
keep, while a later two-storeyed building has been erected to the E.
Giving access to this courtyard from the W. is a round-arched gate- |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 115
PARISH OF THURSO.
way with continuous mouldings, much worn away on the jambs and
arch. The tower probably dates from the latter half of the 16th
century, from which date it was in possession of Sinclairs, cadets of
the Dunbeath family.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 8th August 1910.
425. Old House, Bank Street, Thurso. - At the head of Bank Street,
Thurso, stands a particularly interesting example of a late 17th century
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 25. - Old House, Bank Street, Thurso (No. 425).
town mansion of moderate size (fig. 25). It is now rather closely sur-
rounded by buildings and is approached from the street on the E. side, |
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[Page] 116 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF THURSO.
while to the N. there is a small garden belonging to it. The house is
of the L plan, measuring about 70' long by 26' 6" wide, the wing on the
S. side measuring 15' x 35'. The thickness of the walls of the house is
3'. There is a slight projecting porch on the N. side, neatly moulded
and wrought, leading to a fine scale and platt stair serving the three
upper floors, the solid newel of which, so characteristic of the 17th
century, has an opening opposite the staircase window to light the
far off flight of steps. There is now no immediate communication
between the rooms on the ground floor and those above. All the
floors are arranged on a very similar plan, with five moderately sized
rooms on each (see fig. 26). The house has been carefully planned
and finished, all the interior doors in the thick walls having neatly
moulded architraves wrought in stone, and there are mouldings round
[Plan inserted]
FIG. 26. - Old House, Bank Street, Thurso (No. 425) ; Ground-plan.
the windows on the outside. On the first floor there was undoubtedly
a hall alongside the stair, now occupied by a closet and narrow
passage, which would give a dignity to the house it does not now
possess.
In the W. room on the N. side there is a largefireplace about
3' in height. The lintel (fig. 27) is of one stone, about 9' in length,
and 1' 9 1/4" in depth, with flat mouldings returned at the ends to form
the jambs. In the centre is a monogram formed of the letters D.M.C.
and surrounded by a wreath of foliage. To the left of the wreath is an
ornate shield bearing arms:- a shake fork couped, with a star in chief;
and to the right a similar shield bearing arms - three stars, and at
fess point a besant (now from mutilation resembling a crescent): in
dexter chief, another star for difference - the arms of Murray of
Clairden to whom the house formerly belonged. At the right end
are the figures 16 and at the left 79. Along the top runs the legend
SEMPER FOCUS BONUS EST. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XL. - Old House, Shore Street, Thurso (No. 426).
To face p. 117. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 117
PARISH OF THURSO.
The monogram and arms indicate that the house was the property
of David Murray of Clairden, who married Janet, daughter of John
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 27. - Carved Mantelpiece in Old House, Bank Street, Thurso (No. 425).
Cunningham of Brownhill and Geise. He was a person of consider-
able note, and died in 1686.
On the front wall adjoining the fireplace there is a solidly built flat
buttress extending from the ground to the eaves; this seems to be
intended to compensate the vacancy made in the wall by the large
fireplace and its flue, as in bulk the buttress about equals the space of
the fireplace.
See Caithness Family History, p. 197.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 18th September 1910.
426. Old House, Shore Street, Thurso. - On the N. side of Shore
Street, Thurso, is an old 17th-century dwelling of picturesque appear-
ance (pl. XL.). It is a two-storeyed building 57' in length, with a
circular turret 6' 6" in diameter, standing out in the centre of the
frontage, containing the stair that communicates with the houses on
the upper floor. On the skew-put of the W. gable at the S. side are
the initials D.W.K.R. and the date 1686.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 21st September 1910.
427. Carved Mantelpiece in Old House, Davidson's Entry, Thurso. -
At the end of the alley which runs W. from Davidson's Entry is an
old house with its back to Bank Street. Architecturally it presents no
feature of interest, but in a room on the first floor is a fine old carved
mantelpiece of stone (fig. 28), dating probably from the end of the 17th
or early 18th century. It is 4' in length by 1' 1" in depth. Along the
top runs an egg enrichment. In the centre of the panel beneath is
a shield bearing arms :- a cross engrailed in the first canton : an eagle
head erased contourné ; in the second the initials GMM ; and in |
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[Page] 118. HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF THURSO.
the third and fourth respectively the initials I. and S. On either
side of the shield is a lion passant; while a thistle and a rose com-
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 28. - Carved Mantelpiece in Old House, Davidson's Entry, Thurso (No. 427).
plete the ornamentation at the respective ends of the panel. The
carving is bold and spirited.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 21st September 1910.
428. Old House, Thurso. - To the N.W. of St Peter's Church is an
ancient building used as a granary. It has been entirely renewed
inside. On a corbel at the SW. angle are the initials WS.KP., and on
one of the upper quoins at the opposite side of the gable the date
June 1627.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 21st September 1910.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
429. Broch, Scrabster. - In a grass park on the N. side of the road
from Thurso to Reay and about 3/4 m. W. of Scrabster House, is a
grassy mound containing a broch. The mound is encircled by a
ditch 32' in width and 8' to 9' in depth, with a bank, formed of the
upcast, crowning the counterscarp. From the top of the scarp rises
a parapet wall or rampart, now some 3' in height. The ruin, situated
some 20' back from the parapet above the ditch, is entirely overgrown
with grass, and measures some 73' in diameter and 4' to 5' in eleva-
tion. The depression which marks the extent of the interior measures
32' in diameter.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 8th August 1910.
430. Broch, Geise. - At the edge of a field beside the Burn of
Geise, about 1/4 m. W. by S. of Geise, is a mound overgrown with
grass. It appears to have been a broch, but it has been quarried into
at some time and the greater part of the structure has been removed, |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 119
PARISH OF THURSO.
so that there is now no definite indication of its character. This is
possibly the "Pict's House" referred to by Bishop Pococke in 1760.
See Pococke's Tours, p. 133.
O.S.M., CAITH., xi. Visited, 13th August 1910.
431. Broch, "Bell Mount," Scrabster. - On the top of an eminence
in a grass park about 1/2 m. NW. of Scrabster House, are the remains
of a broch now of slight elevation and overgrown with turf. The
diameter seems to be about 54', but no part of the structure is
visible.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 13th August 1910.
432. Broch, "Thing's Va" Scrabster. - At the edge of the moorland
towards the S. end of Scrabster Hill is situated the broch of "Thing's
Va," which has been partially excavated. It has stood on a mound
cut off from the higher level to the N. by a ditch some 30' in width,
8' in depth below the top of the scarp, and about 4' below the top
of the bank above the counterscarp. The broch has occupied the
centre of the mound some 18' to 20' back from the edge of the ditch.
The entrance-passage has been from the SE., and appears to have
been 15' in length and 3' 6" in width at the outer end. At 3' 10"
inwards on either side the passage expands to 4' 3", forming checks
for a door, faced with slabs set edgewise into the wall, constricting the
passage-way between them to 2' 10". On the right of the passage
behind the door checks there has evidently been the entrance to a
guard chamber, the inner edge of which is visible, but neither passage
nor chamber are cleared of debris. At 8' inwards from the first
door checks are another pair of slabs, opposite to each other, set
edgewise into the walls. Beyond this the left wall is concealed by
a secondary wall curving round to the right into the interior of the
broch, which has not been cleared out. The left wall of the passage
exists to a height of about 4', and the right to about 3', and it is
roofless throughout. The inner face of the main wall of the broch
is exposed at several points, indicating an interior diameter of about
30'. The exterior is not laid bare. In addition to the secondary
wall at the end of the passage another is visible some 9' to the left
of it in the interior. The diameter of the mound across the top of
the broch is about 110'.
The name given to this broch is a corruption of the old Norse
term "Thing-völlr," meaning the site of the "thing" or local assembly,
or court of laws.
433. Broch, Scrabster. - Some 60 yards E. of Thing's Va broch is a
low grassy mound, with a diameter over all of about 70' and an
elevation of about 6', which has to some extent been quarried into
from the N. side. It has the appearance of a broch.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 17th August 1910.
434. Broch, "Brimside Tulloch," Lythemore. - About 1/2 m. NNW.
of Lythemore, at the upper end of a field which lies between the
Forss Water and the road from Milton to Forss, are the ruins of a
broch. The outer face of the wall is at several places exposed,
indicating a diameter over all of some 58'. The greatest elevation
is 4' to 5'. A considerable amount of stone is exposed on the surface, |
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[Page] 120 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF THURSO.
but the broch does not appear to have been excavated. The situation
is on an outcrop of rock with a burn flowing by the foot of it on
the S.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. Visited, 17th August 1910.
435. Broch, Hoy. - In the centre of the steading of Hoy farm are
the remains of a broch. The close proximity of the farm-house has
necessitated the demolition of the tower on one side, and elsewhere
the facing stones have been in large measure removed. The diameter
of the mound as it remains is some 45', and its elevation 13' to 14'.
A section of the wall exposed shows it to have been 15' in thickness.
About 1' below the surface on the top of the mound at the S. edge
are protruding the remains of a human skeleton. The body has
been laid extended E. and W.
O.S.M., CAITH., xi. Visited, 7th September 1910.
[In margin] OLRIG Ph.
436. Broch, Ha' of Duran. - Some 300 yards WNW. of Ha' of
Duran, at the edge of a burn, is a grassy mound which evidently
marks the site of a broch. No part of the tower is visible, and the
ruin is probably covered with the foundations of secondary buildings.
The elevaton of the mound is inconsiderable.
O.S.M., CAITH., xii. Visited, 9th September 1910.
437. Broch, "Tulloch of Shalmstry," Weydale. - Situated on the
E. side of the road from Thurso to Georgemas, and some 300 yards
SE. of Shalmstry farm, is a green mound containing the ruins of a
broch. The outer face of the wall is exposed towards the S.E., and
the diameter over all appears to have been some 72'. The elevation
is about 7'. The entrance passage, which has been from the E. ,
has been cleared out at its outer termination and there measures
2' 10" in width.
O.S.M., CAITH., xi. Visited, 7th September 1910.
438. Fort, Holburn Head. - Across the landward end of the east-
most promontory of the headland are the ruins of a broad defensive
wall built of the shaley slabs that outcrop in profusion all around.
In several places the outer face of the wall is exposed for a height of
from 2' to 3', but for the most part it is covered with debris, or in ruins.
The actual thickness of the wall is doubtful, but it appears to have
benn 7' or 8'. In fron of this defence the neck of the promontory
is cut into from either side by deep narrow chasms into which the
waves break, reducing the passage-way to about 60 yards. The
entrance through the wall has been opposite this passage
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 13th August 1910.
SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS.
439. Chambered Cairn (horned, long), "Gallow Hill," Sordale Hill.-
Near the SW. end of Sordale Hill, on the top of the slope which rises
above the road from Thurso to Georgemas, is a horned long cairn. It
occupies a conspicuous position visible on the sky line from afar off
on the W. The cairn is overgrown with grass and heather, and the
horns are obscured with the exception of that on the E. side of
the SSE. extremity. The longest axis lies NNW. and SSE., and the |
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PARISH OF THURSO.
cairn rises and expands towards the latter direction. The extreme
length is some 240', the breadth at the NNW. 42', and the elevation
about 5'. At the SSE. the breadth is 82' and the elevation about
10'. The main part of the cairn measures some 44' in breadth and
7' to 8' at its greatest elevation. The expanded portion at the end is
about 90' in length. The one horn which is apparent appears to
be about 25' long. There has been a considerable amount of
dilapidation in rear of the expanded end and towards the NNW.
extremity, which appears to have risen slightly in elevation.
O.S.M., CAITH., xi. Visited, 7th September 1910.
440. Chambered Cairn, Sordale Hill. - Some 25 yards to the S.
of the last are the remains of a round chambered cairn. Its
diameter at the present time is some 34' and its elevation about
3' ; but as the field in which it is situated has long been under cultiva-
tion, its dimensions have probably been considerably reduced. The
entrance to the chamber has been from the WSW. At 21' inwards
from the present edge a slab protrudes, which has evidently formed
the back of the chamber. It is exposed for a height of 2' 8" above
ground and measures 4' 5" in breadth and 1' 2" in thickness. Some
3' 7" in front of it the heads of two slabs in line and 2' 6" apart are
visible, dividing the chamber. Though the chamber is ruined, there
is no evidence of its having been excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., xi. ("Mound"). Visited, 7th September 1910.
441. Chambered Cairn (horned, long), Sordale HIll. - On the W.
side of Sordale Hill, some 400 yards N. of the long cairn (No. 439),
is another. It lies N. and S. and expands and rises slightly towards
the latter direction. It has an extreme length of 135'. At the N. end
it measures some 34' in breadth and 3' in elevation, and at the S. 53'
in breadth and 7' in elevation. Near the centre of its length it is
some 40' broad and 4' 6" high. At the S. end both horns are apparent
for a distance of some 20' from the cairn, but have been reduced by
ploughing. At the N. end the horn on the E. side only is visible,
and it extends for a distance of 18' from the cairn. Some 43' along
the cairn, from the centre of the N. end, a slab 3' 6" broad, set on
end in the direction of the main axis of the cairn, protrudes for a
few inches and possibly marks the position of a chamber. The
cairn is entirely overgrown with grass, and, though it has been
considerably dilapidated, there is no indication of its having been
excavated.
O.S.M., CAITH., xi. ("Mound"). Visited, 7th September 1910.
442. Chambered Cairn, "Cnoc na Ciste," Sordale Hill. - On the
top of Sordale Hill, and on the line of the boundary between the
parishes of Bower and Thurso, is a chambered cairn. In diameter
it measures 63' from N. to S. by 56' from E. to W., and in elevation
about 8'. The chamber was partially excavated about fifteen years
ago without any record being published, and is now in a ruined state.
It entered by a passage from the SSE., is said to have been circular,
and to have yielded no relics. A large erect slab, evidently forming
the back of the chamber, is visible 20' inwards from the edge. Some
three years previous to the excavation there was discovered, beneath |
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a large slab at the side of the passage, a flat-bottomed urn, measuring
some 4 1/2" in height, decorated in bands of chevron ornament,
separated by horizontal lines. This vessel passed into the possession
of Sir Francis Tress Barry, and is now in the National Museum of
Antiquities, Edinburgh.* The base of the cairn is marked by a
setting of large boulders from 2' to 4' in length, placed on edge at
irregular intervals.
O.S.M., CAITH., xii. Visited, 7th September 1910.
MISCELLANEOUS.
443. Font, Thurso. - In rear of the houses in Miller's Lane, Thurso,
lies an old octagonal block of freestone with a deep circular basin
on the top. It measures 1' 4" in height, 2' 1" in diameter over all,
and 1' 7" across the basin. The depth of the basin is 1'. There
are no tracesof ornament on it. This is said to be the font of
St Peter's Church.
444. Sculptured Stone, Thurso Castle. - This sculptured symbol
stone, known as "The Ulbster Stone" (pl. XLI.), at one time stood in
the old burial-ground at Ulbster, from whence it was removed to its
present position on the summit of a high conical mound by the side
of the avenue, and some 150 yards distant from the front of Thurso
Castle. The stone, which is fully illustrated and described in The
Early Christian Monuments of Scotland, is of old red sandstone,
approximately rectangular; measures 5' in height by 3' in width
at the top, and 2' 6" at the bottom, and is 7 1/2" thick. Sculptured
partly in relief and partly with incised lines on both faces are the
following details : Front - In the centre a cross with a head, having
equal arms terminating in square ends, cusped hollows in the angles
between the arms ; a narrow shaft, and a rectangular base. In the
background of the cross, and on each side of the arms, are animals,
one apparently intended for a cow. On the left of the shaft two men
kneeling with a cauldron (?) between them ; and below, a serpent. On
the right of the shaft the flower symbol ; and below, a horse and colt.
The cross in the centre of the slab is entirely covered with ornament,
arranged in ten separate panels filled in with the key pattern, inter-
laced work, and four-cord plait. Back - In the centre a plain Latin
cross with four equal arms ; at the top the elephant, fish, crescent,
and V-shaped rod symbols, and a beast with the tail curved over its
back. Below, the step, hippo-campus, and double disc symbols (the
latter without the Z-shaped rod), two crescents, and a small circle.
It is greatly to be regretted that the cross on one face has been
mutilated by a modern inscription, "The Ulbster Stone," cut in
Gothic letters across it. Owing to the exposed situation in which
the stone at present stands, the sculpture has suffered considerably
and is likely to disappear.
See Early Christ. Mon., pt. iii. p. 33 (illus.).
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 6th August 1910.
445. Sculptured Stone, Thurso Museum. - In the museum at Thurso
lies in pieces a remarkably fine sculptured stone, taken from the
* Information supplied by Mr A. Murray, Land Steward, Stemster. |
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Ancient and Historical Monuments - Caithness.
[Picture inserted]
PLATE XLI. - Sculptured Stone (back), from Ulbster (No. 444).
To face p. 122. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 123
PARISH OF THURSO.
chapel at Skinnet. It is a rectangular slab of sandstone 7' 6" in
length, 2' 2" in width, and 7" in thickness, and is sculptured partly
in relief and partly with incised lines on four faces, thus : Front -
A cross in relief in the centre of the slab, having four equal arms
with expanded ends and small round hollows in the angles ; a long,
narrow shaft, and a rectangular base. In the background, round the
head of the cross, four circular bosses or medallions ; on each side of
the shaft a serpentine creature, and below the base a pair of stepping
horses, evidently yoked together. The ornamentation consists of
spiral work, interlaced work, plait work, and loops. Back - A cross
in the centre of the slab, having a head with square ends and
rectangular hollows between the arms : a long, narrow shaft, and a
rectangular base, the outline being formed by a band, making a loop
at each corner. Though much defaced, the cross had apparently
been filled in with interlaced and spiral work. Below the cross is
the triple oval symbol similar to that on the
Sandside and Keiss stones (Nos. 407 and
577), and at the bottom of all, the crescent
and V-shaped sceptre symbol, both symbols
being decorated with spiral work in relief.
Right side - Divided into three panels, one
containing an eight-cord plait, another inter-
laced work almost obliterated, and the third
being defaced. Left side - Defaced.
This stone was discovered by Mr T. S.
Muir in 1861, and the circumstances of its
discovery and the state in which it then was,
are narrated in Ecclesiological Notes quoted
below. It was subsequently removed to
Thurso Museum.
See Muir's Eccles. Notes, p. 105 (illus.);
Early Christ. Mon., pt. iii. p. 30 (illus.).
446. Cross (rune-inscribed), Thurso Museum.
- In the museum at Thurso is a cross roughly
hewn out of a slab of Caithness flagstone
bearing on its shaft an inscription in Scandi-
navian runes (fig. 29). It was found when
some old buildings were taken down near the
E. end of St Peter's Church, Thurso, in 1896.
At a depth of some 5' from ordinary level were
found in the course of excavation two cists
containing human skeletons. On the top of
the larger cist, which contained the remains
of an adult buried in a contracted position,
lay the cross slab. Its whole length is 2' 9".
The shaft measures 2' 1 1/2" in length by 6 1/4"
in breadth at the lower end, tapering slightly
to 5 3/4" at the intersection of the arms. The
cross head measures 8" across, the projection of the arms being
less than 2", and their vertical width at the ends 4 3/4". The
summit is partially broken away, so that it only rises 1 1/2" above
[Drawing inserted]
FIG. 29. - Cross (rune-inscribed) found near St Peter's Church, Thurso (No. 446). Scale, 1/8 linear. |
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[Page] 124 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF THURSO.
the arms and shows a breadth of 4 3/4". The thickness of the slab
throughout is 1 1/2".
The inscription, which is somewhat irregularly cut along one side
of the obverse in letters varying from 3" to 4" in height, reads from
the base upwards (the lower part of the shaft containing its com-
mencement is awanting), and has been interpreted
- (GE)RTHI UBIRLAK THITA AFT IKULB FOTHUR SIN
- made overlay this after Ingulf father his
See Antiquaries, xxxi. p. 293 (illus.); Early Christ. Mon., pt. iii.
p. 36 (illus.).
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 21st September 1910.
447. Mound, "Torran Dubh." - About 1 m. SE. of Mains of Brims,
on the E. side of the farm road, and some 150 yards SE. of the
neighbouring farm-steading, is a grassy mound which is probably a
cairn. Its longest axis is NW. and SE. and it measures some
93' x 47'. The elevation of it is about 5' . It is overgrown with
vegetation and has been under cultivation.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. ( "Brough"). Visited, 8th August 1910.
448. Mound, "Rossy Hillock," Murkle. - About 1/4 m. NW. of West
Murkle farm-house, at the corner of a field, is a mound which bears
the name of "Rossy Hillock." It probably covers the ruins of a
broch, but it has been long under cultivation and its dimensions are
now quite indefinite.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. ("Cairn"). Visited, 20th August 1910.
SITES.
449. Bishop'a Castle or Scrabster Castle, Thurso. - On a low pro-
montory rock rising from the shore about 1/2 m. to the NW. of Thurso,
are the fragmentary ruins of the Castle of the Bishops of Caithness.
The ruins of a wall at the edge of the rock and the foundations of
one or two buildings which have surrounded the courtyard are all
that remains. A small triangular-headed window enriched with
dog-tooth ornament, taken from the ruins, is built into an outbuilding
at Scrabster House.
The earliest record of the castle seems to be under date 1328,
when Sir Robert of Peblis' chamberlain claimed in his account the
sum of £3, 2s. 4d. as paid for keeping the castle of Scraboster during
the vacancy of the See. In 1455 William, Bishop of Caithness,
granted to his brother Gilbert Mudy, the keeping of the castle of
Scrabestoun and of the surrounding lands confirmed by James III. in
1478. About the year 1544, during the banishment of the bishop
and the temporary appointment of Alexander Gordon to the bishopric,
the castle was seized by the Earl of Caithness. In 1557 Bishop
Robert, on the narrative of numerous benefits received from John,
Earl of Sutherland, appointed that nobleman and his heirs hereditary
constables of the Castle of Scrabster, "situated among the wild and
uncivilised Scots, and in a wintry region." In 1726 it was described
as being wholly in ruins.
An old roadway cut in the face of the bank between the ruins |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 125
PARISH OF THURSO.
of the Bishop's Castle and the burn at Scrabster House is known as
the Bishop's Walk.
See Origines, ii., pt. ii. pp. 611 and 754 ; Macfarlane's Geog. Coll.
i. p. 172 ; Forbes' Journals, p. 198.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 13th August 1910.
450. Construction, Ushat Head. - At the edge of the bank above
the rocks about 1/2 m. E. of Mains of Brims, there are exposed the
remains of what appears to be an early structure. The plan is
indefinite, but the surface mounds suggest an oblong building with
rounded ends.
O.S.M., CAITH., iv. (unnoted). Visited, 8th August 1910.
451. Fortified Site, West Murkle. - Just opposite the termination
of the farm road which leads past West Murkle farm is a small
promontory across the landward end of which is a wall or rampart
measuring some 8' to 10' in thickness, 8' in height from the landward
side, and 6' to seaward. The end and sides of the promontory are
much eroded and there is no trace of the structure, if any, which
formerly existed in rear of the defence.
O.S.M., CAITH., vi. ("Brough"). Visited, 20th August 1910.
452. Cairn, Hopefield. - Of the cairn at Hopefield indicated on the
the O.S. map there is now hardly a trace, as a road has been cut
through the middle of it.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. Visited, 17th August 1910.
453. Mound, "Cnoc an Taillir." - The O.S. map indicates a small
mound bearing the name of "Cnoc an Taillir," on the N. end of
Sordale Hill, in an angle of the moorland adjoining the cultivated
land, about 1/3 m. NW. of the cairn "Cnoc na Ciste" (No. 442), near
the summit of the hill,
O.S.M., CAITH., xii.
454. Wall (remains), Brims. - About 1 1/4 m E. of Mains of Brims
is a long promontory rock lying parallel with the shore cliffs and
separated from them by a deep and narrow geo. Running along the
edge of the rocks above this geo are the remains of a wall, but on
the promomtory in rear of it there is no sign of any structure visible.
O.S.M., CAITH., v. ( "Brough"). Visited, 8th August 1910.
455. Brough, Oust. - In the stackyard of the steading at Oust are two
small excavations which have probably been the well and cellar of a
broch. The westmost of the two, which appears to have been a
cellar or store, is roughly rectangular, about 5' square, having the
lower part cut out of the solid rock and finished above with a con-
verging roof covered with slabs. The greatest height is 5' 4" above
the present floor level. It is reached by a steep flight of fourteen
steps cut out of the rock, measuring 6" in breadth of tread. The
stairway is 2' wide. The vertical height from the present floor level
to the level of the top step is 8' 6" and to the ground 11' 3". Some
5' distant is the other excavation, entered from the opposite direction.
It is a mere shaft, measuring about 2' square, down one side of which
are seven steps or shelves formed of thin flags built into the wall, |
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[Page] 126 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF THURSO.
directly one above the other, with a clear space between. The shaft
at the bottom curves slightly to the right, and measures 4' x 2'. The
lower portion is entirely cut out of the rock. The depth from the
level of the original building to the lowest exposed floor is 9' 2".
O.S.M., CAITH., xi. ("Broughs"). Visited, 17th August 1910.
The O.S. maps indicate sites as under -:
456. Castle of Haimer, Haimer. -- O.S.M., CAITH., v.
457. Ormelie Castle, Thurso. -- O.S.M., CAITH., v.
458. Bishop's Bridge, near Thurso Castle. -- O.S.M., CAITH., v.
PARISH OF WATTEN.
ECCLESIASTICAL STRUCTURES.
459. Chapel (in ruins), Old Hall of Dunn. - About 1/4 m. S. by W. of
Old Hall farm-house, within a graveyard, are the ruins of an old
church. It measures interiorly 48' x 18', has its entrance door in the
E. end, and two elliptical arched windows in the S. wall. It appears
to be a building of late date. Beneath the W. half of the church is a
burial vault which may belong to an earlier structure.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. Visited, 25th May 1910.
460. Chapel (remains of), The Clow. - At a spot known as The
Clow, where the Southal Burn makes a sharp turn towards the E.
from its northward course at the upper end of the Scouthal wood, are
the fragmentary remains of a chapel. It appears to have consisted of
a chancel and nave, the former measuring interiorly 14' x 10', and the
latter 26' or 27' x 16'. The walls have been some 4' in thickness. A
faced opening through the E. wall of the chancel near the N. side seems
to indicate an entrance, while a depression in the mound covering
the S. wall of the nave near its W. end probably marks the doorway
into that portion of the church. The base of the wall separating the
two areas has been some 4' 6" in thickness. The walls appear to have
been built without mortar. The wall of the nave in places on the
interior is visible for some 3' in height, otherwise it is overgrown
with turf. To the W. of the ruin is an old enclosure and several
foundations of old rectangular buildings around it. It is stated to
have been ruinous in 1726, when it was used as the burial-place
only of strangers and unbaptised children.
See Macfarlane's Geog. Coll., i. p. 180.
O.S.M., CAITH.,xxiii. Visited, 27th May 1910.
DEFENSIVE CONSTRUCTIONS.
461. Broch, Old Hall of Dunn. - Some 200 yards S. of Old
Hall is a grass-covered stony mound, probably covering the ruins of
a broch. A few flat stones are visible on the surface, but there is no
accurate indication either of the extent of the ruin or of its character.
The mound at highest has an elevation of some 4'. The situation of
the mound is on the top of a high bank above a burn, and for a
distance of some 30' there remains a low segmental rampart along |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 127
PARISH OF WATTEN.
the edge of this bank. The diameter across the centre of the mound
from the top of the rampart is 58'.
462. Broch, "Cairn of Dunn," Old Hall of Dunn. - Across a glen
from the last mentioned broch, and some 350 yards SE. of Old Hall,
is another round stony mound, probably a broch. It is situated in a
cultivated field, commanding an extensive prospect, and has been
frquently ploughed over. The surface is strewn with fragments of
slaty stone, but no structure is visible. The diameter of the mound
is about 100', and its elevation is some 3'.
463. Broch, Old Hall of Dunn. - Some 500 yards N. of Old Hall,
on the N. side of the public road near the edge of a cultivated field,
is a large grass-covered mound which probably contains the remains
of a broch. No part of the structure is visible, but a circular
depression on the summit near the N. end may indicate the interior
court. The surface of the field is lowest on the W., and from that
direction the mound has an elevation of about 11'. From the N. the
greatest height is some 8'.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. Visited, 25th May 1910.
464. Broch, Green Hill, Wester Watten. - A grass-covered knoll im-
mediately to the W. of Wester Watten House conceals the remains of
a broch. The only part of the structure visible is the entrance passage
facing the S., which has been partially cleared out. The total length
of passage wall exposed is 31' on the left, and 29' on the right. The
inner end is not exposed, but where last visible the left wall is curv-
ing to the right. At 8' in from the exterior on the left side and
8' 6" on the right, are door checks formed by slabs. No bar holes
appear behind them. The passage outside the checks measures
2' 6" in width, and immediately in rear of them 5'. It thereafter
again contracts, and at 14' from the outside, where the first lintel is
met, it is 2' 8". At 18' 6" from the outside on the right is the entrance
to a guard chamber. The entrance is 2' 6" wide, and the chamber
and passage to it are almost filled with debris. At 4' inwards in
the main passage from the inner side of the entrance to the guard
chamber is another door check, projecting 6" into the passage, but
the corresponding check on the opposite wall is not exposed. The
lintels cover the passage for a distance of 7' 6". The diameter of the
mound along the line of the passage is some 92', and at right angles
to that direction 86' ; its elevation is from 9' to 10'.
O.S.M., CAITH.,xviii. Visited, 25th May 1910.
465. Broch (supposed), Banks of Watten. - On the moor about 3/4 m.
WSW. of Banks of Watten at the W. end of a low ridge is a grassy
mound. The number of flattish stones exposed over its surface suggest
that it covers the ruins of a broch. The outline of the remains apart
from the natural level of the ridge is so indefinite that dimensions
are unobtainable.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. ("Cairn of Achoy"). Visited, 27th May 1910.
466. Broch, "Bail a' Chairn," Acharole. - About 2 m. up the Burn
of Acharole from Watten and near Acharole are the conspicuous
remains of a broch. From the moorland there rises a grassy hillock |
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[Page] 128 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF WATTEN.
(pl. XLII.) on the sides and summit of which much shaley stone has
been exposed. The mound is somewhat oval on plan, with its longest
axis E. and W. At an elevation of some 8' or 9' on the N. and S.
sides, and gradually diminishing to 2' or 3' at the E. and W. ends, is
a terrace, or glacis, some 12' to 14' in width. Along the outer edge
of this terrace on the N. are visible the remains of a wall or stony
rampart now some 8' to 10' broad at base. The upper portion of the
hillock, which contains the ruins of the broch, measures in diameter
from E. to W. about 108' and from N. to S. about 78'. Its elevation
from the level of the terrace at the E. and W. ends is some 14', and
from the N. and S. about 9' 6". The lower part of the hillock as
well as the upper is to some extent artificial.
[Plan inserted.]
FIG. 30. - Broch, "Bail a' Chairn," Acharole (No. 466) ; Ground-plan.
This broch was almost completely excavated in 1904 by the
late Sir Francis Tress Barry. A plan made during the course of
the excavation is here reproduced. The entrance to the broch
was on the E. side. Outside the main building it passed through
what appeared to be an outer casing wall for a distance of some 22',
and was provided with a door at 5', and probably also with another
at 14', from the outside. On the right-hand side, some 5' in from
the outer door, was a guard chamber. The width of this portion of
the entrance was at its outer end 2', and where it joined the main
wall about 4'. The passage through the main wall was some 14' in
length and some 3' in width at its commencement. At [Scored out] 11' inwards
from the outer face was a rebate for a door, beyond which the passage
expanded to about 4' in width. The covering slabs remained in situ
over the greater part of the main passage, which measured some
5' 6" in height. The interior diameter of the broch was about [Scored out] 30'.
At 25', measured direct, from the inner end of the entrance passage |
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Ancient and Historic Monuments - Caithness.
[Photograph inserted]
PLATE XLII. - Broch, "Bail a' Chairn," Acharole (No. 466).
To face p. 128. |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 129
PARISH OF WATTEN.
on the left, was an entrance 2' above floor level, measuring some
2' in width, 4' 6" in height, and 5' in length, leading to the stair,
which rose to the right and was visible for a distance of some 25',
with a width of about 3'. At the foot of the stair was a long
chamber some 33' in length, finished with a rounded end. The
entrance to the stair and part of the guard chamber still retained their
roofs of flagstones. Some 5' to the E. of the entrance to the stair was
a small built aperture about 1 1/2' wide by 4' in height, placed high in
the wall, giving light to the long chamber within. Between it and
the stair entrance was a small recess or ambry, while another recess
of larger dimensions was situated some 8' above the ground, about 9'
to the left of the main entrance. Measured direct, some 15' from the
right of the inner end of the entrance was a passage some 2' wide and
5' long leading to another stair, also rising to the right. In the
interior court to the left of the entrance was a rectangular setting of
flags erected against the wall, and from the floor other three flags
projected respectively on either side and across the front of the door-
way, the latter some 3' back from it. The greatest height of wall
exposed in the interior was 10'. The broch was filled in by order
of the proprietor before its excavation was completed.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxiii. Visited, 27th May 1910.
467. Broch, "Carn a' Chladda," Scouthal. - On the W. side of the
road to Acharole, from Watten, about 1/2 m. beyond Scouthal, is a
grassy hillock. The character of the stones disclosed about its surface
points to its being a broch. It measures some 70' in diameter and
some 10' in elevation.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxiii. Visited, 27th May 1910.
468. Broch, Watten. - In a grass park on the edge of a bank above
the Strath Burn and about 1/4 m S. by W. of Watten village , are the
remains of a broch beneath a grass-covered knoll. The base of the
building is exposed at one or two places showing that the diameter
over all was 64'. On the SE. for a distance of about 8' a small portion
of wall is exposed to a height of some 2', evidently the inner wall
face of a chamber. The mound is about 8' high.
On the S. several very large boulders in line project a foot or
two above the turf at a distance of 22' from the base of the broch,
indicating the remains of an outer wall.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. ("Mound"). Visited, 27th May 1910.
469. Broch, Cogle, or Coghill. - The remains of this broch are
situated in the stackyard to the E. of Coghill farm-house, and are
overgrown with vegetation. The ruin was excavated by Dr Anstruther
Davidson in 1905, and a number of relics were found in it. These
consist of bones, shells, deer-horn, remains of three vessels of un-
ornamented pottery, numerous stone pounders, rubbing stones, thin
discs of shale, and a fine bone pin, etc. Querns are represented by
remains of the saddle variety only. The relics are preserved at the
school-house at Gersa and in the farm-house.
A plan made at the time of the excavation by Mr John Nicolson,
Nybster, and here reproduced (fig. 31), shows the following
-- 9 |
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[Page] 130 HISTORICAL MONUMENTS (SCOTLAND) COMMISSION.
PARISH OF WATTEN.
particulars : - The broch was entered from the W. by a passage
going direct through the wall some 17' in length. For 13' inwards
it maintained a uniform width of about 2' 6". At that point a rebate
formed checks for a door and the passage expanded to 4', contracting
again slightly at it inner extremity. Behind the door check on the
left of the passage was found in situ a hollowed stone in which the
pivot of the door had worked. The interior court measured some
29' in diameter. On the left, 19' 6" distant, measured direct from
the inner end of the entrance passage, an opening in the wall some
3' wide led to the staircase at 6' in from the inner face of the wall.
The stair, as usual, rose to the right. At the foot of it was a chamber
[Plan inserted]
FIG 31. - Broch, Coghill ( Cogle) (No. 469) ; Ground-plan.
[Margin note] D37271
some 16' 6" in length, 4' wide at its commencement, expanding
inwards to a width of 7'. Across the interior of the broch was built
at about 5' out from the inner end of the entrance passage, a semi-
circular wall having its convex face towards the entrance, This wall
was some 2' 6" in thickness and stood to a height of 3'. At either
end it projected outward at right angles for a distance of some 4'.
Against it at the S. end within the semicircle was a hearth, marked
off by stones, some 3' square. On either side of the main entrance
in the interior, a single flagstone some 6" in height projected from
the wall, and some 7' to the left was another pair of stones, 2' high,
similarly placed and 3' apart. To the outside of the main entrance
to the broch there were indications of an outer casing wall through
which the passage led.
O.S.M., CAITH., xix. (unnoted). Visited, 30th May 1910.
470. Broch, Scottag. - Close to the road to the SE. of Scottag
farm-house is a low mound overgrown with grass and surmounted
with a modern cairn. Its elevation of some 5' above the level of |
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INVENTORY OF MONUMENTS, ETC., IN COUNTY OF CAITHNESS. [Page] 131
PARISH OF WATTEN.
the field appears to have been considerably reduced by the
removal of stones. The flat stones exposed about its surface show
it to be the remains of a broch. The O.S. map records that a stone
cist containing human remains and bronze ornaments was found
here in 1870.
O.S.M., CAITH., xix. ("Cairn"). Visited, 30th May 1910.
471. Broch, "Grey Cairn," Lynegar. - In a grass field about 1/4 m.
SSE. of Lynegar House, and some 100 yards N. of Loch Watten, is
a grassy mound which has been under cultivation. The diameter
of the mound is some 79', and its greatest elevation about 5'. From
the character of the stones exposed there is no doubt that this is a
broch.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. ("Mound"). Visited, 1st June 1910.
472. Broch, Gearsay. - Situated in an arable field some 250 yards
E. of Gersay farm, is a grass-covered mound surmounted by a small
modern cairn of flat stones. There are no stones visible on the
surface to indicate the character of the mound, but from those of
which the cairn is built it is presumably a broch. The extent is
quite indefinite : the greatest elevation some 6'. From the E. side -
a considerable amount of the mound has been removed.
O.S.M., CAITH., xix. ("Gearsay Cairn"). Visited, 1st June 1910.
473. Broch, Achingale. - On the top of the right bank of the
Strath Burn, just below the farm of Achingale, are the remains of
a mound, which was opened in 1841 and found to contain the ruins
of a broch. Only a small segment now exists : the rest has been
removed. The O.S. map notes the finding of a deer-horn comb and a
stone cist containing human remains.
See Antiquaries, ix. p. 183.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. Visited, 4th June 1910.
474. Broch, Spital. - To the ENE. of Spital quarries, and some 250
yards E. of Spital farm, in the centre of an arable field, is a grassy
mound evidently covering the ruins of a broch. It measures some
80' in diameter, and some 6' to 7' in elevation. The top shows a
depression about 34' in diameter and 4' to 5' in depth (O.S.
"Mound").
475. Broch, Knockglass. - About 150 yards to the ENE. of Knock-
glass farm-house, rising from an arable field, is a conical grass-covered
mound containing the ruins of a broch. It measures in diameter
some 120' from E. to W. and some 95' rom N. to S., and in elevation
some 12' to 13'. It has been broken into for a short distance on the
NE. (O.S. "Mound".)
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. Visited, 16th June 1910.
HUT CIRCLES.
476. Hut Circles, Flex Hill. - At the N. end of Flex Hill, some 3/4 m.
S. of Strath farm-house, close to the wire fence which runs westward
across the moor from the Camster Road, is a group of hut circles.
The furthest up the slope of the hill, about 100 yards distant from |
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PARISH OF WATTEN.
the road, is circular, measuring some 20' in diameter interiorly. The
bank is now quite low, and its breadth too indefinite for measurement.
The floor has been dug out so that its level is 3' below that of te
natural level on the upper side and 1½' to 2' on the lower. The
position of the entrance is not evident.
The second circle, which is situated some 80' W. of the first, has
an interior diameter of from 18' to 20' , and an entrance seemingly
from teh SW. The bank appears to be some 8' to 10' in thickness,
but is not accurately measurable. The interior has also been dug
out, but not so deeply as in the sircle last described.
Some 20' to teh NW. of the second lies a thrid circle. the
interior diameter is about 21', and the entrance from the SW. The
bank measures in thickness about 11', and around the lower side it
is still a foot or two in height. The interior has also been dug out,
and its level is from 2' 6" to 3' below that of the hill slope on the
upper side.
Some 30 yards N. of the last is yet another, which has been
partially destroyed by the formation of a sheep drain across the
lower end of it. The diameter of the interior is some 9' across and
11' towards the entrance, which jas been from the SW. The
entrance appears to ahev been very wide. The section exposed by
the cutting of the drain shows that the bank is formed of earth or
peat and small stones.
SOme yards to teh N. of the hut circles adjacent to the wire
fence, and some 50 yards NNE. of the remains of a large cairn
(No. 489), is another hhut circle. The bank is entirely overgrown
and much spread, and measures some 12 ' in breadth at base. The
entrance has been from WSW., now of indefinite width, and the
interior diameter some 24'.
O.S.M., CAITH., xxiv. ("Cairns"). Visited, 30th June 1910.
SEPULCHRAL CONSTRUCTIONS.
477. "Toddy Hillock", Aukengill Bridge. - In a field some 300
yards SE. of Auchengill Bridge is a low oval cairn lying with its
longest axis E/ and W. and measuring some 22' X 17'. Its greatest
elevation is only 1½'. Being largely overgrown with turf little is
visible, and it is probably only a fragment of the original cosntruc-
tion . It bears the name of "Toddy Hillock." ½
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. Visited, 1st June 1910.
478. Chambered Cairn, "Oslie Cairn," Lynegar. - Some 350 yards
S. by W. of lynegar House , and about 100 yards N. of the shoe
of Loch Watten, is a grass-covered hillock which seems to be a
chambered cairn. On the summit, just protruding through the soil
is the edge of a large slab lying NNW and SSE., measuring about
6'5" in lengthand 9" or 10" in thickness, while parallel to its ENE.
face at either enedand 2' to 3' distant are two shorter slabs about 1' 9" in length. The outline of the mound is very indefinite, but the
diameter appears to be from 50' to 60'.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. {"Brough"). Visited, 1st June 1910.
479. Cairn (supposed), Lybster.- In a grass park on the N. side
of the road to Wick, and some 500 yards ENE. of Lynegar House , is |
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a grass-covered mound with a diameter of 93' from N. to S. and 99'
from E. to W., with an elevation of from 5' to 6'. There are no
definite indications on teh surface of the character of the con-
struction, but such stones as are visible are suggestive rather of
a cairn than a broch.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. ("Mound"). Visited, 1 June 1910.
480.
O.S.M., CAITH., xviii. Visited, 27th May 1910. |
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